France and her People. By C. C. B

Preface

T N offering this volume to the American -**-*■ people, in response to the wishes of many friends, my great aim has been to describe clearly and correctly, without any exagge ration, the scenes and incidents coming under my own observation. I am confident that no one could have passed through those thrilling events emotionless or passive ; and leave it to the judgment of my readers, and the results in the future, whether I have been too ardent in my defence of a staunch gov ernment, that so improved and embellished France, and placed her first among the nations of the civilized world. C. C. B CONTENTS. PAGE

Chapter I

— Embarkation — Sail to the Ocean— Pererie — Captain Duchene — Talisman of a good voyage — Sailors — Passengers — Sea life — Sea birds —Dolphins — Brest or Havre — Coast of France — Farewells — Landing — Custom House — Hotel 7 CHAPTER H.— Brest— Railways— Morlaix— Flag stations— Fruits— Old castles — Rennes — Le Maiia — Chartres — Buffets — Versailles — Paris — Hotel Mirabeau 17

Chapter X

— Gobelins — Clock Beauvais — Diorama of Solferino — Champs Elys6es — Place de la Concorde — A determined woman... 100

CHAPTER XL

— St. Denis— Jardin des Plantes— Washing— Anecdote of a waiter — St. Genevi^re, or Pantheon 109

Chapter XII

— Place de la Concorde— Ball at the Tuileries— Opening of the Corps Ltgislatif — Emperor's stables — Catacombs 119

CHAPTER XIIL

— Hotel des Invalides— Tomb of Napoleon L— Anniversary ofthe day the Emperor's remains were deposited at the Invalides Contents. PAGB

Chapter XXI

— Departure of the Emperor and Prince Imperial for the war — Bois de Boulogne — Fortifications — Avenue de l'lmpGratrice — American Sanitary Commission — Regiment leaving — Cantini6re — Mont de Piet6 — Park of Vincennes and Castle 211

Chapter I

Embarkation — Sail to the Ocean — Pererie — Captain Duchene — Talisman of a good voyage — Sailors — Passengers — Sea life — Sea birds — Dolphins — Brest or Havre — Coast of France — Farewells — Landing — Custom House — Hotel. \li 7E sailed from New York, September 4th, 1869, on board the Pererie, of the French Trans-Atlantic Company. The excitement was in tense. The rays of the sun poured down their scorching heat greatly to the annoyance of many persons. The ship was crowded with friends, who loved to linger until the last chance was given to go on shore. The hurrying hither and thither of cab men, porters and venders of newspapers, all eager to catch one more dime, added to the bustle and confusion. The last grasp ofthe hand, the last fond kiss, then the rush for the shore. When the anchor is weighed you begin to feel the reality of a departure from home and friends.

The cannons poured forth their solemn and long farewell, the vibration strikes upon the heart with an unknown sorrow — a yearning for the faces we never more may see. The most try ing moment is when the last good-byes with the pilot are interchanged; then you realize that the last link is broken that bound you to the shore. I proceeded to the bow, wishing to obtain a position to enjoy the scenery that would rapidly recede from my gaze. There I stood spell-bound, my eyes riveted on the land, where many dear ones remained. I smothered my grief, determined to conquer the home sorrow, and look from self to Nature in her beauties. The broad sparkling bay was covered with crafts out-going and in-coming; we passed them all. Soon palatial summer abodes, deep wooded banks, the forts, yes, the very air, we left far in the dis tance, and with pleasure I inhaled the pure saline breeze as it rose from the bosom of the deep deep sea.

The ocean was calm ; not a ripple agitated its vast bosom. After leaving Sandy Hook, the bound less expanse of old ocean was our only surrounding. Soon we passed the United States mail steamer, for no ship can outsail the Pererie; she has made the quickest voyages of any steamer from the American ports to the continent. The Pererie was built at the celebrated ship-yard of Mr. Napier, on the Clyde; she has forty-two furnaces ; it requires fifty-two men to attend to the fires. I was charmed with the order and neatness of the crew, and the quiet, dignified manner in which they were governed. Captain Duchene is a veteran sailor, having sailed on the Atlantic steadily for fifteen years, and on other waters since his earliest boyhood. Many of our passengers have made several voyages with him ; they have great faith in his ability, knowing he is always at his post.

For his bravery and humanity in rescuing the crew of a sinking vessel, he was decorated by the Emperor Napoleon III. with the order ofthe Legion of Honor. I was seated on deck the evening after we em barked, when suddenly my attention was turned to a stir amidst a group of passengers. It was caused by a beautiful butterfly, which had taken a long flight from its native shore. It alighted on a bouquet held by a lady ; not being suited, it fluttered and flut tered until it made a final rest upon my little son's shoulder. After receiving great admiration, being examined by each one, Mr. R. returned it to my son. We conveyed the trembling insect to our state-room, carefully placed it in a box (not air-tight), and daily provided rations of sugar, lettuce, parsley, and water. Each day the butterfly became more familiar, often selecting my ear; nose, or head for a resting-place.

One bright morning, the port-hole being open, but terfly availed itself of the opportunity to view the ocean again, and, like the dove, finding no restingplace, returned to Noah. Thus our butterfly flew on deck, and was again captured by Mr. R. and restored to our room. The captain pronounced the occur rence an omen of good luck, a talisman of success. Alas, for the frail insect ! The eighth day it drooped and died. I have it still, without a mar, and its bright coat untarnished by death or time. I prize that trifling memento of our voyage, and will ever keep it in remembrance of the departed captain and other friendships formed on board the Pererie. What a soul-inspiring strain of song welcomed us morning, noon, and night from those sturdy sons of the sea. It was a demonstration that they were happy, enjoying life to the full extent of their capa cities.

They dressed in uniform, their entire costume was navy-blue woollen cloth, with deep collars, adorned with an anchor embroidered in each corner; round caps of the same hue, of heavier fabric. I amused myself on my second day at sea in surveying our fellow-companions. We number eighty in the first cabin. They are composed of per sons in very different classes of society, none alike. We have a great variety of characters ; some morose, some loquacious, some affable, some intelligent, some selfish, some assuming what they never can attain. With such a diversity of character, one certainly can find congeniality of nature sufficient to pass a few days in social enjoyment. We have among our number five Roman Catholic priests ; three Sisters of Charity — genial, intelligent, warm-hearted women ; an interesting family going to India ; also two brides and bridegrooms.

I think our passengers are from many climes, and represent various nationalities. For several of my sea-voyage friends I have formed a lasting friendship. I was usually on deck at six A. m.; that allowed me an hour for walking previous to the summons for a cup of tea, coffee, or chocolate, with bread, butter, rolls, or toast. At nine o'clock we had breakfast, a most bountiful meal, with a great variety of fruit. Each passenger was supplied with wine at all the re pasts. We were always on deck until lunch, at twelve o'clock, which was served above, if desired. At four p. m. the dinner was served, which each day could not be surpassed for style, abundance, or the best French culinary art. The last Sunday on board it was termed the captain's dinner. I could not discover any great addition to our bill of fare.

It was impossible to make improvements. We had delica cies and luxuries in abundance every day. Tea at eight o'clock, and another lunch at ten p. m., for those who desired to indulge their appetites the sixth time in twenty-four hours. The servants were most at tentive and polite, often rendering trifling acts of courtesy unlooked for, and never found, except from French servants. I was lamenting that we would see none of those waves running mountain high ; the captain said, " a little later," and, in reality, they did come. The fifth morning out, we rolled so heavily that the pro tective strips were in requisition along the edges of the tables, or else every dish, contents and all, would have been lodged on the floor. I hastened on deck, was forced to cling to the railing, for we swayed like the limbs of trees in an autumnal gale.

Oh, how magnificent the ocean looked in such a frenzied com motion ! Could it really be the same waters, the same elements ? Yes ; by the bidding of Æolus, his breath had caused the transition. The wind howled piteously, the spray dashed over us, but with such a fairy lightness that we were unharmed. Such sub lime grandeur can never be witnessed, except to stand and watch the waves as they roll upward in graceful beauty, then burst, sending forth the im mense volume they have engulphed, with their hoary heads of foam trickling down to sea-level again, to be raised up and then spent like a bubble. Wind fair all the passage ; a number of sailing-ships came in view, but we left them far behind, struggling with a head wind. I did not envy their situation. The sea birds, gulls, Mother Carey's chickens, and sea swallows hover around our vessel.

The wind has abated; we are nearing the European coast. No one could desire a more beautiful aspect than that which greeted me this morning as I ascended the stairs. The waters were a clear green, waves running high, filled with myriads of dolphins sport ing in the briny deep. They look very singular as they become visible near the top of the translucent waves. They swim in schools very near the ship. Monday morning, September 13. — Every one is in fine spirits. All are inquiring, " Where will you land ? Brest or Havre ? " We have decided for Brest, wishing to pass through Brittany. What a lovely day. The heavens are blue above, the ocean clear and brilliantly illuminated by the rays of Sol. All are impatient to behold the shores of " La belle France," not one more eager than I am to behold once more that beloved land.

I strained my eyes for hours, until the good captain said, " You will not be gratified until after dinner." I was called to claim our luggage, as the hold had been opened. Soon the trunks, boxes, etc., were ar ranged for landing. Dinner being announced, I un willingly left the deck. Our repast finished, we all hastened to the most eligible situations to catch the first glimpse of land. I was indescribably happy. My day dream, my night dream to be realized : I should in a short time behold thy shores again, O France ! The first light house was hailed with joy; every soul on board ran to catch a glimpse of that still distant land. The waters had become perfectly smooth ; the sun was disappearing behind a crimson cloud, edged with orange, with a base of dark purple, emitting such rays of mellow light that the shores resembled en chanted ground.

As all things earthly must end, so came the haven of rest ; and gently we glided into Le Geulet, which is one mile wide, divided by a rocky island in the centre, and reaching far inland. The national emblems fluttered in the breeze; the cannon boomed forth our arrival ; the sky-rockets whizzed high in the air, surrounded by minor fire-works, all in honor of our safe entrance to Brest. We bade adieu to captain, officers, and friends, and, accompanied by fifty persons, descended into the steam-tug that came alongside the ship. When all were on board, the shrill whistle blew ; then they made the " welkin ring," as cheer upon cheer was given. This was a swift ferry-boat, and it reached the quay in a few moments. I gave a lingering look at the Pererie as she reposed upon the still waters, brilliantly illuminated with various-tinted lights ; and felt thankful to the good ship and skilled captain, that by the hand of a wise, protecting Providence we had safely landed.

Everything looked strange as we approached the city, so different from familiar scenes, except the lan guage, which sounded like sweet music to my ears. We immediately entered the Custom House, a large, commodious, well-arranged building, with sanded floor and cushioned seats. The officials were polite ; merely opened our luggage, disturbed noth ing, and detained us only a few moments. We called a carriage ; and while waiting for our trunks, a small beggar-boy came soliciting alms. I had no French coins. He pleaded touchingly for " a penny," " a little penny." A penny in French currency is ten centimes, and a little penny five cen times. Regretting to refuse such a trivial demand, I said, in the kindest manner, I have only American money. He quickly replied, " Madam, American money is just as good for me."

He was well pleased with a five-cent piece. Then we had a short conver sation about fishing. He said, " This port abounds with a great variety of sea fish, and we furnish the ships for many ports." His " good-night " was a low bow and a high elevation of his old cap. We alighted at an ancient hotel in a clean narrow street, the buildings all being six and eight stories high. At the door the obsequious landlady met us, attired in a becoming costume, with white cap, gold ear-rings, and a smiling countenance. She welcomed us to her country with the ease and grace of a duchess. An escort of four servants, each carrying a wax-candle, stood in the hall, and with their white caps and white aprons they looked very neat and appropriately dressed. After mounting the stone stair-case, we hailed the soft-cushioned arm-chairs with pleasure.

The smooth polished floors were so slippery that had we not been good sailors we would have fallen. The beds, with down coverings, curtains, and the purest linen, looked inviting. The mantel-piece was ornamented by a handsome time-piece and vases ; the remainder of the furniture was antique. We were preparing to retire, when a gentle knock announced a visitor; I opened the door. There stood our hostess, begging a thousand pardons for the intrusion ; she wished to inform us that we occu pied the room that had once been His Majesty Louis Napoleon's, " my Emperor," she said. We thanked her for the information, and soon forgot earth, sea, and air in sweet sleep, in which we indulged rather late ; the consequence was a hurried breakfast and a hasty departure to the railway depot.

Chapter II

Brest — Railways — Morlaix — Flag stations — Fruits — Old castles — Rennes — Le Mans — Chartres — Buffets — Versailles — Paris — Hotel Mirabeau. T) REST is the principal naval fortress of France ■*-^ on the ocean ; it has a dock-yard, and is advan tageously situated at the extremity of the department of Finistere. The means of communication between the town and suburb is kept by a swing iron bridge (Pont Imperial), a most ingenious invention. It is 65 feet above high water mark, and is 347 feet long between the piers. It opens in the centre, to allow ships of war to pass ; each half turns on a colossal granite pier, and moves by machinery. We had a view of the picturesque old castle, which belonged to the Duke of Brittany. The city con tains about 80,000 inhabitants. I was amused at the appearance of the water-bearers and market women.

Their dress is original and grotesque in the extreme. Some of the streets are so narrow that vehicles can not pass each other. I never was in such a clean city. The small parks that intersect some portions of it add beauty to the general appearance of the place ; the ancient trees looked grand and fresh ; one 2* would imagine it was spring, as they bore no au tumnal hue. After a long walk, we reached the depot. I was charged two cents for over weight on baggage; I had never been accustomed to such low tariff The depot is large and well adapted to the vast concourse of travellers that continually depart from this city. Soon we were swiftly plying towards Paris, all in fine spirits, having some fellow-voyagers across the Atlantic, and no strangers, in our carriage, as these vehicles are called in Europe.

Each carriage has seats for eight persons. It is lined with light drab cloth, tufted, velvet carpets, blue silk curtains, and a lamp in the centre of the ceiling, which is always lighted, having many tunnels to pass through. There is a silk shade for protecting the lamp, which moves by a spring. The rails are made of steel, and the train runs very smoothly, with no oscilla tion, and veiy little dust or cinders. We moved at a rapid rate. The conductor soon announced Morlaix, a flourishing seaport, romantically situated in a valley wide enough only for the tidal river or creek which runs up. The rock rises so close behind the houses as to give rise to a proverb, " From the garret to the garden, as they say at Morlaix." General Moreau was born here, killed at Dresden, buried at Bordeaux. I may add, he was a favorite general of the Emperor Napoleon I. The great attraction of this town is the air of antiquity which it retains in some quarters.

The grotesquely ornamented corner posts, representing carved figures of kings' heads, priests, saints, monsters and bagpipers, all fill a conspicuous place in the town. The custom of the market-people re sembles that of Brest, their brimmed hats, their loose trunk hose, their shaggy locks flowing down their backs, are all purely of La Bretagne. I was loath to leave this spot, but was forced to obey the signal to be en route. The flag-stations are all attended by women, who stand like sentinels holding rigidly the flag. They all dress alike — round oil-cloth or fire-men's hats, short skirt, round jacket of some bright color, a horn swung over the right shoulder. Their houses are very tidy, snug abodes built of stone ; and each one has a pretty garden rich with many tinted flowers. Such fruit !

I can almost taste it yet. Fruit was offered at every stopping place. It was so tempting we could not resist tasting some. There were baskets of yellow pears, juicy and mellow, plums that were large and luscious, and beautiful clusters of purple and white grapes, all prettily arranged for sale. The choicest grapes were five and six cents a pound ; pears and plums four cents a pound. Do you wonder we indulged our appetites ? We passed many old castles, some ivy-grown, many of them situated on high eminences, with only a turret remaining; others surrounded by a dry moat. At St. Brieuc, on the top of a hilly promon tory, stands the ruined Tour de Cesson, built in 1395, to defend the entrance to the river at its embouchure. In 1 598, after the war of the League, it was blown up by the order of Henry IV.

The ruins remain. Thus the entire route to Paris is diversified by castles, towers and cathedrals, which I was sorry to leave. We rested thirty minutes at Rennes for dinner, which was abundant and excellent; no bustle, no confusion ; there was time for all the courses, and a few moments for a short stroll. This town has been modernized since a devastating fire which occurred in 1720. It contains 49,231 inhabitants, and has a very active lively appearance. Le Mans, the birthplace of Henry II., the first of the Plantagenet kings of England, is pleasantly situated, and a place of some trade. There are extensive linen mills and some tanneries here. Chartres, a fine city, contains one of the most magnificent cathedrals in Europe. The celebrated corn-markets, on Saturday, are carried on by wo men of long standing, and remarkable for their integrity, and the owners place implicit confidence in them.

There is an excellent buffet (eating-house) at this station ; these surpass all the lunch-rooms of any country I was ever in. The main counter is always filled with fancy cakes, confectionery, fruits, wine of all kinds, liquors in bottles, from five cents up to forty cents. They always have good beef soup, roast beef, chickens, ham, and almost everything one could enumerate ; and so cheap that a person might eat and drink without a thought of how much money he has in his pocket. This country is beautifully diversified by hill and dale ; and has smooth wide roads. I often wished I was driving beside those pure streams, or winding up the precipitous mountain paths to some old castle. The moon's silvery light has cast a pensive glow upon the landscape ; soon we discovered the castle of Versailles.

It only occupied a few minutes to travel the eleven miles, and we were in Paris. Hotel Mirabeau was the house chosen. I awoke early to behold the fairest capital and the proudest city of the world. Not desiring to peruse the geography of the heavens, and being admirably situated for that purpose, after breakfast we sought and found a lower story at the Hotel du Louvre, on the Rue de Rivoli, in front of the Louvre, and near the Palais Royal.

Chapter III

Carriages — Old Haunts — Sevres — Meudon — Prince Imperial — Young Patriot — Fontainebleau TEARLY we called a carriage; of these you can -*-J' have a choice either of open or covered, one horse or two. I shall speak particularly of the cheap hackney vehicles. The price by the hour is two francs, or forty cents, by the course thirty cents, and every one gives the driver from five to twenty cents, pour boire (to drink). The one-horse carriages seat two persons, with a seat in front, that can be raised or dropped as you may desire. They are very comfortable, cushioned, carpeted, and a printed tariff hangs in each one. The drivers are very odd-looking, some of them comical ; their style of dress is uniform, — black shiny hats, green coats, scarlet vests, brass buttons, long whips, which they crack continually.

I soon became accustomed to the din, and liked to hear the noise. Their speed is four miles per hour. They are polite and honest. I do not know the exact number of public carriages there are in Paris. We have occupied one numbered 5568. Before starting out for the day, I was desirous of finding some old familiar spot, and, from the memo ries of childhood, soon stood within the arcade, that was all gay, and dazzling with rare and elegant merchandise. There was the toy-shop that had been my delight ; a few steps onward the confec tionery, where I had parted with many bright coins. Thus, I could have passed the day ; but friends were waiting for me, and I hurried away. Sevres is situated on the Seine, six miles from Paris, and contains the celebrated porcelain manu factory which for a century has been government property.

The Museum contains specimens from all countries of glass, china, and earthenware. It was founded by Alexander Brongniart, in 1800. Stained glass is also manufactured here, and equals that of Munich, in Germany. The most beautiful work manship known is the Sevres china; the decorations are the finest paintings, copies mostly from the old Italian masters ; the outlines, lights and shadows are perfect; some of the pictures are ten feet square. The art is only known to a few persons. One hundred and eighty were at work to day ; they do not receive very lucrative wages. I purchased a very handsome head of the Prince Imperial for a friend, who upon my leaving America said he would prefer his likeness to aught else. It would be a pleasure could I describe minutely the vast contents of this building ; the entrance and surroundings are as attractive as the interior.

We proceeded to Meudon, an Imperial palace, the summer residence of Prince Napoleon. From its elevated position a most splendid view of the environs is obtained, including towns,, gardens, the Seine, Fort Mont Valerien, also the gilded dome of the Invalides, glistening in the sunbeams like a beacon light directing the traveller to the spot by the Seine where reposes the mortal remains of the great warrior Napoleon, who said, " I desire that my ashes repose on the borders of the Seine, in the midst of the French people, whom I have loved so well." Returning through the Champs Elysees, the coach man attracted our attention to a slight, graceful lad on horseback, who rode with perfect ease, and was entirely master of his gay steed. The driver said, "There is our little Prince." We had the pleasure of beholding him ; every moment he was returning the many salutations, cap in hand, bowing first to the right, then to the left ; as he disappeared the air resounded with Vive lEmpereur !

The Prince is a great favorite ; he has been educated to sympa thise with the afflicted, to assist the indigent, and to treat every one with courtesy. I chanced to form the acquaintance of a bright intelligent lad from St. Cloud, who had often shared in the sports of the Prince in the palace grounds. The boy told me, " The Prince is very thoughtful for others ; we never went during recreation hours to play, that he did not regale us with cakes, which we enjoyed under the shade of those lofty trees." He also said with enthusiasm, " I have a father and three soldier brothers ; we would all die for our Prince, or for our Emperor, Vive I' Empereur." And the young patriot would become pale with emotion. I said, " My good little fellow, suppose your brothers should be killed in war some future day, what would you do ?

" He instantly replied, " I would seize a gun and fill the place of the first one that should fall." Poor boy, alas, one balmy morning I met him at Versailles, a few months later ; his mother was be side him, in tears. I said, " Good morning, my brave lad. What is the matter?" " Nothing," he re plied ; " it is the anxiety I feel for my brothers. We have heard that two of them have been killed at Gravelotte." I endeavored to breathe a few words of consolation to the weeping mother. Suddenly smiling through her tears, she exclaimed, " Thank God, there is another son that will be able to fight for the little Prince." This is one instance among hundreds that I heard. A party of friends called at an early hour for us to join them in a trip to Fontainebleau. Soon we were rapidly advancing towards the desired spot.

How can I describe the style and beauty of this palace and grounds ? What shall I write ? Many have written, all admired. I will simply relate my impressions, and endeavor to give an idea of its vastness and splendor. Imagine the pleasure-grounds, that contain 60,000 acres, and not a foot unimproved ; roads and walks traversing it in all directions and in all forms ; plains, ravines, hill-sides, deep tangled woods, with ivy clinging to trunks and limbs ; a parterre of many tinted flowers, in the highest state of cultivation ; and you have only a faint idea of what these grounds represent. A sudden turn brought us to the crossing of four roads, where stands an obelisk named La Croix du Grand Veneur. It receives its appellation from a spectral huntsman that appeared to Henry IV., a few weeks previous to his assassina tion.

Our guide having been a soldier at Solferino, and devoid of superstition, gave slight credence to the legend. He was an honest, polite man, de voted to his country and the Emperor. I never saw a more diversified tract of ground ; even the broom, heath and black fir plantations are extensive, from which ranges of jagged, bare sandstone arise, rendering the scenery picturesque. Groves of majestic oak and beech abound, with such a dense foliage, that I could not catch a glimpse of the blue vault above. I wondered how often Louis XIV., Henry IV, and Napoleon had been sheltered from sun and rain during a stag hunt on the spot where I stood. In imagination I could see them all. The old hermitage is worthy a glance; age gives it respect, having stood since the days of Philippe Auguste. Should I describe the eagle's nest and many other points of interest, I am fearful my most patient reader would become weary.