Baggage & Boots; or, Smith's first peep at America ... Thirty-nine illustrations

Front matter

Tiie Catitol at Washington. Baggage & Boots; OK, SMITH'S FIRST PEEP AT AMERICA. AN INSTRUCTIVE TALE OF TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE. Illustrations. PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR BY THE SUNDAY SCHOOL UNION, 56, OLD BAILEY, LONDON, E.C. 1S83. PEEFACE. In the following pages I have endeavoured to give a brief sketch of a tour in the United States of America, together with some description of the peculiarities (from an Englishman's point of view), in the hotels, modes of conveyance, travelling, manners and customs, &<_., of our American Cousins. It is hoped that the younger members of society, for whom the narrative has chiefly been written, will find much in it to interest, instruct and amuse ; and if they will take the trouble to follow the course of our Tourist on a good map, cannot fail to add to their geographical knowledge.

Geography learnt in this way, i.e., associating the localities with a good descriptive narrative of actual personal experience, is probably more firmly fixed in the memory, than in any other, with perhaps the single exception of visiting the places one's-self ; while certainly the former has the advantage of being by far the cheapest mode of the two. The description of some of the great American high and a VI.

Preface

. low pressure river steamboats, also of the telegraph, telephone, and fire-engine arrangements, will, I hope, prove of general interest. Possibly in no one thing is the difference between the English and the Americans so marked, as in our respective railroad arrangements, and as this is a subject in which so many take an interest, I hope the reader will forgive the large amount of space I have devoted to it, and things incidental thereto, such as the American system of jobbing railroad tickets, known as " Scalping." Should any of my readers be contemplating taking a trip across the Atlantic themselves, the information on the above subjects, together with that concern ing the hotel accommodation and charges, the time occupied on various journeys, fares, &c, will, I trust, prove of advantage to them.

Some of the illustrations have appeared previously in "Picturesque America'' ; and are reproduced here by permission of the publishers of that work. A word of explanation ought perhaps to be given with regard to the title selected for this book. Sometimes a very small thing is capable of causing a great amount of vexation. The two things that annoyed our Tourist, more possibly than anything else, were, the great nuisance he found it, to be encumbered

PREFACE.

. Vll. with more luggage than he could carry in his hand — in America invariably called " baggage" — and the price expected by the street shoeblacks — over there called " shiners " — for their work. Of course these charges form but a small item in the cost of a lengthy tour ; but sometimes little things of this kind cause as much annoyance and irritation, as some far more substantial grievance. A. B. 93, Evering-road, London, X. June, 1883. Contents. PACK

Chapter II. Departure Is Chapter III

29 LIFE ON Till; OCEAN WAVE CHAPTER IY. FIRST DAY* IN SEW YORK 41

CHAPTER V.

•ROAD, ETC 59 NEW YORK ELEVATED RAIL

CHAPTER VI NEW YORK AND SUBURBS, ETC

"! I

CHAPTER VII. AMERICAN HOME LIFE, ETC

90

CHAPTER VIII. AMERICAN CHURCHES AND SUNDAY SCHOOLS

108

CHAPTER IX.

AM1.1.K AN UAIL-KOAD TRAINS, ETC. — PHILADELPHIA . . . 110

CHAPTER X. PHILADELPHIA AND BALTIMORE CONTENTS.

ix. PAGE

CHAPTER XI.

■WASHINGTON 140 i

CHAPTER XII. VIRGINIA AND WEST VIRGINIA, THE OHIO RIVER, ETC.

. . . 158

CHAPTER XIII. CINCINNATI AND LOUISVILLE

171

CHAPTER XIV. THE MAMMOTH CAVE.

— THE MISSISSIPPI KIVEK . ... 192

CHAPTER XV. ST.

LOUIS— PUBLIC BUILDINGS — MANNEP.S AND CUSTOMS, ETC. . . 211

CHAPTER XVI.

A NIGHT IN A PULMAN PALACE SLEEPING CAE— KAIL-r.OAD TICKET "scalpers" — Chicago, alias " roucorous " — pig-killing AND PORK-PACKING 225

CHAPTER XVII. THE TELEPHONE

: ITS UNIVERSAL USE — GRAIN ELEVATORS — LAKE MICHIGAN — MILWAUKIE — GRAND HAVEN, ETC. . . . 243

CHAPTER XVIII. DETROIT, CLEVELAND, ERIE, ETC

256

CHAPTER XIX. BUFFALO

— NIAGARA FALLS 268

CHAPTER XX. ABOVE AND BELOW NIAGARA FALLS

— PLACES OF INTEREST IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD — THE BURNING SPRING, ETC. . . X CONTENTS. PAGF.

CHAPTER XXI. LAKE CHAMPLAIN

— THE AU-SABLE CHASM — LAKE GEOT.GE— SARATOGA — ALBANY — THE HUDSON RIVER 30&

CHAPTER XXII. CONEY ISLAND

— FALL RIYER — MARTHA'S VINEYARD — NANTUCKET 328

CHAPTER XXIII. BOSTON

: PUBLIC BUILDINGS, ETC. — PLYMOUTH AND THE PILGRIM FATHERS 340

CHAPTER XXIV. HOMEWARD BOUND

— FAVOURITE SHIPBOARD GAMES — CONVERSATION ABOUT MONTREAL AND LOWER CANADA, ETC 355

CHAPTER XXV.

A CONVERSATION ABOUT THE ORANGEMEN, AND FRENCH AND IRISH ROMAN CATHOLIC'S OF LOWER CANADA, ETC. . . . 375

CHAPTER XXVI. ARRIVAL IN OLD ENGLAND AGAIN

— CONCLUSION . List of Illustrations. TAGE TRANSATLANTIC MAIL STEAMER '"BRITANNIC" . . . .19 <JRAND SALOON OF " BRITANNIC " 24 PROMENADE DECK OF DITTO 33 GRAND STAIRCASE OF DITTO 40 NEW YORK ELEVATED RAIL-ROAD . si 4 NEW Y'ORK — "HIGH BRIDGE" OVER THE HARLEM RIVER . . 67 NEW YORK FERRY STEAMER 78 NEW Y'ORK — BLACKWELL'S ISLAND 99 AN AMERICAN TRAIN . 115 PHILADELPHIA — CHESTNUT STREET 120 PHILADELPHIA — GIRARD COLLEGE 121 WASHINGTON — VIEW OF "THE CAPITOL " . . . Fl'Ol.thpiecc WASHINGTON — VIEW OF THE U. S. TREASURY" 146 WASHINGTON — THE WHITE HOUSE 149 WASHINGTON — THE WHITE HOUSE (BACK VIEW) .... 151 WASHINGTON — THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTE 152 OHIO RIVER STEAMER 167 LOUISVILLE RAIL-ROAD BRIDGE 180 NEW ALBANY" . 187 THE MAMMOTH CAVE 197 MISSISSIPPI RIVER STEAMER 207 ST. LOUIS . 213 CHICAGO — GENERAL VIEW 231 CHICAGO— GENERAL VIEW FROM LAKE MICHIGAN ....

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE BUFFALO — DISCHARGING GRAIN FROM STEAMER . . ■ 269 EUFFALO — AT NIGHT • • 273 NIAGARA FALLS— GENERAL VIEW 287 NIAGARA RIVER RAIL-ROAD SUSPENSION BRIDGE .... 295 NIAGARA— CAVE OF WINDS AND BIDDLE's STAIRS . . . - 300 THE AU-SABLE CHASM 310 LAKE ST. GEORGE— FORT WILLIAM HENRY HOTEL .... 314 HUDSON RIVER — THE PALISADES 325 HELL GATE— EAST RIVER, NEW YORK 335 BOSTON — GENERAL VIEW 341 BOSTON — STATE HOUSE OF MASSACHUSETTS . ... 343 BOSTON— FANEUIL HALL 345 BOSTON — BUNKER'S HILL MONUMENT 347 SMOKING ROOM ON ATLANTIC STEAMER 359 QUEBEC— DURHAM TERRACE OB, SMITH'S FIRST PEEP AT AMERICA.

CHAPTER I.

Which tells how Smith came to go — He loses his situation — Is unsuccessful in obtaining another — Visits his friend Will Brown, who advises him to take an American tour — Determines to go — Engages a herth on Ocean Steamer — General preparations. SMITH felt in an awfully bad humour, and disinclined to be sociable and agreeable with anybody or anything. The fact was, he was out of a situation, and was learning by aggravating experience that " remunerative situations are more easily lost than obtained." Every day thousands of men and women, and younger persons too, are finding out the truth of this statement, and with very many their troubles are embittered by the consciousness that it is entirely through their own fault that they have lost their previous engagements, and are now wearing out feet and shoe-leather, brains and temper, in their search for another.

B ; or, With Smith, however, this was not the case. Although, like most other people, he had had many things to put up with that he did not like, he had long ago determined that it should have to be something very serious indeed amiss before he would take umbrage at it, as he thoroughly believed in the truth of the old proverb which advises people not to quarrel with their bread and butter. For all that, he was quite alive to better his position, and always on the look out with that end in view, but was nevertheless determined not to leave his employment of his own accord until he had the definite offer of a better one. Notwithstanding all this our friend was out of a situation. To do him justice it was through no fault of his own. It came about through the large commercial house, in whose service he had been for several years, failing in business.

In consequence, the emploj-ees, high and low, one and all, received notice that their valued services were no longer required ; and our friend Smith had, of course, to depart with the rest. Since then, for some weeks, he had been seeking another appointment, but it seemed a futile undertaking. Each day he returned to his apartments with the word " Disappointment " plainly marked upon his brow. Every morning he searched the columns of " Situations Vacant " in the daily papers. Wherever he applied personally he found dozens of others, each eager after the place ; some of them, even in spite of a good education (which used thirty years ago to be considered the unfailing stepping-stone to success), evidently so very hard up that they would gladly accept anything ; even at a remuneration so small that it would go but little further than providing them with a good meal to comfort them internally and a new suit of clothes to comfort them without.

Smith, who had of late been receiving a very respect able salary, soon grew tired of applying after places where he saw so many others waiting for an " interview," as, even when he was in every other respect fully qualified to undertake the duties required, he was in variably underbid as regards remuneration by others more hungry than himself ; who had never laid by against a rainy day ; perhaps had never had a chance of doing so. Many of the advertisements read, " Apply by letter only, stating full particulars"— "No personal applications attended to," &c, &c. Even in answering these Smith was no more successful. To some seventy -seven letters he wrote,he only received answers from three. The first offered a salary of just one fourth the amount he had recently been receiving ; the second less still, the advertiser at the same time intima ting that he had received over a hundred applications for the vacancy, and that the remuneration he named would command the markets considering the very de pressed state of trade, &c. With the third there was no sucb difficulty as regards wages, as that was put at a very tempting figure.

The objection here rose from quite another cause. The letter stated that Messrs. Try it-on, Catch & Bolt, wanted a gentleman for a place of creat responsibility, previous knowledge of the ; or, business was not necessary, but as it was a place of trust they required a small deposit of £200 to be placed in their hands as a security. Smith, however, had earned his money slowly, and did not feel inclined to deposit £200 of it in anybody's hands as a security against defalcations, until he had satisfied himself that the parties he deposited it with were not themselves defaulters. Although well acquainted (by name at least) with most of the city houses he did not remember ever having heard of Messrs. Try-it-on, Catch & Bolt, so turned to find the name in the London Directory ; but he searched in vain, for that firm had only taken a single room on the 3rd floor of a building of city offices the day they inserted the advertisement which brought them in communication with our friend.

There was one more resource left open to Smith, viz. to advertise for a situation, which he did. The result, however, was much about the same. To a series of ex pensive advertisements he only obtained six answers, five of them from agents requesting particulars of his requirements for insertion in their books, the other from the proprietor of a small grocery shop, trying to increase bis trade by calling the place a co-operative store, which, however, was merely the private adventure of a small tradesman already on the verge of bankruptcy. As he did not know this at first, he went to the " manager " (?) and learnt that the hours of business at the "store" were from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturdays till midnight ; and that the wages paid were in inverse ratio to the time and labour expected of the assistants.

He could not submit to those terms, so wished the proprietor " Good-day," and walked out. And so at the end of April he found himself just where he was two months before, so far at least as obtaining remunerative employment went. We commenced by stating that Smith was in an awfully bad humour ; and so indeed he was ; as he walked slowly home from the interview with the " manager " of the "store "just alluded to, soliloquising by the way on the dulness of trade and things in general, and on his own misfortunes in particular. On arriving at his apartments, he found a letter waiting for him, which proved to be an invitation from an old schoolfellow, William Brown, urging him to come round and spend the evening at his house. At first he felt little inclined to do so ; but, on second con sideration, he thought that possibly his friend might have heard of a vacant situation that he wished to tell him about ; so he determined to go.

On reaching Mr. Brown's house, his friend opened the door to him, himself. " Well, John, old chap, how pale you look ; here, let me hang your hat and coat up. Now, step into the parlour. I'm afraid you're not well." " No, indeed, I know I am not in my temper — that is very bad indeed." " How comes that about? " laughingly said his friend. " Why ! through trudging one's legs off, and wearing one's fingers and brains out, answering useless advertisements." " Is that conducive to a bad temper? " asked Brown. " Indeed, Will, it is," replied Smith,"' and if you ever ; or, go through the same experiences that I have had during the last eight weeks, pardon my saying, I think that you, or any one else, would catch the disease." " Well, perhaps I should, but now I have a suggestion to make." " Oh !

I am glad of that," be said, brightening up. " What is it ? Have you heard of anything you think might suit me ? " " No, it is not that ; and even if I had, you do not seem to me to be in a fit state of health to do anything. My idea is that you should give up all thoughts of looking for a situation, for the present, while trade continues in such a depressed state, and in the meantime take a tour through the United States and Canada, the same as I did a few years ago." " Oh, but look at the expense." " The cost will not ruin you. It is not a tour that you will be wanting to take every year ; and even if it was, you might not be in a position to do so. You would, in all probability, be engaged in business, and unable to leave for several months right off. Or you might have entered into the state of matrimonial bliss, as I have now done ; in which case you would find the expense vastly increased were you to take your wife and family, and perhaps after all they would not care to go."

"Well, I should enjoy the trip, I'm certain of that." " Yes, indeed, old boy, I know you would ; and while you are away I will keep a good look out ; and if I see anything going in your line, I will endeavour to secure it for you till you come back." " Many thanks, Will ; you're a right down good old friend to me." " And when you get back trade will be better ; and the remuneration better ; and your health better ; and the bad temper you complained of — well ! I don't know about that, as on that score you appear to me to be well already." And so it was definitely arranged that Smith should leave off searching the daily papers for vacant situations, and instead, set to work and make the necessary prepa rations incident to a four-months' tour, away from home. One of the first things he had to do was to engage a berth on one of the Ocean Steamers crossing the Atlantic.

A choice of routes presented themselves. He could start either from London, Southampton, Bristol, Liverpool, or Glasgow ; and could select, as his port of entry into the New World, either Quebec, St. John's, Halifax, Boston, New York, Philadelphia, or Baltimore. The largest and most superbly-fitted passenger steamers afloat sail between Liverpool and New York ; and as Smith thought it probable he might never go again, he made up his mind to pay the highest price, and cross in one of the best. He chose the White Star Line ; and called at the London office to select a berth in their vessel, sailing the following week. To his astonishment he found that all the best rooms had already been taken, and that in order to secure a good one by any of the leading lines, it is necessary to book your berth a month or so in advance.

As Smith was going entirely for pleasure, there was ; or no necessity for him to cross on that particular date ; so, instead of takinoa berth he felt sure he would not like, he postponed the date of his departure a week or two, and selected a berth on the "Britannic," whose departure was fixed for the following Thursday three weeks. Besides calling at the steamboat office, he bad also to visit his hosier, boot-maker, hatter, and tailor ; cautioning the latter, in particular, that he wanted some clothing of the lightest possible description, as, although the winter in the northern states is so rigorous, the heat in summer is far greater than anything experienced in England. During the interval that elapsed between finally deciding upon taking the tour and actually starting, Smith called several times upon his friend William Brown, as he was naturally anxious to obtain from him any information that might prove of service, and which his friend was of course very willing to impart.

Among other things he recommended him to take a folding-cane, or carpet-garden chair, for use on the ocean voyage, and which he would have no trouble with while touring from place to place in the States, as on arrival at New York he need not take it from the quay, as he could book it there, and leave it with the company, who would take care of it until he returned, free of charge. At Brown's suggestion also, before the day of sailing came, he called at the Bank, and obtained through the manager a Banker's circular letter of credit, so as to be able to draw small sums of money from different banks in the various American cities he purposed visiting, as he should require it. This arrangement obviated the undesirable necessity of carrying large sums of money about with him when travelling. * * * * In the following chapters we will describe Smith's adventures, and the impressions that his American tour made upon him in his own words, as related to the author by him on his return to England,

CHAPTER II.

Off at last — Euston Square — Prince's Landing Stage, Liverpool — Ocean Steamer, "Britannic" — Reception of saloon passengers — Adieu to friends — Smith and his '' Compagnonde voyage" introduce themselves to each other— American cutlery — The first meal — Seats at Table — Arrangement of state-rooms and sleeping berths — Robinson's request, as he sleeps in the lower berth — Noise of machinery — Breakfast — Queenstown Harbour — Waiting for the Mail from London — It arrives, and more passengers — The " Britannic " departs. THE day of departure arrived in due course. After breakfast I settled up with my landlady, and entered the cab which the servant-girl had called from a neighbouring rank. My luggage consisted of two portmanteaux, and the steamer chair (that I had been advised to take). As the cab drove off Mrs. Brown waved a last good bye, and twenty minutes later I found myself at Euston Square Terminus.

A six hours' train ride landed me at Lime-street Station, Liverpool ; and another cab ride of ten or twelve minutes conveyed me to the Prince's Landing Stage. This, together with the adjoining St. George's Stage, forms the longest and largest floating stage in the world. Several ocean steamers were lying in the stream, all about to sail with the tide. The steam tenders of the various companies were moored along the Prince's Landing Stage waiting to convey passengers and their luggage to their respective ships. Punctually to time S. S. " Britannic," Sailing between Liverpool and New York. one of the " White Star" Company's tenders left the wharf with their passengers and friends, the luggage following in another. The " Britannic " looked very grand as she lay in the river; so majestic and motionless, that it seemed impossible that any sea, however stormy, could have much effect on her.

The steerage passengers, numbering several hundreds, were already there, they having been conveyed on board some hours before. The ship's officers were standing near the gangway to receive the passengers as they came on deck, and stepped forward and shook hands with several they recognised as having crossed with them before. The two dozen or so stewards all looked very prim, in their dark blue suits, with gilt buttons, as they stood in single file all together, drawn up in regimental order. The passengers for the most part made at once for the companion way, and down stairs ; and after a peep at the grand saloon, went off in search of their various state-rooms in order to dispose of small handbags, umbrellas, &c, out of the way. In about ten minutes a bell rang for those who had only come to see friends off to return to the tender ; and in a few minutes-more they were conveyed back to the shore.

It took nearly an hour to get all the luggage on deck, from off the other tender; the last being put on board a few minutes after five, when the signal was immediately given to steam ahead slowly. Soon after starting I went below, and found that the children, among the passengers, and their attendants ; or, were having their evening meal. At 5.30 p.m. a gong was sounded for the other passengers to prepare for dinner ; so I went to my state-room, as I was wanting to have a good wash after my long railway journey. I was also anxious to ascertain who my " compaanon de voyage " was to be, as each state-room has at the least two berths in it, so that unless you have a friend with you, or pay a fare and a half to secure the room to your self, you have to share it with a. stranger ; and the comfort of the voyage depends very much on what sort of person he happens to be, and whether he is a good sailor, or given to " mal-de-mer."

Since I first peeped into my room on coming on board, someone else had evidently been there, for I now found in the lower berth a leather hat-box, and a small travelling box, both labelled, " J. H. Robinson, Sheffield." While I was arranging things in general, and my own toilet in particular, a gentleman peeped in at the door. " Mr. Robinson, I presume," I said. " Yes, that is my name, how did you know ?" " Why, I see it there, on your luggage, and since you and I have got to share the same cabin together for the next ten days, whether we like each other or not, I think we had better shake hands and be friends at once." " With all my heart." " I see your luggage is marked ' Sheffield :' I lived in Sheffield, for a short time, some few years ago ; are you in business there ?" " Not for myself, I am travelling for a cutlery firm there."

" Why, is there much English cutlery sold in the States ?" " Yes, a good deal." " Why, I thought the Yankees were so clever that they cut us out of the market altogether, with their hatchet heads, and the like." " Oh well, I don't know. It is table cutlery, almost exclusively, that our firm goes in for, and if you come across a dinner knife at any of the hotels there that will cut, you may be sure it comes from England. Why, you might just as well try to shave with a wooden razor as to cut hot bread, or even meat, with an American made knife." " Well, I should not have thought it." " But I am hindering you, and as there is not room in this scrap of a cabin for both of us to dress at the same time, I will leave you now and return again in a few minutes." The ship's purser appointed the passengers their seats at table.

Of course he did his best to accommo date those who had a preference for any particular seat. The passengers keep the same seat at each meal during the vovage. As I had never been on an ocean voyage before, and did not know how I should stand it, I selected a seat as near the centre of the ship as I could. I thought that, if the ship rolled much, I should have less motion to withstand there than at the side of the vessel. I also chose a seat at the end of one of the tables, near one of the doors of the saloon, in order that I micht slip out and on deck easily, should I be com pelled to do so. I found, however, that there was no ; or, need to select an end seat in order the more easily to leave the table, as each passenger had an arm chair to himself or herself, which turned on a pivot like a music stool, so that wherever your seat might be, you co uld come or go without disturbing your neighbours.

The Grand Saloon of S. S. " Britannic." At six o'clock the gong sounded again for dinner, when a goodly company assembled and an excellent repast was served,equal in every respect to the table d'hote at any first-class hotel on shore. It lasted for about an hour, after which most of the passengers found their way to the promenade deck ; folding chairs were got out, and their owners made themselves easy, resting comfortably there in the light of the setting sun, and ■A A breathing in the pure sea air ; while others preferred to walk up and down, or to gaze upon the Welsh mountains on the port horizon,the summits of which tho solar orb was tinging with his setting rays. As it got dark the passengers, one by one, went below, and most of them turned in early to bed. It was a splendid moon light night, and the good ship steamed across St. George's Channel as steadily as if it were but a river, although there was a strong westerly wind blowing.

When I retired to rest I thought I should have little chance of sleeping with those engines going bump, bump, bump, bump, incessantly. But Robinson com forted me by saying that I would soon get used to the noise. " Have you noticed those push stops to ring for the steward if you want him ?" asked Robinson. " Yes," I replied ; " What a fine idea it is to have an electric bell to each berth, and fixed so nicely, too, so* that you can ring it as you lie in bed." " Yes ; but what I wanted to say was this, if you feel at all ill in the night, please do not hesitate to ring for the steward at once, because remember I am in the berth underneath you." " All right ; that was the only consolation I had when I found that I was unable to get a lower berth ; viz.. that should we be both ill, I am on the top, and someone else below.

A true case of top sawyer, I think you might call it." " Oh, well, I hope we shall neither of us be troubled that way, though, speaking for myself, I feel rather doubtful." c ; or, Having bid good-night to my companion, I tried to go to steep, but the bumping noise made by the engines kept me awake for a long time. The sensation, as heard and felt in my state-room, could best be imitated by knocking on the centre of your dining-room table with your closed fists at the rate of some seven thumps in two seconds. At last, however, Morpheus had pity on me, overcame all obstacles, and took me into his arms. When I opened my eyes the following morning I could see, as I lay in my berth, we were coasting along the South of Ireland. Not feeling inclined to get up just then I turned over and tried to go to sleep again.

Presently, however, I heard the "getting-up gong"sound ; the noise got louder and louder until it was evidently being sounded just outside my room. "Halloa!" thought I, "it's eight o'clock, I had better get up." So scrambling down from my little shelf, I dressed myself quickly, and was able to go for a short walk on deck, before the breakfast gong went at 8.30. After breakfast a mail bag was hung up in the saloon, and a good many of the passengers set to work letter-writing, as it would be the last opportunity they would have of communicating with their friends for some time. The letter writing was not all on love affairs, some were evidently writing on business matters, &c. At 10 a.m. the " Britannic " entered Queenstown Harbour, and soon after dropped anchor, about a mile and a half from the wharf.