The Pearl of India

Front matter

_Bp JHaturin Jit. Lallan. THE PEARL OF INDIA. Crown 8vo, $1.50. THE STORY OF MALTA. Crown 8vo, $1.50. EQUATORIAL AMERICA. Descriptive of a Visit to St. Thomas, Martinique, Barbadoes, and the Principal Capitals of South America. Crown 8vo, $1.50. AZTEC LAND. Crown 8vo, $1.50. THE NEW ELDORADO. A Summer Journey to Alaska. Crown 8vo, $ 1.50. ALASKA. The New Eldorado. A Summer Journey to Alaska. Taurisfs Edition, with 4 maps. i6mo, $1.00. DUE WEST; or, Round the World in Ten Months. Crown 8vo, $1.50. DUE SOUTH ; or, Cuba Past and Present. Crown 8vo, $1.50. UNDER THE SOUTHERN CROSS; or, Travels in Australasia. Crown 8vo, $1.50. DUE NORTH; or, Glimpses of Scandinavia and Russia. Crown 8vo, $1.50. GENIUS IN SUNSHINE AND SHADOW. Crown 8vo,$ 1.50. EDGE-TOOLS OF SPEECH. Selected and edited by Mr. Ballou. 8vo, $3-50.

A TREASURY OF THOUGHT. An Encyclopædia of Quotations. 8vo, full gilt, $3.50. PEARLS OF THOUGHT. i6mo, full gilt, $1.25. NOTABLE THOUGHTS ABOUT WOMEN. Crown 8vo, S1.50. HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & COMPANY, Boston and New York. THE PEARL OF INDIA BY MATURIN M. BALLOU From India and the Golden Chersonese, And utmost Indian Isle Taprobanes. Milton BOSTON AND NEW YORK HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY Œ6e Ifiitapi&e J.tttftf, Cambribue 1S94 Copyriglit, 1894, B* MATURIN M. BALLOO. All rights reserved. The SrvertHe Pms, Cambridge, Sfaa., V. S. A. Electrotypod and Printed by H. O. Houglitoa and Company. .

Preface

. That many readers evince a growing satisfaction in contemplating foreign lands through the eyes of experienced travelers, the favor shown to previous books by the author of these pages abundantly tes tifies. Mutual profit is therefore the outcome of such a work ; both the author and reader are gratified. It is a pleasure to depict scenes which have afforded so much gratification to the writer, for enjoyment is redoubled by being shared, — " joy was born a twin." The undersigned has often been asked both personady and by letter, "Of ad the places you have seen and written about, wliich do you consider of the most interest, and which do you recommend me to visit?" This is a very dif ficult question to answer, because individual tastes differ so widely. It is safe to say no point presents more varied attractions to the observant traveler, more thoroughly and picturesquely exhib its equatorial life, or addresses itself more directly to the delicate appreciation of the artist, botanist,

PREFACE.

. antiquarian, general scientist, and sportsman, than does Ceylon, gem of the Orient. There are few attractive places in the East which are so accessible, or which may be said to offer more reasonable assurance of safety and good health to the stranger, than this fabled isle of Arabian story. The climate is equable and most deligfitful; though the temperature is exceptionally high, it is, in fact, perpetual summer, varied only by the rains of the monsoon months of May and June, October and November. The tropical heat near the coast is trying to northern visitors, but one can always find a refuge, within a day's journey, up in the hills of the central province, where it is so cool at most seasons of the year as to render a fire necessary after sunset. In the matter of expense, this route is as economical as the average of land and sea travel in any direction.

The cost of living in Ceylon is quite as moderate as in Southern Europe, and now that the island is so generady traversed by railways and excedent govern ment roads, there is very little hardship to be encoun tered in visiting its remotest districts. M. M. B. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Introductory. — Coming from the Eastward. — Interesting Ocean Phenomena. — Denizens of the Sea. — Bird Travelers. — Delusive Mirage. — A Thrilling Adventure. — Prompt Seamanship. — A Struggle for Life. — Dust of the Sea. — A Dangerous Wreck. — Night Watches. — Sighting the Island of Ceylon. — Adam's Peak, among the Clouds. — A Beautiful Shore. — Steamers and Sailing Ships. — Curious Native Boats. — Singhalese Pedlers. — A Catamaran. — Tempting of Providence. — An Author's Position 1

Chapter II

A Classic Island. — Topographical Position. — Maldive Islands. — Lands rising out of the Sea. — Size of Ceylon. — Latitude and Longitude. — A Link of a Powerful Chain. — Important British Station. — " Mountain of the Holy Foot. ' ' — Remarkable Mountain View. — Queer Speculations. — Insect Life in the Island. — Acknowledged Gem of the Orient. — Wild Elephants. — In Olden Times. — Far-Reaching Historic Connections. — Arboreal and Floral Beauties. — Perennial Vegetation. — The Feathered Tribe 19

Chapter III

The Wearisome Tropics. — Waterspouts. — Climatic Conditions. — Length of Days. — A Land Rich in Prehistoric Monuments. — History and Fable. — Last King of Ceylon. — Ancient Ruins. — Aged Cave-Temples. — Gigantic Stone Statue of Buddha. — French Vandals — A Native Chronicle. — Once the Seat of a Great Empire. — System of Irrigation. — Mysterious Disappearance of a Nation. — Ruins of a Vast City. — Departed Glory. — The Brazen Palace. — Asiatic Extravagance. — Ruined Monument CONTENTS. VI

Chapter IV

Oriental Dagobas. — Ancient City of Pollonarua. — Laid out like our Modern Capitals. — Unexplored Ruins. — Elaborate Stone Carvings. — Colossal Stone Figure. — The "Buried Cities." — The Singhalese not a Progressive People. — Modern History of Ceylon. — Captured by the English. — The "Resplendent Island." — Commercial Prosperity. — Increasing Foreign Population. — Under English Rule. — Native Soldiers. — Christian Sects and Churches. — Roman Catholic Church. — Expulsion of the Jesuits 71

Chapter V

Food of the People. — Rice Cultivation. — Vast Artificial Lakes. — The Stone Tanks of Aden. — Parched Australia. — Coffee Culture. — Severe Reverses among Planters. — Tea Culture. — Cinchona Plantations. — Heavy Exportation of Tea. — Cacao Culture. — A Coffee Plantation described. — Domesticated Snakes. — The Cinnamon-Tree. — Cinnamon Gardens a Disappointment. — Picturesque Dwellings. — Forest Lands. — The Ceylon Jungle. — Native Cabinet Woods. — Night in a Tropical Forest. — Rhododendrons ....... 89

Chapter VI

Arboreal King of the Forest. — Tbe Palm Family. — Over-Generous Nature and her Liberal Provisions. — Product of the Cocoanut-Tree. — The Wide-Spreading Banian. — Excellent Public Roads. — Aquatic Birds and Plants. — Native Fruit Trees. — The Mangosteen. — Spice-Bearing Trees. — Treatment of Women. — Singhalese Rural Life. — Physical Character of Tamil Men. — Tree Climbing. — Native Children. — Numerical Relation of the Sexes. — Caste as respected in Ceylon. — Tattooing tbe Human Body ..... 112

Chapter VII

Experiences between Colombo and Point de Galle. — Dangers of Encountering Reptiles. — Marvelous Ant Houses. — Insect Architects. — Curious Bird's Nests. — Flamingoes at Rest. — Variety of the Crane Family. — Wild Pea-Fowls. — Buddha's Prohibition. — Peculiar Wood-Notes. — Mingling of Fruit and Timber Trees. — Fatal Parasitic Vines. — Stillness of the Forest. — Superstitions of the Natives. — Snake Bites. —Railway Facilities \%\ CONTENTS. VII

Chapter VIII

Colombo, Capital of Ceylon. — Harbor Facilities. — The Breakwater. — Exposed to Epidemics. — Experiences on Landing. — Hump-Backed Cattle. — Grand Oriental Hotel. — Singhalese Waiters. — Galle Face Hotel. — An Unusual Scene. — Number of Inhabitants. — Black Town the Native Quarters. — Domestic Scenes. — Monkeys. — Evil Odors. — Humble Homes. — The Banana-Tree. — Native Temples and Priestly Customs. — Vegetables and Fruits. — Woman's Instinct. — Street Scenes in the Pettah. — Fish Market 144

Chapter IX

The English Part of Colombo. — Army Reserves. — Ceylon an Independent Colony. — "A Paternal Despotism." — Educational Facilities. — Buddhism versus Christianity. — Public Buildings. — The Museum. — Domestic Dwellings. — Suburb of Colpetty. — The Lake of Colombo. — A Popular Driveway. — A Sunset Scene. — Excursion to the Kalani Temple. — The Jinrikisha. — Current Diseases. — Native Jugglers. — Hypnotism. — Houdin, the French Magician, astonishes the Natives. — The Thieving Crows 166

Chapter X

Birds on the Rampage. — Familiar Nuisances. — Silver-Spoon Thieves. — Doctrine of Metempsychosis. — Various Nationalities forming the Population. — Common Languages. — Tamils are the Wage-Earners. — The Singhalese Proper are Agriculturists. — Queer Belief in Demons. — Propitiation ! — The Veddahs. — Attacking Wild Elephants. — Serpent Worship. — Polyandry. — Native Singhalese Women. — Dress of Both Sexes. — Streets of Colombo on a Gala Day. — An English Four-in-Hand. — Mount Lavonia 186

Chapter XI

The Ancient Capital of Kandy. — An Artificial Lake. — The Great River of Ceylon. — Site of the Capital of the Central Province. — On the Way from Colombo to Kandy. — The Tiny Musk-Deer. — The Wild Boar. — Native Cabins. — From the Railway Car Windows. — The Lotus. — Destructive White Ants and their Enemies. — Wild Animals. — The Mother of Twins. — A Little Waif. — A Zigzag Railway. — An Expensive Road to build. — " Sensation Rock " with an Evil History. — Grand Alpine Scenery ....... COXTEXTS. viii

Chapter XII

Historical Kandy. — Importance of Good Roads. — Native Population. — Temple of Buddha's Tooth. — The Old Palace.— Governor's House. — Great Resort of Pilgrims. — Interior of the Temple. — The Humbug of Relics. — Priests of the Yellow Robe.— A Sacred Bo-Tree. — Diabolical Services in the Ancient Temple. — Regular Heathen Powwow. — Singhalese Music. — Emulating Midnight Tomcats. — Chronic Beggary. — The Old Parisian Woman with Wooden Legs. — A Buddhist Rock-Temple 225

Chapter XIII

Ceylon the Mecca of Buddhism. — The Drives about Kandy. — Fruit of the Cashew. — Domestic Prison of Arabi Pasha. — "Egypt for the Egyptians." — Hillside Bungalows. — Kandy Hotels at a Discount. — The Famous Botanical Garden of Ceylon. — India-Rubber-Trees, Bamboos, and Flying Foxes. — Dangerous Reptiles in the Garden. — The Boa Constrictor. — Success of Peruvian-Bark Raising. — Vicious Land Leeches. — The Burrowing and Tormenting Tick. — Where Sugar comes from in Ceylon .......... 241

Chapter XIV

Fifty Miles into Central Ceylon. — Gorgeous Scenic Effects. — Gampola. — The Singhalese Saratoga. — A Grand Waterfall. — Haunts of the Wild Elephants. — Something about these Huge Beasts. — European Hunters restricted. — An Indian Experience. — Elephants as Farm Laborers in Place of Oxen. — Tame Elephants as Decoys. — Elephant Taming. — Highest Mountain on the Island. — Pilgrims who ascend Adam's Peak. — Nuera-Ellia as a Sanitarium. — A Hill Garden . . . 258

Chapter XV

Port of Trincomalee. — A Remarkable Harbor. — How to get there. — Nelson's Eulogium. — Curious and Beautiful Shells. — Pearl Oysters. — Process of Pearl Fishing. — What are Pearls and which are most valued ? — Profit to Government. — A Remarkable Pearl. — Tippo Sahib and Cleopatra. — The Singhalese not Sailors. — Ancient Ruins. — Hot Springs near Trincomalee. — " Temple of a Thousand Columns. " — Valuable Supply of Ship Timber. — Salt Manufactures. — Tenacity of Life in the Shark CONTENTS. IX

Chapter XVI

Point de Galle. — An Ancient Port, now mostly deserted. — Dangerous Harbor. — Environs of the City a Tropical Garden. — Paradise of Ferns and Orchids. — Neptune's Gardens. — Tides of the Ocean. — Severe Penalties. — Floating Islands of Seaweed. — Fable, like History, repeats itself. — Chewing the Betelnut. — An Asiatic Habit. — All Nations seek Some Stimulant. — Soil near Galle. — Cinnamon Stones. — Diamonds. — Workers in Tortoise-Shell. — Millions of Fruitful Palms. — Sanitary Conditions of Galle 292

Chapter XVII

Dondra Head. — " The City of the Gods." — A Vast Temple. — A Statue of Solid Gold. — A Famous Rock-Temple. — Buddhist Monastery. — Caltura and its Distilleries. — Edible Bird's Nests. — Basket-Making. — The Kaluganga. — Cinnamon Gardens. — "The City of Gems." — A Magnificent Ruby. — The True Cat's-Eye. — Vast Riches hidden in the Mountains. — Plumbago Mining. — Iron Ore. — Kaolin. — Gem Cutting. — Native Swindlers. — Demoralizing Effect of Gem Digging 307 CHAPTER XVIH. Circumnavigating the Island. — Batticaloa, Capital of the Eastern Province. — Rice Culture. — Fish Shooting. — Point Pedro. — Jaffna. — Northern Province. — Oriental Bazaars. — Milk ignored. — The Clear Sea and White, Sandy Bottom. — American Missionaries. — A Medical Bureau. — Self -Respect a Lost Virtue. — Snake-Temples. — Ramisseram. — Adam's Bridge. — A Huge Hindu Temple. — Island of Manaar. — Aripo. — The Port of Negombo. — Tamil Coolies. — Homeward Bound. — A Farewell View

Chapter I

Introductory. — Coming from the Eastward. — Interesting Ocean Phenomena. — Denizens of the Sea. — Bird Travelers. — Delusive Mirage. — A Thrilling Adventure. — Prompt Seamanship. — A Struggle for Life. — Dust of the Sea. — A Dangerous Wreck. — Night Watches. — Sighting the Island of Ceylon. — Adam's Peak, among the Clouds. — A Beautiful Shore. — Steamers and Sailing Ships. — Curious Native Boats. — Singhalese Pedlers. — A Catamaran. — Tempting of Providence. — An Author's Position. After a pleasant sojourn in China and Japan, with Ceylon as his objective point, the author came westward by way of the Malacca Straits, crossing the Indian Ocean on a fine of about the eighth degree of north latitude. It is a lonely expanse of water, in traversing which plenty of time was found for medi tation.

The equatorial rains, though brief, were at times so profuse during the voyage as to suggest the possibdity of a second universal flood, and also the advantage which might accrue from being web-footed ; but the air was mostly soft and balmy, the nights were gloriously serene and bright. The transparency of the atmosphere magnified to dazzling proportions the constedations which looked down so serenely upon us, whde the moon seemed to have taken a position vastly nearer to the earth than is its wont at the north. The phosphorescent waves tossed glowing gems, like fire-opals, about the ship's hud, whde set ting our long wake ablaze with flashing light, and producing a Milky Way as luminous as that above in the blue ether. Ad phosphorescent matter requires friction to infuse it with light, and so the thoroughly impregnated waters were churned into liquid fire by our vigorous and swift-revolving pro peller.

What millions upon millions of animalcules, and these again multiplied, must contribute to pro duce this aquatic illumination. During the day, large turtles, schools of dolphins, flying-fish, occasional water snakes, together with whole shoals of jedy-fish, were encountered on the widespread tropical sea. At times, myriads of the fairy-like nautdus floated past in gossamer frames, whde in savage contrast, voracious man-eating sharks fodowed the ship close upon either quarter, in eager watchfulness for human prey. How terribly significant is the upright dorsal fin of this creature, seen just above the surface of the water, indicating the hideous, slate-colored body which glides swiftly and stealthily below ! Hovering over and about the tall masts upon untiring pinions, a score of white-winged, graceful marine birds persistently kept us company day after day.

They joined the ship off the coast of Sumatra as we left the entrance to the Malacca Straits, intro ducing themselves at first with noisy vehemence and BIRD TRAVELERS. 3 piercing cries, as if to assert their presence and pur pose, a proceedhig which was not again repeated. What became of these handsome feathered creatures at night we never knew, and it was found that the oldest seaman was equally ignorant. If they slept upon the waves, they must have overtaken us with arrowy swiftness at the break of day. They were undoubtedly able to do this, as they outstripped us in speed at any moment when they chose to do so, sad ing through the air far ahead and ad around the rapid, steady-going ship. However early one came on deck, they were sure to be in sight, glancing hither and thither upon the invisible air currents without any apparent exertion.

It was the very poetry of motion. We came finady to look upon these tireless fedow travelers with no smad degree of interest, and should ready have regretted their absence. It is always a pleasing diversion to watch them, to count and see that their full number is stid present, and to delight in their free and graceful movements. During the period of their presumed nightly rest upon the heaving bosom of the sea, our vessel must necessardy pass over a distance of many leagues, far, far beyond the power of human sight. How marvelous, therefore, must be the instinct which guides them unerringly to resume our company with the earliest rays of the morning hght. When, in the arid desert, the exhausted camel sinks at last in its tracks to die, and is finally left by the rest of the caravan, no other object is visible in the widespread expanse, even down to the very verge of the horizon.

Scarcely is the poor creature unloaded, however, and left to perish upon the sand, before there wid appear in the far-away sky a cloud of vultures, at first mere specks in the blue atmosphere, swooping with lightning speed towards the dying animal, whose bones they immediately strip with terrific voraciousness. One who has witnessed this scene can never forget it. The vultures strain and tear at the carcass, swallowing great pieces of hide and flesh, untd at last, when they are completely gorged, they can only rise a few feet from the earth, to sink again exhausted upon their feet. Hours must transpire before they can again soar any distance upon the wing, after their glutton ous repast. The sea in this region of the Indian Ocean teems with animal life, the curiously shaped finny tribe often exhibiting colors as gay and vivid as those of the birds and flowers in the low latitudes.

Some strange and puzzling phenomena of nature were occasionady witnessed. Now and again the whole ship's company were deluded by a mirage ; we seemed to be approaching land, though it was never reached, and at the moment when we should fairly make out its bearings, it faded slowly into thin air. So realistic were these appearances, often re peated, that some passengers were curious enough to considt the captain's sading-charts to see if certain NIGHT AT SEA. 5 islands or shoals were not laid down in or near the course we were steering. The nights were the most enjoyable, so full of a delicious sense of repose, the stillness broken only by the great heart-beats of the huge engine which formed our motive power. The soft and refidgent atmosphere invited one to linger on deck rather than to seek the close confinement of a stateroom below, and thus many hours were passed in a half-dreaming, half-conscious condition, whde reviewing the varied experiences of the past few months of travel.

Tableaux of Japanese life and scenery, bewitchingly attractive and enjoyable adven tures in tea-houses, gay excursions in jinrikishas, together with unique temples and huge statues of Shinto deities, passed in endless procession before the mind's eye. The oddities and the local color in Shanghai, Hongkong, and Canton ; the soothing motion of palanquins ; the sloping-eyed, yedow com plexioned and pig-taded people of China ; a devas tating cyclone encountered in the Yedow Sea, and the wondrous sunset which fodowed it ; the gyrating waterspout which was seen off the Gulf of Siam, a not infrequent experience where so many active currents of whid and water meet ; the many living pictures wed-remembered of the islands of the Malay Archipelago engraven upon the brain at Singapore, Borneo, Sumatra, Penang, and Java, the latter con taining more active and extinct volcanoes than any other known region, — all these seemed very real, though only silently rehearsed in dreamland.

Soon after leaving the straits and gaining the broad ocean, a brief but heavy gale of wind was en countered, wliich created for some hours a most bois terous sea. On the morning after the storm, a fore mast hand was sent over the starboard bow to make fast some gearing which had become loosened by the gale. Almost immediately afterward, the cry of " Man overboard ! " rang fore and aft the ship. A wide-awake passenger who happened to be standing near the taffrail instantly took a knife from his pocket, and cutting loose a hfe-buoy which was fas tened to the starboard quarter ratline, promptly threw it towards the man in the water as he floated away from the ship. The sailor saw it, and being a good swimmer struck out for and reached it. A moment later, it was seen that he had succeeded in thrusting his head and arms through the opening of the sus taining buoy.

In the mean time, the captain at the sound of the ominous cry sprang up the ladder lead ing to the bridge, and took personal charge of the ship, sending the first officer, whose watch it hap pened to be, to superintend the lowering of a quarter boat to rescue the unfortunate seaman if possible. There was no flurry, no confusion among tfie crew. Not a word was spoken except by the officers. Tfie silence of discipline was supreme. A sailor was promptly ordered into the shrouds to keep run of the man, who was soon out of sight from the deck, so rough was the intervening water. The quarter-boat PROMPT SEAMANSHIP. 7 was lowered from the davits, and was afloat in less than three minutes after the order was issued, -with six stout seamen at the oars and the first officer in tfie stern. Wfiat a mere cockle-shed it appeared in that angry sea, one moment low down in the trough, and the next upon the summit of the waves towering above the deck of the ship.

Nothing of less importance than the saving of a human life would have warranted the launching of a boat in such a wild con dition of the waves. The sailor who had been sent into the shrouds was ordered to point constantly toward the man in the water, so that those in the boat might know in what direction to steer. " Give way, men, give way with a wid ! " said the officer, and the oars bent to the muscular power of the crew. The ship had been under a twelve-knot headway when the accident happened, and the man, supported by the buoy, was already a mde or more to leeward. Then occurred a singular and inopportune circum stance, which was for a moment the cause of dangerous delay. The sturdy seaman who pulled the stroke oar of the boat just launched was seen to falter, cease rowing, and suddenly to bend forward, as though he were paralyzed.

The excitement of the moment completely unmanned him. His heart for an instant ceased to beat. The first officer compre hended the situation instantly. Seamen are trained to promptness; so off came his coat, the tiller was thrust into the half-fainting sador's hand, accompanied by a brief command, —he could steer if he could not pull, — and the ofiicer bent his own stout arms and body to the stroke oar. There was no time for words, — the stake was a human life. One or two of the anxious passengers whispered the word " Shark ! " Where were those tiger-fish at this critical moment ? The boat made slow but steady headway towards the distant seaman, whde he at the tiller steered as was indicated by the man stationed high up in the ship's shrouds. Upon reaching the bridge and relieving tfie officer on duty, the captain, while issuing his other orders, had coody rung down to the engine-room, — " Stand by !

Slow down ! Stop her ! Back her ! " with a brief interval between each signal. Then, stepping to the starboard end of the bridge, he waved his handkerchief to the fast disappearing seaman to let him know that his commander was at his post and would do his best to save him. The big hull, in response to her reversed propeder, after a few mo ments of tremulous indecision, began to move stern foremost. Several passengers ascended the rigging to keep the boat in view, for it too was lost to sight from the deck. It struggled stoutly with the angry sea, wliich seemed loath to give up its victim. Those in the shrouds gazed eagerly, and almost held their breath. The steamer drew very slowly nearer to the man in the water, as wed as to the boat. By and by, after a period of terrible suspense, the man in the THE RESCUE. 9 water was seen to be seized by his messmates and drawn into the boat, wliich was then turned toward the ship.

It was a long and severe struggle still, to contend successfully with the high sea which was run ning, but the boat was finally brought on the lee side of the vessel, the stout ropes were made fast to the ring-bolts in its stem and stern, and with ad on board it was quickly run up to the davits. The rescued man and his brave deliverers were received on board with three hearty cheers, and the big ship, once more under a full head of steam, took her course westward. Prompt action, cool courage, and good seamanship saved the life of the imperded sador. There was more than one grateful heart on board which was relieved by a sdent prayer of thanksgiving. Some of our lady passengers complained of being seriously annoyed by sea-dust, which at first thought seems ridiculous. Dust at sea ! But there is never theless an impalpable codection of salt matter or dry spray, so to speak, which rises at times from the ocean, especially in these latitudes, causing the eyes to smart, and giving a distinct saline flavor to the lips, whde it is so penetrating as to thoroughly im pregnate one's clothing.

When the sun shines, this deposit seems to be less abundant, but like the dew, it affects those most who are exposed to the night air. The " dust " of the sea is very real, as any experienced sador will testify. Our voyage was not without several eventfid occurrences. On the second day after the storm, the lookout reported some object ahead lying almost di rectly in our course. At first it looked like a huge whale, the dark body wed out of water, or like the top of a sunken rock ; but as we rapidly approached, it was made out to be the hud of a large ship, keel uppermost. It might have proved to be a fatal en counter, had we rim upon it in the night. A sharp lookout, together with the sun shining upon the ob ject, revealed it, but being so near the color of the sea and having no top-hamper in sight, it could not have been discovered at any considerable distance at night.

Probably half-sunken vessels* have been ere this the cause of other and equady fatal wrecks. The size and character of the one we had encountered could only be surmised. The name, even, could not be made out. It appeared to be a sailing craft of eighteen hundred or two thousand tons, wluch had " turned turtle," as sailors term it, perhaps in the storm which we had so lately encountered. The air retained in the hud when it capsized evidently served to keep it afloat. Our steamer was stopped within a safe distance, and a boat was lowered and sent in charge of an officer to examine the hull, with orders to cut a hole in the bottom. This would naturady cause the very dangerous obstruction to sink. It was slow work to cut an opening in the stout bottom with an axe, but when it was finally accomplished and an aperture two feet square was made, the downward A DANGEROUS WRECK. pressure of the huge structure forced out the air and water with tremendous power, like a monster whale spouting.

It was now plain enough what had kept the hud afloat, for as this confined air rushed out, producing a noise like escaping steam, the dark mass began slowly to settle, so that before our boat had returned and was fairly secured at the davits, it had sunk below the surface of the waves, which washed over it for a few moments, as though it were a coral reef. Then it suddenly disappeared altogether. These treacherous seas have been wed named the graveyard of commerce. The mystery of the wreck, so far as we know, was never solved. Doubtless all hands perished together when the vessel capsized. Of course, such an experience sets one to speculat ing upon the possibilities which it involves. Some times a terrible sense of loneliness comes over the voyager upon the ocean, notwithstanding the ship and its immediate surroundings, when he realizes the imniense space covered by the wilderness of the sea.

It is not so much fear as it is awe inspiring. The passengers watched the captain with great interest dady, as he went through the formula of recording the ship's course. Any incident at sea is eagerly seized upon to vary the monotony. As is wed known, the commander of a ship corrects his time by the observation of the sun at meridian, thus specifying his position upon the waste of waters, and enabling him to mark upon the chart his exact latitude and longitude. The process is a mystery to the average traveler, but its simplicity will deligfit him, if he once takes the trouble to understand it. It was a bright December morning when we made the island of Ceylon. Not a cloud was seen breaking the intense atmospheric blue that overhung the vast expanse. Many of the passengers, on retiring the night previous, left word with the steward to be caded at an early hour in anticipation of our sighting the land.