Coolie Traffic and Kidnapping

Preface

. Although some years have passed since this work escaped, as a pastime, from my pen, several of the subjects dealt with have become, more than ever, matter for legislative consideration and public attention; therefore, at the request of many friends, I have been induced to offer it for public acceptance, not on the ground of its literary merits, but simply as a collection of Facts suited to the time. The scene opens at Hong Kong, where I join an expedition of Coolies, the kidnapping, treatment, and transporting of whom form the leading feature of the work, interspersed with other incidents of my life and travels about the world, comprising a disastrous voyage to Australia; a cruise through the Mediter ranean, with a brief description of Athens, a descriptive outline of Salonica, Constantinople, Odessa, and other places on the route; together with a short practical view of the existing state of the British Mer- PREFA CE.

VI cantile Marine, a subject too little known, studied, or cared for, and one to which I would solicit the reader's most thoughtful attention, seeing that the welfare of our seamen as a class ought to be a matter of personal interest to every one belonging to this, the greatest maritime nation in the world, affecting as it does, directly or indirectly, almost every home in the kingdom and its dependencies. In exposing the system of kidnapping and Coolie traffic, I have confined myself to the recording of actual self-investigated facts, some of which may doubtless amuse the reader, while many more will serve to conduct the mind into a region of black hearted inhumanity, leading it downward through a labyrinth of evil, until midway between man and demon it will be found (with pulse beating time to the deeds) asking in the measured tones of gathering astonishment, Can such things be?

With these few preliminary remarks I beg to hand it over, and would solicit at the same time the charitable consideration of all to the many faults and failings to be found in the composition thereof. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Hong Kong : Incidents which led to my taking a Voyage amongst Coolies. As the incidents which led to my taking a voyage to Peru, amongst Coolies, are of a rather singular nature, it may afford some amusement to the passive reader to peruse an account of the little adventure, while the reflective mind will perceive in it one more instance of the vast influence the trifling occurrences of every-day life ofttimes have upon the subsequent career and character of many men. To this little incident and its attendants I attribute a salutary change in my mode of life, as it has been the means of eradicating an insatiable love of a roving, changing, and consequently a turbulent ex istence, and brought me to feel and believe that man has infinitely more to live for than the mere gratification of animal desires and the pleasures of sense ; pleasures which, though plucked in every clime, amid all the luxury of wealth, leave the soul in search of TRUE HAPPINESS, echoing the hollow sound, It IS NOT IN ME.

My time has been spent for many years past B moving about the world searching for what might justly be termed twin phantoms to the Philosopher's Stone, namely, contentment and true happiness — creations of romance. .True, it is our lot at times to feel a thrill of that heavenly essence even here, but, like the meteoric blaze, ere we have time to realize its existence it passes away; we look anxiously around for a continuation of its celestial influence, and find all that remains of it is the closing shadow as it flies off and is lost amid the wild confusion of a restless world, leaving the whole soul cast down by the saddening gloom of disappointment. I have chased those dazzling phantoms in many lands, and just four weeks ago noticed my arrival at Hong Kong, in hopes of finding in that romantic spot something to gratify (at least for a time) my restless cravings.

Hong Kong, that most wonderful of all England's free colonies — now one of the largest emporiums in the China Sea — requires no descriptive efforts of mine, as the ground has, long ere now, been well trodden and graphically described by those immeasurably better qualified for such a task than one who has never made writing his study. I may, however, be permitted to remark in passing that the town itself — with its one long leading thoroughfare and many tri butaries — had very few charms for me. It is with the beautiful bay that the above incidents are connected ; therefore with it I purpose for a moment dealing, but not in a very lengthened descriptive manner, as the beauties of it, no doubt, have also been well portrayed, painted in all its loveliness, resting in the bosom of an archipelago of bold mountainous islands, whose summits ofttimes clothe themselves from sight, and shut their midnight grandeur in the clouds.

Beautiful indeed the bay appears under ordinary circumstances, but in the calm moonlight night, when every object looking in the flood sees its shadow, de scription fails : the scene must then be witnessed to be realized ; shut in as it is from the ocean on every side, its waters attain a placidity under these circum stances which — mirror-like — reflects the slumbering patchwork of the sky in clear outline. But although thus sheltered from the ocean, it is not by any means protected at all times from the fury of the elements, for often does the typhoon pour its. vengeance down upon the bay, and shake the mighty mirror in its frame until it reflects in fierce and torn heaps the wrath and fury of the flying storm. The bay presents in this aspect another phase of almost indescribable grandeur, and, but for the de struction such visitors cause and the wreck of matter they leave behind, I could look back upon one — which occurred during mystay — with a pleasing remembrance as being one of the grandest sights I ever beheld ; looking on, of course, from a sheltered-verandah point of view.

On the occasion of a typhoon approaching, the scene is worthy of description ; therefore, if such will interest' or amuse the reader, let him kindly accompany me up the hill-side to some sheltered eminence, where we will seat ourselves in a commanding position, and having the field before us, together with a slight baro metrical indication of a coming storm, we may, ere the sun goes down behind the western hills, make our selves acquainted with the excitement on the bay con sequent upon such occasions. Well seated, and the field in view, see what activity prevails in the harbour. All is life : loading, discharging, and transporting merchandise.. The mighty mercantile heart of the city beats : the B pulses throb : the vital fluid is seen in every boat and barge. Circulation is rapid. Bales, bags, and barrels, coal, cotton, and other wares fly through the arteries. while thousands move in harmony around, feasting on, yet supplying their individual quota to, the general vitality.

The whole surface of the harbour is alive with craft of all possible shapes, while the " sam-pans," as they are termed — i.e., small boats for conveyance of pas sengers — are sailing about briskly in every direction, making the most of a smart increasing breeze now blowing from the north-west ; and — if we may judge from their appearance — all are evidently unconscious that the white flying clouds above us have been shaken out of the north by the wild margin of the advancing storm. The barometer is still " falling," as the seamen would say, and no doubt by this time many in the colony are anxiously watching the movements of the mercurial column. The clouds are changing, the sky is darkening over head, the wind increases with squalls and rain, and, turning toward the windward horizon, we there behold unmistakable evidence that the young typhoon has been let loose to gather strength as it rolls, or tear itself to shreds amongst the hills.

Quick as lightning the intelligence of a hurricane flies around the colony. Its fierce approach bids commerce cease, and stirs each one to battle for himself. How changed is now the scene ! See the vessels in the bay, their yards already manned, the crew of each busily engaged in fastening the stowed sails more securely, lest the furious blast discover a solitary inch of loose canvas on which to open up a work of de struction. All is apparent confusion to the unpractised eye. The noise of extra anchors dropping here and there ; the rattling of a hundred cables heard above the breeze ; the light, small masts descending as if by magic ; while yards are disappearing, we know not where. There are amongst the fleet a British ship of war and a smart American frigate. A few minutes ago they had everything aloft, looking defiance to all the hurricanes that ever blew, and the Celestial Empire to boot ; but now they appear more like hulks (with housed masts) laid up in ordinary ; one would almost imagine there had been some legerdemain practised in their case, seeing that the upper masts have disappeared, yards gone, guns run in, ports all closed, while their very funnels have been partakers in the general transfiguration ; they also are lost to sight and to the elements, and none too soon, as the wild gathering fierceness of the windward sky denotes.

Where now are the multitude of " sam-pans " which, three quarters of an hour ago, were happily following their individual avocations ? They are all out upon the bay : terror might be seen in every face as they bend to their oars with desperation, each one stretching with vigour toward the Kow Loon or windward shore, where shelter is found in a small protected portion of the bay, whence they do not emerge until well assured that all danger is past. A few minutes more, and not a solitary boat of any kind will be seen on the now troubled waters, nor at any of the landing-places at Hong Kong, while those belonging to Europeans are already hoisted up to the numerous davits which adorn the harbour wall. The cause of this speedy attention to the first intimation of a typhoon is that they come on with such rapidity at certain seasons of the year as leaves little or no time for preparation of any kind, and to be caught unprepared is sure to produce fatal consequences.

A case in point which occurred to myself illustrative of the above leads me into the incident referred to at the opening of this chapter. The afternoon was lovely ; barometer favourable — as a nautical friend observed — and a pleasant breeze from the north-west. I chartered a smart little cutter for a cruise on the bay, with a few convivials. It was got ready. We embarked with a buoyancy of spirits, created by the pleasantness of the weather, the freshness of the breeze, and the prospect of enjoying without interruption the contents of a well-filled and carefully selected hamper of necessaries. After a sailing inspection of the fleet, we steered for Kow Lung (or Kow Loon, as it is called), a narrow strip of coast territory ceded to the British by the con vention of Pekin in 1861. On landing close to the government coal depot we were met by one of the storekeepers, and were conducted around the spacious grounds by him, an " old salt," who had served an honourable pension-period on board ships of the royal navy, and who, to use his own expression, " hoped ere long to be feathering his oar in some green field of old England, or comfortably moored under lee of some spreading oak where there would just be current enough to prevent the grass and shells growing to his after run."

One of our party, feeling amused at the volubility of the generous-looking old tar, asked him what we were to understand by the parable of the current, grass, shells, run, &c. "I mean," said he, "that I may just have enough remunerative exercise to keep my old angle-irons from getting rusty, and my timbers free from the grass of indolence, by which, in conjunction with my pension, and what little I have scraped together during my service in China, I shall be able to prevent the shells of poverty growing to the after end of life's voyage." " Excellent definition," said I, " and worthy of a British officer." By this time we had finished our survey, and on emerging from one of the stores we discovered that the wind had increased considerably, although nothing was visible to warrant serious apprehension.

The weather was clear and bracing, while massive white clouds were careering high above our heads, lending an indescribable glory to the hills as their shadows chased each other in quick succession across their summits, relieved by the brilliant splendour of a western sun. One of our party immediately proposed extending our ramble for a short distance on the rising ground. " Avast, gentlemen," said the old seaman, as he looked up, snuffed the air once or twice, and continued — " If you will take the advice of an old sea-dog, I would advise you to get yourselves moored as soon as possible under the reflection of Hong Kong bricks and mortar, for, if my eyes don't deceive me, we shall have it hot and strong before sundown. Be advised, gentlemen," he concluded, "while your timbers are sound, and don't be led astray by the appearance of those beautiful clouds with their typhoon-tarnished edges."

A young naval officer of our party asked him, with a sarcastic sneer, what his reasons were for such prognostications. " Young gentleman," he replied, " I can see it in the sun. The prognostications, as you call them, are there in all their blazing fury, and I would also tell you that you'll gather up the slack skin of that sarcastic face of yours before the night sets in if my advice be not taken to 'bout ship for Hong Kong." Thinking there might be some truth in our old friend's remarks, we deemed it prudent at least to get into our boat and extend our cruise, and at the same time have a little refreshment. As soon as we got well off shore bottles and glasses were exhumed, corks drawn, and the beverage passed round. This was not destined to last long, however, for just as our sarcastic naval friend was about to sample the third bottle of champagne, after pledging the "jolly old shell" we left on shore, a sudden gust of wind struck the boat, pitched our young friend on his " beam ends," while his foaming glass commenced, regardless of consequences, performing the circuit of my head ; and but for the cool presence of mind displayed by most of the party, the result of this sudden squall might have been serious indeed — at least to the non swimmers, such as I unfortunately am.

The boat being " righted," reefing down was our next operation, while our young sprig of Neptune lay groaning with (if not a fractured rib) at least the " slack skin " of his face gathered up into grim fan tastical contortions. After single-reefing our sails, I cast a glance toward the peak of Hong Kong, and perceived that it was already enveloped by the cloudy heralds of the coming storm. We forthwith close-reefed our canvas, and put about for the shore — the bay, by this time, swarming with boats of all kinds, containing fihe floating population, each one vigorously pulling for safety toward the windward side of the harbour. " See," said our young naval friend (who had recovered, and was stretched along the stern-sheets, quietly surveying the scene), as he pointed to the fleet of terror-stricken rowers, " did you ever witness such a regatta of barking lunatics ?

By the admiral's hat, it occurs to me there must be something seriously wrong, for, by Jove, those fellows have all gone mad ! I hope and trust the whole colony is not affected, for if so, there will doubtless follow a considerable multitude of heart-rending cases of hydrophobia. I say, doctor," he continued, turning to my friend Dr. F., of poetical memory, " you will in all probability have an ex cellent opportunity afforded you for the display of your medical skill when you get ashore — that is to say, if you escape being bitten yourself on landing, for I have arrived at the conclusion that, the whole colony has decidedly gone . Hallo!" said he, stopping short, and looking to windward, "here comes a squall, with rain, and no waterproofs in the boat ; that is more than I signed for, anyhow, eh, doctor ?"

" No doubt," replied the doctor ; " however, a few more years in the service of your country will tone down the apparent horror with which you seem to regard those atmospheric disturbances, and perhaps teach you at the same time to look upon the wild exertions of those whom you are pleased to designate ' lunatics ' as being, at such a moment, a life and death struggle. You, sir," he continued, " see and feel this simply to be a squall with rain, and your only trouble is the absence of waterproofs ; while on the other hand, those rowers observe in it the wild out riders of a gathering storm, discharging their watery tribute earthward in their flying career through the misty air ; experience has taught them that such signs as these, at this season of the year, herald the approach of a typhoon, and their present trouble is the fear of being lost ere they reach the small bay of Kow Loon, where they are rowing to for shelter."

A few minutes more elapsed, and one of our sails gave way, immediately followed by the mast coming down with a crash alongside ; after securing which, the crew applied to their oars, but the wind and sea by this time had rendered it a matter of impossibility to approach any of the landing-places at Hong Kong, or to pull up to the windward shore ; consequently, nothing remained for us but to take shelter on board the first ship we drove down to, on board which I observed an officer waving for us to come alongside, they having made preparation to receive us. Getting alongside and on board with considerable difficulty, we passed our cutter astern to await the result, and in the interim to receive such hospitality as the seaman alone knows so well how to tender with unaffected and spontaneous generosity.

After refreshing ourselves in the saloon, we came on deck to survey the scene, which by this time had become abundantly suggestive of something far more terrible than an ordinary storm. The first object which attracted my attention on emerging from the " companion " was the enraptured expression of the doctor's countenance, gazing atten tively at the mountain-top, with all the poetry of his nature beaming from his eyes. "You have grandeur in its wildest aspect before you now, doctor," said I, pointing to the dark cloud encircled summit of Hong Kong. " Yes, Mr. D., grandeur indeed," he replied. " The peak of Hong Kong looks black as the vortex of a thunder-cloud, while surrounded by masses of hoary vapour, sweeping in fierce volumes around its craggy brow. And see," he continued, with rising enthusiasm, " how the whirling mass clings to the lee ward side of the peak with all the desperation of reasoning spirits, until, startled by the windward pressure of the storm, it parts its hold in reluctant patches, and is immediately lost amongst the distant confusion of compounding clouds.

Yes, Mr. D., this is indeed a scene I delight to behold ; but let us leave the cloud-covered mountain-top to the cool, stormy enjoy ment of its vapour-bath, and cast our eyes over the heaving waters of the bay, where all is now wild commotion." " That is so," replied our young naval friend, drawing near, and imitating the doctor's style ; " commotion indeed, doctor ; and I am prepared to affirm, that if there be any further increase of atmospheric madness, a few of those vessels which appear to be most power fully affected will in a very short space of time com mence throwing their arms around each other in destruction's deadly overture. What think you, captain ?" he concluded, addressing the master of the ship. " My opinion flows in much the same channel," was the reply; "but, thank Providence and my owners, our ground-tackle is second to none in the fleet," casting, as he concluded, a significant glance at the surrounding ships.

" That might be," resumed our young friend ; " but should that craft riding ahead of us get at all fatigued, and think of parting her cable, our ground-tackle would stand a very poor chance indeed were she disposed to take up a position athwart our hawse for in stance : however, I don't think such is her present in tention, for it appears to me by her rearing and plunging that she is practising for a submarine ex ploring cruise. There she goes, head under, by Jove, wetting her locks preparatory to the final dive, captain." " Sir," said the captain, who could not resist smiling, " I think such remarks rather unseasonable." " Yes," said the doctor, chiming in, " so do I, sir ; and if our young friend had ever witnessed the devas tation, death, and havoc often produced by these storms, the retrospective breathings of his mind while recurring, it might be, to the horrors of but one hour— would serve to temper his wild, though some what original, observations."

" Bravo, doctor ! poetical to the last," was our incorrigible young friend's reply ; "and" be continued, " you must become an author, doctor ; such lights as you possess hid under a bushel ought to be made a capital offence, to be tried by a court martial. Sup pose you were to commence by producing a poetical synopsis of the incidents of this afternoon, for instance, and — " To dread measure set the war of elements, Destruction's deep, sepulchral notes, And semibreves of woe. What think you of that, doctor ? Not so bad for a youngster growing up under the shadow of the Articles of War, eh ? Of course, you will require to place me conspicuously in the foreground as the most amusing novelty of the piece, otherwise it will be de cidedly incomplete." " My dear friend," replied the doctor with much good humour, "we might leave the elements out entirely, and find matter enough in the conspicuous novelty in the foreground for an epic poem."

" What, doctor ? Serve this terrific grandeur with ejectment, and concentrate the elements in me for an epic ? Could not be done, sir, I assure you. If the elements of the ' mess-room ' would suffice, those you might discover in developed abundance ; well spun, of excellent manufacture, pointed, and crowned." While the above conversation was going on, the captain and I were silently watching the fleet of vessels struggling against the fury of the tempest. One large ship especially claimed our attention, lying close to the Kow Loon shore. Her proportions ap peared gigantic from where we stood, and her outlines of the finest build. She alone, as if conscious of her superior appearance and power, rode proudly immov able to the fury of the blast. Turning to our captain, I inquired what ship it was.

"That, sir," he replied, "is the clipper ship A , one of the finest sailing ships afloat ; she is destined for the Chinese slave-trade, alias Coolie traffic." Our naval friend immediately turned round and de clared such to be impossible, as he had observed the free and proud ensign of old England flying at her flagstaff this morning, and such trade was considered almost slavery by the BRITISH POWERS THAT BE, and not permitted under the flag. " My dear sir," said the captain, " that amounts to nothing ; they will soon change her nationality, and that without much trouble : you will see some less scrupulous nation's colours waving over her stern be fore long." " How can you make such traffic slavery ? " I in quired, " as I have been informed that they are all shipped off voluntarily, and under a time agreement."

" Well, sir, I believe there is some such farce as you refer to gone through ; but I am assured upon reliable authority that two-thirds of the poor things are decoyed from home and sold into the 'barracoons,' after get ting inside the gates of which the curtain drops over the victims." " Truly," said the doctor; " and the inquisitive eyes of the world fail to discover the coercive enormities committed within." " That is so," resumed the captain ; " in short," said he, " there is comparatively little known of the traffic beyond those immediately connected with it." Tea at this moment being announced, and the heaviest of the storm apparently blown over, we de scended to partake once more of our worthy captain's hospitality. After seating ourselves at the tea-table, I took occa sion to ask him if it was possible to obtain a passage to Peru on board a Coolie ship, as I had arrived at the determination to try.

" Possible, but highly improbable," was the reply ; " as they do not desire the particulars of the trade ex posed, which assuredly would soon be the case were they to carry any European passengers." Having nothing particular to occupy my time, ex cept moving about the world, my first thought was to try the possibility, at least, of getting a passage to Peru on board one of them. Being by nature fond of adventure, excitement, and change, this was an oppor tunity not to be lost ; I accordingly resolved to leave nothing undone which would aid me in arriving at the fulfilment of my wishes. By 8 p.m. the storm (which the doctor declared was comparatively nothing in point of force and dura tion) had subsided, and we were enabled to take our departure, with many expressions of thanks to Captain W. for his kind courtesy and generous hospitality.

On reaching the shore, and before parting with our interesting naval friend, he expressed his unqualified satisfaction with the adventures of the day, while re gretting his inability to remain with us and wind up the evening amongst the startled natives of Hong Kong.

Chapter II

I obtain a Passage. In pursuance of my resolution of making a voyage to Peru amongst Coolies, I visited a few ships in the harbour, fitting out for the trade, with the view of selecting, if possible, the best one for the trip. Amongst those I visited, none appeared to be so well adapted for comfort, accommodation, and speed, as the good ship A , referred to in the last chapter. I consequently procured an interview with the com mander, Captain B., who had the power to grant me a passage, and who at once acceded to my pro posals, but not till he had warned me at length of the attendant dangers of the trade, enumerating several unpleasant probabilities. When, however, I informed him that the love of adventure and change was the sole cause which led me to desire the voyage, he seemed satisfied.

But, as if a sudden thought had seized upon his mind, he turned upon me an inquiring gaze, and asked if I had any other object in view beyond the excitement of of a sea voyage on board a Coolie ship. Informing him in reply that, having no other way to occupy my time than by moving about the world from place to place, and being (as I was) tired of foreign travel, it was my intention to return to Europe via Panama and New York — a tour I had long wished to make ; and as the excitement of a sea voyage had always a charm for me, giving vigour to the mind and health to the body, he would at once perceive that no other motive at present had induced me to solicit the voyage, trusting we might be fortunate enough to accomplish it without any of the unpleasant proba bilities occurring which he had already enumerated.

" There will be nothing omitted by me," he replied, " to bring about such a result ; and you will find," he continued, " when you go on board, that she is, with out exception, as handsome a vessel as ever graced the waters of Hong Kong, and well suited for the trade." After inquiring when I might go on board, I took leave of Captain B., his reply being that I might "join" her when I pleased, adding that we should sail for Macao, our place of charter, in a very few days. Satisfied with my success, I proceeded to order a few personal and creature comforts suitable for the voyage, intending to avail myself of Captain B.'s per mission to "join" her when I pleased, by going on board the following morning. Next morning, however, my intentions were frus trated by the inclemency of the weather, and while I was gloomily musing on this, in walked our friend the doctor, with a poetical " Good morning, Mr. D." " Not so good as I could have wished," said I, turning round in reply to the salute.