The United States and Canada, in 1832, 1833, and 1834

Chapter I

Departure from England — Storm during the Voyage — A fine day on the Ocean — The 4th of July — Yankee Doodle — - First sight of Land — Dressing for Landing — A News-boat — Unexpected News — The Pilot — Entrance to New York — Manhatta — New Amsterdam, or New York — Indians . 1

Chapter II

The Battery — Negroes — Broadway — City Hall — Private Houses — Hotels — Boarding -Houses — Manners and Customs — Population — The Hudson — Hohoken — Cholera in New York — Neglect of Cleanliness — Pigs in the Streets . 26

Chapter III

Steamboats — The North American Steamer — Voyage on the Hudson River — Passengers — Attention to Females — CONTENTS. Banks of the Hudson — The Palisades — Sleepy Hollow — The Highlands — A Thunder Storm . . . . 46

Chapter IV

Westpoint — Military School — Journey to Catskill — Stage Coaches — Pine Orchard — The Cascades — Remarkable Tree — Rattlesnakes — The Rattlesnake Hunter — Athens . . 60

Chapter V

New Lebanon Springs — Shakers — Ann Lee — Ceremonies of the Shakers — A Modern Miracle — Creed, Rules, and Regu lations, of the Shakers — Their Occupations — Schools — Costume — The Shakers' Meeting — Tobacco Smoking Festival — A New Messiah . . . . . . . 83

Chapter VI

Journey to Northampton — Soil and Agriculture — Character of the Country — General Appearance of Comfort — Anecdote — Northampton — Villages and Towns in America — Mount Holyoke — Hadley — The Regicides — Springfield — Manufactory of Arms — Comfortable Situation of the Workmen — The Locksmith of Springfield — Journey to Boston — Ware — Worcester ........ 108

Chapter VII

Boston — The Harbour — Public and Private Buildings — The Streets — The Statehouse — Statue of Washington — Neglected Public AA'alk — Music in the Evening — Faneuil Hall — The Market — Post Office — Banks — Athenæum- — The Freemasons' Lodge — American Architecture — Temperance Societies — CONTENTS. V Strong Liquors — Crimes frorn Intemperance — Anecdote — Serenades — Cholera — Panic — Cholera Hospital — Relief Association . . . . . . . 129

Chapter VIII

Public Institutions in Boston — The Peace Society — State of Education — Religion — Different Religious Sects — Baptists — Missionaries — Unitarians . . . . . 157

Chapter IX

Charlestown — Navy Yard — The Constitution Frigate — Breed's Hill and Bunker's Hill — Monument on Bunker's Hill — Lynn — Salem — Beverley — Newbury Port — -New Hamp shire — Portsmouth — Maine — Breakneck Hill — Curiosity — Female Heroism — Portland — Soil in Maine — Emigrants — Agriculture — Produce — Wages — A Husking Feast . 180

Chapter X

Return to Boston — Environs — Jamaica Pond — Mount Auburn — Cambridge College — John Quincy Adams — Nahant — Balls — Sea Serpent — Cattle Fair at Brighton — A Storm in Boston — Various Uses of Hats — Pawtucket — Providence — Mount Hope — King Philip — Journey to New York — Hell Gate 209

CHAPTER XL

New York after the Cholera — Brooklyn — Navy Yard — American Navy — Naval Officers — Patterson — Passaic Falls — American Institute and Annual Exhibition of Manufactures — Negro School — The American System of Education — School Agents' Society — American Bible Society . . 230 CONTENTS. VI

Chapter XII

Journey to Philadelphia — Philadelphia — Schuylkill Coal — Literary Societies — Benevolent Institutions — Sunday Schools Association — Pennsylvania Hospital — House of Refuge — Banks — The Mint — Museum — Mammoth — State House 251

Chapter XIII

Environs of Philadelphia — Waterworks — Franklin's Tomb — Navy Yard — Election of President — Ancient Swedish Colonv — Swedish Church ..... 275

Chapter XIV

Baltimore — The Cathedral — Monuments — Charles Carroll — His Death and Funeral — Population of the City — Religion — Slaves and free Servants — Articles of Exportation — Journey to Washington — AVashington — Departure for Virginia — District of Columbia — Potomac River — Fort Washington — - Fredericksburgh — Roads in the Southern States — Journey to Richmond ........ 295

Chapter XV

Richmond — Public Buildings — Monument for the Persons who perished in the Theatre — Slave Auction — Condition of Slaves in the United States — Dangers attached to an im mediate Emancipation — Advantages of the Colonization System 318

Chapter XVI

Tobacco Manufactory at Richmond — Departure for Norfolk — Norfolk — The Dismal Swamp — Journey to Fayetteville — CONTEN iS. VII The Cotton Plant — Fayetteville — Journey to Charleston — Rattlesnakes 353

Chapter XVII

Charleston — Monument to the Memory of Walter Scott — General Hayne — Nullification, its object, progress, and termination 379

Chapter XVIII

Departure for Savannah — Beaufort — Female Slave — Palmetto — Fort constructed of Oyster Shells — Savannah — Journey to Augusta — Augusta — Hamburgh — Casualties at tendant on Travelling in the South — Journey to Macon— Land Lottery — Macon — A Negro Shopkeeper — Journey to Columbus — A Gang of Slaves— A Creek Indian . . . THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA, IN 1832, 1833, AND 1834.

Chapter I

The temporary absence of worldly scenes and employments produces a state of mind peculiarly fitted to receive new and vivid impressions, The vast space of water that separates the hemi spheres is like a blank page in existence. There is no gradual tran sition by which, as in Europe, the features and population of one country" blend almost imperceptibly with those of another. From the moment you lose sight of the land you have left, all is vacancy, until vou step on the opposite shore, and are launched at once into the bustle and novelties of another world. AV*ASHINGT0N IRVING. The southern coast of beautiful England insensibly disappeared before my eyes : from the deck of the American packet, I tried in vain to get a last glimpse of the British Isles. The mantle of night enveloped in obscurity the verdant hills of CornAvall.

Adieu to Europe. VOL. I. u EMIGRANTS. Our complement on board consisted of two hundred individuals from almost every coun try in Europe, besides Americans. Among the English and Irish, there was a large pro portion of emigrants, who with wives, children, and servants, quitted their native soil, to seek in distant climes a spot, where taxes of a thousand different kinds and denominations might not absorb their little all. When the Avhole group assembled on deck, it was a truly interesting scene : the bustle of some, who constantly moved about, instilled spirit in others, apparently inclined to despondency. Yes, many were certainly dejected. They left behind, country, friends, relatives ; and who could venture to predict whether they would ever see either again, or tread the shore Avhich contained the ashes of their fore fathers, and recalled to their minds so many endearing recollections ?

The uniformity of a sea-life generally en genders melancholy ; the monotony is insup portable : there is no diversity, except in the state of the atmosphere. Whichever way the eye turns, and surveys the circled horizon, no other object is visible but frothing waves, apparently rolling from one side of the blue sky to the other. If a sail heaves OCCUPATIONS ON BOARD. in sight at a distance, the event may be compared to a messenger sent from another world. In an instant, the whole deck is covered with people, anxious to behold the strange ship : every spy-glass is put in requisition. But, in our case, curiosity was not satisfied with a bare view of her filled canvass ; speculation followed as to the identity of her flag, Avhence she came, and whither bound. Similar rencontres too often produced violent altercations among indivi duals of so many different nations, some of whom pretended to be Aviser than their neighbours ; but they Avere soon quelled, every one returning to his uniform occupation of con templating the agitated sea — alternately raising or lowering our little republic — of counting the large shoals of porpoises Avhich faithfully accompanied the ship the Avhole voyage, or surveying the unchangeable horizon and the swift passing clouds.

How often, whilst meditating on the beauty of the immea surable heavenly arch, have I not fancied I saw a distant shore rising from the deep : the joy, alas ! was short-lived : 'twas but a cloud. One evening, when the moon shone forth in all her splendour, the whole company assem bled on deck. Glees and songs, variously B A STORM. executed, formed the amusement : every one appeared happy and contented. It was late before retreat to rest was thought of; melo dious sounds, but recently heard above, Avere now re-echoed from the births below. Before daylight, however, these charming dreams were suddenly converted into gloom. A dreadful storm greeted the convivial com panions at break of day. The first glimpse at an enraged element is truly terrific. From a smooth surface — as it had been the preceding night — the sea had risen mountain high ; the tops of the waves \v*ere as cream-white as the snow-co\*ered Mont Blanc.

In the midst of them, our ship was seen dancing, sometimes defying their power, in turn vigorously repulsed by offended masses of Avater — then hidden between two sea-walls, nearly as elevated as the main mast — and again almost immersed in the immense deep. The Avinds — those proud aristocrats of the ocean — Avhistled in the air, and, with the aid of the rigging, performed a most discordant concert. All the passengers were dejected : paleness overspread the fea tures of the women : silent in a corner, with palpitating hearts, they listened to the roar of the tempest and the waves. Children, seized ITS EFFECTS. with fear, clung to their parents, and screamed piteously. Probably, there was no real dan ger ; but a gale in the midst of the ocean is, after all, no joking matter. None, except a person Avho has actually witnessed a similar scene, can form an idea of the creaking, roaring, and rolling, Avhich incessantly tormented us during four-and-twenty endless hours.

The ship rolled the Avhole time from side to side; and, Avhenever she changed position, her timbers creaked as Avhen Enceladus turns himself under the weight of Mount Etna. Trunks, carpet-bags, dressing-cases, and desks, were displaced and knocked against each other each time she hove about. Woe to him who happened to be in their way ! Another inconvenience occurred Avhen dinner was announced, which, however, partook a good deal of the ludicrous : the guests "were every moment exposed to the danger of receiving in their laps joints of beef and mutton, ducks, hams, potatoes, &c. It was not easy to refrain from laughing on seeing the restless dishes changing situation every instant, sometimes at the top, then at the bottom of the table, and again disappearing altogether under it. But, dinner concluded, mirth also took leave of the company : the A RESTLESS NIGHT. storm continued with unabated violence, and gloom once more took possession of all of us.

Night came on. None would retire to rest. Around a dismal lamp — sole luminary in the lonely cabin — assembled a group of passengers ; who, by way of pastime, related a variety of anecdotes, clearly showing what sub ject was uppermost in their minds : they all had reference to shipwrecks. At sea, tales of this description may be compared to ghost stories on shore, for no one ever heard of ghosts on board a ship — probably from an tipathy to the watery element. Morning soon broke in upon our company — still excited by the recitals of the preceding night. The sunbeams, spread over the sur face of the sea, gradually dispersed the clouds, and seemed to insinuate to the Avinds their wrath at the continuance of the storm. Prostrate lay the toAvering waves — on the smooth surface played the sun — the ship Avas stationary — her canvass, drooping and heavy, clung to the masts ; the exhausted tars betook themselves to rest : in dancing groups ap peared multitudes of fish, and in their centre stretched forth a monstrous whale, desirous to behold the majesty of light.

Aloft, in cir cles round the masts, harmonious concerts ANNIVERSARY OF JULY 4. Avere performed by aquatic birds. The day was fine : every thing appeared to have ac quired new life. No comparison can be drawn between a beautiful day at sea and one on shore : there is something so delightful and reviving in the former, that its influence is irresistible. The 4th of July was just one of this description. Who is the American that does not rejoice at the recollection of Avhat occurred on that clay, 1776 ? Who is ignorant of the memorable act then signed by the boldest men in the colonies ? Who has forgotten the determined step adopted by these patriots to declare themselves free and independent, in defiance of the power and fleets of the Mother Country. An American is justly proud of the result of this revolution, Avhen comparing the past Avith the present.

The anniversary, however, is associated with so many interesting events, that it is invariably celebrated Avith great solemnity. Wherever an American happens to be on that day, whether in the midst of the ocean, or in the forests of the Western Country, the 4th of July must be observed. Our packet, as I have before observed, Avas American : the captain therefore made the necessary arrangements for its celebration. At sun-rise the ANNIVERSARY OF JULY 1. passengers were awoke by the firing of twenty four guns — being one for every State in the Republic. The handsome American flag, now waving in every sea, and admired in all parts of the globe, was hoisted with demonstra tions of joy. The numerous stars seemed delighted at the roar of the cannon, while the sunbeams gave them a light red die, approaching to nature.

All the Americans on board hastened on deck as soon as the first gun had been fired : the fineness of the morning, added to the remembrance of former times, made them feel a degree of ecstasy, which soon communicated itself to the strangers on board. Every one recollected some noble deed, some heroic action, performed during the national contest for liberty ; and all emulated to raise to the skies America's beau-ideal — Washington. By this time, the whole company had as sembled on deck, listening to the speakers. Among the steerage passengers, there was a short, thick-set man, almost seized Avith deli rium on hearing recorded many acts of valour and intrepidity attached to the names of a number of revolutionary men. Long did he try to suppress his feelings : he touched his hat, or turned upon his heel, with a view to YANKEE BOODLE. 9 check his emotions ; but, when one of the orators happened to mention the words — Inde pendence, Equality, and Liberty, he had no more command over himself : he vociferated " Yankee Doodle."

This national song is, properly speaking, an old Italian melody : obsolete or forgotten in the Old World, it all at once got in vogue in the New, and has in later times become so popular that there is hardly a child Avho cannot hum it. When sung by several persons, any one may put whatever Avords he pleases to the music ; by this means, many ludicrous and appropriate, and some very indifferent and vulgar, verses are introduced ; but, either way, they are always approved by the company, which, to signify its acquiescence, repeats the two last verses. Upon the present occasion, no indi vidual ventured to give an impromptu : the old words, in praise of Washington, Franklin, Liberty, Equality, &.c. were preserved. Hilarity presided at dinner. Of toasts and speeches there Avas an ample supply. One of the latter, in particular, was an eulogium on the President of the United States.

Toasts were also given in honour of the respective sovereigns of Sweden, France, and England. The entertainment concluded with a general HILARITY ON BOARD. dance on deck, composed of old and young, poor and rich, love-sick and sea-sick, sober and drunk ; in short, of nearly two hundred persons. The band consisted of four inebri ated individuals, Avith their hats cocked up on one side. The violins were certainly not of the Cremonese fabric ; they appeared to have Aveathered many a gale, and Avould unquestionably have baffled even Paganini's skill. Their inefficiency, however, did not interrupt the conviviality for a moment, the performers beating time so loud as nearly to drown the music. The dancers, too, were so animated, that harmony was almost unnecessary. A couple of corpulent Irishmen, especially, continued dancing long after the music had ceased, as if it required a certain time to stop their evo lutions when once put in motion.

One of them, whose capers were truly dangerous to the bystanders, on being informed that the music had ceased, and that dancing was con sequently over, answered very laconically, "What about music ?" and proceeded to twist about his fair damsel for at least ten minutes, to the great hazard and danger of the sur rounding party, every moment exposed to a summerset into the sea. No accident, how ever, happened ; and, when dancing had been LAND IN SIGHT. kept up to a late hour, in the midst of the finest moonlight the company retired, apparently delighted with the amusements of the day. At length, on the 9th of July, in the fore noon, I heard the magic sound, " Land !" pronounced from the top of the mast-head by a sailor, sent on the look-out by the captain, who was as anxious as any passenger to set foot on terra fir ma, after a voyage of thirty nine days.

The joyful intelligence passed from mouth to mouth, with the rapidity of lightning, until every one on board had repeated — " Land!" Every eye sparkled with joy. Fancy already landed the whole company on the American shore ; they thought they saw trees, houses, fields, and cities. The men began to talk about good hits and specula tions ; the elderly women about housekeeping ; the girls blushed at the idea of being so near their lovers ! The young men formed a thousand projects of amusement by way of indem nity for privations endured during a long and tedious voyage. All Avere in a most happy state of mind ; even those who had experienced the effects of sea-sickness, and had been quite indifferent as to the future, now raised their heads, and hurried, like the rest, to put their things in order, adjust their toi- DRESSING FOR LANDING. lette, and indulge in a promenade on deck, for the benefit of fresh air.

Bustle and confusion were every where visible. None would be behind-hand in dress ; costumes, which, for more than a month past, had enjoyed uninterrupted tranquillity in carefully packed trunks, were now sported. Bond Street hats saw light again, and were substituted for the few remaining caps, many of these having deserted their owners during the late gale, to take a view of the coast of Labrador or Nova Scotia. One of the passengers, and his family in particular, had, in the course of ten minutes, undergone so perfect a metamorphosis, that it Avas next to impossible to recognize either him, his wife, or two little children, to whom we were greatly indebted for infantine concerts all the time we were at sea. The husband appeared in a new snuff-coloured frock-coat, a sugar-loaf hat, and a neatly-plaited frill, which, however, upon closer examination, turned out to form a mere exterior appendix to a very dirty shirt ; laced Avristbands covered his fingers, in part adorned with rings, and a fashionable cane in the right hand completed the tout ensemble.

The attire of the lady was proportionably elegant : she eclipsed all that DRESSING FOR LANDING. approached her. Her costly Parisian bonnet had nevertheless met with a sad accident, which not only damped her spirits most sen sibly, but called forth a shower of abuse, and a succession of oaths on the part of the disappointed husband. A clumsy sailor had unfortunately thrust his foot through the bandbox which contained the treasure, and, by the pressure, so completely discomfited shape and plumary ornaments that no traces of its original beauty could be distinguished. Recourse was had to repairs ; or, to use a sea phrase, to jury-masts ; but, such Avas the demolition produced, that the impression of the sailor's foot could never be effectually removed ; the bonnet, after all, preserved the appearance of an old ruin, to the great morti fication of the fair owner.

Straw-coloured kid gloves covered a pair of blood-red hands, and transparent silk stockings decorated a couple of feet of uncommon size. Thus attired, the handsome couple took shelter under a large umbrella — for the rain fell in torrents — consulting how they were to spend the evening. The husband proposed a walk in Broadway, as the most fashionable place of resort ; but this was overruled by the lady, who insisted on going to the play. A NEWS-BOAT. Whilst the party were thus discussing the point, the other passengers had already made up their minds as to the mode of celebrating their landing on the American soil. Some flattered their palates with the prospect of fresh vegetables, particularly new green peas ; others were exclusively bent on strawberries and pineapples. Two young Americans made a long harangue on the superior fla vour of American apples.

In the midst of these important deliberations, our packet was hailed by one of those fine fast-sailing boats belonging to the neAvspaper establishments in New York, which, in spite of the worst possible weather, invariably put to sea to meet the European packets, for the purpose of getting the earliest intelligence. We were all anxious to get a sight of the first American ; and, although much occupied with plans for the evening, could not refrain from gathering round the messenger the moment he put his foot on deck. The captain shook him heartily by the hand, gave him the London jour nals, and asked, with a kind of nonchalance, " Every thing is Avell in this part of the world, I suppose ?" " No, quite the contrary," answered the boatman, casting a look Avhich paralysed us all. THE CHOLERA. 15 " What is then the matter ?" exclaimed the captain, struck with amazement, and impa tient.

" Is New York in flames — or is the President dead ?" " The cholera is among us, and causes the most dreadful havock," was the answer. " What ! cholera in America !" uttered every one, and the paleness of death spread over countenances but lately tinged with the colour of the rose. Looks were exchanged, as if to derive consolation from one another ; half sentences were muttered by some on the nature of the disease ; others expressed sur prise how it could possibly have crossed the Atlantic, and cursed their unlucky star for having deceived their expectations. Adieu theatre, pleasures, promenade in Broadway, vegetables, green peas, and high-flavoured apples ! The packet, however, neared the shore, until every object was perfectly discernible ; a little country church and Sandy Hook Light house were clearly visible to the naked eye.

We now took the pilot on board. An original like him I had seen in no country in Europe. Once on board, he moved fore and aft with the rapidity of lightning, from larboard to star board ; then, climbing up the rigging and the THE PILOT. gangways, commanded aloud, and in a tone of voice indicating his own self-importance. It appeared impossible for him to be quiet a single moment. " Quiet to quick bosoms is a hell," says Lord Byron very justly. He might be compared to a perpetuum mobile : every thing that stood in his way was kicked about. Respect for the fair sex was entirely out of the question : Duty above all was his motto ; and to this he strictly adhered. His exterior was a true personification of his character. His brown summer trowsers, by being too often ingulphed in the washing-tub, had shrunk to such a size that the knees filled the space allotted to the calves ; these were, in turn, covered by a pair of white and blue stockings.

Many were the button vacancies in his sky-blue coat ; and the knot of a coloured neckhandkerchief had fixed its abode on one of his ears. His brown hat also had received so many knocks, that its appearance resembled that of agitated waves. The whole personage presented a singular coup d'œil. But, if the exterior denoted his character, so did also his countenance. None was ever more striking. It has been con tended that the soul of man is pictured on his forehead — that the eyes are spectacles for BAY OF NEAV YORK. him Avho chooses to read the heart. In him this proved correct. The first aspect con vinced us Avhat a little d — 1 we had got on board (this was the title given him by the sailors) ; and his figure, I am well satisfied, is still fresh in the memory of many of the pas sengers. We were now close in shore, passing a sound called " The Narrows," a mile in breadth.

Inside this, a most beautiful bay opened to our view, intersected by several islands, amongst which was Governor's Is land, with a kind of Martello tower on it, built of brick. This bay, formed on one side by the New Jersey shore, and on the other by Long Island, is about twenty miles in circumference, and every where so deep that the largest ship can ride at anchor. At a distance appeared a point with a small castle on it, surrounded by trees planted with great regularity and taste ; and, behind, steeples rose in infinite number. This was the city of New York- On the left of Castle Garden, the beautiful Hudson showed itself; and on the right flowed the East River, properly speaking an arm of the sea, dividing the city from Long Island. Thousands of ships, steamers, and boats, passed each other in various directions; vol. i. c NEW YORK. and flags of Europe and America waved peaceably together.

Country seats and trees covered the opposite shores ; the verdant foliage charmed our eyes, not yet accustomed to this novel sight. The scene was truly magnificent, and can only be justly appre ciated by those who, having been long at sea, suddenly enter a beautiful port. " The temporary absence of Avorldly scenes and employments," says Washington Irving, " produces a state of mind peculiarly fitted to receive new and vivid impressions."* It is probable, had we landed at another place at first, and only gradually been prepared for the beauties of the port of New York, we should not have enjoyed it so much. Certain it is, however, that the entrance to it, the extensive bay that opens to the view, and the two magnificent rivers that present themselves to the right and left, form a coup d'œil which can barely be matched in the whole Avorld.

When I surveyed this fine scene, and the city surrounded by water, I could easily conceive the admiration with which honest Hudson must have been struck when he beheld these natural beauties for the first time. Juet, his travelling companion, * The Sketch Book. INDIAN TRADITIONS. 19 called the island on which New York is situated Manna-hata, Avhich means the island of manna — in other Avords, a country Avhere milk and honey flow.* And an old Indian tradition furnishes another proof how, in the remotest times, these parts were admired. " The name Manhattoes is said to be derived from the great Indian god Manetho, who is stated to have made this island his favourite place of residence, on account of its peculiar attractions. Indian traditions say further, that the bay was formerly a large lake, filled Avith silver and gold fish, in the middle of which was this fine island, abounding in every species of fruit and flowers ; but that a sudden inundation of the River Hudson destroyed every vestige of these beauties, and that Manetho fled in consequence behind the extensive Avaters of Ontario."!

To me it appears, therefore, not unlikely that the first Europeans — a handful of Dutchmen — who, a feAv years after Hudson's return to Holland, set sail in the celebrated bark, Goede Vrouw, under the particular protection of St. Nicholas, should settle in this neighbourhood, and found a city, where, for a period of fifty years, they enjoyed all the advantages of a real old- Knickerbocker's New York, v. i t Ibid. C PEOPLE OF NEW AMSTERDAM. fashioned Dutch life. The immortal Knicker bocker gives an account of the situation of New Amsterdam, the name of the city at that time, in the following manner : — " It was fortunate for New Amsterdam that the words learning*, education, taste, and talents, were perfectly unknown there : a genius was a strange animal, and a learned woman would have been as great a piece of curiosity as a frog with horns, or a burning dragon.

None, in fact, knew more than his neighbour, nor did any body wish to knoAV more than an honest man ought to know, who attends only to his own business : the clergyman and the notary were the only two who knew how to write, and the Avise Governor Twiller always signed his name with a X- The houses were of wood, and the large gate only opened upon the occasion of some mar riages, funerals, new-year's days, St. Nicholas' day, or other great festivities. The families lived in the kitchen. The fireplace was of real aristocratic size, where all the members of the household, old and young, master and servant, black and white, even cat and clog, partook of the general privilege, and had a corner allotted to themselves. Here sat the old burgher, for hours together, in deep me- PEOPLE OF NEW AMSTERDAM. ditation, smoking his pipe, and looking at the fire with half-closed eyes, without thinking of any thing.