A Private Journal in Egypt ... 1894 ... 1895, etc

Front matter

FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION ONLY May 7, 1895. From Professor and Mrs Attfield, Watford, Herts. It is a year to-day since our Son left England for Egypt. At the urgent request of many of his friends, and solely for private circulation, ive have printed — from the original type-written sheets sent by him, weekly, to three circles in England — a certain number of copies of just this first year's Private Journal. Please accept one. A single line in acknowledgment of its receipt will suffice, addressed to us as above. If, after looking it through, you have found any matter respecting which you may feel disposed to write direct to him— well, ' a letter from old England,' he says, 'is even brighter than rays of the East.' His address is simply, Dr. D. H. Attfield, Suez. We have included a map (drawn by his sister), his portrait (given by our ' Acme' friends), have inserted headings to the paragraphs, and have added a title-page and a table of contents ; all else is his own.

J. A. and M. A. DONALD HARVEY ATTFIELD 1H94 FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION ONLY A PRIVATE JOURNAL IN EGYPT FEOM MAY 1894 TO MAY 1895 BY Dr D. HAKVEY ATTFIELD, M.A.Cantab. k QUARANTINE MEDICAL OFFICER AT SUEZ AND MOSES WELLS SUB-DIRECTOR OF THE MECCA PILGRIM ENCAMPMENT AT EL TOR APPENDICES L— WYOMING IN 1891 II.— MUNICH IN 1892 ' Now, sirrah, you do wish yourself in Egypt ? ' ' I will to Egypt ; i' th' east my pleasure lies ' Ant. and Cleo., act ii. scene 3 |hint.b bg SPOTTISWOODE & CO., NEW- STREET SQUARE, LONDON

Preface

Tuesday, January 1, 1895. — Yesterday completed my first eight months in Egypt. I have indeed had a varied experience of places, men, and manners in a comparatively short time, and the experience has been at once highly instructive and extremely interesting. I am so glad to notice, too, that the narration of that experience has proved of interest to what I find to be the many readers of the three copies of my Journal which one operation of my type-writing machine has enabled me to send to England weekly. The evidence of that interest is the anxiety which already thirty or forty of my friends evince to possess duplicates of the diary — including Dr. Mackie, C.M.G., of our Sanitary Council at Alexandria, who saw the home-copy when he was at Watford. More over, the Mater and Pater have offered to print and distribute the copies.

Eespecting all this I can only say that I feel highly complimented. Assuming that VI A PRIVATE JOURNAL strangers who may see the diary will regard it as compiled for the consideration of those alone who know me,1 and will read only the paragraphs of general interest — commencing, say, at ' June 7 ' — that the type and ' get-up ' be modest, and that the issue be private, then I most willingly, nay gladly, fall in with my friends' wishes and my too fond parents' offer. All readers will please understand. that my Journal only records the diversions of a young physician, chit-chat for friends, and the results of general rather than professional observation of men and things. Monday, April 15, 1895. — I concur in the sugges tion that the book should contain the record of one, only one, complete year in Egypt.

D. H. A. 1 Robert Louis Stevenson's remark respecting ' every book ' is especially true of a journal, namely, that it ' is, in an intimate sense, a circular letter to the friends of him who writes it. They alone take his meaning ; they find private messages, assurances of love, and expressions of gratitude, dropped for them m every corner.' — J. A. and M. A. CONTENTS PAGE PAGE Introduction 1 Motley Groups . . . . 40 England to Italy . . . 6 Eastern Brightness, c . .43 Milan 7 El Tor 43 Brindisi . . . . . 8 An Enthusiast . . .45 Crossing the Mediterranean . 10 ' Many Happy Returns ' . . 46 Arrival in Egypt . . . 14 The Archbishop, a . . 46 Reception — First Week . . 14 Alcohol 47 Work and Play, a . . . 16 The Khamseen . . .47 Punctuality . . . .17 The Camel Post . . . 48 Reception — Second Week . . 19 Temperature . . . .49 Full Dress . . . .20 The Archbishop, 6 . . . 50 Alexandrian Feasting . . 22 Reception— Third Week . 22 Eastern Brightness, a . . 22 Preparatory Labours . . 50 A Mahomedan Fete, a . . 51 A Desert Garden . . .52 Work and Play, 6 . . .23 Our Kitchen . . . . 53 Hospitals 25 The Archbishop, c . . 54 A Regatta . . . .25 Yachting . . . . . 55 Pay-Day 26 Pistol Practice . . 55 Adieu, Alexandria . . .26 Dining at Tor . . . . 56 En Route, a . . . . 29 At Work . . .57 Eastern Brightness, b . .30 A Viper 58 Native Customs . . . 31 Insolation . . 58 The Suez Canal, a . . 32 Flying Fish . . . . 58 Suez 32 Letters from Home a . .59 Tor Camp . . . . 61 Pilgrims, _ . . .64 Fuller Work . . 65 ' Bouckra ' ... 65 The Suez Canal, b . . 34 Quarantining, a . . . . 35 Egyptian Fleas . . .37 Pensions . . . . . 38 Eastern Brightness, . . 66 Adieu, Suez . . . .39 Pilgrims, b . . .66 En Route, b - . .

A PRIVATE JOURNAL PAGE PAGE Balmy Sleep . . . .109 Camel Riding . . . . 67 ' Betises,' a . . . .68 The Bastinado . . . . 109 Pilgrim Ships . . . . 69 Desert-ers . . . .110 Pilgrims Departing . . 70 A Scorpion . . . • HI Sol's Power . . . . 71 Will She Wreck? . . .112 The Holy Carpet . . . 112 The ' Maamour ' . . .72 Sic Transit . . . .113 The Hedjaz Governor . . 72 A Carpet Concert . . . 114 British Doctors . . .73 More Welcome Letters, b . 115 Pashas 73 Character. Covenant, Cross, Crescent. Nature. 6 . . 116 A Shark .... 74 A Side Light . . . . 74 The Pilgrimage Waning . 120 Mecca Work ends . . .78 Holidays on Sinai . . . 79 Medina Work ends . . .121 Stars for Canopy . . .79 Tor, Adieu .... 122 Mountaineering on Camels . 79 Housekeeping Experiences . 123 In a Convent . . .80 Fighting with Choppers . 123 On Sinai's Summit . . . 81 That Cook ! . . . . 124 Tor, id est Mountain . . 125 ' Tables of Stone ' . . .82 Returning to Suez, a. . . 126 Oldest MS. of New Testament 83 Sacrilege? .... 84 Suez Encore .... 127 Suez Work .... 129 The Camp of Israel . . . 85 Quarantining, 6 . . . 130 Tor Once More . . .86 Suez Play 132 Maps and Photographs . . 87 Medina Work begins . . 89 ' Boys ' 134 A Donkey Picnic . . . 135 A Moslem Fete, b . . . 89 Good Fellowship . . . 135 Egyptian Sports . . .92 One Missed.

One Hit. Killed None 137 Egyptian Flies . . . . 92 Red Sea Shells and Corals . 93 Character. Covenant, Cross, Crescent. Nature. _ . . 94 Burns and Palm Oil . . 139 Leaping Fish . . . . 140 The ' Polyglot Crew ' . .100 Terre-Plein. A Seance . . 141 Neptune's Claims . . . 101 The Golden Oriole . . . 143 Moses' Hot Baths . . .101 Quail and Hegeens . . 144 Work and Play, c . . . 103 Another Picnic . . . . 146 A Moslem Festival, c . . 146 Deep-sea Fishing . . . 104 Stalking Bogies . . . 104 Night into Day .... 149 Day into Night . . . 150 A Desert Garden . . 106 Division of Labour . . . 151 1 Betises,' 6 . . . . 106 Edible Lizards . . .107 Life at Suez .... 152 Many Pilgrims, c . . . 107 A Day's Shooting . . . 153 Squatting . . . .108 Retiring to Bed . . . 155 Toujours Betises, c . . . 108 Adieu, Zachariadis . . .

CONTENTS IX PAGE PAGE Hunting Hyæna . . . 156 Gazelle 162 A Friendly Tamarisk . . 162 More Welcome Letters, c . . 164 A Gymkhana . . . 165 British Protection . . . 168 Egyptian Mosquitoes . . 168 A Bift in the Lute . . . 169 Down with Fever . . . 169 Convalescent . . . . 170 Pirates and Sharks . . 171 Clever Divers . . . . 172 Why Red Sea Eed . . 173 Hard on the Yarrotvdale . . 174 Suez Again .... 174 Suez Gardens . . . . 176 Arabic ..... 177 A Rich Mail . . . . 177 A Ship Looted . . .178 Welcome Letters, d . . . 179 Eastern Brightness, _ . . 180 A Sweet Bittern . . . 181 Guy Fawkes Day . . .182 Alexandria Again . . . 182 Eeturning to Suez, b . ■ 185 A Phosphorescent Sea . . 186 Hats on.

Heads off . . 186 Cormorants . . . . 187 Sunsets ..... 187 Mount Ataka . . . . 187 A Holiday . . . .188 An Old Friend . . . . 188 Devil-fishes . . .94, 189 A Eussian Craft . . . 190 Sunshine .... 190 A Eush East . . . . 190 Good-bye, Gannet . . . 191 A Narrow Escape . . . 191 Another Old Friend . . 192 In Cairo 192 Old Cairo . . . .193 Cairo Art 194 Ghizeh 194 The Great Pyramid . . 195 ' Nothing in it ' . . . 195 Statistics of Pyramid . . 196 The Sphinx . . . . 197 Cairo Dances . . . 197 Cairo Eaces . . . . 198 Back at Suez . . . 198 Christmas Day . . . . 198 Snipe Shooting . . .199 The Old Year out . . . 199 The New Year in . . . 199 A Children's Treat . . . 201 Travellers' Photographs . . 201 Original Eesearch . . . 203 A Gallop on an Arab . . 203 Shooting at Tel-el-Kebir . . 204 Many Bushing Wings . . 205 A Sky Black with Birds . . 206 A Case of Poisoning . . 207 A Hero of Tel-el-Kebir . . 209 Duty Again . . . .210 Mirage 210 A Dangerous Fog . . . 211 Lady Antiquaries . . . 212 Niggers and Farces . . 212 Practising German . . . 213 Temperatures Here and There 214 A New French Colleague . . 215 Bullets and Shots . . .217 A Bal Masque . . . . 218 A Full Gale . . . .218 A Man Overboard . . . 220 Ramadan . . . .220 Terrible Waves . . . . 220 Billiards 222 A Eailway Accident . . . 223 Dr. Kenealy's New Novel . 223 Gone to Her Long Best . . 224 Bercine 224 Visit to Port Said . . .

A PRIVATE JOURNAL X PAGE PAGE Flamingoes, Ibis, Pelicans . . 227 Nights in the Roads . . 227 Days in the Marshes . . . 229 Une autre Nuit blanche . . 230 More Mirage . . . . 230 An Oyster Breakfast . . 230 Staff Buildings . . . . 231 Ashlands and Ashlands . . 231 Fatal Influenza . . . . 232 Smokeless Cartridges . . 232 Tor Commissioners . . . 233 Unusual Suez Weather . . 233 General Influenza . . . 233 Bain Breaches Railways . . 234 Easter at Suez . . . 234 A Patriotic Ceremony . . 234 ' At Home ' at Suez . . 235 A Foreign Picnic . . . 235 Cholera at Mecca . . . 236 Penultimate . . . ■ 236 Finis . - . . . .237 Postscript 238 236 List of Curiosities sent Home 239 Appendix I. Paper on a Solidified Glauber's Salt Lake . . 241 „ II. Paper on Water-purification by Infusoria . . 257 Portrait of Dr. D. H. Attfield Frontispiece M_p showing a Cholera Route to face p. x An engraved Plan of the Glauber's Salt Lake . ,,

Introduction

Watford, England, Sunday, May 6, 1894. To-morrow I start for Egypt to take the appointment, under the Government of that country, of, primarily, Sanitary and Quarantine Medical Officer at the Port of Suez and at the adjacent Sanatorium of Moses' Wells. My duties at Suez will be to board vessels that are about to enter the Suez Canal ; and, if the ship's surgeon cannot show a clean bill of health as regards zymotic or infectious disease, to place the whole ship in quarantine, or to order the removal of individual cases to the Sanatorium. An Austrian and a Frenchman have also been appointed. Each of us, in turn, is to be on duty for twenty-four hours, and off duty for forty-eight hours. Suez being on the Bay of the same name, the northernmost portion of the Gulf, and on the western side of the Bay, Moses' Wells is on the eastern side, some six miles down, and some two miles or less inland.

This quiec palm-shaded desert-oasis of Moses' Wells is the traditional spot to which the Israelites • passed through the Red Sea as by dry land, which I: the Egyptians essaying to do were drowned.' The gulf is there only five miles wide. It is understood that the chief professional cases will be pilgrim pas sengers returning from the holy cities Mecca and Medina, half-way down the Red Sea on the eastern or Asian side, close on one thousand miles south of Suez, and seventy and one hundred and twenty miles inland respectively. Secondarily, I may do similar but only periodical duty at Tor, a coast village at the foot of Mount Sinai, about one hundred and forty miles below Suez, but still seventy or eighty miles above the junction of the Gulf of Suez with the Red Sea. Pilgrims are not now to be allowed to land anywhere in Egypt until they have had a sanitary overhauling at Tor Camp during the more special, Koran-appointed, pilgrimage months, about June and July, and at Suez, during the rest of the year.

At Tor one will have to deal with several thousands of pilgrims at a time. I may say at once that these are the beginnings of a great internationally organised attempt to stamp out cholera in its breeding grounds of India, Persia, and the notorious foci Mecca and Medina. (See the illustrative cholera-route map facing page x.) Egypt is making the start — all honour to her — and I have the great satisfaction of being one of the professional pioneers in this warfare of health against disease. It is exactly the work of ' Public Health ' or ' State Medicine ' for which (with liberal and loving aid) I have been fitting myself for the past nine and a half years, under honoured teachers, at Cambridge, St. Bartholomew's, Wurzburg, Munich, and King's Col lege. I begin public life at the age and at the remuneration my father started with in 1862 ; I want no more auspicious precedent, and feel happy, confident, and contented.

The more contented and reliant perhaps, because neither outside personal in fluence, nor inside favouritism, could affect my elec tion. The requirements of the Egyptian Sanitary and Quarantine Board were advertised in the medical journals of England, France, and Germany ; applica tions and testimonials were to be sent to and con sidered by the Board at Alexandria. Not ordinary medical qualifications alone, but special bacteriological and chemical attainments were required, experience in dealing broadly with epidemics such as cholera, and as much all-round administrative and linguistic skill, as well as sound health and physique, as could be conjoined. Here, apparently, was an opening into the very career for which I had been studying and working. Clearly, too, opportunities would be at disposal for increasing whatever power of research, and therefore of usefulness to others, one might already possess.

I applied, adducing testimony from my three univer sities of (a) Cambridge (various diplomas, including one in public health) ; (h) Witrzburg (through Pro fessor Dr. Medicus, Director of the Technological Institute of the Royal University) ; and (c) Munich (through Professor Dr. Max von Pettenkofer, President of the Hygienic Institute, and Professor Dr. Emmerich, Director of the Bacteriological Laboratory of the Royal Ludwig-Maximilian University) ; also (..) from St. Bartholomew's Hospital and College, London, my chief medical school (through Sir William Savory, B Bart., F.R.S., Surgeon Extraordinary to Her Majesty the Queen, and Dr. Thorne-Thorne, C.B., F.R.S., Chief Medical Officer to the Local Government Board) ; from (e) King's College (through Professor Smith, Director of the State Medicine Laboratories where I had been demonstrator ; and Professor Crookshank, Director of the Bacteriological Laboratories) ; and, lastly, (/) from Dr. Thursfield, the Medical Officer of Health for twenty-seven sanitary authorities in Shrop shire and adjacent counties, whose deputy I had been and under whom I had investigated and traced out a large number of epidemic outbreaks.

As regards medical pharmacy and chemistry, I was able, for several years of tuition, to cite (g) my father, Professor Attfield, F.R.S., editor of the ' British Pharmacopœia ' for the Medical Council, and Professor of Practical Chemistry to the Pharmaceutical Society of Great Britain. I was selected, together with a German and a French colleague, out of, as I afterwards gathered, many scores of candidates. I have devoted the substantial fee I earned for my professional work at the Soda Lakes of Wyoming United States, at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, in 1891 [see page 241], to my outfit and other expenses ; so I start with a fair amount of the pleasant as well as proper British feeling of independence. At Suez we three medical officers are to have a steam launch at our disposal, an office, and probably, after a time, a house to ourselves, with appropriate suites of rooms.

In all other respects we are, at present, to fend for ourselves. We are to ' report ' ourselves at Alexandria on Tuesday, May 15. When all preliminaries have been settled there, we go on to our chief station and headquarters at Suez. Which of us will be selected for the Pilgrim Encampment work at Tor I know not. I am extremely anxious to go there myself, for, although the labour will be greater and the social advantages fewer than at Suez, the professional and general experience to be had at Tor will be invaluable, especially in an epidemic year. Besides, the Suez work can be taken up at any time, while the Tor work is only periodic — a couple of months or so every year during the pilgrimage season. This journal, gladly undertaken at the suggestion of my father, will be written with my ' Densmore ' typewriter, four copies at a time, by the usual single stroke operation ; one for home, one for relatives on the maternal side, one for those on the paternal, and one to be retained for reference.

It will be run off in trains, steamboats, carriages ; even on camelback, or in the quietude of hotels or private quarters. It will be written up whenever there is anything to tell that will probably interest my private friends. Time, also, will thus be economised, for some short private letters and post-cards, with perhaps an occasional cipher ' Unicode ' telegram, will be all that will be needed in addition to the journal. How much of detail my readers may desire I cannot estimate satisfactorily at present, but I will do my best to avoid being either dull or tedious. 1894. England to Italy. Monday, May 7. — At 8.50 parted, sadly, with my good mother and two sisters, at the old home, ' Ashlands,' Watford, England. Even the father looked like, and I felt like, turning on ' the founts of emotion,' but all behaved well.

Many friends ' saw me off ' from the station and still nearer home, and from Charing Cross at 11, the pater's hat being the last to wave adieu. One of the largest of the L.C. & D.R. steamers gave me a very comfortable trip to Calais, without a symptom of nausea. The Customs being passed without trouble, I found my ' wagon-lit,' and soon was en route for Bale. For company a pleasant fellow named Earle appeared. We dined together at Chalons-sur-Marne station ; then, rejoining the train, the carriage beds were made, each of us having a separate compartment. Slept, dream ing confusedly of flying, till 4.30, when I got up to see some very pretty country, and was well repaid. Tuesday, May 8. — Soon after 6 a.m. reached Bale. After breakfast started for Lucerne and the St. Gotthard. The clouds were low, but as the day grew older and warmer they rose, and some lovely views were had that my sisters and I had missed through fog some two years ago.

Dined at Goschenen, then started into the great tunnel through the Alps. On reaching the south end the sun was shining brilhantly, and there was scarcely a cloud to be seen. The run down into Italy was doubly interesting, for although we had travelled over the same ground, as I have said, nearly two years back, it was in the opposite direction. The general views appeared familiar, but the details seemed new. Milan was reached at 5.30 ; a long run of 32£ hours straight on end, yet this, the first stage of my journey, had not proved unduly tiring. Milan. The Hotel de Milan afforded a big bath and a good table d'hote. There were people of all nations at dinner, as Milan was en fete on the occasion of the visit of the King and Queen to attend the Exhibition. A funny little Englishman who had sat opposite at dinner went out with me to see the illuminations.

At half-past nine the cathedral was lit up with enormous quantities of coloured fires, the result being one of the most beautiful sights of its kind that could be wit nessed. The actual fires were so well hidden that the eye was treated to their full rich light without their direct glare. There were three changes of colour — white, red, and green, the Italian national colours. The effect produced by the red glow was particularly striking. It brought out every little detail of the exquisite tracery and every figure and pinnacle of this most elaborately beautiful pile. The lurid red was not quite the tint associated with heavenly places, but as a cure de campagne once said to my father respecting such fireworks, ' it pleases the people, and what more would you have ? ' Slept a single sleep of the physically tired for eleven consecutive hours.

Wednesday, May 9. — Much refreshed ; went for a stroll and again visited the cathedral, and deepened the impressions made on me when travelling with my two sisters in 1892. At 1.30 a.m. left for Bologna. The pater's advice to travel ' first class ' was good, for the other carriages are thronged, and I find that one would have had to risk the proximity of people none too savoury in appearance or odour. As far as Bologna, where dinner was served during an hour's stop, had but one companion, and he could only speak Italian, so conversation was not much in evidence. Soon afterwards made up the best bed I could with rug, &c, and slept nearly all night. Brindisi. Thursday, May 10. — At 8 a.m. reached Bari. Here came in an Italian who spoke good German. He was a successful olive-grower, and told his experience in a very interesting manner.

On each side of the rail way all down the Adriatic noticed extensive tracts of ground covered with olive-trees. At 11 a.m. we reached Brindisi. At once sent home an ' Unicode ' cipher telegram, as agreed. Shall be able to join my ship to-night, which, as we sail somewhat early to morrow morning, is a great advantage. The hotel here, the International, is about the only sound-looking building in the town. The quay is very fine, and big ocean steamers can come alongside. Am type-writing at the window of the hotel which looks out on to the quay, and, indeed, I can see my ship, the Gottardo, and almost look into the cabin windows. Fortunately, I have obtained a deck state room whence I can, at least, see what there may be to see — an advantage in the absence of companions, for there are only to be three passengers besides myself.

Our steamer looks rather small beside a big P. & 0. boat, the Australia, which has just come in and is mooring alongside the quay. Now aboard, having had dinner at the hotel. At table there were a great many people who had just left the Australia. Talking with one of them, found that an old hospital chum was on board — Bernard Green — but I could not catch sight of him. The three days' trip to Alexandria does not promise to be very cheerful, for the weather is dull and at present I am the only English-speaking person on board. How ever, the Gottardo is the one vessel that enables me to report myself at Alexandria on the day ordered. My state-room is very good, near the centre of the ship, and has access to an outside deck cabin opening almost on to the saloon. Most of to-day I have spent wandering about Brindisi, a dirty and tumbledown place.

The Italian hotels stopped at during the last two days impose high charges. Thus, 1|- francs (say Is. 5__.) for a bottle of soda-water seems excessive, especially when followed by 5 francs for use of a bedroom for two or three hours. Higher prices than those of a town hotel would not be unreasonable, not so an ordinary charge multiplied several times. Crossing the Mediterranean. Friday, May 11. — On waking up this lovely morning on board the Gottardo about 7.30, after un disturbed rest, found we were already under weigh for the third stage of my trip out to Egypt ; so after a rapid toilette I got out my camera and hurried on deck to get a parting view of Brindisi, which looked most picturesque, if dirty, in the bright morning sun. Then a cup of tea and a roll were acceptable, for the ship's breakfast-hour is not until 9.30.

Breakfast, so called, was a great success ; it con sisted of, first, soup, then hors-d'œuvre, followed by fish, beefsteak, cheese, dessert and coffee, all well cooked and served. As companions at the meal had the other two saloon passengers— an Englishman named Hardinge and a Frenchman called De la Port — and the ship's doctor. Hardinge seems a good fellow. Fortunately, he can speak Italian and is good enough to act as interpreter for me. He is on the way to Zanzibar, where he holds some Government berth. Lunch consisted of cold meat and salad, with cheese, and a light sort of Chianti to drink. For dinner, at six o'clock, they gave us a good menu of some half-dozen different dishes, as well cooked and served as at breakfast. Chianti and a glass of fair Marsala, followed by a cup of rich, bright, black coffee, formed the liquid portion of the repast.

The ship's doctor fed with us, and a place was set for the captain. It is somewhat dismal dining in a big saloon with four ; however, it is less uncomfortable than having it filled, for there are places for eighty. There are four stewards, so the service is good. At nine o'clock they gave us a cup of tea. After a constitutional on deck I turned in, feeling quite ready for my, literally, little bed. Sea calm. Saturday, May 12. — Woke up at eight, the sun shining brightly in through my cabin porthole. Going out on deck found we were in sight of land, which, a steward said, was one of the smaller Ionian islands — Zakyntho. Returning below, after a struggle with an attendant and Murray's Italian ' travel-talk,' managed to get an enjoyable bath ; then tea and toast, followed by an excellent breakfast consisting, as yesterday, of several courses.

The table is pro vided with as much Chianti as passengers care to drink, and of a quality that, with water, yields a refreshing beverage, but alone is rather rough. Abundance of fruit is afforded — oranges, apples, figs, dates, nuts, &c. The food is as good as that pro vided on American liners, and the cooking and service much better. Spent the day in reading various blue-books, sandwiched with some lighter literature in the form of a novel called ' Marcella,' by Mrs. Humphry Ward, author of ' Robert Elsmere.' Am getting on with the Frenchman, having played him several games of ecarte and one at dominoes ; at the latter he beat me, but at ecarte I won four games out of the seven. In the evening passed Crete. Unfortunately the clouds were low; hence the full beauty of its mountains could not be seen.