Opening
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GAIRLOCH
IN NORTH-WEST ROSS-SHIRE
ITS RECORDS, TRADITIONS, INHABITANTS, AND NATURAL HISTORY
WITH A
GUIDE TO GAIRLOCH AND LOCH MAREE
AND A MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS
By JOHN H. DIXON, F.S.A. Scot.
INCLUDING CHAPTERS BY
_WILLIAM JOLLY, F.G.S., F.R.S.E.; THE REV. JOHN McMURTRIE, M.A.; AND PROFESSOR W. IVISON MACADAM, F.C.S., F.I.C., M.M.S., &c., EDINBURGH_
EDINBURGH CO-OPERATIVE PRINTING COMPANY LIMITED 1886
[Entered at Stationers' Hall.]
EDINBURGH CO-OPERATIVE PRINTING COMPANY LIMITED, BRISTO PLACE.
TO
SIR KENNETH S. MACKENZIE,
SIXTH BARONET AND THIRTEENTH LAIRD OF GAIRLOCH,
AND
HER MAJESTY'S LIEUTENANT OF ROSS-SHIRE,
Is Dedicated
THIS ACCOUNT OF THE ROMANTIC HIGHLAND PARISH
WITH WHICH, DURING FOUR CENTURIES,
HE AND HIS ANCESTORS HAVE BEEN SO INTIMATELY ASSOCIATED.
Preface
The preparation of the following account of Gairloch has been prompted by regard--almost affection--for this beautiful and interesting Highland parish. It is published in the hope that it may not only assist the tourist, but also be found to constitute a volume worthy of a nook in the great library of local history. Here and there some few general remarks on the subjects dealt with have necessarily been introduced by way of explanation or illustration, but in the main this book relates solely to Gairloch. I have tried to make short chapters, and to dispense with footnotes.
Without much assistance the work could not have been satisfactorily completed. The necessary help has been given with the greatest freedom and kindness. Sir Kenneth S. Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch, has himself furnished much valuable and accurate information, and Lady Mackenzie of Gairloch has kindly assisted. From Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie of Inverewe, youngest son of the late Sir Francis Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch, I have received a large amount of personal aid. Much of the information about the Mackenzies has been culled from the works of Mr Alexander Mackenzie (a native of Gairloch) with his consent. He is the able author of a copious history of the Mackenzies and other important books, and the editor of the Celtic Magazine, from which last the memoir of John Mackenzie of the "Beauties" and several of the traditions have been mainly taken. From the MS. "Odd and End Stories" of Dr Mackenzie, Eileanach, only surviving son of Sir Hector Mackenzie, Bart., eleventh laird of Gairloch, numerous quotations will be found. These extracts are published with the consent of Dr Mackenzie, as well as of Mr O. H. Mackenzie to whom he has given his MS. volumes. With one exception, wherever Dr Mackenzie is quoted the extract is taken from his "Odd and End Stories." The Dowager Lady Mackenzie of Gairloch has been so good as to prepare a short statement, from which extracts are made. Dr Arthur Mitchell, C.B., Senior Commissioner in Lunacy for Scotland, has permitted the use of his paper on the Isle Maree superstitions. Mr Jolly has contributed three valuable chapters, and the Rev. J. M'Murtrie and Professor W. Ivison Macadam have each given a chapter. To Mr William Mackay of Craigmonie, Inverness, I am indebted for full notes on ecclesiastical matters, and for extracts from the old records of the Presbytery of Dingwall. The Rev. Alexander Matheson, minister of Glenshiel, has supplied extracts from the records of the Presbytery of Lochcarron. I have to thank Messrs Maclachlan & Stewart, of Edinburgh, who in 1882 brought out a sumptuous edition of the "Beauties of Gaelic Poetry," by the late John Mackenzie, a Gairloch man, for permission to use the accounts of John Mackay (the blind piper), William Ross, William Mackenzie, and Malcolm Maclean, contained in the "Beauties." James Mackenzie, of Kirkton (brother of John Mackenzie of the "Beauties"), has furnished a large chapter of Gairloch stories, besides a number of facts, traditions, and anecdotes; wherever the name of James Mackenzie occurs in these pages, it is this worthy Highlander who is referred to. Other Gairloch traditions, stories, and information have been furnished by Kenneth Fraser, Leac nan Saighead (through the medium of the Celtic Magazine); Alexander Maclennan, Mossbank; Roderick Mackenzie (Ruaridh an Torra), Lonmor; George and Kenneth Maclennan, Tollie Croft; John Maclean (Iain Buidhe Taillear), Strath; Simon Chisholm, Flowerdale; Roderick Campbell, Tollie; Donald Ross, Kenlochewe; Alexander Mackenzie (Ali' Iain Ghlass), piper, Poolewe; George Maclennan, Londubh; and Alexander Maclennan (Alie Uistean), Inveran, who especially has given me considerable assistance. The legend of Ewan Mac Gabhar is mainly in the form given in the works of James Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd, supported to some extent by several of the old people now living in Gairloch. That enthusiastic friend of the Highlander, Professor Blackie, has kindly contributed two English versions of Gaelic songs; and Mr William Clements Good, of Aberdeen, has given similar aid. Professor W. Ivison Macadam has communicated the results of his analyses of ores and slags, and has assisted in examining the remains of the old ironworks. Mr D. William Kemp, of Trinity, Edinburgh, has generously done a very great deal to unravel the history of the ironworks, and in other ways. Lieutenant Lamont, of Achtercairn, has procured the traditions given on the authority of Ruaridh an Torra. Mr Mackintosh, postmaster, Poolewe, has supplied some anecdotes and facts. The Glossary has been prepared with the aid of Mr O. H. Mackenzie; the Rev. Ronald Dingwall, Free Church minister, Aultbea; Mr Alexander Cameron, the Tournaig bard; and Mr Alexander Maclennan, Inveran. The names of some others who have rendered valuable help are stated where their information is utilised. To all these ungrudging helpers, and to many others not mentioned by name, I beg to offer my sincere thanks.
To render the natural history of Gairloch complete, lists are still needed of the insects, sea-anemones, grasses, mosses, lichens, fungi, sea-weeds, and fresh-water weeds. Any information on these and other branches of natural history will be heartily welcomed, with a view to insertion in a possible future edition.
The process of zincography, by which nearly all the illustrations have been reproduced, has not in many cases realised my expectations, but it has been thought best to issue the book at once rather than wait until the illustrations could be rendered in a superior manner.
The profits, if any, from the sale of this book will be applied in aid of the Poolewe Public Hall.
JOHN H. DIXON.
Inveran, Gairloch, 1st September 1886.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
Flowerdale House, West Coast Residence of the Baronets of Gairloch Frontispiece
Loch Maree, from Inveran 9
Crosses on the Graves of the Prince and Princess on Isle Maree 10
At Ardlair 15
On Craig Tollie 22
Island or Crannog on Loch Tollie 25
Gairloch, from Strath 35
Glen Grudidh, from Loch Maree 42
Beinn Lair, from Fionn Loch 54
Chapel of Sand of Udrigil 70
Sir George Hay, of Megginish, Knight, the Ironfounder of Loch Maree Facing 75
The Minister's Stone, Ardlair 81
Sir George Hay, First Earl of Kinnoull, High Chancellor of Scotland, the Ironfounder of Loch Maree Facing 82
On the Ewe 96
A Mutch 130
Cabar Lar, or Turf Parer 131
Tor-sgian, or Peat Knife 133
Cliabh Moine, or Peat Creel 134
Highland Hand-Plough called Cas-Chrom, or "crooked foot" 135
A Gairloch Man 216
Umbrella Fir, Glas Leitire 305
Above Grudidh Bridge 306
Leth Chreag, Tollie 314
Dunan, on Loch Tournaig 319
Near Grudidh 322
Slioch, from Rudha Aird an Anail 326
Natural Arch, Cove 334
Curious Rocks, Sand of Udrigil 338
Loch Maree, from Ardlair 340
Clach a Mhail, Ardlair 342
Uamh a Mhail, Ardlair 343
ANTIQUITIES
From Drawings by Finlay Mackinnon. The numbers correspond with those given on pp. 103, 104.
PAGE
1. Bronze Ring, found at Londubh 103
2. Hollow Bronze Ring, found at Londubh 104
3. Bronze Spear Head, found, along with a Stag's Horn, near Inverewe House 104
4. Bronze Spear Head, found at Londubh 110
5. Bronze Celt, found at Slatadale 110
6. Stone Celt, found at Cove 113
7. Bronze Spear, found at Croft 117
8. Bronze Celt, found at Londubh 121
9. Stone Implement, found in Peat-Cutting between Inveran and Kernsary 124
10. Quern or Trough, found in a Broch or Pictish Round House at Tournaig 142
11. Fragment of Trough, found in a Broch or Pictish Round House at Tournaig 146
12. Bronze Penannular Ring, found at Londubh 150
13. Cast Iron Appliance, probably part of Machinery, from the Fasagh Ironworks 158
14. Tuyere, from the Fasagh Ironworks 163
NOTES.--The portraits of Sir George Hay, the Ironfounder of Loch Maree, are lithographed reproductions from photographs of pictures in Dupplin Castle, taken by permission of the present Earl of Kinnoull.
All the illustrations are original, except No. 12 of the Antiquities, which is reduced from that in Mr Jolly's paper on "Bronze Weapons and other Remains found near Poolewe."
The sketches for the illustrations of Flowerdale House and the Natural Arch at Cove are after photographs by Mr Fraser of Reilig. In no case have published photographs been used in the preparation of illustrations.
Map At the end
Introduction
Extent of Gairloch parish--Name--Curious muddle about "the Gairloch"--Name used in four senses--Attractions of Gairloch--Loch Maree--Superficial observation of tourists--A party declare they have "seen Loch Maree"--Inducements to longer visits--Credibility of old traditions--Gaelic names--Pronunciation--Interference with sportsmen and deer forests deprecated--Mountain ascents--Drawbacks to them--Shorter climbs recommended--Mania for exterminating plants--Instances xliii
I. EARLY HISTORY
Absence of ancient records--Giants in those days--Fingalian legends--Condition of Pictish aborigines--Their houses and implements--Druids--Roman invasion--Pictish monarchy--Introduction of Christianity--St Maelrubha--Hermits of Isle Maree--Norse vikings--Norwegians and Danes--End of Norwegian rule in 1263--The earls of Ross--Donald of the Isles--The Mackenzies 3
II. THE TRAGEDY OF ISLE MAREE
Scene laid in Isle Maree--The hermit saint--Prince Olaf--His fiery temper--Falls in love--Brings his bride to Isle Maree--Is compelled to leave her on an expedition--The white and black flags--Return of the prince--Jealousy of the princess--Her scheme to test Olaf's affection--His madness on seeing the black flag--Thinking her dead he kills himself--The princess stabs herself and dies--Their graves on Isle Maree 7
III. THE MACKENZIES OF KINTAIL
Two origins of the family of Mackenzie--The Cabar Feidh--Angus Mac Mhathain--Kenneth, first lord of Kintail--John, second lord, shelters Robert Bruce--Kenneth of the Nose--Kenlochewe ravaged--Leod Mac Gilleandreis--Black Murdo of the Cave--Joined by Gille Riabhach--Comes to Kenlochewe--Slays Leod Mac Gilleandreis and his followers--Ath nan Ceann--Fe Leoid--Black Murdo of the Cave recovers Kintail--Murdo of the Bridge, fifth lord of Kintail--Alexander the Upright, father of Hector Roy, first laird of Gairloch--Skirmish of Beallach nam Brog--Residences of lords of Kintail 11
IV. EWAN MAC GABHAR, THE SON OF THE GOAT
Ardlair--The cave of the king's son--Old Oighrig and her son Kenneth--The goat Earba nourishes Ewan in the cave--Flora and Ewan come to Letterewe--Ewan's sword and mantle of state--The lord of Kintail comes to hunt--Flora and Ewan suspected--Kenneth and Flora carried off to Eileandonain--Oighrig and Ewan conveyed to Colin Mor Gillespie--Colin Mor brings up Ewan--Great war against the queen widow of Olamh Mor--Ewan gets a command--His slender page--Mull plundered--The invaders surprised at night and captured--The queen condemns the chiefs to death--Ewan led forth to die--The execution arrested--Ewan identified and proclaimed king--Prophecy fulfilled 14
V. THE MACRAES OF KINTAIL AND GAIRLOCH
The Macraes settle in Kintail--Become Mackenzie's "shirt of mail"--The sons of Fortune--Assist in conquest of Gairloch--List of Macraes who fought for Gairloch--Effigy of Donald Odhair--Macraes renowned archers--Compared with Turkish archers--The Macraes bore the dead bodies of their chiefs to burial--The last occasion of this--Curious statement 19
VI. THE MACBEATHS
MacBeaths from Assynt--Some still in Gairloch--Had several strongholds--Lochan nan Airm--Kintail men come to Loch Tollie--Shoot MacBeath's servant on the island--MacBeath flies--Is struck by an arrow--Kintail men stay a night on the island--Come through Gairloch--Report to their chief 21
VII. THE M'LEODS OF GAIRLOCH
The Siol Torquil--Claim to Gairloch--Legal title commenced 1430--MacBeaths expelled--The Tigh Dige--Strongholds of the M'Leods--Eilean Ruaridh--Allan M'Leod, laird of Gairloch--Murdered by his brothers at the "Hill of evil counsel"--They also murder his two boys--The widow takes their bloody shirts to her father--Hector Roy takes the shirts to the king--Who gives Hector commission of fire and sword against the M'Leods--The M'Leods confined to one-third of Gairloch 24
VIII. THE MACDONALDS IN GAIRLOCH
Macdonalds, clansmen of Donald of the Isles--Probably some settled in Gairloch--Still in Gairloch and Alligin--Mac Gille Riabhaich--His cave--Story of his oak cudgel--The soubriquet Darach--His descendant, Darroch of Torridon--Donald Dubh Mac Gillechriosd Mhic Gille Riabhaich --Threatens Hector Roy--Slays Buchanan after Flodden Field 27
IX. HECTOR ROY MACKENZIE, FIRST LAIRD OF GAIRLOCH
Vision of the great chief and his bodyguard--His appearance and valour--Obtains charter to Gairloch--Slays three M'Leods at "the Gairloch"--The battle of Park--Hector Roy and Big Duncan of the Axe--Hector Roy at Sauchieburn--He claims Kintail--Battle of Drum a Chait--Big Duncan again assists--Hector Roy outlawed--Assists Mac Cailean--Kneels before the king--Grasps his hand--Is pardoned--Abandons his claim to Kintail--Fight with M'Leods at Beallach Glasleathaid--Big Duncan and his son Dugal--Hector Roy conquers part of Gairloch--Battle of Flodden--Clan Eachainn 29
X. JOHN GLASSICH MACKENZIE AND HIS SONS
John Glassich brought up in Strathglass--Claims Kintail--Refuses to join the royal standard--Apprehended by Kenneth of Kintail--Iain Gearr's pluck--Death of John Glassich--Donald Gorme invades Kenlochewe--Hector and Alexander, sons of John Glassich, both slain 36
XI. JOHN ROY MACKENZIE
John Roy resembled his grandfather Hector--His youth--Visits his mother, wife of Mackay--Goes with a bodyguard to Iain Liath at Glas Leitire--Lord Kintail abandons his hunt on the Glas Leitire hills--John Roy and Iain Liath go to Gairloch--Iain Dubh Mac Ruaridh M'Leod abandons the Gairloch dun--Struggles with the M'Leods--John Roy's family--His bodyguard composed of his twelve sons--Dealings with the tithes of Gairloch--The Talladale ironworks--John Roy's residence--Visits Mackay--Mackay's piper becomes John Roy's piper--Lord Mackenzie summons John Roy to Torridon--He stays the night with his lordship--Proposed assassination deferred--John Roy's sons arrive and take him away--Allies of Glengarry Macdonalds make an incursion to Kenlochewe--Lord Mackenzie visits John Roy--John Roy granted a remission by the crown 38
XII. EXPULSION OF THE M'LEODS FROM GAIRLOCH
Murchadh Riabhach na Cuirce--Slays Mac Iain Dhuibh M'Leod--Ruaridh Mac Allan M'Leod assassinates Iain Mac Ghille Challum M'Leod and his sons by Janet Mackenzie--John Roy revenges the murder--Expels the M'Leods from Gairloch--The Cnoc a Chrochadair--The affair at Leac nan Saighead--Mor Ban persuades the M'Leods to invade Gairloch--They come to Fraoch Eilean--Donald Odhar and his brother shoot them from Leac nan Saighead--Only two M'Leods escape in the birlinn--Donald Odhar's long shot from Craig a Chait--Young M'Leod of Assynt asks John Roy's daughter for his wife--Is refused--Fionnla Dubh na Saighead insults him--The M'Leods return to take vengeance on Finlay--He and Chisholm shoot many of them--Finlay pursues Neil M'Leod to the Bac an Leth-choin and shoots him at the Druim Carn Neill--Fight at Lochan an Fheidh--Affair at Raasay--Murdo Mackenzie in his ship driven into Kirkton--Young M'Leod of Raasay and his companions visit him--All the party get drunk except four Gairloch men--A fight ensues--Murdo drowned--All on board slain except three of the abstainers--They escape 43
XIII. ALASTAIR BREAC, AND HIS SON AND GRANDSON
Alastair Breac, a renowned warrior--Raids of cattle lifters--Iain Geal Donn proposes a raid on Gairloch--Alastair Buidhe Mackay intercepts him at Scardroy--Slays him and all his men except one--Alastair Breac sends the news to Lord Mackenzie--Cameron of Lochiel plans a raid on Gairloch in revenge--Alastair Breac sends eighty men to oppose him, but he has retired--Song composed to the Guard of the Black Corrie--Colla Ban--In default of blackmail threatens raid on Gairloch--His spies are frightened by four Gairloch men at Luibmhor--Kenneth, sixth laird of Gairloch, fined as a "malignant"--Alexander, seventh laird of Gairloch 49
XIV. THE BARONETS OF GAIRLOCH AND SOME OTHER GAIRLOCH MACKENZIES
Sir Kenneth, eighth laird of Gairloch--M.P. for Ross-shire--Sir Alexander, ninth laird of Gairloch--Builds Flowerdale--The "Forty-five"--Murder of the Gille Buidhe, valet to Prince Charlie--Duncan Macrae conveys a keg of gold for Prince Charlie's use--The "sian"--English man-of-war fires at Flowerdale--Sir Alexander, tenth laird of Gairloch--Builds Conan House--His son called "Fighting Jack," the father of the British army--Sir Hector Mackenzie--Lives at home--Lord-Lieutenant of Ross-shire--His beloved lady--Sir Francis Mackenzie--Publishes his "Hints" in 1838--Sir Kenneth, present baronet--Mackenzies of Letterewe--Mackenzies of Lochend--Mackenzies of Gruinard--Large family--Mackenzies of Kernsary--Summary of Mackenzie History--Crest, Badge, Slogan, and Pipe tunes 53
XV. GAIRLOCH ESTATES, AND OLD NAMES OF PLACES
Kenlochewe--Gairloch--Description in protocol of 1494--Description in retour of 1566--Description in 1638--Names in Dutch map of 1662--Second half of the water of Ewe bought in 1671--Strip on north of River Ewe acquired in 1844--Letterewe originally Kintail property--Acquired by Charles Mackenzie in 1696--Sold to Mr Bankes in 1835--Northern parts of Gairloch belonging to Gruinard Mackenzies before 1655--Sold to Davidson of Tulloch in 1795--Afterwards acquired by Mr Bankes--Mr O. H. Mackenzie's estate of Inverewe 60
XVI. ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY OF GAIRLOCH
First church in Gairloch--Other early ecclesiastical buildings--Rector of Gairloch at date of Reformation--Presbyterianism--Tulchan bishops--Changes from Episcopalianism to Presbyterianism--Rev. Alexander Mackenzie--Rev. Farquhar Macrae--Rev. Roderick Mackenzie--Rev. Kenneth Mackenzie of Kernsary--Rev. John Morrison--Persecuted by Episcopalians--Anecdotes--His turf-built church in Tollie Bay--Christmas story--Rev. James Smith--First school in Gairloch--Anecdote of Rev. Mr Sage--Rev. Æneas McAulay--Rev. John Dounie--Rev. James Russell--His imperfect Gaelic--Poolewe made a separate parish--The Disruption--Presbyteries of Dingwall, Kenlochewe, Chanonry, Gairloch, and Loch Carron--Churches in Gairloch--Manse and glebe at Achdistall, Cliff and Strath--Free churches and their ministers 63
XVII. ANCIENT GAIRLOCH IRONWORKS
Two classes of remains of ironworks--Rev. Donald M'Nicol's statement--Coin found near old Yorkshire ironworks--Iron implements used by ancient inhabitants--Disappearance of them accounted for--Other ancient remains in Sutherlandshire, Ross-shire, and Inverness-shire--Bog iron was the ore used of old in Gairloch--Processes of the ancient ironworkers--Wasteful richness of their slags accounted for--Charcoal was their fuel--The ancient forests of timber--Their disappearance--Water power anciently employed for working hammers 72
XVIII. THE HISTORIC IRONWORKS OF LOCH MAREE
The present series of Scottish ironworks commenced on Loch Maree--The licence to Archibald Primrose for making iron ratified in 1612--Spread of the iron industry in the eighteenth century--Iron furnaces in Glengarry--Abernethy furnaces of the York Buildings Company--The Bonawe furnace--The Argyle Furnace Company--The Lorn Company--The Carron ironworks--The Wilsonton works--Furnace at Goatfield--Pennant's notice of the furnace near Poolewe--The Fife Adventurers and the Lews--The Rev. Farquhar Macrae, vicar of Gairloch--The Letterewe furnace established in 1607 by Sir George Hay--Previous history of Sir George--His residence at Letterewe--His ironworks--The timber consumed--The goods produced--The improvements he effected--Act prohibiting the making of iron with wood--Monopoly of iron manufacture granted to Sir George--Ratified by Parliament--Proclamation restraining the export of iron ore--Licence to Sir George to sell iron in royal burghs--Sir George's probable acquaintance with John Roy Mackenzie, laird of Gairloch--Sir George's friendship with the Rev. Farquhar Macrae--The minister's stone--Sir George leaves Letterewe--His distinguished after-career--Created first Earl of Kinnoull--Continuance of the ironworks--Tombstone of John Hay--His probable relationship to Sir George--Discontinuance of the ironworks--The artisans employed--Whence they came--The Kemps--The Cladh nan Sasunnach--Condition of the ironworkers in the then state of the Highlands--The Big Englishman 75
XIX. THE IRON ORES USED IN GAIRLOCH
References to local iron ore--Local bog iron used at ancient bloomeries--Ferruginous rocks and shales--Traditional quarries--Richness of bog iron--Places where it is still found in Gairloch--Bog iron originally used by Sir George Hay--He afterwards imported red hematite and clayband ironstone--Mr Marr's description of these ores--They were landed at Poolewe--Remains of them there--Mr Macadam's analyses--Mixture with local ore--Classification of the ores 86
XX. REMAINS OF IRONWORKS IN THE PARISH OF GAIRLOCH
Mr Macadam's description of two classes of slag--List of six localities of ironworks--Glen Dochartie--Fasagh--Analyses--Lochan Cul na Cathrach--Furnace, Letterewe--Talladale--Garavaig, on Slatadale farm--Red Smiddy, near Poolewe--Iron articles found--The borings at Cuil an Scardain--Chronological order of the ironworks--Other supposed furnaces--Notices of ironworks or mines in old Dutch map, and in "Present State of Great Britain and Ireland"--Conclusion 90
XXI. ANTIQUITIES
Want of interesting remains of ancient buildings--Supposed Druidical remains in Tollie wood--Druidical enclosure on Isle Maree--The Island of Justice--Pictish round houses--Vitrified fort--Ancient duns, strongholds, or crannogs--Remains of churches--Gairloch church--Culinellan church--Turf-built church in Tollie Bay--Church at Tollie Croft, or Cruive End--Chapel of Inverewe--Chapel of Sand of Udrigil--Old burial-grounds--Remains of other old buildings--Remains on Isle Maree--On Eilean Ruaridh Beag--On Eilean Suainne--The Tigh Dige--The Sabhal-Geal--The Temple house--Old houses--Ancient weapons and implements--The Feill Iudha--Caves 97
I. ANCESTRY AND NAMES
Highlanders different to Scotch--Gairloch people originally Celtic--Admixture of blood--Mackenzies predominant--Surnames little used--Mode of constructing Gaelic names--Examples--Bynames--Curious names of girls 109
II. WARFARE AND WEAPONS
Gairloch a bone of contention--Broadsword and targe--Bows and arrows--Battle-axe--Dirk--Guns--Clan fights no more--Seaforth Highlanders--A Gairloch company--The press-gang--Donald M'Lean returns "from hell"--Volunteer corps--Story of Finlay Fraser and his guns 112
III. POLITY AND CUSTOMS
Improvement after the "Forty-five"--Increase of schools--Report on educational position of the people by Rev. James Russell--Education under the School Boards--Relief of the poor--Beggars almost unknown--Tramps--Tinkers--Old man seeking America--Her Majesty's note about him--Old marriage customs--Funeral customs--Whisky at funerals--Heaps of stones at halting-places--New Year's day, old style--Administration of justice at the Island of Justice--Mode of procedure--The Cnoc a Chroich, or Gallows Hill--Some old Gairloch men acquainted with folk-lore 114
IV. RELIGION AND RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCES
No records of Episcopal times--Sunday services--Baptism--The Lord's supper dispensed in the Leabaidh na Ba Bàine--Dr Mackenzie's account of churchgoing and the communions--Johnnie at church for the first time--Five days' services--Large crowd; few communicants--Preparation for Gairloch communion--The scene in the Leabaidh--Aunt Sally--Characteristics of Free Church services and religion 117
V. CHARACTER AND CHARACTERISTICS
Criticism invidious--Gairloch people have a good character--Fidelity, courtesy, and hospitality--Sir G. S. Mackenzie's opinion--Sir Francis Mackenzie's tribute to his Gairloch people--Attachment to home--Caution and keenness in money matters--Anecdote--Captain Burt's charge of want of cleanliness not generally applicable now--Morality--Indolence--Always behind time--Clinging to old ways--Old Highland esprit dying out--Annual competition recommended 121
VI. LANGUAGE AND DRESS
Gaelic called Irish--Gairloch dialect--Not dying out--Knowledge of English increasing--Old people still unable to speak English--Gaelic phrases in English--Gaelic literature in Gairloch--Should Gaelic be discouraged?--Ancient dress in Gairloch--Belted plaid or truis--Separate form of the kilt--Antiquity of the kilt--Highland dress proscribed--Subterfuges--Discouraged homespun fabrics--Kilt common in Gairloch in early part of nineteenth century--Sir Francis Mackenzie on the kilt--Now fallen into disuse--Present dress of men--Gairloch hose--Dress of women--The mutch--Maiden's headdress--Dr Mackenzie on maiden's hair and on mutches 125
VII. WAYS AND MEANS
Sources of livelihood--Industry of women--Dwellings--Byres adjoining--No chimneys--Gradual improvement--Gardens rare--Fevers and consumption--Food--Absence of pigs--Whisky--Illicit distillation--Fuel--Torasgian--Cabar lar--Peat creel--Carts--Sledges before roads were made 132
VIII. AGRICULTURE AND STOCK
Little agriculture in ancient days--Black cattle--Blood taken from living cattle--The bowmen--Hill shielings miserable places--Introduction of sheep farming--Sheep farms forested--Sheep deteriorate pasture--Ancient breed of sheep--Present farms--Run-rig--Crofts established in Gairloch--Crofters' crops--The cas-chrom--Sir G. S. Mackenzie on imperfect agriculture--On indolence--The Highland husbandman--His negligence--Sir Francis Mackenzie on imperfect cultivation--On manures--On the cas-chrom--On lack of industry--On absence of gardens--Introduction of the potato 136
IX. FISHERIES
Gairloch fishermen and fish--Herring fisheries--Lobsters and crabs--Oysters--Gairloch cod fishery--Under Sir Alexander Mackenzie, 1721 to 1766--In 1792--Sir G. S. Mackenzie's account of it under Sir Hector--Lines and hooks formerly home-made--First foreign hooks in 1823--Cod fishery in 1884 and 1885--Salmon fishery--Bag-nets--Diminution in stock of salmon 143
X. POSTS AND ROADMAKING
Post-runners to Gairloch--Dr Mackenzie's account--Donald Charles--Roderick M'Lennan--William Cross--M'Leay--Iain Mor am Post--General Wade's road--Bridges in Gairloch--Road from Gairloch to Poolewe--The Dowager Lady Mackenzie's account of road-making--Destitution Committee contribute to road-making--Road to Fionn loch 147
XI. SUPERSTITIONS OF ISLE MAREE
Isle Maree conspicuous--The wishing-tree--Her Majesty's offering--St Maelrubha permitted sacrifices of bulls--Continued to 1678--Latterly associated with cure of insanity--Treatment of lunatics--Still continued--Dr Mitchell's description--Circular enclosure supposed to be Druidical--Graves of the prince and princess--The well--Description of the wishing-tree--Trees of Isle Maree--Probability of the legend of Isle Maree--Name of island derived from St Maelrubha--St Maelrubha worshipped 150
XII. SUPERSTITIONS OF ISLE MAREE--continued.
Druidical sacrifices engrafted on Christianity--Resort to Isle Maree for cure of lunacy probably ancient--Parallel superstitions--Bull sacrifice at Kirkcudbright--Sacrifices of bulls not confined to the saint's day--Descriptions of proceedings for cure of lunatics--MacCulloch's description--No form of words--Recent cases--St Maelrubha and St Ruffus identical--Mad dog dipped in the well--Sad consequences--Quotations as to Pagan practices engrafted on Christianity 153
XIII. SUPERSTITIONS GENERALLY
Highlanders' surroundings suggest superstition--Gradual diminution of it--Older superstitions--Loch Maree water cure--The Fox Point--Coins found--The Cathair mor and Sitheanan Dubha--Gairloch fairy tale--The Shiant Isles' fairy--Eilean Suainne--Fairies seen on Isle Ewe in 1883--Lights and music of fairies noticed at Mellon Charles--William M'Lean gets a bagpipe chanter from the fairies--The Gille Dubh of Loch a Druing--Superstitious fancies--The Loch of the Beast--Evidence of the appearance of the beast--Proceedings for its suppression--Rorie and the mermaid 158
XIV. WITCHCRAFT AND MAGIC
Rudha Chailleach--Witchcraft and magic still believed in--Jessie the cripple, a witch--Depriving milk of its fruit--Kenlochewe case in presbytery records--Kenneth Mackenzie, the maighstair sgoil, punishes the witch at Strath--His cows recover--Recent cases--The sian--Description of it--Duncan M'Rae--His song--Entrusted with a keg of gold for Prince Charlie--Hides the keg in the Fedan Mor--Renders it invisible by the sian--The wife of the Cibear Mor sees the keg--The cave at Meallan a Ghamhna--The cave and weapons concealed by the sian--Seen by several women recently--Another similar case on Loch Maree--Alastair Mor an t' Sealgair--Runs the blockade by means of the sian--His variations of the sian--Other examples of Alastair's and his father's powers--The wind made favourable by magic 163
XV. VISIONS AND SECOND-SIGHT
Distinction between visions and second-sight--Old Alastair's vision of Hector Roy and his bodyguard--A young man sees a ghost--Two men see a woman in a house--Spectre seen before a shoot--Two kinds of second-sight--Jessie the cripple--Ducked as a witch--Her vision of a shepherd, his dog and sheep, fulfilled--The smith's son sees a crowd on Poolewe bridge--His vision fulfilled--The great storm on Loch Ewe--Great sight at Mellon Udrigil--Fleet of ships and boats filled with red coats--Visions of soldiers in red uniforms near Inveran--These visions compared with similar sights elsewhere 169
XVI. BARDS AND PIPERS
Ancient bards an illustrious class--Ossian's poems--Office of bard or seannachie--Bards of recent date--Ceilidh--Antiquity of bagpipes--Office of piper in old days--In the present day--Love of pipe music in Gairloch--Some old Gairloch bards--Ruaridh Breac--The English bard--Duncan M'Rae--Roderick Campbell, piper and fiddler--The Piobaire Ban--List of living Gairloch pipers 173
XVII. HEREDITARY PIPERS OF THE GAIRLOCH FAMILY
The Mackays--Rorie Mackay, piper to John Roy Mackenzie--Alastair Breac, and his son and grandson--His brother Donald--John Mackay, the blind piper--Taught by the M'Crimmons--Piper to the two first baronets of Gairloch--His compositions--Anecdotes of his life with the M'Crimmons--His songs and poems--Angus Mackay--Piper to Sir Alexander, third baronet--Moladh Mairi--John Mackay, piper to Sir Hector--Emigrates to America--A splendid piper--His offspring 177
XVIII. WILLIAM MACKENZIE AND MALCOLM MACLEAN
William Mackenzie a catechist--His song to Balone's sister--His song lampooning a wedding party--His consequent dismissal--Malcolm Maclean a notorious bacchanalian--His beautiful daughter--His wife's resignation illustrated by an anecdote--Translation by Professor Blackie of his song to his daughter 180
XIX. WILLIAM ROSS, THE GAIRLOCH BARD
William Ross, a grandson of the "Blind piper"--His youth--His travels--Appointed schoolmaster of Gairloch--Dies young--Monument over his grave--Estimate of his poetry 183
XX. ALEXANDER CAMPBELL, BARD TO SIR HECTOR
Alastair Buidhe's ancestry and youth--Appointed ground-officer and bard to Sir Hector--Instructed to remove the roof from a defaulting tenant's house--His prudent artifice approved by Sir Hector--Dr Mackenzie's recollections of Alastair as bard--His bad health, and death--His character--His friendship with William Ross--His descendants--His poetry highly appreciated 185
XXI. ALEXANDER GRANT, THE GREAT BARD OF SLAGGAN
Sandy Grant's ancestry--His enormous stature and strength--His appearance, portrait, and poetry--Reputed to have second-sight--Anecdote--Sandy Grant discovers cheeses stolen in Loch Carron--His descendants 187
XXII. JOHN MACKENZIE OF THE "BEAUTIES."
John's ancestry and youth--His mechanical skill--An accident disables him--Collects Gaelic poems--Devotes himself to literary work--List of books he translated--Known as a poet and piper--Anecdote of his humour--Buys a ship and her cargo--Gives up the bargain--Monument to his memory 189
XXIII. LIVING GAIRLOCH BARDS
Alexander Mackenzie, of Oban--Duncan Mackenzie, the Kenlochewe bard--Short memoir--His poetry--His epithalamium on the marriage of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie--Translation of it by Professor Blackie--Alexander Cameron, the Tournaig bard--His song in praise of Tournaig--English translation by Mr W. C. Good--Alexander Bain--His elegy on the late Dr Kennedy--English translation 192
XXIV. THE POOLEWE ARTIST
Paucity of art in Gairloch--Finlay Mackinnon--His characteristics--His yearning for art as a young boy--Assisted by Mr Davis, R.A., and others--His watercolour sketches 200
XXV. JAMES MACKENZIE'S GAIRLOCH STORIES
Short Account of James Mackenzie--William Roy Mackenzie and the exciseman--Kenneth and John Mackenzie of Rona and the press-gang--John M'Gregor of Londubh escapes from the press-gang, but is killed by a fall over a rock--Murdo Mackenzie, or Murdo's son, marries Lord Breadalbane's daughter and takes possession of a lugger full of smuggled spirit--Anecdote of Sir Hector Mackenzie and M'Leod of Raasay's boat--Mackenzie of Kernsary and James Mackenzie's grandfather--The whale in Loch Ewe drowns three men--A story of Rob Donn--The Loch Broom herring fishery--The other Rob Roy Macgregor and the Dundonnell estates--Cases of drowning in Loch Maree--Hector Mackenzie, William Urquhart and his son, and Kenneth Mackenzie--A Kenlochewe man rolls overboard--Kenneth Mackenzie and Gregor Macgregor carried down by the Talladale river--John M'Ryrie--Kenneth Urquhart--Sandy Mackenzie--The Stornoway packet and the whale--Wreck of M'Callum's schooner at Melvaig--A sea captain buried in Isle Ewe--The loss of the "Glenelg"--Wreck of the "Helen Marianne" of Campbeltown--Wreck of the "Lord Molyneux" of Liverpool--John Macdonald, the drover of Loch Maree--The murder of Grant, the peddler, by M'Leod, who is at length hung--Death of the Shieldaig shoemaker and his companions at Lochinver 201
I. PHYSICAL FEATURES
Area and boundaries of Gairloch--Sea-board--Long valley bisecting the parish--Ranges and groups of mountains--Islands in the sea--Fresh-water lochs--Rivers--Woods--Caves--Waterfalls--The Steall a Mhuinidh--Victoria Falls--Letterewe waterfall--Kerry falls--Flowerdale waterfalls--Scenic beauties 219
II. CLIMATE AND WEATHER
Healthy climate of north-west Highlands--Changeable weather--Sir G. S. Mackenzie on the climate--Dr Mackenzie on the old-fashioned summers--Former abundance of nuts--Strawberries on 4th June, also cherries--Short summer nights--Aurora borealis--Rarity of intense frosts--Spring mist presages snow--A hard winter--Sunsets from the Gairloch Hotel--Cloudscapes--Colouring of landscapes 222
III. ANECDOTES AND NOTES
Birds, formerly rare in Gairloch, now plentiful, and vice versâ--Dr Mackenzie's remarks on this point--Eagles in Gairloch--Anecdote of Craig-Tollie eagle and roe deer--Confirmation from Martin's book--Also from story of Kirghiz eagles, &c.--Anecdote of Kenlochewe eagle and the cat--Subject of a well-known Gaelic riddle--Eagle at Talladale--Two-and-a-half brace of eagles killed in Gairloch before breakfast--Sea-gulls--How they were driven from Eilean Ruaridh--Sounds of various birds at Inveran--Insects--Midges and wasps--Her Majesty's remarks on them--Rhyme on midges--Preventive measures--Other insects--Animals in general--Vermin--Marten's fur--Wild cats--Wild cat in Loch Tollie island--Highland cattle--Goats--Ponies 227
IV. LOWER FORMS OF LIFE
Diffusion of life--Luminosity of footprints on boggy ground--Reptiles--Fresh-water fish--Shells--Molluscs--The spout fish--How to take it--Sea anemones--Love of flowers--Localities recommended to botanists--Grasses--Mosses--Lichens--List of a few--Seaweeds--Fungi--Conclusion 233
V. MAMMALS OF GAIRLOCH
List of Gairloch mammals, with notes--Notes on Arctic fox in Gairloch and elsewhere 236
VI. BIRDS OF GAIRLOCH
List of Gairloch birds, with notes 241
VII. FLOWERING PLANTS OF GAIRLOCH
List imperfect--A word to visitors--Destruction of plants by sheep--Bouquets of wildflowers--Seasons for them--Rarer plants--List of flowering plants 256
VIII. SHELLS OF GAIRLOCH, BY REV. JOHN M'MURTRIE, M.A
Paper by Rev. John M'Murtrie, M.A., on "Springtide at Gairloch, a Study of small Shells"--Appendix, with list of shells 265
IX. THE GEOLOGY OF LOCH MAREE AND NEIGHBOURHOOD, BY WILLIAM JOLLY, F.G.S., F.R.S.E
Long controversy--Attack by eminent geologists--Others enter the lists--Prospect of early peace--Conditions of the problem well exhibited round Loch Maree--Succession of rocks--Hebridean gneiss--Torridon red sandstone--Quartzite--Its annelid borings--Its fucoid remains--Limestone--The "Logan" rock--The eastern gneiss--The controversy--Other noteworthy geological phenomena--Faults--Glaciation--Denudation--Rock junctions--The valley of the hundred hills--Curious impressions on Torridon sandstone near Talladale--The Fionn and Dubh loch--The Trias at Loch Gruinard 271
CHAPTER X.--MINERALS OF GAIRLOCH, BY PROFESSOR W. IVISON MACADAM, F.C.S., F.I.C., M.M.S., &c., Edinburgh.
List of minerals and localities 289
I. GAIRLOCH OF THE PRESENT DAY
No town in Gairloch--List of townships or hamlets--Ministers and services--Free churches and ministers--Schools--School Board--Table of Schools, with average attendance--List of school teachers--Side schools--School rate--Obstacles to regular attendance--Annual inspections--Registrar of Births, Deaths, and Marriages--Pauperism--Poor-rates--Pauper lunatics--Medical officer--The county road--Private roads--Policemen--Justices of the Peace--Licensed houses--Postal arrangements--Telegraph--Carrier--Bank--Markets--Preventive service--Steamers--Rifle corps--Its three sections--Principal houses in Gairloch--Poolewe Public Hall 293
II. APPROACHES AND ROADS
Approach from Achnasheen--From Loch Carron--From Loch Torridon--From Gruinard--By steamer--By boat from Ullapool--On foot--Main road maintained by the county--Private roads--Loch Maree a highway 299
III. ACHNASHEEN TO KENLOCHEWE
Dingwall and Skye railway--The Gairloch mail-car--Natural terraces like railway embankments--Loch Rosque--Remains of ancient ironworks--The Clach an t' Shagart at Bad a Mhanaich--Luibmhor in Gairloch--View of Scuir Mhullin--Persistent inquirer--Hill resembling a profile--Glen Dochartie--View of Loch Maree--Trysting-place--More old ironworks--View of Beinn Eay--Kenlochewe--Hugh Miller on this name--Kenlochewe village and hotel--Culinellan churchyard--The Cnoc a Chrochadair--Ath nan ceann--Two routes to Gairloch 301
IV. KENLOCHEWE TO TALLADALE
Tagan farm--Glas Leitire woods--Ru Nohar--Umbrella-like firs--Her Majesty's description of the road--Glen Grudidh--Old fir trees--Eilean Grudidh--Wild stretch of road described by Her Majesty--Hamlet of Talladale--The Loch Maree Hotel--Accommodation--Angling--Visit of Her Majesty--Commemorative Gaelic inscription on a boulder--English translation 305
V. TALLADALE TO THE GAIRLOCH HOTEL
Road through woods--The Victoria Falls--Garavaig ironworks--Slatadale farm--Old road to west of Craig Tollie--View of the islands of Loch Maree--Feur loch--Loch Bad na Sgalaig--Kerry falls--Kerry bridge--Her Majesty's interview with Lews' people here--Kerrysdale House--Resort of fairies--Charleston--Flowerdale House--Port na heile--The Gairloch--Established church--The Leabaidh na Ba Bàine--Gairloch churchyard--Old ironworks--Monument to John Mackenzie of the "Beauties"--The Crasg--The Cnoc a Croiche--The Gairloch Hotel--Accommodation and arrangement--Sea-bathing--Boating--Angling--Fine view 308
VI. THE GAIRLOCH HOTEL TO POOLEWE
Achtercairn--Views of Strath and the hills of Skye--Deep gorge--Geikie on geology of a curious hill--The Shoe-stone--Funeral heaps--Lochan nan Airm--The Glen--Craig Bhadain an Aisc--Blar na Fala--Loch Tollie--Its crannog--Surrounding hills--Distant views--Old road--View of Loch Maree--Beinn Aridh Charr--Spidean Moirich--Croft Brae--Hamlet of Croft--Ceann a Chro, or Cruive End--The Still--The Hill of evil counsel--The Trossachs of Loch Maree--Poolewe village--The church--The inn--Pool House--Other houses--Londubh--The Inverewe burial-ground 312
VII. POOLEWE TO AULTBEA
The pool--Srondubh--Inverewe House and gardens--Description from the Times--Loch nan Dailthean--Tournaig--The Dowager Lady Mackenzie's residence--Description of the garden from the Times--Coile Aigeascaig--Mac Gille Riabhaich's cave--Bleeding living cattle--Tournaig farm--Loch Tournaig--Dunan--The road ascends--Views--Drumchork--Aultbea-- Townships--Houses--Anchorage--Aultbea inn 318
VIII. EXCURSIONS FROM KENLOCHEWE
Drives--Expedition to Loch Torridon--Cromasaig--Fe Leoid--Loch Clair--Maelrubha's seat--Carn Anthony--Coire Cheud Cnoc--Precipices of Liathgach--Her Majesty's remarks--Sguir Dubh--Lochan an Fheidh--Loch Torridon--Village--Mr Darroch and Torridon House--Ploc of Torridon--The heights of Kenlochewe--Glen Cruaidh Choillie--Glen na Muic--Excursions on foot by the path on the east side of Loch Maree--Excursions on Loch Maree 321
IX. EXCURSIONS FROM TALLADALE
Drives and walks--Expeditions on Loch Maree--The steamer--Boats 326
X. EXCURSIONS FROM GAIRLOCH
The south side of Gairloch--Shieldaig--Leac nan Saighead--Badachro--Loch Bad na h' Achlais--Port Henderson--Opinan--Cave--South Erradale--Ancient ironworks--Point--Views--North side of Gairloch--Achtercairn--Strath--Carn Dearg--Little Sand farm--Big Sand--Iron furnace--North Erradale--Wonderful cave--Peterburn--Altgreshan--Melvaig--The Leac--Rudha Reidh--Stac Buidhe--Other drives--Tour of Loch Maree--Boating expeditions--Walks--Geikie on geological features 327
XI. EXCURSIONS FROM POOLEWE
West side of Loch Ewe--Cliff House--Cuil an Scardain--Boor-- Views--Naast--Inverasdale--Brae--Midtown--Coast--Board school--Firemore--Telegraph to Stornoway--Meallan na Ghamhna--Caves--Loch a Druing woods--Cove--The village--The cave--Natural arch--Fionn Loch excursion--Craig an Fhithich--Inveran wood and farm--Inveran river--Loch Kernsary--Innis a Bhaird--Kernsary farm--Fionn Loch--Fine view--Other excursions by road--Walks--Craig Bhan 332
XII. EXCURSIONS FROM AULTBEA
To Mellon Charles--Cuilchonich--Bual na luib--Mellon Charles--Mellon Udrigil--Laide--The Loch of the Beast--Second Coast--Old church of Sand--Sandy beach--Curious rocks--First Coast and Second Coast--Mill Bay--Cadha Beag--Little Gruinard--Fisherfield--Meikle Gruinard river--Excursions by water 337
XIII. EXCURSION BY STEAMER ON LOCH MAREE
Road to north end of Loch Maree--Opinions of the scenery--Leading characteristics--Tollie pier--Fox Point--Clearness of water--Sweetheart's stepping-stones--Fhridh Dhorch--Ardlair--Cave of the king's son--The minister's stone--Clach a Mhail--Uamh a Mhail--Rudha Chailleach--The white horse--The Bull rock--The cave of gold--Gold mining in Scotland--Mountains--Letterewe--Limestone quarry--Waterfall--Furnace--Innis Ghlas--Coppachy--Regoilachy--Slioch--Cladh nan Sasunnach--Fasagh--Tagan--Ru Nohar--Undercliffs of Meall a Ghiubhais--Woods of Glas Leitire--View of Glen Grudidh--Aid na h' Eigheamh--Isle Maree--Whittier's verses--Eilean Suainne--Eilean Dubh na Sroine--Garbh Eilean--Eilean Ruaridh--The planted island--Wild fowl--Talladale--Slatadale--Doire--Craig Tollie--Bay of Corree--Rudha Aird an Anail--Cave--Heather burning 340
XIV. THE FIONN LOCH AND ITS DUBH LOCH, BY WILLIAM JOLLY
Name--Approaches--Loch Kernsary--View of Fionn Loch--Mountains described--Visits to the loch--Lochanan Beannoch--Beinn Aridh Charr--Black-throated divers--Beinn Lair--Narrow glen--Old hill fort--Craig an Dubh Loch--Pegmatite--Dubh Loch--Thunder shower--Islands--Birds--Marten cats 349
XV. LOCH GRUINARD, BY WILLIAM JOLLY
Loch Ewe--Mountain view--Aultbea--Moraines--Summer Isles--Distant views--Old Chapel--Caves--Modern Cave-dweller--Gruinard House--Gruinard river--Mountains of Loch na Sheallag 355
XVI. ANGLING IN SEA LOCHS
Several classes of anglers--Outfit recommended--Two usual modes of sea fishing--Trolling for lythe--Artificial sand-eels--Handline fishing--Scalps--Fishes captured--Conger eels--Large halibut--Large skate 359
XVII. ANGLING IN LOCH MAREE
Excessive fishing--Reserved water--Species of fish--Char--Salmon--Sea-trout--Bull-trout--Finnocks--Property in salmon and sea-trout--Large brown trout--Ferox not a separate species--Variations in trout--So-called ferox not worth eating--Gizzard trout 361
XVIII. ANGLING IN FRESH-WATER LOCHS
Permission required--Trout scarcer than formerly--Dr Mackenzie accounts for this--The tarry sheep--Fionn Loch--Angling deteriorated--Good day's angling--The Dubh loch--Three trout at a cast--Bait fishing for trout--Loch Kernsary--Char--Char and trout, and pink and white-fleshed trout, indistinguishable to the taste--Burn fishing--Best time for trout fishing--Eels--Pike--Their introduction described by Dr Mackenzie--Re-introduced in Sir Kenneth's time 363
XIX. SALMON ANGLING
Salmon rivers--The Ewe--Cruives--The old cruive used for crossing the river--Roderick Campbell and an American merchant drowned--The new cruive--Gradual diminution of stock of salmon--Length of the Ewe--Pools on the east side--Pools on the other side--Runs of salmon and grilse--Kelts--Bull-trout--Sea-trout--Large salmon--Best flies--Dr Mackenzie's anecdote of Sir Humphrey Davy--John Bright--Odd incidents--Damaged fly--Successful fishing after a friend--Hooking a fish after losing another--Was it a rise?--Fish taking when line slack--Kelt caught twice--Holding on for five hours--Angler compared to the evil one--Water-bailiffs--John Glas--Sandy Urquhart--His loquacity--Fishing on the Ewe--Tailing salmon--Spiked gloves--Bags of salmon now and formerly--Singular mode of fishing by Sir Hector--Charms of the Ewe--Other salmon rivers in Gairloch 366
XX. DEER FORESTS AND GROUSE SHOOTING
The red deer--Free to roam--Antiquity of--Formerly scarce--Meaning of "forested"--List of deer forests--Estimated yield and stock--Stag season--A "royal"--Best heads--Hinds--Deer-stalking--Great caution required--Staghounds not much used now--Quotation from John Taylor, the "Water-Poet"--Present system of letting deer forests--Colonel Inge in Gairloch--Misconceptions with regard to deer forests--Opinions of the Crofters Commission--Depopulation not due to deer forests--Deer forests not suitable for occupation by crofters--Loss of mutton and wool insignificant--Depredations by deer on crofters' crops easily remedied--Deterioration of pasture by deer not proved--Demoralization of gillies not due to forests--Summary of opinions--Substantial benefits conferred by deer forests--Afford employment to a greater extent than sheep farms--Recommendation by Commissioners--Grouse shooting--Grouse not abundant--Disease infrequent--Late birds--Mixed bags--Separate grouse shootings 372
LIST OF BOOKS AND MSS. QUOTED OR REFERRED TO 381
STATEMENT OF AUTHORITIES FOR TRADITIONS, &C., EMBODIED IN THIS BOOK 383
TABLES.
I. Mountains of Gairloch 387
II. Distances 387
III. Population of Gairloch 390
IV. Ministers of the parish of Gairloch 390
V. Lairds of Gairloch 391
APPENDICES.
A. Genealogical Account of the MacRas, by Rev. John Macrae, who died 1704 395
B. Tour in Scotland by Thomas Pennant in 1772 396
C. Old Statistical Account of Scotland, 1792 399
D. Dr MacCulloch's Highlands and Western Isles of Scotland, 1811 to 1821 400
E. New Statistical Account of Scotland, 1836 403
F. Records of the Presbytery of Dingwall 408
G. Records and Extracts relating to Sir George Hay and the Manufacture of Iron 412
H. Addenda on St Maelrubha, and Ecclesiastical History 415
Glossary of Gaelic Names and Words.
The pronunciation is given approximately in parentheses. In many cases no combination of letters pronounced in English fashion can accurately represent the Gaelic pronunciation.
The pronunciation of ch is almost the same in Gaelic as in German. Sometimes the ch is best rendered as an aspirate only, the c being treated as if silent.
The letter c, unless followed by h, is always pronounced in Gaelic like the English k, a letter not found in Gaelic.
The Gaelic pronunciation of the letters b, d, and g is soft, and they are often sounded more as if they were p, t, and k.
In Ross-shire Gaelic sr is pronounced as if it were str, and rt as if it were rst.
The consonant d before the vowels e and i, whether followed by another vowel or not, is pronounced as if it were j.
The consonant s before the vowels i or e is sounded as sh.
The consonant l has a liquid double sound, unlike anything in English; it may be approximated by lisping the vowel u before and the letter y after the ordinary sound of the letter l.
The letter h after the consonants d, f, g, t, and s, in Ross-shire Gaelic, renders those consonants silent; bh and mh are usually pronounced like v, a letter not found in the Gaelic alphabet. Sometimes adh seems to be pronounced very like ag.
The possessive case is frequently formed in Gaelic by the insertion of the letter h after the initial consonant, and of the letter i after the vowel in the first or second syllable.
The aspirate h is often inserted between the definite article and a noun beginning with a vowel. Sometimes the letter t is similarly inserted before a noun commencing with a consonant. These, and some other changes, are made for the sake of euphony.
The vowel sounds can only be defined with difficulty. The attempts made in this glossary are but imperfect. It may be stated that ach is generally pronounced och; ao and u, as oo; ea, as a in "bake"; a, e, and i, usually as in French; ei, sometimes as a in "bake," and sometimes as i in "bin"; and ai is sometimes almost like u in "dull," and sometimes like a in "tan."
Anyone desiring to pronounce a Gaelic name or word correctly, should ask a native to render it, and try to imitate him; even then, in some cases, it will be impossible to be exactly right.
A cheardach ruadh (ar charstock rooer), The red smithy. Ceardach, a smithy; ruadh, red.
A Mhaighdean (ar veytchen), The maiden. See Maighdean.
Achagarbh, properly spelt Achadhgarbh (ach a garrav), Rough field. Ach, a field; garbh, rough.
Achagarve. See Achagarbh.
Achdistall, or Achdiestal (achjestel), Field of Diestal. Ach, a field; Diestal, a Norse word, probably the name of a rock.
Achnasheen (achnasheen), Field of storms. Ach, or achadh, a field; sian (shee-on), means wind and rain combined, i.e., a rainstorm. Sian dubh (black storm) is so-called in contradistinction to a snowstorm, which is designated cur is cathadh. An old Kintail priest long ago prophesied that this country would be brought to nought by Sian dubh, and that the people would have to go away to islands at the other side of the world.
Achtercairn, properly Achadhacharn (achterkairn), Field of the cairn. Ach, or achadh, a field; carn, a heap of stones.
Aigeascaig (aigaskaik). Name of place, meaning unknown. Colonel Robertson says Aigeas is a corruption of aiguisg, by reason of the water. The termination aig signifies a small bay; it was originally Danish.
Aird (aird), a height, a promontory or headland.
Aird na h' eigheamh (art na heyhugh), eight of calling. Aird, a height; eigh, to call.
Airdheslaig (artishlak). Supposed to be a Norse name. Aird, a height; heslaig may be for h'aslaich, aslaich, to entreat; aslachadh, entreaty.
Alastair Breac (allaster brake), Alexander the spotted. Alastair, Alexander; breac, spotted, or more correctly pock-marked. See Breac.
Alastair Buidhe Mackay, properly MacAoidh (allaster boo-ie mackai), Yellow Alexander Mackay. MacAoidh is pronounced Macooie.
Alastair Buidhe MacIamhair (allaster boo-ie makeemver), Yellow-haired Alexander MacIver; pronounced MakEever.
Alastair Liath (allaster leear), Grey-headed Alexander. Liath, grey, grey-headed. It means light blue when not applied to a human being.
Alastair MacIain Mhic Earchair (allaster makeeanvic erraquhar), Alexander, son of John, son of Farquhar. Earchair is incorrectly written for Fhearchair, the possessive of Farquhar; Fhearchair is pronounced Erraquhar or Earchair.
Alastair Mor an t' Sealgair (allaster more ant shollager), Big Alexander the hunter. Sealgair, a hunter, a stalker, literally a sneaker.
Ali' Iain Ghlais (alian loss), Alexander [son] of Pale John. From Alie (short for Alastair), Alexander; Iain, John; and glas, pale or sallow. Glas means grey when not applied to human beings.
Alie Uistean (ally ooshtan), Alick Hugh. Alie, short for Alexander. See Uistean.
Allt a Choire Dhuibh Mhoir (arlta corrie oo-ie vore), The burn of the great black corrie. Allt, a burn; choire, possessive of coire, a corry; dhuibh, possessive of dubh, black; mhoir, possessive of mor, great.
Altgreshan, properly Alltgrisean (alt-grishan), Roan or grizzly burn. Allt, a burn; grisfhionn (grishan), grizzly.
Am port Leathach (am porsht layoch), The port at half [tide]. Leath is half.
An Amilt, or An Amhuilt (ann amvilt). Name of a place; means the stratagem.
An Fhridh dhorch (an ree dorroch), the dark forest. Fridh, forest; dorch, dark.
An Groban. See Groban.
An t' Eirthire Donn. See Eirthire Donn.
Angus. See Aonghas.
Aonghas (unnus), Angus, or Æneas, which last is nearer in sound to the Gaelic.
Applecross. English name as now used. Colonel Robertson says it is for the Gaelic Abercroisean, or Abhircroisean, from aber, mouth, or confluence of; croisean, of troubles; or perhaps croisean was the name of the little river.
Ardlair (ardlair), The mare's height or headland. Aird, a height; lair, a mare.
Ath nan ceann (arnankown), Ford of the heads. Ath, a ford; ceann, heads. Often written Anagown.
Aultbea, should be spelt Alltbeithe (arltbay), Burn of birches. Allt, a burn; beath, or beith, a birch.
Bac an Leth-choin (bark an lechun), Shelf of the crossbred dog. Leth-choin, a crossbred dog, a lurcher. Bac is a shelf or flat on the side or top of a hill; in this case the name is popularly applied to the whole hill.
Bac Dubh (bark dhoo), Black shelf. Bac, a shelf or flat place among rocks or on a hill; dubh, black.
Bad (bat), a clump, a grove.
Bad a Chrotha (badachro). Full Gaelic spelling of Badachro, which see.
Bad a mhanaich (bat er vannich), Grove of the monk. See Bad. Mhanaich, possessive of manach, a monk.
Bad an t' Sluig (bat ant slook), Grove of the miry puddle. Bad, a grove; sluig, possessive of slug, a miry puddle.
Badachro (badachro), Grove of the cruive. Bad, a grove; chro, possessive of cro, a cruive, a fank.
Badfearn, should be Badfearna (batfern), Alder grove. Fearn, the alder tree. See Bad. The place has still a clump of alders.
Badluachrach (bat loocharar), Rushy clump. Luachair, rushes.
Baile na h' eaglais (bally-na-herkless), Town of the church, or Kirkton. Baile, a town; eaglais, a church. Compare Ecclesia.
Ballymeon (bally-mey-on), properly spelt Baile-meadhon, pronounced exactly the same. Baile, a town; meadhon, middle. Anglicè, Middleton.
Bard Mor an t' Slaggan (bart more ant slaggan), The great or big bard of Slaggan, which see.
Bard Sasunnach (bart Sassenach), English bard. Sasunnach, English, i.e. not a Gaelic speaker.
Bathais Bheinn (boorsh ven), Forehead mountain (very descriptive). From Beinn, mountain, and bathais, forehead; or perhaps it should be called Baoisg Bheinn (boiskivin), the mountain of gleaming, because it catches the first rays of the rising sun. This is also true of this mountain.
Beag (bek), little. It seems to appear as bach in some English names.
Beallach Glasleathaid (baaloch glass laid), Pass of the gray slope. Beallach, a pass; glas, pale; leathaid, possessive of leathad, a slope.
Beallach nan Brog (baaloch nam progue), Pass of the shoes. Brog, a shoe.
Beallach a Chomhla (baaloch a korvla), Pass of the door. Comhladh, a door.
Beinn Alligin (bin allikin), Jewel mountain. Properly Ailleagan, a jewel, or darling, anything precious.
Beinn a Chaisgean (bin a harshkin), Mountain of casgean; which may be a corruption of caisg, Easter.
Beinn Aridh Charr (bin arry har), The mountain of the rough shieling. Beinn, a mountain; aridh, a shieling; charr, a corruption of garbh, rough.
Beinn a Chearcaill (bin a herkill). Mountain of the hoop. Cearcall, a hoop. Descriptive of bands or lines of stratification encircling this hill.
Beinn a Mhuinidh (bin ar voonie), Mountain of the "Pisvache."
Beinn an Eoin (bin-in-eeōn), The mountain of the bird. Beinn, a mountain; eoin, possessive of eun, a bird. The bird in this case is the ptarmigan.
Beinn Bheag (bin vek), Little mountain. Beag, little.
Beinn Bhreac (bin y vraick), Spotted mountain. Breac, spotted.
Beinn Damph, properly Beinn Damh (bin damff), Mountain of the stag. Damh, a stag.
Beinn Dearg (bin jarrak), Red mountain. Beinn; and Dearg, red.
Beinn Eighe (bin ay), File mountain. Eighe, a file. The topmost ridge is jagged or serrated like a file.
Beinn Lair (bin lar), Mountain of the mare. Lair, a mare.
Beinn Liathgach (bin learoch). This mountain should not be called Beinn Liathgach, but Liathgach, which see.
Beinn na h' Eaglais (binnaherkless), Mountain of the church. Beinn, mountain; eaglais, church.
Beinn nan Ramh (bin an rahv), Mountain of the oar. Ramh, an oar.
Beinn Slioch or Sleugach (bin sleoch). Should be Slioch without Beinn. See Slioch.
Beinn Tarsuinn (bin tarsing), Mountain across.
Beinn Tarsuinn Chaol (bin tarsing chool), Narrow Beinn Tarsuinn. Caol, narrow or slender.
Bhantighearna Ruadh (vancherna rooar), Red lady. Bhantighearna, literally she-lord.
Bho Iutharn, or Bho Iuthrna (vo ewern), From hell. Bho, from; Iuthrna, hell.
Bidean clann Raonaild (peetyan clan ruynuld), Clan Ranald's peak. Bidean, a peak.
Blar na Fala (blar ner falla), Plain of the blood. Blar, a plain or bog, or flat place; fala, possessive of fuil, blood.
Blar na Pairc (blar ner park), Battle of the park. Pairc, possessive of parc, a park or field.
Bonaid donn (boanat down), Brown bonnet. Bonaid, a bonnet, a cap; donn, brown.
Boor (bore). Either from buradh, a bursting forth of blood; or from a word containing the root boor, meaning "roaring," because stags used to roar here.
Bothie (bothy, othie pronounced as in frothy), a little hut or hovel. Both, a hut. Compare English booth. The ie is an old Gaelic diminutive, often written idh.
Braemore, properly Braighmor (bray more), Great summit or hill. Mor, great; braigh, summit.
Breac (brake), spotted, marked with smallpox (when applied to human beings), a trout.
Breacan an Fheilidh (brayken an aylie), the belted or kilted plaid. Breacan, a tartan plaid; fheilidh, possessive of feileadh, a kilt.
Bruachaig (brooachak). Perhaps from Bruach, and achadh, a field; bruach, a bank, border, edge, steep; aig, means a small bay in old Danish.
Buaile na luib (pool na loop), Fold of the bend. From buaile, a fold; and luib, a bend or loop.
Buidhe (boo-ie), yellow-haired, yellow.
Cabar Feidh (kapper fay), deer's antler. Cabar, antler, or a stick; feiah, possessive of fiagh, deer.
Cabar Lar (kapper law), Turf parer. Cabar, a stick; lar, a floor, the ground.
Cadha Beag (kaar pek), Little pass in the rock. Beag, little; cadha, a pass in a rock.
Cailleach a Mhuillear (kaillyoch a vuillyear), The miller's wife. Cailleach, an old woman; muillear, miller.
Cailleach Liath Rasaidh (kaillyoch leear raasa), Grey old woman of Raasay. Cailleach, an old woman; liath, grey (light blue when not applied to a human being).
Callum a Ghlinne (kallum a glinnie), Malcolm of the glen. Callum, Malcolm.
Carn a Ghlinne (karn a glinnie), Cairn of the glen. Carn, a cairn or heap of stones; ghlinne, possessive of gleann, a glen.
Carn Anthony (karn anthony), Cairn of Anthony. Carn, a heap of stones.
Carn Dearg (karn jarrak). Red cairn. Carn, a heap of stones. See Dearg.
Carn Liath (karn leear), Light blue cairn. Carn, a heap of stones; liath, light blue.
Cas chrom (kas-rhoum), foot plough; literally crooked foot, from cas, a foot; and crom, crooked.
Cathair mhor (kaar more). Big seat, i.e. Fairies' seat. See Kerrysdale.
Ceann a Chro (kayoun-a-chroe), End or head of the cruive. Ceann, end or head; cro, a cruive, or fank.
Ceann a chruinn (kayoun a chreinie), mast head, or tree head or end. Ceann, a head, end; cruinn, possessive of crann, a tree or mast.
Ceann an t' sail (kayoun an tarl), end or head of the salt water. Ceann, end or head; sail, salt water. Corrupted further south into Kintail.
Ceann loch iu (kayoun loch ew), head of Loch Ewe. Ceann, a head.
Ceardach ruadh (karstoch roo-er), Red smiddy. See A cheardach ruadh.
Ceilidh (kayley), social meetings. From ceilidh, to visit.
Ceistear crubach (kaister crupboch), lame catechist. Ceistear, a catechist; crubach, lame.
Cibear Mor (keeipber more), big shepherd. Cibear, a shepherd; mor, great or big.
Clach (klarch), a stone. Possessive, Cloiche. Compare clough, found in some English names.
Clach a Mhail (klarch ar varl), Stone of rent. Clach, a stone; Mal, rent, tribute.
Clach an t' Shagart (klarch an taggart), Stone of the priest. Clach, a stone; shagart, possessive of sagart, a priest.
Clach nam Brog (klarch nam progue), Shoe stone. Clach, a stone; brog, a shoe.
Clachan garbh (klachan garrav), Rough village. Clachan, a village; literally stones; supposed to have originally been a Druidical term. See Garbh.
Cladh nan Sasunnach (klug nan sarsenach), Burial-place of the English. Cladh, a burial-place; Sasunnach, English, Saxon, not a Gaelic speaker.
Claidheamh mor (klymore), a broadsword, a claymore. Claidheamh, a sword; mor, great, here broad.
Clais na leac (klarsh na lyck), Hollow of the flat stones or flags. Clais, a furrow, a hollow between ridges or hills; leac, a flag.
Claonadh (kluanar), slopes. Compare inclining.
Clann Eachainn (klan erchen), offspring of Hector. Clann, offspring or descendants. See Eachainn.
Claymore. See Claidheamh mor.
Cleireach (klearoch), literally clerk. Priests often called so from their scholarship. The Priest island off the Greenstone Point is called Cleireach in Gaelic. Compare Clericus.
Cliabh moine (kleea moanyer), peat creel. Cliabh, creel; moine, peats.
Cliff, or Clive (Gaelic Clu). See Meall na Cluibha.
Clu (kloo), a local name; now treated as synonymous with English cliff. See Meall na Cluibha.
Cnoc a chrochadair (kroka chrochater), Hangman's hill. Cnoc, a hill, a hillock; chrochadair, possessive of crochadair, a hangman.
Cnoc a croiche (krok a chroich), Gallows hill. Croich, a gallows.
Cnoc na mi-chomhairle (krok na mee ho-airlie), Hillock of evil counsel. Cnoc, a hillock; mi (like mis-), evil, comhairle, counsel. Mi is also a negative prefix like un-.
Coigeach (ko-yoch), probably the "fifth portion" [of a davach]. Coig, five.
Coille Aigeascaig (kul yaikaskaik); Wood of Aigeascaig. Coille, a wood; see Aigeascaig.
Coinneach (kuinyoch), Kenneth. The progenitor of the Mackenzies.
Coinneach Mac Sheumais (kuinyoch mak eearmis), Kenneth the son of James. Coinneach, Kenneth; Seumas, James.
Coinneachadh Beag (koonyochor bek), Little meeting-place. Coinneachadh, meeting-place; beag, little.
Coire an Easain (corrie an easan), Corrie of the little waterfall. Easan, a little waterfall.
Coire Cheud Cnoc (corrie hehud crok), Corrie of a hundred hillocks. Coire, a corrie; ceud, hundred; cnoc, a hillock.
Coire Cheud Creagh (corrie hehud krayar), Corrie of a hundred spoils. Coire, corrie; ceud, a hundred; creagh, spoils. Name erroneously given by some to the Corrie of a hundred hillocks. See last name.
Coire Dubh Mor (corrie dhoo more), Great black corrie (or dell).
Coire Mhic Cromail (corrie vic krommle), The corrie of the son of Cromail. Mhic, of the son of; Cromail, an old name, meaning unknown.
Coire nan Cuilean (corrie nan coollin), Corrie of the cubs. Cuilean, a cub, a pup.
Coppachy, properly Copachaidh (koppachie), Foam field. Cop, foam; achadh, a field.
Corcur (korker), red, crimson.
Cota gearr (koita gaerr), short coat. Cota, a coat; gearr, short.
Co-thional (ko-yearnal), gathering together. Comh, or co, fellowship (compare company); tional, gathering.
Cove. English name altered from cave. The Gaelic name of the place is really An Uamhaidh (nouahvie), or the place of caves, from uamh, a cave. But it is more properly called An Uamh Mhor, or the great cave, a name descriptive of the cave still used as a place of worship.
Cradh Gheadh (crargeear), Shieldrake. Geag, a goose.
Craig (kraik), a crag or rock; properly spelt creig, or creag.
Craig a Chait (kraig a hart), Rock of the cat. Chait, possessive of cat, which is the same in Gaelic as in English, but was originally applied only to the wild cat.
Craig an Dubh Loch (kraigan dhoo-loch), Rock of the black loch.
Craig an Fhithich (kraig an eech), Crag of the raven. Fhithich, possessive of fitheach, a raven.
Craig an Fhithich Mhor (kraig an eech vore), Big crag of the raven.
Craig an t' Shabhail (kraig an towl), Rock of the barn. Sabhal, a barn.
Craig Bhadain an Aisc (kraik vatn an ashk), Rock of the clumps or groves of burial. Badan, clumps or groves; aisc, obsolete word, meaning burial or interment, or preparation for burial.
Craig Bhan (kraig varn), White crag. Ban, white; and see Craig.
Craig Roy. Properly Craig Ruadh, which see.
Craig Ruadh (kraik roo-er), Red crag. See Craig and Ruadh.
Craig Thairbh (kraik-harve), Bull rock. Tarbh, a bull.
Craig Tollie (kraig tollie), properly Creag Thollie (kraig holly), Rock of Tollie. See Tollie.
Crannag (crannog). A crannog, or insulated fortress, usually constructed on piles in a loch; the same word as crannag, a pulpit.
Crasg (krask). Meaning uncertain, possibly something that lies across. Crasg is the top of a spade, or cross piece of a crutch. Crasgach is something that goes contrary.
Creagan an Inver (kraigan an innyr), Little rock of the mouth of the river. Inver, mouth of a river.
Cromasaig, properly spelt Crom Fhasadh (krommasak), Crooked hollow. Crom, crooked; fhasadh, possessive of fasadh, a hollow.
Crubach (kruboch), lame of a leg. Compare cripple.
Cruitear, or Cruitire (kroo-iter), a musician, a harper.
Cuairtear nan Gleann (kooairter nan gleyoun), Pilgrim of the glens. Cuairtear, a pilgrim; gleann, glens.
Cu-dubh (koo dhoo), black dog. Cu, a dog.
Cuil an Scardain (kool an scarten), Corner of the screes. Cuil, a corner, a nook; sgardan, screes. The name is very descriptive.
Cuilchonich (kulhoanie), Mossy corner. Coinneach, green moss; cuil, a corner.
Culinellan, properly Cul an eilean (koolineylen), Back of the island. Cul, back of; eilean, an island.
Cumha Thighearna Ghearrloch (koovtcheerna yairloch), Lament of or for the laird of Gairloch. Cumha, lament. See Tighearna.
Dal Cruaidh (dal crewie), hard field or flat. Dal, a flat field; cruaidh, hard.
Darach (darroch), an oak.
Dearg (jarrak), red, like a rose.
Diabaig (teapik). Norse name, meaning unknown; possibly connected with Dia, God; aig, a small bay, so that it may mean the small bay of God. Perhaps this has reference to religious rites imported from the neighbouring monastery of Applecross. Diabaig is spelt Typack on the map of 1662.
Doire (derry), a grove.
Domhnull Dubh (donnullul dhoo), Black Donald. Domhnull, Donald; dubh, black.
Domhnull Gorm (donnullul gorrum), Blue Donald. Gorm, blue.
Domhnull Greannach (donnullul gruonnoch), Sour or savage-looking Donald. Greannach also means irascible.
Domhnull M'Eaine Roy Vic Choinnich, should be Domhnull Mac Iain Ruadh Mhic Choinnich (donald mak eean ruar vick kuinyoch), Donald son of John Roy (red John) son of Kenneth. Mac, son of; Mhic (or Vic), possessive of Mac.
Domhnull Mor (donnullul more), Big Donald. Domhnull, Donald; mor, big.
Domhnull Odhar MacIain Leith (donnullul our mak yan lay), Sallow or dun Donald son of Iain Liath or grey-haired John. Odhar also means drab. Leith, possessive of Liath, grey.
Donald. See Domhnull Dubh, &c. Donald is often written in these pages instead of its Gaelic spelling.
Donn (down), brown, bay, or sable. Compare dun.
Donnachadh Mor na Tuaighe (donnochar mor na tew-ay), Big Duncan of the axe. Donnachadh, Duncan; mor, big; tuagh, an axe.
Donnachadh na Fadach (dunochar na fardoch), Duncan Fadach. Donnachadh, Duncan; Fadach, name of the farm he had in Kintail before he came to Inveran.
Druim a Chait (dream a-hart), Ridge of the cat. Druim, a ridge; chait, possessive of cat.
Druim Carn Neill (dream karneyal), Ridge of the cairn of Neil. Druim, or droim, a ridge or keel.
Drumchork, properly Druim a choirc (drum-a-hawk), Ridge of corn, or oats. Druim, a ridge; coirce, oats, corn.
Dubh (dhoo), black.
Dubh Loch (dhoo-loch), Black loch.
Dun (doon), a castle; Dunan (doonan), a small castle.
Dun Naast (doonarst), Castle of Naast. See Naast.
Eachainn (erchen), Hector. Hector is considered the English equivalent, though it is not a translation of this Gaelic name.
Eachainn Geal (erchen gayal), White Hector. See Eachainn and Geal.
Eachainn Ruadh (erchen roo-er), Hector Roy. Hector is considered the English equivalent for Eachainn; and see Ruadh.
Eilean (eylan), an island, isle.
Eileanach (eylanoch), Island of the field. Eilean, isle; ach, or achadh, or achaidh, a field. Perhaps it would be more accurately translated The place of islands.
Eileandonain (eylan donnan), Island Donain. Donain, name of a saint, probably short for Donnachadh, or Duncan.
Eilean a Mhor Righ (eylan a vor ree), Island of the great king. An erroneous suggestion of the origin of the name Maree.
Eilean Dubh na Sroine (eylan dhoo na stronyer), Black island of the nose or promontory. Dubh, black; sron (stron), a nose or promontory.
Eilean Grudidh (eylan gruydgie), Island Grudie. See Eilean and Grudidh.
Eilean Horisdale (eylan horrisdel), properly Eilean Thorisdal, the island of Thorsdale, a Norse name, which see.
Eilean Maree (eylan maree), Isle Maree. See _St Maelrubha_.
Eilean na h' Iolaire (eylan nar hewlar-yer), Island of the eagle. Iolaire, an eagle.
Eilean Ruaridh Beag (eylan rooarie vek), Little island of Rorie or Roderick. Beag, little.
Eilean Ruaridh Mor (eylan ruorie mor), Big island of Rorie. Mor, big.
Eilean Suainne (eylan soo-in), Everlasting isle. Suainne, everlasting.
Eirthire Donn (erriyer down), Brown shore. Eirthira, shore; donn, brown.
Erradale (erradale). Norse; probably from earr, a boundary, the edge of.
Ewan McGabhar, properly Eoghan Mac Gabhar (ewen mak gower), Ewan son of the goat. Gabhar, a she-goat.
Ewe (ew). May be a corruption from uisge (usque), water. Compare similar Welsh root gwy, water, as in Wye.
Faidhir Mor (fire more), Great market. Faidhir, a fair or market; mor, great or big.
Failte Uilleam Dhuibh (falt yllyam oo-ey), Black William's salute. Failte, a salute; Uilleam, William; dhuibh, possessive of dubh, black.
Fannich, properly Fanaich (fannich). Meaning unknown.
Faoileag (fewlak), a sea-gull, name for a dog.
Farquhar (properly Fearchar) Buidhe (farkar boo-ie), Yellow-haired Farquhar. See Buidhe.
Fasagh (fassoch). From Fasadh (pronounced fassoch), meaning a hollow.
Fe Leoid, properly Feith Leoid (fay lee-oade), The bog of Leod (Loud). Feith, a bog; Leoid, possessive of Leod, a Norse Christian name.
Feachaisgean, properly Feith Chaisgean (fay harshkin), Bog of Casgean. See Beinn a Chaisgean.
Feadag-chuirn (fettak hee-oorn), Cairn plover. Gaelic name of the dotteril. Feadag, a plover; chuirn, possessive of carn, a cairn.
Fear, Feur, Feir, or Fiar loch (fear loch), sedgy loch. Feur, possessive feoir (feyoar), sedge, reedy grass.
Fear Shieldaig (fear shieldak), The goodman of Shieldaig. Fear means a man, a goodman.
Fedan Mor (fettan more), Big gullie. Fead (fet), a whistle; feadan, a little whistle or whistling thing (applied to a gully because the wind whistles through it). Feadag, the feminine diminutive of fead, is the name given to the golden plover on account of its piping.
Feileadh-beag (faylabek), philabeg, or kilt; literally little kilt, i.e. the kilt made up separately as distinguished from the Breacan an Fheilidh, the belted or kilted plaid.
Feill Iudha (fail you-her), Ewe market. Feill, a market; Iudha, possessive of Iu, Ewe.
Feir loch. See Fear loch.
Feith an Leothaid. Same as Fe-Leoid, which see. This is the more correct spelling.
Feith Mhic Iain Dhuibh (fay vik an ooie), The bog of Black John's son. Feith, a bog. See Mac Iain Dhuibh.
Feithean Mor, properly Na feithean mor (fain more), The great morasses. Feith (pl. feithean), a morass, a bog.
Feur loch. See Fear loch.
Fiaclachan (feearclochon), little toothed things. Diminutive of fiaclach, toothed or jagged, i.e. the little jagged rock; very descriptive.
Fiar loch. See Fear loch.
Fionn Loch (fee-un-loch), Fingal's loch, or The white loch. It is called Loch Finn on the map of 1662. Fionn means white, pale, or wan. It is said the Fingalians were called the white men in contradistinction to the Dugals or black men.
Fionnla Dubh MacGillechriosd (feeounla dhoo mak gillie chree-est), Black Finlay, son of the servant of Christ. See MacGillechriosd.
Fionnla Dubh na Saighead (feeounla dhoo na side), Black Finlay of the arrow. Saighead, an arrow.
Fionnla Liath (feeounla leear), Grey Finlay. Liath, grey.
Firemore. See Faidhir mor.
Foura (foora), an island at the mouth of Loch Ewe. The name includes the Norwegian suffix "a," meaning an island. Fuar (four) is Gaelic for cold.
Fraoch-eilean (frooch-eylan), Heather isle. Fraoch, heather.
Fuirneis (furniss), Furnace. This name was most likely originated here by iron-workers from Furness in Lancashire. Furness, according to Rev. Isaac Taylor, may be Fireness, the "fire isle," or "Fore-ness." Ness is Norse for a nose or headland.
Gael (gale), properly Gaidheal (gai-al), a Highlander, a Gael.
Gaelic (gallik), properly Gaidhealach (gai-alloch), Highland.
Gairloch (garloch), Short loch. Originally, and more correctly, spelt Gearrloch or Gerloch. Gearr, short. It is always spelt Gearrloch in Gaelic.
Garadh Iaruinn (gaarogh eerun), Iron dyke. Garradh, a dyke, a fence wall; iaruinn, iron.
Garavaig, properly Garbhaig (garavaik), name of a small river or burn. The termination "aig" is said to be old Danish, and means a small bay, but the prefix is probably from garbh, rough.
Garbh (garav, or garve), rough.
Garbh Choire (garav chorrie), Rough corrie.
Garbh eilean (garaveylan), Rough island. Garbh, rough.
Geal (gayal), white, bright.
Gille (gillie), a lad, a young man, a gillie, a servant.
Gille Buidhe (gillie boo-ie), Yellow, or yellow-haired gillie. See Gille.
Gille Cailean Mor (gilly callain more), The lad big Colin. See separate words.
Gille Dubh (gillie dhoo), Black, or black-haired lad.
Gille Riabhach (gillie ree-oach), Brindled lad. Riabhach, brindled.
Gillean (gillyon), lads. Plural of Gille, which see.
Gillean an t' Sealgair (gillyon ant shallager), the hunter's lads. Gillean, lads, or young men; sealgair, a hunter.
Gillespic (gill-yespik), servant of the bishop. Gille, servant; easbuig (espik), bishop. Compare Episcopus.
Glac Mhic Iain Dhuibh (glark vik an oo-ie), Hollow or dell of the son of Black John. Glac, a hollow or dell; Mhic, possessive of Mac, the son of; dhuibh, possessive of dubh, black.
Glac na Sguithar (glark nar skither), Hollow of Sguithar. An old name; meaning now lost.
Glas (glosh), grey. When applied to a man it means that he is pale or sallow, never grey-haired.
Glas eilean (glosh-eylan), Grey island. Glas, grey; eilean, an island.
Glas Leitire (glosh laytcher), Grey slope. See Glas and Leitir.
Glen, properly Gleann (glen or gloun), a valley, a dale.
Glen a Bianasdail (gloun ar beeanarstle), Glen of skin field or dale, or thal. Bian, a wild animal's skin.
Glen Cruaidh Choillie (glen or gloun cruchollie). May perhaps be the hardwood glen. Cruid, hard; coille, wood.
Glen Dochartie, properly Gleann Dochartidh (gloun dochartie). Dochart, or Dochartie, is believed to have been the name of a man.
Glen na Muic (gloun na mook). Muic, possessive of muc, a pig.
Gobha dubh an uisge (gow dhoo an uisk), Blacksmith of the water. Gobha, a smith; dubh, black; uisge, water.
Gorm (gorrum), blue.
Groban (groben). Probably a grooved rock, from grobadh, to groove.
Grudidh, more correctly Gruididh (gruydyie). Possibly from gruid, dregs; because the dregs and sediment of several burns drain into the Grudidh river.
Gruinard, in Gaelic Gruinaird (grinyard). Meaning unknown; may be from grian, the sun, and aird, a height. It used to be sometimes spelt Greinord; may be Norse.
Hector Roy. English rendering of Eachainn Ruadh, which see. No Gaelic word begins with H.
Heglis Gherloch, for Eaglais Ghearrloch (erkless yairloch), Church of Gairloch. Eaglais, a church.
Heglis Loch Ew, for Eaglais Loch Iu (erkless loch ew), Church of Loch Ewe.
Horisdale. See Eilean Horisdale.
Iain Buidhe (eean boo-ie), Yellow, or yellow-haired John. Iain, John. See Buidhe.
Iain Buidhe Taillear (eean boo-ie tyler), Yellow-haired John the tailor. Taillear, a tailor.
Iain Caol (eean cool), Slender John. Caol, slender.
Iain Dall (eean toul), Blind John. Dall, blind.
Iain Dubh Mac Ruaridh (eean dhoo mak rooarie), Black John, son of Rorie or Roderick. See separate words.
Iain Geal Donn (eean gel town), Whitey-brown John. Geal, white; Donn, brown.
Iain Gearr (eean garr), Short John. Gearr, short.
Iain Gearr Mac Mhurchaidh Mhic Iain (eean garr mak muroochie vic yan), Short John, son of Murdo, son of John.
Iain Glassich (eean glassoch), John of [Strath] Glass.
Iain Liath (eean leear), Grey John. Liath, grey.
Iain MacAllan Mhic Ruaridh (eean mak allan vik rooarie), John, son of Allan, son of Rorie. See separate words.
Iain Mac Coinnich Mhic Eachainn (eean mak kunyich vik erchen), John, son of Kenneth, son of Hector.
Iain Mac Eachainn Chaoil (eean mak erchen chooil), John, son of slender Hector. Chaoil, possessive of caol, slender.
Iain Mac Ghille Challum (eean mak illie challum), John, son of the lad Malcolm. See Mac Ghille Challum.
Iain Mac Iain Uidhir (eean mak an eer), John, the son of dun John. Uidhir is the possessive of odhar, dun.
Iain Mor am Post (eean more am post, pronounced like cost), Big John the post.
Iain Odhar Mac Iain Leith (eean our mak an lay), Dun John, son of Grey John. Odhar, dun; liath, grey.
Iain Ruadh (eean ruor, or ruag), John Roy, or Red John.
Innis a Bhaird (ish y vard), Oasis (or "clearing") of the bard. Innis, an island, or green oasis in a brown heathery region; bhaird, possessive of bard.
Innis Ghlas (inch gloss), The grey oasis. See _Innis a Bhaird_. Glas, grey.
Inveran, in Gaelic Inbhiran (in youren). Inbhiran is the diminutive of Inbhir (inver), an estuary, or mouth of. Inveran therefore means the little estuary. It takes this name from the small estuary formed where the little river from Kernsary enters Loch Maree.
Inverasdale, should be spelt Inbhirasdal (in-ur-astle), Mouth of the river Asdaile. Called Ashfidill, Aspedell, or Absdill in old documents.
Inverewe, Anglicé for Inbhiriu (in yer ew), The mouth of the Ewe. Inver (Gallice Inbhir), mouth of a river.
Judha. See Feill Iudha. There is no word beginning with J in Gaelic.
Kenlochewe (kinloch ew). See Ceann loch iu. The letter k does not occur in true Gaelic.
Kenneth. English form of Coinneach, which see.
Kernsary, spelt in Gaelic Cearnsair. A corruption, probably from carn, a cairn; aridh, a shieling.
Kerry, properly spelt Cearridh. Meaning unknown; may be connected with cearr, left, or wrong.
Kerrysdale. A modern English name; in Gaelic it is called Cathair Bheag, or the little seat or green knoll on which the fairies used to sit. Compare similar word in Welsh, as in Cader Idris. Bheag is possessive of beag, little.
Kintail. See Ceann an t' sail.
Laide (laide), a slope. From leathad (pronounced laid), a slope. The place is called in Gaelic _Leathad Udrigil_, or The slope of Udrigil.
Lasan (larsan), a slight passion, wrath, anger.
Leabaidh na Ba Bàine (lyeppy na papann), Bed of the white cow. Leabaidh, a bed; ba, possessive of bo, a cow; bàine, possessive of ban, white.
Leabhar na Feinne (leeoar na fainyie), Book of the Fingalians.
Leac nan Saighead (lake nen side), Flag or flat rock of the arrow. Leac, a flat rock, a flag; saighead, an arrow.
Leacaidh (lyechy), Place of flags, or flat rocks.
Leitir (laychter, letter), slope on a hill side, declivity.
Leth chreag (laychrig), Half rock. Leth, half; chreag, possessive of creag, a rock. This name is applied to several rocky hills in Gairloch; it seems to imply that one-half of the rock has fallen away.
Letterewe (letter ew), Slope of Ewe. See Leitir. This name is properly Leitir Iu.
Leum an Doill (layum an toul), Blind man's leap.
Lews (looze). From Leogheas (leoas), i.e., the lands of Leod, the progenitor of the MacLeods of the Lews.
Liathgach (leeroch), The light-blue mountain. Liath, light blue. This name should not have Beinn before it.
Loch (loch), a lake, an arm of the sea. Lochan, a small lake, a tarn.
Loch a Bhaid Luachraich (loch a vat loocharar), Loch of the clump of rushes. Bad, a clump; luachair, rushes.
Loch a Bheallaich (loch a veealoch), Loch of the pass. Beallach, a pass.
Loch a Chroisg (loch ach roshk). Anglicé Loch Rosque. Chroisg, possessive of Crosg, name of a place. Meaning unknown; possibly connected with Crasg, which see. Another suggestion is that Crosg may mean the Cross, and that the name was given by ecclesiastics who unquestionably lived here.
Loch a Druing (loch a tring), Loch of Druing. Druing is probably a Norse word. It occurs as Druingag in Tobar Druingag, The well of Druingag, which is at the south end of Loch a Druing.
Loch an Iasgair (loch an ee-esker), Loch of the fisherman. Iasgair, a fisherman; but in this case it refers to the nesting here of the osprey or fishing eagle.
Loch Bad na Sgalaig (loch bat na skallak), Loch of the servant's grove. Bad, a grove (or clump); sgalag, a servant.
Loch Bad na h' Achlais (loch pat 'n achlass), Loch of the grove of the hollow. Achlais, a hollow, the armpit.
Loch Bharanaichd (loch varranocht), Loch of the barony. Baranachd, a barony.
Loch Broom (loch broom). An English imitation of the Gaelic name, which is Loch Bhraoin (loch vruin). Braon means a light shower, drops of rain, drizzle.
Loch Clair, properly Clar (loch clar). Means anything flat, as the head of a barrel, leaf of a table, the front or plain piece of a kilt. The stone tables of the law are called clar in the Gaelic bible.
Loch Coulin (loch koalin). Coulin (or Connlin) is from Connlach, a Fingalian hero, who was buried on a promontory in the loch. The site of his grave is still pointed out.
Loch Fada (loch fatter), Long loch. Fada, long.
Loch Fear, Feur, Feir, or Fiar. See Fear loch.
Loch Gharbhaig (loch garravaik), Loch of the Garavaig, which see.
Loch Maree. See St Maelrubha.
Loch Mhic 'ille Rhiabhaich (loch vik illie reeoach), Loch of MacGille Riabhach, whom see.
Loch na Beiste (loch na peyest), Loch of the beast. Beist, a beast, a brute.
Loch na h' Oidhche (loch na hayich), Loch of night. Oidhche, night.
Loch nan Dailthean (loch nan dullann), Loch of the meadows. Dail, a field, a meadow.
Loch Rosque. See Loch a Chroisg.
Loch Torr na h' Eiginn (loch torr na haykin), Loch of the mound of violence. Torr, a mound; eiginn, violence.
Lochan a' Neigh. Should be Lochan an Fheidh, which see.
Lochan an Fheidh (lochan a neay), Loch of the deer. Fheidh, possessive of fiadh, deer.
Lochan Cul na Cathrach (lochan cool na karroch), Tarn of [or at] the back of the fairies' seat. Cul, back of; cathrach, possessive of cathair, a seat, a word usually applied to the fairies' seats.
Lochan nan Airm (lochan nan arram), Loch of the arms. Airm, possessive of aram (or armachd), arms.
Lochan nan Breac, or Lochan nan Breac Adhair (lochanan brake aar), Lochan of the trout from the sky. Adhar, the sky. When trout are found in a loch without inlet or outlet, they are supposed to have fallen from the sky.
Lochend (Dog Gaelic), End of the loch.
Londubh (lonedhoo), Black bog. Lon, a bog; dubh, black.
Longa (longer). Norse name; the termination a is an old Norse suffix meaning an isle. Long may be Norse equivalent to the English long, or it may possibly be the Gaelic long, a ship. In old maps it is called Lunga.
Lonmor (lone more), Big bog. Lon (lone), a bog; mor, big.
Luibmhor (loopmore), Great bend [or loop]. Luib, a bend.
Lungard (lungard). An old name; meaning unknown.
Mac (mak), Son of. Possessive mhic (vik), of the son of.
Mac a Ghille Riabhaich (mak illie ree-oach), Son of Gille Riabhach. See Gille Riabhach.
Mac Callum (makallum), Son of Malcolm.
Mac Coinnich (mak kunnich), Son of Kenneth. Mac, son of; Coinnich, possessive of Coinneach, which see.
Mac Ghille Challum (mak illie Challum), The son of the lad Malcolm. Ghille, possessive of Gille; Challum, possessive of Callum, Malcolm.
Mac Gilleandreis (mak gilloundris), Son of the servant of [St] Andrew. Gille, a servant; Aindrea, or Andreis, Andrew.
Mac Gillechriosd (mak gillie chree-est), Son of the servant of Christ. Chriosd, Christ. See Gille.
Mac Iain Dhuibh (mak an ooie), Son of Black John. Mac, son of; dhuibh, possessive of dubh, black.
MacLean (mak laine). In Gaelic this name is Mac'ill'ean, possibly for Mac Ghille Iain, meaning the son of the servant of John, or St John.
MacLennan (maklennan). In Gaelic the name is _Mac a Leinnan_, from leine, a shirt, referring to the first MacLennan having been the armour bearer who carried his "shirt" of mail for Mackenzie, lord of Kintail.
Mac Leod (makloud), the Son of Leod, progenitor of all the MacLeods.
Mac Mhic Cordaigh (mak vik orday), Son of the son of Cordaigh.
Mac Olamh Mhor (mak olar vor), Son of Olaf the Great. Olaf, a Norse name.
Macdonald, The son of Donald. It is not used in this form in Gaelic. The proper Gaelic equivalent is Domhnullach (donnulloch); it also means, the son of Donald. Mac Dhomhnuill is, however, frequently used.
MacRae (mak ray), Son of fortune. Mac, son of; rath, fortune.
Maighdean (maidchen), Maiden.
Maighstir Sgoil (maishter skol), Schoolmaster. Maighstir, a master; sgoil, a school.
Mali chruinn donn (mallie cruntown), Round brown Molly. Mali, Molly; cruinn, round; donn, brown.
Maolmuire (melmur), Tonsured one of Mary. Maol, a cropped head; muire, the virgin [Mary].
Marbhrann (marvran), an elegy. Marbh, dead; rann, verse.
McKenzie or Mackenzie. Corrupted from Mac Coinnich, which see.
Meall (meoul), a hill; literally a lump, usually applied to a lump of a hill. Meallan, a little hill.
Meall a Deas, (mella teyess), Hill of the south. Deas, south.
Meall a Ghuibhais (meyoul a huish), Hill of the fir. Guibhas, a fir.
Meall an Doire (meyoul an derry), Hill of the grove.
Meall Aridh Mhic Craidh (meyoul arry vik creear), Hill of the shieling of Criadh. Aridh, a shieling; Criadh, name of a man, meaning unknown.
Meall Aundrairidh (meyoul aurndrarey). Possibly meant for hill of Andrew, or of Andrew's shieling; if the latter, the termination would be from aridh, a shieling.
Meall Lochan a Chleirich (meyoul lochan a chlearich), Hill of the loch of the priest. Cleireach, a clerk. The priests were sometimes called cleireach, from their scholarship.
Meall na Cluibha (meyoul na clua), Hill of Clu (Anglicè Cliff hill). Clu may be connected with cluain, good pastures.
Meall na Glaice Daraich (meyoul na glarker darroch), Hill of the oak dell. Glac, a dell; darach, oak.
Meall nam Meallan (meyoul namellan), Hill of the hills. Meallan, plural of Meall, hills.
Meall Mheannidh, or Meadhonach, more correctly the latter (meyoul vahanny, or meyharnoch), The middle hill. Meall, hill; meadhonach, intermediate.
Meallan Chuaich (mellan chuaich), Little hill of the cup, or quaich. Compare quaff.
Meallan na Ghamhna (mellan a gowna), Stirk hill. Meallan, a little hill, gamhainn, a stirk.
Meallan Thearlaich (mellan harelich), Little hill of Charles. Tearlach, Charles; meallan, diminutive of meall. Anglicè, Mellon Charles.
Mellon Charles. See Meallan Thearlaich.
Mellon Udrigil (mellon oodrigil), Hill of Udrigil, which see.
Melvaig (melvik). Probably Norse; or may be from meal and beag, making Mealbheag (meyoul vek), the little hill. In Gaelic it is spelt Mealabhaig, which favours the Norse origin. Aig, old Danish for a little bay. Melvaig used to be spelt Malefage, Mailfog, Melvag.
Midton, for Middletown. An English word. See Ballymeon.
Mioll. Corruption of Meall.
Moladh Mairi (molloch marrie), Praise of Mary. Moladh, praise; Mairi, Mary.
Mor (more, or mohr), great, or big.
Mor Ban (moore barn), Fair Sarah. Mor, Sarah; ban, white, fair.
Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair (mulloch corrie vik erraquhar), Summit of the corrie of Farquhar's son. Mulloch, summit; coire, corrie; Mhic, of the son of; Fhearchair, possessive of Farquhar.
Murchadh Mac Mhurchaidh (muroochuch mak muroochie), Murdo, son of Murdo. Murchadh, Murdo; possessive Murchaidh.
Murchadh Riabhach na cuirce (muroochuch reeoach na kurke), Brindled Murdo of the bowieknife. Murchadh, Murdo; riabhach, brindled; cuirce, possessive of corc, a knife like a bowieknife (a knife that does not shut).
Murdo Mc Conill varchue vic Conill vic Allister. Old (almost phonetic) way of writing the Gaelic for "Murdo the son of Donald Murdo, the son of Donald, the son of Alastair." Conill seems to represent Dhomhnuill (the initial "c" belongs to the preceding word), and varchue is for Mhurchaidh, the possessive cases respectively of Domhnuill and Murchadh. Vic, of course, is for Mhic, of the son of.
Naast, or Naust (narst). A Norse word. Fäste is Norse for a fortress; its Gaelic form with the article would be Näste. There is here a knowe by the sea called Dun Naast, apparently including the Gaelic Dun, a castle.
Ob Choir' I (ope corree), Bay of the island of the corrie, or Island Corrie Bay. Ob, a bay; choire, possessive of coire, a corrie; i, old Gaelic for an island. Iona is still called "I" in Gaelic.
Oban (open, or oben), a little bay.
Og (ogue, pronounced as in rogue), young.
Oighrig (eyrig). Woman's name; Euphemia is considered to be the English equivalent.
Openham. Corrupted from Opinan, which see.
Opinan (opinen), Little bays. Corrupted from Obanan, plural of Oban, which see.
Oran na Feannaige (oran na feounak), Song of the hoodie crow. Oran, song; feannag, a hoodie crow, i.e. the Royston or grey crow.
Ormiscaig (ormscaik). A Norse name; its termination means a small bay. The word may include Ormr, Norse for a serpent. (See Rev. Isaac Taylor on Orme's Head.)
Padruig Caogach (partrik kuogoch), Skew-eyed Peter. Caogach, skew-eyed; Padruig, Peter, or Patrick.
Philabeg. See Feileadh Beag. Philabeg is a lowland form of the name of the kilt.
Piobaire Ban (peepier ban), The fair piper. Piobaire, a piper; ban, fair, white.
Piobaire Dall (peepi-er toul), Blind piper. Piobaire, a piper; dall, blind.
Piobaireachd (peebyrocht), Pipe music. Usually applied to a set piece in the form now commonly called a pibroch.
Ploc (plok), a round mass.
Ploc (plok) of Torridon. See Ploc.
Ploc-ard (plokart), Height of the round mass. See Ploc and Aird.
Poll a Chuillin (poll a choolin), Pool of the hollies. Poll, a pool; cuilionn, hollies.
Poolewe (pool-ew). This name means the pool of the Ewe; in Gaelic it is Poll-iu. Poll, a pool; iu, ewe.
Port Henderson. A modern name. The colloquial Gaelic name of the place is Portigill (porstigil). May be from Port a geal, the white port.
Port na h' Eille (port na hail), Port of the thong. Iall, a thong, a leather strap; possessive eille.
Port na Heile (port na hail). See Port na h' Eille.
Pronadh na Mial (prone-a na meoul), Crushing the louse. Pronadh, crushing; mial, louse.
Raasay, properly Rasaidh (raaser). Norse name. May perhaps include rath, an obsolete word for a round fort.
Rathad Mor (rart more), High (great) road. Rathad, road; mor, great.
Regoilachy (regoalachie). From fhrith (ree), a forest, and gobhlach, forked. The termination is probably for euphony, but may represent achadh, a field.
Rob Donn (rob doun), Brown or dun Robert; the soubriquet of the great Reay bard. Rob, Robert; donn, brown, or dun.
Rob Roy, for Rob Ruadh (rob rooer), Red Robert.
Rona (rowna). Norse; probably seal island. Ron is Gaelic for a seal; a is a Norse suffix meaning an island.
Roy. See Ruadh.
Ru, or Rudha (roo, or rooah), a point, a promontory.
Ru Nohar. Should be Rudha 'n Fhomhair, which see.
Ruadh (ru-er, or rooag), red, or auburn. Anglicé, roy.
Ruadh Stac (rooer stak), Red stack, or steep rock. Stac, a steep rock.
Ruaridh an Torra (roo-arie-an-tor), Rorie of the tor, or round smooth hill.
Ruaridh Breac (roo-arie brake), Spotted (or pock-pitted) Rorie, or Roderick. See Breac.
Ruaridh Ceard (roo-arie kard), Rorie the tinker. Ceard, a tinker.
Ruaridh Donn (roo-arie doun), Brown or dun Rorie.
Ruaridh Mac Allan M'Leod (roo-arie mak allan mak loud), Rorie, son of Allan M'Leod.
Rudha aird an anail (roo-arten annall), High point of breathing. Anail, breathing; aird, high.
Rudha Chailleach (roo chyleoch), Point of the old woman. Rudha, a point; cailleach, an old woman.
Rudha Mac Gille Aindreas (roo mak ill andres), Point of the servant of [St] Andrew. See Mac Gilleandreis.
Rudha mhadaidh ruaidh (roo vatter roo-ie), Fox point, or point of the red dog. Rudha, a point; madadh, a dog; ruadh, red.
Rudha 'n Fhomhair, or Fhamhair (roo noher), The point of the giant. Fomhair, a giant.
Rudha na Cloiche uaine (roo na clor-choo-ownyer), Greenstone point. Cloiche, possessive of clach, a stone; uaine, green.
Rudha Reidh (roo ray), Smooth point or headland. Rudha, a point; reidh, level. The name is very descriptive of the appearance of the headland as seen from the sea.
Runrig. A south Scotch or English word. In Gaelic it is called Mag maseach (mark mer sharch). Mag, a rig; maseach, alternate.
Ruymakilvandrich. See Rudha Mac Ghille Aindreas.
Sabhal Geal (sowl gayal), White barn. See separate words.
Sail Mor (sal more, or sowl more), The great heel. Sail, a heel. Descriptive of the shape of this spur of Beinn Eighe.
Saint Maelrubha (saint malruie). Maree is a corruption from this saint's name.
Sand (sand, or saunda). Name of a place by a sandy beach; evidently Norse. The full name of the place called Big Sand is Sanda a chorran, meaning "the sand of the shingly spit."
Sasunnach (sarsenach), Saxon, English, not a Gaelic speaker. Sasunnach mor, the big Englishman.
Scardroy. See Sgaird ruadh.
Scuir, or Sgorr (skoor), a peak or cliff.
Scuir a Laocainn (scoor a lyooakin), Peak of the calf's skin. Laodh, a calf; gin, abbreviation for craiceann (crakin), a skin.
Scuir a Mhuilin (skoor a voollin), Peak of the mill. Mhuilin, possessive of muileann, a mill.
Scuir na Feart (scoor na hairsht). Name of a peak; meaning unknown.
Seann Rudha (shoun roo), Old promontory. Seann, old; rudha, promontory.
Seann Seoc (shoun shok), Old Jock. Seann, old; seoc, Jock or Jack.
Seann Tighearna (shoun tcheerna), Old laird. Seann, old; tighearna, laird, proprietor.
Seannachaidh (shennachie), Reciter of old tales, recorder, remembrancer.
Seonaid Chrubach (shounat chruboch), Lame Jessie. Seonaid, Jessie; crubach, lame.
Sgaird ruadh (scart rooer), Red scree. Sgaird, a scree, shingly slope.
Sgalag (skallak), a servant, farm servant.
Sgeir, or Skeir (skeer), a rock surrounded by the sea.
Sgeir a Bhuic (skeir a vook), Island rock of the buck. From sgeir, a rock surrounded by the sea, and bhuic, possessive of boc, a buck.
Sgeir an Fharaig (skeir an harrik), Island rock of the surf. From fairge, surf, sea.
Sgeir Bhoora (skeir voora), Island rock of Boor. From sgeir, a rock surrounded by the sea, and Bhoora, possessive of Boor.
Sgorr, or Sgurr (skor, or skoor), a peak. It is often written here as elsewhere Scuir, but the former words are more correct.
Sgorr Dubh (scorr dhoo), Black peak.
Sgurr Ban (skoor barn), White peak. Sgurr, a peak; ban, white.
Shieldaig (shieldak). Probably a Norse name; meaning unknown. Aig is an old Danish suffix meaning a small bay. Shieldaig was formerly spelt Syldage, Sildag, and Shilkag.
Sian, or Seun (shee-un), a spell, charm, incantation.
Siol Mhic Ghille Challum (sheeol vik illie challum), Seed of Mac Gille Challum, whom see.
Siol Tormod (sheeol tormot), Seed of Tormod.
Siol Torquil (sheeol torquil), Seed of Torquil.
Sitheanan Dubha (sheean-an dhooar), Black knowes, fairies' hills. Sithean, a knowe; dubh, black.
Skar (scar), a screen. Obsolete.
Slaggan, properly Slagan (slagan). Diminutive of slag, or lag, a hollow. This place is for identification called in Gaelic An slagan odhar (an slagan our), or The little dun hollow.
Slatadale (slay ter dle). Norse; or it might possibly be connected with slaitan, fishing rods. In the old map of 1662 it is spelt Slotadull.
Slioch, or Sleugach (slee-och), resembling a spear. Sleagh, a spear. The mountain from some points of view is like a broad spear head. The name should not have Beinn before it.
Slogan (sloggan), a war cry. Obsolete now.
Smiorsair (smearesar). Name of a hamlet; probably from smior, the marrow, the best; aridh, a shieling.
Spidean Moirich (speetan moi-or-ich), Peak of Martha. Spidean, a peak; Moirich, possessive of Moireach, Martha.
Sporan (sporran), a purse.
Srondubh (strondhoo), Black nose or promontory. Sron (stron), a nose or promontory.
Sron a Choite (strunyer hote), Nose (or promontory) of the coble. Sron (stron), a nose or promontory; choite, possessive of coite, a coble.
Stac Buidhe (stack boo-ie), Yellow stack, i.e. steep rock. Stac, a stack, buidhe, yellow.
Stank house. An English name; but stank is from the Gaelic staing, a ditch.
Steall a Mhunidh (shteyole a vonie), Splash of the Pisvache. A fine waterfall, resembling the Pisvache of European celebrity.
Strath, properly Srath (strah), a broad valley.
Strath Chromple (strath roumpil), Valley of the curved opening. Crom, curved; beul, mouth or opening.
Suarachan (shore-achen). Soubriquet of Big Duncan of the Axe, being the diminutive of Suarach, insignificant; referring to his not having been thought worthy of being armed for the battle of Park.
Suidheachan Fhinn (seeachan een), Fingal's seat. Suidheachan, a turf seat; Fhinn, possessive of Fionn, Fingal.
Tagan (tahkan). Possibly Norse; may be from tathaich, a resort.
Talladale (tallardle). Probably Norse; may be from talla, a hall, and the Norse dahl or dal. In old documents it is spelt Alydyll, Allawdill, and Telledill. The two former spellings suggest that the name was formerly spelt with "th," pronounced as a soft aspirate.
Thorisdal, Dale of the Norse god Thor. See _Eilean Horisdale_.
Tigh Dige (ty dgeegie), House of the ditch. Tigh, a house; dig, a ditch.
Tigh mo Sheanair (ty mer henner), House of my grandfather. Tigh, a house; mo, my; sheanair, possessive of seanair, grandfather.
Tighearna Crubach (tcheerna krupboch), Lame laird.
Tighearna Ruadh (tcheerna roer), Red or auburn-haired laird or proprietor. Tighearna, laird; ruadh, red.
Tighearna Storach (tcheerna storroch), Buck-toothed laird.
Tighnafaolinn (ty na fualin). The sea-mews' home. Tigh, a house, home; faoileann, a sea-gull.
Tobar Mhoire (toppervorie) Well of the Virgin Mary, or of Mourie. Tobar, a well; Mhoire, possessive of Moire, Mary.
Tobar nan ceann (topper nan keyoun), Fountain or well of the heads. Tobar, a fountain, a well; ceann, a head.
Tollie, properly Tollidh (tolly), diminutive of Toll, a hole. All the Tollies are in hollows. Idh is a rare diminutive, but is sometimes used even in the present day.
Torasgian. See Tor-sgian.
Torr (torr), a mound or lump; generally applied to a round hill. The name is common in Gairloch and the neighbourhood, and seems specially applicable to the hummocks or domes of gneiss, noted as so frequent in this locality by Professor Geikie. The name Cnoc (krock), a knoll, has a somewhat similar meaning.
Torran nan Eun (torranan eeon), Mounds of the birds. Torran, mounds; eun, a bird.
Torran nan tighearnan (torran nan tchee-ernan), Mounds of the chieftains. Torr, a mound; tighearn, a chief, literally superior of land.
Torridon (torriden). Old name; perhaps Norse. Can it possibly be connected with torran, mounds, or lumps, which would be very descriptive? It is spelt Torvedene in the Sheriff's protocol of 1494.
Tor-sgian (toroshkin), peat cutter. Tor, a lump; sgian, a knife.
Tournaig, Gallice Turnaig (toornak). A Norse name. The suffix aig means a small bay in old Danish.
Truibhais (trewish), trews, a sort of trousers.
Tulachan (toolachen), a sham calf. Compare Gaelic tulg, to rock, or toss. The sham calf was moved to and fro to make the cow think it was sucking.
Tulchan. See Tulachan.
Tulloch Ard (tullochart), High knoll. Tulloch from tulach, a knoll; ard, high.
Uamh (oo-av), a cave.
Uamh a' Mhail (oo-av a varl), Cave of rent or tribute. Mhail, possessive of Mal, rent or tribute.
Uamh nam Freiceadain (ooie nam rekatan), Cave of the guard. Freiceadan, a guard, watching.
Uamh an Oir (ooav an or), Cave of gold. Oir, possessive of or, gold.
Uamh gu do roghiann (ooie gat der ooun), Cave for your choice. Gu, to, or for; do, your; roghiann, choice.
Uamh Mhic 'ille Rhiabhaich (ooie vick illie reeoach), The cave of the son of the brindled gillie or lad. Mhic (vik), possessive of Mac, son of; 'ille, for ghille, possessive of gille. See Mac Gille Riabhaich.
Udrigil (oodrigil). Probably a Norse name; meaning unknown.
Ullapool (oo-la-pull). An old name; probably from uile, all, and poll, a pool; signifying that it is a pool large enough for all.
Uistean (ooshtan). A Gaelic Christian name; Hugh is considered the English equivalent.
Vic. Popular spelling of Mhic, the possessive of Mac, son of. There is no v or w in Gaelic.
Introduction
Rathad mor a Ceann-loch-iu, Rathad ur a Ghearloch; Gabhaidh sinn an rathad mor Olc na math le cach e.--Gaelic Song.
The high road to Kenlochewe, The new road to Gairloch; Storm or sunshine, take with me The high road to Gairloch.--Free rendering.
Gairloch is a typical Highland parish on the west coast of Ross-shire. Its length, from Loch Rosque to Rudha Reidh, is thirty miles, and its width is fifteen miles, so that it is one of the most extensive parishes in Great Britain.
The name "Gairloch" is composed of two Gaelic words, gearr and loch. Gearr means "short"; and the sea-loch which gives its name to the parish is appropriately called short, as compared with Loch Broom, Loch Ewe, and other more deeply indented arms of the sea. The native spelling and pronunciation of the name prove the derivation beyond all question.
There is a curious muddle in the old and new Statistical Accounts about the origin of the name Gairloch. In the former (Appendix C) it is said to have been taken from "a very small loch near the church and the house of Flowerdale, and so close by the shore that the sea at high tides covers it." In the New Statistical Account (Appendix E) "a hollow spot of ground" is spoken of as "the Gairloch," and the writer states that the natives allege that the parish takes its name from it. The explanation is supplied by the story of Hector Roy and the three M'Leods given in Part I., chap. ix. The place referred to as "a very small loch" and "a hollow spot of ground," is now represented by a well, still called "the Gairloch" from the reason given in that story, but it did not originate the name of the parish.
* * * * *
The name Gairloch is used in four different senses both in the following pages and among the inhabitants. It means,--
1. The sea-loch or bay of Gairloch.
2. The whole parish.
3. The place at the head of the sea-loch where the hotel, &c., stand, more properly called Achdistall.
4. The original estate of the Mackenzie lairds of Gairloch.
These various meanings are a little confusing, but the context generally makes clear what is intended.
* * * * *
Considerations of health, followed by growing appreciation of the charms of Gairloch, have caused me to make my Highland home in this out-of-the-world parish. Its romantic scenery and health-giving climate are its most obvious attractions; but add to these its wonderful legends and traditions, the eventful history of its dominant family, the story of its old ironworks, the interesting peculiarities of its Highland inhabitants, the distinction conferred upon it by the visit of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, the great geological controversy about its rocks, the sport its waters afford to the angler, the varied subjects it displays to the artist, and the pregnant fields of research it yields to the scientist, and you have a list of allurements it would be difficult to beat elsewhere. Though its boundary line extends to within five miles of the railway, Gairloch still preserves many of the characteristics of old days, and these not only possess a peculiar fascination for most people, but are also well fitted to arouse and nourish a spirit of investigation.
* * * * *
The famous Loch Maree (with the small but romantic islet known as Isle Maree) is surrounded by the finest scenery in the parish. Their attractions bring annually some three thousand visitors to Gairloch. One might have fancied that such an influx of people would have led to the accumulation of a large and increasing stock of knowledge of this Highland parish, but as a rule the visitors are here to-day and gone to-morrow, and take no thorough interest in the country or its inhabitants.
Some years ago I happened to travel by the railway from Inverness to Achnasheen in the company of a pleasant party, comprising a gentleman and three ladies, who were making a tour in the Highlands. They boasted that, though their time had been limited to a very few days, they would have seen the greater part of the Highlands before they returned home. On the day I fell in with them their object was to see Loch Maree. To accomplish this they had arranged by telegraph for a carriage and pair to await the arrival of the train at Achnasheen. The day proved wet and misty, and I saw them leave the railway station in a close carriage. I followed soon after on the mail-car. A short delay took place at Kenlochewe whilst the horses were changed. There I found my fellow-travellers enjoying their lunch in the hotel. They told me that although the day was too wet for them to drive down to the shore of the loch, and too misty to admit of its being fully seen from a distance, yet they were quite able to say that they had seen Loch Maree, for at one point they had put their heads out of the windows of their carriage during a brief cessation of the rain and had distinctly seen the water of the loch! They were returning to Achnasheen as soon as they had swallowed their lunch, to catch the train back to Inverness the same afternoon.
These tourists, who thus professed to have "seen Loch Maree," were a fair type of too many of those who rush through Gairloch, as if their sole object were to cover the most ground in the shortest possible time, and who thus fail to obtain any true perception of the belongings of the country, even of the scenery.
There are first-rate hotels within the parish, and lodgings may frequently be hired, or a furnished house taken. The hotels offer the inducement of lower terms to those whose visits exceed the usually brief period.
Impressions of scenery are fixed by repetition; insight into nature is deepened by observation; and knowledge of a country is vastly more valuable if it include some acquaintance with the population, their characters, condition, and means of livelihood. Too many visitors overlook their opportunities in these directions.
Some remarks are necessary with regard to the traditions of Gairloch, contained mostly in Part I. In recent times there has been a tendency to discredit all such traditions, and to treat them as symbolic or didactic legends, or as localisations (with extra colouring) of myths common to the heroic period of every country. The principal features of one or two of the Gairloch traditions are certainly to be found in stories of other parts of the Highlands, and occasionally, but rarely, a resemblance may even be traced to the plot of some ancient European myth. On the other hand, it is to be noted that the Highland bards, down to the present time, have regularly transmitted their stories in precisely the same language from one trained memory to another, so that even the very words put into the mouths of the dramatis personæ have been insisted upon in every transmission. Another point to be noticed is, that except in two instances the Gairloch traditions do not date further back than four centuries. In the older legends referred to, visible evidences, such as the tombstones in Isle Maree and the cave at Ardlair, may perhaps be considered confirmatory. For my own part, I am disposed to accept all the traditions as generally worthy of credence. Much interest in the locality is gained by doing this, and certainly nothing is lost!
A difficulty the visitor to Gairloch always experiences is due to the Gaelic names. The Glossary should help to overcome this obstacle. Not only does it include the meanings of the Gaelic words, but it attempts to indicate their pronunciations. I am bound to warn the reader that the pronunciations stated are only approximate. There are sounds in the Gaelic language which cannot be expressed by English tongues or to English ears by any combinations of letters. Yet most of the pronunciations stated are sufficiently near the truth to answer ordinary purposes. I recommend the reader to refer to the Glossary at the occurrence of each Gaelic name in the book, and those names and their import will soon become familiar. The Gaelic sound of ch is about the same as that of the German ch; it does not occur in the English language, but unless you can master it there is no use in your trying to speak even the two leading names in this parish,--viz., Gairloch, and Loch Maree. Whatever you do, pray avoid pronouncing loch as if it were lock. This is the most egregious error made by many southerners in trying to speak the commonest Highland names.
In communicating to the public the information about Gairloch contained in the following pages, I claim the right to offer a word or two of counsel and entreaty.
I would submit that it is unfair, as well as discourteous, to interfere with the rights of those who take deer forests or rent sheep farms. Rambles on upland moors and mountain ascents are almost certain to injure the sport or privileges of others. I am aware there is a strong feeling that every one ought to have access to mountains. Whether this be legalised by Parliament or not, I would appeal to the visitor here to refrain from the illiberality and discourtesy of spoiling other people's hardly-earned and well-paid-for privileges. There is plenty of room for all. Why should unpleasant feelings be stirred up, and tourists as a class be blamed for the intolerance of a few? All the mountains and hills of Gairloch are haunts of the red deer or feeding-grounds of sheep, and no ascents ought to be undertaken unless by due arrangement, which cannot be expected in the deer-stalking season, and which, when obtainable, should be made with the head-keeper of the ground.
There are some drawbacks to mountain ascents that may help the visitor more willingly to forego them. How often the view from a summit is entirely blotted out by clouds or mist, or marred by the distance being lost in haze! How often the fine morning that induced the expedition is followed by a stormy afternoon! To these must be added the frequent injury to health caused by the unusual strain on the systems of persons unaccustomed to mountaineering, and the possible risk of being lost in mist. It is hoped that tourists will be content with the shorter climbs recommended in Part IV. Artists tell us that landscapes seen from lower elevations are more thoroughly picturesque than the bird's-eye views from mountain tops.
Again, I entreat botanists and others looking for wild flowers and plants to abstain from rooting up the rare or beautiful things they may find, and from trespassing in places where their presence is obviously not required. The mania for removing every fragment of an uncommon plant has grown much of late years,--witness the extermination of the edelweiss from some of its best known habitats on the Swiss Alps. Who does not remember places whence our own rare holly-fern has within the past few years been eradicated? A few years ago that comparatively scarce fern the sea-spleenwort (asplenium marinum) was abundant within three hundred yards of the Gairloch Hotel; now it is unknown there. A gentleman fond of botany planted some uncommon ferns not natives of Ross-shire in a wood in Gairloch parish; they were soon discovered by tourists staying at a neighbouring hotel, who ruthlessly removed the whole. Instances of this kind have brought the British tourist into disrepute in many parts of the world.
It is in the spirit of these remarks that I beg to introduce the reader to the charms of Gairloch and Loch Maree.
I. RECORDS AND TRADITIONS OF GAIRLOCH
CHAPTER PAGE
I. Early History 3
II. The Tragedy of Isle Maree 7
III. The Mackenzies of Kintail 11
IV. Ewan Mac Gabhar, the Son of the Goat 14
V. The MacRaes of Kintail and Gairloch 19
VI. The MacBeaths 21
VII. The M'Leods of Gairloch 24
VIII. The Macdonalds in Gairloch 27
IX. Hector Roy Mackenzie, First Laird of Gairloch 29
X. John Glassich Mackenzie and his Sons 36
XI. John Roy Mackenzie 38
XII. Expulsion of the M'Leods from Gairloch 43
XIII. Alastair Breac, and his Son and Grandson 49
XIV. The Baronets of Gairloch, and some other Gairloch Mackenzies 53
XV. Gairloch Estates, and Old Names of Places 60
XVI. Ecclesiastical History of Gairloch 63
XVII. Ancient Gairloch Ironworks 72
XVIII. The Historic Ironworks of Loch Maree 75
XIX. The Iron Ores used in Gairloch 86
XX. Remains of Ironworks in the Parish of Gairloch 90
XXI. Antiquities 97
GAIRLOCH
I. EARLY HISTORY
The blessedness attributed to the nation without a history cannot be assigned to the parish of Gairloch. Although her ancient history has never been written, it is to be feared her inhabitants were far from wholly blessed in the far off days of yore. The earlier annals of Gairloch are indeed veiled in mists, almost as impenetrable as those that often shroud her mountains. Amid the gloom there are faint glimpses to be had of the wild natives of the district, of fierce warriors from other lands, and of saintly Christian pioneers; but complete pictures of the doings of those old times can be found only in the galleries of the imagination. The same everlasting hills still tower over the same straths, glens, and lochs; but the actors are changed, the play has another plot, with incidents of a very different kind. In a region so innocent of letters, so inaccessible to the scholar, it is easy to account for the total absence of ancient records. The narratives of the seannachies, or bards, handed down by oral tradition from generation to generation, might have been expected to fill in the blank, yet it is only in the stories of some few salient adventures that these traditions have been preserved beyond the past four centuries.
Even imagination fails to carry us further back than the Picts or Celts or Gaels, who are supposed to have been the aborigines of all the British Isles. They were a wild warlike race,--wild from their rough struggling state of existence, warlike in their constant attitude of self-defence. Some have supposed that there were giants among them in those days, and that these were the originals of the colossal heroes of the Fingalian legends. The name of the Giant's Point (Ru Nohar) on Loch Maree, and the discoveries in the neighbourhood of what are alleged to be enormous graves, give some colour to the supposition. There are slight traces of Fingalian legends still current in the parish. Thus the hollow near the Gairloch Established Church, in which the Free Church communion services are held, is said to have been scooped out by Fingal for a bed where his white cow might calve. It is still called Leabaidh na Ba Bàine, or the bed of the white cow. Then the large stones in Loch Maree, in a line between the base of the Fox Point and the nearest part of the opposite shore, are said to have been placed there by Fingal for stepping-stones, to keep his feet dry when going this way to court Malvina, who lived in the direction of Torridon. Only an enormous giant could have stepped from stone to stone; they are to this day called the sweetheart's stepping-stones. Again, there is a mound in a depression near the summit of Beinn Tarsuinn, called Suidheachan Fhinn, or Fingal's seat, where they say he used to sit and spy when hunting on the mountains. These fragments are all we are told of Fingal's doings in Gairloch.
Though we know nothing of their history, we can infer much regarding the condition of the original Pictish inhabitants of Gairloch. That they were numerous, we may judge from the several remains of Pictish brochs or round houses to be seen in the parish. These are doubtless but samples of numbers of others, still buried beneath moss and heather, or long since obliterated by agricultural operations. Each broch was the abode of several families, huddled together beneath its roof of skins. Most of the primitive weapons or implements to be enumerated in the chapter on the antiquities of Gairloch belonged to the Pictish natives of the parish. Our eyes may see, our hands may grasp, the very implements these Gairloch men formed and used possibly before the Christian era; and as we look upon them we may readily conceive how straitened were their owners' circumstances. Amongst the antiquities some alleged Druidical remains will be mentioned. Whether these were really Druidical or no, it is certain that the religion of this district before Christianity took root was that of the Druids. The sacrifices of bulls on Isle Maree, practised, as we shall see, so lately as 1678, were unquestionably relics of the rites celebrated by the Druidical priests, though they themselves had vanished a thousand years before.
When Agricola invaded Scotland in A.D. 81, the tribe of Picts who inhabited Ross-shire was called the Cantæ. A punster might be excused for remarking (and that truly), that in Gairloch at least the race is still "canty," i.e. knowing. It is not probable that the Romans ever reached this part of Ross-shire; the nearest evidence of their invasion is some trace of their roads in Strathspey, a hundred miles from Gairloch. It is very likely that Gairloch men helped their fellow Celts in the battles with the Romans. Tacitus relates how the Highlanders at that period made sacrifices before going to battle, and fought with broadsword and targe. The country was then almost destitute of agriculture, being mostly vast forests and morasses, teeming with wolves and other wild beasts; the possessions of the people were herds of cattle.
When the Romans abandoned Britain, about A.D. 446, the Picts were under the sway of a king called Drust, the son of Erp, who is said to have lived a hundred years, and to have fought a hundred battles. The Pictish monarchy continued until A.D. 843, when Kenneth II. took Camelon, the capital of the Picts; on this the kings of Scotland, and subsequently of Great Britain, became at least the nominal rulers of the Highlands.
The introduction of Christianity brought a refining and civilising element to the rough people of the North, but it was many centuries before its influence became general. St Columba began his mission in A.D. 563, and the ecclesiastical establishment at Iona was the result. Local tradition says the little chapel at Sand of Udrigil, in Gairloch parish, was built by St Columba, or one of his immediate followers. But it was St Maelrubha who was the apostle of Gairloch and of the adjoining parish of Applecross; he founded the church of Applecross A.D. 673, and died there on 21st April A.D. 722. He appears to have made his Gairloch home on Isle Maree, a site that suggests the necessity, at least at first, of the Christian missionary having recourse to the protection afforded by an insular position. The new teaching soon displaced the Paganism of the Druids, though, in accordance with the policy of the early Christian church, the sacrifices of bulls were permitted, as we have seen, for a thousand years afterwards. The first church of Gairloch was dedicated to St Maelrubha; it was probably not erected until many years after his death. Tradition says that his cell on Isle Maree was occupied for some generations by the successors of this holy man; one of them is mentioned in the legend of the island given in the next chapter.
During the rule of the Pictish kings the Norwegian Vikings made continual raids upon the Highlands, at first as independent pirates, but later on as vassals of Harold Harfager, the first king of all Norway. About the end of the ninth century the Norwegians became so powerful as to be able to establish a separate and independent kingdom in Orkney and the Western Isles. Parts of Ross-shire were frequently ravaged, and often held, by them. In Gairloch they have left a number of footprints in the names of places. Thus the Islands Longa and Foura exhibit the Norwegian suffix a, meaning an island. The Vikings used to retire during the winter months to small islands off the coast, where they laid up their vessels. The names of these two Gairloch islands, according to the Rev. Isaac Taylor, bear curious evidence to their having been the winter quarters of Vikings. The tragic legend of Isle Maree, given in the next chapter, is an episode in the career of one of these piratical princes. A large Gairloch island is named Thorisdale, after the Norse god Thor. Among other Norwegian names in Gairloch is "Sgeir," i.e. a detached rock; it occurs in Sgeir Bhoora, Sgeir an Fharaig, &c. So also the suffix dale or dal is Norwegian; it occurs in Thorisdale, Talladale, Slatadale, Erradale, Inverasdale, &c. Naast is believed to be a Norwegian name. Other Norse names are given in the Glossary.
It has been supposed that the Danes did not invade the west coast, but an examination of Gairloch names shews that they were most likely here. Some of the Vikings were Danes. Mr Taylor says that the termination aig signifies a small bay, and is Danish; it occurs in a number of Gairloch names (see the Glossary). The Danes were driven out of Scotland in 1040.
There can be no doubt that both Norwegians and Danes intermarried with the people of Gairloch, and thus the native Pictish breed became a mixed race. One can almost identify Norwegian and Danish types of face in Gairloch to this day.
The dominion of the Norwegian monarchs over the Hebrides and some parts of the mainland was broken by the defeat of Haco the aged king of Norway, at the battle of Largs, on 3d October 1263. His successor Magnus, in 1266, ceded the whole of the Scottish territory held by Norway (except Orkney and Shetland) to the king of Scotland. An Icelandic saga states that Ross-shire was part of the dominion of the earls of Orkney under Norway, whilst another authority regards it as part of Scotland. In all probability the wild Highlanders of Ross had never entirely submitted to either king. Though the king of Norway at this time abandoned all claim to Ross-shire, yet some tribes of Norwegian descent long afterwards held Gairloch; they were the MacBeaths and M'Leods, of whom more shortly.
The earls of Ross followed the Norwegians in the rule of the Northern Highlands. They were of the ancient Celtic family of the O'Beolans, and had been the Pictish maormors of Ross before the title of earl (comes) took the place of the older Pictish designation. Gairloch, as a part of North Argyle, was included by name in the Sheriffdom of Skye, erected in 1292 by King John Balliol. This is believed to be the first mention of Gairloch in existing records. King Robert Bruce confirmed the possession of Gairloch to the earls of Ross between 1306 and 1329. In 1366 Earl William granted "to Paul M'Tyre and to his heirs by Mary of Grahame, with remainder to the lawful heirs of Paul, the lands of Gerloch within the parts of Argyle, for yearly payment of a penny of silver in name of blench ferme in lieu of every other service except the forinse service of the king when required." In 1372 King Robert II. confirmed the grant. Paul M'Tyre is stated to have been a cousin of Earl William; we hear no more of him.
Earl William left only a daughter, who married Walter Leslie. They had a son, Alexander, who became Earl of Ross, and also a daughter, who married Donald, Lord of the Isles. Earl Alexander married a daughter of the Regent, Robert Duke of Albany. Their only child Euphemia died young in 1406, after she had resigned her title to the son of the regent. Donald, Lord of the Isles, by virtue of his marriage with the daughter of Walter Leslie, laid claim to the earldom of Ross, in opposition to the regent's son. After a prolonged strife the earldom of Ross was forfeited, and annexed to the crown in 1476. During the unsettled period which began with Donald's ambitious claim, Gairloch seems to have been in a state of anarchy. Not only the MacBeaths and M'Leods struggled for its possession, but the Macdonalds, as clansmen of the Lord of the Isles, appear to have overrun the district.
Meanwhile the Mackenzies of Kintail had grown to be a great power in Ross-shire, and being of the same original stock as the O'Beolan earls of Ross, they had a better right to Gairloch than the other claimants, all of whom in turn gave way to the victorious Mackenzies.
The legends and narratives which follow are placed as nearly as may be in chronological order. They all belong to the period of the Mackenzies, except that of the tragedy of Isle Maree, which forms our next chapter; it occurred long before.
II. THE TRAGEDY OF ISLE MAREE
Isle Maree was as sweet a spot at the end of the ninth century as it is now. A thick grove of tall trees crowded round its circular Druidical enclosure. There were noble specimens of the indigenous oak, so mysteriously connected with the Druidical worship; there was a dense thicket of the smooth-leaved holly, the sacred tree brought here by St Maelrubha himself, who, it would seem, intended it to become (as it did) a Christian rival to the Pagan oak. Then, as now, the undergrowth of ferns and flowers, and a large kind of grass, attained almost tropical proportions beneath the benign influence of the warm shade.
The scene of our story is laid in this beautiful and hallowed island. St Maelrubha had been long gathered to his fathers, and the sacred college of Iona had appointed a successor to his hermitage on Isle Maree, who in turn had made room for another. The occupant of the cell at the date of our story is an aged saint of peculiar sagacity and piety. Long known to the wild people of Gairloch for his bold denunciations and shrewd penetration, he had acquired by his stern eloquence and ascetic life an extraordinary influence over them. The Christian festivals brought successive offerings to the sainted hermit, and the island oft resounded with the psalms of David chaunted by the throng of faithful pilgrims.
But not only the common people resorted to the cell of the holy man; the Norse Vikings, who held the district in partial subjugation, frequently came to him for the ministrations of religion and for the benefit of his sage counsel. To one and all, to young and old, to Celt and Norwegian, he was alike accessible.
A young Norwegian prince was chief among the Vikings who then dominated this part of the west coast. Prince Olaf was of the blood royal of Norway, and on this account alone would have been willingly adopted by his fellows as their leader, had not his personal bravery and reckless daring secured to him the post of honour. He had a grievous failing,--a restless and ungovernable temper. Naturally high-spirited, he had been as a boy the spoilt darling of his fellows, and had grown up a creature of impulse, subject to paroxysms of fearful passion. Whenever he was thwarted in his plans, or roused to anger by foe or friend, the evil spirit came upon him, and he lost all command of himself.
The prince lived with his fighting men in his great war galley, except during the winter, when they encamped on one or other of the islands of Loch Ewe. Often would Olaf repair to the hermitage of Isle Maree, and receive from the saint kindly advice and priestly absolution.
It was natural that one so impulsive should early fall under the influence of the tender passion. We need not try to imagine the story of Olaf's love; it was no common attachment; the flame burned in his breast with an intensity becoming his fiery spirit.
But a difficulty arose. He was unwilling, at least at first, to ask his bride to exchange the comparative quietude of her father's home for the restless life of a ship of war. In dire perplexity he sought the advice of his friend the saint of Isle Maree. The wise old man proposed that another and a larger dwelling should be erected in the form of a tower to the west of the enclosure in the centre of which stood his own humble cell. To this tower Olaf might bring his bride and there they might take up their abode, within easy reach of the prince's galley on Loch Ewe.
To hasten on. The prince eagerly adopted this plan, and in a short time the tower was built, and Olaf brought his bonny bride to the island. Here they were married by the aged hermit, amid the rejoicings of their followers. The princess and her maidens were delighted with the romantic and secure retreat. Olaf's attendants pitched their tents around, and the leafy grove grew gay with joyful laughter and with genial song.
For a while all went smoothly. The life of the young lovers was a continual delight; their passion for one another only increased as months rolled on. In vain his comrades sent message after message entreating the presence of the prince on board his ship. He could not tear himself away from his darling, and she in turn was more than unwilling that he should leave her. At length there came word that a long-planned expedition, in which other leaders were to take part, was ready to start, and Olaf was expected to assume the command. He dared no longer remain in retirement. With aching heart he told the princess of his approaching departure. Her tears were unavailing; on the morrow he must leave. Meanwhile strange forebodings of evil filled the minds of both. What if he should be slain in battle! What if some unknown danger should cause her death in his absence! A scheme was concocted for shortening the final moments of suspense. It was agreed that when the prince should return, a white flag would be displayed from his barge on Loch Maree if all were well; if otherwise, a black flag would be shewn. The maidens prepared these flags, and the prince took them with him. The princess was to leave the island in her barge whenever her lord's boat should come in sight, and she in like manner was to display a white or black flag to denote her safety or the reverse.
The morning came, and they parted. The prince arrived at Poolewe, was received by his men with wild enthusiasm, and set sail at once. It is not necessary that we should follow him through the perilous campaign. Enough that all ended well, and the victorious prince returned safely to Poolewe. In hot haste, and half crazy with excitement, he sought his boat on Loch Maree, raised with his own hand the snow-white banner of success, and mustered the faithful attendants who were to row him to Isle Maree.
During his absence the princess had passed through several phases of anxiety. At first despair took possession of her heart, and it was long ere the good old saint and her own maidens were able to soothe her with words of hope. As she became calmer, a new misgiving occurred to her. Did Olaf prefer the excitement of warfare to the peaceful society of his bride? Had she lost the devotion of his heart? Did he really love her? Then horrible jealousy became her absorbing feeling. Was the faithless prince to treat her as an insignificant plaything, to be caressed one day and deserted the next? It was all in vain that her companions strove to check this new folly; she declared continually that her husband had never truly loved her. Under the influence of this crushing doubt, she devised a scheme whereby she resolved to test the reality of his vaunted affection, if indeed he should ever return.
At last the lookout announced that he saw the prince's barge, bearing the white flag, emerge from the river Ewe into the open loch. And now what emotions filled the breast of the lovely princess! What conflicting sentiments, love and doubt, joy and fear! All had been arranged to carry out her strange scheme. The large barge was ready; from its stern the black flag was raised aloft; a bier was placed in the centre of the barge on which the princess herself--now pallid with anxiety--reclined as if sleeping the sleep of death; a white shroud covered her recumbent form; around were grouped her maidens, gloomy with well-simulated grief; and the sad and silent rowers moved the barge slowly onwards toward the lower end of Loch Maree.
Meanwhile Olaf gazed earnestly in the direction of the island (which was kept in sight all the way), urging anon his willing crew to put forth their utmost speed. Soon, in the distance, he discovered the barge of the princess. Could he be mistaken? Was that the black flag of death which waved above it? He made all his men in turn scrutinize the approaching barge, and each reluctantly confirmed what Olaf's own eyes had testified. Gradually the prince grew frantic with awful despair. Was he to be thus foiled by evil fate in the very hour of his triumph? Had death snatched his darling from his fond embrace? Were they never to meet again? Yes, he would follow her to that heavenly home the holy father had often told them of! His agony increased each moment; he cursed; he raved; his manly face became like a maniac's; his words and gestures were those of a man possessed. The crew were horror-struck; none dared speak; they pulled the oars with what seemed superhuman strength, but the wind was against them, and some time elapsed before the barges were alongside. The dreadful interval served only to increase the prince's frenzy; his wild ravings became unintelligible.
Before the vessels touched, the madman leapt into the other barge. He saw the shroud; he raised it; he gazed a moment on the still, pale face of his bride; he gave one agonized cry; then he plunged his dirk in his own breast, and in a moment that storm-tossed heart ceased to beat!
And now the miserable princess sprang from the bier, convinced too late of her husband's passionate love; there he lay dead, she alone the cause; with a wild shriek of remorse, she drew the dirk from Olaf's heart and plunged it in her own. Her death was not so instantaneous as his, and life had not quite fled when the barge, with its terrible freight, arrived at Isle Maree. The holy father raised the crucifix before the lady's closing eyes, and uttered words of earnest prayer; then her spirit passed away, and all was over.
The bodies of the unhappy pair were buried within the enclosure on the island, beneath the shade of the sacred hollies; they were laid with their feet towards each other, and smooth stones with outlines of mediæval crosses (see illustration) were placed over the graves, and there remain to this day. A few stones still indicate the site of the hermit's cell, and a considerable mound marks where the tower stood.
Such, with some little filling-in of detail, is the story as commonly told in Gairloch of the sad tragedy which casts a halo of romance around the beautiful Isle Maree. There are, as might be expected, some slightly different versions of the legend, but this is the most usual one. Its variations in form only go to prove its general truthfulness, and there is no reason to doubt that the tragedy really occurred substantially as here related; the tombstones, with their ancient crosses, are still to be seen, and there is no other account of them proposed.
III. THE MACKENZIES OF KINTAIL
Two origins of the great house of Mackenzie, lords of Kintail, and afterwards earls of Seaforth, of whom the Gairloch family are a branch, have been propounded, and have given rise to considerable discussion.
By one pedigree they have been made to spring from Colin Fitzgerald, descendant of Otho who came to England with William the Conqueror, fought with him at the battle of Hastings in 1066, and was created Castellan and Baron of Windsor. Otho married a Welsh princess; their grandson Maurice distinguished himself in the subjugation of Ireland, was appointed to the joint government of that country, and was created Baron of Wicklow and Naas Offelim in 1172. Others say this Maurice was of the ancient Tuscan family of Gherardini, who date as far back as A.D. 800. Gerald, a son of Maurice, was created Lord Offally. A grandson of Gerald married the grand-daughter and representative of the last of the ancient line of the kings of Desmond. Colin Fitzgerald was their eldest son. He came to Scotland, and assisted Alexander III. at the battle of Largs. It is said that Colin was afterwards settled by Alexander III. in Eileandonain Castle, in Kintail; that he received a grant of the lands of Kintail from that king; that he married the daughter of MacMhathain, heritor of the half of Kintail; and that their only son Kenneth became the progenitor of the clan MacKenneth, or Mackenzie.
The use of the Cabar Feidh, or deers' horns, as the crest of the Mackenzies, is supposed to have originated in a brave deed done by Colin Fitzgerald. He was hunting with Alexander III. in the forest of Mar in 1265 when an infuriated stag, closely pursued by the hounds, charged the king. Colin interposed, and shot the stag in the head with an arrow. The grateful monarch granted to Colin a stag's head puissant as his armorial bearing.
The other genealogy of the Mackenzies asserts that the first Kenneth from whom the family sprang was of a native Gaelic stock, almost as ancient as the ancestry of Fitzgerald. This descent is argued by Mr Alexander Mackenzie, in his History of the Mackenzies. Relying on an old MS. dated 1450, he shows that Kenneth was of the seed of Gilleon Og, or Colin the younger, son of Gilleon na h' Airde, who lived in the tenth century, and was also the ancestor of the O'Beolan earls of Ross. It seems that Angus MacMhathain, constable of Eileandonain, was descended from Gilleon Og, and was a near relative of the O'Beolan earls of Ross, who were the superior lords of Kintail. Kenneth, the only son of Angus, was a nephew of William, third Earl of Ross, and succeeded his father in the government of Kintail. This Kenneth, we may assume, was the founder of the Mackenzie family.
The question really seems to be whether Kenneth was a MacMhathain on his father's side or on his mother's side. In either case he had the blood of the earls of Ross flowing in his veins.
Kenneth, who died about 1304, set his relative, the Earl of Ross, at defiance, and established himself in an independent position as lord of Kintail, but his descendants were harassed by the earls of Ross, who endeavoured to regain their power in the district.
John Mackenzie, the second lord of Kintail, and only son of Kenneth, sheltered Robert Bruce when he was in hiding, and afterwards assisted him to gain the throne of Scotland. John Mackenzie led five hundred of his clansmen--some of them possibly Gairloch men--to the victorious field of Bannockburn on 24th June 1314, and by his loyalty and valour rendered more secure his possessions in Kintail.
Kenneth Mackenzie, called Kenneth of the Nose, only son of John, became third chief of Kintail; he was a weak man, and in his time the Earl of Ross regained a considerable hold over the district.
Kenlochewe, which is part of Gairloch in the present day, was attached to the lordship of Kintail and shared its troubles. It was about 1350 that some of the followers of the Earl of Ross made a raid into Kenlochewe, and carried off a great spoil. Kenneth Mackenzie, third lord of Kintail, pursued them, slew many of the invaders, and recovered much of the spoil. The Earl of Ross after this succeeded in apprehending Mackenzie, and had him executed at Inverness. The Earl then granted the lands of Kenlochewe to his follower Leod Mac Gilleandreis.
The fourth lord of Kintail was Black Murdo of the Cave, only lawful son of Kenneth of the Nose. Murdo received this soubriquet because, being a wild youth, he preferred, rather than attend the ward school where the heirs of those who held their lands from the king were sent, to take up his abode in some one or other of the caves about Torridon and Kenlochewe, hoping to get a chance of slaying Leod Mac Gilleandreis. The latter hearing of Murdo's resort, and fearing mischief, endeavoured to apprehend him, so that Murdo had to flee the country. He went to his uncle, M'Leod of the Lews, and there met one Gille Riabhach, who had come to Stornoway with twelve men about the same time as himself. After so long a time had elapsed that Mac Gilleandreis supposed Murdo was dead, his uncle gave to Murdo one of his great galleys or birlinns, with as many men as he desired. Murdo embarked at Stornoway, accompanied also by Gille Riabhach and his twelve men, and with a favourable wind they soon arrived at Sanachan in Kishorn. Thence they marched straight to Kenlochewe, and concealed themselves in a thick wood near the house of Mac Gilleandreis. Mackenzie left his followers there, whilst he went to look for his old nurse, who lived thereabouts. He found her engaged in making up a bundle of sticks to carry to Leod's house. Murdo inquired her name, for he did not remember her face at first. She gave her name, and inquired in return who he was. He told her, on which she replied, "Let me see your back, and I will know if you are that man." She remembered that he had a black spot on his back. He took off his clothes, and she saw the black spot, and so she knew him. She was overjoyed at his return, having long grieved for his supposed death. He asked her to procure him information of Leod's doings, and to let him know that night. He made up the bundle of sticks for her, and she went to Leod's house, and duly returned with the news that Leod had fixed a hunt for the next day, and was to meet the people at Kenlochewe in the morning. She said Leod might be known by the red jacket he wore. Murdo determined to take advantage of this occasion, and was early on the ground, accompanied by his followers. As the people arrived he slew all he did not recognise; the natives he knew were dismissed to their homes. When Leod, in his red jacket, came on the ground with his sons and attendants, Murdo and his band attacked them with their swords, and after a slight resistance Mac Gilleandreis and his followers fled, but were soon overtaken at a place ever since called Fe Leoid, where they were all slain except one of Leod's sons, named Paul, who was taken prisoner, but afterwards released on his promising never again to molest Mackenzie. Murdo gave the widow of Leod Mac Gilleandreis to Gille Riabhach to wife, and their posterity were long known at Kenlochewe. The heads of the people who were slain in Kenlochewe were cut off and thrown into the river there; the stream carried the heads down to a ford, where they massed together, and this place has ever since been called Ath-nan-ceann, or the "ford of the heads." The name is now corrupted into Athnagown or Anagown. It is shewn on the maps. The place where Leod Mac Gilleandreis and his followers were slain is about three miles from Kenlochewe, on the hill to the east of the Torridon road. The name Fe Leoid, more correctly written Feith Leoid, means the bog of Leod; it is also shewn on all the maps.
Black Murdo of the Cave, after dispossessing Leod Mac Gilleandreis, went to Kintail, where he was received with open arms by all the people of the country. He married the only daughter of his friend Macaulay, who had defended Eileandonain Castle during his long absence, and through her Mackenzie succeeded to the lands of Loch Broom (including probably the parts of Gairloch lying to the north of Loch Maree and Loch Ewe), granted to Macaulay's predecessor by Alexander II. In 1357, when David II., king of Scotland, returned from England, Murdo laid before his majesty a complaint against the Earl of Ross for the murder of his father, but could obtain no redress; however the king confirmed him in his possession of Kintail by charter dated 1362. Murdo died in 1375.
Murdo of the Bridge, only son of Black Murdo of the Cave, became the fifth lord of Kintail. He was one of the Highland chiefs who accompanied the Earl of Douglas to England and defeated the renowned Hotspur at the battle of Otterburn, or Chevy Chase, on 10th August 1388. Murdo refused to join Donald, the great Lord of the Isles, in his insurrection which culminated in the battle of Harlaw. The history of the Highlands shows that this was a period of extreme disorder and violence, and Gairloch itself was not exempt from the terrors of anarchy. Murdo does not appear to have troubled his head about his rights in Gairloch, and, as other parts of our history will shew, it was overrun by several tribes. Possibly neither this Murdo nor his father pressed their claim to Gairloch, being sufficiently occupied in keeping possession of Kintail. Ten years after King Robert II. had confirmed Kintail to Black Murdo of the Cave, the same king confirmed the grant of Gairloch made by the Earl of Ross to Paul M'Tyre (Part I., chap. i.). But we hear no more of Paul M'Tyre; and, as an old writer has well said of this time, "during this turbulent age securities and writs, as well as laws, were little regarded; each man's protection lay in his own strength."
Murdo of the Bridge, who died about 1416, married Finguala, daughter of Malcolm M'Leod of Harris by his wife Martha, daughter of Donald Earl of Mar, a nephew of King Robert Bruce. Their only son, Alexander the Upright, so called "for his righteousness," became the sixth laird of Kintail. He died in 1488, about ninety years of age. By his first wife, Anna Macdougall of Dunolly, he had two sons, Kenneth and Duncan. By his second marriage he had one son, known among Highlanders as Eachainn Ruadh, or Hector Roy, destined to become the famous founder of the Gairloch family. There was also a daughter by the second marriage, who became the wife of Allan M'Leod, laird of Gairloch.
In the year 1452, during the rule of Alexander the Upright, the desperate skirmish of Beallach nan Brog occurred, in which the Earl of Ross, to punish the western tribes for seizing his son, attacked and slaughtered his foes, including Mackenzie's Kenlochewe men, who are said to have been almost exterminated.
It is not within the scope of this narrative to pursue further the history of the great house of Kintail. The next chapter will relate a Gairloch legend treating of events which occurred during the time of one of the earlier Kintail Mackenzies.
It may be convenient to explain, that long before 1609, when Kenneth, twelfth laird of Kintail, was created Lord Mackenzie of Kintail, these great lairds were commonly called Lords of Kintail. Colin, son of this Kenneth, was created Earl of Seaforth and Viscount Fortrose in 1623. Some time prior to this date the possessions of the Kintail family had increased to the dimensions of a province, and Eileandonain Castle had ceased to be their headquarters, the castle of Chanonry in the Black Isle, formerly the bishop's palace, being preferred. The first Lord Seaforth added to Chanonry Castle, and built Brahan Castle, which continued the residence of the Seaforth family to a recent date. The family became extinct in the male line on the death of the last Lord Seaforth in 1815. Long before the erection of Brahan Castle the lairds of Kintail frequently resided at a mains or farm they possessed at Brahan.
IV. EWAN MAC GABHAR, THE SON OF THE GOAT
On the north-eastern shore of Loch Maree, about three miles above the place where the river Ewe leaves the loch, is situated Ardlair, than which no lovelier spot can be found in all the range of Highland scenery. There are groves of different kinds of trees, and a belt of them skirts the shingly shore of the loch; smooth grassy glades are interspersed among the woods, behind which rise a series of marvellous precipices, unclimbable, except in two or three places, save by sure-footed deer or goats. Below the steep background lie here and there great masses of rock, which ages ago have fallen from the cliffs above. About a quarter of a mile to the south-east of the present Ardlair House, and rather nearer to the house than a small tarn nestling there beneath the cliffs, is a large cairn or assemblage of enormous rocks, heaped and piled upon each other in fantastic confusion. Ash trees and wild roses, heather and ferns, grow in tangled medley among the débris, and, concealing the interstices, render access extremely difficult. But the persevering searcher will discover a roomy cave, formed by a mighty block of rock lying slantways over other fallen blocks. The entrance to the cave is well concealed, and can only be got at by climbing on to a ledge that forms a narrow platform in front of it. After groping two or three yards along a low narrow passage a dark chamber is reached in which one can stand upright. The floor is level, and perfectly dry. The cairn is about a hundred and fifty yards from the shore of Loch Maree. This cave is called by old Gairloch people now living "The cave of the king's son," a name that it owes to the following story, the opening scene of which is laid here. No date can be assigned to the events narrated, but they cannot have occurred later than in the thirteenth or fourteenth century.
A worthy old woman named Oighrig (Euphemia) lived near Letterewe with her only son Kenneth. They had a pet goat called Earba (i.e. a roe). The goat failing to yield the usual supply of milk was watched by Kenneth, who with much trouble and difficulty traced her at length to "the cave of the king's son," about three miles distant from their home. Here the goat held possession of the small platform in front of the entrance, and would not allow Kenneth to climb to it. He went for a rope, and throwing it over the goat's horns secured the animal. A beautiful little boy now appeared on the scene, and uttering sympathetic cries hugged the struggling goat. At first Kenneth thought that the child was a fairy, but he soon discovered his mistake. A young lady of great beauty came forth from the cave on hearing the cries of the little boy. It now appeared that the couple had taken refuge in this cave, where they would have perished from hunger had they not enticed the friendly Earba to supply them with her milk. Kenneth reported all the circumstances to his mother, who seeing that the helpless couple in the cave must ultimately die of want and cold if they remained there, went and persuaded them to come and live at the humble cottage near Letterewe. The young lady's name was Flora, and she told them that the boy's Christian name was Eoghan, or Ewan, but she would not reveal either of their surnames, so the boy was called Eoghan Mac Gabhar, i.e. Ewan the son of the goat, to his dying day. They all lived happily together. Earba brought them kids of her own, which the little Ewan herded and fed. Flora grew more lovely than ever, and Kenneth astonished even his own mother by his success in hunting and fishing for the maintenance of the increased family. Kenneth naturally fell in love with the beautiful Flora, though his mother strongly dissuaded him from his suit, pointing out that Flora was doubtless of royal lineage, being probably, though much older, the sister of Ewan, who from the sword and mantle that Flora with much care preserved for him, was probably the son of a king. The mantle was a robe of state of scarlet velvet bound and fringed with pure gold, and the sword had a hilt of gold and ivory, and some mystic characters engraved upon it. As young Ewan grew, his lordly disposition and commanding presence confirmed the belief that he was of royal birth.
Matters continued thus until one day the great lord of Kintail came from Eileandonain Castle to hunt the mountains of Letterewe. He came unexpectedly to Oighrig's cottage, and entering without ceremony jocosely blamed Kenneth, who was one of his foresters, for not being at the hunt. Then seeing Flora and Ewan he began to inquire who they were. Evasive answers were returned, and Kenneth and Flora pretended they were man and wife. The lord of Kintail on hearing the name Ewan Mac Gabhar exhibited surprise and even alarm, for he recalled a well-known prophecy about "the son of the goat," which had been erroneously interpreted as unfavourable to the destinies of the house of Kintail. Failing in persuading Flora to go away with him, his lordship left his kinsman Hector Dubh to watch the family. Flora and Ewan growing anxious under such circumstances soon afterwards resumed their concealment in the cave. On this Hector, suspecting that he was duped, hastened home with the news to Kintail. Fearing Lord Mackenzie's sleuth-hounds, the whole family decamped and went down to Poolewe, and Earba followed with her two kids. Next evening a vessel came to Poolewe and sent a boat ashore. Kenneth and Flora went down hand in hand to ask for a passage to the islands. As the boat approached they saw by their tartan that the crew were from Eileandonain Castle. They fled like deer, but the ground was rough for Flora, and they were soon overtaken, captured, and carried off in the vessel.
Oighrig and Ewan remained disconsolate, protected by friends near Poolewe; their store comprised the three goats, three baskets, and a small locked chest containing Ewan's sword and mantle and a few jewels. The captain of a vessel, which shortly came in to Poolewe, promised to take them to Eileandonain, where Oighrig wished to go in search of her son; but, whether by chance or design, the hapless pair were conveyed instead to the country of a great chief named Colin Mor Gillespie.
Oighrig and Ewan were there taken ashore. The captain searched their baggage, and found the mantle of state and the royal sword. Oighrig told him all the tale, and he repeated it to Colin Mor, who placed Oighrig in a hut beside his castle, provided well for her goats, and gave her a cow. He took Ewan to his castle, and brought him up with his own sons as a warrior and a gentleman. Meanwhile Kenneth, after gaining the favour of the lord of Kintail by his prowess in warfare, had found means to escape from Eileandonain with Flora; they married, and ultimately discovered Oighrig, who lived with them to a good old age.
As for Ewan Mac Gabhar, he grew up a strong brave man, and none could match him in warlike exercises. Orders came from the Scottish king for the prosecution of a great war against a realm which included the island of Mull, and was then under the rule of the queen widow of Olamh Mor, who had been the renowned monarch of that land. Colin Mor was joined by the lord of Kintail in this great enterprise, and with their allies they mustered an army of twenty thousand men. Ewan Mac Gabhar was all fire and eagerness for the glorious war, and was entrusted with the command of a thousand men. During the bustle of preparation a Highlander came and proffered his services to Ewan as page. Ewan at first rejected the offer, on the ground of the slender form and small stature of the man; but every day the page was in waiting, and proved so handy, that Ewan at last engaged him and entrusted him with his baggage.
The invading army succeeded in taking possession of the whole of the large island of Mull, which they plundered and burned. They then proceeded to the mainland in a vast fleet of vessels, and anchored in a long arm of the sea that extended twenty miles into the country, apparently Loch Sunart. Here they anchored, and the soldiery immediately began to burn and plunder without opposition.
At night the chiefs and some of their followers returned to the fleet as a safe and comfortable retreat. The main body of the army encamped at a considerable distance, having seen no appearance of a foe. But before daybreak the forces of the queen, who had quietly entered the loch in the night, surrounded the fleet of the invaders, and boarding the vessels, made prisoners of all the chiefs and of such of their followers as were with them, except a small number who were slain in a fruitless attempt at resistance. Colin Mor was taken, with two of his sons and Ewan Mac Gabhar. The lord of Kintail and three of his brothers, with sixty other gentlemen, were also made prisoners. The army on shore was surprised at the same time, and routed with great slaughter.
The nobles and chiefs were taken before the gallant and ruthless queen, who made a vehement speech charging them with being the slaves of a tyrant and with having persecuted and destroyed her royal race. She declared for vengeance, and in accordance with the savage usages of the times, ordered that next morning at nine o'clock the whole of the prisoners should be brought into her presence and hanged by sevens at a time, beginning with the youngest, so that the fathers might behold the dying throes of their sons.
The hour arrived, and the seven youngest prisoners were led forth to make their obeisance to the queen before their execution. When the queen saw them she began to shew signs of emotion, her colour went and came, her lips quivered, and she shrieked out, "O God! what do I see? Stop the execution! stop!" and then she fell down in a swoon. Her maids came to her assistance, and now a hundred shouts rent the air, "Mac Olamh Mhor! Mac Olamh Mhor!" (the son of Olaf the Great); and instantly all the queen's chiefs and kinsmen were kneeling round one of the condemned prisoners. He was a tall and goodly youth, clothed in his father's royal robe and with his father's ancient sword of state girded by his side. The reader will have guessed the name of the young king; he was none other than Ewan Mac Gabhar! Soon the enthusiastic shouts of the people seemed to rend the rocks, and Ewan was borne aloft on the shoulders of his kinsmen and seated on his father's throne. When the queen recovered, she began to doubt the sentiments of her own heart, and required proof that Ewan was indeed her beloved child who had long ago, as she believed, been foully murdered in his bed, along with her own sister, by the conspirators who had planned the destruction of her royal seed. The evidence was soon forthcoming. Ewan's page was none other than Flora, who was herself the youngest sister of the queen. She had, unrecognised, accompanied Ewan to the war, and, having charge of the mantle and the sword, had that morning arrayed him as his father was wont to be, certain of the effect. She explained how at the time of the conspiracy she had given up her bed to the wife and child of one of the conspirators who had intended to slay her and the infant Ewan, but who in the darkness had murdered the others instead; and how she had then escaped with her precious charge to "the cave of the king's son" at Ardlair on Loch Maree.
Thus Ewan Mac Gabhar was established in his kingdom. His first act of authority was to release all his condemned associates, whose joy and astonishment may well be conceived. He entertained them gallantly at his castle for many days, and a friendly league was formed that long preserved the peace and tranquillity of those realms. Ewan was greatly assisted in his kingdom by Kenneth, who had become a renowned warrior, and who with his beloved Flora came and resided at Ewan's castle. Ewan married Mary, youngest daughter of Mackenzie lord of Kintail, and by his friendship helped to increase the dominions of that great house, so that the old prophecy about the son of the goat (already referred to) was literally fulfilled:--
"The son of the goat shall triumphantly bear The mountain on flame and the horns of the deer,-- From forest of Loyne to the hill of Ben Croshen, From mountain to vale, and from ocean to ocean."
V. THE MACRAES OF KINTAIL AND GAIRLOCH
It is a singular fact that the first six lairds of Kintail (counting with them Angus Mac Mhathain) had each but one lawful son, so that the family of Mackenzie, now so numerous, increased at first but slowly. Murdo of the Bridge, fifth laird of Kintail, being thus without kindred of his own blood, invited one MacRae to join him in Kintail. This MacRae was from the same original stock as the Mackenzies. His father had come from Clunes, and settled at Brahan. MacRae, the son, accepted the invitation of Murdo, and went with him to Kintail, where his descendants became a numerous tribe, always owning the Mackenzies as their chiefs. Murdo hoped for faithful service from MacRae, and it was willingly given from generation to generation. The MacRaes were ever foremost in battle for their lairds, and became known as "Mackenzie's shirt of mail." This term "shirt of mail" was generally applied to the chosen bodyguard who attended a chief in war and fought around him. Hence it would appear that the bodyguard of the Mackenzie chiefs was composed of MacRaes.
The name MacRae was originally MacRath, signifying "the son of fortune." If it be true that "fortune favours the brave," these valiant warriors were rightly named, for bravery was ever their bright distinction, as our narrative will sufficiently shew. Not only were the MacRaes devoted to the Kintail family, but after Hector Roy Mackenzie went to Gairloch they assisted him and his descendants in conquering their possessions. Some of them settled in Gairloch, where their offspring are to this day.
In the following pages Iain MacIain Uidhir, Donald Mor, and Alastair Liath, who took part in the attack on MacBeath in the island of Loch Tollie; Donnachadh Mor na Tuaighe, or Big Duncan of the Axe, commonly called Suarachan, and Dugal his son; Iain Liath, who accompanied John Roy Mackenzie to Gairloch; and Donald Odhar, Iain Odhar, and Fionnla dubh na Saighead, who all three took leading parts in ousting the M'Leods from Gairloch,--were MacRaes from Kintail, and were all warriors of renown.
The Rev. Farquhar MacRae (Appendix A), ordained vicar of Gairloch in 1608 and afterwards constable of Eileandonain, was of the same tribe, but his fighting was confined to the church militant.
The effigy of the renowned Donald Odhar is one of the supporters in the coat-of-arms of the Gairloch Mackenzies sculptured on the old barn of Flowerdale, called the Sabhal Geal, erected by Sir Alexander Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch, in 1730.
Several of these MacRaes were wonderful archers. The arrow fired at the serving-man on the Loch Tollie island by Alastair Liath, must have killed its victim at a distance of fully five hundred yards. Donald Odhar and Iain Odhar, the heroes of Leac na Saighead, slew many M'Leods with their arrows nearly four hundred yards away. Fionnladh dubh na Saighead is said to have shot Neil M'Leod at a still greater distance. Lest any reader should doubt the authenticity of these performances, on account of the marvellous ranges attained, some instances of wonderful shots made by Turks may here be mentioned. In 1794 Mahmood Effendi, the Turkish Ambassador's secretary, in a field adjoining Bedford House, shot an arrow with a Turkish bow four hundred and fifteen yards against the wind, and four hundred and eighty-two yards with the wind. The secretary said the then Sultan of Turkey had shot five hundred yards, which was the greatest performance of the modern Turks up to that time; but he said that pillars stood on a plain near Constantinople marking distances anciently attained by bow-shot up to eight hundred yards. In 1798 the Sultan of Turkey surpassed all these achievements, by shooting an arrow nine hundred and seventy-two yards, in the presence of Sir Robert Ainslie, British Ambassador to the Sublime Porte.
It was always the privilege of the MacRaes of Kintail to bear the dead bodies of their chiefs to burial. At the funeral in 1862 of the Hon. Mrs Stewart Mackenzie, daughter and representative of the last Lord Seaforth, the coffin was borne by MacRaes of Kintail only. It was the last time! At the funeral of her son Colonel Keith Stewart Mackenzie, on 25th June 1881, there was not a sufficient number of MacRaes to bear the coffin from Brahan Castle. The few who were present claimed their privilege, and essayed to carry the dead. Some slight disputation occurred, but the vacant places had to be supplied from the Brahan tenantry. The following curious statement, referring to this incident, appeared in an Inverness newspaper soon afterwards:--"This seems to have had a most depressing effect upon the few handsome MacRaes, who hitherto were the most picturesque frequenters of the Inverness wool market, for on the last occasion not a single MacRae was seen dressed in the garb of the race. They have now nearly all been driven from the lands of their ancestors, and they have apparently thrown aside the kilt and donned the lowlanders' garb in disgust."
VI. THE MACBEATHS
Before the M'Leods got possession of Gairloch a tribe of MacBeaths were the most powerful sept in the district. They originally came (presumably in the thirteenth century) from Assynt, in the country of the Mackays in Sutherlandshire, and were of Norwegian descent. There are still some families of MacBeaths in Melvaig in Gairloch who are of the old breed. The chiefs of the MacBeaths had at least three strongholds in Gairloch, viz., Eilean Grudidh on Loch Maree, the island on Loch Tollie, and the Dun or Castle of Gairloch, all to be described in our chapter on the antiquities. Seven generations of MacBeaths occupied Eilean Grudidh, which seems to have been the last they held of these fortalices. The M'Leods, after a long struggle, subdued the MacBeaths, and expelled most of them from Gairloch. Those who were driven out fled to Applecross, where their descendants are to this day.
The earls of Ross must have had many a conflict with the MacBeaths, but no traditions on the subject are extant, nor have any accounts been preserved telling how the M'Leods ousted the MacBeaths. It is possible, however, that a fight which is said to have taken place near a very small loch or pond called Lochan nan Airm, to the right of the road as you go from Gairloch to Poolewe, may have been an engagement in which the MacBeaths were concerned. Lochan nan Airm, or "the tarn of the arms," is about two hundred yards from the road, and half a mile beyond the top of Achtercairn Brae. Those who were vanquished in this fight threw their arms into the loch (whence its name), partly to lighten themselves for flight, and partly to prevent the weapons from falling into the hands of the victors. It is said that the formation of a drain, intended to empty the loch so as to discover the arms, was once commenced, but was stopped by the then laird of Gairloch, whose permission had not been asked. The beginning of the drain is still apparent; it would be interesting to complete it.
The following story relates an attempt on the part of some of the lord of Kintail's men to slay one of the leaders of the MacBeaths, possibly the chief of the tribe. It evidently took place in the latter part of the career of the MacBeaths in Gairloch.
Once upon a time there lived a powerful man--Iain Mac Iain Uidhir--in the Carr of Kintail, and when he heard such aliens (the MacBeaths) resided in the island of Loch Tollie, he thought within himself, on New Years' night, that it was a pity that such mischievous strangers should be in the place, raising rents on the land which did not of right belong to them, while some of the offspring of gentlemen of the clan Mackenzie, although a few of them possessed lands, were without possessions.
Some little time after this, when the snow was melting off the mountains, he lifted his arrow bladder on his back, sent word for Big Donald, son of the son of Ranald MacRae from Inverinate, and they walked as one together across Kilaolainn. Old Alastair Liath of Carr accompanied them. They walked through the mountains of Loch-carron. They came in by the mountains of Kenlochewe. They came at a late hour in sight of Loch Tollie, and they took notice of MacBeath's castle in the island, and of a place whence it would be easy for them to send their arrows to the castle. There was a rowan-tree alongside the castle, which was in their way, but when the darkening of night came they moved down to the shore in such a way that the heroes got near the bank of the loch, so that they might in the breaking of the sky be opposite MacBeath when he came out.
When MacBeath came out in the morning, the other man said to Donald Mor, "Try how true your hand is now, if it is not tremulous after the night; try if you can hit the seed of the beast, the hare, so that you make a carcase of him where he is, inasmuch as he has no right to be there." Donald shot his arrow by chance, but it only became flattened against one of the kind of windows in the kind of castle that was in it.
When the man from Carr saw what happened to the arrow of the man from Inverinate, he thought that his companion's arrow was only a useless one. The man from Carr got a glimpse of one of the servants of MacBeath, carrying with him a stoup of water to boil a goat buck, which he had taken from Craig Tollie the night before; but, poor fellow! it was not he who consumed the goat buck. Old Alastair Liath of Carr threw the arrow, and it went through the kidneys of him of the water-stoup.
MacBeath suspected that a kind of something was behind him which he did not know about. He thought within himself not to wait to eat the goat buck; that it would be as well for him to go ashore--life or death to him--as long as he had the chance to cross. He lifted every arrangement he had, and he made the shore of it. Those who would not follow him he left behind him; he walked as fast as was in his joints, but fast as MacBeath was, the arrow of the son of Big Donald fixed in him in the thickest of his flesh. He ran with the arrow fixed, and his left hand fixed in the arrow, hoping always that he would pull it out. He ran down the brae to a place which is called Boora to this day; and the reason of that name is, that when MacBeath pulled the arrow out, a buradh, or bursting forth of blood, came after it.
When the Kintail men saw that the superior of the kind of fortress had flown, they walked round the head of Loch Tollie sprawling, tired as they were; and the very ferry-boat which took MacBeath ashore took the MacRaes to the island. They used part of the goat buck which MacBeath was to have had to his meal. They looked at the man of whom they had made a corpse, while the cook went to the preparation for the morning meal. Difficulty nor distress were not apparent on the Kintail men. The fearless heroes put past the night in the castle. They feared not MacBeath; but MacBeath was frightened enough that what he did not get he would soon get.
Although the pursuit of the aliens from Mackay's country was in the minds of the Kintail men, they thought they would go and see how the lands of Gairloch lay. They went away in the morning of the next day, after making cuaranan (untanned shoes) of the skin of the goat buck by putting thongs through it, as they had worn out their own on the way coming from Kintail. They came through Gairloch; they took notice of everything as they desired. They walked step by step, as they could do, without fear or bodily dismay. They reached Brahan; they saluted Mackenzie. They said boldly, if he had more sons that they would find more land for him. Mackenzie invited them in, and took their news. They told him about the land of Gairloch, the way in which they saw MacBeath, and the way in which they made him flee, and the time which they lived on the flesh of the goat buck. "And Kenneth," says Donald (addressing the chief), "I shall remember the day of the foot of the goat buck as long as Donald is [my name] on me."
VII. THE M'LEODS OF GAIRLOCH
It is difficult to tell how the M'Leods came to Gairloch. It is not impossible that their claim to it may have dated back to the times of the Norse Vikings, from one of whom, tradition says, the M'Leods were descended. There were two clans of M'Leod,--the Siol Torquil, and the Siol Tormod,--perfectly distinct and independent of each other, though said to have sprung from one common progenitor named Leod. It was a branch of the Siol Torquil who took possession of Gairloch.
Donald, Lord of the Isles, who about 1410 laid claim to the earldom of Ross in right of his wife (Part I., chap. i.), was the son of John Macdonald of Islay, first lord of the Isles. John claimed the islands of Skye and the Lews under a grant by Edward Balliol. When John made his peace with King David in 1344 he retained the Lews. From this time the Siol Torquil held the Lews as vassals of the house of Islay. It seems highly probable that Gairloch, Loch Broom, Coigeach, and Assynt, being the adjacent parts of the mainland, were at first similarly held by the Siol Torquil, a branch of whom called the Siol Mhic Ghille Challum also acquired the island of Raasay. In this case their original claim to Gairloch would be derived either from the first lord of the Isles, or his son Donald, Lord of the Isles and Earl of Ross. On no other theory can the sway of the M'Leods in Gairloch be accounted for consistently with the history of the times, unless indeed it was purely the result of "vaulting ambition."
However this may have been, a branch of the Siol Mhic Ghille Challum soon made good an independent claim to Gairloch. Oddly enough a family feud was the commencement, as another was the ending fifty years later, of their legal title to Gairloch. In 1430 King James I. granted "to Nele Nelesoun, for his homage and service in the capture of his deceased brother Thomas Nelesoun, a rebel, the lands of Gerloch and others in the earldoms of Ross and Sutherland and sheriffdom of Innernys."
On this grant Neil, the son of Neil M'Leod, no doubt took steps to enforce his claim to Gairloch, and to subdue the MacBeaths, most of whom he drove from the country. He is said to have captured their three strongholds,--Eilean Grudidh, the Loch Tollie island, and the Gairloch Dun. It is in the time of the M'Leods that we first hear of the Tigh Dige (ditch house), situated in a field below where Flowerdale House now stands. It was a "black house," built of turf, roofed with divots (large thin turfs), and surrounded by a moat or ditch.
The M'Leods also had another stronghold in Gairloch, between Port Henderson and Opinan, the site of which is still called Uamh nam Freiceadain, and which was the last fortress they held in Gairloch.
Eilean Ruaridh Beag, in Loch Maree, was held by one Roderick (Ruaridh) M'Leod, after whom it was named. A fierce struggle, the details of which are now lost, took place before the M'Leods were ejected from this island, which afterwards became the residence of John Roy Mackenzie, the fourth laird of Gairloch.
About 1480 Allan M'Leod, son of Roderick M'Leod, was laird of Gairloch. His wife was daughter of Alexander the Upright, sixth laird of Kintail, and sister of Hector Roy Mackenzie. They had two sons, who were then little boys. The family lived on the island in Loch Tollie,--the same fortalice formerly occupied by the MacBeaths. It was considered a safe retreat in those unsettled times. Allan M'Leod was a peaceful man, and occupied himself to a great extent with the sport the country afforded. But an evil day was coming. His two brothers, who resided with their people in the Lews, were unwilling that Mackenzie blood should run in the veins of the heir of Gairloch. They determined to slay their brother and his two boys, so that the inheritance might fall to themselves. With this evil purpose they came over to Gairloch, and took up their abode at the Tigh Dige, where they made every preparation for the carrying out of their wicked scheme.
On the morning of the fatal day Allan M'Leod left the Loch Tollie Island in his boat, and having landed at the east end of the loch, went down Croftbrae to fish the river Ewe. At midday, as it was hot, and the fish were not taking, he lay down on the green hill at Croft, where the house of Kenneth Urquhart (called Kennie Rob) now stands. The hill is named to this day Cnoc na mi-Chomhairle, or the "Hill of evil counsel." There Allan fell fast asleep. His two brothers came over from Gairloch to carry out their murderous intention. When they came to Loch Tollie they saw the boat ashore at the east end of the loch, and therefore rightly concluded that their brother had gone down to fish the river. They followed, and finding him asleep, killed him where he lay. They cut off his head, and threw it into the mill-lead or race, between the green hill and the spot where the Widows' house, originally built for a distillery, and therefore known as "The still," now stands, and the head was washed down into the river. The brothers then returned to Loch Tollie, and taking the boat reached the island. There they told their brother's widow how they had slain him, and then they tore her little boys from her trembling grasp. They carried them away with them, and when they came to a spot above and to the north of the place now called "The glen" the ruffians killed the boys, and buried them there at a rock still called Craig Bhadan an Aisc, or the "rock of the place of interment." It is shewn on the six-inch ordnance map. They stripped the blood-stained shirts from the bodies as proofs that the boys were dead, and took them with them to the Tigh Dige. At that time the dress of a boy consisted only of a stout shirt or tunic, with a belt round the waist, until such time as he was old enough for the belted plaid. The bereaved mother came ashore as soon as she could, and followed the murderers. She came in the evening to a place called Clachan garbh, on the little burn half way between Achtercairn and the present Gairloch Hotel. There were houses there at that time. She went to an old man there, who had been a faithful retainer of her husband; she told him her terrible story. He bade her wait until he went to the Tigh Dige to see if her brothers-in-law had really killed the two boys. When it became dark he went to the Tigh Dige, and through an opening he saw by the firelight the boys' little shirts hanging up. He managed unperceived to get possession of the shirts, and brought them to the mother; they were covered with blood. The mother took the shirts, and went off straight with them to Brahan to her father, Alexander the Upright, who did not credit his daughter's terrible tale until she shewed him the blood-stained shirts. Alexander, who was then an infirm old man, sent his son Hector Roy Mackenzie to Edinburgh to the king, and he produced the shirts to satisfy the king that the triple murder had really been committed. The king gave Hector Roy a commission of fire and sword for the destruction of the M'Leods, and in 1494 he received a grant of Gairloch by charter from the crown.
The proceedings which ensued, and the circumstances attending the expulsion of the M'Leods long afterwards from Gairloch, will be narrated later on. Meanwhile the reader will be glad to learn that the two murderers were afterwards routed in a skirmish on the south side of Gairloch by one of the MacRae heroes, who pursued them to a spot between South Erradale and Point, where he slew them both, and they were buried in a hollow there, which is pointed out to this day.
Although the crown charter of 1494 granted the whole of Gairloch to Hector Roy Mackenzie, the M'Leods, as we shall see, retained for another century one-third part of Gairloch. The terrible murder committed about 1569 by Ruaridh Mac Allan M'Leod of Gairloch (Part I., chap. xii.) is curiously analogous to that recorded above. The murder of 1569 was the immediate cause of the warfare which resulted in the final expulsion of the M'Leods from Gairloch, just as that of 1480 had led to their being ousted from a great part of their territory there.
Family feuds and jealousies were the causes of the ultimate dismemberment of the Siol Torquil, and of the alienation of the whole of their vast possessions. Anyone who cares to trace their history, as given in Donald Gregory's and other works, will learn how all this happened; it does not concern us further here.
VIII. THE MACDONALDS IN GAIRLOCH
It will be remembered that Donald, Lord of the Isles, laid claim to and took possession of the earldom of Ross. This was about the beginning of the fifteenth century. It was probably from him, or from his father John Macdonald of Islay, first lord of the Isles, that the MacLeods of the Lews (the Siol Torquil) first obtained a title to Gairloch, as pointed out in the last chapter. To some extent Donald succeeded in subjugating Ross-shire, though several chiefs, including Mackenzie of Kintail, maintained their independence. It is easy to understand that Gairloch and other places adjacent to Skye would be overrun by the Macdonalds of Skye, the clansmen of the lord of the Isles. Some of them settled in Gairloch, and their offspring are still there. A charter of 1584 shews that Torridon, on the southern border of Gairloch, then belonged to Macdonald of Glengarry, a descendant of the lord of the Isles, and nineteen families of Macdonalds still dwell in Alligin on Loch Torridon.
One of the Macdonalds who came to Gairloch was named Mac Gille Riabhaich. Possibly he was a descendant of Gille Riabhach, who assisted Murdo Mackenzie, fourth lord of Kintail, to overcome Leod Mac Gilleandreis (Part I., chap. iii.). He took up his abode in a cave called Uamh Mhic 'ille Rhiabhaich, or the "cave of Mac Gille Riabhaich." It is close to a picturesque loch bearing the same name, on which are two small islands, one of which seems to have been a crannog or island fortalice, probably a refuge of Mac Gille Riabhaich in times of danger. The cave and loch are among the hills, two miles due east from Tournaig, in the parish of Gairloch.
Mac Gille Riabhaich was a notorious freebooter, as well as a warrior of renown. He was at the battle of Flodden Field in 1513. He became a well-known "lifter" of other people's cattle, and is said to have been outlawed. A story is related of him, which is given here not only because it illustrates the reckless lawlessness of the old Highlanders, but because its hero was an inhabitant of Gairloch.
A party of Macdonalds invaded one of the Outer Hebrides, and Mac Gille Riabhaich accompanied them. At that time he was a powerful youth, and always carried a stout oak cudgel. The invaders having exhausted their provisions, landed on an island in a state of hunger. Proceeding to reconnoitre, they soon came unperceived upon a party of the natives gathered round a fire in the open air, over which hung, from three sticks joined at the top, a large pot, in which meat was being stewed. Mac Gille Riabhaich, longing for something to allay the appetites of himself and his hungry comrades, suddenly rushed on the natives, and plied his oak staff with such effect that they fled in all directions. He then seized the pot, and by placing the oak stick through the suspender, swung it over his shoulder, and carried it away with its reeking contents to his companions, regardless of the risk of its burning him. For this daring exploit Mac Gille Riabhaich received the soubriquet of Darach or Darroch, which is Gaelic for an oak.
From him are descended the numerous families of the Darrochs in Jura and Kintyre, of whom is Mr Duncan Darroch, the present proprietor of Torridon. They still wear the Macdonald tartan. An ancestor of the laird of Torridon, also named Duncan Darroch, was the son of a tacksman whose grandfather had come from the north and settled in Jura. The story of Mac Gille Riabhaich is confirmed by the fact, that when this last-named Duncan Darroch, having made a fortune in Jamaica, went to the Heralds Office to matriculate family arms and to prove his right to assume those of Macdonald, the Lyon King at Arms remarked, "We must not lose the memory of the old oak stick and its exploit;" whereupon the arms, still borne by the family, in which the oak is prominent, were granted to "Duncan Darroch, Esquire of Gourock, chief of that ancient name, the patronymic of which is M'Iliriach."
Donald Dubh Mac Gillechriosd Mhic Gille Riabhaich is said to have been a relative of our hero of the oak stick, if indeed he were not the same individual. He lived at Kenlochewe about the same period. When Hector Roy Mackenzie was attacked and brought to terms by his nephew John of Killin, ninth lord of Kintail, the latter surrounded and set fire to Hector Roy's house at Fairburn. John of Killin called on his uncle to surrender and come forth, assuring him of his life. Hector was about to comply, when Donald Dubh, who was one of John of Killin's followers, made for the door with his two-edged sword drawn. Hector Roy, seeing Donald Dubh, called out to his nephew that he would rather be burned in the house than slaughtered by Donald Dubh. John called Donald away and Hector rushed out of the burning pile, whereupon he and his nephew became reconciled. It was agreed that Hector Roy should manage the Kintail estates as tutor to his nephew until the latter came of age. Next day Hector set about arranging the lands of Kenlochewe, which, it will be remembered, had long been part of the Kintail estates. Donald Dubh applied for a set of land. Hector Roy said, "I wonder, Donald, how you can ask land this day that was so forward to kill me yesterday." Donald, in reply, justified his hostility by a reference to the murder of Kenneth Og, eighth laird of Kintail (elder brother of John of Killin), to which Donald Dubh incorrectly supposed Hector Roy had been accessory. Donald had been foster brother of Kenneth Og, and bitterly resented the murder, for which in reality the laird of Buchanan was solely to blame. Hector Roy answered, "Well, Donald, I doubt not, if you had such fosterage to me as you had to that man, you would act the like for me, so you shall have your choice of all the land;" and Donald got it. From this time he was at peace with Hector Roy, and was among the clansmen who accompanied him and John of Killin to the fatal field of Flodden in 1513. Here it was that Donald Dubh at length avenged the death of his foster brother Kenneth Og, the late chief of Kintail. In the retreat of the Scottish army he heard some one near him exclaiming, "Alas, laird! thou hast fallen!" On inquiry he was told it was the laird of Buchanan, who had sunk from loss of blood. The faithful Highlander drew his sword, and saying, "If he has not fallen, he shall fall," made straight to Buchanan, whom he killed on the spot.