Opening…

Introduction

HISTORICAL NARRATIVE OF THE INSTITUTION OF THE BOARD OF COMMISSIONERS, AND PROGRESS MADE IN THE ERECTION OF THE NORTHERN LIGHT-HOUSES.

Page

Early Voyages of the Scots. Extension of Trade. Charts of the Coast. 1-4

1786. Proposition for the establishment of a Light-house Board in Scotland. Original act passed in 1786. Commissioners appointed. First Meeting of the Board. Mode of raising Funds. 5-6

1787. Kinnaird-Head and Mull of Kintyre Light-houses. 6-8

1788. Light Duty found to be too small. Act of 1788. 9

1789. Island Glass, North Ronaldsay, and Pladda Light-houses. Collectors of the Light-Duties appointed. 10-11

1791. Pladda distinguishing Light. Annual Supply and Inspection of the Light-houses. Light-keepers’ Salary. Economical plan of early Light-houses. 12-14

1793. Application for Additional Lights. State of the Light-house Funds. 14-15

1794. Pentland Skerry Light-house. Writer’s first Voyage to the North. Loss of the Sloop Elizabeth. Mr Balfour and Mr Riddoch of Orkney presented with Pieces of Plate. 15-17

Act Incorporating the Commissioners into a Board or Body Politic. Additional works at the Light-houses already built. Proposition for altering Kinnaird-Head Light-house. 18-19

1801. Numerous Shipwrecks on the Island of Sanday. Proofs of a severe winter in Orkney. Quarries at Sanday and Eda. Encroachments of the Sea. Remarks on Ruble Building, and Houses with double walls. Foundation-Stone of Start Point Light-house laid. Reverend Walter Traill’s Address upon this occasion. 19-23

1803. Inchkeith Light-house. Originally proposed as a Leading Light. Duty for Inchkeith modified. Light-keepers Accommodations extended. Construction of Light-rooms and Reflectors improved. Inscription upon Inchkeith Light-house. Pilot’s guard-room. Shipwrecked Seamen sheltered. 24-29

1806. Start-Point Light exhibited, and North Ronaldsay Light-house converted into a Beacon. List of 22 Shipwrecks on the Island of Sanday, in the course of Twelve Years. Foreman and Artificers lost in the Traveller. Captain Manby’s Apparatus, 30-34

Island of May Light-house. Patent ratified 1641; the Duty for that Light complained of after the Union. Family of Scotstarvet become Proprietors. Chamber of Commerce get that Light improved. Portland Family become Proprietors. Loss of the Nymphen and Pallas Frigates. Lord Melville, First Lord of the Admiralty, applies to the Light-house Board, by whom the Duties and Island of May are purchased. Additional apartments provided at the Isle of May. Notice of the alteration of this Light and that of Inchkeith. Pilot’s guard-room. 36-41

1815. Corsewall Light-house. Foundation-stone laid. Light exhibited. 42-44

1818. Isle of Man Light-houses. Writer’s Report in the year 1802, relative to the erection of Light-houses on the Isle of Man. Trade of Liverpool applies to the Commissioners to erect them. Act of 1815, obtained by Sir W. Rae, with regard to these Lights. Difficulty of fixing their Sites. Lights exhibited 1st February 1818. Sum expended by the Light-house Board, on the East Coast, in the course of 10 years. 44-48

1821. Sumburgh-head Light exhibited. This House built with double walls, 52

Carr Rock Beacon. List of 16 vessels wrecked there in the course of nine years. Floating-Buoy moored off this dangerous Reef. Beacon of Masonry designed, with Tide-machine and Bell-apparatus. Dimensions of Carr Rock. Difficulties of this work. It is frequently damaged in Storms. The upper part ultimately completed with cast-iron, without the Alarm-Bell. 56-62

Duties exigible. Expence of Management. Accounts of the Light-house Board made public. Application of the Funds, and disposal of the Surplus. Practical Management. 63-64

ACCOUNT OF THE BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE.

CHAP. I.

NAME, SITUATION, DIMENSIONS, AND NATURAL HISTORY, OF THE BELL ROCK.--DEPTH OF WATER, AND CURRENT OF THE TIDES IN ITS VICINITY.

Page

Origin of the Names Inch-Cape and Bell Rock. Tradition of a Bell erected by one of the Abbots of Aberbrothock. 67-68

Situation, Dimensions, and Mineralogy of the Rock. Wasting effects of the Sea. Proofs of its having occupied a higher Level. 69-71

Plants, Animals, Insect destructive to Timber. Experiment with pieces of Timber fixed to the Rock. Mussels attempted to be planted upon it. Habits of Fishes. 72-74

Depth of Water upon the Rock, and at the distance of 100 yards from it. Tides at the Rock. Not accounted for by Writers on the subject. Progress of the great Waves of the Tide. Periods of High-water at different places in the Firth of Forth. Currents at the Mouth of the River Dee. Water salt at bottom and fresh at top. Phenomenon of in and off shore Tides. Tides of Mediterranean and Baltic Seas. 75-81

CHAP. II.

POSITION OF THE BELL ROCK.--DESIGNS FOR THE LIGHT-HOUSE.--BILL BY LORD ADVOCATE HOPE IN 1803.--BILL BY LORD ADVOCATE ERSKINE IN 1806.--REPORT OF THE COMMITTEE OF THE HOUSE OF COMMONS.--PASSING OF THE BILL.

Dangerous Position of the Rock. Sir Alexander Cochrane’s Letter to the Light-house Board. Great Storm in 1799. Expence of the Light-house, as estimated by the Public. Designs by Captain Brodie and Mr Cooper. Captain Brodie’s remuneration. The Writer’s first visit to the Rock in the year 1800. Pillar-formed Building compared with one of Stone. Mr Telford requested to give a Design. Mr Downie’s Pillar-formed Design. 81-93

Bell Rock Light-house proposed at the Convention of Royal Burghs. Lord Advocate Hope’s Bill is lost in the House of Lords in 1803. 94-95

The Light-house Board consults Mr Rennie, who visits the Rock with Mr Hamilton, and the Writer. The Commissioners take the sense of certain Ports relative to the measure. Reports of the Traders in Leith and Berwick. Resolution of the Board to apply again to Parliament. 94-98

Lord Advocate Erskine’s Bill 1806. Mr Hamilton and the Writer go to London on this business. Loan from Government doubtful. Board of Trade favourable to the Loan. Memorial to the Board of Trade. Sir Joseph Banks’s exertions. Bill read first and second times. Report brought up by Sir John Sinclair. Report of the Committee. Bill meets with some opposition at the third reading, but is passed. 100-105

CHAP. III.--1807.

FLOATING-LIGHT SHIP.--COMMENCEMENT OF THE OPERATIONS ON THE ROCK.--ERECTION OF THE BEACON-HOUSE, AND PROGRESS OF THE WORKS.

The Act provides for the mooring of a Floating-Light. Fishing Dogger purchased, fitted out and moored, under the direction of a Committee of the Trinity-House of Leith, and named the Pharos. Peculiar construction of her Lanterns and Moorings. She sails for her station. A Committee from Arbroath joins the party at the Isle of May. Is anchored in a temporary birth. Her moorings unexpectedly slip over-board, and are recovered with much difficulty. Description of the Pharos. 107-114

Commencement of the Operations at the Rock. Sloop Smeaton. Positions of the Beacon and Light-house fixed upon. First trip of the Artificers to the Rock on the 7th August. Rate of Wages. Letter from Aberdeen Masons. Lines from Dibdin. 115-120

Erection of the Beacon-House. Work commenced 18th August. Method of fixing iron-bats into the Rock. Landing-master’s duty. Indications of the state of the Weather. Dangerous situation of the Rock in Foggy weather. Artificers amuse themselves with fishing while the Rock is under water. The fixing of the Smith’s Forge completed. Valuable services of the Smiths on the Bell Rock. Much wanted at the Edystone. The Seals desert the Rock. 120-126

Hampered state of the Artificers on ship-board. Inconveniencies of the Pharos as a Tender. Difficulty of getting on board. Artificers become expert rowers. Their rations of Provisions. “Saturday-Night at Sea.” 127-130

Reasons for continuing the works upon the Rock during part of Sundays. Preparations for having Prayers on deck. Prayer composed by the Reverend Dr A. Brunton. Some of the Artificers decline working on Sunday. Additional Pay for Sunday’s work. 131-135

Artificers work knee-deep in water during neap-tides. Operations at the Rock entirely confined to the Beacon. Description of the operation of boring holes in the Rock. Difficult situation of the Smiths. 135-137

Wind-Gauge much wanted, to afford a better nomenclature to Seamen. Difficult passage with the boats from the Rock to the Tender. Life-Buoy streamed on this occasion. A Tender is ordered exclusively for the service of the Rock. Some of the Artificers apply for leave ashore. Landing made upon the Rock after a gale. 138-141

Method of fixing the great iron-stanchions into the Rock. Longest day’s work hitherto had upon it. Smeaton brings off a cargo of stones for making the experiment of landing them. Various methods suggested for this critical operation. Stones first landed on the Rock. Mode originally adopted for attaching the Stone-lighters to their moorings. Smeaton breaks adrift. Perilous situation of those on the Rock. Pilot-boat fortunately comes to their relief. The Boats have a rough passage to the Floating-light. The Smeaton bears away for Arbroath. Indispensable utility of the Beacon-house. Eighteen of the Artificers decline embarking for the Rock. The boats, nevertheless, proceed with the remaining eight. Captain Pool’s account of the drifting of the Smeaton, 142-152

The comparative level of the site of the Building ascertained. Full complement of Buoys moored. Floating-light rides out a strong gale. State of the vessel. The Writer consults with the Officers of the ship relative to the probable effect of her breaking adrift. The gale takes off. Appearance of the Sea on the Rock. The Floating-light breaks adrift. Her cables supposed to have been cut by a piece of wreck. Difficulty of managing this vessel. She is anchored and moored in a new station. Her Light is first exhibited on the 15th of September 1807. 153-164

Light-house Yacht for a time becomes the Tender at the Rock. Artificers agree to continue on board of her beyond the term of their engagement. An accident happens to one of the Boats. 164-165

The Smeaton arrives at the Rock, 18th September, with the Beams of the Beacon-house. Preparations made, and four of the principal ones erected. Method of raising them, and fixing the great Iron-Stanchions. Seven hours’ work upon the Rock in one ebb-tide. The remaining two principal, and four of the supporting beams, erected. 166-171

The Boats have some difficulty in leaving the Rock. Shipping dispersed in a gale. Land again after an absence of four days. Smith’s Forge removed from the Rock to the Beacon. Writer lands at Arbroath, after having been four weeks afloat. 172-174

The vessels are again separated in a gale. A landing effected at the Rock. State of the Beacon. Working hours extended. Beacon-works finished for the season. Mr John Rennie, and his son Mr George, visit the Rock. Number of days during which the Artificers were at work. 175-180

Progress of Operations in the Work-yard. Writer visits the Rock 22d November. State of the Beacon. Professor Playfair’s observations about the unlocking of Screws. State of the Floating-light. 181-188

CHAP. IV.--1808.

SHIPPING.--IMPLEMENTS.--BUILDING MATERIALS; AND PROGRESS OF THE WORKS.

Praam-boats built with a water-tight ceiling or lining. Method of mooring the Praam-boats. Attending boats, one of which is fitted up as a Life-boat. 187-188

Railways, Waggons, Sheer-crane, Moveable-beam-crane, Sling-cart, Carpenters’ Jack, Lewis-bat, Moulds, Coffer-dam, Pumps, Winch-machine. 189-196

Mineralogy of eastern coast. Report of Messrs Rennie and Stevenson, about Stone. The use of Granite resolved upon. Mortar of the Ancients. Attention of the Moderns to this subject. Mortar of the Edystone and Bell Rock, Lime, Pozzolano, Sand, Water, Cement. Oaken trenails, and Wedges. 196-204

The Writer visits the Rock 30th March. Floating-light’s crew. Light comparatively feeble. Landing at the Rock difficult. State of the Beacon. Propriety of converting it into a Barrack. Bread and Water chest. Advantages of the Beacon to Shipping. 205-208

Impress-service affects the Operations. Protection-Medal and Descriptive Ticket. Light-house Yacht on the station as a Tender. Preparatory works. Use of Granite restricted to lower courses of the building. Use of Sandstone extended. Mr Skene’s contract for supplying Granite. 209-212

The Sir Joseph Banks Schooner takes her station as Tender at the Rock. The Writer begins the operations of the season 25th May. State of the Foundation-pit. Difficult landing. It is found necessary to excavate the Rock further, to a greater depth. Artificers much afflicted with sea-sickness. Misunderstanding about their Pay. Sailors men of all-works, 212-218

Mortar Gallery fitted up. Smeaton ballasted from the Bell Rock. Fish caught in great abundance. 218-219

First entire course completed in the hewing, and laid on the platform in the Work-yard at Arbroath, on the 4th June. Its cubical contents. Certainty of commencing the building operations this season. Arrangements with the artificers. How employed. Interesting appearance of the Rock. They remain there all day. Tender bears away for Leith Roads. The work is continued on the Rock till midnight. Its appearance. Artificers backward in landing, owing to the appearance of the weather. 220-226

First entire course of the building removed from the platform, to be shipped for the Rock, 14th June. Trial of the Landing apparatus. Fifty Artificers land. Small ruble-walls built instead of coffer-dam. Advantages of a Bell as a signal in foggy weather. Force of the Sea upon the Rock. Artificers sail for Arbroath. Pay and premiums of the Artificers this month. They embark again for the Rock on the return of Spring-tides. How employed. 227-235

Foundation-stone prepared, landed at high-water. Laid 10th July, with masonic ceremony. 235-237

Price of Granite advanced. A raft of Timber goes adrift. State of things at night on extinguishing the torches at the Rock. First or foundation course, consisting of 18 stones, finished 26th July. Force of habit exemplified in landing on the Rock. Cargo of the first entire course landed 28th July. The Smeaton makes a second trip in twenty hours. 4 stones are laid. Advantage of cranes compared with sheer-poles. Mr Smeaton’s plan in the use of trenails and wedges followed. 239-244

A party of gentlemen have a narrow escape at the Rock. First entire course completed 12th August. One of the artificers disabled in the work-yard at Arbroath. He receives an annuity. Granite stones much wanted for the work. Second entire course completed. Pumping of water discontinued at the Rock 10th September. One of the artificers, by an accidental bruise, loses a finger. Progress of the works stopped for want of Granite. The Building brought to a level with the higher parts of the Rock. 244-249

Great difficulty of landing. Two stones are loosened by the force of the Sea. Praam-boats ride out a gale with great ease. 31 stones laid in 6½ hours. One of the boats cannot be got out of the eastern-creek. 15 stones laid. Weather very boisterous. Engineer’s Clerk most active. 250-253

Unfortunate loss of James Scott, a sailor. His mother gets a small annuity. 17 stones laid. Building closed for the season 21st September. Summary of Operations. Shipping dispersed in a gale. State of things at the Rock after the gale. The Writer sails on his annual trip to the Northern Light-houses. Visits the Bell Rock on his return. Arrangements for the Winter months. 253-256

CHAP. V.--1809.

PROGRESS OF THE WORKS.

Railways injured. Bracing-chains unlocked. Proofs of strong currents in the Sea. Travellers or Drift-stones found upon the Rock. Progress of works in the Yard at Arbroath. Exertions in the Quarries. Captain Calder’s letter to Mr Stevenson. Drift-stones removed. Joisting of platform lifted. A vessel in danger of being wrecked at the Rock. Cast-iron anchors. 257-262

Purchase of sloop Patriot. Floating-Light encounters heavy Seas. 12th course completed by the stone-cutters. Employment of Shipping. Patriot condemned. Opinion of Mr Solicitor-General Boyle. Two Praam-boats launched. Floating-light under the charge of Mr John Reid. Two sets of moorings laid down. Tender slips her moorings. Other three sets of moorings are laid down. 263-266

Artificers cannot land. The sailors account for the unsettled state of the weather. The Writer visits the Rock 1st May. Some timber is landed. Tender in danger of drifting upon the Rock. Joiners and millwrights get high premiums. Works make rapid progress. One of the floating-buoys gets water-logged. Great exertions made to complete the circular reach of the railway laid round the Building. Attempt made to erect a crane. 266-271

The Smeaton sails for the Rock with the first cargo of stones this season. Floating-Light’s moorings examined. State of her moorings. Plants and Animals observed on the building. Builders commence operations 27th May. Lay 5 stones. Tender rides out a hard gale. Apparatus on the Rock, and state of the Sea, viewed from a boat at a distance. Landing very difficult. State of the Weather. 272-277

Zeal of the Writer’s Assistants. Eleven Artificers left upon the Beacon. They encounter a severe gale. The Tender at this time is very uncomfortable. Artificers relieved. Mr P. Logan’s account of the Beacon during the gale. James Glen’s exertions. State of matters at the Rock after the gale. Tender obliged to leave her station. Progress of the works at Arbroath. Patriot slips her moorings. Artificers divided into squads. Shipping belonging to the Light-house service. Building goes on, laying at the rate of from 12 to 20 blocks per day. Great exertions made to supply materials. 276-284

Artificers are unavoidably left all night upon the Beacon. Smeaton and Patriot slip their moorings. Remarkable breach of the Sea upon the Rock. 3 stones are in danger of being washed away. Great waste of mortar. 57 stones are laid in one day. Cooking commenced on the Beacon 24th June. Situation of mortar-makers and smiths upon the Beacon. Rope-ladder extended between the Beacon and Building. Work stopped by a simple mistake. 66 stones landed, and 38 laid on the 27th of June. The work can now be continued after the Rock is overflowed by the tide. 284-290

One of the artificers meets with a severe accident, of which, however, he recovers. Have 10 hours’ work to-day, and lay 59 stones. Writer visits the Carr Rock, with a view to the erection of a Beacon. Joiners, at their own desire, are now left on the Beacon. Considered a favourable omen for the inhabitation of the Light-house. 290-294

Tide for the first time does not overflow the building, 8th July. Number of joiners reduced. Balance-crane begun to be made. Tenth course completed. Building at the rate of 29 to 52 stones per day. The stone-lighters not loaded at Arbroath on Sundays, 294-298

William Walker, accidentally killed at Arbroath. His widow receives an annuity. One of the artificers remains alone on the Beacon. Artificers take possession of it, along with Peter Fortune. His character. The Praam-boats cannot approach the Rock. 298-300

An embargo is laid on shipping throughout the Kingdom. Mr Sheriff DUFF’S exertions to get the Light-house shipping relieved. Operations at the Rock while the vessels are detained in port. The embargo is taken off the Light-house shipping. The propriety of stopping the Bell Rock vessels doubted. 78 stones landed, and 40 built, on the 1st August. Twenty-four artificers inhabit the Beacon-house. Mr Sheriff DUFF visits the Rock. Building proceeds at the rate of from 22 to 23 stones per day. The Fly of Bridport narrowly escapes shipwreck on the Bell Rock. Mr Sheriff HAMILTON visits the Rock. Additional supports for the Beacon-house landed. Sheer-crane broken. Some of the artificers get alarmed, and leave the Beacon. Effects of the late gale. 300-306

The Writer takes possession of his cabin on the Beacon 15th August. 52 stones landed, and eight built. One of the boats of the Floating-light loses her way in thick weather. An entire course of the building is laid in one day. Prayers read for the first time in the Beacon-house. The Smeaton arrives with the last cargo of stones for the solid part of the Building. Building operations for the season concluded, 25th August. Notice of the very proper conduct of the artificers. Floating-light breaks adrift. Probable height of the waves of the sea in free space. Inducements for stopping the building at this early period of the season. The Tender continues on the station, and the artificers occupy the Beacon-house for a time. Experience bad weather. 306-311

The Writer makes a trip to see the distinguishing-light at Flamborough-head in Yorkshire. Is overtaken with a gale, which he describes. Great want of a Public Harbour on the eastern coast of England. Progress of this gale traced from Shetland to Yarmouth Roads. Mr B. MILLS of Bridlington, probably the first who suggested Distinguishing-lights with red colour. 311-313

The Writer sails for the Northern Lights. State of the works when closed for the season. Stool or prop for a crane upon the Rock demolished in a gale of wind. Artificers visit the Rock. Large Buoy has drifted and Floating-light has had bad weather. 313-315

CHAP. VI.--1810.

PROGRESS AND COMPLETION OF THE WORKS.

The Tender visits the Rock and Floating-light, 5th January. The Artificers cannot land again until the 11th March. Beacon rendered very secure. Landing extremely precarious in winter. 317-319

Retrospective view of the works. Mylnefield and Craigleith quarries. Practical inferences about concluding the works. Timber Gangway or Bridge. Operations commence for the season. Bridge erected at the Rock. One of the artificers gets himself hurt. 320-324

Writer proceeds to the Rock to begin the building operations, 1st May. Praam-boats ride easily. State of the Building, Beacon and Timber-bridge. Balance-crane landed upon the Rock. Position of the entrance-door. Artificers take possession of the Beacon for the working season. 324-329

The Smeaton arrives with the first cargo of stones for the season. No communication with the Rock, 12th May. Balance-crane ready for use. Theory of Sea and Land breezes. Smeaton slips her moorings, and is driven up to Leith. 329-331

Patriot sent to Mylnefield quarry for the last cargo of stones to be carried to Arbroath for the Light-house, 17th May. State of the lower part of the Beacon, from the effects of a marine insect. 23 blocks of stone landed, and raised with the new tackle. One of the stones in danger from the breaking of a bolt. The Smeaton makes rapid trips from Arbroath to the Rock with materials. Prayers read for the first time on the Building. Exertions of Landing-master’s crew. 35th course completed. Arrangements for the conduct of the works, and safety of the Beacon. Balance-crane shaft unfortunately breaks. 332-336

The Writer is welcomed in at the door of the Light-house, 26th May. Fixtures of the Hinges of the Door and Windows. Great expedition of the Shipping with the Materials. Patriot makes one trip in 33 hours. 36th course laid. King’s Birth-day observed, 4th June. 336-339

Stair-case of the Light-house completed, 5th June. Progress of works at Edinburgh. Artificers liable to accident. Boat and Life Buoy provided for the Beacon. Trenailing of the stones of the building discontinued. Number of persons inhabiting the Beacon. Fitting of the window-hinges tedious. Comforts of good weather. Balance-crane shifted. 340-342

Moveable beam-crane erected on Western Wharf. 2 stones upset by the force of the sea. A praam-boat is sent from the Rock without delivering her cargo. Floor of the Lightroom-store laid, 13th June. Mr John Reid gets leave on shore, after having been about three months afloat. 341-344

First letter written from the Bell Rock Light-house. Its floors, and those of the Edystone described. 31 persons lodged in the Beacon. Pay and premiums of the artificers at the Rock. Seamen find one of the lost sets of moorings. Experiment of collecting Gas from Fishes. Cause of ground swells. 344-347

Landing-master’s dress, and activity of his crew. Want of the Western Wharf seriously felt. Operation of shifting the Balance-crane. Western Wharf finished, 17th June. Remarkable state of the sea at the Rock. Landing-master’s crew have now more leisure. Disagreeable state of the weather. Responsible situation of the principal workmen. 347-352

Carpenter of Floating-light leaves the service. Patriot makes a trip to and from Arbroath in 24 hours. Attempts made to land stones at high water with the bridge apparatus. Process of landing stones. Seamen become discontented. The Writer’s correspondence on this occasion. He goes on board of the Tender. Dismisses two of the seamen. 352-357

Progress of the works at Arbroath. 62d course built at the Rock. The artificers are wetted by the sea on the top of the walls. Mr John Reid’s report regarding the Floating-light. Narrow escape of William Kennedy, one of the masons. 357-361

Writer describes his cabin. The distressing case of George Dall, an impressed seaman. Magistrates of Arbroath visit the Rock. Number of artificers reduced to 22. Narrow escape of the Smeaton at the Bell Rock. Advantage of alarm-bells. Artificers in the Beacon-house greatly alarmed. 362-365

Progress of the Light-room works. Mrs Dixon, the late Mr Smeaton’s daughter, visits the Bell Rock works at Edinburgh. Mr D. Logan joins the works at the Rock. The Patriot is 7 days in being cleared of a cargo. Progress of raising the stones to the top of the Light-house, 365-369

Last cargo of stones at Arbroath shipped for the Rock, 9th July. Library floor laid. Ring-bar-course laid. The Dome-course occupies much time in building. 369-372

Landing-master’s crew reduced in number. Patriot driven from the Rock. Ceremony observed at loading the last stone at Leith. Many strangers visit the works in their present state. Difficulty of raising and laying the stones of the cornice. 84th course completed. Eight stones of Balcony course laid. This course completed 27th July. Ceremony at landing the last stone. 372-377

Machinery partly dismantled, 31st July. Foot of Balance-crane taken down. The Earl of Kellie, and Mr Sheriff Monypenny, land at the Rock. Centre-stone of floor laid 3d August. Artificers leave the Rock. The Writer meets with his Assistants at Arbroath. 377-379

Plans arranged for building the Houses at Arbroath for the families of the Light-keepers. The duty on stone charged upon these buildings. Three years of the unexpired lease of the work-yard given up. Base-line measured on the Sands of Barry. Trigonometrical Survey of Great Britain alluded to. 379-383

Artificers return to the Rock. Smeaton obliged to leave her station. Mortar gallery completely broken up by the sea. The Tender returns to the Rock. The Smith’s anvil and bellows washed off the Beacon. 383-386

Light-room sash-frames landed 23d August. Captain Wilson is accidentally hurt by one of them. Last stone of the Light-house laid, 2d September. 386-388

The Sir Joseph Banks Tender sails for Leith to be sold. Praam-boat drifts from the Rock. Artificers for the erection of the Light-room landed upon the Rock on the 14th of October. The Writer sails for the Northern Light-houses, accompanied by his friends Dr Barclay, Mr Oliphant, and Mr Neill. Progress of the Light-room works on his return. Unfortunate loss of Charles Henderson. Difficulty of procuring red-coloured glass. Ventilating or Finishing ball fixed upon the Cupola of the Light-room, 22d October. Light-room glazed. Light-house Yacht loses one of her boats off the Bell Rock. Great dexterity of the Landing-master and his crew. 388-394

State of the Railways, Beacon, and Light-house. Condition of the several apartments. House put under the charge of Mr Reid, principal Light-keeper, 30th September. Small boat washed off the Beacon. Sprays rise 104 feet upon the Light-house. Seas fly from stem to stern of the Floating-light. Mr Reid left with Peter Fortune in charge of the Light-house. They experience a severe gale. Their description of the effects of the Sea. 394-399

The Red-coloured Glass arrives at Edinburgh, 6th December. Reflecting apparatus shipped for the Rock, and landed on the 15th. The Light is advertised to the Public on the 17th. List of Newspapers in which the advertisement is inserted. The Light-keepers are left in possession of the House, together with Mr Forrest, general superintendant. 399-402

CHAP. VII.--1811.

ACCOUNT OF THE BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE, FROM ITS COMPLETION TILL THE YEAR 1823, INCLUDING STATEMENTS OF THE EXPENCE, QUANTITY OF MATERIALS AND WORKMANSHIP CONNECTED WITH THE WORK.

1811. The Light is exhibited on the 1st of February, when the Floating-Light is extinguished. A Storm occurs on the night that the House is lighted. Floating-Light puts into Anstruther, on her return voyage to Leith. State of her bottom. 404-405

The Light-keepers get their turns of liberty on shore. Letter from Mr Forrest to the writer. Effects of the Sea on the building. State of the Railways and Wharfs. Remarkable force of the Sea in lifting a large piece of lead. Direction of the Seas which have the greatest effect upon the Light-house. Comfortable state of the building. Qualifications of the Light-keepers. Mr Forrest leaves them in full possession of the house. 406-410

Progress of Ulterior works. Lord Boyle and a party land at the Rock. Boats suitable for landing there. Bruce’s “two-half Boat.” Light-house stove takes fire. Sprays rise to the height of the Light-room. Advantage of double windows. 411-413

1812. Light-house excites much interest. Sir William Rae and Mr Duff, visit the Rock. The Beacon is taken down, and removed from the Rock. Mode of securing timber against the Oniscus insect. Light-house encounters another gale. Remarkable shock of the Sea. Professor Robison’s opinion on this subject. State of the Sea from which the Frontispiece is delineated. It overruns the Rock at low-water. Mode in which the Light is attended. 414-416

1813. Establishment of the Light-keepers at Arbroath completed. Signals observed at the Rock. Thunder-rod. Method of fixing it. 417-418

1814. A party of the Commissioners, with Sir Walter Scott, visit the Light-house. 419

1815. Permanent Railways begun to be fitted up. Lord President Hope visits the Rock. 419

1816. Pharos Tender built. Exterior of Light-house painted. 419

1818. Fuci disappear from the Rock. 420

1819. Permanent Railways completed. Improved Access to the Light-house by a brazen ladder. Sprays rise 105 feet. A piece of the highest part of the rock carried away by the violence of the Sea. 421

1820. Improvements on the Light-house. Inner door of brass, &c. 421

1821. A new Machine for taking up the Stores. Mr John Reid retires from the Light-house service on half-pay. 421

1822. Light-house Works and Model completed. Design for Wolf Rock. 422

1823. Severe Storm. Carrier-pigeons sent from the Rock. Expence of the Work. Cubic contents of the Materials. 423

Spotted a typo or a problem in this chapter? Tell us

Appendix

Page No I. Additional Light-houses proposed on the Coast. Light-Keepers’ Instructions. Rations of Provisions at the Bell Rock. Monthly, and Ship-wreck Returns. 425-437

II. Poem on Sir Ralph the Rover, extracted from Mr Southey’s Works. 438

III. Abstract Account of Light-house Duties. 439

IV. Reports relative to the Bell Rock Light-house, by Mr Rennie, and the Writer. 440-468

V. Remarks relative to the Ground-Swells of the Sea. 469-470

VI. Schedules of Materials and Workmanship. 471-474

VII. Abstract Account of Expence. Average Price Provisions. 475-483

DESCRIPTION OF PLATES.

Plate I. Inchkeith Light-house. 487

II. Carr Rock Beacon. 487-489

III. Chart of Great Britain, with Sections of the Depths of the Sea. 490

IV. Chart, shewing the position of the Bell Rock, in relation to the opposite Shores. 490

V. Chart, shewing the Position of the Rock, in relation to the Shipping. 491

VI. Plan of the Rock, shewing the Position of the Light-house. 492-499

VII. Original Designs for the Light-house. 499-501

VIII. Beacon House. 501-503

XI. Progress of the Works. 503-505

X. Implement and Apparatus connected with the Work. 505-508

XI. Sheer-crane, Praam-boat discharging, &c. 508-510

XII. Work-yard, Light-Keepers’ Houses at Arbroath. 511

XIII. Plan of the several Courses of the Masonry of the Light-house. 511-515

XIV. Moveable Beam Crane. 515-517

XV. Foundation-Pit of the Light-house. 518

XVI. Elevation and Section of the Light-house. 518-519

XVII. Balance-Crane. 520-522

XVIII. General View of the Works. (See page 424.) 520-523

XIX. Door and Window Hinges, and Thunder-rod. 523-525

XX. Balcony and Light-Room. 526-529

XXI. Frontispiece explained. (See Title-page.) 529

XXII. Vignette on Second Title-page. (See page 62.) 530

XXIII. Design for a Light-house, suggested on visiting the Wolf Rock, 530-533

Spotted a typo or a problem in this chapter? Tell us

Introduction

ACCOUNT OF THE INSTITUTION OF THE BOARD OF COMMISSIONERS AND OF THE PROGRESS MADE IN THE ERECTION OF THE NORTHERN LIGHT-HOUSES.

[Sidenote: Institution of Board of Northern Light-houses.]

Among the Nations of Europe, the SCOTS have always been allowed to possess a considerable share of maritime enterprise. The local situation and circumstances of Scotland necessarily directed the genius of its people to the pursuit of nautical affairs. Their voyages to the Hanseatic Towns, and to all the commercial countries of Europe, were naturally longer than those of their more southern neighbours of England, who were separated from the Continent only by a narrow channel, which must have rendered their communication in the rude periods of maritime discovery comparatively easy. The voyages of the Scots even to the most contiguous parts of France and the Low Countries were upwards of 140 leagues, along a coast intersected by innumerable shoals; and, in the time of war, lay so open to the attacks of English ships, that, in prosecuting them, the navigators were obliged to abandon the usual track, and hold a course far from the shelter of the land, exposed to all the dangers of the seas and the vicissitudes of the weather.

In those early periods of our national history, when Britain was divided into two separate and independent states, jealous of each other, it became necessary for Scotland to form alliances with foreign powers, when distant voyages, and much intercourse by sea was indispensable. The frequent struggles with the marauding powers of the North, obliged her to keep a more considerable navy than would otherwise have been required for the protection of her commerce. The connection likewise, with Denmark and Norway, through the marriage of James III. with Margaret daughter of Christian I., in 1469, was attended with the final annexation of the Orkney and Shetland Islands to the Crown of Scotland;--circumstances which naturally extended her foreign traffic, and completely united the dominion and the navigation of the whole line of her coast.

It was reserved, however, for the influence and happy effects of the Union of the Crowns and Kingdoms of England, Scotland and Ireland, to draw forth the full energies of these countries. During the long and glorious reign of his late Majesty, the name and character of the United Kingdom have been highly advanced in arms, while her works of industry, have not only flourished at home, but been extended to the remotest parts of the world.

[Sidenote: Improvement of the Highlands.]

About the middle of the last or eighteenth century, the true value of the Highlands of Scotland, and the best interests of these extensive districts, may be said for the first time to have been understood. Since that period, the object of the Government has been more especially directed to the industry of the inhabitants, in giving every encouragement and facility to the establishment of fisheries, towns and harbours, along the shores of the north and west of Scotland; and in opening interior communications, by the introduction of a system of roads, the formation of an extensive inland navigation, and the execution of other national works.

[Sidenote: Extension of Trade.]

Soon after the internal disturbances which marked the year 1745, the trade on the coast of Scotland with sloops or vessels of small tonnage, became considerable, in consequence of the bounties and encouragement given to the extension of the British fisheries. About this time also, the important manufacture of kelp or marine alkali, from certain species of fuci abundant on the northern and western shores of Scotland, was introduced. Besides carrying the kelp to market, a considerable number of small vessels was employed in conveying salt and other articles required for the fisheries,--in the Irish coasting trade,--in carrying slates from Argyleshire,--and in transporting the rich iron-ore of Cumberland to the foundries on the eastern shores of the kingdom. A trade was likewise carried on from the Firth of Clyde, Liverpool, and the west of England in general, and north of Ireland, with Norway, the Baltic, and the other States in the north of Europe, in timber, iron, tar and other commodities; and in exchange for these were received coal, salt, and the various exports of Britain. These all became sources of commerce, which created a demand for shipping, and promoted numerous voyages along the northern and western coasts of Scotland, which now became more known and frequented. But such was the length and peril of a voyage round the coast of Scotland, by the Orkneys and Western Islands, without the aid of light-houses, or even of correct charts, that the traffic along these shores was still comparatively small.

[Sidenote: Inland Navigation.]

It was to remove these difficulties in some measure, that the formation of a navigable canal between the Friths of Forth and Clyde, had long been in agitation; and in the year 1767, the measure was brought forward in the House of Commons. This canal, upon a voyage from the Forth to the Clyde, is calculated to save no less than about 628 miles; the distance, by the inland navigation being reduced to about 35 miles. This work having been carried into execution, was opened from sea to sea in 1790, forming an important step in the progressive intercourse by water-carriage, a system which has since been so remarkably extended to all parts of the united kingdom. But the usefulness of the Forth and Clyde Canal was greatly marred by an unfortunate error in its construction, its depth having been limited to 9 feet, and its consequent incapacity for carrying sea-borne ships of large burden; so that the inconveniences of a circuitous voyage round Scotland still remains for all the larger classes of shipping. In the formation of the Caledonian Canal, the error of the Forth and Clyde navigation has been avoided; this noble work being capable of receiving ships which draw 21 feet of water.

[Sidenote: Voyage of James V. in 1540.]

Notwithstanding these great improvements, it was still found necessary, from the increasing state of trade, to give further facilities to the navigation of the northern shores, by the Orkney and Western Islands. The first step taken towards this object, was to procure accurate surveys of the coast; for it is a curious fact, deserving of notice, that the little journal and chart of the enterprising voyage of James V., with many of the Scottish Nobles, from the Firth of Forth to the Solway Firth , by the Orkneys, was long consulted as the only guide for these seas. This voyage, so honourable to the naval annals of Scotland, was undertaken by James with twelve ships in the year 1540, under the direction of Alexander Lindsay, the most skilful pilot of his time.

[Sidenote: Original Charts.]

At the request of the Philosophical Society (now the Royal Society) of Edinburgh, the Rev. Alex. Bryce of Kirknewton, about the year 1740, made a geometrical survey of the North-west coast of Scotland, including the shores of Caithness and Sutherland. This paved the way for the more extensive labours of Mr Murdoch Mackenzie, who, after finishing his excellent charts of the Orkney Islands in the year 1750, was employed by Government in a survey of the whole of the Western Highlands and Islands, from Cape Wrath in Sutherlandshire to the Mull of Kintyre. But long after the publication of these valuable charts, the navigation of the sounds and sheltered seas of this district was seldom ventured upon by the larger class of shipping employed in foreign trade. The danger of falling in prematurely with the land during the night, and the rapidity of the tides on these shores, induced the mariner to keep along the extreme points and headlands of the coast, holding his course even to the northward of Orkney and Shetland, and to the westward of the Lewis Isles by St Kilda, exposed to the heavy seas of the Atlantic Ocean. In this way, much hazard to shipping, and loss of time, were incurred; and when overtaken with gales of wind, such vessels were unable to avail themselves of the numerous bays and anchorages of the Highlands;--considerations of much importance to heavy laden ships, but especially to the smaller classes of coasting and fishing vessels. It therefore appeared, that nothing but the erection of Lighthouses, by which the mariner might identify the land under night, would render this navigation at all a safe one.

[Sidenote: Proposition of a Light-house Board.]

Representations had often been made by shipmasters to their owners, of the difficulties and dangers encountered in sailing along the coast of Scotland. The establishment of a Light-house Board, and the erection of Light-houses on our Northern Shores, became the topic of conversation among mercantile men; and the subject was at length brought forward at the meeting of the Convention of the Royal Boroughs of Scotland, in the year 1784, by the late Mr DEMPSTER of Dunnichen, then Provost of Forfar, and Member of Parliament, as worthy of the notice of the Legislature.

[Sidenote: Passing of the Original Act, 1786.]

A bill was accordingly framed by the late Mr JOHN GRAY, writer to the Signet, agent for the Royal Boroughs, which was brought into Parliament by Mr Dempster, in the session of 1786. By this act, the 26th Geo. III. chap. 101., a Board was appointed, for the erection of Light-houses on the coast of Scotland; the preamble stating that “it would conduce greatly to the security of navigation and the fisheries, if four lighthouses were erected in the northern parts of Great Britain,” viz. one on Kinnaird Head, in Aberdeenshire; one on the Orkney Islands; one on the Harris Isles, and one at the Mull of Kintyre, in Argyleshire; for which a duty of one penny per register ton, for British, and twopence per ton upon foreign ships, should be paid by every ship or decked vessel which should pass one or all of these lights.

[Sidenote: Commissioners ex Officio.]

The Commissioners appointed for putting this act in execution, are, “His Majesty’s Advocate and Solicitor-General for Scotland; the Lord Provost and First Bailie of Edinburgh; the Lord Provost and First Bailie of Glasgow; the Provosts of Aberdeen, Inverness and Campbeltown; the Sheriffs of the Counties of Edinburgh, Lanark, Renfrew, Bute, Argyle, Inverness, Ross, Orkney, Caithness, and Aberdeen;” and to these have since been added, the Sheriffs of the Counties of Ayr, Fife, Forfar, and Wigton, agreeably to a clause which authorises the Commissioners to add to their number.

[Sidenote: First Meeting of the Board.]

The first meeting of the Commissioners was held at Edinburgh on the 1st day of August 1786; and consisted of the following members:

His Majesty’s Solicitor-General, Robert Dundas of Arniston. The Lord Provost of Edinburgh, Sir James Hunter-Blair, Bart. The First Bailie of Edinburgh, James Dickson, Esq. The Sheriff of the County of Bute, Bannatyne Macleod, Esq. The Sheriff of the County of Aberdeen, Alexander Elphinston, Esq. The Sheriff of the County of Lanark, Sir William Honyman, Bart.

[Sidenote: Mode of raising Funds.]

The meeting having elected Sir James Hunter-Blair to be their Preses, and appointed Mr Gray to be their Secretary, deliberated upon the measures to be taken for giving effect to the statute. The first object of the Board was to borrow the sum of L. 1200, which they were authorised to raise. As all the Commissioners were acting ex officio, it was suggested, that the most convenient method of arranging the security for the funds to be borrowed, would be for the Magistrates of the five boroughs mentioned in the act to become security, upon assignment of the duties leviable for the lights,--a mode which was accordingly adopted.

[Sidenote: Progress of Northern Light-houses.]

[Sidenote: Information about Light-houses.]

The preses informed the meeting, that he had corresponded with persons the most likely to afford information relative to the best construction of Light-houses, and had received answers from Liverpool to a variety of queries regarding Light-houses, where the use of coal-fires had been laid aside, and where oil lights, with reflectors, had been introduced: That he had also got various plans and estimates for Light-houses lighted with oil: That the Chamber of Commerce of Edinburgh had furnished a plan of the Light-house on the Island of May, in the Firth of Forth, and also a description of the light on the Island of Cumbraes, in the Firth of Clyde, both of which were then open coal-fires: In particular, that he had received from the late Mr THOMAS SMITH of Edinburgh, plans and observations on the construction of Light-houses with Lamps and Reflectors; which having been ultimately approved of, Mr Smith was nominated Engineer to the Board. After appointing a Committee for preparing matters for a general meeting, they adjourned till the 23d of January 1787.

[Sidenote: Transactions of 1787.]

In pursuance of the act of Parliament, the Commissioners gave directions that a correspondence should be opened with the several proprietors of the land where the four original Light-houses were specified to be erected. An answer was immediately received from Mr Traill of Westness in Orkney, requesting the Board’s free acceptance of the ground necessary for erecting the Light-house proposed for the Northern Isles of Orkney, on any part of his property. Application was made to the Duke of Argyle, as to the ground for the erection of a Light-house on the Mull of Kintyre; to Lord Saltoun, relative to the station of Kinnaird-Head, in Aberdeenshire; and to Mr Macleod of Harris, as to the site of a Light-house on Island Glass. Measures were also taken for obtaining fit persons to contract for erecting the necessary buildings, and for conducting the operations at the different stations.

Kinnaird Head.

[Sidenote: Kinnaird-Head Light-house.]

The result of the correspondence with Lord Saltoun, was the purchase of the old building of Kinnaird Castle from his Lordship, on which a lantern or light-room was erected. After encountering considerable difficulties in the outset of this establishment, the house was got ready for the exhibition of the light by the month of December 1787, and the following notice to mariners was officially given by the Secretary in the London Gazette, and in the Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Aberdeen newspapers.

“By order of the Commissioners appointed by Act of Parliament for erecting four Light-houses in the northern parts of Great Britain, a Light-house is now erected on Kinnaird Castle, at Kinnaird-Head, near Fraserburgh, in the county of Aberdeen, Lat. 57° 42´, and Long. 2° 19´ West of London, Cairnbulg from the Light-house bearing, by compass, S.E., distant 2 miles; and Trauphead W.NW., distant 9 miles. The lantern is 120 feet above the level of the sea at high-water, and will be seen from SE. to W.NW. and intermediate points of the compass on the north of these points. The lantern will be lighted on the night of the first day of December 1787, and every night thereafter, from the going away of day-light in the evening till the return of day-light in the morning.”

Mull of Kintyre.

[Sidenote: Mull of Kintyre Light-house.]

At the Mull of Kintyre, one of the most inaccessible and difficult of the Northern Light-house stations, the buildings were nearly prepared for the light-room by the month of November; but the season being too far advanced, and it appearing from Mr Smith’s report, that there would be some risk in conveying the apparatus to the light-house at this inclement season, the Commissioners resolved to delay the further progress of the work at Kintyre till the following spring.

[Sidenote: ~1788.~]

The operations at the Mull of Kintyre were recommenced in the month of April, but, owing chiefly to the inaccessible great difficulty that was experienced in transporting the building materials connected with the lantern or light-room, over the mountainous district of Kintyre, it was the month of October before the light could be announced for exhibition, when public advertisement was made of the lighting of the house to the following effect.

“The Mull of Kintyre Light-house is situated immediately above the rocks known to mariners by the name of The Merchants, in North Lat. 55° 17´, and Long. 5° 42´ west of London; the eastern entrance of the Sound of Isla, bearing from the Light-house by compass, N. by E., distant 33 miles; the Mull of Kinho in the Island of Isla N. NW., distant 25 miles; and the northern extremity of Rathlin Island, on the coast of Ireland, NW. ½ W. distant 13 miles; the Maiden Rocks S. by W. ½ W., distant 21 miles; and Copland Light-house S. by W. ½ W., distant 40 miles. The light-room is elevated 240 feet above the medium level of the sea, and will be seen from N. NE. to S. by W., and all intermediate points of the compass north of these points. The light will be exhibited on the 1st day of December 1788, and every night thereafter, from the going away of day-light in the evening till the return of day-light in the morning.”

[Sidenote: Light-house duty too small.]

In the progress of the works of the Northern Light-houses, it soon became evident, from the diminished state of the funds, that the light-house duty of 1d. per ton upon British vessels, and 2d. upon foreign bottoms, was too small. By the original act, also, this duty was only to be levied after the whole of the lights at the four stations had been exhibited to mariners; but the Board having found that it would be expedient to commence the collection of the duties so soon as two were lighted, resolved on applying to Parliament for a new act.

[Sidenote: Act of 1788.]

A bill was accordingly brought into the House of Commons by Sir Ilay Campbell, M. P., when Lord Advocate for Scotland, and ex officio one of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, which passed in the session of 1788, empowering the Commissioners to levy a duty of 1½d., or one halfpenny more per ton upon British ships, and 3d., or one penny per ton additional upon foreigners; and, in the mean time, to commence collecting half duties till the whole of the four light-houses mentioned in the former act were lighted, when the full duties were to become exigible. Already about L. 4000 had been expended on the light-houses of Kinnaird-Head and Kintyre. By this new act, however, the Commissioners being empowered to borrow a further sum of L. 3000, were not only enabled to forward the operations already commenced, but, with this additional duty, it was expected that they would soon be in a condition to answer the calls of the shipping interest for additional erections on the coast.

Island Glass.

[Sidenote: ~1789.~]

Considerable progress had been made in the course of the former season with the erection of the Light-house at Island Glass in Harris, which was finished and lighted on the 10th day of October 1789, the following being its specification:--The Point of Island Glass, one of the Harris Isles, is situated in North Lat. 57° 50´, and Long. 6° 33´ west of London. Ru-Ushiness bears from the light-house, per compass, E. NE. ½ E., distant 8 miles; northern extremity of Shiant Isles E., ½ S., southern extremity of ditto E. by S. ½ S., distant 11 miles; Skerne Rock SE., ½ E., distant 3 miles; Skergraidish Rock S. SE. ¼ E., distant 9 miles; Point of Trotternish in Sky S. SE. ¼ E., distant 16 miles; Point of Vaternish S. SW. ¼ W., distant 15 miles; Dunvegan-Head SW. ½ S., distant 20 miles; Point of Roudil, at the entrance of the Sound of Harris, W. by S., distant 14 miles. The light-room is elevated 70 feet above the medium level of the sea, and will be seen from E. NE. ½ E., from W. by S., and intermediate points of the compass south of these points.

[Sidenote: North Ronaldsay Light-house.]

While the works of Island Glass were proceeding, a light-house was also erected, and lighted 10th October 1789, on the island of North Ronaldsay, in Orkney; but, as the light at this station was afterwards removed to the neighbouring island of Sanday, it will fall more properly to be noticed in the form of a Tower or Beacon, into which the building was converted, after a Light-house had been established at the Start Point of Sanday.

Pladda.

[Sidenote: Application for Pladda Light-house.]

The erection of the four light-houses of Kinnaird Head, North Ronaldsay, Island Glass, and the Mull of Kintyre, completed the operations of the Northern Light-house Board, referred to in the original act of 1786; and at the time of passing that act, it was not foreseen that a greater number would be required on the coast of Scotland for a series of years. But the benefit of the lights which had already been erected, in affording much greater safety and facility to the mariner in those dangerous seas, became so apparent, that they were no sooner exhibited than applications from different quarters for new erections followed. Among these, a memorial was presented to the Commissioners by the Merchants’ House of Greenock, accompanied by a letter from the Chamber of Commerce of Glasgow, setting forth the advantages which the shipping of the Clyde would derive from the erection of a light-house upon the small island of Pladda, situated at the southern extremity of the island of Arran, and entrance of the Firth of Clyde. This memorial concluded by requesting, that the Commissioners would “take such measures as should to them seem most proper, for procuring an act of Parliament, in order to carry the erection of a light-house on the island of Pladda into execution as soon as possible.”

[Sidenote: Act of 1789.]

[Sidenote: Collectors appointed.]

An act was accordingly obtained, in the session of 1789, not only for the erection of Pladda Light-house, but for extending the powers of the Commissioners to the erection of such other light-houses on the coast of Scotland as to them should seem necessary, whenever the free produce of the duties of 1½d. and 3d. per ton respectively on British and foreign ships should enable the Board to do so. In consequence of the act of 1788, authorising the collection of half duties so soon as two of the four light-houses mentioned in the original act should be lighted, collectors at the different customhouses of all the ports of Great Britain were appointed to receive the Northern Light-house duty, and for their trouble they were to be paid at the rate of 10 per cent. upon the sums they should respectively receive: But the business being scarcely organized in 1789, and only half duties being exigible, the whole money collected in that year amounted but to L. 290:14:6, and even this small sum formed part of two years’ collection. From the smallness of the duties, and the extent of the operations which the Commissioners had now on hand, they were much pressed for the necessary funds, and but for the liberality of their bankers Sir William Forbes and Company, the operations of the Board must have been greatly hampered. Indeed, Sir James Hunter Blair, one of the partners of that house, when Lord Provost of Edinburgh, and ex officio a member of the Board, had been highly instrumental in forwarding the establishment of the Northern Light-houses; and it was, perhaps, from such adventitious circumstances, together with the economy of the measures originally pursued, that the progress of the Light-house works proceeded, without experiencing any interruption from want of funds.

[Sidenote: ~1790.~]

The light-house of Pladda was finished in the course of the year 1790, and lighted on the 1st day of October. As before noticed, it is situated in the Firth of Clyde, on the small island of Pladda, near the south-west point of the island of Arran, in North Lat. 55° 30´ and Long. 5° 4´ west of London; the entrance of Campbeltown Loch bearing, by compass, W.NW. ¼ N., distant 18 miles; Island of Sana W., distant 20 miles; Craig of Ailsa SW. by S., distant 15 miles; entrance to Loch Ryan S.SW., distant 25 miles; and the Heads of Ayr E.SE., distant 16 miles. The light-room is elevated above the medium level of the sea 70 feet; and the light is seen from NE. by E. to NW. by W. and intermediate points of the compass south of these points.

[Sidenote: ~1791.~]

[Sidenote: Distinguishing light at Pladda.]

In order to distinguish Pladda Light-house from the light upon the Promontory of Kintyre on the one hand, and that upon the island of Cumbrae, further up the Firth of Clyde, and also from the Copeland light on the Irish coast, it was found necessary, in the course of the year 1791, to erect a small Light-room, immediately under the principal light, that, by shewing two distinct lights at this station, the one 20 feet higher than the other, it might be distinguishable from those above alluded to. This small light-room being rather of a temporary construction, the Board have it in view to erect one upon a more efficient plan, when certain repairs which are in contemplation at Pladda shall be made.

[Sidenote: Annual supply and inspection of the Lights.]

The Northern Light-houses being situated in parts of the country remote and inaccessible, it became necessary to arrange some systematic and proper plan for managing the ordinary business of the Board, which, at this time, had only one stated meeting, held by act of Parliament in the month of July annually. A special meeting was accordingly convened by the Secretary, in the month of March 1791; at which there were present, the Lord Advocate of Scotland; the Lord Provost of Edinburgh; the Sheriff of Aberdeen; the Sheriff of Renfrew; and the Sheriff of Orkney, Mr Charles Hope, now Lord President of the Court of Session. This meeting having taken into consideration the proper mode of supplying the light-houses, and of attending to the conduct of the light-keepers, it was resolved, That the engineer should charter a vessel annually, to carry a full complement of stores and other necessaries for the use of the lights, and such artificers, implements and materials as might, from time to time, be found necessary for making repairs at the light-houses; and also, that the engineer should annually visit each light-house, and report upon the state and condition of the buildings, and upon the conduct of the respective light-keepers in keeping the lights, and in the management of the stores and appurtenances committed to their charge; with power to dismiss them for neglect of duty.

[Sidenote: Light-keepers’ Salary.]

The light-keepers already engaged in the service, had been verbally informed by the engineer, that they would be paid L. 30 of yearly salary; and this meeting having before it a range of salaries paid to light-keepers both in England and Scotland, varying from L. 20 to upwards of L. 70, it was resolved, That in ordinary situations, the salary of the light-keepers in the service of the Northern Light-houses should be L. 30 per annum, with a piece of garden-ground and pasture for a cow, and a sufficient quantity of fuel for the use of their families.

[Sidenote: First voyage of the Engineer.]

[Sidenote: Light-house keeper dismissed the service.]

In consequence of this arrangement, a vessel of about 100 tons burden was chartered and fitted out with stores and other necessaries for the use of the Northern Light-houses; and in the course of the summer of 1791, Mr Smith made his first annual visit by sea to the light-houses--the journeys of the engineer having hitherto been performed chiefly by land. On this voyage, every thing was reported to be in good order at the several stations, excepting at the Light-house of North Ronaldsay, which he found to be very improperly kept: it appeared also that the light-keeper at this station had been embezzling the stores committed to his charge. This person was formerly a ship-master, who, finding it difficult to get employment in the line of his profession, had been very improperly recommended to the attention of the Light-house Board. Under circumstances of such misconduct, the engineer immediately dismissed him from the service, and his conduct was further taken cognizance of by the Sheriff of the county.

[Sidenote: Economical plan of the early Light-houses.]

The business of the Light-houses was now so arranged, that matters went on in a very prosperous and successful manner. So well, indeed, had the plans and buildings of their engineer been considered, and made to meet the slender funds of the Board, that, with an expenditure of little more than L. 10,000, five lights had been exhibited upon the coast. Though these buildings were unavoidably very much circumscribed in their accommodations, and even temporary in their construction, yet the speedy exhibition of the lights was of great benefit to navigation, while the improving state of the light-house duties enabled the Commissioners to extend their influence along a greater range of coast; and the different buildings have since been enlarged and completed in a much more substantial manner, by applying the surplus funds to these purposes.

[Sidenote: ~1793.~]

[Sidenote: Application for additional light-houses.]

In the year 1793, the prosperous state of funds induced and enabled the Commissioners to attend to the applications of mariners for additional light-houses on the coast. In particular a letter, to be afterwards more fully noticed, was addressed to the Light-house Board by Admiral Sir Alexander Cochrane, then commanding his Majesty’s ship Hind upon the Leith station, setting forth the great benefit that would accrue to shipping, from the erection of a light-house upon the Bell Rock. Representations were likewise made at this time by the merchants of Liverpool, regarding the propriety of erecting a light-house upon the Skerries, situated in the middle of the Pentland Firth , which separates the Orkney Islands from the Mainland of Caithness. The object of a light here, was to open this Firth as a passage to shipping in general, and to enable the mariner to avoid a circuitous and dangerous voyage to the northward of the Orkney Islands.

[Sidenote: State of the Light-house funds.]

At this period, however, the Commissioners could not venture to undertake a work of such magnitude and difficulty, as the erection of a light-house upon the Bell Rock. The amount of the light-house duties at first was extremely limited; and though in a progressive state, yet, for 1789, as before stated, they only amounted to L. 249:14:6. For 1790, the sum was L. 1477:5:1; for 1791, it was L. 2736:9:2; for 1792, it rose to L. 3160:18:1. But in the year 1793, of which we are now treating, the duties rather declined, and they only netted L. 2868, 3s. 5d. The Commissioners were nevertheless enabled to pay off L. 4200, which, by the acts of 1786 and 1788, they had been empowered to borrow, and likewise to discharge the advances made by Sir William Forbes and Company; still leaving a balance of about L. 2000 of surplus duties in the hands of their treasurer. The funds being, therefore, still very limited, and only in a condition to enable the Board to erect a light-house of the ordinary construction, the erection of the light-house on the Pentland Skerries was resolved on; and the further consideration of the Bell Rock light-house reserved, until the funds should be in a more advanced state.

Pentland Skerries.

[Sidenote: Regarding the site of the Pentland Firth Light-house.]

Some difference of opinion arising among the gentlemen and merchants of Orkney, whether the light-house proposed for the Pentland Skerries should not rather be erected upon the island of Copinsha, situate about fifteen miles northward of the Portland Firth , the matter was referred to the opinion of the Association of Ship-owners of Liverpool, and to the Chambers of Commerce of Glasgow and Greenock, when these public bodies unanimously and strongly recommended the erection of the light-house on the Pentland Skerries, as the site best calculated for a direction to the Pentland Firth ; which was accordingly fixed upon by the Board. To mark this Light-house from the other lights upon the coast, it was necessary to make it a Distinguishing-light, which was effected by the erection of a higher and lower light-house tower, respectively 80 and 100 feet above the medium level of the sea, built at the distance of 60 feet asunder, and each having a light-room with reflectors, so as to show two distinct stationary lights, for as yet the Revolving-light had not been introduced upon this coast.

[Sidenote: ~1794.~]

[Sidenote: The author’s first voyage to the north.]

The works at the Pentland Skerries were begun early in the spring of 1794. The masonry was executed by builders of Orkney; and the materials having been prepared, were partly landed on these small islands in the course of the preceding summer. The Skerries consist of two uninhabited islands, with some contiguous sunken rocks. They lie exposed to the uninterrupted force of the waves of the North Sea, and to the rapid tides and currents of the Pentland Firth , and present many convincing proofs of the wasting state of the land, by the action of the sea. The works here had been so laid out, that the towers should be in readiness for the erection of the light-rooms by the month of August; and it was expected that the lights would be ready for exhibition in the month of October. The author, to whose superintendance the completing of these light-houses was to be entrusted, as his first work for the Board, sailed from Leith on this service on the 2d July 1794; and after touching at Kinnaird Head Light-house, he landed at the Pentland Skerries on the 11th of that month, and found the masonry of the two light-house towers in such a state of forwardness, as to be then nearly ready for the light-rooms. In the month of September, these works were completed, and the lights were exhibited on the 1st day of October 1794.

These lights are from oil, with reflectors, and may be described as erected on the largest of the Pentland Skerries, in Lat. 58° 43´ and Long. 3° 3´ west of London; the northmost or highest light-room being elevated 100 feet, and the lower light-room 80 feet above the medium level of the sea. The two light-rooms, relatively to each other, bear S. SW. and N. NE., distant 60 feet. The bearings, as taken from the highest light-room, by compass, are the western extremity of the Little Pentland Skerry S. by W., distant 1¼ mile; extremity of the foul ground off that Skerry SE., distant 1½ mile; Duncan’s Bay Head in Caithness; W. SW. distant 4½ miles; Noss Head SW. by W., distant 14 miles; northmost point of the Island of Stroma NW. by W., distant 6½ miles; south-western extremity of the Loather Rock on the Orkney shore N. by W., distant 3½ miles; Island of Copinsha NE. by E. ¼ E., distant 17 miles.

[Sidenote: Loss of the sloop Elizabeth.]

The author, having remained to complete the works at the Pentland Skerries, and to see the house lighted, sailed from Orkney on the 9th of October, in the sloop Elizabeth of Stromness. On the following day, the vessel got within three miles of Kinnaird Head Light-house, in Aberdeenshire; but the wind having suddenly shifted to the south-east, Mr Sinclair, the master, with much attention and kindness, landed the author, who continued his journey to Edinburgh by land. A very different fate, however, awaited his shipmates; for the Elizabeth having put back to Cromarty Roads, was afterwards driven to Orkney, and ultimately lost, when all on board perished.

[Sidenote: Mr Balfour and Mr Riddoch presented with pieces of Plate.]

In the affairs connected with the erection of light-houses in Orkney, Mr Balfour of Elwick, and Mr Riddoch, collector of the customs at Kirkwall, having respectively taken much friendly interest and trouble in the advancement of the Light-house works in the Orkney islands, the Commissioners of the Light-houses presented a small piece of plate to each of these gentlemen, with a suitable inscription, in testimony of the services they had thus rendered to the public.

[Sidenote: Act for Incorporating the Commissioners.]

Some inconveniency having been experienced in conducting the business of the Light-house Board, in consequence of its not being an incorporated body, and not having a common seal, particularly in the holding of stock and other property, in laying out and investing the surplus funds arising from the light-house duties, application was made to Parliament, and an act passed in 1798, 38th Geo. III. c. 57. erecting the Commissioners into a Board or Body-politic, by the name of “The Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses;” and under that title to have perpetual succession, and hold a common seal.

[Sidenote: Additional Works at the first erected Light-houses.]

After the completion of these two light-houses on the Pentland Skerries in 1794, a period of ten years elapsed before the erection of any additional light-house was undertaken on the coast of Scotland. This delay was rendered necessary, chiefly on account of the necessity of extending the accommodation of the light-keepers at the different stations,--in making landing places and roads,--enclosing grounds,--and, in short, putting the whole establishment of the light-houses into a more complete and finished state.

[Sidenote: Light-House proposed as a direction for Cromarty Firth .]

In the mean time, several propositions for new light-houses were brought under the notice of the Commissioners. In the year 1797, for example, the late Mr Dempster of Dunnichen proposed the erection of a light-house as a direction for the entrance of Cromarty Firth , one of the principal inlets for shipping on the eastern coast of Great Britain. Mr Dempster also suggested, in connection with this, that a Beacon should be erected, and a floating buoy moored, to point out the dangerous channel of Dornoch Firth , which is too often fatally mistaken for the entrance to Cromarty Firth . The proposition of a beacon and buoy for Dornoch, was considered by the Commissioners as not strictly in the high seas, and therefore not properly belonging to the concerns of the Board, and, together with the light-house, were delayed for the present, that attention might be paid to more urgent demands on other parts of the coast.

[Sidenote: Proposition for altering the site of Kinnaird Head Light-House.]

Notwithstanding the benefit derived from the erection of Kinnaird Head light-house, shipwrecks were still occurring on a dangerous reef of rocks called Rattray Brigs, situate about 12 miles southward of Kinnaird Head, and 6 miles north of Peterhead. In the year 1798, petitions were presented to the Commissioners from certain merchants and traders, setting forth, that the light-house upon Kinnaird Head would be much more beneficial to shipping, were it removed to Rattray Head. This matter was remitted to the author to report upon, who accordingly made a survey of this part of the coast. After maturely considering the subject, it was deemed advisable to decline the removal of the light-house from Kinnaird Head, which was found to be extremely useful for directing ships into the Moray and Cromarty Friths, and also to vessels making the land from the northward. Although it might not, perhaps, be so useful to coasters bound from the south, yet the Commissioners found, that it would be better, under all circumstances, to preserve Kinnaird Head as a light-house station, and, at some future period, to erect an additional light upon this important part of the coast, at or near Peterhead, in a position calculated to be useful as a guide for the sunken reef of Rattray Brigs, and also for the south-eastern shores of Aberdeenshire.

Start Point Beacon.

[Sidenote: ~1801.~]

[Sidenote: Numerous Wrecks on the Island of Sanday.]

Among the several applications brought before the Board for additional light-houses, something still appeared to be necessary for averting the misfortunes which were annually happening on the low shores of the Northern Isles of Orkney. It had now been found, by the experience of about twelve years, that the light-house of North Ronaldsay was not calculated to prevent the numerous wrecks on the islands of Sanday and Stronsay. In the year 1796, when the author was on his annual visit to the Northern Light-houses, he was struck at seeing the wreck of three homeward-bound ships upon the island of Sanday, though situate only about eight miles southward of the light-house of North Ronaldsay. Again, in 1797, he found one wrecked ship on Sanday; but in 1798 he saw the remains of no fewer than five vessels upon that fatal island; and, in the month of December 1799, two of the numerous vessels which were driven from Yarmouth Roads in a dreadful gale of wind at south-east, were also wrecked there. The author having laid this continued and alarming state of things before the Light-house Board, in his annual report of 1801, it was resolved, that a beacon or tower of masonry should be erected upon the Start Point or eastern extremity of the low shores of the island of Sanday; the building to be constructed in such a manner that it might, if found necessary, be converted into a light-house.

[Sidenote: ~1802.~]

[Sidenote: Proofs of a severe winter in Orkney.]

In the year 1802, the author sailed on his annual voyage to the Northern Light-houses so early as the 14th of April, in the Pharos of Leith, carrying with him a foreman and sixteen artificers, to commence the works of the Start Point Tower. After rather a boisterous passage, the vessel reached Orkney in six days, and, at this advanced period of the season, these Islands were found covered to the depth of six inches with snow. This, at any time, is rather uncommon in Orkney; but such had been the severity of the season in the northern regions, that a flock of wild swans which, in severe winters, visit this country, were still seen in considerable numbers upon the fresh-water lakes of Sanday. These large birds are supposed to migrate from Iceland, but are rarely seen here later than the month of March, so that their appearance in the latter end of the month of April, was considered by the Orcadians as a mark of a very severe and long-continued winter in the higher latitudes.

[Sidenote: Quarries at Sanday and Eda.]

[Sidenote: Encroachments of the Sea upon the Land.]

[Sidenote: Of Ruble Building.]

[Sidenote: Houses built with Double walls.]

It having been ascertained that there was no workable sandstone on the island of Sanday, where the Beacon was to be erected, permission was granted by Mr Laing, the proprietor of the contiguous island of Eda, to open a quarry at Calf Sound, where sandstone of a pretty good quality was obtained. With a view to render this building substantially water-tight, it had been originally intended to make it wholly of hewn stone, built in regular courses, technically called ashlar or aisler-work, a term derived from the aisle of a church, where this sort of masonry predominates; but the quarry of Eda being about fourteen miles distant from the work, the stones had to be brought by sea through rapid tides; and there being but indifferent creeks or havens both at the quarry and at the Start Point, it was found necessary to make only the principal stones of hewn-work, while the body of the work was executed in ruble-building, for which excellent materials were got at the Start Point, the property of the Right Honourable Lord Dundas, consisting of sandstone-slate, of a greyish-smoke colour, intermixed with shining particles of mica. The rock here is disposed in strata, from 1 to 8 inches in thickness, and could easily be raised in pieces containing from 15 to 20 square feet. Indeed, the encroachments of the sea had heaped up immense quantities of these schistose stones at high-water mark, all round the Start Point, the shores of which appeared like the ruins of the wall of some large city. These stones, however, were more applicable for the purposes of dike-building, or interior walls, than for external work; for, after having been exposed on the beach for ages to the alternate changes of moisture and dryness, heat and cold, they were found to have many small fissures, or were split horizontally; and although the pieces still seemed to adhere closely, yet they were sufficiently open to admit moisture into the heart of the walls, which, in these stormy and exposed situations, is forced through the building: hence it is, that houses built with drift-stones of this description, are said by the cottagers of these islands to keep out moisture much better when built with puddle or clay, than with the best lime-mortar, which, under certain circumstances, is known to attract moisture, while the clay resists it. But after all the care that can be taken in building with these slaty stones, even when taken fresh from the quarry, they still have a tendency to split into lamellæ, after they are built in the walls. Experienced builders, therefore, generally lay the outward stones of such walls with a slight inclination downwards, or dip, as the workmen term it, the more readily to prevent the admission of wetness. I have been thus particular, because it is hardly possible to prevent walls built of these materials from drawing moisture, until they have been rough cast,--an operation which is so very troublesome, from requiring to be occasionally renewed, that I have found it necessary, in these exposed situations, to build the outward walls double, as the only effectual method of obtaining a comfortable house free of dampness.

[Sidenote: Laying the foundation stone of Beacon.]

The weather continued to be so extremely boisterous here, that it was the middle of the month of May before a sufficient stock of materials was laid down for commencing the building at the Start Point. A wish having been expressed by the workmen, to have the foundation-stone of the Beacon laid with masonic ceremony; and considering the dreary prospect which the artificers had before them, the author was the more willing to embrace so fair an opportunity of affording them the enjoyment of a little convivial happiness. The influx of so many strangers to the island of Sanday for this work, and the novelty of the intended ceremony, made the news soon find its way to every house. Preparations were accordingly made;--the year of our Lord 1802, was cut upon the foundation-stone, in which a hole was perforated for depositing a glass phial, containing a small parchment scroll, setting forth the intention of the building; the official constitution of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; and the name of their Engineer. It also contained several of the current coins of George III. in gold, silver, and copper. The day fixed for the ceremony was the 15th of May. The weather was dry and tolerably agreeable, though cold, with snow upon the ground; the thermometer by Fahrenheit’s scale indicating 35° in the shade at noon. A number of the principal inhabitants, and a crowd of cottagers assembled. Things being arranged for the ceremony, the author, assisted by Mr James Cleghorn, foreman for the works, applied the square and plummet-level to the foundation-stone, in compliance with the ancient custom of the craft. The phial was then deposited in the cavity prepared for it in the stone, and carefully covered up with sand, when the masonic ceremony concluded in the usual manner. The Reverend Walter Traill, minister of the parish, who obligingly attended on this occasion, now stood forward, and, after a most impressive prayer, imploring the blessing of heaven upon the intended purposes of the building, delivered an address, which, from the singularity of the subject, and the excellency of the matter, shall here be inserted.

[Sidenote: Rev. Walter Trail’s Address.]

“This moment is auspicious. The foundation-stone is laid of a building of incalculable value;--a work of use, not of luxury. Pyramids were erected by the pride of kings, to perpetuate the memory of men, whose ambition enslaved and desolated the world. But it is the benevolent intention of our Government, on this spot to erect a tower, not to exhaust, but to increase the wealth, and protect the commerce of this happy kingdom.--To the goodness of GOD, in the first place, we are indebted for a degree of prosperity unknown to other nations. In the next place, we owe our happiness to our insular situation, and attention to maritime affairs. Faction and civil war have, at this period, laid waste the fairest countries of Europe; while peace has flourished within our walls. Agriculture, commerce, and their kindred arts, have prospered in our land. British oak hath triumphed; victory hath been attached to the British flag; and British fleets have ridden triumphant on the wings of the wind.--Consider the great national objects for which this building will be erected. To protect commerce, and to guard the lives of those intrepid men who for us cheerfully brave the fury of the waves, and the rage of battle. The mariner, when he returns to the embraces of his wife and children, after ascribing praise to the Great Giver of safety, shall bless the friendly light which guided him over the deep, and recommend to the protection of heaven, those who urged, who planned, and who executed the work.--This day shall be remembered with gratitude. It shall be recorded, that at the beginning of a new century, the pious care of Government was extended to this remote island. Those rocks, so fatal to the most brave and honourable part of the community, shall lose their terror, and safety and life shall spring from danger and death.--Even you, my friends, who are employed in the execution of this work, are objects of regard and gratitude. You have, for a season, left the society of your families and friends, to perform a work of high interest to your country and to mankind. I am confident, that you will act, in all respects, so as to deserve and obtain the esteem of the people who now surround you. I hope that they will discharge to you every duty of Christian hospitality, and that you will have no occasion to feel that you are strangers in a strange land.--It becomes us to remember, that all the affairs of men are dependent on Providence. We may exert talents and industry, but GOD only can bless our exertions with success. Let our trust be in him. Let us humbly hope that he will bless this day and this undertaking. Through his aid, may there arise from this spot, a tower of safety and protection to the mariner of every tongue and nation.”

The whole of this scene was very impressive; and the plain, decent, and respectable appearance of the people collected on the occasion, was none of the least interesting parts of it.

[Sidenote: Beacon Completed.]

Having now got the works at the Start Point of Sanday fairly commenced, and some progress made in opening the quarries, the author left the Orkney Islands, and continued his voyage westward to the other Light-houses on the coast. Every thing having succeeded well at the Start Point, the Beacon was finished in the month of September. It was terminated at the height of 100 feet above the medium level of the sea, with a circular ball of masonry measuring fifteen feet in circumference.--But this tower having been afterwards converted into a light-house, it seems to be unnecessary here to enter into a more particular specification of the building.

Inchkeith Light-house.

[Sidenote: ~1803.~]

Much inconveniency had been experienced, and many fatal accidents had occurred, in the Firth of Forth, from the want of a light to direct ships past the island of Inchkeith into the Roads of Leith. In the course of the winter of 1801, from this cause, a very severe misfortune happened at the rocks lying off Kinghornness, on the Fifeshire coast, by the loss of the smack Aberdeen, Freeman, master, one of the traders bound from Aberdeen to London. This vessel had been put up the Firth in a storm, loaded with a general cargo, which was valued at upwards of L. 10,000, and had on board 13 passengers, besides the ship’s crew, all of whom perished, excepting the master, the mate, and a lady. So very distressing an accident, with other instances of a similar nature, produced a strong sensation with the public. It was also found, that vessels which, by the direction of the light of May, had entered the Firth of Forth in the course of a long winter night, could not yet venture to hold on their course, up the Firth , owing to the difficulty of passing the island of Inchkeith, and the foul and rocky ground in its neighbourhood. The mariner was thus obliged to lie off and on in this narrow sea, without being able to run for the anchorage of Leith Roads till day-light: but, before morning, the wind perhaps had shifted; and, instead of being in a safe anchorage, he was too often driven to sea. The author has, indeed, known of a ship in this situation, which drifted before the wind even to the coast of Norway.

[Sidenote: Inchkeith Light-house resolved on.]

It was from considerations of this kind that an application was brought forward by the Corporation of the Trinity House of Leith, for the erection of a light-house upon Inchkeith; and the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, also viewing Leith Roads as a naval station and rendezvous for his Majesty’s ships on the North Sea station, resolved upon the propriety and expediency of this measure in the year 1802. Various difficulties occurred about procuring the ground necessary for this establishment, not indeed with the noble proprietor of the island, the Duke of Buccleuch, who forthwith ordered every facility to be given to the work; but time was lost in arranging matters with his Grace’s agent. It was not, therefore, till the summer of the year 1803, that the building on Inchkeith commenced, and the masonry of the light-house was not ready for the light-room till the following year, when the light was exhibited on the 1st day of September 1804. Its position is described as follows:

[Sidenote: Description of Inchkeith Light-house.]

“The Light-house erected on the island of Inchkeith, situate in the Firth of Forth and county of Mid-Lothian, in North Lat. 56° 2´, and Long. 3° 8´. west of London, is elevated 220 feet above the medium level of the sea, of which height the building forms 45 feet. The light is from oil with reflectors, and will be seen from every point of the compass as a Stationary light” (since altered to a Revolving light, as shall be afterwards noticed). “From the light-house Ely-ness bears, by compass, E. NE., distant 16 miles; Light of May E. ½ N., distant 23 miles; Fidra Island E. by S., distant 14 miles; Craig Waugh Rock SE. by S. ½ S., distant 4¾ miles; Leith-Harbour Light SW. ¼ S., distant 3½ miles; Gunnet Rock W., distant 1½ mile; Ox-Scares W. by N. ½ N., distant 4½ miles; Inchcolm W. NW. ¼ N., distant 6½ miles; Pettycur Light N. NW. ¼ N., distant 2½ miles; Kinghorn-ness N. NW. ¾ N. distant 2¼ miles.”

[Sidenote: Originally proposed to be a Leading light.]

This light-house was originally proposed to have been made a double or leading light, to guide ships up the Firth , and especially past the dangerous rock called the Ox-Scares, to the anchorage above Queensferry; but it was thought advisable to erect a light, in the first instance, upon the top of the island, and to defer the erection of a lower or western light till the effect of a single light should be tried. Such, however, appears to have been the benefit of the light on the top of the island, together with a cast-iron Beacon, which, at this time, was erected on the Ox-Scares, that the want of a second light-house on Inchkeith does not seem to have been much felt.

[Sidenote: Light duty for Inchkeith modified.]

By the existing acts of Parliament, the light-house Board is entitled to take the full duties of three halfpence per ton, from the local trade of the Firth of Forth, for the light of Inchkeith, instead of which, only one halfpenny per ton is exacted from such vessels as are not liable to the duty, in consequence of passing some other of the Northern Light-houses. The great utility of this light-house, and the equitable and liberal manner in which these duties are exacted, gave much satisfaction to the maritime and commercial interests of the country.

[Sidenote: Accommodation of Light-keepers’ houses extended.]

It may here be proper to observe, that the erection of Inchkeith Light-house, forms a new era in the works of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; which, as formerly observed, had been necessarily executed on the smallest, plainest and most simple plan that could be devised, and with such materials as could be easily transported, and most speedily erected, so as to meet the urgent calls of shipping, and answer the very limited state of the funds. But from the thriving condition of the trade of the country, the yearly duties which, in 1790, amounted only to L. 1477:5:1; in the year 1802 encreased to L. 4386:7:5. It was, therefore, considered advisable, from its being ultimately more economical, to erect and finish the several works of the light-house Board in the most substantial manner, and more like the buildings of a permanent National Establishment.

[Sidenote: Houses covered with leaden roofs.]

[Sidenote: Disadvantage of slated roofs.]

From the vicinity of Inchkeith to sandstone quarries, the buildings there were executed of aislar masonry. A platform roof covered with lead, and defended by a parapet wall, was adopted for the light-keepers’ house, instead of a slated roof, with garrets of the common construction; a slated roof being not only more liable to be injured by high winds, but when the attic apartments of such houses are occupied, the premises became more exposed to accident from fire. The slated roof, with iron nails, is also subject to decay, owing to the saline particles with which the air is impregnated, and the sprays of the sea, which, even in such situations as Inchkeith, are often blown over the island, though the site of the light-house is about 175 feet in height. Indeed, at all the original light-house stations in the north, the nails were soon rusted, and the slates getting loose, were often blown off in great numbers, so that in the very depth of Winter, the light-keepers have been obliged to make such a requisition as the following: “A slater is much wanted here, to repair the roof of the house, as upwards of 50 slates have been blown away during the late gales.” Instead, also, of a dwelling-house consisting of only two small apartments as formerly, the house at Inchkeith has four rooms, with other conveniencies, laid out for the accommodation of the families of a principal light-keeper and an assistant, who are now appointed to the charge of each of the Northern Light-houses.

[Sidenote: Construction of Light rooms improved.]

[Sidenote: Rendered Fire-proof.]

An entire change also took place at this period upon the construction of the Light-rooms and the reflecting apparatus, as well as in the extension and enlargement of the accommodation for the light-keepers. The early light-rooms were constructed wholly of timber, excepting the window-sash frames, which were made of cast-iron. The outside of the wooden cupola, covered with sheet copper, and the ceiling and floor with fire-proof plates of tinned iron. But it soon appeared that this construction was liable to great objections, particularly to the risk of accidental fire. The timber roof being also unavoidably shut up from the air, and exposed to a degree of heat sufficient to dry it to the state of tinder, its strength and fibrous qualities were soon lost, and the buildings in danger of being destroyed by the storms of winter. At Inchkeith, on the contrary, the roof is framed of iron, and covered with copper, and the floor is laid with flag-stones; while the window-frames, and all the materials exposed to the immediate action of the weather, are made of copper; the windows are glazed with plates of polished glass, measuring 29 inches by 18 inches, and ¼ of an inch in thickness, instead of sash panes of crown-glass, measuring only 12 inches by 8 inches, by which so many astragals were unavoidably introduced into the windows, that much of the light was obstructed and lost.

[Sidenote: Reflectors of Silvered Mirror-glass.]

[Sidenote: Reflectors of Copper, plated with Silver.]

[Sidenote: The use of Argand lamps and Spermaceti Oil introduced.]

The reflectors of the first of the Northern Light-houses were formed to the parabolic curve, upon principles susceptible of considerable accuracy; their powers were, however, small from their reflecting surfaces being composed of facets of silvered mirror-glass, and one point only of each facet coinciding with the curve of the parabola. As many of the rays are thus lost or weakened by transmission through the glass of the reflector, the light is much less brilliant than when reflected from a metallic speculum of a uniform parabolic figure, of a more white and dense body, such as silver. Another objection to mirror-glass reflectors, is the great number of interstices or subdivisions between the pieces of glass, which unavoidably induces a want of cleanliness and uniformity in the reflecting surface as a whole. The improvement upon this part of the reflecting apparatus, as more recently fitted up, consists in employing sheets of copper, plated or coated with silver, which, with much labour and great nicety of workmanship, are formed as nearly as may be into the parabolic curve,--a subject to which we shall again recur, in treating of the reflectors for the Bell Rock Light-house. Instead, also, of whale oil, and the use of the Common lamp, spermaceti oil, and the Argand lamp, were introduced at Inchkeith. Upon these principles, all the new erections of the Northern Light-houses are constructed; and such of the original light-houses, as require considerable repairs, are directed by the Board to be altered to the improved construction. But the erection of such a light-house as that of Inchkeith, in place of requiring an expenditure of only about L. 1000 like the original establishments, cost upwards of L. 5000.

[Sidenote: Inscription on Inchkeith Light-house.]

The light-house of Inchkeith having been erected before the late Mr Smith, the author’s predecessor, had retired from the situation of Engineer for the Northern Light-houses, and being the first of the light-houses erected upon the coast of Scotland on the recently improved principles, it is thought proper to give a plan and elevation of the house and offices, in one of the plates of this work, as a specimen of what is considered a very complete light-house establishment. It may also be noticed here, that the elevation of the light-house tower bears a tablet with the following inscription:--“For the direction of Mariners, and for the benefit of Commerce, this Light-house was erected by order of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses. It was founded on the 18th day of May, in the year 1803, and lighted on the 1st of September 1804. THOMAS SMITH, Engineer.”

[Sidenote: Pilots and Shipwrecked Seamen receive shelter.]

As part of the establishment at Inchkeith, a guard-room is provided for pilots. In the event also of shipwreck upon the coast, in the neighbourhood of any of the light-house stations, from the more extended state of the buildings, the unfortunate seamen are not only directed to be lodged in the best manner that the circumstances of the case will admit, but, in necessitous cases, ship-wrecked mariners have even been allowed a sum of money by the Light-house Board, to clothe and carry them to their respective homes. In this way, it has not unfrequently fallen to the lot of the keepers of the Northern Light-houses, to save the lives of perishing seamen, to succour many poor fishermen and pilots, as well as the half starved and unlucky individuals of water parties, when driven by stress of weather to these lone places of abode, for safety and shelter. In these varied forms, it will not be too much to suppose, that the practice of protecting the navigator in distress, which is said to have formed a chief part of the design of the Fire Towers and Nautical Colleges of the ancients, is thus in some measure restored.

Start Point Light-house.

[Sidenote: ~1806.~]

[Sidenote: Shipwrecks still take place on Sanday.]

[Sidenote: Striking examples of this.]

Notwithstanding the precautions which had been taken to prevent the frequent occurrence of shipwreck upon the island of Sanday, by the erection of a Beacon or Tower of masonry on the Start Point, the loss of ships did not appear to be diminished. It had even become proverbial with some of the inhabitants to observe, “that if wrecks were to happen, they might as well be sent to the poor island of Sanday as any where else.” On this and the neighbouring islands, the inhabitants have certainly had their share of wrecked goods; for here the eye is presented with these melancholy remains in almost every form. For example, although quarries are to be met with generally in these islands, and the stones are very suitable for building dikes, yet instances occur of the land being inclosed, even to a considerable extent, with ship timbers. The author has actually seen a park paled round, chiefly with cedar wood and mahogany from the wreck of a Honduras built ship; and in one island, after the wreck of a ship laden with wine, the inhabitants have been known to take claret to their barley meal porridge, instead of their usual beverage. On complaining to one of the pilots of the badness of his boat’s sails, he replied to the author with some degree of pleasantry, “Had it been His (God’s) will that you came na here wi’ these lights, we might a’ had better sails to our boats and more o’ other things.” It may further be noticed, that when some of Lord Dundas’s farms are to be let in these islands, a competition takes place for the lease, and it is bona fide understood, that a much higher rent is paid than the lands would otherwise give, were it not for the chance of making considerably by the agency and advantages attending shipwrecks on the shores of the respective farms. The author was so struck with some of these circumstances, that he collected, and shall here insert a list of shipwrecks for the twelve years immediately following the erection of North Ronaldsay light-house, in procuring which he was obligingly assisted by the Rev. William Grant, minister of Cross-kirk parish, including the island of North Ronaldsay, and part of Sanday.

[Sidenote: List of Shipwrecks for Twelve Years.]

LIST OF WRECKS on the contiguous islands of North Ronaldsay, Sanday and Stronsay, during a period of Twelve Years, immediately after the erection of North Ronaldsay Light-house, in 1789.

Key: A: Year. B: Voyage. C: Cargo. D: Tonnage. E: Supposed Value of Ship and Cargo.

+-----+-------------------------+------------------+-----+------------+ | A | B | C | D | E | +-----+-------------------------+------------------+-----+------------+ |1789.|Norway to America, |Spirits, &c. | 150 | L. 3500 0 0| |1790.|Hamburgh to do. |Cordage, &c. | 100 | 2800 0 0| |1792.|Norway to Wales, |Wood and Iron, | 90 | 1100 0 0| |---- |Sweden to Liverpool, |Grain, | 120 | 3100 0 0| |---- | Do. to Greenock, |Timber, | 400 | 3400 0 0| |1793.|Norway to Spain, |Fish and Oil, | 100 | 2000 0 0| |---- |Copenhagen to Santa Cruz,|Silks, &c. | 250 | 35,000 0 0| |1794.|Copenhagen to Surinam, |Muslins, &c. | 250 | 20,000 0 0| |---- | Do. to Dundee, |Flax, &c. | 90 | 2000 0 0| |1795.| Do. to America, |Cloth, &c. | 300 | 12,200 0 0| |1796.| Do. to Liverpool, |Timber, | 250 | 2500 0 0| |---- | Do. to Whitehaven,|Timber, | 150 | 1300 0 0| |---- |Liverpool to Ostend, |Wine and Rum, | 400 | 15,300 0 0| |1797.|Baltic to Liverpool, |Grain, | 120 | 3000 0 0| |1798.|Sweden to Hull, |Timber and Iron, | 200 | 2500 0 0| |---- |Norway to Liverpool. |Timber, | 200 | 1800 0 0| |---- | Do. to America, |Cloth, &c. | 200 | 5000 0 0| |---- |Altona to Do. |Spirits and Cloth,| 450 | 18,000 0 0| |---- |London to Gibraltar, |Stores, | 300 | 5000 0 0| |1799.| Do. to Dublin, |Staves, | 150 | 2200 0 0| |1800.|Hamburgh to America, |Cambric and Linen,| 200 | 45,000 0 0| |---- |Dantzic to Liverpool, |Timber, | 900 | 10,000 0 0| | ----------| |22 vessels wrecked in 12 years, supposed value L. 196,400 0 0| +---------------------------------------------------------------------+

[Sidenote: Start Point Tower proposed to be converted into a Light-house.]

[Sidenote: North Ronaldsay Light-house to be converted into a Beacon.]

This list of shipwrecks strongly points out the dangerous nature of the navigation of the seas and friths of the northern islands of Orkney. From a consideration of these numerous accidents, being almost at the rate of two wrecks in the year, and seeing the mangled remains of some fine ships which still appeared upon the island of Sanday, the author was induced to bring this matter again under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, in his report to the Board in the year 1805, when he proposed that the Start Point Beacon should be converted into a light-house, and that North Ronaldsay light should be discontinued, and its tower converted into a beacon, as wrecks were found to happen comparatively seldom upon that island, while hardly a year passed without instances of this kind on the island of Sanday; for, owing to the projecting points of this strangely formed island, the lowness and whiteness of its eastern shores, and the wonderful manner in which the scanty patches of land are intersected with lakes and pools of water, it becomes even in day-light a deception, and has often been fatally mistaken for an open sea. The removal of the light from North Ronaldsay to Sanday, was also calculated to be equally, if not more, useful to the navigation of North Ronaldsay Firth ; the Start Point being only four miles from the sunken rock called the Reef-dyke, as will be seen from the general chart of the coast which accompanies this work. It therefore appeared that if only a single light were allowed for the protection of this coast, it would be much better upon Sanday than on North Ronaldsay.

[Sidenote: Opinion of persons conversant with the Navigation of these Seas.]

On this subject, however, the author was instructed to take the opinion of persons acquainted with the navigation of these seas. Accordingly, when on his annual voyage to the Northern Light-houses, he submitted the subject to the consideration of Mr William Ellis, Commander of the Ross Revenue Cutter, who had then been cruising for several months off these islands, by order of Government, for intelligence relative to the motions of the Dutch fleet, which then threatened to attempt a landing on the Western Coast of Ireland. It was also submitted to Mr Riddoch, Collector, and Mr Manson, Comptroller of the Customs, at Kirkwall; to Mr John Traill, Mr Fotheringham, and Mr Strang of Sanday; and to the ship-masters of Kirkwall and Stromness. These gentlemen all united in opinion as to the superior usefulness of a light upon the island of Sanday.

[Sidenote: Light-house resolved on.]

This measure having been resolved on by the Board, the plans were remitted, with powers to proceed, to Mr William Rae, (now Sir William Rae, Bart. Lord Advocate of Scotland,) who was then Sheriff of the county of Orkney. The works at the Start Point were accordingly commenced early in the summer of 1805; by the month of November the light-room was finished, and the light exhibited on the 1st day of January 1806. Intimation was at the same time given to the public, that the beacon or tower of masonry erected in the year 1803, upon the island of Sanday, having been found insufficient for preventing the numerous shipwrecks upon the low shores of that island, had been converted into a light-house.

[Sidenote: Description of Start Point Light.]

The Start Point of Sanday is situate in the county of Orkney, in North Lat. 59° 20´, and Long. 2° 34´ west of London, from which North Ronaldsay light-house Tower bears by compass, N. NE. ½ E., distant 8 miles, and the Lamb Head of Stronsay SW., distant 15 miles. The light at the Start Point is from oil with reflectors, elevated 100 feet above the medium level of the sea, and is visible from all points of the compass, at the distance of 15 miles, in a favourable state of the atmosphere. To distinguish this light from the other lights on this coast, it is known to mariners as a Revolving light, without colour, exhibiting a brilliant light once in every minute, and becoming gradually less luminous; to a distant observer it totally disappears. In this manner, each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, alternately shows a brilliant light, and a light becoming fainter and more obscure, until it be totally eclipsed.

[Sidenote: The Foreman and Artificers sail for Leith in the Traveller.]

The alteration of the Start Point beacon into a light-house, and the erection of houses for the light-keepers, were placed under the management of Mr George Peebles, an experienced mason, and executed with every possible attention. When the works were completed, he, and such of the artificers as had been retained, proceeded to Stromness on the mainland of Orkney, from whence they were most likely to get a passage to the southward. The party consisted of six in number; and Charles Peebles, the foreman’s brother, wishing to go directly to his native place, took his passage in a vessel bound from Stromness to Anstruther, while Mr George Peebles, and the remaining four men, embarked on board of a schooner, called the Traveller, Cruickshanks master, bound for Leith.

[Sidenote: The Traveller is wrecked.]

[Sidenote: Captain Manby’s Apparatus much wanted.]

This vessel sailed with a fair wind early on the 24th of December 1806. On the following morning they got sight of Kinnaird Head light-house, in Aberdeenshire, and had the prospect of speedily reaching the Firth of Forth; but the wind having suddenly shifted to the south-east, increased to a tremendous gale, which did much damage on the coast. The Traveller immediately put about, and steered in quest of some safe harbour in Orkney. At two o’clock in the afternoon, she passed through the Pentland Firth , and got into the bay of Long Hope; but could not reach the proper anchorage; and, at three o’clock, both anchors were let go in an outer roadstead. The storm still continuing with unabated force, the cables parted or broke, and the vessel drifted on the island of Flotta. The utmost efforts of those on board to pass a rope to the shore, with the assistance of the inhabitants of the island, proved ineffectual, (for want of some apparatus like Captain Manby’s); the vessel struck upon a shelving rock, and, night coming on, sunk in three fathoms water.

[Sidenote: The Foreman and four of the Artificers are drowned.]

Some of the unfortunate crew and passengers attempted to swim ashore, but in the darkness of the night, they either lost their way, or were dashed upon the rocks by the surge of the sea; while those who retained hold of the rigging of the ship, being worn out with fatigue and the piercing coldness of the weather during a long winter night, died before morning,--when the shore presented the dreadful spectacle of the wreck of no fewer than five vessels, with many lifeless bodies, the mournful subjects of the care and pity of the islanders. In one of these wrecks, all on board were lost; and, in the Traveller, only the cabin-boy escaped. This poor boy, from whom these particulars were learned, had, for a time, been sheltered from the severity of the blast, by one of the crew, but being at length left alone, he clung to the top-mast, from which he was with great difficulty removed in the morning, when the storm had somewhat abated.

A very trifling circumstance prevented the vessel bound for Anstruther, from leaving Stromness along with the Traveller, so that Charles Peebles escaped this gale, and arrived with the sad tidings of the fate of his brother and companions. In Mr George Peebles, the light-house service lost a most active and faithful servant, whose next charge would have been at the operations of the Bell Rock light-house. From the peculiar circumstances of this case, the Commissioners were pleased to grant small annuities to the mother of the foreman, and also to the family of another of the sufferers.

Bell Rock Light-house.

[Sidenote: ~1807.~]

In the prosecution of the plan of this introductory account of the Northern Light-houses, we may observe that the attention of the Commissioners was occupied with the erection of the Bell Rock Light-house, during the years 1807, 8, 9, and 10. But as the detail of the operations of these four years forms the chief object of this work, it is not necessary that they should be further noticed here. We therefore proceed to the next operations of the Board, in the order of time.

North Ronaldsay Beacon.

[Sidenote: ~1809.~]

[Sidenote: North Ronaldsay Light extinguished, and its Tower converted into a Beacon.]

It having been considered superfluous to have two light-houses on this part of the coast, within 8 miles of each other, the Light-house Board resolved to extinguish North Ronaldsay light, and convert its tower into a sea-mark, or beacon without a light. It was accordingly intimated in the newspapers of the principal ports of the United kingdom that the light on the Island of North Ronaldsay, in Orkney, situated in North Lat. 59° 40´, Long. 2° 15´ west of London, would be discontinued, and cease to be lighted from and after the 1st day of June 1809; but that the Light-house Tower would be preserved as a Beacon on the coast, by the erection of a Circular Ball of masonry, measuring 8 feet in diameter, instead of a Light-room. This beacon bears from the revolving light on the Start Point of Sanday, N.NE., ½ E. by compass, distant 8 miles, which continues to be lighted as heretofore, the Start Point having been found the most centrical position for a light-house to warn the mariner of his approach to the low shores of the North Isles of Orkney.

Isle of May.

[Sidenote: ~1814.~]

[Sidenote: Light of May first Lighted 1635.]

[Sidenote: Patent ratified 1641.]

The island of May holds a prominent position at the entrance of the Firth of Forth, as will be seen by referring to the charts of the coast which accompany this work. From its connection also with the estuary leading to the Capital of Scotland, and the principal ports of her commerce, the light of May seems to have been the earliest public light on our shores. Over the entrance door of the old light-house tower, a stone, neatly cut into the figure by which the sun is usually represented, bears the date 1635. It appears, also, from the printed acts of the Scottish Parliament, Vol. v. p. 585., that power was granted, in the reign of Charles I., to James Maxwell of Innerwick, and John Cunninghame of Barnes, to erect a light-house upon the Isle of May, and collect certain duties from shipping for its maintenance: The patent for this purpose, was ratified by the Scots Parliament in 1641.

[Sidenote: Much complained of after the Union.]

The duties leviable for the light of May produced much dissatisfaction after the Union, English and Irish vessels having been charged with double rates, as foreigners. There was, besides, a general dislike to any thing that was payable in the form of a tax being held as private property. This light being also a coal-fire, exposed in an open choffer to the vicissitudes of the weather, was found to be very insufficient. After the appointment of a Light-house Board in Scotland, in the year 1786, the shipping interest often expressed a desire that the light of May should be included as one of the Northern Lights; that it might undergo the most recent improvements; that, according to the spirit and conditions of the Northern Light-house acts, the invidious distinction between the shipping of the same kingdom, with regard to the light-house duties, might be done away; and also that there might be some prospect of the duties being modified, and ultimately ceasing. In the year 1809, the author foreseeing, that notwithstanding the erection of the Bell Rock light-house, the navigation of this part of the coast would still be very incomplete, unless the light of May were improved, took an opportunity of bringing this subject under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; but it did not then appear that this could be taken up by the Board, unless it were at the instance of the proprietor.

[Sidenote: Family of Scotstarvit become Proprietors of the Island.]

[Sidenote: Chamber of Commerce get the Light Improved.]

[Sidenote: Wemyss Coal preferred for the Lights.]

The family of Scotstarvit, into whose hands the property of the island and light of May came by purchase, in 1714, along with the estate of Westbarnes, in East Lothian, had long been solicited by the trade of the Firth of Forth, to have the light made better, either by enlarging the choffer for containing the coals, or by altering it to an oil light with reflectors. Statements to this effect having been laid before the proprietor, by the Chamber of Commerce of Edinburgh, a Committee of that body visited the island in the year 1786, and reported on the state of the light. In consequence of the representation of this Committee, the choffer was enlarged to the capacity of a square of three feet; and, instead of about 200 tons of coal per annum, formerly consumed, the quantity of fuel was now doubled. The Chamber further recommended, that the stock of coals, hitherto exposed to the open air on the island, should in future be kept under cover, and that the supply should be invariably got from the collieries of Wemyss, which were preferred as fittest for maintaining a steady light, Wemyss coal being then used at Heligoland, and other coal-lights upon the Continent.

[Sidenote: Light of May considered the best Coal-Light in the kingdom.]

[Sidenote: Portland Family get possession of the Island.]

These conditions were most readily complied with by the tutors of Miss Scott, the proprietor; and the light of May, from that period, was found to be very considerably improved, the choffer for containing the fuel being about double the capacity of any other light-house choffer on the coast of Great Britain. The light of May, from this period, may therefore be described as the most powerful coal-light in the kingdom, although, from its exposure, it was still found to be very unsteady, in bad weather, when most required by the mariner. Lime-kilns and other accidental open fires upon the neighbouring shores, were also apt to be mistaken for the Isle of May choffer. To obviate such dangerous mistakes, there was no other method but the introduction of a light from oil, with reflectors, inclosed in a glazed light-room. The Trinity-house of Leith, in the year 1790, presented a memorial to this effect, to the Duke of Portland, into whose possession the light and Isle of May had come by his Grace’s marriage with Miss Scott of Scotstarvit. But after many fruitless applications urged from time to time by the Merchants of Leith, to have the light altered, the measure was at length given up by them as hopeless.

[Sidenote: Loss of the Nymphen and Pallas Frigates.]

[Sidenote: Their prize-ship arrives in safety.]

[Sidenote: Nine men drowned.]

Early in the morning of the 19th day of December 1810, however, two of his Majesty’s ships, the frigates Nymphen and Pallas, had the misfortune to be wrecked near Dunbar, in consequence, it is believed, of the light of a lime-kiln on the coast of Haddingtonshire having been mistaken for the coal light of the island of May. These frigates having come along the northern coast of Scotland, their situation, as may be seen from the annexed maps, was very different from that of ships approaching the land from a distant voyage, who are much more liable to mistakes of this kind. But what renders the error in this instance more unaccountable is, that one of the ships had even sent a boat ashore at Johnshaven, on the opposite coast of Kincardineshire, in the afternoon of the day preceding their loss; and the other, about the same time and place, dispatched a small prize for Leith Roads, under the command of a Midshipman,--who, in his course up the Firth of Forth, saw the Bell Rock floating light, (for at this time the light-house was not completed),--then the lights on the islands of May and Inchkeith in succession, and before day-light in the morning of the 19th he anchored his little vessel in the Roads. In reporting the prize to the Admiral at Leith, this young gentleman expressed his surprise that the frigates had not reached their station before him. In the course of the forenoon of the same day, however, an express arrived, stating the circumstance of the loss of the Pallas, which had happened in the course of the night, about two miles to the eastward of Dunbar. Soon afterwards, another notice arrived announcing to the Admiral the loss of the Nymphen Frigate in the same manner, and from the same mistake. It is not a little surprising, that although these ships had sailed in company, and were wrecked within a few miles of each other, their similar fate was perfectly unknown by the respective crews, till late in the day on which the accidents happened. It was, however, so far fortunate, that although the ships became total wrecks, only nine men were lost of their joint crews, amounting to about 600 men; all of whom might probably have perished, from the rocky and exposed shore on which they were stranded, had not the weather been very moderate.

[Sidenote: Lord Melville applies to the Light-house Board about the Isle of May Light.]

[Sidenote: Duke of Portland proposes to alter the Light;]

[Sidenote: And proposes that the Commissioners should become Lessees, which is rejected.]

[Sidenote: The Duke demands L. 63,000 for the Light duties and Island.]

Immediately after the loss of these two fine frigates, valued at not less than L. 100,000, Lord Viscount Melville, first Lord of the Admiralty, applied to the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, proposing that the light of May should be assumed as one of the northern lights, and forthwith put under proper regulations. It may here be proper to notice, that, prior to this accident, the Duke of Portland entertained serious intentions of altering this light; and the author had been employed to report to his Grace on its alteration, from the use of pit-coal to oil, with reflectors, the expence of which he had estimated at the annual sum of L. 600. The communication from the Admiralty gave rise to a correspondence between the Light-house Commissioners and the Duke of Portland, who proposed to give the Light-house Board an allowance of L. 600 per annum, for taking burden of the light of May, while his Grace was to continue to levy the duties. This proposal was rejected on the part of the Commissioners, who declined becoming lessees, under the existing acts or constitution of their Board; and it was ultimately concluded, that they could only take up this measure as purchasers for the public, in order to abolish the charge on English and Irish vessels paying as foreigners, and to lessen the duty for that light to the trade in general. In the present state of the light-house funds, this purchase could only be made by a special act of Parliament, and with pecuniary aid from Government: as the sum demanded by the Duke for the island, and the right to the light-duties, was unavoidably great, amounting to no less than Sixty Thousand Guineas.

[Sidenote: Memorial presented to the Admiralty.]

[Sidenote: Isle of May and Duties purchased at L. 60,000.]

In the mean time, Mr Cuningham, Secretary to the Light-house Board, was directed to acquaint Mr Walker, the Duke of Portland’s agent, that the Commissioners could not treat for upholding the light of May for payment of an annual sum. A memorial was then drawn up for the Admiralty, of the whole proceedings in this measure, which was presented by Sir William Rae, Bart., on the part of the Light-house Board; when their Lordships were pleased to give their countenance and support to a bill for the purchase of the light duties and island of May. This bill was accordingly brought into Parliament, and passed in the Session of 1814, authorising a loan of L. 30,000 to be made from the Treasury to the Commissioners of Northern Light-houses, and empowering them to make the purchase from the Duke of Portland, for the sum of L. 60,000.

[Sidenote: Duty of the Light of May reduced by the Act of 1814.]

This important transaction having been closed, the Light-house Board, in terms of this act (46th George III. chap. cxxxvi.) were empowered to reduce the light-duty of the Isle of May, to all British vessels, from one penny half-penny, as collected heretofore, to one penny per ton, when English and Irish ships were no longer treated as foreigners, by paying double dues. Immediate measures were also taken for altering and improving the light. It was, however, too late at the end of the session of 1814, to commence operations on the island; but, in the following summer, the new light-house was erected, and a light from oil with reflectors was exhibited, on the 1st day of February 1816, after a coal-light had been continued here for 181 years, or from 1635.

[Sidenote: Additional Apartments at the Isle of May.]

As the island of May lies about half way between the light-houses of Inch Keith and the Bell Rock, it was thought proper to have two or three apartments in the May Light-house for the reception of such members of the Light-house Board, as might happen to be detained by contrary winds in occasional visits to the Bell Rock, upon which landing is often very difficult and precarious, depending both on the state of the weather and the tides. The dwelling-house at the Isle of May, therefore, is larger than would otherwise have been required for the accommodation of the two light-keepers and their families.

[Sidenote: Notice given of the alterations at Isle of May and Inchkeith.]

In consequence of this change upon the light of May, notice was given to the public, that it had been assumed one of the Northern Light-houses, and that the Commissioners had directed a new light-house, upon improved principles, to be erected, which would not only alter its former appearance, but also occasion a change on the light of Inchkeith, situate about twenty-two miles farther up the Firth of Forth. The following description of the Isle of May light was published.

[Sidenote: Description of the Light of May.]

[Sidenote: Old Light-house converted into a Pilot’s Guard-room.]

“The light-house on the Island of May, is situate at the entrance of the Firth of Forth, in North Lat. 56° 12´, and Long. 2° 36´ west of London. From the light-house, Fifeness bears, by compass, N. by E. ½ E., distant five miles, and the Staple Rocks lying off Dunbar, S. by W. ½ W., distant ten miles. The light being formerly from coal, exposed to the weather in an open grate or choffer, was discontinued on the night of the 1st day of February 1816, when a light from oil, with reflectors, known to mariners as a Stationary Light, was exhibited. The new light-house tower, upon the Island of May, is contiguous to the site of the old one, and is elevated 240 feet above the medium level of the sea, of which the masonry forms 57 feet, and is therefore similar to the old tower in point of height. The new light is defended from the weather in a glazed light-room, and has a uniformly steady appearance, resembling a star of the first magnitude, and is seen from all points of the compass, at the distance of about seven leagues, and intermediately according to the state of the atmosphere.”--The old light-house tower on the Island of May, has been reduced in height to about 20 feet, and by directions of the Light-house Board, it has been converted into a guard-room like that upon Inchkeith, for the use and conveniency of pilots and fishermen.

Inchkeith Revolving Light.

[Sidenote: Description of Inchkeith Revolving Light.]

The above description, in so far as regards the appearance of the light of May being exactly applicable to that of Inchkeith, described at page 25. of this Introduction, it was found expedient to alter it from a stationary to a revolving light, that it might be distinguished from the light of May, where a revolving light would have been liable to be mistaken for the Bell Rock light, owing to the more contiguous position of the May island to the Bell Rock.

The light upon Inchkeith, hitherto a stationary light from oil, with reflectors, was therefore altered and converted into that description of light known to mariners as a Revolving light without colour, on the same night that the change took place upon the Isle of May. The light of Inchkeith is seen from all points of the compass, at the distance of five leagues in favourable weather, exhibiting a bright light once in every minute, and gradually becoming less luminous, it totally disappears to a distant observer. In this manner, each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, alternately shows a brilliant light, which becomes fainter, and more obscure, until it is totally eclipsed. By this alteration, the same description and appearance of the other lights upon the coast is preserved, and the possibility of mistaking Inchkeith light for the numerous lights on the land, with which it is surrounded, is now also effectually prevented.

Corsewall.

[Sidenote: ~1815.~]

[Sidenote: Additional Light proposed for the western coast on Corsewall Point.]

It had long been the wish of the mercantile interest of the Firth of Clyde and St George’s Channel, to have a light on the coast of Galloway, to direct ships, on the Scotch side, into the Irish Channel. From the great amount of light-house duties collected upon the western coast, and the extent of light-house works which had of late years been erected upon the eastern shores, including the Bell Rock and Isle of May light-houses, the Commissioners were desirous of accommodating the trade of the western coast, as far as the demands of shipping required, or the state of the light-house funds would permit. It was accordingly resolved, that a report upon this subject, made to the Light-house Board by the author, should be submitted to the trade of Liverpool, Glasgow and Greenock, for their observations. Having in this manner procured the necessary information, it was resolved that a light-house should be erected for the benefit of this coast, upon the northern extremity of the Mull of Galloway in Wigtonshire, on the point of Corsewall; because, in addition to the advantages of this situation, as an excellent direction both for the entrance of the Irish Channel and Firth of Clyde, it would answer as a guide to the Roadstead or anchorage of Loch Ryan.

[Sidenote: Light-houses necessary for the navigation of the Irish Channel.]

In the course of the correspondence on this subject, it had been stated by Mr Quintin Leitch, Chief Magistrate of Greenock, a gentleman well acquainted with the navigation of these seas, that if light-houses were erected upon the Isle of Man, these, with the lights of Copeland and Kilwarlin, on the Irish side of the channel, together with the proposed light on Corsewall Point, and another on the Hulin or Maiden rocks, off the coast of Antrim, would fully protect this important part of the coast.

[Sidenote: Foundation-stone of Corsewall Light-house laid.]

After considering the subject in its various bearings, the Board resolved, as before noticed, on the erection of a light-house on Corsewall Point, in the month of January 1815, and on the 17th day of June following, the foundation-stone was laid, by Mr Quintin Leitch, as master mason, when Mr James Spreull, Chamberlain of the city of Glasgow, Mr Lachlan Kennedy, under whose charge the works were placed, and the Engineer, assisted at the ceremony. In the course of the Summer and Autumn, the tower of this light-house was got to the height of 35 feet, and some progress was also made with the walls of the house for the light-keepers.

[Sidenote: ~1816.~]

[Sidenote: Light-house finished.]

The works at Corsewall being suspended during winter, were again resumed in the ensuing spring. The light-room was completed in the autumn, and the light was exhibited to the public on the night of the 15th day of November 1816, agreeably to the following description.

[Sidenote: Description of Corsewall Light.]

“Corsewall light-house is situate in the county of Wigton, in North Lat. 55° 1´, and West Long. 5° 5´. It bears by compass, from Millour Point, on the western side of the channel leading into Loch Ryan, W. by S., distant about two miles; from Turnberry Point, SW. 21 miles; from the Craig of Ailsa SS. W. 15 miles; from the Mull of Kintyre S. E. S. 31 miles; from the Hulin or Maiden rocks on the coast of Antrim, E. by S. 20 miles; from Copeland Light-house, near the entrance of Belfast loch, NE. ½ E. 22 miles, and from Laggan point in Galloway, NE., distant 3½ miles. To distinguish this light, which is from oil, with a reflecting and revolving apparatus, from the other lights upon the coast, it is known to mariners as a Revolving light with colour, and exhibits from the same light-room a light of the natural appearance, alternating with a light tinged with a red colour. These lights, respectively, attain their greatest strength, or most luminous effect, at the end of every two minutes. But, in the course of each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, the lights become alternately fainter and more obscure, and, to a distant observer, are totally eclipsed for a short period. The light-room at Corsewall is glazed all round, but the light is hid from the mariner by the high land near Laggan Point, towards the south, and by Turnberry Point towards the north. This light is elevated 112 feet above the medium level of the sea, and its most luminous side may be seen like a star of the first magnitude, at the distance of five or six leagues, but the side tinged red being more obscured by the colouring shades, is not seen at so great a distance.”

Isle of Man.

[Sidenote: Rate of Light-house duties for the Isle of Man.]

The subject of the erection of the light-houses on the Isle of Man, having again been agitated by the merchants of Liverpool, the rates of duty which would probably be demanded for the erection of a light-house upon the Calf of Man, was procured from one of the agents of the Trinity-House of London upon that coast. This schedule of duties appearing to be high, a correspondence took place between Mr William Laird of Liverpool, and Mr Quintin Leitch of Greenock, respecting the rate of Scotch light-house duties, which was ultimately brought under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-Houses, by Sir William Rae, Bart.

[Sidenote: ~1802.~]

[Sidenote: Author’s Report on this subject.]

Reference having been made to the author relative to the expence of erecting a light-house upon the Calf of Man, he stated to the Board, that, in the course of a tour which he had made in the year 1802, round the coast of Great Britain, he visited the Isle of Man, with a view to ascertain the most eligible places for light-houses on that island, where he considered two light-house stations to be indispensably necessary, viz. one on the Calf of Man, to the south, and another on the Point of Ayre, towards the north of the island. From the numerous shipping of that district, he only calculated upon the duty of one farthing per ton upon shipping for the light-houses of both stations. The Commissioners took this matter under consideration at the time, as appears from their minutes of the 14th January 1803, which state, that “Mr Stevenson had reported very strongly of the great utility which would attend the erection of light-houses on the Isle of Man; but that island not being within the jurisdiction either of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses or Trinity Board of London, both boards seem thereby to be prevented from accomplishing an object so much wished for by mariners, as such an improvement upon the coast would prove a great additional security to the navigation of those seas, and especially to the trade of a great number of the ports of England and Ireland. In order, therefore, that this circumstance might not be overlooked, the Commissioners direct this notice to be taken of it in their minutes, that if an application to Parliament should, at a future period, be deemed necessary, they may judge how far it may not be proper in them to apply for power to erect lights upon the Isle of Man.”

[Sidenote: Scotch Light-house Board applied to for lights on the Isle of Man.]

When these circumstances were intimated to the merchants of Liverpool, and especially that the rate of one farthing per ton was considered a sufficient rate of duty, the business was brought under the notice of the Association of Shipowners and other public bodies of Liverpool, by Mr John Gladstone, when a representation and petition from them was presented to the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, praying, that they would bring a bill into Parliament, to enable them to erect the necessary light-houses on the Isle of Man.

[Sidenote: Act of 1815.]

This application having been complied with, Sir William Rae was requested to attend to the progress of the bill, and to take the assistance of any of the other members of the light-house board who might happen to be in London at the time. The Isle of Man Light-house Bill was accordingly brought forward by Mr Huskisson, in absence of Mr Canning, member of Parliament for Liverpool, as a measure in which that port was specially interested. But when the subject was communicated to the late Mr Rose, M. P., one of the elder brethren of the Trinity House of London, he requested that nothing might be done in this measure, until he should have an opportunity of consulting with the gentlemen of the Trinity-House, as he considered the Isle of Man to be within the district of that board. After repeated meetings, at which Mr Rose attended, he ultimately stated, that the Trinity Board did not consider the Isle of Man as coming under their line of coast; and that the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses might, therefore, go on with their bill. It was accordingly brought forward in the House of Commons, and the author attended to prove the preamble of the bill in the House of Lords; and in June 1815 it received the Royal assent.

[Sidenote: Difficulty in fixing the position of the Isle of Man lights.]

In returning towards Scotland, I embarked in the Light-house Yacht at Liverpool, and visited the Isle of Man. It appeared, on examining the site for the erection of a light-house on the Point of Ayre, or northern extremity of the island, that there would be no difficulty in fixing its place. But the case was different at the Calf Island, as there seemed an evident advantage in having the house on a low situation, to keep it more free from fog, and where it might also be more in the line of direction with a dangerous reef called the Chickens, lying about a mile into the offing. On this low position, called Kaager Point, the high land of the Calf would have shut in the light very much from the northward. Another situation, however, presented itself; but, as this last station was considerably higher, it might perhaps be found more uncertain with regard to fog resting upon it in thick and hazy weather; and it was therefore thought prudent to place a trusty person on the island, with directions for observing and communicating the state of the weather for about six months, previously to determining the site of the light-house on the Calf of Man. This mode of inquiring into the subject, was strengthened by the report of some intelligent persons relative to the prevailing state of the weather at the Isle of Man, who represented that the Calf Island was less liable to be enveloped in fog than the higher parts of the Main Island.

[Sidenote: A person stationed on the Island to observe the state of the weather.]

In the month of August 1815, when Sir William Rae, Bart. then Sheriff of the shire of Edinburgh, Mr Robert Hamilton, Sheriff of Lanarkshire, and Mr Adam Duff, Sheriff of Forfarshire, Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, visited this island, they concurred in judging it highly proper to make special observations on the state of the weather at the Calf Island. In the beginning of November following, the author accordingly sent Mr Macurich, a shipmaster in the light-house service, to that island, with directions to reside there, and make monthly returns of the state of the weather, agreeably to a printed form. During his stay of seven months, it appears, upon the whole, that the fog rested only twice upon the highest land of the Calf, while it cleared partially below. On one of these occasions, I was on board of the Light-house yacht, then at anchor off the island, when the fog was for a time general; and as the weather became clear, I observed that it first disappeared upon the lower parts of the island; and that in half an hour the whole of the Calf was seen. In the journal of the weather alluded to, the Calf Island is represented as often perfectly free of fog, while the higher parts of the opposite mainland of Man, was hid in mist. To account for this, it may be noticed, that the mass of matter in the Calf island is much less, and the land is also much lower, than in the main island. Part of this effect may also be ascribed to the rapidity of the tides, which create a current of wind, particularly in the narrow channel between the Main and Calf islands; which have a direct tendency to clear away the fog; as I have observed at the Skerries in the Pentland Firth , and in similar situations on different parts of the coast, where rapid currents prevail.

[Sidenote: ~1816.~]

[Sidenote: Distinguishing Light for the Calf of Man.]

From these observations, the author was led to report to the Commissioners, that the light-house on the Calf of Man should hold an intermediate position between the highest part of the island, called Bushel’s Hill, and the lower site called Kaager Point; and, further, that by erecting two light-house towers in a certain relative position to each other, they would point out the line of direction of the dangerous sunken rocks called the Chickens, and by adopting that description of light known to mariners as a Revolving light without Colour, this station would be sufficiently distinguished from the lights which surround the Isle of Man on the Scotch, Irish, and English shores.

[Sidenote: ~1817.~]

[Sidenote: Lights of the Isle of Man completed.]

A difficulty occurred in proceeding with the Isle of Man light-houses, from the want of funds to enable the Commissioners to proceed with the works. The Board had already become liable for a large sum to liquidate the payment of the purchase-money of the private right of the Portland Family to the duties of the light of May. On this measure, and in the erection of the Bell Rock light-house, as before noticed, there had been expended upwards of L. 160,000 in the course of the last ten years; so that it became necessary to borrow L. 10,000, agreeably to the act, for the Isle of Man. In this state of things, the works at the Isle of Man were delayed for a time; but, in the month of August 1816, they were commenced. The light-rooms were completed in the month of December 1817; and, on the night of the 1st of February 1818, the lights, both at the stations of the Point of Ayre, and Calf Island, were exhibited to the public, agreeably to the following descriptions.

Point of Ayre.

[Sidenote: ~1818.~]

[Sidenote: Description of the Point of Ayre Light-house.]

The only consideration to be taken into view in fixing the site of the Point of Ayre Light-house, was the wasting appearance of the shores by the effects of the sea at this part of the coast. Although, therefore, it would have answered fully better, for the purposes of the light, to have erected the tower close upon high-water-mark, yet the beach being composed of a loose shifting gravel, it became a matter of prudence rather to keep the buildings at some distance from it.

“The Point of Ayre light-house is situate about 650 feet from the sea, at high-water of spring tides, upon an extensive plain in the Main Island of Man, in north latitude 54° 27´, and longitude 4° 20´ west of London. The light-house bears, by compass, from the Mull of Galloway, S. S. E. and is distant 22 miles; from Burrowhead, S. S. W. ½ W. distant 16 miles; from St Bees, in Cumberland, W. by N. ¾ N. distant 29 miles; and from Rue Point, E. by S. distant 4 miles.

“The light is from oil, with a reflecting and revolving apparatus, and is known to mariners as a “Revolving-coloured-light,” exhibiting from the same Reflector-frame a light of the natural appearance, alternating with one tinged red. These lights respectively attain their most luminous effect, at the end of every two minutes. But, in the course of each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, both lights become alternately fainter and more obscure, and, to a distant observer, are totally eclipsed for a short time.

“The Light-room at the Point of Ayre is glazed all round, but the light is hid from the mariner by the high land of Maughold Head towards the south, and by Rue Point towards the west. Being elevated 106 feet above the medium level of the sea, its most luminous side may be seen, like a star of the first magnitude, at the distance of five leagues; but the side tinged red, being somewhat obscured by the coloured shades, cannot be seen at so great a distance.”

Calf of Man.

[Sidenote: Description of Calf of Man Light.]

“There are two leading lights on the Calf of Man, situate on the western side of the small island called the Calf, in north Lat. 54° 5´, and Long. 4° 46´ west of London. These two light-houses are distant from each other 560 feet. The higher light bears by compass from the Mull of Galloway, S. SW. distant 37 miles; Peelhead, in the Isle of Man, SW. distant 11 miles; Langness Point, W. by N. ½ N. distant 6 miles; and from the sunken rocks, called the Chickens, NE. ⅓ E. distant about 1¼ mile.

“These lights are from oil, each light-room being furnished with a distinct reflecting and revolving apparatus, by which they are distinguished from the other lights on the coast, and rendered useful as leading lights for passing the dangerous rocks called the Chickens. The light-house towers, as before noticed, are built at the distance of 560 feet apart, bearing from each other NE. ⅓ E. and SW. ¼ W. Consequently, to an observer, in the direction of the Chickens, both lights will appear in one, or be seen in the same line of direction, and be known to mariners as “Double-revolving and Leading-lights without colour.” These lights will respectively attain their most luminous effect at the end of every two minutes; but, in the course of each periodic revolution of the reflector frames, they alternately become fainter and more obscure, and, to a distant observer, are totally eclipsed for a short time. The two light-rooms at the Calf of Man are glazed all round, but are hid from the mariner by the high land of Peel Head towards the NE. and by Spanish Head in an eastern direction; both lights, however, will be visible at about ¼ of a mile from Langness Point. The lower light is elevated 305 feet above the medium level of the sea, and the high light 396 feet, and they will be seen like two stars of the first magnitude, at the distance of six or seven leagues, in a favourable state of the atmosphere.”

[Sidenote: Extension of the Northern Lights to the Irish Sea.]

By the extension of the works of the Scotch Light-house Board to the Isle of Man, the system of the Northern Light-houses may now be said, in a general way, to extend over the whole of the coast of Scotland, while the lights of Man are of immediate importance to the extensive shipping of the coasts of England and Ireland, which bound the Irish Sea. The trade of Dublin and Newry, &c. on the one side, and of Liverpool, Lancaster, Whitehaven, and Workington, &c. on the other, find the traffic with those ports much more safe since the erection of these lights. Instead of shunning the Isle of Man, as formerly, owing to the projecting points, sunken rocks, and sand-banks connected with it, the mariner now steers boldly for this island, and takes shelter under it in stormy weather.

Sumburgh Head.

[Sidenote: Shetland Islands.]

According to the existing acts of Parliament relative to the Northern Lights, no additional duty is exigible for any new erections of the Board, as the only part of the coast not liable, prior to the extension of the Scots Light-house Acts to the Isle of Man, was that of the Solway Firth , now also subject to the duty. These acts, however, empower the Commissioners to erect additional light-houses; and when a sufficient number shall have been exhibited on the coast, and a surplus fund provided for their maintenance, the duty on shipping is ultimately to cease, and be no longer payable. Presuming, therefore, upon the prosperity of the commerce of the country, for an increase of funds, the Commissioners, though there were large sums to pay, both in the form of interest for Government loans, and instalments for borrowed money, taking into consideration the unprotected state of the Shetland Islands, a part of their district still without the immediate benefit of light-houses, had in view to erect an additional Light-house, as soon as their funds would admit, on some of the most prominent points of that group of Islands. The winters of 1817 and 1818 having been very unfortunate to the shipping of the North Seas, and some very distressing shipwrecks having occurred at Shetland, Mr William Erskine, now Lord Kineddar, then Sheriff of the County of Orkney and Shetland, and ex officio one of the Commissioners, brought the subject again under the notice of the Board; and, in the month of January 1819, it was finally resolved that a Light-house should be erected on Sumburgh Head in Shetland, the position of which will be seen by inspecting Plate III. This work having been accordingly contracted for by Mr John Reid, builder, of Peterhead, the first stone of the building was laid on the 10th day of May 1820, and the light exhibited on the night of the 15th day of January 1821, agreeably to the following specification of the position of the house, and appearance of the light:

[Sidenote: Description of Sumburgh Head Light-house.]

“Sumburgh Head Lighthouse is situate on the southern promontory of the Mainland of the Shetland Islands, in north latitude 59° 52´, and longitude 1° 15´ west of London. The Lighthouse, by compass, bears from Hangcliff-head in Noss Island SW. by W. ¼ West, distant 21 miles. From Fair Island NE. by E. ½ East, 26 miles. And from the Island of Foula, SE. by S. ¼ South, distant 28 miles. In reference to these bearings, the light is visible to the mariner from the southward, between Noss and Foula Islands. This light is known to mariners as a “Stationary light from oil with reflectors;” and being elevated 300 feet above the medium level of the sea, it is seen, like a star of the first magnitude, at the distance of seven or eight leagues, and at intermediate distances, according to the state of the atmosphere.”

[Sidenote: Built with double walls.]

From the very exposed situation of the promontory of Sumburgh Head, and the great difficulty experienced in preserving the walls of light-houses in a water-tight state, the writer followed a new plan with the buildings at this station, in having made the whole of the external walls double; the masonry of the outward wall being lined with brick instead of lath-work, with a space of three inches left between the double walls. This method was of course, more expensive in the first instance, but will ultimately be much more economical, as repairs, in these remote situations, are unavoidably very expensive. This house is free of dampness, and has not admitted a single drop of water through any part of the walls during the storms of two successive winters, although the force of the wind is such, that the light-keepers, when out of doors, are frequently obliged to move upon their hands and knees, to prevent their being blown off the high land. In such states of the weather, accompanied by rain, it is hardly possible to prevent a single wall from admitting water.

Carr Rock.

The Carr forms the seaward termination of a reef of sunken rocks which appear at low-water, extending about a mile and three quarters from the shore of Fifeness, on the northern side of the entrance of the Firth of Forth. The very dangerous position of this rock, as a turning point, in the navigation of the northern-bound shipping of the Firth , will be seen from the chart of the coast, Plate IV. It seemed necessary, therefore, for the safety of navigation, that the Carr Rock, in connection with the several light-houses of the Bell Rock, Isle of May, and Inchkeith, should be made as easily distinguishable to the mariner as possible.

[Sidenote: Shipwrecks at the Carr Rock.]

The author, while occupied with the works at the Bell Rock, having been often struck with the frequent and distressing occurrence of shipwreck at the Carr Rock, was induced to collect information as to the probable numbers of these wrecks; and he accordingly obtained, from persons who had good access to know, the following list of wrecked vessels, for a period of nine years prior to the commencement of the works at the Carr Rock.

+----------------------------------------------------------------------+ | List of Shipwrecks off Fifeness, between the Years 1800 and 1809. | +------------------+----------------+--------------+-------------------+ | VESSELS’ NAMES. | MASTERS’ NAMES.| DESCRIPTIONS.| PORT BELONGING TO.| +------------------+----------------+--------------+-------------------+ |Unknown. | Simpson. | Sloop. | South Ferry. | |Martha. | Clark. | Do. | Crail. | |Leven. | Phillip. | Do. | Leven. | |Neptune. | Finlay. | Do. | Dundee. | |Unknown. | Brown. | Do. | Kincardine. | |Aurora. | Leslie. | Brig. | Arbroath. | |Lady Charlotte. | Duncan. | Sloop. | Aberdeen. | |Two Brothers. | Carfrae. | Brig. | Dundee. | |Expedition. | Nicol. | Sloop. | Kincardine. | |Isabella. | Rintoul. | Do. | Perth. | |Unknown. | Johnston. | Do. | Do. | |Do. | Unknown. | Do. | John’s Haven. | |New Deer. | Banks. | Do. | Kirkaldy. | |Unknown. | Hamson. | Galliot. | Christiansand. | |Countess of Elgin.| Gowans. | Sloop. | John’s Haven. | |Unknown. | Small. | Do. | South Ferry. | +------------------+----------------+--------------+-------------------+

[Sidenote: Floating-buoy moored off the Carr.]

By this melancholy list we find, that no fewer than sixteen vessels have, in the course of nine years, been either lost or stranded on the Carr Rocks, being almost at the rate of two wrecks in the year. From this alarming state of things, it was thought advisable to bring the subject under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, when the Board immediately ordered a Floating-buoy, of a large size, to be moored off the Carr. The moorings for this buoy were laid down, upon the 18th of September 1809, in 10 fathoms water, at the distance of about 200 fathoms, in a north-eastern direction, from the rock. But, owing to the heavy swell of sea, and the rocky sandstone bottom on this part of the coast, it was found hardly possible to prevent the buoy from occasionally drifting, even although it had been attached to part of the great chain, made from bar-iron, measuring 1½ inch square, with which the Bell Rock floating light had been moored for upwards of four years, without injury. The moorings of the Carr Rock-buoy, from the continual rubbing upon the sandstone bottom, were worn through with the friction in the course of ten months; and during the four years which it rode here, though regularly examined and replaced, in the proper season of the year, it was no less than five times adrift, to the great inconveniency and hazard of shipping.

[Sidenote: A Beacon of masonry is resolved on.]

Under these circumstances, the Light-house Board was induced to erect a Beacon of masonry upon the Carr Rock itself, instead of the Floating-buoy. This work was commenced in the month of June, in the year 1813, under the direction of the writer. The stone for this building was taken from an excellent sandstone quarry on the property of Lord Kellie, near the mouth of Pitmilly Burn: But, owing to the smallness of the rock, the depth of water upon it, and the exposed nature of the situation, the work was afterwards attended with very great difficulty.

[Sidenote: Dimensions of the Carr Rock.]

The length of the Carr Rock, from south to north, measures 75 feet; but its greatest breadth, as seen at low-water of spring-tides, being only 23 feet, it was found to be impracticable to obtain a base for a building of greater diameter than 18 feet. Such also was the fractured and rugged state of the surface of this rock, that it became necessary to excavate part of the foundation-pit of the building to the depth of seven feet. The difficulties of this part of the work were also greatly increased, owing to the foundation, on the eastern side, being under the level of the lowest tides: so that it became necessary to construct a coffer-dam. Part of this coffer-dam it was necessary to remove, and carry ashore, after each tide’s work; and on the return of the workmen at ebb-tide, a considerable time was unavoidably occupied in fixing the moveable part of the coffer-dam, and in pumping the water out of the foundation-pit.

[Sidenote: Difficulties of this work compared with those of the Bell Rock.]

But, to enable the reader to form a comparative estimate of the difficulties attending the early stages of the Carr Rock Beacon, with those of the Bell Rock Light-house, it may be noticed, that the period which the artificers were actually at work upon the Carr Rock, as ascertained by the foreman during the first season, or the summer of 1813, was 41 hours; and in 1814, after the experience of one year’s work, these were only extended to 53 hours. Now, if we compare 1807 and 1808, the two first years’ work at the Bell Rock, we find the artificers were respectively about 180 and 265 hours upon that rock. The first two years at the Carr Rock were entirely occupied in excavating and preparing the foundation, and in laying 10 stones, or the half-course of masonry, which brings the foundation to a uniform level, for the first entire course of the building, as shewn in Plate II.; while, at the Bell Rock, in the two first seasons three courses were erected, as represented in Plate IX., of a building situate 12 miles from the shore, and measuring 42 feet in diameter at the base, besides the erection of a Beacon-house or Barrack for the workmen. The establishment for the works at the Bell Rock was of course on a much larger scale than that of the Carr Rock; but still the latter was equally effective, and the same apparatus, artificers and seamen, were employed at both.

[Sidenote: Third year’s work at the Carr Rock.]

During the third year’s work, or 1815, the second course of the masonry was completed upon the Carr, and nine stones of the third course had been got laid by the 3d of October, when a heavy ground-swell obliged the artificers precipitately to leave the rock and take to their boats. This swell was immediately accompanied by a gale of easterly wind, and before the cement had taken bond or firmness, the surge of the sea washed it out; when the oaken trenails, used as a temporary fixture during the progress of the work, were wrenched off, and the stone-joggles broken asunder. The whole of the nine blocks of stone were thus swept off the rock and lost in deep water, though they had been completely dove-tailed, and fitted on the same principles as the masonry of the Bell Rock Light-house, where not a single stone was lost during the whole progress of the work.

[Sidenote: Fourth year’s work.]

In the year 1816, or fourth season, the work was continued till the month of November, when the building had attained the height of about 20 feet, or the 16th course, and still wanting 18 courses to complete the masonry. In this state, it was left till the following season, having been previously loaded with about four tons of lead, cast in suitable pieces, and suspended within the void or central hollow of the building. The operations of the fourth season had been also much retarded by several untoward accidents. In particular, a heavy gale overtook the workmen while they were laying the 7th course, which obliged them to leave the rock before the precautionary measures could be taken, for closing and completing the work immediately in hand; in consequence of which, the stones on the eastern, or weather-side of this course, were lifted off their bases, the oaken trenails broken, and five of the blocks of stone swept away. At another period, the Pozzolano mortar of the beds of two of the stones was washed out, and so much injured, that the stones required to be lifted and relaid. The works were this season intended to have been closed early in the month of October, when another unlucky gale sprung up, just as the sixteenth course had been laid, which lifted seven of the stones off their beds; but they were fortunately held by the oaken trenails, and in this state they remained for about three weeks, before a landing could possibly be effected, to replace them.

[Sidenote: Fifth year’s work.]

In the month of June 1817, the fifth year’s work was begun, and the remaining courses of the masonry were built; but in the month of November, the coast was visited with a gale of wind at south-east, accompanied with a heavy swell of sea, which, unfortunately, washed down the upper part of the building, and reduced it to the height of the fifth course, which formed part of the fourth year’s work.

[Sidenote: Beacon finished with cast-iron pillars and ball.]

Instead, therefore, of completing this Beacon with masonry, as had been originally intended, and providing the Machine and large Bell, which was to have measured 5 feet across the mouth, to be tolled by the alternate rise and fall of the tide, it now became a matter of consideration in what form the upper part of this design should be finished. The Board ultimately determined on the erection of six columns of cast-iron upon the remaining courses of masonry. These columns are put together with spigot and facet joints, strongly connected with collars and horizontal bars of malleable iron; the whole terminating with a cast-iron ball, formed in ribs, elevated about 25 feet above the medium level of the sea. In this manner the Carr Rock Beacon was at length completed, in the month of September 1821, after six years work. The following is the notice and description of it given to the public:

[Sidenote: Bearings and Description of the Carr Rock Beacon.]

“The Carr Rock forms the seaward ledge of a range of sunken rocks, extending about two miles from Fifeness, on the eastern coast of Scotland, in North Latitude 56° 17’, and Longitude 2° 35´ west of London. By compass the Carr Rock Beacon bears SW. by W. from the Bell Rock, distant 11 miles; and from the Isle of May Light-house N.N.E. ¼ E., distant 6 miles.

“The lower part of the beacon is a circular building of masonry, 18 feet in diameter, forming a basement for six pillars of cast-iron, terminating in a hollow ball of that metal, which measures 3 feet across, and is elevated about 25 feet above the medium level of the sea.

“The erection of this beacon has been attended with much difficulty, having occupied six years in building; in the course of which the works sustained occasional damage. Mariners are therefore warned, when they run for the Carr Rock Beacon, to do so with caution, both on account of its exposure to the breach of the sea, and its liability to receive damage from vessels under sail.”

[Sidenote: Application of the tide-machine described.]

The form and construction of the Carr Rock Beacon, both as originally intended, and ultimately executed, will be better understood by referring to Plate II., and to the annexed Description of the Plates. The motion to be given to the bell-apparatus, or tide-machine, was to be effected by admitting the sea water through a small aperture, of three inches in diameter, perforated in the solid masonry, communicating with a cylindrical chamber, in the centre of the building, measuring two feet in diameter, in which a float or metallic air-tank, was to rise and fall with the tide. The train of machinery for this apparatus was calculated for a perpendicular rise of only six feet, being equal to the lowest neap-tides on this coast. During the period of flood-tide, the air-vessel, in its elevation, by the pressure of the water, was to give motion to machinery for tolling the bell, and winding up a weight; which last, in its descent, during ebb-tide, was to continue the motion of the machine, until the flood-tide again returned to perform the joint operation of tolling the bell and raising the weight. A working model of a machine upon this principle having been constructed, it was kept in motion for a period equal to several months: this was effected by water run through a succession of tanks, raised by a pump from the lower one to the higher, thus producing the effect of flood and ebb tides. The time during which this apparatus was in action, having been ascertained by an index, a constant attendance upon the machine, during this protracted experiment, became unnecessary.

[Sidenote: General application of tide-machinery.]

The upper termination of the Beacon, in its present form, does not admit of the application of the tide-machine with the bell-apparatus. Experiments as applicable to this have, however, been tried with a wind-instrument, to be sounded by the pressure of the sea water; but it has not succeeded to the extent that seems necessary for a purpose of this kind. We have indeed thought, that the application of pressure as a power, communicated by the waters of the ocean, in mechanical operations, might be carried to almost any extent, by simply providing a chamber or dock, large enough for the reception of a float or vessel, of dimensions equivalent to the force required. This description of machinery is more particularly applicable in situations where the tides have a great rise, as in the Solway Firth , Bristol Channel, and other parts of the British seas; and at St Malo, on the coast of France.

[Sidenote: Leading Lights suggested.]

A Beacon of any form, unprovided with a light, must always be considered an imperfect land-mark, and therefore various modes have been contemplated, for more completely pointing out the position of the Carr Rock. It has been proposed that phosphoric lights should be exhibited from the top of the Building. This object, however, would be more certainly accomplished, by the erection of leading lights, upon the Island of May and Mainland of Fife. But these, with other plans which have been under the writer’s consideration, would necessarily be attended with a great additional expence, which, in the present instance, it is not thought advisable to incur.

[Sidenote: Expence of the Carr Rock works.]

Owing to the necessarily slow progress of the operations at the Carr Rock, the works were carried on partly in connection with the new Light-house on the Isle of May, and with the assistance of the ordinary shipping of the Light-house establishment. This renders it difficult to give a distinct estimate of the expence of the Beacon; but in so far as it can be collected, it may be stated, including all charges, at about L. 5000.

Stations on the Coast of Scotland, where Light-houses have been suggested as still necessary.

Having now taken notice of the works of the Light-house Board, so far as they have been completed, up to and including part of the year 1823. We may farther advert to the Light-house on the Rhins of Ilay, founded on the 23d of August last. The Northern Light-houses accordingly amount to seventeen, erected at fourteen stations; and besides these, there are the Beacons of North Ronaldsay and the Carr Rock. The position of these establishments has not been chosen in regard to their respective distances from each other, but agreeably to the commercial importance and dangers connected with particular parts of the coast. Six of them, for instance, are on the Friths of Forth and Clyde, at not more than from 20 to 25 miles apart; while Kinnaird-Head, on the east coast, is about 72 miles from the Bell Rock, and 70 miles from the Pentland Skerries. The Light-house upon Island Glass, is about 130 miles south-west from the Pentland Skerries, and 120 miles northward from the Rhins of Ilay, being a stretch of 250 miles of coast, with only one Light-house intervening. It must therefore be obvious, that fourteen Light-house stations, which include two on the Isle of Man, are too few for the Scottish coast, rendered formidable and dangerous, by a vast number of islands and sunken rocks. The Commissioners have still, accordingly, a wide field of operations before them, which they are gradually occupying, as their funds will admit, and as the demands of navigation and commercial intercourse seem to require. In the Appendix, No. I. notice is taken of the most prominent points of land on the coast, which have been brought under consideration as fit Stations for additional Light-houses; and of these, one at Buchan-Ness, on the east coast, has already been fixed on by the Board.

Constitution of the Board, and System of Management.

[Sidenote: Constitution of the Board.]

The affairs of the Northern Light-houses are managed by the Commissioners named in the different acts already noticed; but the direction of the whole concerns of the establishment almost entirely devolves upon the Commissioners resident in Edinburgh, viz. The Lord Advocate and Solicitor-General, the Lord Provost, and Senior Magistrate of that City, and the different Sheriffs, Commissioners ex officio, who attend the Courts of Law. They hold frequent meetings, and bestow their time and labour without any salary or remuneration whatever. At their Meetings, all matters falling under the economy, and connected with the arrangement of the Light-houses, are regulated; full powers being conferred upon them as a Board to erect and maintain such additional Light-houses as they shall deem necessary; so that the system in this respect will at no very distant period be rendered complete.

[Sidenote: Rate of Duties.]

By the Statutes, the general rate of duty upon British ships is 2d. per register ton for passing one of, or all the Scottish Lights; together with certain local duties of ½d. per ton, connected with the Lights of May and Inchkeith; and for vessels which only pass the Lights on the Isle of Man, one farthing per ton is the sole duty. Foreign ships in all cases pay double rates. These duties are exigible at all the Ports in the United Kingdom, and are remitted to the General Collector at Edinburgh, at the end of three or six months, according to the extent of the respective collections.

The application of the Funds, and disposal of the Surplus, are fixed by the Acts; which also require, that an account of the moneys received and expended by the Board, be annually presented to the Lords of the Treasury, the Convention of Royal Burghs of Scotland, and that two copies be sent to the Board of Customs at Edinburgh, to be laid before both Houses of Parliament.

[Sidenote: Expence of Management, &c.]

The only permanent expence of management in the way of remuneration to the Officers of the Board, are a salary of L. 500 to the Engineer; L. 380 to the Clerk, who is also Cashier, and a fee of 50 guineas to the Auditor or Accountant. The revenue of the Board may be stated at about L. 24,000 yearly; and as the department of the Engineer is unconnected with the financial arrangements, this fund is, in fact, managed for about L. 432, 10s. per annum.

As to the practical arrangement, the Engineer visits all the Light-houses annually, and Reports to the Board upon the various works and operations connected with the different Light-houses,--the conduct of the light-keepers,--and also upon the stores and supplies required for the ensuing year,--and these, when approven of, are authorised and ordered by the Commissioners. All accounts for supplies are laid before the Board, and paid twice in the year.

At each ordinary Light-house, a Principal and an Assistant Light-keeper are appointed, whose salaries are respectively L. 45, and L. 35 per annum, besides a piece of ground, not less than 10 acres, with fuel, a suit of uniform clothes every three years, and some other small perquisites. At the Bell Rock, there are four light-keepers, three of whom are always at the Light-house, while one is, by rotation, on shore at the establishment at Arbroath for the families of the light-keepers. Their salaries are respectively L. 63, and L. 57, 15s., and for each of the two ordinary Assistants L. 52, 10s. with provisions for themselves while at the Rock, and apartments for their families ashore. The light-keepers act under certain Instructions, and make Monthly Returns to the Engineer’s office, copies of which will be found under Appendix, No. I.

[Sidenote: Shipping of the Establishment.]

The shipping belonging to the Light-house service, besides attending boats, for visiting Light-houses on insulated situations, consists of a vessel of about 50 tons register, which is chiefly employed in attending the Bell Rock, to supply the house with necessaries, and relieve the light-keepers in their turn. For general service, another vessel of 140 tons is kept, which carries oil and other stores for the lights, together with fuel and necessaries, for the use of the light-keepers, and artificers, with their implements and apparatus, for making repairs at the different stations. The Engineer makes his annual voyage of inspection in this vessel, which is provided with cabins suitable for the reception of such of the Commissioners as may occasionally visit the Light-houses.

[Sidenote: Voyages of Inspection.]

This duty has been undertaken by various members of the Board. In the Summer of 1814 a Committee, consisting of Mr Hamilton, Sheriff of Lanarkshire, Mr Erskine, Sheriff of Orkney, and Mr Duff, Sheriff of Forfarshire, with the Engineer, made a voyage to inspect the different Light-houses already erected, as also the most prominent of the stations on the coast, suggested for the erection of Additional Lights. They sailed from Leith in the Yacht, having for their companion Mr Walter Scott, and having visited the Light-houses on the Isle of May and Bell Rock, with the establishment at Arbroath, and that upon Kinnaird-Head in Aberdeenshire, they next landed at Sumburgh-head in Shetland, on which a Light-house has since been erected. Returning southward, they visited the Light-houses on the Start Point of Sanday, and the Pentland Skerries in Orkney. Then steering westward, they landed at Cape Wrath, one of the projected Stations for a Light-house. They next touched at the Light-house on Island-Glass, one of the Harris Isles. From thence they proceeded and landed upon the Rock called Skerryvore, lying off the Island of Tiree, and were satisfied of the practicability of erecting a Light-house there. Having visited the Light-house on Ennistrahul, on the coast of Donegal, one of the Irish Lights, and inspected their own establishments on the Mull of Kantire and Isle of Pladda, the Commissioners landed at Greenock, after a voyage of nearly seven weeks.

In July 1815, Mr Hamilton and Mr Duff, accompanied by the writer, sailed in the Yacht from the Troon for Liverpool, where they were joined by Sir William Rae; and after having had a meeting with Mr Gladstone on the subject of the Lights on Man, they sailed thither, and fixed on the Stations for the Lights on that Island, and on the Calf. They then proceeded to Dublin, and communicated with the Irish Board for the affairs of Light-houses, regarding certain arrangements for the advancement of the public service committed respectively to their charge. Mr Crossthwaite, and other Members of the Irish Board, accompanied them to the Light-house upon Houth: and having visited the Tuskar Light-house, situate on an insulated rock off the coast of Wexford, they bent their course to Holyhead, landed at the Light-house on the South Stack; and on their return surveyed the operations at the Light-house at Corsewall in Galloway then building, and having visited Pladda, landed at Greenock.

In the Summer of 1818, Messrs Hamilton and Duff, with the writer, sailed from Clyde, and inspected the Light-houses of Corsewall and on the Isle and Calf of Man. The Yacht being then bound through the British Channel, they availed themselves of the opportunity to visit some of the English Light-houses, particularly the Smalls, off St David’s Head, the Longships, off the Land’s End, the Edystone, the Caskets off Alderney, Hurst Castle, Dungeness, and the North Foreland. By these voyages, the Commissioners greatly enlarged their knowledge of the important concerns entrusted to their charge. Some of them had thus seen and examined all the Light-houses already established on the coast of Scotland, and most of the Sites in contemplation for new erections on the northern parts of the Island.

ACCOUNT

OF THE

BELL ROCK LIGHT HOUSE

BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE.

ACCOUNT

OF THE

BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE.

Spotted a typo or a problem in this chapter? Tell us

Chapter I

NAME OF THE ROCK,--SITUATION AND DIMENSIONS,--NATURAL HISTORY,--DEPTH OF WATER, AND CURRENT OF TIDES.

In the Introduction, I have given an account of the institution of the Board of Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; of the progress made in the erection of Light-houses on the coast of Scotland; the probable future operations of the Board, and the general economy or management of its affairs. I now come to treat in detail of the Bell Rock Light-house, as the chief object of this work; and, in the present chapter, I propose to give the general history, and a description of this dangerous Rock.

Name of the Rock.

[Sidenote: Name.]

[Sidenote: Origin of the Name.]

There is perhaps nothing in history more arbitrary, or difficult to account for, than the origin of proper names, nor, in general, any research more unsatisfactory, than a prolix inquiry into their etymology. The charts of the nautical surveyor are the proper records for the names of places upon the sea-coast; but such maps are comparatively of late invention. The first sea-chart which we hear of in England, was that brought from Spain in 1489, by Bartholomew Columbus, to illustrate his brother’s theory of the discovery of America; and the earliest, applicable to the coast of Scotland, is the chart of the voyage of James V., from the Firth of Forth, by the Orkney and Western Islands, to the Firth of Clyde and coast of Galloway, in the year 1540. This map was published at Paris by Nicolay D’Arfiville, Seigneur Du d’Aulphinois, &c. chief Cosmographer to the King of France, in 1583; and afterwards in Edinburgh, in the year 1688, by John Adair, F. R. S., Geographer for Scotland.

[Sidenote: Inch Cape.]

The French writer gives a hydrographical description of the coast of Scotland, in relation to the Royal voyage, from Leith to the Solway Firth , noticing the distances of places, the tides, and the rocks and sand-banks, or “dangers,” as they are more generally termed, which it was necessary to avoid. In adverting to the course from Leith by the east coast to Duncansby-Head, in Caithness, he observes, “Entre Finismes [Fifeness] et la pointe nommé Redde, xii mille à l’est sud-est du costé de la dicte pointe Redde, gist un danger appelé Inchkope.” This is unquestionably the Bell Rock, the inch or island of the Cape, and with a reference to the Redhead, to the north of Aberbrothock, the highest and most remarkable point on that coast. In Adair’s collection of nautical charts, and descriptive account of the eastern coast of Scotland, published in 1703, the Bell Rock is indifferently termed Scape and Cape; and the fishermen on the shores of Angus uniformly call it the Cape Rock. In some old charts, particularly by the Dutch, whose name for a headland is kappe, it is also called skape and scaup. It does not, however, seem that any inference can be drawn from these various appellations; and, although it were to be conjectured, that the Inch Cape was, at a very remote period, permanently above water, and in all respects an island, the most rational hypothesis would still remain, and be indeed confirmed, that this name was given it on account of the relation it bore, especially in situation, to the cape of Redhead.

[Sidenote: Bell Rock.]

It is perhaps more difficult to assign the true origin for the modern term of Bell Rock, by which this dangerous reef is now universally known. There is a tradition, that an Abbot of Aberbrothock directed a bell to be erected on the Rock, so connected with a floating apparatus, that the winds and sea acted upon it, and tolled the bell, thus giving warning to the mariner of his approaching danger. Upon similar authority, the bell, it is said, was afterwards carried off by pirates, and the humane intentions of the Abbot thus frustrated. This story has, by a modern poet, been made the subject of the ballad of “Sir Ralf the Rover,” which, for the reader’s amusement, is inserted in the Appendix, No. II.

[Sidenote: Erection of a Bell.]

Of the erection of the Bell, and of the machinery by which it was rung, if such ever existed, it would have been interesting to have had some authentic evidence. But, though a search has been made in the chartularies of the Abbey of Aberbrothock, preserved in the Advocates’ Library, and containing a variety of grants and other deeds, from the middle of the 13th to the end of the 15th century, no trace is to be found of the Bell Rock, or any thing connected with it. The erection of the bell is not, however, an improbable conjecture; and we can more readily suppose that an attempt of that kind was made, than that it had been intentionally removed, which in no measure accords with the respect and veneration entertained by seamen of all classes for land-marks; more especially, as there seems to be no difficulty in accounting for the disappearance of such an apparatus unprotected, as it must have been, from the raging element of the sea. It is not therefore unlikely, that the popular appellation by which this Rock has more recently been known, may owe its origin to the tradition of the Abbot’s humanity and public spirit; and when we consider that the churchmen of those days were well acquainted with the history of the celebrated Pharos of Alexandria, and may have heard of the fire-towers and sea-marks, which Mr Bryant, in his Mythology, conjectures existed in very remote times, it is natural to suppose, that these learned persons had, at a pretty early period, turned their attention to the subject, and had attempted, in the mode which has been figured, to point out and guard against the danger.

Amidst these speculations, it must not, however, be overlooked, that this Rock may have acquired its present name from its shape or figure; for at the commencement of the author’s operations, he remarked, that the site of the light-house, at some distance, had much the appearance of a large bell; and although this part was not more than four feet above the general level of the Rock, yet by supposing it to have been the nucleus of a larger mass, in the central part of the Rock, gradually wasted away by the washing of the sea, it may at a former period, from that resemblance, have obtained the appellation it now retains.

Situation and Dimensions.

[Sidenote: Situation.]

The Bell Rock may be described as a most dangerous sunken reef, situate on the northern side of the entrance of the great estuary or arm of the sea called the Firth of Forth; and as such directly affecting the safety of all vessels entering the Firth of Tay. Its position, as will be seen from the Charts, Nos. 3. and 4., which accompany this work, is in west longitude from Greenwich 2° 22´, and in north latitude 56° 29´. From St Abb’s Head in Berwickshire, it bears north by east per compass, (variation 27° 20´ west in the year 1819), and is distant about 30 miles; from the Island of May north-east 17 miles; and from the promontory or cape called the Redhead, in Forfarshire, it bears south-west, and is distant 14 miles. But in easterly directions no land intervenes between the Bell Rock and the coasts of Norway, Denmark, Germany and Holland.

[Sidenote: Dimensions.]

The dimensions of the north-eastern or higher compartment of the Rock where the light-house is built, are about 427 feet in length, and 230 feet in breadth. Besides these dimensions, the south-western reef extends about 1000 feet from the main rock. The greatest length, therefore, of the Bell Rock, which may be said to be dangerous to shipping, is about 1427 feet, and its greatest breadth is about 300 feet; but the outline or margin of the Rock is quite irregular, as will be seen from the Plates marked Nos. 5. and 6.

Natural History.

[Sidenote: Mineralogy.]

The Bell Rock consists of sandstone of a reddish colour, which in some places contains whitish and greenish spots of circular and oval forms, irregularly interspersed through the rock. It is of a fine granular texture, containing minute specks of mica. It is very hard, and, in the language of the artificer, is tough, and rather difficult to work; and in some parts it is found to rise in masses having a conchoidal fracture. Its angle of inclination with the horizon is about 15 degrees, dipping towards the south-east. The strata are thick and unequal, strongly cemented together, and running in the direction of north-east and south-west. The surface of the Rock is rugged, and full of cavities, so that walking upon it becomes rather difficult. A longitudinal section of the Bell Rock, taken in a north-easterly and south-westerly direction, may be described as consisting of a higher and a lower level. The cross section, taken in a south-easterly and north-westerly direction, exhibits the abrupt and pointed terminations of the strata, though it appears level when seen from a distance.

[Sidenote: Wasting effects of the Sea.]

[Sidenote: Natural History.]

It would be a speculation highly interesting to the geologist, to inquire into the probable early history of the Bell Rock, and the changes produced on it by the wasting effects of the waters of the ocean. When we consider the similarity of the red sandstone of this rock with the Redhead of Forfarshire, and opposite shores of Berwick in the neighbourhood of Dunglass, and take into view that there is a ridge or shallower part of the bottom, which extends a considerable way from the Bell Rock in the direction of these shores, we may infer, that the Rock itself had extended at one time much further. We are also enabled to trace the same formation, penetrating to the northward through Ross-shire, and quite across the kingdom, in a southern direction, to Cumberland. At a period indefinitely remote in the history of the globe, we may therefore imagine that one continuous bed of red sandstone had stretched across the Firth , forming a barrier by which the great collection of waters of the Forth and Tay have been pent up.

[Sidenote: Proofs of the Sea having occupied a higher level.]

In support of this opinion, we have the most unequivocal proofs of the waters of those friths having formerly occupied a much higher level. Of these we may notice the general appearance of their water-worn shores, and a bed of oyster-shells near Borrowstounness, which has been traced to the extent of three miles in length, and about two fathoms in thickness, lying in their natural state, but now upwards of 35 feet above the present level of the sea. Under these circumstances, and many others which might be adduced, it is not improbable that the Bell Rock has at one time been connected with the opposite coasts; and when we consider the general waste of the land, which is apparent in all directions from the impulse of the sea, it may at least be concluded, that at no very remote period, the Rock has been of much greater superficial extent, and above the level of the highest tides. Nor need we be surprised that such changes upon this remote and insulated spot should have been lost sight of, owing to their gradual and almost imperceptible effects, compared with the short period of the life of man, and in absence of all testimony excepting that which is oral.

[Sidenote: Plants.]

With regard to the marine Plants which grow upon the Bell Rock, we may observe that the lower parts of it are covered with the stronger or larger sorts, as the great tangle, Fucus digitatus, the roots of which rarely appear above the water, while it is seen at the depth of several fathoms, growing with the greatest luxuriance, and has often been observed by the author from a boat in fine weather, as a means for ascertaining, by the direction of the leaf, the changes of the currents of the tide at the bottom. The Badderlock, or Henware, Fucus esculentus, is found only on the north-eastern and south-eastern extremities of the Rock, growing at low water-mark of spring-tides, and seems to prefer the most rapid currents of the sea, and places where the heaviest breach takes place. In such situations it grows in great abundance at the Bell Rock, where it has been measured of the length of eighteen feet, and of proportionally increased breadth. Perhaps some of these plants are of considerable age; but at the works of the Carr Rock Beacon, off Fifeness, it was found that the growth of the badderlock was so very rapid, that the plant attained to the length of seven feet upon the new building, in the course of the winter and spring months. The higher parts of the Bell Rock abound with the smaller fuci, as Fucus mamillosus, and F. palmatus, or common dulse. F. lycopodiodes, alatus, and coccineus, are found on the older stalks of the great tangle, and F. subfuscus and confervoides occupy the smaller pools. In some places, the rocks are rendered slippery with Ulva compressa and umbilicalis; and the higher parts of the Rock, and the basement or lower courses of the light-house, are so covered with Conferva rupestris, as to produce the appearance of a sward of grass.

[Sidenote: Animals.]

Of the feathered tribe of animals at the Bell Rock, we notice the shag, cormorant, and herring-gull, which sometimes rest upon the Rock when in search of codlings and other small fishes. It also formed the resting-place of numerous seals at the commencement of the operations of the Light-house, but these amphibious animals, as well as the birds, have now almost entirely left it. The common crab and lobster are sometimes found here in the crevices of the rock. The Lepas balanoides, or acorn-shell, the common limpet, mussels of a small size, and the white buckey or Buccinum lapillus, abound on the rock. The Actinia crassicornis, Asterias glacialis and oculata, are common. A minute crustaceous insect, called, by Dr Leach, Limnoria terebrans (Lin. Trans, vol. XI. p. 371.), appeared in great numbers in the submersed wood work of the temporary erections on the Rock.

[Sidenote: Insect destructive to Timber.]

So destructive to timber is this small insect, that the Norway logs, laid down to support the temporary railways in 1807, when lifted in 1811, were found to have been reduced by its ravages from 10 inches square to 7 inches, or at the rate of about an inch in the year. The author having had occasion afterwards to examine the timber-bridge of Montrose, found the attacks of this insect upon the wooden piers to be so alarming as to endanger that fabric; and after many trials for the preservation of timber in such situations, the Trustees were ultimately induced to cover the upright beams with sheet-copper. Upon another occasion, when the author was called to inspect the Crinan Canal, he found the gates of the sea-locks so destroyed, chiefly by this little animal, that the locks lost seven feet of their depth of water in the course of the night. It is further remarked, that the deserted cavities, formed by the perforations of the Limnoria, frequently become the residence of larger marine insects, belonging to the Linnæan genus Oniscus.

[Sidenote: Experiments with pieces of timber trenailed to the Rock.]

In the year 1814, with a view to experiment on the effects of these destructive vermes, I fixed down specimens of teak-wood, oak, black birch, Memel and Norway fir timber, on the Bell Rock. The only specimen which remained imperforate till 1820, was the teak-wood. The rest were almost entirely destroyed in the course of two or three years. This may be regarded as a matter of some importance, in a national point of view, in directing the employment of teak-wood for the sea-lock gates of canals and for ship-timbers. From the excellency of the situation of the Bell Rock for such experiments, I have caused another set of timbers to be trenailed to the rock, in a situation where, like the former, they are occasionally uncovered by the water. These last pieces of timber were laid down in the month of October 1821. They are eighteen in number, each measuring 5 inches square, and 30 inches in length; and are of the following kinds, viz. British and American oaks and firs, Memel fir, Scotch elm, beech, sycamore, larch, teak-wood, mahogany, bullet-tree, locust-wood, and blue gum-wood from Van Dieman’s Land.

[Sidenote: Attempt to plant Muscles on the Rock.]

When the workmen first landed upon the Bell Rock, limpets of a very large size were common, but were soon picked up for bait. As the limpets disappeared, we endeavoured to plant a colony of muscles, from beds at the mouth of the river Eden, of a larger kind than those which seem to be natural to the rock. These larger muscles were likely to have been useful to the workmen, and might have been especially so to the light-keepers, the future inhabitants of the rock, to whom that delicate fish would have afforded a fresh meal, as well as a better bait than the limpet; but the muscles were soon observed to open and die in great numbers. For some time this was ascribed to the effects of the violent surge of the sea, but the Buccinum lapillus having greatly increased, it was ascertained that it had proved a successful enemy to the muscle. The buccinum being furnished with a proboscis capable of boring, was observed to perforate a small hole in the shell, and thus to suck out the finer parts of the body of the muscle; the valves of course opened, and the remainder of the fish was washed away by the sea. The perforated hole is generally upon the thinnest part of the shell, and is perfectly circular, of a champhered form, being wider towards the outward side, and so perfectly smooth and regular, as to have all the appearance of the most beautiful work of an expert artist. It became a matter extremely desirable to preserve the muscle, and it seemed practicable to extirpate the buccinum. But after we had picked up and destroyed many barrels of them, their extirpation was at length given up as a hopeless task. The muscles were thus abandoned as their prey: and in the course of the third year’s operations, so successful had the ravages of the buccinum been, that not a single muscle of a large size was to be found upon the rock; and even the small kind which breed there, are now chiefly confined to the extreme points of the rock, where it would seem their enemy cannot so easily follow them.

[Sidenote: Habits of Fishes.]

In speaking of the habits of fishes, it deserves notice that they have their particular grounds and shores which they frequent; for while the vessels attending the works at the Bell Rock were stationed there, different kinds of fish were caught as the depth and bottom varied. About high-water, and especially during ebb-tide, when the sea is smooth on the rock, the Podley (chiefly the fry of the coal-fish, but including also the young of the Gadus virens) is so numerous, as almost entirely to cover it from view. Near the rock, the small red cod is often found in abundance: at some distance, as the bottom, which is covered with marine plants near the rock, alters to coral, gravel, shell sand, fine sand and mud, all of which occur in a range of depths from 4 to 23 fathoms towards the north, different kinds of fish are found; first, the codling, which ceases to be wholly red, but becomes only speckled with reddish spots; then, upon the finer or mud grounds in the track of the tides of the Firth of Tay, whiting, haddock, flounder, and occasionally the sole. On the southern side of the rock, where the water deepens to 35 fathoms, the large white cod, in company with ling, conger-eel, halibut, skate, thornback, plaise, turbot, wolf-fish and large coal-fish are found. The dog-fish appears to be very general, and seems to prey chiefly upon the haddock and cod. The mackerel and gurnard are found together near the surface, and do not seem to be confined to particular grounds, but occur wherever the water is of a considerable depth. Herrings are found in the bays of the opposite shores in great abundance at the fishing season, when they are understood to be migrating towards the south. It has often been observed, in the course of the Bell Rock operations, that, during the cold weather of spring and autumn, and even at all seasons, in stormy weather, when the sea is much agitated by wind, the fishes disappear entirely from the vicinity of the rock, probably retreating into much deeper water, from which they do not seem to return, until a change of weather has taken place; so much was this attended to by the seamen employed on this service, that they frequently prognosticated and judged of the weather from this habit of the fishes, as well as from the appearances of the sky.

Depth of Water.

[Sidenote: Depth of Water.]

[Sidenote: Depth of Water upon the Bell Rock.]

At the time of high-water of spring-tides, the south-western reef is about 16 feet, or nearly the whole rise of the tide, under the surface of the water; while the part of the rock on which the light-house is built, is about 12 feet below high water-mark of spring-tides: At low-water of neap-tides, hardly any part of the rock is visible: But at low-water of spring-tides, the general level of the north-eastern end where the light-house is built, is about four feet perpendicular above the level of the sea, though particular points measure six or even seven feet in height above the low-water mark of spring-tides.

[Sidenote: Depth at the distance of 100 yards, and upwards from it.]

At the distance of about 100 yards from the rock in all directions, excepting on the south-western reef, there is a depth of water varying from two to three fathoms at low water of spring tides. On the north-west side, or in the direction of the shores of Forfar and Fife, the greatest depth is 23 fathoms; but on the south-eastern or seaward side, in the direction of the dip or inclination of the strata, the water deepens more suddenly to 35 fathoms; in the same direction from the rock, however, the soundings again become less, being only 22 fathoms upon Mars Bank, distant about 33 miles; this bank appears to be a deposition formed by the joint operation of the waters of the Friths of Forth and Tay, influenced by the great tidal wave of the German Ocean. It may here be noticed as a fact connected with the depth of the German Ocean, that at Queensferry passage, in the Firth of Forth, the depth of the water is about 35 fathoms, while the greatest depth of the sea across to Denmark, does not exceed 45 fathoms. The depths of the German Ocean will be seen, by inspecting Chart No. 3., where sectional lines are delineated between various points of Great Britain and the opposite Continent, on which the reader will see the relative depths marked by shaded lines, in a new and it is hoped a perspicuous manner.

Current of the Tides.

[Sidenote: Currents of the Tide.]

[Sidenote: Tides at the Bell Rock.]

The tides at the Bell Rock, are observed to follow the same laws as on the opposite shores of the Firth of Forth. The currents along the coast take their direction from the figure of the land, and, in their course, they are therefore occasionally deflected from, and inclined towards it. At the Bell Rock the flood-tide sets south-west, and the ebb-tide north-east, being nearly in the direction of the shores of Forfar and Kincardine. The velocity of the water in spring-tides, or when the sun and moon are in conjunction, and in opposition, is about three miles per hour, but in neap-tides, or at the quadratures of the moon, the current is only at the rate of about one mile per hour. On the days of new and full moon it is high-water upon the Bell Rock at half past one o’clock, being about the same periodic time as at the harbour of Arbroath, or nearest point of the mainland. In the ordinary state of the weather, the perpendicular rise and fall of the sea at the Bell Rock, in spring-tides, is 15 feet, and in neap-tides, 8 feet; but so much depends upon the direction of a prevailing tract of winds, that the tides are often found to vary from 1 to 3 feet above and below these numbers. This irregularity in the tides of the German Ocean and its subsidiary friths or inland seas will be easily accounted for, by considering the effect of westerly winds passing for a length of time over the Atlantic, which must naturally force an undue quantity of water from thence into the entrance of the North Sea, between the coasts of Scotland and Norway; while the Strait of Dover, to the southward, from the same cause, is gorged by the surplus waters of the British Channel flowing in an opposite direction, and checking the tide of the German Ocean. When the winds blow from southerly and easterly directions, the reverse of this happens, and the waters are then proportionally low.

[Sidenote: In and Off shore Currents.]

A curious anomaly connected with the flowing and ebbing of the sea, in the early part of each tide, is observable in the contrary currents which take place along the shore, and at a distance from it. For example, the flood-tide begins to flow in many situations two or even three hours sooner on the shore than at the distance of from one mile to four miles in the offing. The same thing also happens with regard to the ebb-tide, which begins to fall and run in a contrary direction to the flood-tide, two or three hours sooner on the shore than at a distance. These effects are very different from the state of things three or four leagues from the land, or in the open sea, where the lateral motion of the tide-waters is scarcely sensible. That an extensive tract of coast should produce changes on the current of the tides, is perhaps what we should expect; but it is somewhat curious to find the same appearances connected with small islets, and, as in the case of the Bell Rock, even with an insulated reef, situate at the distance of 12 miles from the land, and sunk to the depth of from 2 to 3 fathoms under the surface of high-water. So strikingly observable is this, that the tide begins to ebb about two hours sooner on the Bell Rock than at the short distance of one mile from it. In the course of the light-house operations this was rendered sufficiently obvious, by the swinging round of the several vessels at their moorings according to the flood and ebb tides. For example, the Floating Light-ship was moored about three miles in a north-west direction from the Bell Rock, and the moorings of the Tender and two Stone Lighters, were respectively laid down at the distance of ¾ and ½ mile from it, as will be seen from Plate V. Now, these vessels were all found to swing to the tide at periods proportional to their distance from the rock. Although it may, therefore, seem strange, that this comparatively small object should affect the tides in its vicinity in a manner similar to the shores of an extensive coast; yet, as the rock shelves outwards, with an extensive base, especially on the northern side, it must impede the under current of the tide, and indeed forcibly proves the existence of such under currents.

[Sidenote: Not accounted for by Writers on the subject.]

To account for these in and off shore tides, or central and marginal streams, would be interesting. But to what cause shall we ascribe them? Sir Isaac Newton, and the other eminent philosophers who have followed that great man in considering the theory of the tides, confine their attention chiefly to an explanation of the influences of the sun and moon, and the laws of gravitation, in affecting the waters of the ocean, leaving it to the result of experience and observation to account for such anomalies as those to which we now allude. It is noticed by Adair, Mackenzie, and other nautical surveyors, that the tides run longer upon the shore than in the offing, and the advantage of working a ship with in and off shore tides, is familiar to every mariner. The existence of these opposite currents was also known to the author, prior to the commencement of the Bell Rock works, but they had not struck him so forcibly till that period. For here, even after the flood-tide had overflowed the rock, and put a stop to the operations, the boats in carrying the artificers on board of the Tender, had still to row against the current of a strong ebb-tide.

[Sidenote: Currents along Shore considered as Eddy-tides.]

It would be foreign to this work to enter into the theory of the tides generally; all, therefore, that is here proposed, is to endeavour to account for these in and off shore currents. In doing this, however, it will be necessary to observe, that the great wave or “theoretical tide,” as it has been termed by the late eminent Professor Robison, is produced by the united attraction of the sun and moon, which, between the Tropics, has been calculated by philosophers to raise the water from 8 to 14 feet perpendicularly. It is observable, that the attractions of these heavenly bodies elevate the parts of the ocean to which they are vertical, without having any direct tendency to progressive or lateral motion. The currents along our coasts, may therefore be considered merely as Eddy-tides, occasioned by the interposition of the land, which obstructs the undulating motion incident to the rise or fall of a fluid. In this manner the land may be said to displace a portion of the tidal waters which have been elevated above the medium level of the sea; and were it not for such obstruction, the great waves of the tide might be supposed to undulate indefinitely over the expanse of the ocean. To compare small things with great, these effects may be conceived as in some degree exemplified, by the disturbing effect of a vessel passing along a navigable canal, or the undulations which are observable in the wake of a ship or wheels of a steam-boat in motion on a smooth sea.

[Sidenote: Progress of the Great Waves of the Tides.]

The great wave which supplies the British tides, appears to be propagated between the coast of Labrador and Greenland, on the one hand, and the European shores on the other; and this great wave seems to be divided into two lesser waves. One of these flows between Ireland and the coast of France, into the British and St George’s Channels; while the other enters by the North Sea into the German Ocean; and in its course from north to south, supplies all the friths, rivers, and bays connected with it, invariably in the form of In and Off shore tides, which are every where observable along the margin of this great basin. This northern wave is found to occupy about 12 hours in flowing southward from the 58th to the 52d degree of latitude, or from the Orkney Islands to the numerous Sand-banks which pervade and encumber the apex of the German Ocean, where the currents become extremely desultory and irregular. The coast of the British Isles, accordingly, may be said to, displace a portion of this northern wave, and thus to produce the irregularities which we are endeavouring to account for.

[Sidenote: Progressive periods of High-Water in the Firth of Forth.]

At present, we shall confine our attention to the tides of the Firth of Forth. Here, as on other parts of the coast, the tidal waters have a tendency to flow towards the shores and higher parts of the Forth, till the instant of high-water upon the shore, when the tide begins to ebb, and run in a contrary direction. A central stream, however, continues to run with unabated force, as flood-tide, during two or even three hours longer, as before noticed, according to the situation and local circumstances of the coast. It appears, from a comparison of the several periods of high-water on the shores of the Firth of Forth, as nearly as some of them could be ascertained, that the precise time of high-water becomes later and later in the same tide, as we proceed westward; at the Bell Rock, for example, it is high-water on the days of new and full moon, as before noticed, at ½ past 1 o’clock; at the Carr Rock, at ¾ past 1; at Elie, still further up the Firth , at 2; Kinghornness, at ¼ past 2; Queensferry, at ¾ past 2; and at Alloa, at ¾ past 3 o’clock. The off-shore stream of the tide continues to flow proportionally longer till it has supplied the higher parts of this estuary with its portion of tidal waters; and in like manner, the central stream of ebb-tide continues its course till these waters are again run off.

[Sidenote: Currents at the Mouth of the Dee and other Rivers.]

In many points, it is found, that the operation of the tidal waters of extensive arms of the sea, bears a close resemblance to what is observable upon the small scale in the currents of rivers, especially at their junction with the ocean. An interesting example of this occurs on the river Dee, which falls rapidly into the harbour of Aberdeen. Here the author having occasion to make some observations on the tides in the summer of 1812, stationed several assistants at low-water mark, between the entrance of the harbour and the bridge, about two miles up the river. The waters of the Dee, even at the entrance of the harbour, have almost a constant current seaward, notwithstanding the opposite direction of the flood-tide of the Ocean. On the occasion alluded to, one of his assistants, a very intelligent shipmaster, continued at his post while the water flowed up to his middle; and, when accosted about his situation, he significantly observed, “That it was rather extraordinary, as the stream had never ceased to indicate the continuance of an ebb-tide, while the water was still rising upon his body.”

[Sidenote: Water salt at bottom and fresh at top.]

In connection with these observations on the tides, some experiments were also made with an instrument adapted for lifting water from considerable depths, without the possibility of its intermingling with the surface water. By means of this instrument, the water at the bottom of the Dee, at Aberdeen, was found to be salt, while that at the surface was quite fresh. These streams of fresh and salt water run in distinct currents, and in contrary directions, the salt water, from its greater specific gravity, flowing at the bottom of the river, and fluctuating with the level of the ocean, while the fresh water is actually lifted upwards, and continues all the while to flow seaward on the surface of the salt water. Towards the point of high-water, however, the flood-tide gains strength on the margin of the basin of the harbour, where the water becomes salt, and forms an eddy-tide in a contrary direction to the central stream, which is observed still to run toward the sea. Having made similar observations on the waters of the Thames, the Garonne, and other rivers, with nearly the same results, after making allowance for the more level state of the country, in the track of these great streams,--it is concluded, that the currents at the embouchure of rivers bear a strong resemblance to the operation of the in and off shore tides of the ocean.

[Sidenote: Phenomena of in and off shore Tides accounted for.]

We further observe, that the great wave of the German Ocean produces its tides in regular succession, and at stated periods, as it moves from north to south; but the tides of the more inland seas are subject to many irregularities, both in their periodic times, and in the direction of their currents. Let us suppose, then, that we have arrived at the instant of high-water on the shores at the entrance of the Firth of Forth, and that the tidal waters are then moving in a body, and with a certain pressure, towards the higher parts of the Firth , and even affecting the river above the bridge of Stirling. We find, that at the entrance of this estuary, on the days of new and full moon, it is high-water at a quarter past one o’clock; but at Alloa, situate 70 miles above the Bell Rock, it is not high-water till about two hours and a half later. The in-shore tidal waters having to encounter the shelving shores, islands, sunken rocks, and projecting points of land, which lie in their course up the Firth , acquire lateral as well as perpendicular motion, and being thus checked in their progress, are brought sooner to a maximum state than the off-shore stream, which flows in deeper water, and comparatively free of obstruction, till it reaches its ultimate limits; though it gradually diminishes in breadth, till the stream of the new tide gaining strength becomes general; and the central current, formerly running in a contrary direction, at length disappears, and takes the course of the new tide.

We would, therefore, be understood to ascribe this anomaly in the flowing and ebbing of the sea, to the obstruction which the current of its waters meets not only at the surface or margin, but at the bottom, which, from the variety of the soundings of the depths, appears to be as various as the face of the land. A striking proof of this is afforded at the Bell Rock: on the northern side of which there are 11 fathoms, at the distance of about three quarters of a mile; while, on the southern side, and at a similar distance, the water deepens to 35 fathoms; so that a perpendicular section of this rock under water forms a precipitous declivity, such as we are quite accustomed to see on the land. Now, if we apply this irregular conformation of the bottom of the sea, to the production of the in and off shore tides, and conceive that the tidal currents extend their motion to the bottom, it must be evident, that this obstruction presented to the stream will bring the tides to a maximum state sooner on the northern side of the rock, where the water is so much shallower, than on the southern side. This is also agreeable to observation; for, the tides upon the Bell Rock begin to flow and ebb one hour sooner than at the distance of about three quarters of a mile from it on the northern side, and about two hours and a half sooner than at the same distance on the southern side. The marginal current is thus checked by the shallowness of the water, and the projecting points of land; while the central stream, flowing comparatively without obstruction, continues to run till the most inland creeks are supplied with tidal water; and vice versâ, it continues its stream outwards, till these waters are again run off.

[Sidenote: Progressive times of high-water.]

The progressive times of high-water, at intermediate points between the Bell Rock and the port of Alloa in the Firth of Forth, appear to follow the same general law, as the great wave of the German Ocean in its progress from the Orkneys southward. These observations on the tides of the Forth apply equally to the Firth and River of Tay, and indeed to all the tributary streams and arms of the sea which communicate with the German Ocean, according to their local situations and magnitudes.

[Sidenote: Tides of the Mediterranean and Baltic Seas.]

If due allowance be made for the peculiar situation and circumstances of the Mediterranean and Baltic seas, it is apprehended, from all that we have been able to learn of the operation of the currents at the Strait of Gibraltar, and Sound of the Cattigate, that these seas are supplied and discharged by in and off shore tides or currents, under certain modifications, and making due allowance for local circumstances, in the same manner as on all other parts of the coast.

I have been thus particular relative to the in-shore and off-shore tides, because they appear in a very puzzling form to the mariner, while writers on the theory of the tides are almost silent on this subject.

Spotted a typo or a problem in this chapter? Tell us