Voyages and Travels to India, Ceylon, the Red Sea, Abyssinia, and Egypt. 1802, 1803, 1804, 1805 and 1806

Chapter I

Motives for Voyage to the Red Sea. — Departure from Mangalore. — Cape Guardafui. — Cape Aden. — Passage through the Straits of Bab-el-mandeb. — Arrival at Mocha. — Reception there. — Departure for the African Coast. — Ras Beiloul. — Island of Rackmah. — Saiel Abaiel. — Amphila. — Howakel.- — Mis^ras. — Island of Valentia. — Arrival at the Island of Dhalac. — Visit to the Dola.— Mr. Salt's Journey to Dhalac-el-Kibeer. — Departure for Massowah. — Arrival there. page 1

Chapter II

Arrival at Massowah. — Reception there. — Public Visit to the Nayib. — Private Visit to the Nayib. — Conversation with him. — Preparations for the continuation of the Voyage. — Disputes with the Captain of the Antelope, and consequent determination to return to Mocha. — Transactions at Massowah, and price of articles there. — Visit to the Island of Valentia. — Return to Mocha. — Desertions from the Ship. — Encouragement given by the Arab Government to European Seamen to become Mussulmauns. — Departure of Mr. Salt for India in the Antelope. — Voyage in the Fox Frigate to Aden. — Transactions there. — Return to Mocha. — Transactions there. — Voyage to Bombay. - - - - - p. 45

Chapter III

Residence at Bombay. — Departure for Poonah. — Harbour of Bombay. — Panwell. — Campaly. — Tillegam. — Reception by a Deputation from his Highness the Paishwa. — Arrival at the British Residency near Poonah. — Account of the Dusserah. — Visit to the Paishwa — Visit returned. — Dreadful Famine. — Dinner at the Paishwa's country house. — Dinner given by the Dewan ofthe Empire.— Paishwa's Character. — Political Observations on the Mahratta Empire. - - - p. CONTENTS. II

Chapter IV

Departure from Poonah.— Arrival at Chinchoor.— Visit to a supposed Incarnation of Gunputty. — History of the Founder of his Family. — Visit to the Rajah of Tillegam. — Account of the excavated Pagodas at Carli. — Visit to the Hill Fort of Low Ghur. — Visit to the Widow of Nana Furnese. — Return to Bombay. — Observations on Bombay. — Fortifications — Town — Dock-yards — Marine — Trade. — Insalubrity of Climate. — Country Residences in the Vicinity. — Manner of living. — Establishment of the Bombay Literary Society. — Evils attendant on the cheapness of spirits. — Character of the Persees. — Embassies to Persia. — Visit to the Pagodas at Salsette and Elephanta. - - - - - - p. 149

Chapter V

Departure from Bombay. — Arrival at Mocha. — Visit to the Dola, and Bas Kateb. — Preparations for continuing the Voyage. — Private conference with the Dola. — Departure from Mocha. — Aroe Islands. — Sir H. Popham's Chart of the Red Sea. — Howakel. — Arrival at Dhalac. — Mr. Maxfield's Report of his Voyage. — Reasons for supposing Howakel Bay to be the Opsian Bay of the Periplus. — Mr. Salt's Report of his Visit to Dhalac-el-Kibeer, Girbeshid, and Dobelew. — Captain Court's Survey of Dhalac. — Observations on Mr. Bruce's Account of it. — Arrival at Massowah. — Commercial arrangements. — Dispute with the Dola of Arkeko. — Departure from Massowah. p. 201

Chapter VI

Observations on the Periplus. — Massowah Bay the Bay of Aduli. — Valentia Island, Orine. — Monsieur Gosselin's Theory erroneous. — Asseez, Ptolemais' Theron. — Berenice in Foul Bay. — Departure from Massowah. — Arrival at Port Mornington and Wellesley's Islands. — Ras Asseez. — Botherem Bay. — Arrival at Suakim. — Transactions with the Natives. — Departure from Suakin. - - - P- 255

Chapter VII

Departure from Suakin.— Lent Bay. — Sheik Baroud. — Daroor. — Danger of the Panther among the rocks. — Loss of Anchors. — Revovery of them. — Salaka. — Mouse-trap Bay. — Gale of Wind.— Obliged to return to Mocha. — Observations on Macowar, probably the Berenice Pancrysos of the Ancients. — Observations on Mr. Bruce's supposed Voyage from Cosseir to Macowar. — Conjectures respecting Myos Hormos. Arrival at Massowah. — Visit to the Island of Valentia. — Return to Mocha. p. CONTENTS. III

Chapter VIII

Description of Mocha. — Construction ofthe Houses. — Fortifications. — Garrison. — Parade on Friday. — Cavalry and Infantry exercise. — Jews' Town. — Arabian Women. — Use of spirits. — Appearance of the Arabs, and their food. — Government of Mocha. — Police. — — Character of the Arabs resident in towns and Bedowee Arabs. — Their conduct to Christians altered lately. — Arabian Horses. — Climate of Mocha. — Mr. Salt's Tour to Moosa. — Observations on the formation of the Tehama. — Measures pursued in sinking a Well at Mocha. — Foundation of Mocha. — Establishment of European Factories. — Account of the trade in Coffee, Gum Arabic, Myrrh, Frankincense, Gold, Ivory, and India Goods. — The Fair of Berbera. — Possibility of penetrating into Africa. — Government of Yemen. — Account of the Imaum and Family. — Account of Sana. — Poligamy. — Rise and present State of the Wahabee power. p. 343

Chapter IX

Proceedings at Mocha during my absence. — Massacre of the Officers of the Alert by the Arab crew. — Survey and condemnation of the Assaye. — Disputes with the Dola about Renegados. — Captain Court's Survey of the Straits of Bab-el-mandeb and the neighbouring Islands. — Incorrectness of Sir Home Popham's Chart. — Badness of the Arab servants. — Observations on the Factory. — Preparations for the Visit to Abyssinia. — — Departure of Mr. Salt, Captain Rudland, Mr. Carter and their attendants for Abyssinia. — Arrival of Captain Barton from Suez. — Conduct of the Americans. — Incursions of the Wahabee. — Alarm at Mocha. — Distress of the Inhabitants. — Conduct of the Dola. — Arrival of two vessels under Seid Mohammed Akil from the Isle of France. — Their proceedings. — Departure from Mocha. — Visit to Ait. — Arrival at Massowah. — Return of Mr. Salt with the Baharnegash. — Reception of him on board the Panther. — Departure of the Baharnegash for Abyssinia. - - - p. 395

Chapter X. Mr

SALT'S NARRATIVE. Arrival at Massowah from Mocha. — Negotiations with the Nayib. — Difficulties experienced in procuring Mules, Camels, &c. for our Journey. — Preparations for the Journey. — Passage from Massowah to Arkeko. — Transactions there. - p. CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XL MR.

SALT'S NARRATIVE CONTINUED. Departure from Arkeko to Dixan. — Numbers and Description of our party. — Illerbehey. — Shillikee. — Weah. — Hazorta Encampments. — Meet with Mules sent down from Dixan. — Hamchammo Sadoon. — Tibbo. — Illilah. — Foot of Taranta. — Passage over that Mountain. — Arrival at DLxan. — Proceedings at Dixan. - p. 467

Appendix

. No. I. Pedigree of the Paishwa. - - - p. 513 II. Duties proposed to be levied by the Nayib of Massowah. - 514 III. Extracts from Captain Court's Report on his return from Massowah. - CHAPTER J. Motives for Voyage to the Red Sea. — Departure from Mangalore. — Cape Guardafui. — Cape Aden. — Passage through the Straits of Bab-el-mandeb. — Arrival at Mocha. — Reception there. — Departure for the African Coast — Ras Beiloul. — Island of Rackmah. — Saiel Abaiel. — Amphila. — Howakel. — Miseras. — Island of Valentia. — Arrival at the Island of Dhalac. — Visit to the Dola. — Mr. Salt's Journey to Dhalac-el-kibeer. — Departure for Massowah. — Arrival there. VOL. II li a schech's tomb im atrabia T-riVI-JiT^a ~M"_y 1 ifts.g "hyir^s-mPT, ATr-.-m.--rT- StECrt.

Chapter I

March 13, 1804. — It had always appeared to me an extraordinary circumstance, that if the western coast of the Red Sea were really as dangerous as the moderns have uniformly represented it, the ancients should invariably have navigated it in preference to the eastern coast ; nor could my suspicions that a western passage existed be removed by the silence of the British officers, after a long con tinuance of our fleet in that sea. The evils which they had ex perienced from the want of water, fresh provisions, and fuel, pointed out indeed most strongly the importance of ascertaining, whether these articles were not attainable at Massowah, Dhalac, or the MANGALORE. 4 adjacent islands, where, in former times, the Egyptian and Roman merchants were induced to fix their residence for the purpose of carrying on the trade with Abyssinia, and the interior of Africa.

At Dhalac, Mr. Bruce has asserted, that three hundred and sixty tanks, which had been erected by the munificence of the Ptolemies, were still in a state of preservation to afford, with care, a supply of water, more than sufficient for any fleet which the British could ever have occasion to send into that sea. The commercial advantages which might attend the opening of a communication with Abyssinia, appeared also worthy of attention ; and a more favourable time for making the attempt could never be expected, than immediately after the British naval power had been so fully displayed on the shores of Arabia and Egypt, and when the trade with the interior of Africa had been interrupted in its usual channel through the latter country, first by the conquest of the French, and afterwards by the civil war between the Porte and the Beys, which had caused a perfect separation between the upper and lower provinces.

I confess also that I felt it as a national reflection, that a coast which had afforded a profitable and extensive trade in gold, ivory, and pearls, to the sovereigns of Egypt, should be a perfect blank in our charts ; and that while new islands, and even continents were discovered by the abilities of our seamen, we should have become so ignorant ofthe eastern shore of Africa, as to be unable to ascertain many of the harbours and islands, described by an ancient navigator in the Periplus ofthe Erythrean Sea- During my stay at Calcutta I had the honour of frequently con versing with the Marquis Wellesley on the subject of the Red Sea, MANGALORE. 5 and of stating to him my ideas and feelings ; in which I had the happiness of finding that he fully concurred. At length I pro posed to his Excellency, that he should order one of the Bombay cruizers to be prepared for a voyage to the Red Sea ; and I offered my gratuitous services to endeavour to remove our disgraceful ignorance, by embarking in her, for the purpose of investigating the eastern shore of Africa, and making the necessary inquiries into the present state of Abyssinia, and the neighbouring countries.

His Excellency approved of the plan, and it was determined that, in order to obviate any difficulties which might arise, from the com manding officer differing with me in opinion, with respect to the eligibility of going to particular places, he should be placed under my orders. The necessary instructions were immediately transmit ted to Bombay, and I hastened my departure for Columbo, as it was desirable to reach the Red Sea as early in the year as possible. When I arrived at Tanjore I received dispatches from Bombay, acquainting me that the Antelope cruizer would be at Mangalore ready to receive me, and convey me to the Red Sea in the beginning of February ; at the same time I had letters from Mr. Lumsden, Chief Secretary at Calcutta, inclosing, under a flying seal, the proper orders to Captain Keys, to consider himself as under my command.

At Madras I heard that he was actually arrived ; yet from my servant's indisposition there, and the previous delay at Columbo, I was unable to reach Mangalore before the 8th of March. This was particularly unfortunate, as it precluded the possibility of my reaching Suez, previously to the change ofthe monsoon in the Arabian Gulf. It was however some consolation to know that the very heavy gales in that quarter rarely set in before June, by which time I hoped MANGALORE. to be safe on land, and that the sailing in unknown seas was pro bably safer when beating up, than when going briskly before the wind. As far as Mocha, we were certain of having the N. E. mon soon, though probably, on account of the lateness of the season, it would be only light, and we should be much baffled with calms, and for the remainder of the the voyage we knew we could take shelter in an harbour, and wait for finer weather, should a gale over take us.

Admiral Rainier, whom I had the good fortune to find here, did me the honour of calling on me the morning after my arrival, with several of his officers: some of them had been in the Red Sea, from whom I had the pleasure of learning many circumstances, which tended to diminish any alarms that might have been excited by the accounts of former travellers ; and they confirmed me in my determination of surveying the Abyssinian shore, by the admission ofthe fact, that, during the whole time our fleets were in the Red Sea, not one vessel had quitted the Arabian coast. With Captain Keys of the Antelope, who called on me, I was much pleased, as his manners were perfectly gentlemanly; and the concern he expressed at the smallness of his vessel, and the con sequent difficulty of accommodating me to his wish, induced me to suppose that I should find him inclined to do every thing in his power to make my voyage comfortable.

I determined to go on board the Antelope the next morning: I found her to be a brig, quite as large as I expected, about one hundred and fifty tons, mounting twelve eighteenpound carronades, and having on board forty-one Euro peans, including officers, sixteen marines, and thirty lascars and servants. For these they had on board six month's rice and salt meat, with forty days water ; of course there could be little room MANGALORE. 7 left for my baggage. The cabin was of a tolerable size: rather more than one third had been partitioned off for me ; the remainder served as a dining-room, in which the Captain and Mr. Salt were obliged to swing their cots at night. For myself, I was perfectly satisfied, but determined to lessen my baggage by sending part of my linen to England from Bombay. Captain Keys accompanied me on board the flag-ship to visit the Admiral, who paid me the honour of a salute: I undertook to convey dispatches for him to England.

On returning to Mr. Ravenshaw's, I instantly began my prepa rations for departure : these were soon completed, as well as cir cumstances would permit ; and Mr. Salt having arrived, we got on board the Antelope by eleven o'clock at night on the 13th of March. By twelve every thing was embarked, and we weighed anchor for the Red Sea, bidding a farewell to India, after a residence of fifteen months. According to the power with which I was invested, I di rected the Captain to proceed to Aden. March 18. — We have been coasting along the shore with the assistance of (he land and sea breezes, without being able to get out of sight ofland. The weather has been sultry; our little vessel sailed ill, which was probably owing to the bad condition of her bottom, which was perfectly covered with barnacles, and her being deep in the water: she rolled and pitched much, but had one good quality — she obeyed her helm, and wore with facility.

This is of the greatest importance when there is a necessity to tack frequently. The wind was directly against us. The shore that we passed was a bold one ; the mountains which I beheld in crossing the table-land, were here completely visible. We passed several AT SEA 8 islands of a rocky nature, and among others one strongly fortified by Tippoo, but for what purpose it would be difficult to conjecture as it affords no protection to shipping. Our latitude at this time, was 14° 27' 22" N. Mangalore is 12° 15'. Till the 26th we had the wind inclining to the west, and conse quently made little way. The calms had been frequent, yet the heat had never been unpleasant, and the sea had been as smooth as glass. We were on that day in long. 68° 40' 15", and had at length got hold of the N. E. monsoon.

Our latitude was much the same as when we sailed, viz. 12° 1' 37". When it is so late in the season, it would be better to sail from Bombay, as the monsoon at that time still keeps close to the shore. As the vessel was lightened by consumption of stock, she sailed better. The delay was the less disagreeable, as it gave me time to prepare charts of the Red Sea from the logs we had procured. The men caught a dolphin,* a most beautiful fish, generally from two to three feet long. When in the water it appears of a rich dark blue, or green, or golden yellow colour, according to the point of view in Avhichit is beheld. On being caught, it changes rapidly. The body at first is chiefly orange, spotted with the brightest blue : the fins are green, and then blue. The dorsal fin, when the fish is dying, is of a dark green throughout.

The ventral fins lie close to the body, where there is a hollow that partly receives them : these are of a bright gold-coloured orange on the outside; on the inside, when alive, bright blue; when nearly dead, a dark green. The anal fin, during life, is blue and light gold colour ; at death, lighter, and silvery : the caudal the same. The pupil of the eye dark : the * Coryphæna equisetalis. AT SEA 9 iris yellowish gold colour. It has three rows of small teeth, separated by a groove in the centre. When dying, the blue tint, for a few seconds, sometimes covers the whole fish, and then settles in the blue spots only. Linnæus's description, as far it goes, is accurate. It follows the ship in company. In its belly was found the flying fish. The Coryphæna hippuris is also called a dolphin by the sailors.

The dolphins on the 31st were about the ship in shoals. The men killed eight. We had one for dinner, and it was as good as an albicore. On the 30th we saw many sharks, one of which, seven feet long, the men caught. The following day the dolphins were still more numerous, and every mess had one. The wind for the last five days had been extremely light, but we had been favoured by a current to the S. W. which enabled us to make a degree a day. The sea perfectly smooth. On the 1st of April the men killed nine dolphins. Long. 61° 59', lat. 11° 52'* April 6. — The current deserted us on the 2d, and the breezes became extremely light. We had plenty of dolphins; and several very singular species of sea-blubber floated by. One was a large scarlet mass, about seven feet long and two or three wide, a part of which was got on board ; it consisted of a great number of dis tinct living substances, adhering to each other.

Each was about four inches diameter, tubular, and closed at the ends. A circular thread of scarlet spots was twined in circles amidst the gelatinous substance. Another was about two inches long by one in diameter; partly hollow. It had a dark yellow spot and one red close to each other, at the lower extremity. It was covered with fine prickles externally, which, produced no smart on being touched. AT SEA April 10.— As we approached the land, the breezes became more light; the fish, less afraid ofthe ship's foul bottom than they would have been of a clean one, were in great abundance. With the bait of a cockroach, my servant caught a small fish of the genus Diodon, but not of the species described by Linnæus, though I think it is the one mentioned in Chambers 's Dictionary under the name of Guamajacu atinga, and for which he quotes Piso's Nat.

Hist. lib. V. cap. 16. The description perfectly corresponds, but the drawing given has no resemblance. Mr. Salt drew it and I stuffed its skin, which was thick and glutinous. It is covered with prickles, which it has the power of expanding when it blows out its body ; the cavity of which is filled with a very large air-bladder, and a liver disproportioned to its size. Its length is about four inches : as we caught several, I conclude this to be its full growth. No injury follows the puncture of one of its prickles, though a juice exudes from the base, of a bright yellow colour, that permanently stains paper and other substances. It puts out two small tentacula from its mouth as it swims, and lives a considerable time out of water. Towards evening the wind began to come round to the southward.

On the 12th at day light the African coast was in view, bearing N. W. distant about eleven leagues. As we approached it most rapidly, by twelve we were only about three miles from Cape Guardafui. The Cape itself is not very high, but the land behind it is extremely lofty. It consists of rocky beds, one over the other, with gullies apparently formed by the rain. Not a vestige of vegetation was seen. We made it in 51° 10' E. and 1 1° 50' N. There was a considerable cross swell as we rounded the land. Our little AT SEA 11 vessel was going seven knots, which I did not expect from her. We had during the whole ofthe last day a strong set to the south, which took us thirty miles. We coasted the land during the whole time. Mount Felix is united to the main land by a low sand : it is con spicuous, and cannot be mistaken.

We were opposite to it after it was dark. On the 13th a very pleasant breeze came on from the north of east. We steered W. and by N. straight for Aden, and passed the high land behind Cape St. Peter. The coast is very high and barren : it was still in sight at night, though a haze, which ex tended across the whole sea, concealed the base. The stars near the horizon were hardly visible. Several meteors, called falling stars, shot occasionally across the sky ; but no aurora borealis had ap • peared during the whole voyage. A heavy dew fell all night. The sea was smooth, though we went at the rate of six knots an hour. We had a very fine breeze during the whole night ofthe 13th, but no land was visible on the following morning. The sky was clear, and the water smooth. At twelve o'clock we had run one hundred and twenty miles in twenty-four hours.

At eight in the morning of the 15th a part ofthe African shore was in sight, distant about eleven leagues, which was as high as that on the opposite side. At one Cape Aden bore right a-head Wby N^N. distant eleven leagues. We went on till night, when it was so near, that we determined to come to an anchor. We passed the head land, and anchored at nine o'clock on the other side, close, as we supposed, to the town ; but could not be certain, as no one on board had ever been there, and we had no directions respecting making it. The land sheltered us, and we had little motion. vol. n. c AT SEA 12 At day light on the 16th we found no town was visible, and thought we had not got far enough; and that it lay beyond another head land, nearly W. accordingly we weighed anchor at six, and steered along shore.

Cape Aden is a very lofty rock, on the top of which are several ruined towers. The bay we anchored in was a fine one, about six miles wide, and as many deep. On proceeding we sound our mistake; that in which we anchored was Back Bay, and Aden itself was on the eastern side of the headl-and. The bottom of every bay was a sandy beach ; beyond that ran a chain of mountains at a distance. I never beheld a more dreary scene ; nor one that less accorded with the idea that might be formed of the country from the beautiful description of Milton: no " Sabæan odours" came off to gratify our senses, from the shore, nor did they ever exist there, but in the mind of the poet, as a more wretched country does not exist ; for the myrrh and frankincense come from the opposite coast, though the Arabs were, and are still, the medium of conveyance to Europe.

It would have been a serious loss of time to have beaten back, and therefore I determined to go on, though much vexed at a mistake, which would prevent our having excellent water, instead of that which is to be obtained higher up, and is invariably brack ish. Back Bay is the best watering-place, though it is five miles from the town: the only expense is three dollars demanded by the Dola, as I learned from Lieutenant Powell of the Wasp, who was there in 1803. In East Bay it is purchaseable, but at a high price. On the western side is a range of rocks extending out nearly as far south as the hill of Aden itself. The tops of these are singularly broken, and rise into Gothic spires in several parts : two of these have got BAB-EL-MANDEB. 13 the names of Ass's Ears. Another bay is west of them, in size and appearance exactly like the former.

Its western boundary is a range of rocks, one of which so perfectly resembles a funnel as to deserve that name : it can never be mistaken. The coast is shelving to the south of west. Before sunset the Cape itselfwas perfectly visible like a gunner's quoin, Cape St. Anthony being on our bow. This is not very high land. We kept at the distance of three or four leagues to avoid a shoal that extends out from it. The breeze continued from the eastward, and freshened as we advanced. At ten the island of Perim was in sight, and soon afterwards we entered the smaller straits which run between it and the land. We kept nearer the island than the main, with from eleven to six fathom water. The breeze was assisted by the tide, and soon brought us under shelter ofthe promontory. We anchored by twelve in smooth water, in defiance of a very strong breeze.

Before day on the 17 th the small boat was hoisted out. My servant and Mr- Hall were sent on shore with their guns and dogs, in hopes of killing us some game. After an early breakfast Mr. Salt and I, attended by Mr. Hurst the midshipman, and sour sepoys, went on shore to see the country, and collect shells. We landed on the beach, on which nothing grows but a species of salicornia. A ridge of broken hills, detached from the Cape, rises about a mile from the shore : this we determined to ascend. The way up was craggy, but the heat ofthe sun was tempered by the strong breeze, and the fatigue was relieved by discovering several curious plants, and some mineral specimens. From the summit we had an excel lent view of Cape Bab-el-mandeb and the island of Perim. A bay to the eastward ofthe Cape extends inwards a considerable way: the BAB-EL-MANDEB. 14 land between that and the westernmost, in which the ship lay, is perfectly flat, and a dry salt sand : if the sea were to rise only a very few feet it would cover it.

Already part of it is a lake of salt water. Accidents have occurred from mistaking this east bay for the strait ; a circumstance that can never happen, if it should be only observed that Perim is perfectly flat, which ought to be kept close on the lar board side ; whereas Bab-el-mandeb hill is the loftiest land in the neighbourhood. The hill on which we were rises suddenly out of a plain of sand; no others are near it. The shooting party were at the bottom of the hill, from which we soon descended, and joined them. They had seen several ante lopes, and had wounded one, but it escaped. They had killed some partridges, and also purchased some milch goats very cheap, and remarkably fine. On reaching the sea shore we found a great many Arab fishermen, with a profusion of mullets, and other fish.

These we purchased and sent on board, to procure, in return, a supply of water, none of which was to be obtained on the land. The boys went in amongst the coral rocks, and procured a few shell-fish, that were fine of their kind. It was still early, and as the breeze continued, we determined to walk along the shore to point Bab-el-mandeb. Between us was a small creek communicating with the salt-water lake, now nearly dry, over which we were obliged to pass in the boat. As we advanced, it was less pleasant, from the air being frequently heated by the sand over which it passed, which gave it all the effect of the hot winds of India in scorching the skin, and producing intense drought. Dr. Macghie, who had accompanied us, and Mr. Salt bathed, from which they suffered considerably, but not so much as the two officers of the BAB-EL-MANDEB. 15 ship, who, from being more exposed, were soon of a perfectly red colour.