A Winter Cruise in Summer Seas. 'How I found' health ... Illustrated, etc

Front matter

a A WINTER CRUISE IN SUMMER SEAS. BAY OF RIO DE JANEIRO. A WINTER CRUISE IN SUMMER SEAS "HOW I FOUND" HEALTH. DIARY of a TWO MONTHS' VOYAGE in the ROYAL MAIL STEAM PACKET COMPANY'S s.s. CLYDE, from SOUTHAMPTON, through the BRAZILS, to BUENOS AIRES and BACK, FOR £100. BY CHAELES C. ATCHISON. A PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED WITH PHOTOGRAPHS, AND SKETCHES BY WALTER W. BUCKLEY. LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & COMPANY LIMITED, jet. Uungtan'g ?&ougc, Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C. 1891. [All rights reserved.] LONDON : rRINTKP BI WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, STAMFOltn STREKT AND CHAK1KG CKOSS.

Preface

. Being in failing health and ordered an ocean voyage "at once," one of the three questions — " how, when, and where," was solved for me. The other two I was left to decide for myself, and very trying I found them, for while plenty of books tell you " where " to go, few say " how." Besides, as a rule, such journeys consume too much time or too much money — often both. The problem set before me, was how to make the best use of, say £100, and two months' leave of absence. To begin with, I attacked my task by & process of exhaustion — this was too dear, that was too long a journey — and thus I winnowed the issue down. So far, judgment counted for something. The rest of the solution was pure luck, look at it how you will. What else could it be in such a quest, to light on a path of roses which, for two months to a day, you shall tread in genial company, and under summer skies, for exactly £100 ?

Such was my good fortune. And if you are a sufferer from over-work and "beatiiig about" for guidance, as I was, you will welcome even my erratic footprints on health's Pit EF ACE. VIII highway, and will tolerate the minute details which may be of use to others if not to you. Mind, I promise you just footprints, and no more. In me you have no scientific guide, no travel-stained "globe trotter ; " nothing but a sick man wandering in search of health, and finding it, or at least enough of it to make " life worth living." My "Winter Cruise in Summer Seas" was undertaken solely in search of long-lost sleep, and health that fled with it ; and now that both have been restored to me, I venture to christen my notes with a second name, that is, I think, at once appropriate and fashionable : — " ' How I found ' Health." AUTHOR PAGE xxtu CONTENTS.

Introduction

. "How," "when," and "where" to go— River Plate— Royal Mail— Messageries Maritime*, Bordeaux — Great wavt 8 and little waves — The pro's and con's — The Clyde — Holds one thousand passengers — Full ! — The cost, single aud return Southampton to Buenos Aires — Extra first-class— Cabin companions — The Moselle — Difference in prices — Cost of trip from stait to finish — Books of reference ...

Chapter I. Southampton To Lisbon

Arrival at Southampton— The docks— The tender — The Clyde — Farewells, contrasts — " Dewdrops on the baby's dimpled cheek " — Philosophy — Ominous tidings — Volapiik — The smile that fell off — Portly old gentleman — Vigo — Quarantine — "The Needles" — Dressing for dinner — How it's done — Forebodings — Debate — ■ Motion — " Cormorants " — Dining saloon — M^nu — Alter dinner- Portland coast — Cabin companions—" Dreaming aloud " — Conversazione — Dressing under difficulties — " Thames at Waterloo Bridge " — The ship's bells — " Mark time " — " All's well ! " — " Bull " calves — Island of Ushant— Bay of Biscay— "The Ides of March are come" — Unberufen ! — "Burst to-day and die to-morrow" — P. O. G. " Pog " — Hurrah ! the ghost is laid — Apostrophe to the "Sunny South" — Noontide notice — The "Run" — The Chief Engineer — Seven thousand horses — The reins lay in his hand — John Kemp Ritchie — Description of the Clyde; dimensions and weights— Pog " off colour : " "a la petard " — The watch minute-hand lost — The engines : their pace — The dynamos— The Inferno — " Clockwork and dynamite " — " Called to the bar " — " Breaking their chests " — Pog's waistooat pocket — The whithered hand restored — Magnetism or hypnotism, which ? — Pog's retreat beats the record — " Hey, Presto !

" — Yarns — Nails " in black for his darling wife " — Ten years' " penal servitude " — Snoring again — The CONTENTS.

X TAG- 1 Bay, Pog's malicious crackers—" Portuguese men-of-war" — " Learn of the little Nautilus," etc.— Remorseless Science— Suez— The Russian Count ami the little man— Bloodshed prevented— Bound over to keep the peace— Taken ashore and lost— The discovery — The only " bit of comfort "— " As I make your bed bo you must lie on it "—Approaching the Tagus— Belem Fort— Sixty-four hours from Southampton— " It's the pace that bothered me "—Lisbon — "Stricken with admiration "—Boy's happy thought— Third prize in the Beauty Show of European cities— Traced to Abraham— Also to Ulysses— Julius Cæsar— Felicitas Julia— " Monopoly in Earthquakes"— The "Output"— The fatal concession— The wave, the abyss, and the whirlpool— Sixty thousand persons swept away —Lisbon practically disappeared — The Irish Brigade— " Tiger Tim "— " Hookey fingers "—Ashore— Climate— Short street with a long name — House numbering — Bull-fights — Chapel of St. Vincente — The story of " the two black crows " — Church of Nossa Senhora do Monte — Mothers in posse — Igreja da Graca — Ex Voto, wax models: pictures — Life-saving in all its branches — The artist: "ready-made or bespoke" — An order — Double-faced dealings — "Mumm" is the word — Fruit-sellers — Slate-coloured cats— Oxen drawing waggons — "Imports, exports, and transports" — Valley of Alcantara — The Aqueduct — Diogo Alves, " the inventor " — His end — The Market, Praca da Figueira — " Women always will talk of what runs in their heads " — Fountains — Eye-water — Pog ashore — En route for Cintra — The Palace — "Por Bern" — Philippa ■ — Verses — Hall of Shields — Mafra — Lines of Torres Vedras — Our donkeys — " Facilis descensus"? — Quinta de Monserrate — Cork Convent — Hermit Honorius — Trees, grapes, dogs — Our difficulty with Portugal — " American spoken " ! — On board — Emigrants — Passing the doctor — Dr. Blandford — Rejected — Verses : " Bread cast upon the waters" — "Show him out" — The coats of many colours — Emigrants' nie'nu — The " fiddles " — The meetius of tha waiters — Leaving Lisbon — Verse explained

Chapter II. Lisbon To St

VINCENT. Crossing the bar — A gale — Leaving my old cabin— Leaving my new berth— On the floor — An introduction — A collision avoided— On deck at night— Pog doesn't know me— Shaved ! Shaved !— "Grappling-irons on your night-shirt" — Pog's eye-lotion— The timid man—" The murderer"—" I'm not myself at all"— A human " Zoo," animals fed at 12.30— How the emigrants pass their time— Pog on the trail— Self-hunted— The rambler— The "Hash-slinger" — Small profits and quick returns — Young telegraphist of St. Vincent— Their new pastor— Our Yankee— A oontrast— The two CONTENTS.

XI PAGE 50 " doxies " — " A draw, or a stale mate " — A shrine where all may sacrifice— Mr. Manley — Sir Vivian Bland— Las Palmas, Canary Islands — Our children — Ballooning — Ascents _ Descents — Claret aud water — The water of St. Vincent — Flying-fish : how they live and how they die — Mother Carey's chickens — The tale of the Conway — The Venezuelan Government has its Navy taught naviga tion — The Conway aground — A flying-fish pays us a "flying visit" — Approaching St. Vincent — St. Antonio and "Other lights" — 78° in my cabin — Bird Island light — Washington's Head — The Verde Islands — Himalaya troopship, with Inniskillings aboard — ■ Cape Verde — Climate — Religion — Produce — Famine — Imports — No grass: cricket on cocoanut matting — Island of St. Antonio — Cholera — Island of Fogo — Island of Bravo — Porto Grande — The " City " of Mindella — Its wares — Its foreign Consulates — 90° in the shade — ■ Anchorage — Cricket _ Quarantine — Shell necklaces — Windowless houses — Small-pox, etc. — Division of labour among men and women — Woman's rights — " Gee me penny " — " God's image cut in ebony " — Divers sports — Under our keel — Hand-over-hand swimming — The " cable club " — Cricket match with tho Himalaya (Inniskillings) — The cricket mania — Mrs. " Slip," Mrs. "Long-leg," Dr. " Bat " — The consultation — Good for a " century " — Telling tales out of school ...

Chapter III. St

VINCENT TO PEBNAMBUCO. Leaving the Verde Islands— The "Gulf line"— 86° in my cabin— The puzzle lock — " Mouse-trap in three letters " — Fresh fruits from St. Vincent — Dancing on deck — The band — Somo of the dancers — Oh ! for a Quadrille ! — " The rhythm of unresting feet " — Sunday, 2 a.m. — " Meet me by moonlight alone " — Strange bedfellow — Is it a mermaid, or only a dream? — Various theories — The Portuguese certificate— Hypnotism — Pog's mental abstraction — The result- Moonstruck or drunk from the opening of the port? — No duels allowed on the Clyde on Sundays — " Bull " in your own cabin— Church parade — Service in the saloon — The hymn " St. Alban " — The fo'cas'le chant — Pog's vocal organ — The Yankee in doubt "J.H.S.": Pog explains — The Purser interviewed — Vessel signalling — Our flags — The little Portuguese town astern — Lucifer matches on board — Fire is bad and shipwreck is had, but terror is worse — " Fear nothing but fear " — The Irishman's new boots — North German Lloyd steamer homeward bound from the Plate — The Doldrums — Two thousand five hundred miles from home— " When th» breeze conies before the rain," etc. — Mr. Courtney —Well-digging — Pumping by horse-power — Ostrich farming- Steering the oBtrich — The tarantula — Porpoises — Tropical rain — CONTENTS.

PAGE 72 Measles — Pog's secret preventive — His " eye-water " deserves its name — Visions of coming quarantine — Mill's political economy — The Brazilian and the Portuguese — " Prodigal son " — Pog's "revised version" — "Great fleas have little fleas," etc. — Patriotic songs — Nursery rhymes— Cliques and coteries on board — The Spaniard and the Portuguese compared — "Climate and company:" the Yankee's choice — Heat in Rio — The "Star" razor — A friend in need — " One ' Star ' differeth from another," etc. — A stiff gale — The Chief Officer — Glorious weather — The heat — Advantages of extra first-class cabin — " Crossing the line " — Steaming and sailing — Puny descendants of giant jokes — Seeing the equator — Shark-catching — Liquid glory of Ihe ship's path — A trail of molten gold — " Mr. Cross " — 4 a.m. " The Southern Cross " — Verse : " Here and There" — "Ain't a patch on the Bear" — The "False Cross" — Soliloquy — Pog's little sermon — The " Cross " as a cross — The Chief Officer explains — " The Southern Cross " as a device — I agree with the look-out man — Orion — Sirius — " Sixty billions " — Counting a billion — Sunrise — The King of Day — Water — Passing Fernando de Norhona — Pog demands justice — Making the ghost walk — Pog harangues us re "the murderer" — "To-morrow it will be too late " — The search — " A game of chess shall decide his fate " — "A draw " makes Pog furious — Pernambuco from the ship — Oliqda — Orange groves and palms — Churches — The reef — Bumboats alongside the Clyde — Pineapples, etc. — Emigrants lay in supplies — A frigate-pelican — Ashore — 90° in the shade— Catamarans — Sharks — Duarte Cochlo — "Gate of hell" — "Oh, how beautiful !

" — George Cochlo — Vieira — Baweto — All Pernambuco "is divided into three parts" — Recife. San Antonio, Boa Vista — Building and paving — Refuse — Butcher's shop — Olinda — Jesuit College— "Far Bahia "—My benefactor — Algarrobo trees — Cafe's — Parrots— Naked hoys and girls— Mules— Lottery tickets— The long thumb-nail— Sugar— Alderney oxen — Smells — Fat negresses — Merchants — Transition from Southampton to the tropics — A memento — " Oh, those enterprising Germans ! " " Blue-peter " — Up anchor

Chapter IV. Pernambuco To Bahia

A little joke— "The partners "—Frightened or faithless ?— The fox and the straw— Pernambuco coffee— Cock-crow on board— Sims Reeves in a crate— A death oa board— The crow of ill omen— " A crow's a crow "—The coffin and the Union Jack— Worse news : Small-pox on hoard— Bank Manager, Monte Video— How fortunes are made— £115,000 profit— Coasting to Ba'iia— Catamarans —Counting the revolutions by beats under the foot— Blue waves with white caps— Cape San Antonio— The boilers of the Reliance — Half-a-gale— Itaparica— The Thames twin-sister to our Clyde— CONTENTS. XIII r.ioE 103 116 Basilisk bound for Rio— Anchored— The bay— Panorama on ship board—Tropical vegetation— The sea emerald green— Scents from the shores — View in the bay — Brazilian funeral march — Pratique — The doctors — Dr. Blandford — English, Scotch, Irish— The Company's selection — Small-pox patients go into hospital — Ashore — The Clyde illuminated— Disillusioned — Yellow fever — Victoria — The market — Black women — Fruits — "Navel oranges" — Feather-flowers — Loving monkey — Palanquins — Cathedral, churches — The elevator — Views as you rise — The new town — Hotel Paris — Cruelty to mules — The slopes — Negresses and their escorts — A city full of niggers — Thome da Sousa — San Salvador — Bahia de Todos-os-Santos — Precious stones — "Southern Star" — A diamond worth five millions-and-a-half sterling — Chapel of Ayuda — Father John Martin — Bahiars export trade — Huge trees — Dutch Admiral : his death— Oh, for a bath !— Starting for Rio ...

Chapter V. Bahia To Rio De Janeiro

Left behind — The "murderer " commits suicide for Pog's sake — Pog relents — Lunch off Bahia fruits — The doctor ill — His locum tenens — Captain ill — Many friends — Complete happiness — " The Southern Cross " — Children and kittens — Slumbering giant — Whale : his life-and-death battle with a swordfish and a thresher-shark — True British sportsmen — Brazil and the United States compared — Effect of position on races — Snakes — Pog quotes Moore — " Neat, but diluted" — Brazil: its birds, fruits, and produce — Brazilian negroes : suicides — Emancipation — Whales — "Whales' food : " its odour — Bronchitis : a little sufferer — The " potentate " and the good Samaritan — It is chilly : Cape Frio — Albatross — Approaching Rio — The "Sugar-Loaf" in view — Dolphins attack the vessel — A whale-bird — Rio in sight — Entering the harbour — Botofogo — The gate of Paradise — Corcovado — Tijuca — The Organ Mountains — Petropolis — Nitherohi — Mr. Ringer lands — Ashore — The Market — Rua Direita — La Gloria — Rua do Ouvidor — White's Hotel, Tijuca — Sunset — "The ribbon of the rainbow " — Rio illuminated — 111° in the shade — An unbroken garden — Negroes — Yellow fever and its victims — Oases — Natural beauties — Botofogo bay — The Avenue of Palms — Botanical Gardens — Their ideal position — Anti-c'imax— Unpeopled delights — "The cooks !

": — The fatal sun — " Palmam qui meruit ferat" — Butterflies — A lizard — A dish of snails and oysters — A huge cockroach — Drainage — A sewage b.ith — Aboard once more — Verses from Tijuca Peak ... CONTENTS. PACK 139

Chapter VI. Rio De Janeiro To Buenos Aires

Leaving Rio — Vacant tables — How to drain Rio — Captain and Doctor still ill — H.M.S. Cleopatra on her way to Rio to salute the new flag of the Republic — A Pampero threatens — A cyclone in the Japan seas— Half-a-gale — Liverish Yankee — Another, on enterprise— " Leaping the reef" — " There's no good in exaggeration " — A cabin to myself — A ship's kitten performs — My birthday : where am I? — The Doctor and Chief Engineer ; " Ah, Ritchie, ah ! " — Getting cooler — 52° — "Pitch and toss " — Arranging a concert — Description of a Pampero — Pog's opinion — A narrow escape — Dissective criticism—Lost in a cloud of words — " Captain Cuttle " — The Paris of tbe Brazils — The Clyde dances a hornpipe — Preparations for a concert — The performance — '• The collection will now be made " — "Munty Viddy" — "A second -Singapore " — View of the city from the Clyde — Pratique doubtful — A Captain gets quarantine for being in a hurry — Corbinas — A great gulf fixed — Launches — The Aconcagua — Petty, the Plate pilot — Quarantined ! — Yellow fever — Flores — Our steam launch ! — View of the Lazaretto — Farewell, forlorn friends! — Unloading bananas — A leap for life — The boatdavits — Monte Video : a sunset — Pog's last yarn : he proves himself a Solomon — The watch and its owners — Pog's farewell: a toast — Petty on political economy — Trade-unionism — Petty's factotum — A union advocate — Borracho ! Gringo ! — " On the word of an Englishman" — I should like an answer

Chapter VII. Buenos Aires, Rosario De Santa Fe, La Plata, Etc

Rio de la Plata — The Uruguay, Paraguay, and Parana — Villa Longa Company — Going ashore — Wrecks ! Wrecks ! Wrecks ! — - Twenty thousand victims of yellow fever — the Stirling Castle — Passing the Custom-House — Our hotel — " The Residents and Strangers' Club" — The Argentine Republic — Population: territory, government, army — First impressions of Buenos Aires — Its formation — Houses — " Ave Maria ! " — Light — Hotch-potch architecture — Horses — Plazas — Plaza Victoria — The ex-President — The Exchange — The " tuppenny ha'penny" dollar — The Cathedral General Saint Martin — The Recoleta — Calle Florida — Extract from local guide book — The Catholic Cemetery — " Assassinated by his friends " — Don Manuel Rosas, the tyrant President, a gaucho The gaucho described — Sketch of Rosas' life — Trams, mules, horses — Odd horse and lasso-boy — Tram horn — Tram routes Avenida Alvear — Palermo — Avenida — Sarmiento — The Corso Palace of Rosas—" 3 de Febrero " Park—" The Zoo " — The Prome- CONTENTS.

XV PAGE 163 nade — Fire-flies — Belgrano, etc. — Quintas — Plaza General Lavalle — Plaza Libertad — Plaza Once de Septembre — Plaza Constitucion — Clubs : social, boating, cricket, etc. — Philanthropic institutions — British Journals — Milk-carrier — Churning — Clockmaker's shop : earthquake effect on — The chief scene of the revolution of July, 1890 — Some statistics — My memento, a bullet — The police and the commissaries — Anecdotes of the police, showing how they live — How they die — " If you want to pass tbe time, Shoot a p'liceman 1 " — An ugly butcher's bill — The true story of the revolution (from an eye-witness) — How and when it was hatched — The signal — The arrests — Peace without honour — Fluctuations in the value of gold — Fighting in the Exchange — Revolution averted — How the ups and downs of gold work — Failure of Baring Brothers — On credit — The Spaniard and the Portuguese : a contrast — Paper currency, the germ of dishonesty — Railway tricks — Restaurant tricks — Infection currency — Oh, Mr. Goschen ! — Curious cure for headache — Dress in Buenos Aires — The toilet of a native dandy — ■ The mosquito — How to use the curtains — A midnight serenade — What is good for mosquitoes — What is better — " There is a brotherly bond among us English " — The Central Market : a sad reminiscence — Verses : " If in my cup of life I meet " — Clocks !

Clocks ! Clocks ! — I catch infection in a church — A tropical smell — The hotel cock : his last crow — Greenwich time — Delicacies — No stoves — Grandeur of the evening skies — Drought for three months — Effects on the Pampas — Insect noises — The heat : one that didn't feel it — Trip to Tigre — Ranchos — Hotel — Fire-flies — An English family — A dream of the Thames : only a dream — Woman and tobacco or vice versa — Rosario de Santa Fe' — La Plata — Born an adult — The Argentine lost to us — Neglected by the United States — Statistics — The price of horseflesh — Delicate ground ...

Chapter VIII. Buenos Aires To Rio De Janeiro

Once more on board — Disgraceful behaviour — Former experiences — Smuggling — " The maids of Llangollen " — Monte Video — Captain Musgrave — Ashore in Uruguay — Historical — The Bolsa — Tomb of General Flores— Church of the Immaculate Conception— The heroes of Paysandu— The bull-ring: doomed— Banda Oriental — The President— Statistics— Mr. Evans: his park (Prado)— Trams, waggons, butchers' shops, milk-carriers — Gold — Tlie shifty dollar- Mementoes — Mr. Turner — More delicate ground — Farewell, Monte Video— Excitement : its effects— All things in common— At Ritchie's side again— My health restored — Our numbers— Excuses for champagne— Shipmates— An apology in advance— "I told you so "—The nail-maker— How to see San Paulo— The " Southern b CONTENTS. XVI PAGE 215 245 Cross "—Rough weather— Gaining time—" The brink of revolution "—An English lady, re the boats, railway travelling, etc.— Clyde v. The G. S. N. Company— My own experience—" Drunkards' Corner" — A former occupant, and the present one — A sketch — Santos : San Paulo— Tapioca— San Paulo to Rio, by rail — Vine the vigorous — "Apply to my executors" — Fire-stations drill — Boat drill — Heroes handing potatoes — Brazilian frigate — Emigrants out-going and home-coming— Portuguese bathers— Ritchie and a third engineer — The Monedas, or money-dance — Dumb motions — The knife-grinder : a mistake

Chapter IX. Rio De Janeiro To Bahia

The "Sugar Loaf" — Jerked beef — Anchored at Rio — Ashore — The Tribuna newspaper — Offices attacked — Corcovado railway — Ascending the Mountain — A nerve-testing experience — Sunset from the top — The Paneiras hotel near the top — Colonel Alexandre — The assault on the Tribuna — The President —The ex-Emperor — His simplicity — The Republic : elements of instability — Evening on Corcovado : sunrise, from the top — Rio, bay, mouutains, islands, sea — Ferns and orchids — Farewell to Rio — Verses, " Pro's and Con's" — Amenities — Tarantulas — Snakes — Effect of rapid transitions — Risks — Chess — The smuggler — "Anemptydog" — "Archentina " — " Karing Cross " — Ship's lights — Delayed — Whale alongside — Bashful woman — Women of the fin-de-siecle guild — Reverting to Rio — Colonel Alexandre and Sir Vivian Bland — Incident of the Argentine revolution, to be taken "with salt" — Ultimatum of combined fleets — Bahia revisited — Feast days : bells and crackers — " Not Bahia at all "

Chapter X. Bahia To St

VINCENT. Experiences going ashore and returning — Arithmetic — Tropical rain Ferns— A fiend marmoset— " Half dog, half bear "—Robbed and cautioned—" The Tiger of the Plains "— Sub judice— Quiroga's "Ordeal by twig"— The "Southern Cross" 4 a.m.— 86° in°my cabin : 80° on deck — Coasting — Pernambuco — Bumboats : Monkeys, parrots, fruits— Commerce by bag— Parrots that never die, except "by proxy"— My parrot—" The German piping bullfinch " —Parrots and a marmoset— Alas ! No pineapples !— The electric light— The Clyde's first shark—" A little tea-party "—Kitten and monkey— Plucky little imp— "True and False crosses"— The imp CONTENTS. XVII PAGE 271 308 eats tartar emetic : his jump — " Jacko," the Doctor's monkey : Shaving, drinking, the "blue-ribbon," death— Fernando de Norhona —Indian catamarans— The Liguria : catch, pass, and win— Cold- Crossing the line— Clark, Ritchie's black servant— Our tricks- Sunday school— My notes— A dying Portuguese— Poetic justice- Rio prawns— Our Singer and Yarner— My visa-vis : "now," and "then" — Character sketch — Elephant and partridge— Sunrise : cogitations— The sun's "cocktail"— 5.30 a.m. twice— Death of the Portuguese : his burial at sea— Serious accident : two falls— Lovely weather— From flowers to overcoats— The actress' bouquet and its poetry — The Captain — Easy shaving: "Uruguayan soap," verses — Introspection—" Spare time : " notes—" A detective "— " Whether what everybody says is true " — The lover and the policeman : verses— The Pacific S.S. Portisea—" Drawing the line "—My parrot in danger — " Self-possession "—Saved 1— Needless anxiety, illustrated — " Let me out !

" — " Stone walls do not a prison make," etc. —St. Vincent— Divers— Under the Clyde in 28 seconds— A quarrel —Two English third-class passengers more trouble than a thousand Portuguese — Insolence — Lines on " A Nobodee "

Chapter XI. St

VINCENT TO LISBON. Washington's Head — Sunset — Coaling — Temperature varying — Infectious vivacity — Farewell, Reckitt's blue — The sun and I : a breach prevented — The weather — Chloroforming a parrot — Grumblers at dinner — How to feed on board wisely — Perfect weather — Marmosets dead — Rainbows in the spray — " Honest quaker " — Monkeys : love at first sight — The parting — Sunrise off Las Palmas — Teneriffe — ■ Cold and hot — My parrot " Che " — Sapodillas — " Slowing-down " to kill time — Tempting offers — Keeping faith with the public — Christmas : hopes and fears — Sunday, the choir, the hymn — A " St. Bernard " puppy : the moral applied — The " Angel Choir " and their guardian — Elderly lady and her air-cushion : a model Captain — The Duke and the toad — " Little things " — Obliging officers — Schooner and " cocktail " — Porpoises — Lisbon — Overcoats ■ — Parrots dying by dozens — Not quarantined : a surprise — " Touching Europe " — Ritchie's sword — No nautiluses — Confusion of the Seasons — The Portuguese Englishman — Neighbours — Deaf mute...