VII. MANY THINGS…

VII. MANY THINGS

Choice and Cheap Cookery--New Receipts--Southern Dishes--Gumbo, &c.--Home-made Wines, &c.--Dairy--Coloring--Diet--Health, &c.

1159. To preserve Ginger.--Take green ginger, pare it with a sharp knife, and then throw it into cold water as pared, to keep it white; then boil it till tender, in three waters, at each change putting the ginger into cold water. For seven pounds of ginger, clarify eight pounds of refined sugar; when cold, drain the ginger, and put it into a pan, with enough of the syrup to cover it, and let it stand two days; then pour the syrup to the remainder of the sugar, and boil it some time; when cold, pour it on the ginger again, and set it by for three days; then boil the syrup again, and pour it hot over the ginger. Proceed thus till you find the ginger rich and tender, and the syrup is highly flavored. If you put the syrup on hot at first, or if too rich, the ginger will shrink, and not take the sugar.

1160. Orange Syrup.--Is so easily made, and can be used so constantly with advantage, that no housekeeper should be without it. Select ripe and thin-skinned fruit; squeeze the juice through a sieve; to every pint, add a pound a half of powdered sugar; boil it slowly, and skim as long as any scum rises; you may then take it off, let it grow cold, and bottle it off. Be sure to secure the corks well. Two table-spoonfuls of this syrup, mixed in melted butter, make an admirable sauce for a plum or butter-pudding; and it imparts a fine flavor to custards.

1161. Apple or Quince Jelly.--Pare, quarter, and core the apples; put them in a sauce-pan, with enough water to cover them only; let them boil five minutes; put them in a bag, and let them drain until the next day. To one pint of juice, put one pound of sugar, and boil it from fifteen to twenty minutes.

[Cranberry Jelly may be made in the same way.]

1162. Brandy Cherries.--Take the nicest carnation cherries, and trim them, leaving a short stem to keep in the juice; wash and wipe them tenderly, and put them into wide-mouthed bottles. Make a good syrup, and, when it is nearly done, add a pint and a half of French brandy to one pint of syrup; mix it thoroughly, and, when cold, pour it over the cherries. If carefully sealed, the fruit will be good for years.

1163. Brandy Peaches.--Drop the peaches in weak, boiling lye; let them remain till the skin can be wiped off; make a thin syrup, and let it cover the fruit; boil the fruit till they can be pierced with a straw; take it out; make a very rich syrup, and add, after it is taken from the fire, and while it is still hot, an equal quantity of brandy. Pour this, while it is still warm, over the peaches in the jar. They must be covered with it.

1164. Brandied Peaches--an excellent way.--After having removed the skin in the usual manner, by using lye, and throwing them in cold water, weigh the peaches, and put them in a stone jar--allowing room at the top for three-quarters of a pound of sugar for each pound of peaches; then pour over enough white brandy to cover the fruit. Set the jar in a pot of cold water, and let it remain over the fire till the brandy comes to a scald. When they are cold, they may either be put in glass jars, and tied down with bladder, or left in the same jar.

1165. Tomato Catchup.--To one gallon of skinned tomatoes, add four table-spoonfuls of salt; four table-spoonfuls of black pepper, ground fine; half a table-spoonful of allspice, ground fine; three table-spoonfuls of mustard; eight pods of red pepper. Simmer it slowly in sharp vinegar, in a pewter vessel, three or four hours; then strain it through a wire-sieve, and bottle it up. When cold, seal up the corks, and it will last for years.

1166. Green Tomato Pickle.--Cut in thin slices one peck of green tomatoes; sprinkle them with salt, and let them stand a day or two. Slice ten or twelve small onions. Mix together one bottle or small tin box of mustard; half an ounce of mustard-seed; one ounce of cloves; one ounce of pimento; two ounces of turmeric. Put in the kettle a layer of tomatoes, then one of onions and spice, till all are in. Cover it with good vinegar, and let it simmer till the tomatoes are quite clear.

1167. French Mustard.--Put on a plate, one ounce of the best powdered mustard; a salt-spoonful of salt; a few leaves of tarragon; and a clove of garlic, minced fine. Pour on it, by degrees, sufficient vinegar to dilute it to the proper consistency; about a wine-glassful; mix it with a wooden spoon. Do not use it in less than twenty-four hours.

1168. India Pickle. (E. R.)--Put two hundred gherkins, three pints of small onions, one quart of nasturtiums, one quart of radish-pods, 1 quartern of string-beans, six cauliflowers, and two hard, white cabbages, sliced, into a pan, and sprinkle them with salt--the onions having been previously peeled, and laid in salt and water for a week, to take off their strength. Then, after a day or two, take them out of the pan, and dry them thoroughly in a warm place, in the shade: they must be spread out separately. To two gallons of vinegar, put one ounce and a half of allspice, the same of long pepper and of white, and two ounces of ginger, tied up in muslin bags. When cold, mix with the vinegar one pound and a half of flour of mustard, and two table-spoonfuls of Cayenne pepper. Boil it well together, and pour it on the pickle. The vegetables mentioned, not being all procurable at the same time, may be added separately, at different periods, but they must all undergo the salting and drying process.

In choosing those vegetables, some discrimination may also be used. When in season, few things add a higher flavor to the pickle than the buds and flowers of the elder.

1169. Horse-radish.--Let the horse-radish lie one or two hours in cold water; then scrape off the skin, grate it, and moisten it with vinegar. Serve it with roast meat.

1170. Oyster Gumbo.--Mix well one table-spoonful of flour and one of lard, and brown the mixture in a frying-pan; take the liquor of two quarts of oysters, set it on the fire, and when it boils, add the browned flour with some chopped leeks and parsley; then put in the oysters, and let the whole simmer for fifteen minutes; next sift into it a table-spoonful and a half of powdered sassafras, to give it the fillet; leave it two or three minutes longer on the fire, and serve it very hot. No spices, but black pepper. This dish will require more or less time to prepare, according to the ingredients of which it is to be composed. For chicken or turkey gumbo, the fowl must first be fricasseed. Any good cook will understand how to make a piquante and palatable stock, of whatever she may select for her gumbo.

1171. Mayonnaise.--Roast a pair of chickens or a turkey, in the morning, and put them away to settle the juices. Immediately before serving the dish, carve the fowls, and put them compactly into a dish; take the yolks of six eggs, and pour, in a very fine and continued stream upon them, half a bottle of olive oil, and stir the eggs one way, till they are creamed; then put half a tea-spoonful of vinegar into this dressing, and having put pepper, salt, and a little vinegar on the fowl, pour the dressing over it, and arrange all over it bunches of cool, fresh lettuce. Garnish with hard eggs.

1172. Jambalaya--Cut up, and stew till half done, a fowl, brown or white; then add rice, and a piece of ham well minced; this must be left on the fire till the rice has taken up the liquid; the roundness of the grain must be preserved, yet the dish must not be hard and dry. It is served in a heap, on a flat dish. Pepper and salt the only seasoning.

Southern children are very fond of this essentially home-dish. It is said to be of Indian origin. Wholesome as it is palatable, it makes part of almost every Creole dinner.

1173. Imitation of Mock Turtle.--Put into a pan a knuckle of veal, two fine cow-heels or two calf's feet, two onions, a few cloves, peppers, berries of allspice, mace, and sweet herbs; cover them with water, then tie a thick paper over the pan, and set it in an oven for three hours. When cold, take off the fat very nicely; cut the meat and feet into bits an inch and a half square; remove the bones and coarse parts, and then put the rest on to warm, with a large spoonful of walnut and one of mushroom catchup, half a pint of sherry or Madeira wine, a little mushroom-powder, and the jelly of the meat. When hot, if it wants any more seasoning, add some; and serve with hard eggs, forcemeat balls, a squeeze of lemon, and a spoonful of soy. This is a very easy way, and the dish is excellent.

1174. Oyster Sausages.--Beard, rinse well in their strained liquor, and mince, but not finely, three dozen and a half of plump oysters, and mix them with ten ounces of fine bread-crumbs, and ten of beef-suet chopped extremely small; add a salt-spoonful of salt, and one of pepper, or less than half the quantity of cayenne, twice as much pounded mace, and the third of a small nutmeg grated; moisten the whole with two unbeaten eggs, or with the yolks only of three, and a dessert-spoonful of the whites. When these ingredients have been well worked together, and are perfectly blended, set the mixture in a cool place for two or three hours before it is used; make it into the form of small sausages or sausage-cakes, flour and fry them in butter, of a fine light brown; or throw them into boiling water for three minutes, drain, and let them become cold; dip them into egg and bread-crumbs, and broil them gently until they are lightly colored. A small bit should be cooked and tasted before the whole is put aside, that the seasoning may be heightened if required. The sausages thus made are very good.

Small plump oysters, three dozen and a half; bread-crumbs, ten ounces; beef-suet, ten ounces; seasoning of salt, cayenne, pounded mace, and nutmeg; unbeaten eggs, two, or yolks of three.

Obs.--The fingers should be well floured for making up these sausages.

1175. New England Chowder.--Have a good haddock, cod, or any other solid fish, cut it in pieces three inches square, put a pound of fat salt pork in strips into the pot, set it on hot coals, and fry out the oil. Take out the pork, and put in a layer of fish, over that a layer of onions in slices, then a layer of fish with slips of fat salt pork, then another layer of onions, and so on alternately, until your fish is consumed. Mix some flour with as much water as will fill the pot; season with black pepper and salt to your taste, and boil it for half an hour. Have ready some crackers soaked in water till they are a little softened; throw them into your chowder five minutes before you take it up. Serve in a tureen.

1176. Curing Hams--the Newbold Receipt.--Take seven pounds coarse salt, five pounds brown sugar, two ounces pearl-ash, 4 gallons of water. Boil all together, and scum the pickle well when cold. Put it on the meat. Hams remain in it eight weeks--beef three weeks. The above is for one hundred and ninety pounds weight.

1177. A Pickle that will keep for years, for hams, tongues, or beef, if boiled and skimmed between each parcel of them.--To two gallons of spring water put two pounds of coarse sugar, two pounds of bay and two and a half pounds of common salt, and half a pound of saltpetre, in a deep earthen glazed pan that will hold four gallons, and with a cover that will fit close. Keep the beef or hams as long as they will bear before you put them into the pickle; and sprinkle them with coarse sugar in a pan, from which they must drain. Rub the hams, &c., well with the pickle, and pack them in close, putting as much as the pan will hold, so that the pickle may cover them. The pickle is not to be boiled at first. A small ham may lie fourteen days, a large one three weeks; a tongue twelve days, and beef in proportion to its size. They will eat well out of the pickle without drying. When they are to be dried, let each piece be drained over the pan; and when it will drop no longer, take a clean sponge and dry it thoroughly. Six or eight hours will smoke them, and there should be only a little sawdust and wet straw burnt to do this; but if put into a baker's chimney, sew them in a coarse cloth, and hang them a week. Add two pounds of common salt and two pints of water every time you boil the liquor.

1178. To smoke Hams and Fish on a small scale.--Drive the ends out of an old hogshead or barrel; place this over a heap of sawdust of green hard wood, in which a bar of red-hot iron is buried; or take corn-cobs, which make the best smoke; place them in a clean iron kettle, the bottom of which is covered with burning coals; hang the hams, tongues, fish, &c., on sticks across the cask, and cover it, but not closely, that the cobs or sawdust may smoulder slowly, but not burn.

1179. Onion Sauce.--Peel the onions, and boil them tender; squeeze the water from them; chop them; and pour on them butter that has been carefully incited, together with a little good milk, instead of water. Boil it up once. A turnip boiled with the onions, makes them milder.

1180. Sauce Robert.--Cut into small dice, four or five large onions, and brown them in a stew-pan, with three ounces of butter, and a dessert-spoonful of flour. When of a deep yellow-brown, pour to them half a pint of beef or of veal-gravy, and let them simmer for fifteen minutes; skim the sauce; add a seasoning of salt and pepper, and, at the moment of serving, mix in a dessert-spoonful of made-mustard.

Large onions, four or five; butter, three ounces; flour, a dessert-spoonful: ten to fifteen minutes. Gravy, half a pint: fifteen minutes. Mustard, a dessert-spoonful.

1181. Tomato Sauce.--Crush half a dozen, more or less, of very ripe, red tomatoes; pick out the seeds, and squeeze the water from them; put them into a stew-pan, with two or three finely-sliced shalots, and a little gravy: simmer till nearly dry; when add half a pint of brown sauce, and simmer twenty minutes longer; then rub it through a tammy into a clean stew-pan; season with Cayenne pepper and salt, a little glaze, and lemon-juice; simmer a few minutes, and serve. Tarragon or Chili vinegar are sometimes added; and sliced onions may be substituted for the shalots.

1182. Brown Caper Sauce.--Thicken half a pint of good veal or beef-gravy, as directed for Sauce-Tournée; and add to it two table-spoonfuls of capers, and a dessert-spoonful of the pickle-liquor, or of Chili vinegar, with some Cayenne, if the former be used, and a proper seasoning of salt.

Thickened veal, or beef-gravy, half a pint; capers, two table-spoonfuls; caper liquor, or Chili vinegar, one dessert-spoonful.

1183. Horse-radish Sauce.--Scrape, finely, a stick of horse-radish into about half a pint of brown sauce and a gravy-spoonful of vinegar; simmer, and season with salt and sugar. This sauce is eaten with hot roast beef.

1184. Sauce for cold Roast Beef.--Mix scraped horse-radish, made-mustard, and vinegar, and sweeten with white sugar.

1185. Mint Sauce.--Mix vinegar and brown sugar, and let it stand at least an hour; then add chopped mint, and stir together. It should be very sweet.

1186. Mild Mustard.--Mustard, for instant use, should be mixed with milk, to which a spoonful or two of very thin cream may be added.

1187. Mustard, the common way.--The great art of mixing mustard, is to have it perfectly smooth, and of a proper consistency. The liquid with which it is moistened, should be added to it in small quantities, and the mustard should be well rubbed, and beaten with a spoon. Mix half a tea-spoonful of salt with two ounces of the flour of mustard, and stir to them, by degrees, sufficient boiling water to reduce it to the appearance of a thick batter. Do not put it into the mustard-glass until cold. Some persons like half a tea-spoonful of sugar, in the finest powder, mixed with it. It ought to be sufficiently diluted always to drop easily from the spoon.

1188. Parsley and Butter.--Scald a large handful of parsley in boiling water that has some salt in it; when tender, chop it fine, and stir it into some rather thick melted butter. There should be sufficient parsley to make the sauce green; and the parsley should not be put to the melted butter until about to be served, otherwise it will turn brown.

1189. To make Sage and Onion Stuffing, for Roast Pork, Geese, Ducks, &c.--To make this stuffing, take two middling-sized onions, peel them, and boil them for about ten minutes in plenty of water; next take as much dry sage-leaves, as, when rubbed into powder and sifted through the top of your flour-dredger, will fill a table-spoon. When the onion has boiled about ten minutes, squeeze it dry, chop it fine, and mix it with the crumbled sage; then add to them a tea-cupful of stale, white bread-crumbs, with a tea-spoonful of black pepper, a very little pinch of Cayenne, and a salt-spoonful of salt. Mix all well together, and it is ready.

1190. Sippets of Bread, for Garnishing.--Cut the crumb of a stale loaf in slices a quarter of an inch thick: form them into diamonds or half-diamonds, or in any other way: fry them in fresh butter. Dry them well, and place them around the dish to be garnished.

1191. Seasoning for Stuffing.--One pound of salt, dried and sifted; half an ounce of ground white pepper; two ounces of dried thyme; one ounce of dried marjoram; and one ounce of nutmeg. When this seasoning is used, parsley only is required to be chopped in sufficient quantity to make the stuffing green. The proportions are--half a pound of bread-crumbs; three eggs; a quarter of a pound of suet; half an ounce of seasoning; and the peel of half a lemon, grated.

1192. White Bread-Crumbs.--Put the crumb of very white bread into a slow oven or screen, and let it dry without color; beat and sift it; keep it in a close-covered pan in a dry, warm place: everything looks well, done with it. The crust may be dried, beaten, and sifted, for frying and garnishing.

When crumbs are not prepared till wanted, the bread is never in a proper condition; so that the crumbs are not only coarse and vulgar, but a sponge for fat, which shows bad taste, as well as being wasteful.

1193. Panada.--Is indispensable in making good farce of any kind; it is even better for it than Naples' biscuit, and is made as follows:--Steep a sufficient quantity of good stale bread-crumb in cream or stock; set it over the fire in a sauce-pan, and work it with a wooden spoon till it is as smooth and dry as a stiff paste: let it cool, and beat it with a yolk or two, according to the quantity, in a mortar: it is then ready to be put into all kinds of farces.

CAKES, BREAD, PIES, AND PUDDINGS.

1194. Wine Crust for Cakes or Pastry--a foreign Receipt.--Pour gradually to the well-beaten yolks of three fresh eggs, cleared from the specks, a quarter of a pint of light white wine (Marsala will serve for the purpose well enough), stirring them briskly as it is added; throw in half a salt-spoonful of salt, and an ounce and a half of pounded sugar; and when this last is dissolved, or nearly so, add the mixture to as much flour as will be required to form a smooth, firm paste: about three-quarters of a pound will be sufficient, unless the eggs should be of an unusual size. Roll it out, cut it asunder, and spread one half with eight ounces of butter, cut small; lay the other half of the paste upon it, and roll them together as lightly as possible; turn the paste on the board, and fold the two ends over each other, so as to make the whole of equal thickness; roll it quite thin, and repeat the folding once or twice, touching the paste in doing it as little as can be, and rolling it very lightly. It may be used for any kind of sweet pastry; or it may be served in the form of cakes, either iced or plain; these again may be adapted to the second course, by spreading the under-sides of one half with rich preserve, and pressing the others on them.

1195. Pic-nic Biscuits.--Work, very small, two ounces of fresh butter into a pound of flour; reduce to the finest powder, and mix, intimately, half a salt-spoonful of very pure carbonate of soda (Howard's is the best), with two ounces of sugar; mingle these thoroughly with the flour, and make up the paste with a few spoonfuls of milk; it will require scarcely a quarter of a pint. Knead it very smooth, roll it a quarter of an inch thick, cut it in rounds about the size of the top of a small wine-glass; roll these out thin, prick them well, lay them on lightly-floured tins, and bake them in a gentle oven until they are crisp quite through. As soon as they are cold put them into dry canisters. The sugar can be omitted at pleasure. If thin cream be used instead of milk, in making the paste, it will much enrich the biscuits; but this would often not be considered an improvement, as plain simple biscuits are generally most in favor.

Carraway seeds or ginger can be added, to vary these at pleasure. The proportion of soda used should be too small to be perceptible, even to the taste: it will be no disadvantage to use milk with it which is slightly acid.

1196. A good Soda Cake.--Rub half a pound of good butter into a pound of fine dry flour, and work it very small; mix well with these half a pound of sifted sugar, and pour to them first a quarter of a pint of boiling milk, and next three well-whisked eggs; add some grated nutmeg, or fresh lemon-rind, and eight ounces of currants; beat the whole well and lightly together, and the instant before the cake is moulded and set into the oven, stir to it a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda in the finest powder. Bake it from an hour to an hour and a quarter, or divide it in two, and allow from half to three-quarters of an hour for each cake.

Flour, one pound; butter, three ounces; sugar, eight ounces, milk, full quarter-pint; eggs, three; currants, half a pound; carbonate of soda, one tea-spoonful; one hour to one and a half. Or, divided, a half to three-quarters of an hour--moderate oven.

Obs.--This, if well made, resembles a pound-cake, but is much more wholesome. It is very good with two ounces less of butter, and with caraway-seeds or candied orange or citron substituted for the currants.

1197. To make Fine Pancakes, Fried without Butter or Lard.--Take a pint of cream and six new-laid eggs; beat them well together; put in a quarter of a pound of sugar and one nutmeg or a little beaten mace--which you please, and so much as will thicken--almost as much as ordinary pancake flour batter; your pan must be heated reasonably hot, and wiped with a clean cloth; this done, spread your batter thin over it, and fry.

1198. To make Loaves of Cheese-curd.--Take a porringer full of curds, and four eggs, whites and yolks, and as much flour as will make it stiff; then take a little ginger, nutmeg, and some salt; make them into loaves, and set them into an oven with a quick heat; when they begin to change color, take them out, and put melted butter to them, and some sack, and good store of sugar; and so serve.

1199. Cheap Ginger Biscuits.--Work into quite small crumbs three ounces of good butter, with two pounds of flour; then add three ounces of pounded sugar and two of ginger, in fine powder, and knead them into a stiff paste, with new milk. Roll it thin, cut out the biscuits with a cutter, and bake them in a slow oven until they are crisp quite through, but keep them of a pale color. A couple of eggs are sometimes mixed with the milk for them, but are no material improvement; an additional ounce of sugar may be used when a sweeter biscuit is liked. To make good ginger cakes, increase the butter to six ounces, and the sugar to eight, for each pound of flour, and wet the ingredients into a paste with eggs; a little lemon-grate will give it an agreeable flavor.

Biscuits--flour, two pounds; butter, three ounces; pounded sugar, three ounces; ginger, two ounces.

Cakes--flour, one pound; butter, six ounces; sugar, eight ounces; ginger, one ounce; three to four eggs; rind of half a lemon.

1200. Ginger Snaps.--Beat together half a pound of butter, and half a pound of sugar; mix with them half a pint of molasses, half a tea-cupful of ginger, and one pound and a half of flour.

1201. Gingerbread.--Mix together three and a half pounds of flour; three-quarters of a pound of butter; one pound of sugar; one pint of molasses; a quarter of a pound of ginger, and some ground orange-peel.

1202. Raspberry Cakes.--Take any quantity of fruit you please, weigh and boil it, and when mashed, and the liquor is washed, add as much sugar as was equal in weight to the raw fruit. Mix it very well off the fire till the whole is dissolved, then lay it on plates, and dry it in the sun. When the top part dries, cut it off into small cakes, and turn them on a fresh plate. When dry, put the whole in boxes, with layers of paper.

1203. Rock Cakes.--Mix together one pound of flour; half a pound of sugar; half a pound of butter; half a pound of currants or cherries, and four eggs, leaving out the whites of two; a little wine and candied lemon-peel are a great improvement.

1204. Cup Cakes.--Mix together five cups of flour; three cups of sugar; one cup of butter; one cup of milk; three eggs, well beaten; one wine-glass of wine; one of brandy, and a little cinnamon.

1205. Jumbles.--Take one pound of loaf-sugar, pounded fine; one pound and a quarter of flour; three-quarters of a pound of butter; four eggs, beaten light, and a little rose-water and spice; mix them well, and roll them in sugar.

1206. Sponge Cake.--Take the weight of the eggs in sugar; half their weight in flour, well sifted; to twelve eggs, add the grated rind of three lemons, and the juice of two. Beat the eggs carefully, white and yolks separately, before they are used. Stir the materials thoroughly together, and bake in a quick oven.

1207. Apple Fritters.--Pare and core some fine large pippins, and cut them into round slices. Soak them in wine, sugar, and nutmeg, for two or three hours. Make a batter of four eggs; a table-spoonful of rose-water; a table-spoonful of wine; a table-spoonful of milk; thicken with enough flour, stirred in by degrees, to make a batter; mix it two or three hours before it is wanted, that it may be light. Heat some butter in a frying pan; dip each slice of apple separately in the batter, and fry them brown; sift pounded sugar, and grate nutmeg over them.

1208. A Charlotte Russe.--It is very difficult to prepare this delicate dish, and we advise all inexperienced house-keepers not to undertake it without the superintendence of a professed cook.

Extract the flavor from a vanilla-bean, by boiling it in half a pint of milk. The milk must then be strained; and, when cold, mix with it a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar. Beat the yolks of four eggs very light, and stir them into the mixture. Heat it over the fire for five minutes, until it becomes a custard, but take great care that it does not boil. Boil an ounce of isinglass with a pint of water. The isinglass must be thoroughly dissolved before it is fit for use, and one-half of the water boiled away. The custard being cold, drain the isinglass into it, and stir them hard together. Leave them to cool, while you prepare the rest of the mixture. Whip a quart of cream to a froth, (the cream should be rich,) and mix it with the custard; in whipping the cream, great care should be taken to make it quite light; the safest way is, to remove the froth as fast as it gathers, with a strainer, until the whole is whipped.

Take two round slices of almond sponge-cake; glaze them with the beaten white of egg mixed with sugar. Lay one on the bottom of a circular mould, and reserve the other for the top.

Cut some more sponge-cake into long pieces; glaze them carefully with the egg, and line the sides of the mould with them. Each piece should lap a little over the other, or the form will not be perfect. The custard will by this time be just beginning to congeal; pour it gently into the mould, and cover the top with the piece of cake which has already been prepared. The cake around the sides must be trimmed evenly, so that the upper piece will fit without leaving any vacancies.

Pound some ice, and throw it into a tub, covering it well with coarse salt. The mould should then be set into the midst of this ice, and must remain there an hour. Prepare an icing with powdered sugar and the beaten white of egg, flavoring it with lemon-juice, or essence of lemon, orange, or rose-water, according to the taste. The Charlotte Russe is then turned out upon a handsome dish, and iced over. It should be moved about as little as possible; and, to ensure success in preparing it, the utmost care must be taken to follow the above directions.

At large parties, a Charlotte Russe is as indispensable on the supper-table as ice-cream.

1209. Batter Pudding.--Take six ounces of fine flour, a little salt, and three eggs; beat it up well with a little milk, added by degrees till the batter is quite smooth: make it the thickness of cream: put it into a buttered pie-dish, and bake three-quarters of an hour; or, in a buttered and floured basin, tied over tight with a cloth: boil one hour and a half or two hours.

Any kind of ripe fruit that you like may be added to the batter--only you must make the batter a little stiffer. Blueberries, or finely-chopped apple, are most usually liked.

1210. French Batter, (for frying Vegetables, and for Apple, Peach, or Orange Fritters.)--Cut two ounces of good butter into small bits; pour on it less than a quarter of a pint of boiling water; and, when it is dissolved, add three-quarters of a pint of cold water, so that the whole shall not be quite milk-warm: mix it then by degrees, and very smoothly, with twelve ounces of fine, dry flour, and a small pinch of salt, if the batter be for fruit-fritters, but with more, if for meat or vegetables. Just before it is used, stir into it the whites of two eggs beaten to a solid froth; but, previously to this, add a little water, should it appear too thick, as some flour requires more liquid than others, to bring it to a proper consistency.

Butter, two ounces; water, from three-quarters to nearly a pint; little salt; flour, three-quarters of a pound; whites of two eggs, beaten to snow.

1211. Terrines of Rice, sweet and savory.--Wash four ounces of Carolina rice in several waters, and leave it to soak for ten minutes; then put it into a common Nottingham jar, with a cover, and in shape, larger, considerably, in the middle than at the top--as those of narrower form and proportionably greater height will not answer so well. This jar may contain one quart or two, as the stove-oven in which it is to be placed, may permit. The smaller size has, on compulsion, been used for the present and following receipts--the iron-plate in the centre of the only oven which the writer had at command, preventing a larger one from standing in it. Pour on the rice an exact pint of new milk; add two ounces of pounded sugar, the slightest pinch of salt, and any flavor which may be liked. Stir the whole well for a minute or two; put on the cover of the jar; make a bit of paste with flour and water, sufficient to form a wide, thick band; moisten the side which is laid on the jar, and bind the edges of the cover and the jar together securely with it; tie brown paper over, and set it into the coolest part of the oven of the kitchen-range. Bake the rice gently for two hours and a quarter at the least, and turn the jar half-round once or twice while it is in the oven. Stir it lightly up, heap it on a hot dish, and send it to table. A compôte of fresh fruit is an admirable accompaniment to it.

1212. Nutmeg Pudding.--Pound, fine, two large or three small nutmegs; melt three pounds of butter, and stir into it half a pound of loaf-sugar, a little wine, the yolks of five eggs, well beaten, and the nutmegs. Bake on a puff-paste.

1213. Wine Jelly.--Soak four ounces of gelatine in one quart of cold water, for half an hour. In the meantime, mix with two quarts of cold water, six table-spoonfuls of brandy; one pint of white-wine; six lemons, cut up with the peel on; the whites and shells of six eggs, the whites slightly beaten, the shells crushed; three pounds of white sugar: then mix the gelatine with the other ingredients, and put them over the fire. Let it boil, without stirring, for twenty minutes. Strain it through a flannel-bag, without squeezing. Wet the mould in cold water. Pour the jelly in, and leave it in a cool place for three hours.

1214. Economics.--It is often a matter of great convenience as well as of economy, to give a new and presentable form to the remains of dishes which have already appeared at table: the following hints may, therefore, be not unacceptable to some of our readers.

No. 1.--Calf's-feet jelly and good blanc-mange are excellent when just melted and mixed together, whether in equal or unequal proportions. They should be heated only sufficient to liquify them, or the acid of the jelly might curdle the blanc-mange. Pour this last, when melted, into a deep earthen bowl, and add the jelly to it in small portions, whisking them briskly together as it is thrown in. A small quantity of prepared cochineal--which may be procured from a chemist's--will serve to improve or to vary the color, when required. Many kinds of creams and custards also may be blended advantageously with the blanc-mange, after a little additional isinglass has been dissolved in it, to give sufficient firmness to the whole. It must be observed, that, though just liquid, either jelly or blanc-mange must be as nearly cold as it will become without thickening and beginning to set, before it is used for this receipt.

A sort of marbled or Mosaic mass is sometimes made by shaking together, in a mould, remnants of various-colored blanc-manges, cut nearly of the same size, and then filling it up with some clear jelly.

No. 2.--When a small part only of an open tart has been eaten, divide the remainder equally into triangular slices, place them at regular intervals round a dish, and then fill the intermediate spaces, and cover the tart entirely, with slightly-sweetened and well-drained whipped cream.

1215. Pumpkin Pie.--Stew the pumpkin dry, and make it like squash pie, only season rather higher. In the country, where this real Yankee pie is prepared in perfection, ginger is almost always used with other spices. There, too, part cream, instead of milk, is mixed with the pumpkin, which gives it a richer flavor.

1216. Rhubarb Stalks, or Persian Apple--Is the earliest ingredient for pies, which the spring offers. The skin should be carefully stripped, and the stalks cut into small bits, and stewed very tender. These are dear pies, for they take an enormous quantity of sugar: seasoned like apple pies. Gooseberries, currants, &c., are stewed, sweetened, and seasoned like apple pies, in proportions suited to the sweetness of the fruit; there is no way to judge but by your own taste. Always remember, it is more easy to add seasoning, than to diminish it.

1217. Superlative Mince-meat, for Pies.--Take four large lemons, with their weight of golden pippins, pared and cored, of jar-raisins, currants, candied citron and orange-rind, and the finest suet, and a fourth-part more of pounded sugar. Boil the lemons tender, chop them small; but be careful first to extract all the pips; add them to the other ingredients, after all have been prepared with great nicety, and mix the whole well with from three to four glasses of good brandy. Apportion salt and spice by the preceding receipt. We think that the weight of one lemon, in meat, improves this mixture; or, in lieu of it, a small quantity of crushed macaroons, added just before it is baked.

1218. Rolls.--Rub into a pound of sifted flour, two ounces of butter; beat the whites of three eggs to a froth, and add a table-spoonful of good yeast, a little salt, and sufficient warm milk to make a stiff dough. Cover and put it where it will be kept warm, and it will rise in an hour. Then make it into rolls, or round cakes; put them on a floured tin, and bake in a quick oven or stove. They will be done in ten or fifteen minutes.

1219. To make Yeast in the Turkish manner.--Take a small tea-cupful of split or bruised peas, and pour on it a pint of boiling water, and set it in a vessel all night on the hearth, or any warm place. The next morning the water will have a froth on it, and be good yeast, and will make as much bread as two quartern loaves.

1220. Dyspepsia Bread.--The following receipt for making bread, has proved highly salutary to persons afflicted with dyspepsia, viz:--Three quarts unbolted wheat meal; one quart soft water, warm, but not hot; one gill of fresh yeast; one gill of molasses, or not, as may suit the taste; one teaspoonful of saleratus.

This will make two loaves, and should remain in the oven at least one hour; and when taken out, placed where they will cool gradually. Dyspepsia crackers can be made with unbolted flour, water, and saleratus.

1221. Unfermented Bread.--This keeps moist longer than bread made with yeast, and is more sweet and digestible. The brown bread made in this way is particularly recommended for dyspeptics. Take four pounds of flour, half an ounce avoirdupois of muriatic acid; the same of carbonate of soda; about a quart of water. First mix the soda and flour well together by rubbing in a pan; pour the acid into the water, and stir it well together. Mix all together to the required consistence and bake in a hot oven immediately. If instead of flour, unbolted meal should be used, take three pounds of meal; half an ounce avoirdupois of muriatic acid; the same of carbonate of soda; and water enough to make it of a proper consistence. Mix in the same way.

1222. Rice Caudle.--When the water boils, pour into it some ground rice mixed with a little cold water; when of a proper consistency, add sugar, lemon-peel, and cinnamon, and a glass of brandy to a quart. Boil all smooth.

Or:--Soak some Carolina rice in water an hour, strain it, and put two spoonfuls of the rice into a pint and a quarter of milk; simmer till it will pulp through a sieve, then put the pulp and milk into the saucepan, with a bruised clove, and a bit of white sugar. Simmer ten minutes: if too thick, add a spoonful or two of milk, and serve with thin toast.

1223.--Johnny Cakes.--Sift a quart of corn meal into a pan; make a hole in the middle, and pour in a pint of warm water. Mix the meal and water gradually into a batter, adding a tea-spoonful of salt; beat it very quickly, and for a long time, till it becomes quite light; then spread it thick and even on a stout piece of smooth board; place it upright on the hearth before a clear fire, with something to support the board behind, and bake it well; cut it into squares, and split and butter them hot.

They may also be made with a quart of milk, three eggs, one tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda, and one tea-cupful of wheaten flour; add Indian corn-meal sufficient to make a batter like that of pancakes, and either bake it in buttered pans, or upon a griddle, and eat them with butter.

1224. Green Corn.--Must be boiled in clear water, with salt, from twenty minutes to half an hour; if old, it will require a longer time. It must be sent to table directly it is done, as it loses its sweetness by either boiling after it is done, or standing when dished.

(A tea-spoonful of saleratus boiled with corn is said to prevent sickness.)

1225. Corn Oysters.--One pint of grated green corn, one cup of flour, one dessert-spoonful of salt, one tea-spoonful of pepper, one egg.

Mix the ingredients together, drop, and fry them in hot lard. In taste they resemble fried oysters. They are an excellent relish for breakfast, and a good side-dish for dinner.

1226. Sackatash, or Corn and Beans.--Boil three pints of shelled beans, or a quarter of a peck of string beans, half an hour, pour off the water. Cut the corn off of four dozen ears--put it in the pot among the beans, add salt and pepper, and cover them with boiling water--boil all together twenty minutes. Rub flour into a large piece of butter and stir it in, then let it boil up once. Pour it into your tureen and send it to table.

1227. Winter Sackatash.--As in winter the beans and corn are both dried, they will have to be soaked over night. Par-boil the beans in one or two waters, then add the corn, and boil all together until the beans are boiled to pieces, which will be several hours. Add a small piece of loaf sugar. Before dishing it for table, mix a large piece of butter with flour, stir it in and let it boil.

1228. To make Curry Powders.--Take one ounce of ginger, the same of coriander-seed, half an ounce of cayenne pepper, and two ounces of fine pale turmeric; these ingredients to be pounded separately to a fine powder, and then warmed by the fire, and mixed together. Put the powder into a wide-mouthed bottle, cork it well down, and put it into a dry place.

Those who dislike the flavor of turmeric may substitute saffron.

1229. To prepare a Curry.--The meat should be fresh and free from bone. Cut it into pieces which can be easily served. To each pound of meat add a table-spoonful of curry powder, and about half the quantity of flour, and a little salt; mix these together, and rub a portion of it upon the meat before it is fried, the remainder afterwards. Fry the meat in a little butter. Fry onions a light brown, with a clove of garlic if approved; drain the fat from both the meat and onions; put them into a stewpan, and cover with boiling water; stew for twenty minutes, then rub the remainder of the powder smooth with a little cold water, add it, and let it stew for an hour, or according to the time necessary for the meat to be well done. If no other acid is used, stir in a little lemon-juice just before serving: place it in the centre of the dish, and put carefully boiled rice round it.

1230. Lord Clive's Curry.--Slice six onions, one green apple, and a clove of garlic; stew them in a little good stock until they will pulp, then add one tea-spoonful of curry-powder, a few table-spoonfuls of stock, a little salt, and a little cayenne pepper, half a salt-spoonful of each; stew in this gravy any kind of meat cut into small pieces, adding a piece of butter, the size of a walnut, rolled in flour.

1231. To free Molasses from its sharp taste, and to render it fit to be used instead of Sugar.--Take twenty-four pounds of molasses, twenty-four pounds of water, and six pounds of charcoal, coarsely pulverized: mix them in a kettle, and boil the whole over a slow wood fire. When the mixture has boiled half an hour, pour it into a flat vessel, in order that the charcoal may subside to the bottom: then pour off the liquid, and place it over the fire once more, that the superfluous water may evaporate, and the molasses be brought to their former consistence. Twenty-four pounds of molasses will produce twenty-four pounds of syrup.

1232. To make Apple Molasses.--Take new sweet cider just from the press, made from sweet apples, and boil it down as thick as West India molasses. It should be boiled in brass, and not burned, as that would injure the flavor. It will keep in the cellar, and is said to be as good, and for many purposes better than West India molasses.

1233. To dress Chestnuts for Dessert.--Let them be well roasted, and the husks taken off. Dissolve a quarter pound of sugar in a wine-glassful of water, and the juice of a lemon. Put this and the chestnuts into a saucepan over a slow fire for ten minutes; add sufficient orange-flower water to flavor the syrup; serve in a deep dish, and grate sugar over them. To be handed round whilst quite hot.

1234. To improve Claret Wine when acid.--Place the cask on a stand for refining, put into it a quarter pound of chalk broken into small pieces. Let it remain one day, and then refine with the whites of six eggs, the shells broken, and a handful of salt; all these are to be mixed with some of the wine, and then thrown into the cask. The shells are not to be powdered, but simply crushed in the hand. The wine will be fit for bottling in two weeks. When bottled, it should be laid on the side. The bungs to be out as short a time as possible.

1235. To improve Home-made wines.--When there is a tendency to acidity in wine, add to it sugar-candy in the proportion of a pound to every four gallons; dissolve it, and put it into the cask, incorporating it well.

Poor wines may be improved by the addition of bruised raisins. If one ounce of powdered roche-alum be put into a cask of four gallons of wine, it will make it fine and brisk in ten days. Ripe medlars, or bruised mustard-seed, tied in a bag, will remove mustiness, or other disagreeable taste.

Pricked wines may be improved, if not recovered, by being racked off into a cask that has contained the same kind of wine. The cask should be first matched or sulphured; and, to every ten gallons of wine, put two ounces of oyster-shell powder, and half an ounce of bay-salt; stir it, and leave it a few days to fine; after which, rack it into another cask, also matched.

Burn dry walnuts over a charcoal fire, and when they are well lit, throw them into the wine, and bung up; in forty-eight hours they will correct the acidity. One walnut will suffice for every gallon of wine.

If bottled wine be ropy, shake it for twenty minutes, uncork it, and pour off the froth or scum, when the rest of the wine will be drinkable.

1236. Casking.--The casks should be washed with hot salt and water, then with hot water, and lastly with a portion of the fermented liquor made to boil.

After the liquor is removed into the cask, it will slowly ferment, and some will evaporate. The cask should, however, be kept filled near the bung-hole, else the scum cannot be thrown out.

When the fret subsides, close the bung-hole, and bore a hole for a peg, to be withdrawn occasionally, else the cask may burst.

In the following Spring, determine whether you bottle or keep in wood another year; but wines that have been properly fermented, and promise well, will be improved by remaining in the cask another year. Then, if the wine wants rich flavor, add to twenty gallons, five pounds of sugar-candy.

1237. Bottling.--Brisk wines should be bottled on the approach of Spring.

If the wine be not fine enough, draw off a quart, in which dissolve isinglass in the proportion of half an ounce to twenty gallons, and pour the solution in at the bung-hole. In about three weeks, the liquor will be sufficiently clear for bottling.

In drawing off, be careful to tap the cask above the lees. The wine, to be fit for bottling, should be fine and brilliant, else it will never brighten after. When bottled, it should be stored in a cool cellar, and the bottles laid on their sides, and in sawdust; but, on no account set upright.

In making wines, it is a good plan to use two casks, one a very small one, from which the larger one may be filled up, during the fermentation.

1238. Fining for Wine.--Put an ounce of isinglass into a quart jug, with one pint of wine; stir it twice or thrice a day, and it will soon dissolve; when strain it through a sieve. A pint of this fining will be sufficient for a cask of twenty gallons.

When the fining is put into the cask, stir it up with a stick, taking care not to touch the bottom, so as to disturb the lees. Fill up the cask, if necessary, bung it down, and in a week the wine will be fit for bottling.

For white wine only, add and mix, as above, a quarter of a pint of milk to every gallon of wine. It may also be fined with the whites of eggs, beaten up with some wine, in the proportion of four whites to sixteen gallons of wine.

1239. To sweeten Casks.--If a cask, after the contents are drunk out, be well stopped, and the lees be allowed to remain in it till it is again to be used, it will only be necessary to scald it; taking care, before you fill it, to see that the hoops are well driven. Should the air get into the cask, it will become musty, and scalding will not improve it; the surest way will be then to take out the head of the cask, to be shaved, then to burn it a little, and scald it for use. Or, put into the cask some quick lime and cold water, bung it down, shake it for some time, and then scald it; or, burn a match in it, and scald it.

Or, mix half a pint of the strongest sulphuric acid in an open vessel, with a quart of water, put it into the cask, and roll it well about; next day, add one pound of chalk, bung it down, and in three or four days the cask should be washed out with boiling water.

To prepare a match, melt some brimstone, and dip into it a long narrow piece of coarse linen cloth, or brown paper; when to be used, set fire to the match, put it in at the bung-hole of the cask, fastening one end under the bung, and let it remain, for a few hours.

1240. A Filtering Bag.--Will be useful in fining wines: it may be made of a yard of moderately-fine flannel, laid sloping, so as to have the bottom very narrow, and the top the full breadth; strongly sew up the side, and fold and sew the upper part of the bag about a broad wooden hoop, to be suspended by a cord fastened in three or four places.

1241. Coloring Wines.--In the coloring of wines, many substances have been used, and it is desirable to select such as may also communicate an agreeable flavor. Red colors are easily obtained from beet-root, logwood, or the berries of the elder; and every variety of yellow may be produced by the use of burnt sugar, which also gives an agreeable bitterness.

There is no end to the materials which have been used to give a flavor to wine. The flowers of elder, cowslips, clove-pinks, and mignonette, are well known. The shavings of orris-root, in the proportion of half an ounce to twenty gallons, will be found to communicate an agreeable perfume. The shavings should be tied in a linen bag, and suspended in the cask by a string, so as to be removable at pleasure, if, upon trial, it is found that the flavor is likely to be too predominant.

1242. To check Fermentation.--Sulphate of potash will stop fermentation. One dram is sufficient for a pipe of liquor. It will be useful to the confectioner to know, that by the use of the same salt, the fermentation of syrups and preserves may also be effectually prevented.

1243. Currant Shrub; easily made.--To every quart of juice, add one pound of sugar, and one gill of brandy. Bottle and cork it tight. Do not put it over the fire.

1244. Damson Wine.--To four gallons of boiling water, add a peck of damsons; stir this liquor twice every day. Let it stand for three days, and then strain the whole through a lawn sieve. Add nine pounds of loaf sugar, and three spoonsful of yeast; after it has worked in a tub for three days, turn it into a cask, and add three quarts of elder syrup. Rack the wine in a fortnight. Put in two lemons, sliced, a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, rubbed on the peel, and two pounds of raisins, chopped. Stop it close till March, and then bottle it.

1245. Red Cherry Wine.--Strip, when full ripe, any quantity of the finest red, or Kentish cherries, from their stalks, and stamp them, in the same manner as apples for cider, till the stones are broken. Put the whole into a tub, and cover it up closely for three days and nights; then press it in a cider-press; put the liquor again into a tub, and let it stand, covered as before, two days longer. Carefully take off the scum, without in the smallest degree disturbing the liquor, which is to be poured off the lees, into a different tub. After it has thus stood to clear another two days, it must again be cautiously skimmed, and the clear liquid poured off as before. If the cherries are, as they ought to be, quite ripe and sweet, a pound and a half of good sugar will be sufficient for each gallon of juice, which is to be well stirred in, and the liquor again closely covered up, without being any more disturbed till the next day; then pour it carefully from the lees, as before, put it to stand, in the same manner, another day; and then, with the like care, pour it off into the cask, or casks, in which it is intended to be kept. The above process must be often repeated, should the lees appear gross and likely to make the liquor fret. When entirely settled, stop it up, for at least seven or eight months; then, if perfectly fine, put it in bottles; if not, drain it off into another vessel, and stop it up for six months longer, before you venture to bottle it, when it will want only age to equal, if not exceed, all foreign wines. It will, however, be best not to drink it till at least ten or twelve months old.

1246. Rich Morella Cherry Wine.--Having picked off from their stalks the ripest and soundest morella cherries, bruise them well, without breaking the stones, and let the whole stand twenty-four hours in an open vessel. Then press out all the juice, and for every gallon, add two pounds of fine loaf sugar. Put this wine into a cask, and when the fermentation ceases, stop it close. Let it stand three or four months, then bottle it, and in two months more it will be fit to drink. Some crack the stones, and hang them, with the bruised kernels, in a bag, from the bung, while the wine remains in the cask.

1247. Incomparable Apricot Wine.--Take eight pounds of ripe apricots, slice them into two gallons of spring water, and add five pounds of powdered loaf sugar. Boil them together for some time, without taking off the scum; then skim it off as it continues to rise, and put it in a clean sieve, over a pan, to save the liquor which comes from it. When the boiling liquor is as clear as it can be made from the dross of the sugar, pour it, with the drainings of the sieve, hot on the kernels of the apricots, which must be put with the stones into the pan, where it is intended the wine should be left to cool. Stir all well together, cover it up closely till it grows quite cool, and then work it with a toast and yeast. In two or three days, when it is found to be settled, fine it off into a cask, leaving it to ferment as long as it will. After it has done working, pour in a bottle of old hock, mountain, or sherry, and stop it up for six months; then, if very fine, bottle it, and keep it twelve months. This is indeed a most delicious wine.

1248. To detect Sugar of Lead in Wines.--The tincture of orpiment converts wine so adulterated to a black color.

1249. Orange Wine.--To ten gallons of water put twenty-eight pounds of loaf sugar, and the whites of six eggs. Boil them together for three-quarters of an hour, keeping the liquor well skimmed all the time, and then pour it hot into a tub, or large pan, over the peels of fifty Seville oranges. When it is nearly cold, take three spoonsful of yeast, spread on a piece of toasted bread, and put in the liquor to make it ferment. After it has stood two or three days, pour it from the peels into the cask, with a gallon of orange juice, which takes about a hundred and twenty oranges. Let it remain in the cask till it has done hissing, when the fermentation will have ceased. Endeavor to proportion the size of the cask to the quantity, as it must be kept filled, so as to work out at the bung-hole. When the fermentation is over, draw off as much of the wine as will admit one quart of brandy for every five gallons of wine. It will be fit to bottle, or drink from the cask, in four or five months. This wine, if carefully made, according to these plain directions, will be found exquisitely delicious; and were it kept four or five years, would far surpass most of the best foreign wines, as they are usually sold in England.

1250. Red Currant Wine.--To eight gallons of water add twenty-four pounds of loaf sugar; boil the syrup and skim it, till the scum disappears. Have ready, picked from the stalks, two gallons of red currants, taking care not to bruise them. Pour the syrup, boiling hot, on the currants. Let it all stand till nearly cold; then add a teacupful of yeast. Let it ferment for two days; then strain it through a sieve, into the cask, and when the fermentation entirely ceases, bung it tight. It will be ready to bottle at the end of two months. Into each bottle put a small lump of sugar.

1251. Raisin Wine.--To every gallon of water weigh seven pounds of raisins; pick them from the stalks, and put them into a tub; pour the water on the fruit, and let it stand a fortnight or three weeks, stirring it several times a day. Strain it, and press the fruit very dry through hair bags, then put it into a barrel, but do not stop it close. In about four months rack it, and then put a little fresh fruit, and some brandy, into the barrel. A quart of brandy, and eight or ten pounds of fruit, are sufficient for twenty-five or thirty gallons of wine. When the wine is racked, draw it off into a tub, and pass the sediment that remains through a flannel bag; the head of the barrel must then be taken out, and the barrel rinsed with a little of the wine. After the head is again put in, add the brandy and fruit. Put the bung in for a little time, but not very tight. It will be necessary to refine the wine with isinglass, about three weeks before it is bottled, which should not be in less than a year. One ounce of isinglass, dissolved in half a pint of wine, and stirred into the barrel, will be sufficient.

Before the water is poured on the fruit, it should be boiled with the stalks, and with hops; the latter in the proportion of a quarter of a pound to every thirty gallons of water. Strain the liquor, let it grow cold, and then add it to the fruit.

1252. Spruce Wine.--To every gallon of water take a pound and a half of honey, and half a pound of fine starch. Before the starch is mixed with the honey-syrup, it must be reduced to a transparent jelly, by boiling it with part of the water purposely reserved;--a quarter of a pound of essence of spruce must be used to five gallons of water, and when sufficiently stirred and incorporated, pour the wine into the cask. Then add a quarter of a pint of good ale-yeast, shake the cask well, and let it work for three or four days, after which, bung it. It may be bottled in a few days, and in ten days afterwards, will be fit to drink. When this wine is bunged, a quarter of an ounce of isinglass, first dissolved in a little of the warmed liquor, may be stirred in by way of fining it. In cold weather, the quantity of yeast should be increased: in warm weather, very little ferment is requisite.

1253. American Currant Wine.--To one gallon of currant juice add two of water; to each gallon of this mixture add three pounds and a quarter of sugar, a gill of brandy, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered alum: put the whole into a clean cask, in March draw off, and add another gill of brandy to each gallon.

1254. Rich Mead.--Mix well the whites of six eggs in twelve gallons of water; and to this mixture, when it has boiled half an hour and been well skimmed, add thirty-six pounds of the finest honey, with the rinds of two dozen lemons. Let them boil together some little time, and on the liquor's becoming sufficiently cool, work it with a little ale-yeast. Put it with the lemon peel into a seasoned barrel, which must be filled up as it flows over with some of the reserved liquor; and when the hissing ceases, drive the bung close. After the wine has stood five or six months, bottle it for use. If intended to be kept several years, put in a pound more honey for every gallon of water.

1255. Red and White Mead with Raspberries and Currants.--For every gallon of wine to be made, take one pound and a half of honey, half an ounce of tartar, or Bologna argol, and three-quarters of a pound of fruit. If for white wine, white argol should be used with white currants; if for red wine, red argol with red currants or raspberries. Prepare the honey by mixing it with as much water as will, when added to the juice of the fruit (allowing for diminution by boiling, &c.), make the proposed quantity of wine. This being well boiled and clarified, infuse in it a moderate quantity of rosemary leaves, lavender, and sweet-brier, and when they have remained for two days, strain the liquor, and add it to the expressed juice of the fruit, put in the dissolved argol, stir the whole well together, and leave it to ferment. In two or three days, put it in a seasoned barrel; keep filling it up, as the liquor flows over; and on its ceasing to work, sink in it a muslin bag of Seville orange and lemon peel, with cinnamon, cloves and nutmegs, and closely bung the cask. If kept for six months or more in the wood, and at least nine in bottles, this wine will be excellent, whether red or white. In a similar way may be made all sorts of fruit wines, thus substituting honey for sugar.

1256. Nectar.--Take half a pound of raisins of the sun, chopped, one pound of powdered loaf sugar, two lemons, sliced, and the peel of one. Put them into an earthen vessel with two gallons of water, the water having been boiled half an hour; and put them in while the water is boiling. Let the whole stand three or four days, stirring it twice a day; then strain it, and in a fortnight it will be ready for use.

1257. Syrup of Cloves, Cinnamon, or Mace.--All these syrups are made exactly on the same plan.--Take two ounces of either cloves, cinnamon, or mace, well pounded, and put it into a pint of boiling water in a small stewpan. Let it boil half an hour, pass the liquor through a hair sieve, dissolve in it a pound and a half of powdered loaf sugar, clear it over the fire, with the white of an egg beaten to a froth, and a little rose or orange-flower water, and let it simmer gently till the syrup is formed and clear. When quite cold, put it in bottles, which must be closely corked.

1258. Syrup of Ginger.--Steep an ounce and a half of beaten ginger in a quart of boiling water, closely covered up for twenty-four hours; then, straining off the infusion, make it into a syrup, by adding at least two pounds of fine loaf sugar, dissolved, and boiled up in a hot water bath.

1259. French Rossolis, perfumed with Flowers.--Boil two quarts of spring water, to take off the hardness; then take it off the fire, and when it is only lukewarm, throw in a pinch of the most odoriferous flowers, and let them infuse till the liquid is cold, and the fragrance all extracted. Then take away the flowers with a skimmer, strain the liquid, and add to it a pint of clarified syrup, and half a pint of spirits of wine, and a rossolis, or sun-dew, will be produced.

1260. Bergamot Water.--Make a pint of syrup; and when cold, press into it half a dozen fine lemons, with, or without, a Seville orange, or two China oranges, adding as much water as may be necessary; then putting in a tea-spoonful of genuine essence of bergamot, run the whole through a lawn sieve, and it is immediately ready for drinking.

1261. Peach and Apricot Waters.--Both these waters, as well as those of other fruits, are readily made by mixing two or three table-spoonfuls of the respective jams with a few blanched and pounded bitter almonds, lemon-juice, and cold spring water, with powdered loaf sugar to your taste. On being run through a lawn sieve, these waters are immediately fit to drink.

1262. Persian and Turkish Sherbet.--The method pursued by the Persians, Turks, &c., is to extract the fragrant, rich, and acidulated juices of the finest flowers and fruits, and make them, with the addition of sugar, into what we call fruit jellies or lozenges, which are dissolved in the purest spring water, and thus form the agreeable beverage denominated sherbet. For example, they evaporate the purified juice of citrons in a water bath with a slow fire, till it becomes of nearly the consistence of honey, melting, in the mean time, some finely powdered loaf sugar in a silver dish, and continually stirring it with a flat wooden spoon; when the sugar is very dry, they sprinkle over it, a little at a time, the prepared juice of citron; continuing to stir it till the whole has sufficient moisture to form a paste, which they make into lozenges, and keep in a dry, and rather warm situation; in this way, they prepare all the acid juices, such as barberries, lemons, gooseberries, &c.: with the less acid and more delicately flavored fruits, they proceed differently, only well heating the sugar in a silver dish, adding to it by degrees the fresh juice, and stirring it constantly till a paste is formed. This must not be made into lozenges till perfectly dry, and they must be put into a box lined with paper, and kept in a dry place. They are variously prepared with orange-flowers, roses, &c. The Persians and Turks are said to prepare a favorite sherbet with violet vinegar, pomegranate-juice, and sugar formed into lozenges.

1263. Hypocras, as made at Paris.--Put into a quart of the best and strongest red wine half a pound of powdered loaf sugar, half a dram of cinnamon, a pinch of coriander seeds, two white pepper-corns, a little Seville orange peel, a blade of mace, a small quantity of lemon-juice, and four cloves; the spices, &c., being all previously beaten in a mortar. When the whole has infused three or four hours, add a table-spoonful of milk; and filtering the liquid through a flannel bag, it will prove excellent for present or future use.

1264. Strawberry Sherbet.--On half a pound of sugar of the best quality, broken into lumps, pour a quart of spring water. Let it stand until nearly dissolved; give it a stir, and boil it for about ten minutes. Take off the scum, and throw into the syrup a pint and a half of sound ripe strawberries, measured without their stalks. Let these simmer gently until they shrink much and begin to break, and keep them well skimmed, or the sherbet will not be clear. Before it is taken from the fire, add the strained juice of a sound fresh lemon, then turn the preparation into a jelly-bag, or let it stand for a quarter of an hour, and then strain it through a muslin folded in four. This latter method is generally quite sufficient to render any liquid not thickened by the over-boiled pulp of fruit, quite transparent. When strawberries abound, a quart, or even more, may be used for this preparation; and the proportion of sugar can always be increased or diminished to the taste. To give the sherbet an Oriental character, boil in it the petals of six or eight orange, lemon, or citron blossoms; or orange-flower water may be used.

1265. Lemonade (Italian).--Two dozen lemons must be pared and pressed; the juice should be poured on the peels, and remain on them all night; in the morning add two pounds of loaf sugar, a quart of good white wine, and three quarts of boiling water. When these ingredients are blended, add a quart of boiling milk. Strain the whole through a jelly-bag till it becomes quite clear.

1266. Lemonade.--One of the best methods of making lemonade is to prepare a syrup of sugar and water, over a clear fire, skimming it quite clean; to this add the juice of any number of lemons, according to the quantity you wish to make; also some of the rinds.

1267. Rich Orangeade.--Steep the yellow rinds of six China, and two Seville oranges in a quart of boiling water, closely covered up for five or six hours; then make a syrup with a pound of sugar, and three pints of water, mix the infusion and syrup together, press in the juice of a dozen China oranges, and the two Seville oranges from which the rind was taken, stir the whole well together, and run it through a jelly-bag; afterwards, if agreeable, a little orange-flower water, with some capillaire syrup, may be added, should sweetness be wanted. Two lemons may be used, as well as the two Seville oranges; but care should be taken that the flavor of the lemons does not predominate.

1268. Orgeat Paste.--This paste, which will keep twelve months, is nearly as soon made into orgeat as the orgeat syrup. The mode of preparing it in Paris, is by well pounding blanched almonds with a little water, to prevent their turning to oil; then adding half the weight of the almonds in pounded sugar, and mixing both together into a paste.

Of this paste, when wanted, mix a small portion, about the size of an egg, in a pint of spring water, and strain it through a napkin. The usual English mode of making orgeat paste is, by pounding in the same manner, half an ounce of bitter, to a pound of sweet, almonds; and boiling a quart of common syrup, till it becomes what is called blow; mixing the almonds with it over the fire, well stirred all the time, to prevent burning, till it becomes a stiff paste; then, on its getting quite cold, putting it in pots, to be used in the same manner as the other.

1269. To cork, and preserve Cider in Bottles.--Good corks are highly necessary, and if soaked before used in scalding water, they will be more the pliant and serviceable; and by laying the bottles so that the liquor may always keep the cork wet and swelled, will much preserve it.

1270. Soda Water and Ginger Beer Powders.--Carbonate of soda and tartaric acid, of each two ounces; fine loaf sugar rolled and sifted, six ounces; pure essence of lemon, twenty-five or thirty drops. To be well mixed in a marble mortar, kept in a bottle closely corked, and in a very dry place. When required for use, two tea-spoonfuls to less than a half pint of water, to be mixed in a glass that will hold twice that quantity, and drunk while in a state of effervescence. If half an ounce or one ounce (according as it may be liked more or less hot), of best ground ginger be mixed with the above quantity, it will be "ginger-beer powder."

1271. Spruce Beer.--For white spruce, pour ten gallons of boiling water upon six pounds of good raw or lump sugar, and four ounces of essence of spruce; ferment with half a pint of good yeast, put into stone bottles, cork and tie them over. For brown spruce use treacle instead of sugar.

Essence of spruce is a remedy for colds, rheumatisms, &c., if drunk warm at bed-time.

1272. An Irish Cordial.--To every pound of white currants stripped from the stalks and bruised, put the very thin rind of a large fresh lemon, and a quarter of an ounce of ginger, well pounded and sifted. Pour on these one quart of good old whiskey; mix the whole up thoroughly, and let it stand for twenty-four hours in a new well-scalded stone pitcher, or deep pan (crock), covered closely from the air. Strain it off; stir in it, until dissolved, a pound and a quarter of pounded sugar, and strain it again and bottle it. This is an Irish receipt, and is given without variation from the original.

1273. To prevent Beer from growing flat.--In a cask containing eighteen gallons of beer, becoming vapid, put a pint of ground malt, suspended in a bag, and close the bung perfectly; the beer will be improved during the whole time of drawing it for use.

1274. To recover sour Beer.--When beer has become sour, put into the barrel some oyster-shells, calcined to whiteness, or a little fine chalk or whiting. Any of these will correct the acidity, and make the beer brisk and sparkling; but it cannot be kept long after these additions are made.

1275. Rose Vinegar for Salads or the Toilette.--To one quarter of a pound of rose-leaves put two quarts of good vinegar; cover it firmly; leave it to infuse till a fine tincture is obtained; then strain it.

1276. Raspberry Vinegar.--Pour one quart of vinegar on two pounds of fresh raspberries, and let it stand twenty-four hours. Then strain them through a hair-sieve without breaking the fruit; put the liquor on two pounds more fruit, and, after straining it in the same manner, add to each pint of juice half a pound of loaf sugar; put it in a stone vessel, and let it stand in boiling water until the sugar is dissolved; when cold, take off the scum, and bottle it.

1277. Cheap and easy method of Brewing.--One bushel of malt and three-quarters of a pound of hops will, on an average, brew twenty gallons of good beer.

For this quantity of malt, boil twenty-four gallons of water; and, having dashed it in the copper with cold water to stop the boiling, steep the malt (properly covered up) for three hours; then tie up the hops in a hair-cloth, and boil malt, hops, and wort, altogether, for three-quarters of an hour, which will reduce it to about twenty gallons. Strain it off, and set it to work when lukewarm.

In large brewings, this process perhaps would not answer, but in small ones, where the waste is not so great, and where the malt can be boiled, the essence is sure to be extracted.

1278. To make excellent and wholesome Table Beer.--To eight quarts of boiling water put a pound of treacle, a quarter of an ounce of ginger, and two bay leaves; let this boil for a quarter of an hour, then cool, and work it with yeast, the same as other beer.

1279. How the Chinese make Tea.--The art of making tea consists in pouring the water on and off immediately, so as to get the flavor.

1280. Tea, economically.--Young Hyson is supposed to be a more profitable tea than Hyson; but though the quantity to a pound is greater, it has not so much strength. In point of economy, therefore, there is not much difference between them. Hyson tea and Souchong mixed together, half and half, is a pleasant beverage, and is more healthy than green tea alone. Be sure that water boils before it is poured upon tea. A tea-spoonful to each person, and one extra thrown in, is a good rule. Steep a few minutes.

1281. Turkish method of making Coffee.--The coffee must be slowly roasted, not burnt, and brought only to an amber brown: it must be roasted day by day. The flavor dissipates in a few hours; it must be reduced by pounding to an impalpable powder. In making it, two opposite and, apparently, incompatible ends are to be secured--strength and flavor. To obtain the first, it must be boiled; by boiling, the second is lost. The difficulty is surmounted by a double process--one thorough cooking, one slight one; by the first a strong infusion is obtained; by the second, that infusion is flavored. Thus a large pot with coffee-lees stands simmering by the fire; this is the sherbet. When a cup is wanted, the pounded coffee is put in the little tin or copper pan, and placed on the embers; it fumes for a moment, then the sherbet is poured on; in a few seconds the froth (caïmah) rises; presently an indication that it is about to boil is made manifest, when the coffee is instantly taken from the fire, carried into the apartment, turned into the cup, and drank.

1282. Cheap and valuable substitute for Coffee.--The flour of rye, and yellow potatoes, are found an excellent substitute for coffee. Boil, peel, and mash the potatoes, and then mix with the meal into a cake, which is to be dried in an oven, and afterwards reduced to a powder, which will make a beverage very similar to coffee in its taste, as well as in other properties, and not in the least detrimental to health.

1283. Substitute for Cream.--If you have not cream for coffee, it is a very great improvement to boil your milk, and use it while hot.

1284. Cocoa is the foundation of chocolate; it may be pounded, and either boiled as milk, or boiling water may be poured on it. It is very digestible, and of a fattening nature.

1285. Racahout des Arabes; a pleasant beverage for Invalids.--Mix thoroughly one pound of ground rice; one pound of arrow-root; half pound of fine chocolate. Put the mixture into a jar for use. When it is wanted, make a tablespoonful of the Racahout into a paste with cold water or milk; then stir it into half a pint of boiling milk, and let it boil up for a minute or two; add sugar, if agreeable, and drink it as you would chocolate.

1286. How to judge the Properties of Nutmegs.--The largest, heaviest, and most unctuous of nutmegs are to be chosen, such as are the shape of an olive, and of the most fragrant smell.

1287. To keep Grapes.--Gather the grapes in the afternoon of a dry day, before they are perfectly ripe. Have ready a clean dry barrel and wheat bran. Proceed then with alternate layers of bran and grapes, till the barrel is full, taking care that the grapes do not touch each other, and to let the last layer be of bran; then close the barrel, so that the air may not be able to penetrate, which is an essential point. Grapes, thus packed, will keep nine or even twelve months. To restore them to their freshness, cut the end of the stalk of each bunch of grapes, and put that of white grapes into white wine, and that of the black grapes into red wine, as you would put flowers into water, to revive or keep them fresh.

1288. To keep Oranges and Lemons.--Take small sand and make it very dry; after it is cold, put a quantity of it into a clean vessel; then take your oranges, and set a laying of them in the same, the stalk-end downwards, so that they do not touch each other, and strew in some of the sand, as much as will cover them two inches deep; then set your vessel in a cold place, and you will find your fruit in high preservation at the end of several months.

1289. Another Method.--Freeze the oranges, and keep them in an ice-house. When to be used, put them into a vessel of cold water till they are thawed. By this means they may be had in perfection at any season of the year.

1290. Keeping Apples.--Apples should be placed on a dry floor three weeks before they are packed away in barrels. They should be kept in a cool place; if inclosed in a water-tight cask, they may be kept all winter in a loft or garret without further care, and will come out sound and fresh in the spring.

1291. To keep Onions.--Onions should be kept very dry, and never carried into the cellar except in severe weather, when there is danger of their freezing. By no means let them be in the cellar after March; they will sprout and spoil.

1292. A good way of cooking onions.--It is a good plan to boil onions in milk and water; it diminishes the strong taste of that vegetable. It is an excellent way of serving up onions, to chop them after they are boiled, and put them in a stewpan, with a little milk, butter, salt, and pepper, and let them stew about fifteen minutes. This gives them a fine flavor, and they can be served up very hot.

1293. To keep Parsnips.--Parsnips should be kept down cellar, covered up in sand, entirely excluded from the air. They are good only in the Spring.

1294. To keep Cabbages.--Cabbages put into a hole in the ground will keep well during the winter, and be hard, fresh, and sweet in the Spring. Many farmers keep potatoes in the same way.

1295. To keep Potatoes.--The cellar is the best place for them, because they are injured by wilting; but sprout them carefully, if you want to keep them. They never sprout but three times; therefore, after you have sprouted them three times, they will trouble you no more.

Note.--Boiled potatoes are said to cleanse the hands as well as common soap; they prevent chaps in the winter season, and keep the skin soft and healthy.

1290. Boiling Potatoes.--The following method of dressing potatoes will be found of great use at the season of the year, when skins are tough and potatoes are watery. Score the skin of the potato with a knife, lengthwise and across, quite around, and then boil the potato in plenty of water and salt, with the skin on. The skin readily cracks when it is scored, and lets out the moisture, which otherwise renders the potato soapy and wet. The improvement to bad potatoes by this method of boiling them is very great, and all who have tried it find a great advantage in it, now that good potatoes are very difficult to be obtained.

1297. To keep Celery.--Celery should be kept in the cellar, the roots covered with tan, to keep them moist.

1298. To keep Lettuce.--If the tops of lettuce be cut off when it is becoming too old for use, it will grow up again fresh and tender, and may thus be kept good through the summer.

1299. Good Squashes.--Green squashes that are turning yellow, and striped squashes, are more uniformly sweet and mealy than any other kind.

1300. To dry Pumpkin.--Cut it round horizontally in tolerably thin slices, peel them and hang them on a line in a warm room. When perfectly dry, put them away for use. When you wish to use it, put it to soak over night; next day pour off the water, put on fresh water, stew and use it as usual, &c.

Another and, as some think, a much better way, is to boil and sift the pumpkin, then spread it out thin in tin plates, and dry hard in a warm oven. It will keep good all the year round, and a little piece boiled up in milk will make a batch of pies.

1301. To pickle large Mushrooms.--Pick them carefully, and take out the stalks; put them into a jar, and pour on them boiling spiced vinegar, with a little salt in it.

1302. To preserve Green Currants.--Currants may be kept fresh for a year or more, if they are gathered when green, separated from the stems, put into dry, clean junk bottles, and corked very carefully, so as to exclude the air. They should be kept in a cool place in the cellar.

1303. Walnut Ketchup.--Take half a bushel of green walnuts, before the shell is formed, and grind them in a crab mill, or beat them in a marble mortar; then squeeze out the juices through a coarse cloth, and wring the cloth well to get all the juice out, and to every gallon of juice put a quart of red wine, a quarter of a pound of anchovies, the same of bay salt, one ounce of allspice, two of long or black pepper, half an ounce of cloves and mace, a little ginger and horse-radish, cut in slices; boil all together till reduced to half the quantity; pour into a pan; when it is cold bottle it, cork it tight, and it will be fit to use in three months. If you have any pickle left in the jar after your walnuts are used, to every gallon of pickle put in two heads of garlic, a quart of red wine, an ounce each of cloves and mace, long, black, and Jamaica pepper, and boil them all together, till it is reduced to half the quantity, pour it into a pan, and the next day bottle it for use, and cork it tight.

1304. To discover if Bread is adulterated with Alum.--Make a solution of lime in aquafortis, and put a little of this solution into water, in which you have steeped the bread suspected to contain alum. If such should be the case, the acid, which was combined with the alum, will form a precipitate or chalky concretion at the bottom of the vessel.

1305. To preserve Biscuit from Putrefaction.--To preserve biscuit a long time sweet and good, no other art is necessary than stowing it, well baked, in casks exactly caulked, and carefully lined with tin, so as to exclude the air; at the same time the biscuit must be so placed as to leave as little vacant room as possible in the cask; and when the same is opened through necessity, it must be speedily closed again with great care.

1306. A good Yeast.--Put into one gallon of water a double-handful of hops;--boil them fifteen or twenty minutes, then strain off the water while it is scalding hot; stir in wheat flour or meal till it becomes a thick batter, so that it will hardly pour;--let it stand till it becomes about blood-warm, then add a pint of good lively yeast, and stir it well; and then let it stand in a place where it will be kept at a temperature of about seventy degrees Fahrenheit, till it becomes perfectly light, whether more or less time is required; and then it is fit for use;--or if it is desired to keep a portion of it, let it stand several hours and become cool; and then put it into a clean jug and cork it tight, and place it in the cellar, where it will keep cool; and it may be preserved good, ten or twelve days, and even longer.

1307. The Dairy.--Dairymen will find a great advantage in cheese making, by putting their milk, which is to stand over night, into small air-tight vessels. They will also find it an advantage, when it thunders, to suspend the vessels by a cord or chain, as the jarring of the shocks, which sour the milk, will, in a great measure, be prevented. We may prevent the commencement of sourness, which takes place in milk standing in large quantities, by a wooden follower being fitted to the vat, and pressed on the milk. If any one doubt the utility of this, let him try the experiment for himself. Cover the bottom of your cheese-vat to the depth of half an inch with milk, and let it stand through the night, and then try to make a breakfast of it in the morning. You could relish tallow as well, or a piece of bread and butter that had lain in the sun an hour. Neither milk, butter, nor cheese will do to stand in the light of the sun, though it be reflected, as it will produce rancidity.

1308. Butter.--Keep your pails, churn, and pans sweet. In winter warm the pans and churns with hot water, in summer cool them with cold. Keep your milk in summer where it is cool and airy, in winter where it is warm. In warm weather skim your milk as soon as it is thick; in colder weather skim as soon as there is a good thick cream, and be careful not to let it remain too long, as it will acquire a bad taste. Churn as often as you have cream enough, never less than once a week. If the cream is of the right temperature when commenced, it will not froth, and if it does, put in a little salt. Use no salt but the best ground salt; work out all the butter-milk with a ladle in summer, in winter use clean hands. If you wish to keep it some time, put it down in a jar or firkin, or pickle in layers, as clean and free from butter-milk as it is possible, leaving a space for pickle over it, in the following proportions. Half a pail of water, one quart of fine salt, two ounces of loaf-sugar, one ounce of saltpetre, well boiled and skimmed. When cold, cover with this, and it will keep good and sweet, the year round.

1309. Cream.--The quantity of cream on milk may be greatly increased by the following process: Have two pans ready in boiling hot water, and when the new milk is brought in, put it into one of these hot pans and cover it with the other. The quality as well as the thickness of the cream is improved.

1310. Method of curing bad Tub Butter.--A quantity of tub butter was brought to market in the West Indies, which, on opening, was found to be very bad, and almost stinking. A native of Pennsylvania undertook to cure it, which he did, in the following manner:--

He started the tubs of butter in a large quantity of hot water, which soon melted the butter; he then skimmed it off as clean as possible, and worked it over again in a churn, and with the addition of salt and fine sugar, the butter was sweet and good.

1311. Method of taking the Rankness and disagreeable Taste from Irish Salt Butter.--The quantity proposed to be made use of, either for toasts or melting, must be put into a bowl filled with boiling water, and when the butter is melted, skim it quite off; by this method it is so separated from any gross particles, that it may require a small addition of salt, which may be put into the cold water that is made use of in melting butter for sauce; and though the butter is oiled by hot water, it becomes a fine cream in the boiling for sauce.

1312. To remove the Taste of Turnips from Milk or Butter.--The taste of the turnip is easily taken off milk and butter, by dissolving a little nitre in spring water, which being kept in a bottle, and a small tea-cupful put into eight gallons of milk, when warm from the cow, entirely removes any taste or flavor of the turnip.

1313. To make Salt Butter fresh.--Put four pounds of salt butter into a churn, with four quarts of new milk, and a small portion of arnotto. Churn them together, and, in about an hour, take out the butter, and treat it exactly as fresh butter, by washing it in water, and adding the customary quantity of salt.

This is a singular experiment. The butter gains about three ounces in each pound, and is in every particular equal to fresh butter. It would be greatly improved by the addition of two or three ounces of fine sugar, in powder. A common earthen churn answers the same purpose as a wooden one, and may be purchased at any pot shop.

1314. Method of making Stilton Cheese.--Take the night's cream, and put it to the morning's new milk, with the rennet; when the curd is come it is not to be broken, as is done with other cheeses, but take it out with a soil dish all together, and place it on a sieve to drain gradually, and, as it drains, keep gradually pressing it, till it becomes firm and dry; then place it in a wooden hoop; afterwards to be kept dry on boards, turned frequently, with cloth-binders round it, which are to be tightened as occasion requires.

In some dairies the cheeses, after being taken out of the wooden hoop, are bound tight round with a cloth, which cloth is changed every day until the cheese becomes firm enough to support itself; after the cloth is taken away, they are rubbed every day all over, for two or three months, with a brush; and if the weather is damp or moist, twice a day; and even before the cloth is taken off, the top and bottom are well rubbed every day.

1315. Coloring for Cheese.--The coloring for cheese is, or at least should be, Spanish arnotto; but as soon as coloring became general in this country, a color of an adulterated kind was exposed for sale in almost every shop; the weight of a guinea and a half of real Spanish arnotto is sufficient for a cheese of fifty pounds' weight. If a considerable part of the cream of the night's milk be taken for butter, more coloring will be requisite. The leaner the cheese is, the more coloring it requires. The manner of using arnotto is to tie up, in a linen rag, the quantity deemed sufficient, and put it into half a pint of warm water over night. This infusion is put into the tub of milk, in the morning, with the rennet infusion; dipping the rag into the milk, and rubbing it against the palm of the hand as long as any color runs out.

1316. To make Cement for Bottles or Preserve Jars.--Take one-third bees'-wax and two-thirds rosin, according to the quantity of cement required. Pound the rosin fine, and put it with the wax to melt in any old vessel fit for the purpose. When it is melted, take it off the fire, and add powdered brick-dust till it is as thick as melted sealing-wax. Then dip the bottle necks into the cement, and in a few minutes the mixture will be dry.

1317. Blue Wash for Walls.--Take one pound of lump blue vitriol; pound it in a stone mortar as fine as possible; dissolve it in a quart or two of hot water. Slake about a quarter of a peck, or perhaps a little more of lime, and when cold pour in the blue water by degrees, and make it whatever shade you desire.

The lime must be slaked and the vitriol dissolved in earthen or stone ware, and the whole mixture stirred with a metal spoon. If wood is used for any of the above purposes, the color will be changed. A new brush should also be used to put it on the walls, and they must first have a coat or two of whitewash, to destroy all smoke and other impurities.

1318. Yellow Wash for Walls.--One quarter of a pound of chrome yellow, one quarter of a pound of gum senegal, two pounds of whiting.

EASY AND CHEAP MODE OF COLORING CLOTHING, &c.

1319. "Blue Composition," a compound of vitriol and indigo, is usually kept by hatters and apothecaries. It colors a good and durable blue. An ounce vial, that may be bought for a trifle, will color a large number of articles. It is an economical plan to use it for old silk linings, ribbons, &c. The original color should be boiled out, and the material thoroughly rinsed in soft water, so that no soap may remain in it; for soap ruins the dye. Twelve or sixteen drops of the blue composition, poured into a quart bowl full of warm soft water, stirred, (and strained, if any settlings are perceptible,) will color a great many articles. If you wish a deep blue, pour in more of the compound. Cotton must not be colored; the vitriol destroys it; if the material you wish to color has cotton threads in it, it will be ruined. After the things are thoroughly dried, they should be washed in cool suds, and dried again; this prevents any bad effects from the vitriol; if shut up from the air, without being washed, there is danger of the texture being destroyed.

1320. How to color Green.--If you wish to color green, have your cloth free as possible from the old color, clean and rinsed, and, in the first place, color it a deep yellow. Fustic boiled in soft water makes the strongest and brightest yellow dye; but saffron, barberry bush, peach leaves, or onion skins, will answer pretty well. Next take a bowl full of strong yellow dye, and pour in a great spoonful or more of the blue composition. Stir it up well with a clean stick, and dip the articles you have already colored yellow into it, and they will take a lively grass-green. This is a good plan for old bombazet curtains, dessert cloths, old flannel for desk coverings, &c.

1321. Slate Color.--Tea-grounds boiled in iron, and set with copperas, make a very good slate color.

1322. Purple Slate Color.--The purple paper, which comes on loaf sugar, boiled in cider, or vinegar, with a small bit of alum, makes a fine purple slate color. Done in iron.

White maple bark makes a good light-brown slate color. This should be boiled in water, set with alum. The color is reckoned better when boiled in brass, instead of iron.

The purple slate and the brown slate are suitable colors for stockings; and it is an economical plan, after they have been mended and cut down, so that they will no longer look decent, to color old stockings, and make them up for children.

1323. To make Nankin Color.--A pailful of lye, with a piece of copperas half as big as a hen's egg boiled in it, will color a fine nankin color, which will never wash out. This is very useful for the linings of bed-quilts, comforters, &c. Old faded gowns, colored in this way, may be made into good petticoats. Cheap cotton cloth may be colored to advantage for petticoats, and pelisses for little girls.

1324. Nankin Color, another way.--The common birch-bark makes a very beautiful nankin dye. Cover the bark with water, and boil it thoroughly in a brass or tin kettle. Bark stripped from the trees in autumn is best. Set the color with alum. A piece as large as a hen's egg is sufficient for two pailsful of dye. Dip the articles, wet thoroughly in clean water, into the alum water, then into the dye.

1325. To make Straw-color and Yellow.--Saffron, steeped in earthen and strained, colors a fine straw color. It makes a delicate or deep shade, according to the strength of the tea. The dry outside skins of onions, steeped in scalding water and strained, color a yellow very much like the "bird of paradise" color. Peach leaves, or bark scraped from the barberry bush, color a common bright yellow. In all these cases, a little bit of alum does no harm, and may help to fix the color. Ribbons, gauze handkerchiefs, &c., are colored well in this way, especially if they be stiffened by a bit of gum-arabic, dropped in while the stuff is steeping.

1326. To make Rose-color.--Balm blossoms, steeped in water, color a pretty rose-color. This answers very well for the linings of children's bonnets, for ribbons, &c. It fades in the course of one season, but it is very little trouble to re-color with it. It merely requires to be steeped and strained. Perhaps a small piece of alum might serve to set the color, in some degree. In earthen or tin.

1327. To color Black.--Logwood and cider, boiled together, in iron--add water for the evaporation--makes a good and durable black. Rusty nails, or any bits of rusty iron, boiled in vinegar, with a small piece of copperas, will also dye black; so will ink-powder, if boiled with vinegar. In all cases, black must be set with copperas.

1328. General Rules for Coloring.--The materials should be perfectly clean; soap should be rinsed out in soft water; the article should be entirely wetted, or it will spot; light colors should be steeped in brass, tin, or earthen; and if set at all, should be set with alum. Dark colors should be boiled in iron, and set with copperas. Too much copperas rots the thread.

1329. To Wash Carpets.--Put the carpets down on a perfectly clean floor; wash them first with warm and weak soap-suds, wringing the wash-cloth almost dry; rinse them with clear water. Open the windows, that they may dry quickly.

It is obvious that the above directions are only applicable to the lighter sorts of carpets, Scotch, Kidderminster, and Venetian. If it be desired to cleanse a carpet which has an under-texture of thread, as Brussels, tapestry, or velvet, the carpet having been well beaten or shaken, and washed, should be spread out, and scrubbed with a scrubbing brush and ox-gall. A pint of gall and three gallons of water will clean a large carpet.

After the use of the gall, the carpet must be thoroughly rinsed, and dried in the open air.

1330. To Wash Clothes, on a small scale.--For a wash for three persons put three-quarters of an ounce of soda in soap and water over the fire. Wash the clothes first in soap and water; rub soap on the soiled or greasy places, and throw them in the mixture. Let them boil an hour; rinse them in clear, cold water; rinse them again in water with a little bluing in it. If the clothes are much soiled, put them to soak over night.

1331. Washing of Woollen Articles; an excellent way.--It is a common complaint that woollen articles thicken, shrink, and become discolored in washing. The complaint applies both to the lighter articles of knitted wool, such as shawls, &c., and to thicker and heavier materials--table baizes, carpets, and men's woollen garments. The difficulty in either case may be obviated by strict attention to the method about to be explained. To clear the way, it may be well first to point out some things which never ought to be done, but which frequently, perhaps generally, are done:--

1. Woollen articles are never to be washed in hard water, nor in water softened by soda, potash, or anything of that kind. Soap even should never touch them.

2. They are never to be rubbed at all.

3. They are never to be put in lukewarm water for washing, nor in cold water for rinsing.

4. They are never to remain lying still in the water a single minute.

5. They are never to be wrung.

6. When taken out of the water, they must not be laid down at all, before the process of drying is commenced, nor at any time afterwards until they are perfectly dry.

These things are to be avoided:--Now what is to be done?

1. Let the things to be washed be first well brushed and shaken, to get rid of the dust.

2. Before the woollen things are wetted at all, take care to have everything that will be required, ready and within reach.

3. If several things are to be done, let each be begun and finished separately. This makes no difference in expense or trouble. A smaller vessel and smaller quantity of lather will suffice, and the stuff in which one article has been washed, would do no good, but harm, to others; it is, in fact, good for nothing.

4. Use only fresh rain water, or very clear river water; rain is preferable.

5. With a piece of sponge or old flannel, rub up a very strong lather of either soft soap or best yellow soap. For very large, greasy things, the lather may be made of ox-gall, half a pint to six quarts of water, whisked up with a handful of birch twigs (like that old-fashioned thing, a rod). In either case, the lather may be prepared with a small quantity of water, and the remainder added, boiling hot, the moment before using it. The whole should be as hot as the hand can bear it; the hotter the better. If the articles are very dirty, two lathers will be required in succession; and unless a second person is at hand, to rub up the second while the first is being used, both had better be prepared in separate vessels before the wools are wetted, leaving only the boiling water to be added.

6. Take the article to be washed, and without leaving hold of it, keep on dipping and raising, dipping and raising, for two or three minutes. By that time the lather will be absorbed by the wool, and the liquor will resemble slimy suds.

7. Squeeze the article as dry as may be, without wringing it.

8. The second lather having been brought to the same heat as the first, proceed in the same manner, dipping and raising. N. B.--If the article was very little soiled, and after the first washing appears quite clear and clean, the second washing may be in hot water without soap. Whether lather or water only, a blue-bag may be slightly drawn through before the second washing. When gall has been used, a third washing in hot water only, will be required to take off the smell.

9. Having again squeezed the article as dry as may be, for the lighter things, such as shawls, &c., spread it on a coarse dry cloth, pulling it out to its proper shape; lay over it another coarse dry cloth, roll the whole up tightly, and let it remain half an hour. This rule does not apply to large, heavy things; they must be hung out at once.

1332. To make Soft Soap.--Bore some holes in your lye-barrel; put some straw in the bottom; lay some unslaked lime on it, and fill your barrel with good hard-wood ashes; wet it, and pound it down as you put it in. When full, make a basin in the ashes and pour in water; keep filling it as it sinks in the ashes. In the course of a few hours the lye will begin to run. When you have a sufficient quantity to begin with, put your grease in a large iron pot, let it heat, pour in the lye, let it boil, &c. Three pounds of clean grease are allowed for two gallons of soap.

1333.--Of Fish as Food.--As food, fish is easier of digestion than meats are, with the exception of salmon; this kind of fish is extremely hearty food, and should be given sparingly to children, and used cautiously by those who have weak stomachs, or who take little exercise.

The small trout, found in rivers, are the most delicate and suitable for invalids; lake fish are also excellent, and any kind of fresh-water fish, if cooked immediately after being caught, are always healthful.

But the ocean is the chief dependence for the fish-market, and there is little danger (if we except salmon and lobsters) that its kind of aliment will, in our country, be eaten to excess. It would be better for the health of those who do not labor, if they would use more fish and less flesh for food. But then fish cannot be rendered so palatable, because it does not admit the variety of cooking and flavors that other animal food does.

Fish is much less nutritious than flesh. The white kinds of fish, cod, haddock, flounders, white fish, &c., are the least nutritious; the oily kinds, salmon, eels, herrings, &c., are more difficult to digest.

Shell fish have long held a high rank as restorative food; but a well-dressed chop or steak is much better to recruit the strength and spirits.

Cod, whiting, and haddock, are better for being a little salted, and kept one day before cooking.

1334.--Of Beef as Food.--Ox beef is considered the best; heifer beef is excellent where well fed, and is most suitable for small families. If you want the best, choose that which has a fine smooth grain--the lean of a bright red; the fat white or nearly so.

The best roasting-piece is the sirloin; then the first three ribs--if kept till they are quite tender, and boned, they are nearly equal to the sirloin, and better for a family dinner.

The round is used for alamode beef, and is the best piece for corning.

The best beef steak is cut from the inner part of the sirloin. Good steak may be cut from the ribs.

If you wish to practise economy, buy the chuck, or piece between the shoulder and the neck; it makes a good roast or steak, and is excellent for stewing or baking. The thick part of the flank is also a profitable piece; good to bake or boil, or even roast.

The leg and shin of beef make the best soup--the heart is profitable meat, and good broiled or roasted. The leg rand is used for mince pies--it needs to be boiled till it is very tender. The tongue, when fresh, is a rich part for mince pies. If eaten by itself, it should be pickled and smoked.

1335.--Of Pork as Food.--Pork, that is fed from the dairy, and fattened on corn, is the best--potatoes do very well for part of the feeding. But pork fattened from the still-house is all but poisonous; it should never be eaten by those who wish to preserve their health.

The offals, &c., with which pork in the vicinity of a city is fattened, make it unsavory and unwholesome. Such stuff should be used for manure, and never given as food to animals, whose flesh is to be eaten by man.

When pork is good, the flesh looks very white and smooth, and the fat white and fine. Hogs two years old make the best--older than that, their flesh is apt to be rank. Measly pork is very unwholesome, and never should be eaten. It may be known, as the fat is filled with small kernels.

When the rind is thick and tough, and cannot easily be impressed with the finger, the pork is old, and will require more cooking.

If pork is not cooked enough, it is disagreeable and almost indigestible; it should never be eaten unless it is thoroughly done.

The fat parts of pork are not very healthy food. Those who labor hard may feel no inconvenience from this diet; but children should never eat it; nor is it healthy for the delicate and sedentary. Fat pork seems more proper as material for frying fish and other meats, and as a garnish, than to be cooked and eaten by itself. It is best and least apt to prove injurious during the cold weather.

1336. Of Mutton.--Mutton is best from August till January. It is nutritious, and often agrees better than any other meat with weak stomachs. To have it tender, it must be kept as long as possible without injury. Be sure and cook it till it is done; the gravy that runs when the meat is cut, should never show the least tinge of blood.

1337. Of using Gravies.--Make it a general rule never to pour gravy over any thing that is roasted; by so doing, the dredging, &c., is washed off and it eats insipid.

SOME HINTS ON DIET, EXERCISE, AND ECONOMY.

1338. Meat for Children.--Lamb, veal, and fowls are delicate and healthy diet for the young and sedentary; and for all who find fat meats and those of coarse fibre do not agree with them.

1339. Economicals of Cooking Meats.--The most economical way of cooking meat is to boil it, if the liquid be used for soup or broth, as it always ought to be.

Baking is one of the cheapest ways of dressing a dinner in small families, and several kinds of meat are excellent, done in this way. Legs and loins of pork, legs of mutton, and fillets of veal will bake to much advantage; especially if they be fat. Never bake a lean, thin piece; it will all shrivel away. Such pieces should always be boiled or made into soup. Pigs, geese, and the buttock of beef are all excellent baked. Meat always loses in weight by being cooked.--In roasting, the loss is the greatest. It also costs more in fuel to roast than to boil--still there are many pieces of meat which seem made for roasting; and it would be almost wrong to cook them in any other way. Those who cannot afford to roast their meat, should not purchase the sirloin of beef. Stewing meat is an excellent and economical mode of cookery.

1340. Butter as Diet.--Butter, when new and sweet, is nutritious, and, in our climate, generally healthy; during the winter, when made very salt, it is not a good article of diet for some people.

1341. Condiments.--Pepper, ginger, and most of the condiments, are best during summer; they are productions of hot climates, which shows them to be most appropriate for the hot season. On the other hand, fat beef, bacon, and those kinds of food we denominate "hearty," should be most freely used during cold weather.

1342. Eat Slowly.--Eat slowly. One of the most usual causes of dyspepsia among our business men, arises from the haste in which they swallow their food without sufficiently chewing it, and then hurry away to their active pursuits. In England very little business is transacted after dinner. There ought to be, at least, one hour of quiet after a full meal, from those pursuits which tax the brain, as well as those which exercise the muscles.

1343. Of Breakfast.--Persons of a delicate constitution should never exercise much before breakfast.

If exposure of any kind is to be incurred in the morning, breakfast should always be taken previously. The system is more susceptible of infection and of the influence of cold, miasma, &c., in the morning before eating, than at any other time.

Those who walk early will find great benefit from taking a cracker or some little nourishment before going out.

Never go into a room of a morning, where a person is sick with a fever, before you have taken nourishment of some kind--a cup of coffee, at least.

In setting out early to travel, a light breakfast before starting should always be taken; it is a great protection against cold, fatigue and exhaustion.

In boarding schools for the young and growing, early breakfast is an indispensable condition to health. Children should not be kept without food in the morning till they are faint and weary.

1344. Of Supper.--Never eat a hearty supper just before retiring to rest.

Food should never be eaten when it is hot--bread is very unhealthy, eaten in this way.

1345. Of Dinner.--It is injurious to eat when greatly heated or fatigued. It would very much conduce to the health of laboring men, if they could rest fifteen or twenty minutes before dinner.

The diet should always be more spare, with a larger proportion of vegetables and ripe fruits, during summer. Fruits are most wholesome in their appropriate season. The skins, stones, and seeds, are indigestible.

Rich soups are injurious to the dyspeptic. Much liquid food is rarely beneficial for adults; but a small quantity of plain, nourishing soup is an economical and healthy beginning of a family dinner.

Meats should always be sufficiently cooked. It is a savage custom to eat meat in a half-raw-half-roasted state, and only a very strong stomach can digest it.

Rich gravies should be avoided, especially in the summer season.

1346.--Of Drinks.--Most people drink too much, because they drink too fast. A wine-glass of water, sipped slowly, will quench the thirst as effectually as a pint swallowed at a draught. When too much is taken at meals, especially at dinner, it hinders digestion. Better drink little during the meal, and then, if thirsty an hour or two afterwards, more. The practice of taking a cup of tea or coffee soon after dinner is a good one, if the beverage be not drank too strong or too hot.

Dyspeptic people should be careful to take but a small quantity of drink. Children require more, in proportion to their food, than adults. But it is very injurious to them to allow a habit of continual drinking as you find in some children. It greatly weakens the stomach, and renders them irritable and peevish.

The morning meal requires to be lighter and of a more fluid nature than any other. Children should always, if possible to be obtained, take milk--as a substitute, during the winter, good gruel with bread, or water, sweetened with molasses, is healthy. Never give children tea, coffee, or chocolate with their meals.

Coffee affords very little nourishment, and is apt, if drank strong, to occasion tremors of the nerves. It is very bad for bilious constitutions. The calm, phlegmatic temperament can bear it. With a good supply of cream and sugar, drank in moderation, by those who exercise much and take considerable solid food, it may be used without much danger.

Strong green tea relaxes the tone of the stomach, and excites the nervous system. Persons of delicate constitution are almost sure to be injured by it. Black tea is much less deleterious. If used with milk and sugar, it may be considered healthy for most people.

Chocolate, when it agrees with the constitution, is very nutritious and healthy. But it seldom can be used steadily except by aged persons who are very active. It agrees best with persons of phlegmatic temperament; and is more healthy in the winter season than during warm weather.

No kind of beverage should be taken hot--it injures the teeth and impairs digestion.

1347. A few Rules for Health.--Rise early. Eat simple food. Take plenty of exercise. Never fear a little fatigue. Let not children be dressed in tight clothes; it is necessary their limbs and muscles should have full play, if you wish for either health or beauty. Wash very often, and rub the skin thoroughly with a coarse towel.

Wash the eyes in cold water every morning. Do not read or sew at twilight, or by too dazzling a light. If far-sighted, read with rather less light, and with the book somewhat nearer to the eye, than you desire. If near-sighted, read with a book as far off as possible. Both these imperfections may be diminished in this way.

Clean teeth in pure water two or three times a day; but, above all, be sure to have them clean before you go to bed.

Have your bed-chamber well aired; and have fresh bed linen every week. Never have the wind blowing directly upon you from open windows during the night. It is not healthy to sleep in heated rooms.

Wear shoes that are large enough. It not only produces corns, but makes the feet misshapen to cramp them.

Avoid the necessity of a physician, if you can, by careful attention to your diet. Eat what best agrees with your system, and resolutely abstain from what hurts you, however well you may like it. A few days' abstinence, and cold water for a beverage, with cold or warm bathing, as the case may require, have driven off many an approaching disease.

If you find yourself really ill, send for a good physician. Have nothing to do with quacks; and do not tamper with quack medicines. You do not know what they are; and what security have you that they know what they are?

1348. A few Remedies for Sickness.--The ague may be rendered milder by the timely use of an emetic, given one hour before the fit is expected to return. For this purpose, one scruple of ipecacuanha may be given in an ounce of water. After each return of vomiting, give half a pint of tepid chamomile tea, which may be repeated three or four times, but not oftener. When the disease has continued for some days, and the force of the fever is weakened by emetics, give to an adult the following preparation of bark:--

Take of Peruvian bark, in fine-powder, one ounce; port wine, one quart; mix them, and let them stand together for twelve hours. Shake the bottle, and give four large spoonsful immediately after the hot stage of the disorder, repeating it every second hour till the whole be taken; unless the coming on of the next ague-fit should require its suspension.

1349. Hysteric Affections.--So numerous and various are the symptoms said to belong to this disease, that it becomes difficult to mark its peculiar character. It is frequently described by the patient, as a round body moving in the bowels, ascending to the stomach, and from thence affecting the throat with a sense of stricture, threatening suffocation. The patient also complains of palpitation, a costive habit, cold feet and legs, &c. To counteract the force of these attacks, the bowels should be kept open by the following aperient mixture:--

Take of infusion of senna, one ounce and a half; tincture of senna, tincture of cardamoms, of each half an ounce. Three large spoonsful to be taken occasionally.

The feet and legs should be kept warm, the head cool; the diet should consist chiefly of animal food of easy digestion, as beef or mutton; avoiding vegetables and malt liquor, indeed everything that has a tendency to generate flatulency. As a beverage, weak brandy and water, toast and water, tea or coffee, whichever suits the palate of the patient, may be freely used. Much depends on the cause--as that varies, so must the treatment. A dash of cold water on the face will frequently put an end to the paroxysm.

1350. Mumps are sometimes epidemic and manifestly contagious; they come on with shivering and a sense of coldness, followed by an increased heat, and a considerable enlargement of the glands on each side the neck, below the ear, near to the angle of the jaw bone. This swelling continues to increase until the fourth or fifth day, when it gradually subsides; but before it entirely disappears, it often happens that other tumors take place in the breasts of women, to which the male sex are also subject in different parts of the body.

They are more or less painful, but commonly run their course without any alarming symptoms, and therefore scarcely require any remedies. This entirely depends on good nursing; care should be taken to avoid exposure to cold air, and no application should be used except a slight additional covering. Fomentations, liniments, blisters, and whatever may have a tendency to check the regular process of this disease, may occasion a sudden determination to the brain, and prove fatal to the patient.

A spare diet, gentle laxative medicines, and a free use of weak diluting liquors, are the best means to be employed; these, with a well-regulated temperature, will generally guard off the secondary tumors. But when the disease has been improperly managed, and a determination to any vital part brought on, send for the physician.

1351. Measles frequently assume an alarming character, too much so to entitle them to a place in the list of common casualties. They are at all times too serious to be left, with safety, in the hands of the domestic practitioner. Medical aid, therefore, should be instantly sought for, as much depends on proper management during the first stage of the fever. The approach of this disease may be known, by attending to the symptoms which precede the eruption, in the following order: First, the patient complains of shivering, with a sense of coldness, a thin watery discharge from the nose, hoarseness, cough, and a continued flow of tears from the eyes, which appear red and inflamed. These symptoms continue to increase in violence, until the eruption is completed, when they gradually subside. As this disorder has frequently a putrid tendency, which can only be counteracted by the scientific skill of the physician, and which, if neglected, or improperly treated, proves fatal, there can be no excuse for not calling for his aid at the commencement of the attack. But that no time may be lost, should there be no physician present, an emetic of some gentle kind may be given and repeated every half hour till vomiting be excited. If it should not act on the bowels, take mild aperient medicine every fourth hour; but this is not to be repeated after a motion has been procured. The patient should be kept in an equal temperature, near sixty-four degrees of Fahrenheit; if exposed to a higher degree of heat, the fever might be increased; if to a lower temperature, the cough and hoarseness would be aggravated. Wine, or wine and water, and all other fermented liquors must be avoided. Toast and water, barley water, apple-water, rennet whey, tamarind tea, coffee, tea, or any other weak diluting beverage, may be freely used, provided they are of an equal warmth to milk when drawn from the cow; also, weak lemonade.

1352. Soothing Beverage for a Cough, after Measles.--Two ounces of figs, two ounces of raisins, two ounces of pearl barley, and half an ounce of liquorice-root. Boil them together in a pint and a half of water, and strain off the liquor. A tea-cupful to be taken night and morning.

1353. Costiveness may be relieved by a change of diet, exercise on horseback, or any other exercise in the open air, or by taking one of the following pills an hour before dinner:--

Take of Socotrine aloes, thirty grains; gum mastic, ten grains; oil of wormwood, one drop; tincture of aloes, a sufficient quantity to form the ingredients into a mass, which must be divided into twelve pills.

This is an excellent dyspeptic pill, and will afford great relief in all cases of weak digestion.

1354. Remedies for Dysentery.--Black or green tea, steeped in boiling milk, seasoned with nutmeg, and best of loaf-sugar, is excellent for the dysentery. Cork burnt to charcoal, about as big as a hazel-nut, macerated, and put in a tea-spoonful of brandy, with a little loaf sugar and nutmeg, is very efficacious in cases of dysentery and cholera-morbus. If nutmeg be wanting, peppermint-water may be used. Flannel wet with brandy, powdered with Cayenne pepper, and laid upon the bowels, affords great relief in cases of extreme distress.

1355. Another Remedy.--Dissolve as much table-salt in keen vinegar as will ferment and work clear. When the foam is discharged, cork it up in a bottle, and put it away for use. A large spoonful of this, in a gill of boiling water, is very efficacious in cases of dysentery and colic.

1356. Loss of Appetite.--This is generally symptomatic, and varies according to the occasional cause. The continued use of warm tea, of wine, or other spirituous liquors, diluted with warm water, or the use of warm water alone, if long continued, will occasion a relaxed state of the muscular coat of the stomach. This organ also suffers from anxiety of mind, a sedentary life, or a costive habit; from these and other causes it becomes weakened, irritable, and incapable of digesting the most simple food. To restore the tone of the stomach, first give this emetic:--

Take of ipecacuanha, in fine powder, one scruple; horse-radish tea, two ounces. Mix them together. Between the times of the operation, half a pint of horse-radish tea should be drank, but not repeated oftener than twice or thrice. Afterwards keep the bowels regular by the following aperient pills:--

Take, rhubarb, in fine powder, carbonated kali, of each thirty grains; ginger, in fine powder, one scruple; balsam of Peru, a sufficient quantity to form a mass; divide it into twenty-four pills. Dose, three or four every other night, at bed-time.

At the same time, to restore the tone of the digestive organs, the following decoction should be taken:--

Take of Peruvian bark, six drachms; Cascarilla bark, two drachms. Bruise them in a mortar, and boil them in a pint and a half of water for a few minutes; strain off the liquor while hot, then add tincture of bark, two ounces; diluted nitric acid, a drachm and a half. Dose, four large spoonsful, three times a day.

1357. Cramp and Spasm.--It frequently happens that persons are extremely annoyed by cramp during the night, which may be relieved by the following tincture:--

Take of tincture of opium, two drachms; ether, half an ounce. Mix them together, and take thirty or forty drops every night, at bed-time.

1358. How to apply Blisters.--A considerable degree of pain and inflammation often follows the application of blisters, which may be obviated, by covering the blister-plaster with very thin muslin, which will prevent any part of it remaining on the skin, after the removal of the blister. The muslin should be pressed down, and rubbed with the finger upon the surface of the blister-plaster.

1359. Mustard Plasters--Should be covered with muslin, or the poultice put in a cloth bag, before being applied to the skin.

1360. To prevent Lock-jaw.--Immerse the part injured in strong lye, as warm as can be borne. But first, as in all cases of wounds, apply spirits of turpentine on lint.

1361. For a Stiff Joint.--An ointment made from the common ground-worms, which boys dig to bait fishes, rubbed on with the hand, is said to be excellent, when the sinews are drawn up by disease or from a sprain.

1362. Easy Method of curing the Scurvy.--The root of the garden carrot abounds in a nutritious saccharine juice, and is slightly aromatic. These are desirable properties against the scurvy. To experience the good effects of these properties, the roots must be eaten raw. There is nothing unpleasant in this; on the contrary, it is what the common people often do by choice. These roots would keep well during the longest voyage, packed up in casks, having the interstices filled with sand. Each sailor might be allowed to eat one root every day, or every other day, according to the state of their health, and the quantity of roots on board.

1363. To make Cliver, or Goose-grass Ointment; remarkable for its salutary effects in cases of inveterate Scurvy.--To a pound of hog's-lard melted, without spice or salt, put as much clivers as the lard will moisten, and boil them together over a slow fire; after stirring it till it becomes a little brown, strain it through a cloth; and when cold, take the ointment from the water that will remain at the bottom, and it will be fit for use.

1364. Easy Method of attracting Ear-wigs from the Ear.--A person lately having an earwig crept into his ear, and knowing the peculiar fondness that insect has to apples, immediately applied a piece of apple to the ear, which enticed the creature out, and thereby prevented the alarming consequences which might have otherwise ensued.

1365. Simple remedies for Scarlet Fever.--"Open the bowels regularly every day, with some mild aperient medicine, such as castor oil, senna, etc., and keep the patient at rest, and comfortably warm; sponge the surface with tepid water, two or three times a day; while it is hotter than natural, admit fresh air; live on a bland diet, such as a cup full of arrow-root, several times a day; toast-water for common drink. Gargle made of strong sage tea, honey and alum, or borax, may be used from the commencement, if the throat is affected."--Dr. T. P. Hereford.

1366. The French Method of making Whey.--Mix together equal parts of best vinegar and cold water; a table-spoonful of each will suffice for a pint of milk. It is not, however, all to be put in, whether necessary or not; but when the milk just boils, pour in just as much of the acid as will turn it, and no more. Beat up together the white and shell of one egg, which boil up in the whey. Then set it aside till quite clear. Pour it off very steadily through a muslin strainer. Sweeten to taste with loaf-sugar. This whey is very pleasant, and answers every good purpose of white wine whey, while it is not liable to the objection of being heating, and is also very much less expensive.

1367. Calves'-feet Jelly.--Take two calves' feet, and add to them one gallon of water; which reduce, by boiling, to one quart. Strain it, and when cold skim the fat entirely off. Add to this the white of six or eight eggs, well beaten, half a pint of wine, half a pound of loaf-sugar, and the juice of four lemons, and let them be well mixed. Boil the whole for a few minutes, stirring it constantly, and then pass it through a flannel strainer.

This forms a very nutritious article of diet for the sick and convalescent. When it is desired, the wine can be omitted.--Ellis.

1368. Chicken Water.--Take half a chicken, divested of all fat, and break the bones; add to this half a gallon of water, and boil for fifteen or twenty minutes. Season with salt.

This was freely employed by the late Dr. Parrish in cholera at its commencement. Taken warm, it produces vomiting, and washes out the stomach.

1369. Essence of Beef.--Put into a porter bottle a sufficient quantity of lean beef, sliced, to fill up its body, cork it with a paper stopple, and place it in a pot of cold water, attaching the neck, by means of a string, to the handle of the vessel. Boil this for three-quarters of an hour, then pour off the liquor, and skim it. To this preparation may be added spices and salt.

1370. A very reviving Odor.--Fill with recently gathered, and dried lavender-flowers, stripped from their stalks, small wide-necked scent-bottles, and just cover them with strong acetic acid. A morsel of camphor, the size of a hazel-nut, may be added, with advantage, to the lavender, in each bottle. Sound, new, and closely fitting corks should be used, to secure the mixture from the air. It is exceedingly refreshing and wholesome, and has often proved very acceptable to invalids. The lavender should be gathered for it before it is quite fully blown.

1371. Easy Method of obtaining Water in almost any situation.--The ground must be perforated by a borer. In the perforation is placed a wooden pipe, which is driven down with a mallet, after which the boring is continued, that the pipe may be driven still farther. In proportion as the cavity of the borer becomes loaded, it is drawn up and emptied; and in time, by the addition of new portions of wooden pipe, the boring is carried to any depth, and water is generally obtained.

1372. Method of Draining Ponds in Level Grounds.--At a certain distance below the surface of the earth, there sometimes is a stratum of loose sand, which freely admits the passage of water. This stratum is at various depths, in different elevations; but it will be generally found, that lands most subject to stagnant ponds have but a shallow stratum of clay over the sand. All that is necessary, therefore, is to dig a pit in the bottom of the pond, till you arrive at this stratum of sand, when the water will be immediately absorbed, and the pond emptied.

1373. To preserve Fishing-rods.--Oil your rods, in summer, with linseed oil, drying them in the sun, and taking care the parts lie flat: they should be often turned, to prevent them from warping. This will render them tough, and prevent their being worm-eaten; in time they will acquire a beautiful brown color. Should they get wet, which swells the wood, and makes it fast in the sockets, turn the part round over the flame of a candle a short time, and it will be easily set at liberty.

1374. To gild Letters on Vellum or Paper.--Letters written on vellum or paper are gilded in three ways; in the first, a little size is mixed with the ink, and the letters are written as usual; when they are dry, a slight degree of stickiness is produced by breathing on them, upon which the gold leaf is immediately applied, and by a little pressure may be made to adhere with sufficient firmness. In the second method, some white-lead or chalk is ground up with strong size, and the letters are made with this by means of a brush; when the mixture is almost dry, the gold leaf may be laid on, and afterwards burnished. The last method is to mix up some gold powder with size, and make the letters of this by means of a brush.

1375. To make Pounce.--Gum-sandarac, powdered and sifted very fine, will produce an excellent preventive to keep ink from sinking in the paper after you have had occasion to scratch out any part of the writing.

1376. Another Method.--Cuttle-fish bone, properly dried, one ounce; best rosin, one ounce; and the same quantity of burnt alum, well incorporated together, will make very good pounce equal, if not superior, to any bought at the shops.

1377. To cut Glass.--Take a red-hot shank of a tobacco-pipe, lay it on the edge of your glass, which will then begin to crack; then draw the shank end a little gently before, and it will follow any way you draw your hand.

1378. Mrs. Hooker's Method of preparing and applying a Composition for Painting in Imitation of the Ancient Grecian Manner.--Put into a glazed earthen vessel four ounces and a half of gum arabic, and eight ounces, or half a pint (wine measure) of cold spring water; when the gum is dissolved, stir in seven ounces of gum-mastic, which has been washed, dried, picked, and beaten fine. Set the earthen vessel containing the gum-water and gum-mastic over a slow fire, continually stirring and beating them hard with a spoon, in order to dissolve the gum-mastic; when sufficiently boiled, it will no longer appear transparent, but will become opaque and stiff, like a paste. As soon as this is the case, and the gum-water and mastic are quite boiling, without taking them off the fire, add five ounces of white wax, broken into small pieces, stirring and heating the different ingredients together, till the wax is perfectly melted, and has boiled. Then take the composition off the fire, as boiling it longer than necessary would only harden the wax, and prevent its mixing so well afterwards with water. When the composition is taken off the fire, and in the glazed earthen vessel, it should be beaten hard, and whilst hot (but not boiling) mix with it, by degrees, a pint (wine measure) or sixteen ounces more of cold spring water; then strain the composition, as some dirt will boil out of the gum-mastic, and put it into bottles. The composition, if properly made, should be like a cream, and the colors when mixed with it as smooth as with oil. The method of using it, is to mix with the composition, upon an earthen pallet, such colors in powder, as are used in painting with oil, and such a quantity of the composition to be mixed with the colors as to render them of the usual consistency of oil colors; then paint with fair water. The colors, when mixed with the composition, may be laid on either thick or thin, as may best suit your subject; on which account, this composition is very advantageous, where any particular transparency of coloring is required; but in most cases it answers best if the colors be laid on thick, and they require the same use of the brush as if painting with body colors, and the same brushes as used in oil painting. The colors, if ground dry, when mixed with the composition, may be used by putting a little fair water over them; but it is less trouble to put some water when the colors are observed to be growing dry. In painting with this composition, the colors blend without difficulty when wet, and even when dry the tints may easily be united by means of a brush and a very small quantity of fair water. When the painting is finished, put some white wax into a glazed earthen vessel over a slow fire, and when melted, but not boiling, with a hard brush cover the painting with the wax, and when cold take a moderately hot iron, such as is used for ironing linen, and so cold as not to hiss, if touched with anything wet, and draw it lightly over the wax. The painting will appear as if under a cloud till the wax is perfectly cold, as also whatever the picture is painted upon is quite cold; but if, when so, the painting should not appear sufficiently clear, it may be held before the fire, so far from it as to melt the wax but slowly; or the wax may be melted by holding a hot poker at such a distance as to melt it gently, especially such parts of the picture as should not appear sufficiently transparent or brilliant; for the oftener heat is applied to the picture, the greater will be the transparency and brilliancy of coloring; but the contrary effect would be produced if too sudden or too great a degree of heat was applied, or for too long a time, as it would draw the wax too much to the surface, and might likewise crack the paint. Should the coat of wax put over the painting, when finished, appear in any part uneven, it may be remedied by drawing a moderately hot iron over it again, as before-mentioned, or even by scraping the wax with a knife; and should the wax, by too great or too long application of heat, form into bubbles at particular places, by applying a poker heated, or even a tobacco-pipe made hot, the bubbles would subside; or such defects may be removed by drawing anything hard over the wax, which would close any small cavities.

When the picture is cold, rub it with a fine linen cloth. Paintings may be executed in this manner upon wood (having first pieces of wood let in behind, across the grain of the wood, to prevent its warping), canvas, card, or plaster of Paris. The plaster of Paris would require no other preparation than mixing some fine plaster of Paris, in powder, with cold water, the thickness of a cream; then put it on a looking-glass, having first made a frame of bees'-wax on the looking-glass, the form and thickness you would wish the plaster of Paris to be of, and when dry take it off, and there will be a very smooth surface to paint upon. Wood and canvas are best covered with some gray tint, mixed with the same composition of gum-arabic, gum mastic, and wax, and of the same sort of colors as before-mentioned, before the design is begun, in order to cover the grain of the wood or the threads of the canvas. Paintings may also be done in the same manner, with only gum-water and gum-mastic, prepared the same way as the mastic and wax; but instead of putting seven ounces of mastic, and, when boiling, adding five ounces of wax, mix twelve ounces of gum-mastic with the gum-water, prepared as mentioned in the first part of this receipt; before it is put on the fire, and when sufficiently boiled and beaten, and is a little cold, stir in, by degrees, twelve ounces, or three-quarters of a pint (wine measure) of cold spring water, and afterwards strain it. It would be equally practicable painting with wax alone, dissolved in gum-water in the following manner: Take twelve ounces, or three-quarters of a pint (wine measure) of cold spring water, and four ounces and a half of gum-arabic, put them into a glazed earthen vessel, and when the gum is dissolved, add eight ounces of white wax. Put the earthen vessel, with the gum-water and wax, upon a slow fire, and stir them till the wax is dissolved, and has boiled a few minutes; then take them off the fire, and throw them into a basin, as by remaining in the hot earthen vessel the wax would become rather hard; beat the gum-water and wax till quite cold. As there is but a small proportion of water in comparison to the quantity of gum and wax, it would be necessary, in mixing this composition with the colors, to put also some fair water. Should the composition be so made as to occasion the ingredients to separate in the bottle, it will become equally serviceable, if shaken before used, to mix with the colors.

1379. The Best Season for Painting Houses.--The outside of buildings should be painted during autumn or winter. Hot weather injures the paint by drying in the oil too quickly; then the paint will easily rub off. But when the paint is laid on during cold weather, it hardens in drying, and is firmly set.

1380. A cheap and simple Process for Painting on Glass, sufficient for the purpose of making a Magic Lanthorn.--Take good clear resin, any quantity, melt it in an iron pot; when melted entirely, let it cool a little, and before it begins to harden, pour in oil of turpentine sufficient to keep it liquid when cold. In order to paint with it, let it be used with colors ground in oil, such as are commonly sold in color shops.

1381. To make Phosphorus.--Two-third parts of quick-lime (i.e. calcined oyster-shells), and one-third of flour of brimstone, put into a crucible for an hour, and exposed to the air for an hour, become phosphorus.

1382. To make an Illuminated or Phosphoric Bottle, which will preserve its Light for several months.--By putting a piece of phosphorus, the size of a pea, into a phial, and adding boiling oil until the bottle is a third full, a luminous bottle is formed; for, on taking out the cork, to admit atmospheric air, the empty space in the phial will become luminous.

Whenever the stopper is taken out in the night, sufficient light will be evolved to show the hour upon a watch; and if care be taken to keep it, in general, well closed, it will preserve its illuminative power for several months.

1383. To Marble Books or Paper.--Marbling of books or paper is performed thus:--Dissolve four ounces of gum arabic in two quarts of fair water; then provide several colors mixed with water in pots or shells, and with pencils peculiar to each color; sprinkle them by way of intermixture upon the gum-water, which must be put into a trough, or some broad vessel; then, with a stick, curl them, or draw them out in streaks to as much variety as may be done. Having done this, hold your book, or books, close together, and only dip the edges in, on the top of the water and colors, very lightly; which done, take them off, and the plain impression of the colors in mixture will be upon the leaves; doing as well the ends as the front of the book in like manner, and afterwards glazing the colors.

1384. To Write Secretly on a Pocket Handkerchief.--Dissolve alum in pure water, and write upon a fine white handkerchief, which, when dry, will not be seen at all; but when you would have the letters visible, dip the handkerchief in pure water, and it will be of a wet appearance all over, except where it was written on with the alum water.

You may also write with alum water upon writing paper, which will not be visible till dipped in water.

1385. To keep Insects out of Bird-Cages.--Tie up a little sulphur in a silk bag, and suspend it in the cage. For mocking-birds this is essential to their health; and the sulphur will keep all the red ants and other insects from cages of all kinds of birds. Red ants will never be found in a closet or drawer, if a small bag of sulphur is kept constantly in these places.

1386. Of Books, Mental Cultivation, &c.--Our work would be incomplete, without some reference to mental as well as material improvement. In truth, we have aimed, throughout this and a former book,[C] to make the connection between the cultivation of the mental faculties and true household economy apparent. To work properly, we must think rightly. Science is as necessary in the kitchen as in the laboratory. The reason why men cooks are preferred above women cooks, and better paid, is, the former study their art as a science. Knowledge is power, in domestic life as well as in the political arena. Let the woman elevate her position by her learning; let her understand the nature and influence of her daily employments, cultivating her taste and refining her manners by the true standard of moral excellence; thus making her home-pursuits conduce to the harmony and happiness of the general plan of life in which she, the wife and mother, is the centre of attraction and volition, and how important for humanity her sphere becomes.

1387. Choice of Reading.--Never keep house without books. Life is not life to any great purpose where books are not. The BIBLE is indispensable. Out of its treasures of Divine wisdom all best human wisdom is derived or directed. Then have other books, as your means permit. If these are rightly chosen, every volume will be a teacher, a friend--a fountain, from whence may be drawn sweet streams of pleasure and profit. Poetry, story, biography, history, essays, and religious works--I name these in the order a child chooses books--all are needed. American literature--that is, books on subjects connected with our own country, should be first in our reading. Bancroft's "History of the United States," Sparkes' "American Biographies," Lippincott's "Cabinet Histories of the States," Mrs. Ellet's "Women of the Revolution"--these should be accessible to every family in the Union. Read on every subject connected with your own pursuits and employments. Knowledge will aid you even in hand labor; and a good book is a safe refuge in idle hours.

1388. Of Periodicals and Newspapers.--Every family should take a newspaper; this, the lady of the house should insist upon--kindly, to be sure; for a pleasant request is as powerful as "a soft answer" in "turning away wrath." Men, usually, are willing to subscribe for a paper, though some are indifferent to this great source of family instruction as well as pleasure; but they forget, when the year comes round, to renew their subscription in the right way. So the women of the family should be sure to remember the printer.

Another important source of family improvement is the periodicals or monthly magazines. These are now, thanks to the cheap postage system, accessible to the dwellers in the most remote places of our wide land. As a work for our own sex, Godey's Lady's Book is the best that can be taken in a family, because it furnishes information on every branch of home duties and pursuits; and moreover, upholds that pure standard of morals in its lightest fiction, which renders it a safe enjoyment for the young.

Many other periodicals might be named, all excellent of their kind, and where the expense can be afforded, each household should obtain one or more of these. A better way would be for a neighborhood to unite and take a half dozen different publications, securing the inestimable advantage of reading every month the best religious, medical, agricultural, scientific, literary, and illustrated magazines--thus keeping up with the progress of art, the march of mind, the material advancement, and the moral improvement of the world.

1389. How can we Pay for the Magazines?--Is the question with many families. Very easily, if you have the will--one half of the money spent on tobacco would, if laid out in books, soon give every family a library. And, young ladies, if you cannot persuade your brothers to throw aside their cigars, and subscribe, why, look over this book, and see, if from its economical hints you cannot devise some plan of earning or saving, whereby you may be able to pay for the magazines. Do this one year; husband or brother will then be ready to aid. Woman has everything to gain from Christian civilization; she should lead the way.

Spotted a typo or a problem in this chapter? Tell us

VIII. ELEGANT AND INGENIOUS ARTS, ETC

Water-Colors--Potichomanie--Grecian Painting--Diaphanic Feather Flowers--Sea-Weeds--Botanical Specimens--Leaves--Plants--Fungi--Transferring--Etching--Staining --Leather-work--Games, etc.

1390. Home Pursuits, etc.--See Part III., page 151.

1391. Accomplishments.--These are very desirable for the household, because the inmates are made happier by refined and ingenious arts and pursuits, and are fitted to improve the taste of others.

1392. Children and young persons, of both sexes, should learn as many of these arts as they possibly can without neglecting duties. Pleasant modes of employing leisure hours save people from many temptations, and add much to the happiness of life.

WATER-COLORS USED IN DRAWING.

1393. Indian Ink.--The best is stamped with Chinese characters, breaks with a glossy fracture, and feels smooth when rubbed on the plate.

1394. Hair Pencils are made of camel's-hair; if they come to a point, when moistened, without splitting, they are good.

1395. Drawing Paper.--That made without any wire marks, and called wove paper, is the best; it is made of various sizes and thicknesses.

1396. To make a good White.--Clarify white lead with white-wine vinegar. After the powder has settled, pour off the vinegar, put the powder into a glass of water, stir it, and pour the water off while it is white into another glass; when it is settled, pour off the water, and an excellent white will be obtained. To this add gum enough to give it a gloss.

DIRECTIONS FOR MIXED COLORS.

1397. Ash Color.--Ceruse white, Keating's black and white, shaded with cherry-stone black.

1398. Bay.--Lake and flake white, shaded with carmine; bistre and vermilion shaded with black.

1399. Changeable Silk.--Red lead and masticot water, shaded with sap-green and verdigris.

1400. Another.--Lake and yellow, shaded with lake and Prussian blue.

1401. Cloud Color.--Light masticot, or lake and white, shaded with blue verditer.

1402. Another.--Constant white and Indian ink, and a little vermilion.

1403. Another.--White, with a little lake and blue verditer, make a good cloud color for that part next the horizon.

1404. Crimson.--Lake and white, with a little vermilion, shaded with lake and carmine.

1405. Flame Color.--Vermilion and orpiment, heightened with white.

1406. Another.--Gamboge, shaded with minium and red lead.

1407. Flesh Color.--Ceruse, red lead, and lake, for a swarthy complexion, and yellow ochre.

1408. Another.--Constant white and a little carmine, shaded with Spanish liquorice washed with carmine.

1409. French Green.--Light pink and Dutch bice, shaded with green pink.

1410. Glass Grey.--Ceruse, with a little blue of any kind.

1411. Hair Color.--Musticot, ochre, umber, ceruse, and cherry-stone black.

1412. Lead Color.--Indigo and white.

1413. Light Blue.--Blue bice, heightened with flake white.

1414. Another.--Blue verditer, and white of any sort, well ground.

1415. Light Green.--Pink, smalt, and white.

1416. Another.--Blue verditer and gamboge.

1417. Another.--Gamboge and verdigris. This is chiefly used for the ground colors of trees, fields, &c.

1418. Lion Tawny.--Red lead and masticot, shaded with umber.

1419. Murrey.--Lake and white lead.

1420. Orange.--Red lead and a little masticot, shaded with umber.

1421. Orange Tawny.--Lake, light pink, a little masticot, shaded with gall-stone and lake.

1422. Pearl Color.--Carmine, a little white, shaded with lake.

1423. Popinjay Green.--Green and masticot; or pink and a little indigo, shaded with indigo.

1424. Purple.--Indigo, Spanish brown, and white; or blue bice, red and white lead; or blue bice and lake.

1425. Russet.--Cherry-stone black and white.

1426. Scarlet.--Red lead and lake, with or without vermilion.

1427. Sea Green.--Bice, pink and white, shaded with pink.

1428. Sky Color.--Light masticot and white, for the lowest and lightest parts; second, red ink and white; third, blue bice and white; fourth, blue bice alone. These are all to be softened into one another at the edges, so as not to appear harsh.

1429. Sky Color for Drapery.--Blue bice and ceruse, or ultramarine and white, shaded with indigo.

1430. Straw Color.--Masticot and a very little lake, shaded with Dutch pink.

1431. Yellow Color.--Indigo, white, and lake; or fine Dutch bice and lake, shaded with indigo; or litmus smalt and bice, the latter predominant.

1432. Water.--Blue and white, shaded with blue, and heightened with white.

1433. Another.--Blue verdigris, shaded with indigo, and heightened with white.

1434. To prevent Colors from Cracking.--Boil two ounces of the best and clearest glue, with one pint of clear water, and a half an ounce of alum, till dissolved. With this temper those colors intended for the sky.

1435. To make a Solution of Gum.--Dissolve an ounce of white gum arabic, and half an ounce of double refined sugar, in a quart of spring water; strain it through a piece of muslin, and bottle it to keep it free from dust.

1436. To keep Flies from the Work.--Having prepared the gum water for the colors, add a little coloquintida.

1437. To prepare Alum Water.--Take four ounces of alum, and a pint of spring water; boil it till the alum is thoroughly dissolved, and then filter it through blotting-paper.

1438. To use Alum Water.--Before laying on the colors, take some of this water, hot, and with a sponge wet the back of the paper, which, if not good, must be wet three or four times, letting the paper dry each time before wetting it again. This will prevent the sinking of the colors, and give them additional lustre.

1439. To make Lime Water.--Put unslaked lime in a well-glazed pan; cover it with pure water, and let it remain for one day. Then strain off the water. This water will change sap-green into blue.

TO PREPARE WASH COLORS FOR MAPS.

1440. Blue.--Dilute Saxon blue with water; or to the solution of litmus add distilled vinegar.

1441. Green.--Dissolve verdigris in distilled water and add gum arabic.

1442. Or, dissolve sap-green in water and add gum.

1443. Red.--Steep Brazil dust in vinegar, with alum. Or, dissolve litmus in water and add spirit of wine.

1444. Or, steep cochineal in water, strain, and add gum.

1445. Yellow.--Dissolve gamboge in water; or French berries steeped in water the liquor strained, and gum arabic added.

TO MIX WATER-COLORS FOR ANIMALS.

1446. Horses, Black.--Black lightly laid on, shaded with Keating's black and bistre, heightened with masticot.

1447. Horses, Chestnut Brown.--Red ochre and black mixed together, shaded with black, heightened with red ochre and white.

1448. Horses, Gray.--Black and white mixed, shaded with black, white, and bistre; heightened with pure water.

1449. Lions.--Color much in the same manner as horses, adding lake in the ground color.

1450. Bears.--Brown ochre, red ochre, and black, mixed; shaded with bistre and ivory black.

1451. Wolves.--Spanish liquorice and black, shaded with black.

1452. Asses.--Black and white mixed; or, add a little brown ochre, shaded with black.

1453. Elephants.--Black, white, and Spanish liquorice, mixed; shaded with black and bistre; the inner part of the nose, vermilion and white, shaded with black.

1454. Monkeys.--Dutch pink and black, heightened with masticot and white: the face, black and bistre mixed, as also their feet; their bodies, shaded underneath with black and pink mixed with a little brown ochre.

FRUIT IN WATER COLORS.

1455. Apples.--Thin masticot mixed with verdigris, shaded with brown ochre.

1456. Cherries.--Vermilion and lake, shaded with carmine, heightened with vermilion and white.

1457. Grapes, Blue.--Dark purple shaded with blue; the bloom, bice.

1458. Grapes, White.--Verdigris and masticot mixed, shaded with thin verdigris heightened with masticot and white.

1459. Peaches.--Thin masticot shaded with brown ochre; the bloom, lake heightened with white.

1460. Pears.--Masticot deepened and mellowed with brown ochre.

1461. Strawberries.--White; draw it over with vermilion and lake, shaded with fine lake, heightened with red lead and masticot mixed, and then with white; stipple them with white and thin lead.

TO PAINT FLOWERS.

1462. Anemones.--A thin wash of gamboge shaded with bistre; or carmine and sap-green blended together. The stripes carmine, shaded with the same; indigo in the darkest parts, or stipple with it.

1463. Leaves.--Sap green, shaded with indigo and French berries; the stalk brown.

1464. Honeysuckles.--Inside of the petals, white shaded with sap-green, or gamboge and bistre.

1465. The insides are to be shown by curling the leaves back at the ends, or by splitting them.

1466. The outsides, a thin wash of carmine and lake mixed, shaded with carmine--indigo for the darkest shades.

1467. Stalks.--Sap-green and carmine.

1468. Leaves.--Sap-green, shaded with indigo and French berries.

1469. Roses.--A light tint of pure carmine, over which another equally light of Peruvian blue; proceed with the darker shades of carmine of the best sort.

1470. In the darkest part of the flower add a little indigo to give a roundness. If the seeds are seen lay on gamboge, shaded with gall-stone.

1471. Leaves.--Upper side, sap-green, shaded with indigo and French berries mixed; under-side, white indigo and sap green mixed, shaded with the same.

1472. Stalks.--Sap-green and carmine, shaded with indigo.

1473. Rose-buds.--A pale wash of carmine, shaded with a stronger wash of the same.

1474. Stalks and leaves, sap green with a slight wash of carmine.

BIRDS IN WATER-COLORS.

1475. Eagles.--Black and brown, shaded with indigo; feathers heightened by brown ochre and white; beak and claws saffron, shaded with bistre; eyes vermilion, heightened with masticot or saffron, shaded with vermilion.

1476. Geese.--Ceruse shaded with black; legs, black; bill, red.

1477. Owls.--Ochre mixed with white, in different shades; legs, yellow ochre.

1478. Pheasants.--White and black mixed; legs, Dutch pink, shaded with black.

1479. Swans.--White shaded with black; the legs and bills black; eyes yellow; a ball in the midst.

1480. Turkeys.--Back, black and white mixed, shaded off to a white underneath; sprinkled and shaded with black.

LANDSCAPES IN WATER-COLORS.

1481. Sketch the outlines faintly with a black-lead pencil. Then color.

1482. Colors.--The most useful are: lake, burnt ochre, gamboge, indigo, light red, sepia, Prussian blue, sienna, and burnt umber.

1483. The gray color is made of burnt umber, indigo, and lake; each rubbed separately in a saucer, and then so mixed in a fourth saucer as to produce the exact color--a warm gray. This is thinned for the light tints, as sky and distances.

Deeper is to be used for the shadows and near parts, softening with water till the exact effect is produced.

1484. Buildings are sometimes tinted with a mixture of lake and gamboge. Burnt ochre is also used. The shadows have an excess of lake.

1485. Breadths of Light are obtained by destroying the scattered lights with grays.

1486. Clouds are produced by a thin mixture of indigo and lake. They should be tinted with sepia. The lower or horizontal clouds are tinged with ultramarine.

1487. Figures are touched with lake and indigo.

1488. Force is acquired by adding sepia to indigo, in the cold parts, and sepia with lake to the glowing parts.

1489. Grass is washed with a mixture of burnt sienna, indigo, and gamboge; that in shadow has more indigo. Grass and bushes may be brought out by a tint of gamboge; distances may be heightened by lake.

1490. Hills, retiring.--Tint the whole with weak blue; then the nearer ones with indigo and lake; add a little gamboge to the next, keeping one subordinate to the other; the most distant being lost in the aerial tints.

1491. Land, distant.--Ultramarine and lake. Ground near is tinted with ochre.

1492. Road and Paths.--A mixture of lake, burnt umber, and burnt sienna. It may be tinted with ochre.

1493. Smoke.--Lake and indigo.

1494. Trees, distant.--Ultramarine, with a wash of indigo, gamboge, and burnt sienna, tinted with gray. The middle distance trees have a thin wash of burnt sienna and gamboge. Nearer trees a wash of burnt sienna, indigo, and gamboge. In the shadows more indigo is used.

1495. Opposing masses of trees are tinted with sepia and indigo.

1496. Windows.--Indigo and burnt umber.

POTICHOMANIE.

1497. This elegant accomplishment, which has become so extremely popular and fashionable, promises not only to supercede altogether many of those meretricious accomplishments which have hitherto absorbed the attention of our fair countrywomen, but to rank among the fine arts.

1498. Advantages of this Art.--It possesses many advantages: and the process is simple and easily acquired.

1499. It is an exceedingly pleasing and interesting employment, requiring no previous knowledge of drawing, yet affording abundant space for the exercise of the most exquisite taste.

1500. The time employed is richly repaid; the results produced are of actual value; articles of ornament and domestic utility being produced, in perfect imitation of the most beautiful Chinese and Japanese porcelain, of Sèvres and Dresden china, and of every form that is usual in the productions of the Ceramic Art.

1501. It furnishes an inexhaustible and inexpensive source for the production of useful and elegant presents, which will be carefully preserved as tokens of friendship, and as proofs of the taste and talent of the giver.

1502. Articles necessary in the Art of Potichomanie.--Glass vases (Potiches en verre,) of shapes suitable to the different orders of Chinese, Japanese, Etruscan, and French porcelain, Alumettes, &c.; cups, plates, &c., &c., of Sèvres and Dresden design.

1503. Sheets of colored drawings or prints, characteristic representations of the designs or decorations suitable to every kind of porcelain and china.

1504. A bottle of liquid gum, and three or four hog-hair brushes.

1505. A bottle of varnish, and very fine pointed scissors for cutting out.

1506. An assortment of colors for the foundation, in bottles.

1507. A packet of gold powder, and a glass vessel for diluting the colors.

1508. Directions.--We will suppose the object selected for imitation to be a Chinese vase.

1509. After providing yourself with a plain glass vase, of the proper shape, you take your sheets of colored prints on which are depicted subjects characteristic of that peculiar style.

1510. From these sheets you can select a great variety of designs, of the most varied character, on the arrangement and grouping of which you can exercise your own taste.

1511. After you have fully decided upon the arrangement of your drawings, cut them out accurately with a pair of scissors, then apply some liquid gum carefully over the colored side of the drawings, and stick them on the inside of the vase, according to your own previous arrangement--pressing them down till they adhere closely, without any bubbles of air appearing between the glass and the drawings.

1512. When the drawings have had sufficient time to dry, take a fine brush and cover every part of them (without touching the glass) with a coat of parchment size or liquid gum, which prevents the oil color (which is next applied) from sinking into or becoming absorbed by the paper.

1513. When the interior of the vase is perfectly dry, and any particles of gum size that may have been left on the glass have been removed, your vase is ready for the final and most important process.

1514. You have now to tint the whole of the vase with a proper color to give it the appearance of porcelain; for up to this time, you will recollect, it is but a glass vase, with a few colored prints stuck thereon.

1515. Select from your stock of prepared colors, in bottles, the tint most appropriate to the kind of china you are imitating (as we are now supposed to be making a Chinese vase, it will be of a greenish hue), mix fully sufficient color in a glass vessel, then pour the whole into the vase.

1516. Take now your vase in both hands, and turn it round continually in the same direction, until the color is equally spread over the whole of the interior: when this is satisfactorily accomplished, pour back the remainder. If the prepared color is too thick, add a little varnish to the mixture before applying it.

1517. If preferred, the color may be laid on with a soft brush. Should the vase be intended to hold water, the interior must be well varnished after the above operations, or lined with zinc or tin foil.

1518. If the Potichomanist wishes to decorate the mouth of his vase with a gold border, he can do so by mixing some gold powder in a few drops of the essence of lavender and some varnish, applying it on the vase with a fine brush; or he can purchase gold bands, already prepared for application, in varied sheets, suitable to the Potichomanie designs.

1519. Potichomanists have found the art capable of greater results than the mere imitation of porcelain vases, by the introduction of glass panels (previously decorated with beautiful flowers on a white ground) into drawing-room doors, and also into walls which, being panel papered, offer opportunities of introducing centre pieces of the same character as the doors; elegant chess and work-tables, folding and cheval-screens, panels for cabinets, chiffoniers and book-cases, slabs for pier and console-tables, glove-boxes, covers for books, music, albums, &c.

1520. The most common cause of failure is, that the drawings inside are not thoroughly pressed down.

GRECIAN PAINTING.

1521. Grecian Painting is the art of imitating oil paintings.

1522. This truly beautiful imitation, if well done, is so perfect that none save connoisseurs can discern, at sight, the difference.

1523. Engravings best suited to this style of painting are mezzotint or aquatint, though fine lithographs are used.

1524. Rule First.--Procure a frame one inch longer than the engraved part of the print.

1525. Second.--Cut the engraving the size of the frame, then make a stiff paste, and spread it thickly on the frame.

1526. Third.--Place the engraving face down and sponge it gently with water; then press the frame firmly and evenly down on; leave it till entirely dry (not by the fire), and it will become even and tight.

1527. To make the Grecian Varnish.--Take one part turpentine, two parts alcohol (90 proof), three parts balsam of fir, and mix.

1528. To use the Varnish.--Pour sufficient spirits of turpentine on the back of the picture to moisten it well, then put on the varnish and rub it thoroughly with a stiff brush, and continue to apply it until the picture is perfectly transparent.

1529. Spots.--Leave the picture for twenty-four hours, after which if white spots appear, showing that the varnish has not been effectual, repeat the process. Sometimes it has to be done several times.

1530. Drying.--Place the picture, face downward, where it will be free from dust, and leave it three or four days.

1531. Paints.--These are put on the back of the engraving.

1532. Eyes.--For blue eyes, permanent blue and white; for hazel eyes, yellow ochre and Van Dyke brown.

1533. Flesh Tints.--Flake white, with a very little vermilion and Naples yellow.

1534. Foliages.--Chrome yellow and Prussian blue, with any of the browns.

1535. Sky.--Clouds touched in with white; the rest permanent blue and white.

1536. Water.--The light parts with white, the rest the same as the sky. If a bright scene, and with trees, of a greenish brown.

1537. Hair and Eyebrows.--Yellow ochre and Van Dyke brown, or raw sienna.

1538. Backgrounds.--The most agreeable tint is a greenish brown.

1539. White Background.--Flake and silver white.

1540. Buff Background.--Naples yellow.

1541. Orange Background.--Chrome yellow, with vermilion.

1542. Blue Background.--Flake white and Prussian blue.

1543. Gray Background.--White, Prussian blue, and vermilion.

1544. Pink Background.--White and vermilion.

1545. Crimson Background.--Vermilion and white, with carmine.

1546. Green Background.--Chrome yellow and Prussian blue.

1547. Paints for the Front of the Picture.--Drying oil must be used with all the colors on the front.

1548. Shading for the Flesh on the Front.--Carmine and Van Dyke brown laid on lightly, and the edges touched off with the finger.

1549. Cheeks.--Carmine; soften the edges carefully.

1550. Lips.--Carmine, with a touch of vermilion.

1551. Hair and Eyebrows.--Yellow lake and Van Dyke brown.

1552. Draperies.--These are always painted on the back, and shaded on the front with Van Dyke brown.

1553. Backgrounds.--If plain, glaze with yellow lake.

1554. Foliages.--Yellow lake and Van Dyke brown.

1555. General Directions.--First--Lay the paint thickly on the back, and be careful to cover every part, but not to go over the edges.

1556. Second--When the painting is finished let it dry four days, and then cover the front with a coat of mastic varnish.

1557. Materials required, are a palette, palette-knife, flat varnish brush, three sizes of bristle brushes, three sizes of table brushes, drying oil, mastic varnish, spirits of turpentine, Grecian varnish.

1558. Colors used are oil colors in tubes. Those generally needed are silver white, Naples yellow, yellow ochre, brilliant yellow, vermilion, Prussian blue, raw sienna, ivory black, carmine, yellow lake, Van Dyke brown.

1559. If economy is an object, some of the above-mentioned materials can be dispensed with.

DIAPHANIE.

1560. This is a beautiful, useful, and inexpensive art, easily acquired, and producing imitations of the richest and rarest stained glass; and also of making blinds, screens, skylights, Chinese lanterns, &c., in every variety of color and design.

1561. In decorating his house, an American spends as much money as he can conveniently spare; the elegancies and refinements of modern taste demand something more than mere comfort: yet though his walls are hung with pictures, his drawing-room filled with bijouterie, how is it that the windows of his hall, his library, his staircase, are neglected?

1562. The reason is obvious. The magnificent historical old stained glass might be envied, but could not be brought within the compass of ordinary means. Recent improvements in printing in colors led the way to this beautiful invention, by which economy is combined with the most perfect results.

1563. A peculiar kind of paper is rendered perfectly transparent, upon which designs are printed in glass colors (vitre de couleurs), which will not change with the light.

1564. The paper is applied to the glass with a clear white varnish, and when dry, a preparation is finally applied, which increases the transparency, and adds tenfold brilliancy to the effect.

1565. There is another design, printed in imitation of the half-light (abat-jour); this is used principally for a ground, covering the whole surface of the glass, within which (the necessary spaces having been previously cut out before it is stuck on the glass), are placed medallion centres of Watteau figures, perfectly transparent, which derive increased brilliancy from the semi-transparency of the surrounding ground.

1566. To ascertain the quantity of designs required, measure your glass carefully, and then calculate how many sheets it will take. The sheets are arranged so that they can be joined together continuously, or cut to any size or shape.

1567. Practical Instructions.--Choose a fine day for the operation, as the glass should be perfectly dry and unaffected by the humidity of the atmosphere.

1568. Of course, if you have a choice, it is more convenient to work on your glass before it is fixed in the frame. If you are working on a piece of unattached glass, lay it on a flat table (a marble slab is preferable), over which you must previously lay a piece of baize or cloth to keep the glass steady.

1569. The glass being thus fixed, clean and polish the side on which you intend to operate (in windows this is the inner side), then with your brush lay on it very equably a good coat of the prepared varnish; let this dry for an hour, more or less, according to the dryness of the atmosphere and the thickness of the coat of varnish.

1570. Meantime cut and trim your designs carefully to fit the glass (if it is one entire transparent sheet you will find it little trouble); then lay them on a piece of paper, face downwards, and damp the back of them with a sponge, applied several times, to equalize the moisture.

1571. After this operation, arrange your time so that your designs may now be finally left to dry for fifteen minutes before application to the glass, the varnish on which has now become tacky or sticky, and in a proper state to receive them.

1572. Apply the printed side next to the glass without pressure; endeavor to let your sheet fall perfectly level and smooth on your glass so that you may avoid leaving creases, which would be fatal.

1573. Take now your palette, lay it flat on the design, and press out all the air bubbles, commencing in the centre, and working them out from the sides; an ivory stick will be found useful in removing creases; you now leave this to dry, and after twenty-four hours apply a slight coat of the liqueur diaphane, leaving it another day, when if dry, apply a second coat of the same kind, which must be left several days: finally, apply a coat of varnish over all.

1574. If these directions are carefully followed, your glass will never be affected by time or by any variations in the weather: it will defy hail, rain, frost and dust, and can be washed the same as any ordinary stained glass, to which, in some respects, it is even superior.

1575. It is impossible to enumerate the variety of articles to the manufacture of which Diaphanie may be successfully applied, as it is not confined to glass, but can be done on silk, parchment, paper, linen, &c., after they have been made transparent, which may be accomplished in the following manner:--

1576. Stretch your paper, or whatever it may be, on a frame or drawing board, then apply two successive coats (a day between each,) of diaphanous liquor, and after leaving it to dry for several days, cover it with a thin layer of very clear size, and when dry it will be in a fit state to receive the coat of varnish and the designs.

1577. Silk, linen, or other stuffs, should be more carefully stretched, and receive a thicker coat of size than paper or parchment; the latter may be strained on a drawing or any other smooth board, by damping the sheet, and after pasting the edges, stretching it down while damp. Silk, linen, and other stuffs require to be carefully stretched on a knitting or other suitable frame.

1578. Take great care to allow, whatever you use, time to dry before applying the liqueur diaphane.

1579. All kinds of screens, lamp-shades, and glasses, lanterns, &c., &c., may be made in this way, as heat will produce no effect upon them.

1580. The transparent pictures are successful, because they may be hung on a window frame or removed at will, and the window blinds are far superior to any thing of that kind that have yet been seen.

1581. Instead of steeping the designs in the transparent liquor at the time of printing them, which was previously done in order to show their transparency to the purchaser, but which was practically objectionable, as the paper in that state was brittle, and devoid of pliancy, necessitating also the use of a peculiarly difficult vehicle to manage (varnish) in applying it to the glass, the manufacturer now prepares his paper differently, in order to allow the use of parchment size in sticking them on the glass.

1582. The liqueur diaphane, which is finally applied, renders them perfectly transparent. In this mode of operation, no delay is requisite, the designs being applied to the glass immediately after laying on the size, taking care to press out all the air bubbles, for which purpose a roller will be found indispensable.

1583. The designs should be damped before the size is applied to them. We are of opinion that this art may be applied to the production of magic-lantern slides, dissolving views, and dioramic effects; though we are not aware whether such experiments have been tried.

FEATHER FLOWERS.

1584. The art of making feather flowers, though a very easy and inexpensive accomplishment, and yielding pretty ornaments for the mantel-piece or the chiffonier, is but little pursued.

1585. Many persons are under the impression that they can only be made from the feathers of exotic birds, and that these are expensive. But the following instructions will dispel this misconception, and remove the difficulty.

1586. Procure the best white geese or swans' feathers, have them plucked off the fowl with care not to break the web, free them from down, except a small quantity on the shaft of the feather.

1587. Having procured two good specimens of the flower you wish to imitate, carefully pull off the petals of one, and, with a piece of tissue paper, cut out the shape of each size, taking care to leave the shaft of the feather at least half an inch longer than the petal of the flower.

1588. Carefully bend the feather with the thumb and finger to the proper shape; mind not to break the web.

1589. To make the Stem and Heart of a Flower.--Take a piece of wire six inches long: across the top lay a small piece of cotton wool, turn the wire over it, and wind it round until it is the size of the heart or centre of the flower you are going to imitate.

1590. If a single flower, cover it with paste or velvet of the proper color, and round it must be arranged the stamens; these are made of fine India silk, or feathers may be used for this purpose.

1591. After the petals have been attached, the silk or feather is dipped into gum, and then into the farina. Place the petals round, one at a time, and wind them on with Moravian cotton, No. 4; arrange them as nearly like the flower you have for a copy as possible.

1592. Cut the stems of the feathers even, and then make the calix of feathers, cut like the pattern or natural flower. For the small flowers, the calix is made with paste. Cover the stems with paper or silk the same as the flowers; the paper must be cut in narrow strips, about a quarter of an inch wide.

1593. To make the Pastes of the Calix, Hearts, and Buds of Flowers.--Take common white starch, and mix it with gum water until it is the substance of thick treacle; color it with the dyes used for the feathers, and keep it from the air.

1594. To make the Farina.--Use common ground rice, mixed into a stiff paste with any dye; dry it before the fire, and when quite hard, pound it to a fine powder.

1595. The buds, berries, and hearts of some double flowers are made with cotton wool, wound around wire, moulded to the shape with thumb and finger.

1596. Smooth it over with gum water, and when dry cover the buds, berries, or calix with the proper colored pastes; they will require one or two coats, and may be shaded with a little paint, and then gummed and left to dry.

1597. Flowers of two or more shades or colors are variegated with water-colors, mixed with lemon-juice, ultra-marine and chrome for blue, and gold may also be used in powder, mixed with lemon-juice and gum water.

1598. The materials required are some good white goose or swan's feathers; a little fine wire, different sizes; a few skeins of fine floss silk, some good cotton wool or wadding, a reel of No. 4 Moravian cotton, a skein of India silk, the starch and gum for pastes, and a pair of small sharp scissors, a few sheets of colored silk paper, and some water-colors, with the following dyes:--

1599. To Dye Feathers Blue.--Into two pennyworths of oil of vitriol, mix two pennyworths of the best indigo in powder; let it stand a day or two; when wanted shake it well, and into a quart of boiling water put one tablespoonful of the liquid.

1600. Stir it well, put the feathers in, and let them simmer a few minutes.

1601. Yellow.--Put a tablespoonful of the best turmeric into a quart of boiling water; when well mixed, put in the feathers.

1602. More or less of the turmeric will give them different shades, and a very small quantity of soda will give them an orange hue.

1603. Green.--Mix the indigo liquor with turmeric, and pour boiling water over it; let the feathers simmer in the dye until they have acquired the shade you want them. (See 289.)

1604. Pink.--Three good pink saucers in a quart of boiling water, with a small quantity of cream of tartar. If a deep color is required, use four saucers. Let the feathers remain in the dye several hours.

1605. Red.--Into a quart of boiling water dissolve a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, put in one tablespoonful of prepared cochineal, and then a few drops of muriate of tin.

1606. This dye is expensive, and scarlet flowers are best made with the plumage of the red Ibis, which can generally be had of a bird-fancier or bird-stuffer, who will give directions how it may be applied.

1607. Lilac.--About two teaspoonfuls of cudbear, into about a quart of boiling water; let it simmer a few minutes before you put in the feathers. A small quantity of cream of tartar turns the color from lilac to amethyst.

1608. Black.--Use the same as for cloth.

1609. Crimson.--Dip in acetate of alumina mordant, then in a boiling-hot decoction of Brazil wood--and, last of all, pass through a bath of cudbear.

1610. Before the feathers are dyed they must be put into hot water, and let them drain before they are put into the dyes.

1611. After the feathers are taken out of the dye, rinse them two or three times in clear cold water (except the red), which must only be done once. Then lay them on a tray, over which a cloth has been spread, before a good fire; when they begin to dry and unfold, draw each feather gently between your thumb and finger, until it regains its proper shape.

1612. The leaves of the flowers are made of green feathers, cut like those of the natural flower, and serrated at the edge with a very small pair of scissors.

1613. For the calix of a moss-rose the down is left on the feather, and is a very good representation of the moss on the natural flower.

1614. To Preserve Sea-Weed.--This is a delicate process, and may be made like beautiful pictures.

1615. First Process.--Wash the sea-weed in fresh water, then take a plate or dish (the larger the better), cut your paper to the size required, place it on the plate with fresh water, and spread out the plant with a good sized camel-hair pencil in a natural form. Picking out with the pin gives the sea-weed an unnatural appearance, and destroys the characteristic fall of the branches, which should be carefully avoided.

1616. Then gently raise the paper with the specimen out of the water, placing it in a slanting position for a few moments, so as to allow the superabundant water to run off: after which place it in the press.

1617. The Press.--The press is made with either three pieces of board or pasteboard. Lay on the first board two sheets of blotting-paper; on that lay your specimens; place straight and smooth over them a piece of old muslin, fine cambric, or linen: then some more blotting-paper, and place another board on the top of that, and continue in the same way.

1618. The Finishing.--The blotting-paper and the muslin should be carefully removed and dried every day, and then replaced: at the same time, those specimens that are sufficiently dried may be taken away. Nothing now remains but to write on each the name, date, and locality.

1619. The Specimens.--You can either gum the specimens in a scrap-book, or fix them in, as drawings are often fastened, by making four slits in the page, and inserting each corner.

1620. This is by far the best plan, as it admits of their removal, without injury to the page, at any future period, if it be required either to insert better specimens, or intermediate species. Some of the larger Algæ will not adhere to the paper, and consequently require gumming.

1621. Another Way.--After well cleaning and pressing, brush the coarser kinds of Algæ over with spirits of turpentine, in which two or three small lumps of gum mastic have been dissolved, by shaking in a warm place; two-thirds of a small phial is the proper proportion, and this will make the specimens retain a fresh appearance.

BOTANICAL SPECIMENS, LEAF IMPRESSIONS, ETC.

1622. The plants you wish to preserve should be gathered when the weather is dry, and after placing the ends in water, let them remain in a cool place till the next day.

1623. When about to be submitted to the process of drying, place each plant between several sheets of blotting-paper, and iron it with a large smooth heater, pretty strongly warmed, till all the moisture is dissipated.

1624. Colors may thus be fixed, which otherwise become pale, or nearly white.

1625. Some plants require more moderate heat than others, and herein consists the nicety of the experiment; but I have generally found, that if the iron be not too hot, and is passed rapidly, yet carefully, over the surface of the blotting-paper, it answers the purpose equally well with plants of almost every variety of hue and thickness.

1626. In compound flowers, with those also of a stubborn and solid form as the Centaurea, some little art is required in cutting away the under part, by which means the profile and forms of the flowers will be more distinctly exhibited.

1627. This is especially necessary, when the method employed by Major Velley is adopted: viz., to fix the flowers and fructification down with gum upon the paper previous to ironing, by which means they become almost incorporated with the surface.

1628. When this very delicate process is attempted, blotting-paper should be laid under every part excepting the blossoms, in order to prevent staining the white paper. Great care must be taken to keep preserved specimens in a dry place.

1629. Skeleton leaves may be made by steeping leaves in rain water, in an open vessel, exposed to the air and sun. Water must occasionally be added to compensate loss by evaporation.

1630. The leaves will putrefy, and then their membranes will begin to open; then lay them on a clean white plate, filled with clean water, and with gentle touches take off the external membranes, separating them cautiously near the middle rib. When there is an opening toward the latter the whole membrane separates easily.

1631. The process requires a great deal of patience, as ample time must be given for the vegetable tissues to decay, and separate.

1632. A more Expeditious Method.--A tablespoonful of chlorid of lime in a liquid state, mixed with a quart of pure spring water.

1633. Leaves or seed-vessels of plants to be soaked in the mixture for about four hours, then taken out and well washed in a large basin filled with water, after which they should be left to dry with free exposure to light and air.

1634. Some of the largest species of forest leaves, or such as have strong ribs, will require to be left rather more than four hours in the liquid.

1635. Dwarf Plants.--Take a cutting of the plant you wish to dwarf, say a myrtle, for instance, and having set it in a pot, wait until you are satisfied that it has taken root; then take a cutting from it, and place it in a miniature flower-pot, taking care to fill it more than three parts with fine sand, the remainder with mould.

1636. Put it under a glass on the chimney-piece, or in any warm place, and give it very small quantities of water.

1637. Preserve Fungi.--Receipt of the celebrated botanist, William Withering, Esq., by which specimens of fungi may be beautifully preserved.

1638. Take two ounces of sulphate of copper, or blue vitriol, and reduce it to powder, and pour upon it a pint of boiling water, and when cold, add half a pint of spirits of wine; cork it well, and call it "the pickle."

1639. To eight pints of water add one pint and a-half of spirits of wine, and call it "the liquor."

1640. Be provided with a number of wide-mouthed bottles of different sizes, all well fitted with corks. The fungi should be left on the table as long as possible to allow the moisture to evaporate.

1641. They should then be placed in the pickle for three hours, or longer, if necessary; then place them in the bottles intended for their reception, and fill with the liquor.

1642. They should then be well corked and sealed, and arranged in order with their names in front of the bottles.

1643. Leaf Impressions.--Hold oiled paper in the smoke of a lamp, or of pitch, until it becomes coated with the smoke; to this paper apply the leaf of which you wish an impression, having previously warmed it between your hands, that it may be pliable.

1644. Place the lower surface of the leaf upon the blackened surface of the oil paper, that the numerous veins that are so prominent on this side may receive from the paper a portion of the smoke.

1645. Lay a paper over the leaf, and then press it gently upon the smoked paper, with the fingers, or with a small roller, (covered with woolen cloth, or some like soft material), so that every part of the leaf may come in contact with the sooted oil-paper.

1646. A coating of the smoke will adhere to the leaf.

1647. Then remove the leaf carefully, and place the blackened surface on a sheet of white paper, not ruled, or in a book prepared for the purpose, covering the leaf with a clean slip of paper, and pressing upon it with the fingers, or roller, as before.

1648. Thus may be obtained the impression of a leaf, showing the perfect outlines, together with an accurate exhibition of the veins which extend in every direction through it, more correctly than the finest drawing.

1649. This process is so simple, and the material so easily obtained, that any person, with a little practice to enable him to apply the right quantity of smoke to the oil-paper, and give the leaf a proper pressure, can prepare beautiful leaf impressions, such as a naturalist would be proud to possess.

1650. There is another, and we think, a better method of taking leaf impressions than the preceding one.

1651. Leaf Impressions in Ink.--After warming the leaf between the hands, apply printing ink, by means of a small leather ball containing cotton, or some soft substance, or with the end of the finger.

1652. The leather ball (and the finger when used for that purpose), after the ink is applied to it, should be pressed several times on a piece of leather, or some smooth surface, before each application to the leaf, that the ink may be smoothly and evenly applied.

1653. After the under surface of the leaf has been sufficiently inked, apply it to the paper, where you wish the impression; and after covering it with a slip of paper, use the hand or roller to press upon it, as described in the former process. (See 711, page 176.)

1654. Impressions from Coins.--Melt a little isinglass glue with brandy, and pour it thinly over the medal, &c., so as to cover its whole surface; let it remain on for a day or two, till it has thoroughly dried and hardened, and then take it off, when it will be fine, clear, and as hard as a piece of Muscovy glass, and will have a very elegant impression of the coin. It will also resist the effects of damp air, which occasions all other kinds of glue to soften and bend, if not prepared in this way.

TRANSFERRING TO GLASS, WOOD, ETC.

1655. The process of transferring consists in causing the ink of a print, engraving, mezzotint, or lithograph, to adhere to the surface of glass, wood, cardboard, ivory, or earthenware, which is effected by cementing the face of the prints to their surface by means of some varnish or glutinous transparent body that will not dissolve in water, and then destroying the texture of the paper, so as to leave the ink upon the varnish and material operated on, in the same manner as if the original impression had been there, but of course reversed.

1656. Materials.--The body to which the print is to be transferred.

1657. Spirits and oil of turpentine; oil and varnish colors; seed-lac, white and transfer varnishes; oil of almonds; spirit of wine; a flat and a round brush, and a towel.

The Varnishes.--The seed-lac and white varnishes.

1658. The Transfer Varnish.--Take five ounces of the best spirit of wine, add four ounces of the purified Venice turpentine to it, and an ounce of picked mastic tears; put them into a bottle, shake constantly until the mastic and turpentine dissolve, and in a few hours it will be fit for use, but improves by keeping.

1659. To Transfer to Glass.--Procure a piece of the best crown-glass, as near as possible in size and shape to the print to be transferred, varnish it over with a mixture of equal parts of spirits and oil of turpentine, and lay the print on the glass, beginning at one end, and pressing it gently down with a towel in every part in proceeding to the other.

1660. If this is not done carefully, vesicles of air will be admitted between the paper and glass, and mar the effect. After pressing the print down with the towel, it is to be set aside to dry, which will take some time, varying according to the state of the atmosphere.

1661. When the turpentine has become perfectly hard, the paper must be moistened with water till it is thoroughly saturated, and the paper entirely removed by rubbing very gently with the forefinger in a circular direction, and then set aside to dry, when the impression will be found perfectly transferred, but reversed.

1662. If it is wished to preserve only the appearance of an engraving, a sheet of white paper or Bristol-board must be placed behind the glass; but if required to be colored, the operation must be completed with oil or varnish colors, in such a manner as may impart to it the semblance of a painting.

1663. To Transfer to Wood.--Procure a piece of wood of the required form and size; if flat, it should be newly planed, and rubbed down with pumice-stone and fine sand-paper to make it perfectly smooth and free from grease; if rounded or any other shape, it should be scraped with a piece of glass, then pumiced and sand-papered.

1664. Give the wood a coat of transfer varnish previous to transferring, and set aside for twenty-four hours to dry.

1665. This promotes adhesion of the print to the wood, and secures the latter from being soiled.

1666. Cut off the white margin of the print, then damp it by placing it face upward on the surface of some water in a shallow vessel, taking care to keep the face or printed side dry; when properly soaked, pass a sponge over the back, spread a coat of varnish over the whole of the face, and apply immediately to the wood.

1667. Rub down the whole gently with a towel, in the same manner as directed for glass, so that it may adhere properly. When this has been done, and while the back is yet moist, rub it carefully with the forefinger until half the thickness of the paper is removed, then leave it to dry.

1668. Then wet the finger only, and keep rubbing until the remainder of the paper is removed, and there is a thin white film over all, allowing the print to appear clean through; then let it dry, and bring out with a little oil of almonds; after which apply a coat of carriage-varnish, or the seed-lac and animi varnish used for white japan grounds, though we prefer the transfer-varnish ourselves.

1669. Great care and patience must be exercised during the process of rubbing off, to avoid scratching or tearing the print; if, however, any part is destroyed, it must be repaired with the same color.

1670. In this manner plain or colored prints may be transferred from paper to wood.

1671. When colored prints are transferred, they should be laid on vinegar and water (two-thirds of the former and one of the latter), to destroy the size which is in the paper, and remain twice as long as plain prints; then removed and placed between blotting-paper, and when the superfluous moisture has been removed, treated the same as the other prints.

1672. To Clean the Brushes and your hands after using the varnishes, rub with spirit of wine.

1673. To Transfer to Ivory.--Rub well with pumice-stone, and then transfer in the same manner as directed above.

1674. To Transfer to Card-board.--Remove the sizing on the surface by immersing in the vinegar and water mentioned above, then transfer as usual.

1675. To Transfer to Earthenware.--Give the article a thin coating of varnish, then transfer as directed above.

1676. Etching on Glass.--Mix in a gallipot a little sulphuric acid and lampblack to a thin smooth paste, and spread a layer of it on a piece of glass; upon which trace with a sharp-pointed instrument, (penetrating to the glass,) any design which may suggest itself.

1677. Then dissolve a little fluor-spar, coarsely powdered, in spirit of turpentine, and with a camel's-hair brush lay some of the solution upon the parts so traced; let it remain an hour or two; and you will find, on scraping off the paste, that the glass will be etched with whatever forms you have traced.

1678. Very pleasing drawings may thus be etched upon glass; and they may be rendered more effective by dusting the outline with a little vermilion.

EMBLEMATIC STONES.

1679. The Jewels of the Months.--In Poland, according to a superstitious belief, each month of the year is under the influence of some precious stone, which influence is attached to the destiny of persons born during the course of the month.

1680. It is, in consequence, customary amongst friends, and more particularly between lovers, to make, on birthdays, reciprocal presents, consisting of some jewel ornamented with the tutelar stone. It is generally believed that this prediction of happiness, or rather of the future destiny, will be realized according to the wishes expressed on the occasion.

1681. January.--The stone of January is the Jacinth, or Garnet, which denotes constancy and fidelity in any sort of engagement.

1682. February.--The Amethyst, a preservative against violent passions, and an assurance of peace of mind and sincerity.

1683. March.--The Bloodstone is the stone of courage and wisdom in perilous undertakings, and firmness in affection.

1684. April.--The Sapphire, or Diamond, is the stone of repentance, innocence, and kindliness of disposition.

1685. May.--The Emerald. This stone signifies happiness in love, and domestic felicity.

1686. June.--The Agate is the stone of long life, health, and prosperity.

1687. July.--The Ruby, or Cornelian, denotes forgetfulness of, and exemption from, the vexations caused by friendship and love.

1688. August.--The Sardonyx. This stone denotes conjugal felicity.

1689. September.--The Chrysolite is the stone which preserves and cures madness and despair.

1690. October.--The Aqua-Marine, or Opal, signifies distress and hope.

1691. November.--The Topaz signifies fidelity and friendship.

1692. December.--The Turquoise is the stone which expresses great sureness and prosperity in love, and in all the circumstances of life.

STAINING.

1693. General Observations.--When alabaster, marble, and other stones, are colored, and the stain is required to be deep, it should be poured on boiling-hot, and brushed equally over every part if made with water; if with spirit, it should be applied cold, otherwise the evaporation, being too rapid, would leave the coloring matter on the surface, without any, or very little, being able to penetrate.

1694. In grayish or brownish stones, the stain will be wanting in brightness, because the natural color combines with the stain; therefore, if the stone be of a pure color, the result will be a combination of the color and stain.

1695. Bone or Ivory.--In staining bone or ivory, the colors will take better before than after polishing; and if any dark spots appear, they should be rubbed with chalk, and the article dyed again to produce uniformity of shade. On removal from the boiling-hot dye-bath, the bone should be immediately plunged into cold water, to prevent cracks from the heat.

1696. Paper or Parchment is stained; a broad varnish brush should be employed to lay the coloring on evenly.

1697. Wood.--When the stains for wood are required to be very strong, it is better to soak and not brush them; therefore if for inlaying or fine work, the wood should be previously split or sawn into proper thicknesses, and when directed to be brushed several times over with the stains, it should be allowed to dry between each coating.

1698. To Varnish.--When it is wished to render any of the stains more durable and beautiful, the work should be well rubbed with Dutch or common rushes after it is colored, and then varnished with seed-lac varnish, or if a better appearance is desired, with three coats of the same, or shellac varnish.

1699. Common Work only requires frequent rubbing with linseed oil and woolen rags. The remainder, with the exception of glass, will be treated of in this paper.

1700. Alabaster, Marble and Stone, may be stained of a yellow, red, green, blue, purple, black, or any of the compound colors, by the stains used for wood.

1701. Bone and Ivory.--Black.--Lay the articles for several hours in a strong solution of nitrate of silver, and expose to the light.

1702. Boil the article for some time in a strained decoction of logwood, and then steep it in a solution of per-sulphate or acetate of iron.

1703. Immerse frequently in ink, until of sufficient depth of color.

1704. Blue.--1. Immerse for some time in a dilute solution of sulphate of indigo--partly saturated with potash--and it will be fully stained. 2. Steep in a strong solution of sulphate of copper.

1705. Green.--1. Dip blue-stained articles for a short time in nitro-hydrochlorate of tin, and then in a hot decoction of fustic. 2. Boil in a solution of verdigris in vinegar until the desired color is obtained.

1706. Red.--Dip the articles first in the tin mordant used in dyeing, and then plunge into a hot decoction of Brazil wood--half a pound to a gallon of water--or cochineal.

1707. Steep in red ink until sufficiently stained.

1708. Scarlet.--Use lac-dye instead of the preceding.

1709. Violet.--Dip in the tin mordant, and then immerse in a decoction of logwood.

1710. Yellow.--Impregnate with nitro-hydrochlorate of tin, and then digest with heat in a strained decoction of fustic.

1711. Second.--Steep for twenty-four hours in a strong solution of the neutral chromate of potash, and then plunge for some time in a boiling solution of acetate of lead.

1712. Third.--Boil the articles in a solution of alum--a pound to half a gallon--and then immerse for half an hour in the following mixture.

1713. Take half a pound of turmeric, and a quarter of a pound of pearlash; boil in a gallon of water. When taken from this, the bone must be again dipped in the alum solution.

1714. Horn must be treated in the same manner as bone and ivory for the various colors given under that heading.

1715. In Imitation of Tortoise-Shell.--First steam and then press the horn into proper shapes, and afterward lay the following mixture on with a small brush, in imitation of the mottle of tortoise-shell.

1716. Second.--Take equal parts of quick lime and litharge, and mix with strong soap-lees; let this remain until it is thoroughly dry, brush off, and repeat two or three times, if necessary.

1717. Such parts as are required to be of a reddish brown, should be covered with a mixture of whiting and the stain.

1718. Iron.--Black, for Ship's Guns, Shot, etc.--To one gallon of vinegar add a quarter of a pound of iron rust, let it stand for a week; then add a pound of dry lamp-black, and three-quarters of a pound of copperas; stir it up for a couple of days.

1719. Lay five or six coats on the gun, &c., with a sponge, allowing it to dry well between each. Polish with linseed oil and soft woolen rag, and it will look like ebony.

1720. Paper and Parchment.--Blue.--Stain it green with the verdigris stain given below, and brush over with a solution of pearlash--two ounces to the pint--till it becomes blue.

1721. Use the blue stain for wood.

1722. Green and Red.--The same as for wood. (See 717, page 178.)

1723. Orange.--Brush over with a tincture of turmeric, formed by infusing an ounce of the root in a pint of spirits of wine; let this dry, and give another coat of pearlash solution, made by dissolving two ounces of the salt in a quart of water.

1724. Purple.--Brush over with the expressed juice of ripe privet berries. The same as for wood.

1725. Yellow.--Brush over with tincture of turmeric.

1726. Add anatto or dragon's blood to the tincture of turmeric, and brush over as usual. (See 716, page 178.)

1727. Wood.--Black.--Drop a little sulphuric acid into a small quantity of water, brush over the wood and hold it to the fire; it will be a fine black, and receive a good polish.

1728. Second.--Take half a gallon of vinegar, an ounce of bruised nut-galls, of logwood chips and copperas each half a pound--boil well; add half an ounce of the tincture of sesquichlorid of iron, formerly called the muriated tincture, and brush on hot.

1729. Third.--Use the stain given for ships' guns.

1730. Fourth.--Take half a gallon of vinegar, half a pound of dry lamp-black, and three pounds of iron rust sifted. Mix, and let stand for a week. Lay three coats of this on hot, and then rub with linseed oil, and you will have a fine deep black.

1731. Fifth.--Add to the above stain an ounce of nut-galls, half a pound of logwood chips, and a quarter of a pound of copperas; lay on three coats, oil well, and you will have a black stain that will stand any kind of weather, and one that is well suited for ships' combings, &c.

1732. Sixth.--Take a pound of logwood chips, a quarter of a pound of Brazil wood, and boil for an hour and a half in a gallon of water. Brush the wood several times with this decoction while hot. Make a decoction of nut-galls by simmering gently for three or four days a quarter of a pound of the galls in two quarts of water; give the wood three coats of this, and while wet lay on a solution of sulphate of iron (two ounces to a quart), and when dry oil or varnish.

1733. Seventh.--Give three coats with a solution of copper filings in aquafortis, and repeatedly brush over with the logwood decoction, until the greenness of the copper is destroyed.

1734. Eighth.--Boil half a pound of logwood chips in two quarts of water, add an ounce of pearlash, and apply hot with a brush. Then take two quarts of the logwood decoction, and half an ounce of verdigris, and the same of copperas; strain and throw in half a pound of iron rust. Brush the work well with this, and oil.

1735. Blue.--Dissolve copper filings in aquafortis, brush the wood with it, and then go over the work with a hot solution of pearlash (two ounces to a pint of water), till it assumes a perfectly blue color.

1736. Boil a pound of indigo, two pounds of woad, and three ounces of alum in a gallon of water; brush well over until thoroughly stained.

1737. Green.--Dissolve verdigris in vinegar, and brush over with the hot solution until of a proper color.

1738. Mahogany Color.--Dark.--1. Boil half a pound of madder and two ounces of logwood chips in a gallon of water, and brush well over while hot; when dry, go over the whole with pearlash solution, two drachms to the quart.

1739. Second.--Put two ounces of dragon's blood, bruised, into a quart of oil of turpentine; let the bottle stand in a warm place, shake frequently, and, when dissolved, steep the work in the mixture.

1740. Light Red Brown.--Boil half a pound of madder and a quarter of a pound of fustic in a gallon of water; brush over the work when boiling-hot, until properly stained.

1741. Second.--The surface of the work being quite smooth, brush over with a weak solution of aquafortis, half an ounce to the pint, and then finish with the following:--Put four ounces and a half of dragons blood and an ounce of soda, both well bruised, to three pints of spirit of wine; let it stand in a warm place, shake frequently, strain, and lay it on with a soft brush, repeating until of a proper color; polish with linseed oil or varnish.

1742. Purple.--Brush the work several times with the logwood decoction used for No. 6 Black, and when dry give a coat of pearlash solution, one drachm to a quart, taking care to lay it on evenly.

1743. Red.--1. Boil a pound of Brazil wood and an ounce of pearlash in a gallon of water, and while hot brush over the work until of a proper color. Dissolve two ounces of alum in a quart of water, and brush the solution over the work before it dries.

1744. Second.--Take a gallon of the above stain, add two more ounces of pearl ash; use hot, and brush often with the alum solution.

1745. Third.--Use a cold infusion of archil, and brush over with the pearlash solution used for No. 1 dark mahogany.

1746. In imitation of Rosewood.--1. Boil half a pound of logwood in three pints of water till it is of a very dark red, add half an ounce of salt of tartar; stain the work with the liquor while boiling hot, giving three coats; then with a painter's graining-brush form streaks with No. 8 black stain; let dry, and varnish.

1747. Second.--Brush over with the logwood decoction used for No. 6 black, three or four times; put half a pound of iron filings into two quarts of vinegar; then with a graining-brush or cane, bruised at the end, apply the iron filing solution in the form required, and polish with beeswax and turpentine when dry, or varnish.

ORNAMENTED LEATHER WORK.

1748. An excellent imitation of carved oak, suitable for frames, boxes, vases, and ornaments in endless variety, may be made of a description of leather called Basil.

1749. The art consists in simply cutting out this material in imitation of natural objects, and in impressing upon it by simple tools, either with or without the aid of heat, such marks and characteristics as are necessary to the imitation.

1750. The rules given with regard to the imitation of leaves and flowers (1887) apply to Ornamental Leather Work.

1751. Begin with a simple object, and proceed by degrees to those that are more complicated.

1752. The tools required are ivory or steel points of various sizes, punches, and tin shapes, such as are used for confectionary. The points may be made out of the handles of old tooth-brushes.

1753. Before cutting out the leaves, the leather should be well soaked in water, until it is quite pliable. When dry, it will retain the artistic shape.

1754. Cut out an ivy or an oak leaf, and impress the veins upon it; then arrange these in groups, and affix them to frames, or otherwise.

1755. Leaves and stems are fastened together by means of liquid glue, and varnished with any of the drying varnishes, or with sealing-wax dissolved to a suitable consistency in spirits of wine.

1756. Wire, cork, gutta-percha, bits or stems of trees, &c., may severally be used to aid in the formation of groups of buds, flowers, seed-vessels, &c.

DYEING.

(SEE PAGES 74, 75, 76.)

1757. Dye Hair and Feathers Green.--Take of verdigris or verditer, of each one ounce: gum water, one pint; mix them well, and dip the hair or feathers into the mixture, shaking them well about.

1759. Cleansing Feathers of their Animal Oil.--The following receipt gained a premium from the Society of Arts:

1760. Take for every gallon of clean water one pound of quicklime, mix them well together, and when the undissolved lime is precipitated in fine powder, pour off the clean lime-water for use.

1761. Put the feathers to be cleaned in another tub, and add to them a quantity of the clean lime-water, sufficient to cover them about three inches, when well immersed and stirred about therein.

1762. The feathers, when thoroughly moistened, will sink down, and should remain in the lime-water three or four days; after which the foul liquor should be separated from them, by laying them in a sieve.

1763. The feathers should be afterward well washed in clean water, and dried upon nets, the meshes of which may be about the fineness of cabbage-nets.

1764. The feathers must be, from time to time, shaken on the nets, and as they get dry will fall through the meshes, and are to be collected for use. The admission of air will be serviceable in drying.

1765. The process will be completed in three weeks; and after being thus prepared, the feathers will only require to be beaten to get rid of the dust.

1766. Dyeing Eggs.--Wrap the egg in crimson silk ribbon (taking care that no part is uncovered), tack it on and boil it five minutes, and when it is divested of the ribbon the shell will be of a pretty mottled red; any colored ribbon may be used with a very pretty effect.

1767. Crystallization upon Cinders.--Saturate water, kept boiling, with alum; then set the solution in a cool place, suspending a cinder in it, by a hair or fine silk thread; as the solution cools, a beautiful crystallization will take place upon the cinder, which will resemble a specimen of mineralogical spar.

1768. Staining Grasses and Mosses.--Take some common powder-blue, mix with water, rather thin; take dry moss and dip it in, and let it soak a few minutes, take out and squeeze it--you will have a blue moss. Take light chrome yellow (as there are two sorts), mix with water, as before: with the same process you will have a yellow moss. Take some of the blue and some of the yellow, mix with water, as before, and you will have a green moss. You may have a variety of shades by adding or diminishing the yellow.

THE GAME OF DRAUGHTS.

1769. Rules of the Game.--The nine laws for regulating the game of draughts are as follows.

1770. Each player takes the first move alternately, whether the last game be won or drawn.

1771. Any action which prevents the adversary from having a full view of the men is not allowed.

1772. The player who touches a man must play him.

1773. In case of standing the huff ten minutes, the other may call upon him to play; and if, after that, he delay above five minutes longer, then he loses the game.

1775. In the losing game, the player can insist upon his adversary taking all the men, in case opportunities should present themselves for their being so taken.

1776. To prevent unnecessary delay, if one color have no pieces, but two kings on the board, and the other no piece but one king, the latter can call upon the former to win the game in twenty moves; if he does not finish it within that number of moves, the game to be relinquished as drawn.

1777. If there are three kings to two on the board, the subsequent moves are not to exceed forty.

LAWS OF CHESS.

1778. The rules given below are based upon the code published in "Walker's Art of Chess Play." The word piece frequently includes the pawn.

1779. If the board or pieces be improperly placed, or are deficient in number (except in the case of odds), the game must be recommenced, if the error is discovered before the fourth move on each side (the eighth move of the game.) If not discovered before this stage, the game must proceed.

1780. If the player gives odds, and yet omits to remove the odds from the board at the commencement, he may recommence the game, and remove the odds given, provided he discover his error before playing his fourth move.

1781. But if he has made his fourth move, the game must be played out; and should the player who agreed to give the odds win the game, it shall nevertheless be considered drawn.

1782. When parties play even, they draw lots for the first move of the first game. The first move is afterward taken alternately throughout the sitting, except when a game is drawn, when he who had the first move in that game still claims it, a drawn game being of no account.

1783. He who gains the move has also the choice of color. Each player uses the same color throughout the sitting. When a match is made for a given number of games, the move passes alternately throughout the match. A player giving odds has the choice of men, and takes the move in every game, unless agreed to the contrary.

1784. A player who gives the odds of a piece, may give it each game from the king's or queen's side, at his option. If he gives the odds of a pawn, he must give the king's bishop's pawn, unless otherwise stipulated.

1785. The player who receives the odds of a certain number of moves at the commencement, must not with those moves cross from his own half of the board.

1786. If a player, in his turn to play, touch one of his men, he must move that piece, if it can legally move, unless, when he first touches it, he says aloud, "J'adoube." No penalty is attached to touching a piece, unless it is your turn to move.

1787. If the player touch his king, with the intention of moving him, and then finds that he cannot do so without placing the king in check, no penalty can be inflicted on his replacing his king and moving elsewhere.

1788. [Otherwise?] If the player should touch a man which cannot be moved without placing his king in check, he must move his king instead.

1789. If a player about to move touch one of his adversary's men, without saying "J'adoube" when he first touches it, he must take that piece, if it can be lawfully taken.

1790. Should it not be taken, he must, as a penalty, move his king; but should the king be unable to play without going into check, no penalty can be enforced. It is not allowed to castle upon a compulsory move of the king.

1791. While you hold your piece you may move it anywhere allowed by the rules; but when you quit your hold the move is completed, and must be abided by.

1792. If you inadvertently move one of your adversary's pieces instead of your own, he may compel you to take the piece you have touched, should it be en prise; or to replace it and move your king, or to leave it on the square to which you have moved it, and forego any other move at that time.

1793. Should you capture one of the adverse pieces with another, instead of one of your own, the capture holds good, if your opponent so decides.

1794. If the player takes a piece through a false move, his adversary may compel him to take such piece with one that can lawfully take it, or to move the piece that has been touched, if such move does not expose the king to check, or he may be directed to move his king.

1795. If you take one of your own men, instead of one of your adversary's, you may be compelled to move one of the two pieces touched, at the option of your opponent.

1796. Mr. Walker thinks that the penalty should be to lose the man you have improperly taken off.

1797. An opponent has the option of punishing a false move, by claiming the false move as your move, by compelling you to move the piece touched, as you may think fit, or to replace the piece and move your king.

1798. The king must never be exposed to check by any penalty enforced.

1799. If you move twice running, you may be compelled to abide by both moves, or to retract the second.

1800. Unlimited time is allowed for the moves [unless otherwise agreed.] If one player insists upon the postponement of the termination of a game, against the will of his opponent, the game is forfeited by him who will not play on.

1801. When a pawn is moved two squares, it is liable to be taken, en passant, by a pawn, but not by a piece.

1802. If you touch both king and rook, intending to castle, you must move one of the two pieces, at the option of your adversary; or he may compel you to complete the castling.

1803. You cannot take a piece and castle at the same time; nor does the rook check as it passes to its new position; but it may check on its position after castling.

1804. False castling is liable to the same penalties as a false move.

1805. When a player gives the odds of a rook, he does not relinquish the right of castling on the side from which the rook has been taken, all other conditions being lawful, as if the rook were in its place.

1806. When you give check you must say so aloud.

1807. If check is not called on either side, but subsequently discovered, you must endeavor to recall all the moves back to the period when the check first occurred.

1808. You are not compelled to cry check when you attack the queen.

1809. If you cry check, and afterward alter your determination, you are not compelled to abide by the intention, provided you have not touched the piece.

1810. When a pawn reaches the opposite side of the board it may be replaced by any piece, at the option of the owner, and irrespective of the pieces already owned by him.

1811. Stale-mate is a drawn game.

1812. Drawn games count for nothing; and he who moved first in the drawn game moves first in the following.

1813. If you declare to win a game, or position, and only draw it, you are accounted the loser.

1814. When you have either of the following advantages of force, you are compelled to give check-mate in fifty moves, or the game is considered drawn:

1815. King and queen against king.

King and rook against king.

King and two bishops against king.

King, bishop, and knight, against king.

King and queen against king and rook.

King and rook against king and minor piece.

King and pawn against king.

King and two pawns against king and pawn.

1816. If you move after your adversary has made a false move, or committed other irregularity, you cannot claim the penalties.

1817. Spectators are forbidden to make remarks.

1818. Disputes to be referred to a third party.

EVENING PASTIME.

1819. Among the innocent recreations of the fireside, there are few more commendable and practicable than those afforded by what are severally termed Anagrams, Charades, Conundrums, Enigmas, Puzzles, Rebuses, Riddles, Transpositions, &c.

1820. Of these there are such a variety, that they are suited to every capacity; and they present this additional attraction, that ingenuity may be exercised in the invention of them, as well as in their solution.

1821. Many persons who have become noted for their literary compositions may date the origin of their success to the time when they attempted the composition of a trifling enigma or charade.

1822. Anagrams are formed by the transposition of the letters of words or sentences, or names of persons, so as to produce a word, sentence, or verse of pertinent, or of widely different meaning.

1823. They are very difficult to discover, but are exceedingly striking when good. The following are some of the most remarkable.

1824. Transposed Forms--Astronomers--No more stars; Catalogues--Got as a clue; Elegant--Neat leg; Impatient--Tim in a pet; Immediately--I met my Delia; Masquerade--Queen as mad; Parishioners--I hire parsons; Parliament--Partial men; Penitentiary--Nay I repent; Presbyterians--Best in prayer; Sweetheart--There we sat; Telegraphs--Great helps.

1825. Conundrums.--These are simple catches, in which the sense is playfully cheated, and are generally founded upon words capable of double meaning. The following are examples.

1826. If a person were looking at a conflagration by the names of what three great British writers, could he express his emotions?

1827. Dickens, How-itt Burns!

1828. The name of what class of persons, in Rome, might a bear be supposed to say when he was licking his paws after having eaten a little girl?

1829. Gladiator--Glad I ate her.

1830. Who first introduced salt provisions into the navy?

1831. Noah, when he took Ham into the ark.

1832. Why need a person never be hungry in the desert?

1833. Because of the sand which is there.--Sandwiches!

1834. Why is a clock the most modest thing in the world?

1835. Because it always keeps its hands before its face, and no matter how good its works are, it will run itself down.

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