America: Being the Latest, and Most Accurate Description of the Nevv VVorld (part 3 of 5)
New-found Land is situated betwixt the Degrees of forty six and fifty three of Northern Latitude, and is divided from the Continent of America by an Arm of the Sea, in like distance as England is from France. The Island is as large as England in length, greater in breadth, and lies near the Course that Ships usually hold in their Return from the West-Indies, and is near the mid-way between Ireland and Virginia.
[Sidenote: Temperature.]
We shall not much need to commend the wholsom temperature of this Countrey, seeing the greatest part thereof lieth above three Degrees nearer to the South, than any part of England doth, so that even in the Winter it is pleasant and healthful as England is.
[Sidenote: Nature of the Inhabitants.]
The natural Inhabitants of the Countrey, as they are but few in number, so are they something a rude and salvage People, having neither knowledge of God, nor living under any kind of Civil Government. In their Habits, Customs, and Manners, they resemble the Indians of the Continent, from whence it is to be suppos’d they come; they live altogether in the North and West part of the Countrey, which is seldom frequented by the English; but the French and Biscainers (who resort thither yearly for the Whale-fishing, and also for the Cod-fish) report them to be an ingenuous and tractable People (being well us’d) and very ready to assist them with great labour and patience, in the killing, cutting, and boyling of Whales, and making the Trayn-Oyl, without expectation of other Reward than a little Bread, or some such small Hire.
[Sidenote: Commodious Harbors.]
It hath the most commodious Harbours in the World, and the most safe Seas to Sail to it, there being not any Islands, Rocks or Sands between the Lands-End in England and New-found Land, and for the most part it is not above three or four Weeks Sail thither, and less coming back; and is the most commodiously situated for the discovering of the North-West Passage, and other Inlets into the South Sea; whereby the ordinary Voyages to China, Japan, and the East-Indies, are much eas’d in the expence of Time and Charge; and the most open to Trade to all Parts, of any Island of the West-Indies.
On the East side of the Land, are the Bays of Trinity and Conception, which stretch themselves towards the South-West.
Tor-Bay and Capelin-Bay lying also on the East, stretch themselves towards the West.
The Bays of Trespassey, St. Mary, Borrel, and Plaisance, on the South part of the Land, extend their Arms towards the North.
The great Bay of St. Peters lying on the South-West side of the Land, and Southerly from the great River of Canada, being about twenty Leagues distant, the same stretcheth toward the East.
Trinity Harbour lies in near forty nine Degrees of North Latitude, being very commodiously seated to receive Shipping in seasonable Weather, both to Anchor in, and from thence to Sail towards either the East, West, or South. It hath three Arms or Rivers, long and large enough for many hundred Sail of Ships to moare fast at Anchor near a Mile from the Harbours Mouth. Close adjoyning to the Rivers side, and within the Harbour, is much open Land, well stor’d with Grass sufficient, Winter and Summer, to maintain great store of ordinary Cattel, besides Hogs and Goats, if such Beasts were carried thither; and it standeth North most of any Harbor in the Land, where our Nation practiseth Fishing: It is near unto a great Bay lying on the North side of it, call’d The Bay of Flowers; to which Place no Ships repair to Fish, in regard of sundry Rocks and Ledges lying even with the Water, and full of danger.
The bottom of the Bay of Trinity lieth within four Leagues through the Land South-West, Southerly from Trinity, as by experience is found; and it comes near unto the Bay of Trespassey, and the bottom of some other Bays.
Trespassey in like manner is as commodious a Harbour, lying in a more temperate Climate, almost in forty six Degrees of North Latitude, and is both fair and pleasant, and a wholsom Coast free from Rocks and Shelves; so that of all other Harbours it lies the most South of any in the Land, and most conveniently to receive our Shipping, passing to and from Virginia and the Bermuda Islands; and also any other Shipping that shall pass to and from the River of Canada, and the Coast thereof, because they usually pass, and so return in the sight of the Land of Trespassey, and also for some other purposes, as shall be partly declar’d in the following Discourse.
[Sidenote: Fruitful Soil.]
The Soil of this Countrey in the Valleys and sides of the Mountains is so fruitful, as that in divers places the Summer naturally produceth without Tillage, great plenty of green Pease, and Fitches, fair, round, full, and as wholsom as ours in England.
[Sidenote: Berries and Fruits.]
Of Berries and Fruits, there grows Strawberries, red and white, and as fair Raspice-berries and Goose-berries as there be in England; as also Bilberries, which are call’d by some Whortes, and many other delicate Berries peculiar to the Countrey, in great abundance. Likewise small Pears, Cherries, Filberds, &c.
[Sidenote: Herbs and Flowers.]
There are also Herbs for Sallets and Broth, as Parsly, Alexander, Sorrel, &c. and also Flowers, as the red and white Damask Rose, with other kinds, which are most beautiful and delightful, both to the sight and smell. And questionless, the Countrey is stor’d with many Physical Herbs, though their Vertues are not known.
When Corn was first Sow’n here, it was observ’d to grow very fair, the increase was great, and the Grain very good; and several sorts of Kitchin Plants that have been Set here, have prov’d very well.
[Sidenote: Beasts.]
In divers parts of the Countrey there is great store of Deer, and some Hares, many Foxes, Squerrils, Beavers, Martins and Otters, yielding excellent Furrs, Wolves and Bears, with other sorts of Beasts, serving as well for Necessity, as for Profit and Delight.
[Sidenote: Birds.]
Variety both of Land and Water-Fowl is in this Countrey infinite: The chief Land-Fowl, besides a great number of small Birds, that live by scraping their Food from the Earth in the hardest Winter, are Hawks, great and small Partridges, Thrush, and Thrussels abundance, very fat; as also Filladies, Nightingales, and such like, which sing most pleasantly. There are also Birds that live by prey, as Ravens, Gripes, Crows, &c. For Water-Fowl, there is certainly so good, and as much variety, as in any part of the World, as Geese, Ducks, Pigeons, Gulls, Penguins, and many other sorts. These Penguins are as big as Geese, but do not flye, for they have but a little short Wing; and they multiply so infinitely upon a certain flat Island, that men drive them from thence upon a Board into their Boats by hundreds at a time, as if God had made the innocency of so poor a Creature to become such an admirable Instrument for the sustentation of Man: And also Godwits, Curlews, and such like; which Fowl do not onely serve those that Trade thither for Food, but also they are a great furthering to divers Ships Voyages, because the abundance of them is such, that the Fisher-men do bait their Hooks with the quarters of Sea-Fowl on them; and therewith some Ships do yearly take a great part of their Fishing Voyages with such Bait, before they can get others.
[Sidenote: Springs.]
The fresh Waters and Springs of that Countrey are many in number, and withall so very pleasant, delightful and wholsom, that no Countrey in the World hath better: And Fewel for Fireing, no where more plentiful.
[Sidenote: Trees.]
In like manner there is great abundance of Trees fit to be employ’d in other serviceable uses: There are Fir and Spruce-Trees, sound, good, and fit to Mast Ships with, and as commodious for Boards and Buildings as those of Norway; and out of these come abundance of Turpentine. Moreover the Pine and Birch-Trees here are scarce to be compar’d for heighth and greatness.
The Rivers also and Harbours are generally stor’d with delicate Fish, as Salmons, Peals, Eels, Herrings, Mackrel, Flounders, Launce, Capelin, Cod, and Trouts, the fairest, fattest and sweetest, that ever were seen in these Parts. The like for Lobsters, Cra-fish, Mussles, and other variety of Shell-fish.
The Seas likewise all along the Coast, do plentifully abound in other sorts of Fish, as Whales, Spanish Mackrel, Dorrel, Pales, Herrings, Hogs, Porposes, Seals, and such like Royal Fish, &c.
But the chief Commodity of New found Land yet known, and which is grown to be a setled Trade, and that it may be much better’d by an ordinary Plantation there, (if the Traders thither will take some better course than formerly they have done, as shall be declared) is the Cod-fishing upon that Coast, by which our Nation and many other Countreys are enrich’d.
Almost incredible is the benefit of the Fish, which the French, Biscainers, and Portuguese fetch yearly from this Coast of New-found Land, and the Bank, which lieth within twenty five Leagues from the South Cape of that Countrey, where the French use to Fish Winter and Summer, usually making two Voyages every year thither. To which Places, and to the Coast of Canada, which lieth near unto it, are yearly sent from those Countreys, more than four hundred Sail of Ships.
This Island of Terra Nova belongs properly and justly to the Crown of England, having been under the sole Jurisdiction of the English from the first Discovery thereof, which was by Sir Sebastian Cabot, Employ’d by King Henry the Seventh, to find out some other part of America, than what had been discover’d by Columbus, as hath been above declar’d in several places.
Afterwards King Henry the Eighth continu’d the English Interest there, and Employ’d one Rutt into that Island, in order to the Plantation thereof.
Queen Elizabeth no less careful to preserve that Plantation, sent Sir Humphrey Gilbert, a Devonshire Knight, to plant a Colony there, the better to secure the same, and to increase Trading there; and accordingly the said Sir Humphrey with two good Ships and a Pinnace in her Name, took possession of that Countrey, in the Harbour of St. Johns. He Sail’d from thence towards Virginia, and by reason of some unhappy direction in his Course, the greatest Ship he had struck upon Shelves on the Coast of Canada, and was there lost, with most part of the Company in her; and he himself, being then in a small Pinnace of twenty Tun, in the company of his Vice-Admiral (Captain Hays) returning towards England, in a great Storm, was overwhelm’d in the Sea, and so perish’d.
In the Year 1608. it was undertaken anew by John Guy, a Merchant of Bristol, and with so good success, that the Colony in a short time were well furnish’d with Wheat, Rye, Barley, and other Grain of their own Sowing, with Turnips, Coleworts, and abundance of other necessary things, not without some probable hopes of Metals, a certain and plentiful Trade of Sables, Musk, and other rich Commodities.
[Sidenote: The Province of Avalon in New-found Land.]
In the Year 1620. Sir George Calvert Knight, then principal Secretary of State, and a Privy Councellor to King James the First of England, &c. purchas’d a part of New-found Land, which was afterwards in the Year 1623. granted to him and his Heirs by Patent from the said King, under the Great Seal of England, bearing Date the seventh of April, in the One and twentieth Year of his Reign: by which means the said Tract of Land was erected into a Province, and at the Instance of the said Sir George Calvert, call’d Avalon, from Avalon in Sommerset-shire, where Christianity was first Planted in England.
This Province lies in the forty seventh Degree of Northern Latitude, and is thus bounded: It begins Southerly from the middle part of a certain Neck of Land or Promontory, situate between the two Harbours, Fermose and Aquafort; and from thence following the Shore towards the North unto the middle part, or half way over a little Harbour, call’d in that regard Petit Port, or Petit Harbour, which boundeth upon the South part of the Plantation of St. Johns, including the one half of a certain fresh River, that falleth into the said Port of Petit Harbour; and so tending along the South Border of the said Colony of St. Johns, extendeth it self to a certain little Bay, commonly call’d Salmon Cove, lying on the South side of the Bay of Conception, including the one half of the River that falleth into the said Cove, as also one half of the Cove it self; from whence passing along the Shore of the said Bay towards the South, and reaching unto the bottom thereof, where it meets with the Lands of the fore-mention’d John Guy, nam’d Sea-Forrest, is bounded with a certain River or Brook, which there falleth into the Sea, and from the Mouth of the said Brook ascendeth unto the farthest Spring or Head thereof; from thence passing towards the South for six Miles together along the Borders of the said John Guy’s Plantation, and there crossing over Westward in a right Line, reacheth unto the Bay of Placentia, and the space of one League within the said Bay from the Shore thereof; whence turning again towards the South, passeth along the Harbour of Placentia, with the like distance from the Shore, and descending unto New Falkland towards the North and West part thereof, stretcheth it self in a right Line Eastward, continuing the whole Southerly length upon the Bounds of the said New Falkland, unto the middle part or Point of the Promontory, or Neck of Land before mention’d, between the Ports Fermose and Aquafort; at which place is describ’d and finish’d the Perambulation of the whole Precinct, whose Extent may be thus computed, commencing from the Promontory between the Ports Fermose and Aquafort, which is fifty or sixty Miles from South to North distant from Petit Harbour; from whence crossing Westward to the Bay of Placentia, is judg’d to be sixty Miles more or upwards, from East to West.
And thereby was also granted to the said Sir George Calvert and his Heirs, all Islands and Islets, within ten Leagues of the Eastern Shore of the said Region towards the East, together with the Fishing of all sorts of Fish, saving unto the English free liberty of Fishing, as well in the Seas as in the Ports and Creeks of the Province aforesaid, and the Priviledges of salting and drying their Fish upon the Shores of the said Province, as heretofore they reasonably us’d and enjoy’d the same, so as they do no injury or notable loss or detriment unto the Lord Proprietary, his Heirs and Assigns, or to the Inhabitants of the said Province, in the Ports, Creeks, and Shores aforesaid, and especially in the Woods growing within the said Province.
And by the said Patent all Royal Jurisdictions and Prerogatives, both Military and Civil, within the said Province and Islands thereunto belonging, were farther granted to the said Sir George Calvert and his Heirs, and he and they thereby created the true and absolute Lords and Proprietaries of the said Province, saving the Allegiance due to His Majesty, His Heirs and Successors, to be held of them in Capite, yielding and paying unto them therefore a white Horse, when, and as often as any of them shall come into the said Province, and the fifth part of all Gold and Silver Oar which should be found there.
Sir George Calvert, before the obtaining of this Patent, had caus’d a fair House and Fort to be built in the said Province, at a place call’d Ferryland, and in the Year 1624. having obtain’d a Dismission from his Employment of Secretary of State, and being then created Lord Baltemore of Baltemore in Ireland, he did in the Year 1627. Transport himself to Avalon, to inspect his Concerns there in Person; from whence returning the same year, he Embarqu’d himself again, together with his Lady and all his Family, except his eldest Son, for Avalon the year following; at which time (there being then War between England and France) he redeem’d above twenty Sail of English Ships, which had been taken there that year by French Men of War, whereof one Monsieur De la Rade had the chief Command, and shortly after took six French Fishing-Ships upon that Coast, and sent them the same year, with a great many French-men Prisoners, into England. Coming thence, he left a Deputy there, and continu’d the Plantation till his Death, which was in April 1632. After whose Decease it descended of right to his Son and Heir Cecil, now Lord Baltemore; who thereupon sent one Captain William Hill as his Deputy thither, to take possession thereof, and to manage his Interest there for him. Captain Hill, according to his Commission, shortly after repair’d thither, and liv’d some years at the Lord Baltemore’s House at Ferryland above mention’d.
In the thirteenth Year of King Charles the First, of England, &c. about the Year of our Lord 1638. Marquess Hamilton, Earl of Pembroke, Sir David Kirk, and others, under pretence that the Lord Baltemore had deserted that Plantation, obtain’d a Patent of all New-found Land, wherein Avalon was included, and shortly after dispossess’d the Lord Baltemore of his Mansion House in Ferryland, and other Rights there, and during the late Rebellion in England kept possession; but His now Majesty King Charles the Second, immediately after his most happy Restauration in the Year 1660, upon the now Lord Baltemore’s Petition, thought fit to refer the whole Matter to be Examin’d by Sir Orlando Bridgeman, then Lord-Chief-Justice, now Lord Keeper of the Great Seal of England, and others, to report the true state thereof to His Majesty, together with their Opinions thereupon: The Referrees accordingly, upon full hearing of Council on both sides, certifi’d, That they conceiv’d the said Patent to Sir George Calvert, to be a good Patent, in force, and not avoided by the later to Sir David Kirk and others; and that the Title and Interest to the said Province did therefore belong to the Lord Baltemore. Whereupon His Majesty, on the twentieth of March in the same Year, Order’d the Possession thereof to be re-deliver’d to his Lordship, which was accordingly executed: Since which time his Lordship has peaceably enjoy’d the possession thereof, and continues the Plantation to this day, by deputing Lieutenants there from time to time, for the better Government of that Province, the rest of New-found Land remaining still to the aforesaid Proprietors, claiming by the Patent of 13 Car. 1.
The Commodities that are either by Art or Nature produc’d there, are the same with those of the remainder of New-found Land. The Winter there is extream cold, the Summer very hot, but withal pleasant; and during that Season there is great plenty of Pasture for Cattel.
The Coast of this Province is very safe, and as well furnish’d with variety of bold and pleasant Harbors, as any other part of New-found Land; where the English likewise Fish for Cod, the lesser sort whereof is call’d Poor-John, which is there caught in great abundance, especially at Ferryland, and in the Bay of Bulls. Besides these two there are divers other excellent Harbors on the Eastern Shore of Avalon, as Capling Bay, Cape Broyle, Brittus, Isle of Spears, Barrom Cove, Whitburns Bay, and Petit Harbour above mention’d. On the West are the Bay of Placentia, and several other good Harbors.
There are no Indians in Avalon, and but few English, by reason of the excessive Cold in Winter, though Sir David Kirk and his Lady, and also his Family, liv’d in the Lord Baltemore’s House at Ferryland for the space of ten years and upwards.
The Soil seems to promise great store of Mines, which probably may in time be discover’d. The late Lord Baltemore took accidentally a piece of Oar up that lay there upon the surface of the Earth, and brought it with him into England, which was found upon trial to yield a greater proportion of Silver, than the Oar of Potosi in the West-Indies, but hitherto no Mine of it hath been discover’d there.
The Trade of Fishing being of so great concernment to the Nation of England, the same (if it be well manag’d in this Island of Terra Nova) will employ every year above two hundred Sail of English Ships, and ten thousand Mariners, besides the great benefit which may accrue unto the Nation by Imposition upon Strangers there, which would amount to several thousands of Pounds per Annum; with which those Coasts may be Guarded, and Ships Trading thither secur’d: besides the great Customs by the Ships call’d The Sacks (being commonly in great numbers every year) who carry Fish from New-found Land into the Straights, France, Portugal, and Spain, and who bring their Returns into England, as Bullion, and all other native Commodities of those Countreys.
If the Island were well fortifi’d, we might Command all those of other Nations that come to Fish in New-found Land, to pay Contribution in Fish or otherwise, for their Priviledge to Fish there, the said Island being first Planted by English, and pertaining to the Kingdom of England; or if occasion should require, they might be utterly debarr’d of Fishing there.
The Trade of Fishing is of so great concernment to France, Spain, Portugal, the Straights, and other Parts, that they cannot well be without that yearly Supply in Fish which comes from that Island: Neither can the Hollanders, Spaniards, or Portuguese, well set any Ships to the West-Indies, without New-found Land Fish, there being none that will endure to pass the Line sound and untainted, but the Fish of that Countrey, salted and dry’d there. And so long as the Act continues still in force, That no Fish be Transported from the said Island, but in English Bottoms, it will contribute very much to our encrease of Shipping there, and by consequence, of the employment of Mariners; and the Fishing of that part of the Island will be solely appropriated to the English Nation, to whom of right it belongs, which will prove the greatest Ballance of Trade in that part of the World; and that whereas above two hundred Sail do Trade thither yearly to Fish, if a thousand Sail come, if there be but Fisher-men enow, they may all have Fraughtage there.
The French, if once the Island be fortifi’d, will be depriv’d of their Nursery of Mariners, this being the onely place, besides Canada, and one or two adjacent Coasts, where they come for supply of Fish, with which that Nation cannot be furnish’d so well from other Parts.
By well Planting and Fortifying New-found Land, the Trading to Virginia, New England, and those Parts, would be much encourag’d, New England having had of late great Traffick with New-found Land, where they vend the Growth of their Plantation. Besides, New-found Land is a Key to the Gulf of Canada, which if the English had again in their possession, as they had in the Years 1628. and 1632. they might give a Law to all foreign Kings and People interested in any of the parts of America, and a Protection to all the English Plantations upon that Continent, whereby great security, comfort and profit would arise to the Nation and People of it: whereas on the contrary, if the French, Spanish, or Dutch, should possess themselves of the said Plantation, they would not onely deprive this Nation of all the Advantages aforesaid, but would also derive to themselves so great a Power to prejudice all the Plantations of the Coasts of America belonging to this Nation, that the Inconveniences thereof are scarce to be imagin’d or express’d.
After the granting of the Patent aforesaid of 13 Car. 1. Sir David Kirk’s great Pains there, and constant Endeavours, were beyond expectation bless’d with a continuance and preservation of Trade in that Place; in the carrying on of which, he had always a special regard to the real Advantage of this Kingdom, and the particular Service of His Majesty.
[Sidenote: The wonderful Bank of Terra Nova.]
[Sidenote: The Baccaloos.]
Before this Island, right over against Cape Ray, at the distance of twenty four Leagues or more, there lieth an huge Bank or Ridge of Land, extending it self in length out of the Sea, above a hundred Leagues, but in breadth not above four or five and twenty, when it is broadest, and in other parts much less, sharpning towards each end into a Conus, or narrow Point. It is accounted one of the Wonders of the Sea, which round about, at some distance, is very deep, and hardly to be sounded, especially betwixt the Bank (for so they commonly call it) and Cape Ray, but drawing nearer, it grows by degrees more and more shallow, insomuch that nigh the Land there is not much more Water than is necessary for the Ships to Ride in. It runneth out in length, as was said, from North to South, from forty one Degrees of Latitude to fifty two; and round about it there lie scatter’d a multitude of lesser Islands, which Sir Sebastian Cabot, when he first discover’d the Place, call’d by one common Name Los Baccaloos, or The Islands of Cod-fish, from the great quantity of that sort of Fish he there found; which was such, that they hindred the passage of his Ships, and lay in such multitudes upon the Coasts, that the very Bears would come and catch them in their Claws, and draw them to Land.
[Sidenote: The Isle of Assumption.]
In the Gulf of St. Laurence, towards the Mouth of the River Canada, is another less considerable Island, said to have been first discover’d by Quartier, and by him call’d The Island of Assumption; by John Alphonso, The Island of Ascension; by the Natives, Natistcotec: It extends it self from the forty eighth to the fiftieth Degree, between the South-East and North-West.
Quartier makes mention of a strange kinde of Fish, found in the River of Canada, like unto a Sea-Hog, but having the Head of a Hare, it is call’d by the Natives Adhothuys.
Not far from this is a little Island, call’d by the French, Isle de Sable, or The Sandy Island; and another on the West of Terra Nova, call’d Isle de Bretons, or The Island of St. Laurence, besides several little scatter’d Islands in the Gulf of St. Laurence, as Menego, and The Three Islands of Birds; in which are found a kind of amphibious Animal, call’d by the French, Cualrus, and by the Russians, Morsh; somewhat like a Sea-Calf, but more monstrous.
CHAP. XII. The Bermudas, or Summer-Islands.
[Sidenote: Situation of the Bermudas.]
The Bermudas, or Summer-Islands (probably so term’d as to the first Appellation from certain black Hogs, by the Spaniards call’d Bermudas, which from a Ship bound with them to some other parts of the West-Indies, and cast away upon that Coast, swam ashore, and there increased; or, as others say, from John Bermudes, a Spaniard, who is said to have been the first Discoverer; or, as to the second, from one George Summers, an English-man, who there suffer’d shipwrack) are situated in thirty two Degrees and twenty five Minutes of Northern Latitude about sixteen hundred Leagues from England, twelve hundred from Madera, four hundred from Hispaniola, and three hundred from the nearest Coast of Virginia. The first that endeavour’d to settle Plantations here was a Spaniard nam’d Hernando Camelo, being design’d Conductor in this Expedition: And this Undertaking was so much the more eagerly prosecuted, upon consideration that the Plate-Fleet Sailing from Havana through the Straights of Bahama, might here have a convenient Harbour; but those who were invited to become Adventurers, with proffers of great Advantage, shewing themselves very slack in the Business, and Charles the Fifth being at that time intangled in War and other troublesom Affairs, the Design came to nothing, and for above sixty years after no farther Attempt was made by any for the Planting of these Islands, till at last the French made a Voyage thither under Captain Barboriere, but by Shipwrack were frustrated of their hopes; nor made they any more Preparations in this Design. In which nevertheless the English were not so easily discourag’d, for first Captain Gosnol and Smith set forth, at the Charges of Mr. Edward Wingfield; next, Captain Nelson; then successively West, Gates, Argal, and Wyat, but all with little or no success, till at length in the Year 1612. a Company was establish’d in London by the King’s Letters Patents, who sent one Mr. Richard Moor with sixty Men to the Bermudas, where he spent three years in fortifying those Islands: but that which put a little stop to this good beginning, was a kind of Misfortune that hapned; for the Rats which were gotten ashore from a Shipwrack increas’d so exceedingly, that they devour’d all the Plants in the Field, and the Provision in the Houses, insomuch that a great Famine proceeded from thence, all means to destroy the Vermine being in vain; till at last Providence sent a Disease amongst them, which kill’d them all in a very short time. Mean while Moor went on in the fortification of the Island, and was ere long supply’d with fresh People. Mr. Barlet was sent over with sixty Men, and carried from thence with him eighty Pound of Ambergreece. And soon after three Ships more, viz. the Blessing, the Star, and the Margaret, convey’d thither four hundred and ten, Men and Women. As soon as Moor was call’d away, Daniel Tuckard coming from Virginia to succeed him, bestirr’d himself very much, Planting all places full of Trees fetch’d from the West-Indian Islands; as also Tobacco, with which he fraighted a Ship to London. Moreover, the Countrey was divided into Acres, that every Planter might have an equal share, and know his own Lands. Anno 1619. Tuckard was succceded by Nathaniel Butler, who in four Ships brought thither five hundred Men and Women, to supply the first Plantation, which was much decay’d since the Rats had devour’d their Provisions, so that it was little look’d after by the Company in London: But now they built a Church and erected a Court of Judicature, and all things were order’d conveniently for the publick good. After which many Noble Persons set Sail thither in the Magazine Frigat; and the Planters being now fifteen hundred in number, inhabited twenty Leagues of Land in length.
[Sidenote: Forts built upon the Bermudas.]
On the longest Island, call’d St. George, (for the Bermudas consists of several Islands, great and small) they built Warwick and Dover Forts, with other Fortifications and Towers, which had their Denominations from those Noble-men and Gentlemen that were Undertakers in this Plantation, as Cavendish, Paget, Herbert, &c. from the Earl of Devonshire, the Lord Paget, the Earl of Pembroke and others.
[Sidenote: Ports and Havens.]
Amongst the Havens the eminentest are, Southampton, the Inlet Harrington, and the Great Sound.
All these Islands lying together resemble a Half-Moon, and are surrounded with Rocks, which appear at Low-water, and at High lie but shallow; for it seldom Ebbs or Flows above five Foot. The Shore, for the most part Rocky, and hardned by the Sun and Wind, receives no damage by the Waves which continually beat against the same.
[Sidenote: Nature of the Soil.]
The Ground it self differs; for in some places it is sandy or clayie, and in others partly black, and partly white, or Ash-colour’d Earth; which last is accounted the worst, and the black the best. Three Foot deep under the Ash-colour’d Earth lie great Slates, and under the black, a white spungie Stone, like the Pumice, in whose moist Crevises Trees take root.
The Pits or Wells, though they Ebb and Flow with the Sea, yet produce a wholsom and sweet Water.
[Sidenote: Temperature of the Air.]
The Skie is generally serene, but when over-cast with Clouds, is subject to Lightning and Thunder; yet the Air is of a good temper, being neither exceeding cold, nor excessive hot: for which reason the European Fruits grow better there than in their natural Soil.
Their Harvest is twice a year; for that which they Sowe in March, is ripe and gather’d in June; then what they Sowe again in August, they gather in January.
[Sidenote: Productions of the Countrey.]
These Islands breed no hurtful Creatures; nay, the yellow Spider which spins silken Cobwebs, is free from Poyson.
The Plant Nuchtly, which bears speckled Pears, grows betwixt the Rocks which are drench’d with Sea-water.
The Hogs which above a hundred and fifty years since swam ashore out of the Spanish Wrack, are exceedingly increas’d there, but because of their poorness are scarce eatable, they feeding onely on the sweet Berries which fall from the Palmito-Trees.
About the white and red Mulberries, which grow plentifully there, breed thousands of Silk-worms, which spin Silk according to the colour of the Mulberries.
The Sea produces some quantity of Pearls and Ambergreece.
From the beginning of the year till May, the Whales are seen to swim not far from the Shore.
A strange sort of Sea-Fowl breed in Holes like Rabbets; and amongst other Birds, here are also store of Cranes.
The Tobacco which the English have planted here grows very well.
[Sidenote: Tortoises Laying of Eggs.]
Here are likewise great Tortoises, which Lay their Eggs in the Sand on the Shore, where they are Hatch’d by the Beams of the Sun, and are taken after this manner: In the Night some are set to watch where they Land, and whilest they are digging a deep Hole in the Ground, are thrown on their Backs, and not being able to get upon their Legs again, they lie and groan very pitifully: some of them having above two Basons full of Eggs in their Bellies; which being about the bigness of a Tennis-Ball, have a thin Shell, which incloseth a Yolk and White. If these Eggs lie buried six years, then the young Tortoises breaking the Shell, come out of the Sand, and instantly creep into the Sea. Their Flesh is not onely wholsom but toothsom. The Oyl made of them is not inferior to Butter.
[Sidenote: Cedars of an excellent kind.]
Moreover, the Bermudas produce Cedars, the like of which are not to be found in the whole World: The Leaves are douny and prickly at the ends, almost like those of the Juniper Tree: The Wood hath a sweet smell, and the Berries, which are like the Myrtle, of a pale Red, inclose four white Kernels; the outermost Skin whereof is sweet; the innermost, which covers the Kernel, sharp, and the Pulp tartish: The Trees are always flourishing, being at the same time full of Blossoms, green, and ripe Fruit: The Berries, when grown ripe, begin to gape, and fall off in rainy Weather, leaving a round Stalk on the Boughs, which loses not its Rind till two years after; half which time the Berry requires, before it attains to its perfect ripeness, which generally happens in the Winter: The Boughs shoot straight upwards, and become in time so heavy, that they cause the Body of the Tree to bend. This most excellent Wood grows in divers places of the Bermudas.
We shall conclude with the resolute Exploit of five Sea-men, Anno 1616. who, to the great admiration of all People, set Sail from thence in an open Vessel of three Tun through the main Ocean, and after having suffer’d terrible Tempests, arriv’d in the space of seven Weeks safe in Ireland.
These Islands are remarkable for divers sorts of Plants, unknown in other Parts, as the Prickle Pear, Poyson Weed, Red Weed, Purging Bean, Costive Tree, Red Pepper, and the Sea Feather. Also several strange Birds, as the Egg Bird, Cahow, Tropick Bird, and the Pemlico, which presageth Storms.
CHAP. XIII. Hispaniola.
The Islands call’d De Barlovento, by which are understood Hispaniola, Cuba, Jamaica, and Boriquen, as also the Lucaies, with the Caribes, and lastly the Isles call’d De Sotavento, viz. Margareta, Cabagua, and Tabago, are by some comprehended all under the general Name of The Isles Antilles; though others reckon the Antilles to be the same with the Caribes onely. But leaving this Controversie undecided, we shall begin with the Isles De Barlovento, the chief whereof is Hispaniola.
[Sidenote: Bounds and Description of Hispaniola.]
Hispaniola, or Little Spain (as Columbus nam’d it) is, though not the largest, yet the fairest and goodliest of all the American Islands, call’d by the Natives anciently Hayti and Quisqueia: It lieth about fifteen Leagues Westward of Porto Rico, and distant from the main Land of America about one hundred and twenty; ’tis of a triangular form, the sharpest Point whereof is that towards Porto Rico, which they call Cabo de Enganno: that towards the West inclines to a Semi-circle, containing a good and convenient Bay betwixt the two Points, viz. St. Nicholas to the North, and Cabo de Donna Maria towards the South. It is not thought to be less than a hundred and fifty Leagues in length, and in breadth from threescore to thirty, and to contain in the compass of the whole, four hundred Leagues at least, lying betwixt eighteen and twenty Degrees of Northern Latitude, having an Air somewhat infested with the Morning Heats, but well cool’d again in the Afternoon, by a constant Wind from the Sea, which they call there Virason. It is, for the fertility of the Soil, one of the richest and most flourishing Countreys in the World; the Trees and all things else there continually clad, as it were, in their Summer Livery, the Meadows and Pastures always green, and of such an excellent Herbage, that Cattel both breed and thrive there beyond belief; both great Cattel and small, as Kine, Sheep, Hogs, &c. brought thither out of Spain, having multiply’d to such numbers, that they live wild now in Herds in several places, and are both hunted and kill’d, like Stags or other Venison, onely for their Hides, which they send yearly into Spain and other parts of Europe, as a great Merchandize and Commodity of huge profit to them.
Wild Hogs also have been formerly seen to feed in the Woods in great multitudes, but the Dogs since they were brought over hither, have made great havock amongst them.
[Sidenote: Beasts peculiar to Hispaniola.]
The Animals peculiar to this Island are 1. A little Beast call’d Hutias, not much unlike our Coneys. 2. Chemi, almost of the same form, but a little bigger. 3. Mohui, A Beast somewhat less than the Hutias. 4. A Beast call’d Coxi.
[Sidenote: The Fly Cuyero.]
Likewise amongst other strange sorts of Creatures here, the Cuyero is very observable, being about an Inch big, and having four Wings, of which two are larger than the other: when they flie they shine after such a manner, that in the Night they make a Room as light as day, insomuch that some have made use of them in stead of Candles to Read by.
[Sidenote: The Fish Manate.]
No less wonderful is the Fish Manate, whose shape hath been describ’d elsewhere: It breeds for the most part in the Sea, yet sometimes swimming up the Rivers, comes ashore and eats Grass. The Casique Caramatexi kept one in the Lake Guaynato, which was so tame, that when call’d by the Name Maton, it us’d to come out of the Water, and go directly to the Casique’s House, where being fed, it return’d to the Lake, accompanied with Men and Boys, who with their Singing seem’d to delight the Fish, which sometimes carried ten Children on its Back over the Water; but at last a Spaniard striking at it with a Pike, it would never come forth again when it espy’d a Cloth’d Man: It liv’d twenty six years in the fore-mention’d Lake, till by accident the River Hayboaic over-flowing into the said Lake, the Fish return’d to the Sea.
[Sidenote: The Fish Abacatuaia.]
Besides this great Fish, here is also a sort of small Fish, call’d Abacatuaia, with a little Mouth, black Eyes encompass’d with Silver-colour’d Circles, four black Fins, two long ones under its Belly, one on the Back, and one on each side of the Head, the Tail slit and cover’d with a glittering Skin: It is as big as a Flounder, and not ill Meat, but thick and round.
[Sidenote: The Insect Nigua.]
When the Spaniards first setled on Hispaniola, they were exceedingly tormented with a sort of leaping Insects call’d Nigua, which us’d to eat through their Skin into the Flesh in such a nature, that many of them lost their Arms and Legs; but at last they found out a Remedy against this Evil, viz. the searing the Wounds with hot Irons.
[Sidenote: Fruits.]
Besides the aforesaid plenty of Flesh, they have many excellent Fruits all the year long, as Banana’s, Pine-Apples, Custud-Apples, Plantens, Papans, Musk-melons, Water-melons, and many other peculiar Plants, as 1. the Auzuba, a fair large Tree, the Fruit whereof is call’d Pinnas, resembling a Malecotoon: Of this Tree there are three sorts, Jaima, Boniama, and Jaiqua; 2. Quauconex; 3. Axi; of which there are also several sorts, as Carive, Huarahuac, Axiblanco, Acafran-Axi, and Axi-Coral; 4. Yuca, the Root of which serves in stead of Corn; 5. Certain Trees call’d Guaibes, besides plenty of Mint and Potato’s.
[Sidenote: The Provinces of this Island.]
The Island of Hispaniola was formerly divided into several Provinces, amongst which the Mountainous Countrey Hyguey lies towards the Isle of Porto Rico. On the Mountains, which are flat on the top, are great variety of sharp-pointed Stones. The Soil is a sort of colour’d Earth, which produces all sorts of Fruit, especially the Root Casabi, and Melons.
Hyguey also conterminates with Ycayagua; Northward lies Samana; Southward, Yaquimo, where there is store of Brasile Wood: And between the City Domingo and Yaquimo, is the Countrey Baoruco, which with its Mountains extends sixty Leagues in length, and above twenty in breadth, without any Water, Pasture, or Food for Cattel or Mankind.
Next follows the Countrey Xaragua, lying at the great Inlet which divides Hispaniola; for one side extends to the Promontory of St. Nicholas, and the other to the Point Tiburon. This Countrey produces abundance of Cotton.
Lastly, the Provinces Guahaba, Haniguagya and Cahay, are very eminent; as also Cibao, which is full of Gold-Mines; and Lavega Real, with Magnana, which lie between the two great Rivers Neyba and Yagui; the stony Countrey Ciguayos, and the low Coast Darica, where Christopher Columbus built the City Navidad, which he afterwards deserted.
Ginger was formerly brought hither from the East-Indies, but now grows here in such great abundance, that above two and twenty thousand Kintalls are yearly Transported from thence to Spain.
With as good success grow here also the Sugar-Canes and Maiz.
Peter Martyr, a Councellor to the Emperor Charles the Fifth, relates, That Hispaniola produc’d in his time, besides Silver, Copper, and Iron, five hundred thousand Ducats in Gold: Nevertheless the rich Mines lay undisturb’d, because they wanted People to work in them, insomuch that had they not planted their Royal Seat in Domingo, the Island had long since been deserted, notwithstanding the exceeding fruitfulness of the Soil, because the Spaniards exercis’d their Cruelty in such a nature, that of sixty thousand Inhabitants from the Year 1508. to Anno 1514. scarce fourteen thousand of them were left alive; all which is affirm’d by the Bishop De las Casas. Nay, the fore-mention’d Peter Martyr relates, That the Men wearied with working in the Mines, kill’d themselves, despairing of ever being releas’d from their Slavery; and Women with Child destroy’d the Infants in their Wombs, that they might not bear Slaves for the Spaniards. He adds hereunto, That of a hundred and twenty thousand Persons, few were left in a short time.
[Sidenote: The Gaiety of the antient Casiques.]
These Provinces in former times had each of them their Casique, whose splendor consisted chiefly in Dancing to his Devotion, with a Girdle full of Bells about his Middle, a String of Pearls about his Arms, a Covering over his Privities, and a Plume of Feathers on his Head, with a Drummer before him, and a small Train of Arm’d Men after him.
[Sidenote: Ports and Havens.]
On the Coast are first the Point of Nisao, ten Leagues to the West of Santo Domingo.
Eighteen Leagues farther is the Port Ocoa, which is a Bay where the Fleets of Nova Hispania take refreshing, when they do not Anchor in the Nook of Sepesepin, which is near unto it, or in another call’d The Fair Haven, two Leagues before you come to Ocoa.
Twenty Leagues beyond Ocoa is the Port of Asua.
Thirty Leagues more Westwardly is a large Point right against the Island of Bola, which lieth five Leagues from the Coast.
The most Westerly Point is call’d Cape Tiburon: It hath an Island three Leagues from it Westward, call’d Caprio; and Sailing along the Coast, you will see an Island call’d Camito, and farther in the Nook of Yaguana another call’d Guanabo of eight Leagues long.
On the North side of the Island, the most Westerly Cape and Port is St. Nicholas, from whence North-East and by East, lieth the Island of Tortuga, near the Coast of Hispaniola: It is of five Leagues length.
Farther along the Coast is Monte Christo, the West Cape of Natividad; to the East of which there is a great Bay call’d Port Real.
This Island is so full of Harbours, that he that will Coast it, cannot well miss of one where he pleaseth, most of which afford fresh Meat and good Water.
Moreover, Hispaniola hath many brave Rivers, the chiefest of which are Hayna; Nizao, along whose Shore the first Sugar-Canes were planted; Neyba, a great River; Yaquimo; Yaqui, which Columbus call’d Rio de Oro, because the Ground thereof glitter’d like Gold; and lastly, the Rivers Nicayagua, amongst whose Sands is Gold; Nigua, which borrows its Denomination from the fore-mention’d leaping Insect; the swift Stream Juno, whose Banks are crown’d with handsom Houses; and Jaquin, which hath many Salt-pans.
The Rivers Itabo, Ocoa, Cepi, Bia, Cazui, Sanate de Plata, and Chiabon, have some one, others more Sugar-Mills upon them.
But the chiefest River is Ozama, broad, and so deep, that the biggest Vessel may lie close by the Shore; and also washes St. Domingo.
[Sidenote: Description of the City of St. Domingo.]
This City, the Metropolis of all the Isles round about, was built by Bartholomeus Columbus, and was peopled Anno 1494. after which it flourish’d eight years, when, a terrible Storm blowing the same down to the Ground, Nicholas Olanda remov’d it to the Western Shore of Ozama, that the Spaniards, who had for the most part setled towards the West, might not be necessitated to Ferry over: but the first place stood much more conveniently, being not onely provided of a Fountain of sweet Water, but also freed of those unwholsom Vapours which daily rise with the Sun at this new-built City. To prevent the inconvenience of crossing to the foremention’d Fountain, of which the Inhabitants found themselves oftentimes in great want, Olanda went about to lead the neighboring River Hayna into the Ozama, but the Design not being prosecuted, bereav’d Domingo of the onely thing which would have made it able to stand in competition with any City in the World; for it lies on a Plain, the South side whereof is wash’d by the Sea; the East side, by the River; on the North and West are many delightful Fields.
The City, which in a manner is built square, is divided into long straight Streets, full of fair Houses after the Spanish manner: in the middle thereof is a square Market-place, with a handsom Church, the Yard whereof is encompass’d with a high Wall, which upon occasion would serve for a place of great Defence.
The Collectors of the King of Spain’s Revenue dwell in stately Palaces; and the Dominicans, Franciscans, and Monks De la Merced, have brave Cloysters, besides two more for the Nuns.
The Latine School and Hospital belonging to the City, are Endow’d with great yearly Revenues.
The Arch-bishop of St. Domingo hath Command over the Bishoprick of Conception, La Vega, Cuba, Venezuela, and Porto Rico.
The City is surrounded with a Stone Wall, and fortifi’d with a Castle, which with two Bulwarks reaches to the River Ozama, and within them two Half-Moons.
On the utmost Shore stands a round Tower near the Southern Bulwark.
Before the new discover’d Countreys entic’d away many People from St. Domingo, and the Silver Fleet put into Havana, the Inhabitants drove a great Trade in Hides, Tallow, Sugar, Cassia, Horses, and Hogs.
Anno 1586. Sir Francis Drake Landed here with twelve hundred English-men, took the City by Storm, staid a whole Moneth in the same, and upon Composition with the Spaniard, left it undestroy’d.
[Sidenote: Other chief Towns of Hispaniola.]
Other chief Towns in Hispaniola are 1. Salvaleon, twenty eight Leagues distant from St. Domingo, towards the East.
2. Zeybo. 3. Cotny, formerly inhabited by those that work’d in the Gold-Mines; the last especially was once a rich Town, and much frequented, but now in a manner deserted.
4. Azua, or New Compostella, eight Leagues distant from St. Domingo, famous for the Sugar-Mills not far from it, and one of the Ports before-mention’d.
5. Yaguana, for its brave Harbour also call’d Maria del Puerto, in the more Western parts of the Island; a small Town not above a League distant from the Sea; It was burnt by Captain Christopher Newport.
6. Conception de la Vega, adorn’d with a Cathedral and Cloysters of Fryers, and lying twenty or thirty Leagues Northward of St. Domingo: It was built by Columbus, and from thence he had his Title of Duke de la Vega.
7. Sant Jago de los Cavalleros, a very pleasant Place, ten Leagues Northward of St. Domingo.
8. Puerto de Plata, or The Silver Haven, four Leagues distant from St. Domingo towards the North: It hath been counted the second Place of Trading and Wealth in the whole Island, being commodiously seated on an Arm of the Sea, and fortifi’d with a Castle.
9. Monte Christo, one of the Ports also above-mention’d: It lies fourteen Leagues Westward of Plata, and extends it self along the Northern Coast: it is wash’d by the River Yagui, on whose Banks are many Salt-pans.
[Sidenote: The Island dispeopled by the cruelty of the Spaniards.]
[Sidenote: Their barbarous usage of Guaccanarillo and others.]
All those Cities are much decay’d, and thinly inhabited, the Spaniards being most of them drawn by the temptation of new discover’d Gold and Silver Mines in other places, and the first Inhabitants having been miserably destroy’d. The Bishop De las Casas, an Eye-witness, relates, That the King Gauccanarillo secur’d the Goods of a stranded Ship, of which Columbus was Commander, and receiv’d the Spaniards very courteously; but not being able to continue supplying them with that quantity of Gold they requir’d, wanting Men to gather so much out of the Streams and Mines, and seeing no way to rid himself from the Spaniards Oppressions, fled to the Province of Ciguayos, the Casique of which was his Deputy; whereat the Spaniards were so enrag’d, that they burnt all that they could meet with, neither sparing young nor old; and at length taking Guaccanarillo, put him in Irons, and thought to have carried him to Madrid; but the Ship in which he went suffering Shipwrack, he with many others was cast away, being before almost dead with grief for his Consort, who had been Ravish’d by a Spanish Commander, Likewise Anacoana, Sister to the Casique, or Governor of the Province Xarana, and Partner with him in the Government, seeing three hundred of her Councellors burning in a great House, set on fire by the Spaniards, and her Subjects torn by Dogs, or cut in pieces, hung her self out of despair. The same Death died Higuanama, Queen of Huguey. Others say that Anacoana was put to death together with her Brother in a most barbarous and cruel manner, by Nicholas de Olanda, who succeeded Diego de Arana in the Government of this Island. Many Women and Children were kept alive onely to Manure the Ground. The Men dying of their hard Labour in the Gold-Mines, and those which endur’d stoutly the cruel Labour under Ground, were never suffer’d to go to their Wives; from whence proceeded a great decrease of People, the Spaniards seeming purposely to design the destruction of the Natives of Hispaniola, though they receiv’d great benefit by their Service; for Gold in former times was found between the Cracks and split Stones of the Mountains, whose Veins the Mine-workers digg’d for not without great and dangerous Labour.
[Sidenote: First original of the People of Hispaniola.]
The first Planters of Hispaniola are, according to the common opinion, deriv’d from Matinio, a high and Mountainous Isle, from whence the most eminent Inhabitants were driven by certain Rebels, as formerly the Syrians under the Government of Dido, were driven from Tyre to Lybia, and the Batavians from Hessen to the Countrey between Rhyne and Wall, at present inhabited by the Gelders and Hollanders. These Matininoensians thus expell’d from their native Countrey, setled themselves on Cahonao, near the River Bahaboni: The first House they call’d Camoteia, and afterwards turn’d it into a Temple, to which they shew’d Reverence, and made great Presents: In like manner the Tyema, which stood on a high Rock belonging to one of the Canary Islands, was by the ancient Inhabitants of the Place had in great veneration, insomuch that many leap’d down from the same, being perswaded by the Priests, That the Souls of those which threw themselves off this sacred Break-neck, should immediately be translated into a place of everlasting happiness.
[Sidenote: The ancient Name of this Island.]
This Island was, as we said before, first call’d Haity which signifies Wild, because in many places it swells with wondrous high Mountains, and in other places is over-grown with great Woods: it was afterwards by the ancient Inhabitants nam’d Xusqueia, that is, Unmeasurably great, because they suppos’d it to be the whole World, and that the Sun shin’d in no other place.
[Sidenote: Indian Songs or Ballads call’d Areitos.]
The Natives of this Island, though wholly rude of acquir’d Knowledge or Literature, like the generality of the Americans, yet they took care to instruct their Children in the Original and Antiquities of their Countrey, and the Wars and Exploits of their Predecessors, both which they contain’d in Songs call’d Areitos which they us’d to Sing to the sound of Drums and Trumpets; but especially their Persons of chiefest Quality study’d most these Areitos, and exercis’d themselves in Dancing.
[Sidenote: Strange Prediction of the Spaniards Arrival.]
The most remarkable of these ancient Areitos, were such as pretended to prophesie of things to come, which if of sad consequence, were Sung very mournfully and with many Sighs; nor were they always, however inspir’d, without effect, as appear’d at last by woful event: for long before the Spaniards Landed on Hispaniola, it was foretold by one of them, that Maguacochios, signifying Clothed People, should Land on Hispaniola, who with sharp Weapons should cut off Heads and Arms, and under whose insupportable Yoke their Successors must spend their days without hope of ever being releas’d.
It might be disputed whether these Predictions were dictated by good or evil Spirits; but it is generally believ’d, that all their Oracles, whether hapning true or false, were suggested by diabolical Spirits to the Priests, who commonly convers’d with them; and that these Spirits knew the Design of several People to discover new Countreys.
[Sidenote: The Images of their Zemes.]
Their Images Zemes, stuff’d full of Cotton, were fashion’d into very frightful Shapes, and might pass for those things which we call Terricula, or Bugbears; of which some were made very small, and those they ty’d on their Foreheads when they went to the Wars. Every Governor had a peculiar Zemes, to whom he shew’d Reverence, in return whereof he expected Rain, fair Weather, and to conquer his Enemies, supposing him to be a Messenger of a perpetual and endless Being, by them call’d Jocauna Guamaonocon; whom nevertheless they suppos’d to have a Mother, to whom they gave five Names, viz. Attbeir, Mamona, Guacarapita, Liella, and Guimazoa.
[Sidenote: The Islanders Opinion of the Creation.]
Their opinion of Man’s Creation was thus: They say, that out from a Mountain in the Province Cuanana, out of certain small and great Caverns therein, came little and great People: The biggest Hole, call’d Cazibaragua, and the little one, nam’d Amaiauna, were said to be lock’d up every Night, that none might pass the Sentinel Machchael, who out of curiosity leaving the Mountain Cuata, and going up into the Countrey, was discover’d by the Sun, whose Beams he not being able to endure, was turn’d into a Rock. The like Mischance hapned to many others, who in the dark Night going to Fish, in the Morning at their Return were chang’d into Oaken Trees, onely one of the Fishermen was sent away by the chief Commander Vaguoniana, who moved at the Complaint of a Nightingale’s Singing, suffer’d all the Men to go into the Hole, and the Women and Children he Transported to Matinino. But to make short of these non-sensical Stories, in conclusion, the Men being let out of their Caves, saw many strange Beasts amongst the Woods, which being turn’d into Women, were entertain’d by them, and brought forth a numerous Progeny, which spread over all Hispaniola.
[Sidenote: Their foolish Opinion of the Original of the Sea.]
No less ridiculous an Account do the Priests give concerning the Original of the Sea, viz. That Jaia, a mighty Man, buried the Body of his deceased Son in a Pumpion, which some Moneths after, out of meer affection to the Deceased, he cutting open, abundance of Whales sprung out of it. This Wonder being every where known, amongst others, entic’d four Brothers born at one Birth (whose Mother died in Childbed) to get the Pumpion into their possession; which their Design prov’d successful: but afterwards struck with a pannick fear of Jaia’s coming thither (who oftentimes came to mourn over the Bones of his dead Son) they fled, and threw away the Pumpion, which breaking with the fall, the Sea gush’d out of all places thereof, and cover’d the Plains in such a manner, that nothing of them was seen, onely the tops of the highest Mountains appear’d; at which the four Brothers terribly afrighted, rang’d through barren Desarts, in which they had died of Hunger, had they not come to a Baker’s House, which one of them entring, ask’d for Cazabi; but the Baker denying them Bread, spit on them, which caus’d a mortal Dropsie, which the Brothers upon consultation found no way to cure, but by cutting a hole in the Skin with a sharp Stone, and to let out the Water; but out of each running Wound sprung a Woman, who bare them four Sons and four Daughters.
[Sidenote: The Cave Jovana-beina.]
There is a certain Cave call’d Jovana-beina, which is adorn’d with a thousand Pictures, in great esteem amongst them; at the Entrance on each side whereof stands a Zemes; that on the right side is call’d Binthaitelles, the other Marohur, to which they come from all places to pay their Devotions, because (they say) the Sun and Moon came out of the said Cave to lighten the World.
[Sidenote: Their absurd Opinion of the Deceased.]
Much after the same absurd rate is their Opinion of the Deceased; for they suppose that they range through Woods and Forrests in the Night, eat of a Fruit call’d Guannaba, and steal to the Embraces of Women in Moon-shiny Nights. A Traveller, say they, if he be frighted at the appearance of a deceased Person, great inconveniences will certainly attend him, but if he goes stoutly towards it, then the Goblin vanishes.
These Delusions are made great Mysteries amongst them, and contain’d in Songs, which their Priests Boiti Sing to a kind of Tabor made of a piece of hollow Wood, pretending that they have familiar Conversation with the Zemes concerning future things.
[Sidenote: Their Ceremonies about their Sick.]
Their Ceremonies about their sick, especially if Persons of Quality, are likewise very remarkably odd and conceited: First they chew a strong kind of Herb, call’d Cohobba, with which having sufficiently intoxicated their Brains, they foam at the Mouth, and run with a Stone and a piece of Flesh in their Mouths to the sick Person, whose Family they drive all out of Doors, except one or two, whose presence the Patient requires; then the Boiti walks four times about the sick Person’s Bed, making strange Gestures, pinching his Lips and Nose, blowing upon his Forehead, Throat and Temples, and sucking several parts of his Body, alledging, that thereby he draws the Distemper out of the Veins; after that he chafes and rubs his Shoulders, Thighs and Legs, and ties his Hands and Feet together, then running to the Door, proclaims, That the Sick in a short time shall be restor’d to his former Health; which said, he returns with his Arms stretch’d out towards the sick Person, takes the piece of Flesh out of his Mouth, which he gives him backwards, saying, You shall rise and go forth in Health, for I have taken away your Sickness: But if he judges the Distemper not curable, he makes the Sick believe, that Zemes is displeas’d with him, because he did not build a House for him, or consecrate a Garden to him, or in some respect or other did not worship him as he ought to have done. When the Soul departs out of the Body, they conjure the Body with many Adjurations, to reveal whether it died according to God’s decree, or through neglect of the Boiti, as not having sanctifi’d himself enough by Fasting when he went first to the Sick, or not prescrib’d sufficient Medicines: wherefore if (as they say) the Devil answers them from the Mouth of the Deceased, that the Boiti did not perform his due Office, then the nearest Friends revenge themselves on the Boiti, but if otherwise, then they are highly esteem’d amongst them. The Women taking the Stones which the Boiti kept in his Mouth, wrap them up in a fine Cloth as a holy Relique, supposing that they will much facilitate their Child-birth.
[Sidenote: Their manner of Consulting with their Zemes.]
The Casiques desirous to know future Events of War, or whether the approaching Years will be fruitful, go into a Chappel consecrated to the Zemes, and snuff the intoxicating Herb Cohobba up their Nostrils; whereupon they break out into loud Exclamations, and some kind of strange extravagant Actions, till the power of the Cohobba begins to decay, and the Frenzie cease; then coming again to their Senses, they bow their Heads, and lay their Elbows on their Knees, in which posture they sit for a considerable time, then lifting up their Eyes they yawn as if they came from sleep; then they mutter to themselves whilest their Retinue which stand about them (for no common Person is suffer’d to be there) thank them with a loud Voice, for the pains they have been at in discoursing with the Zemes; then the Casiques begin to declare what hath been reveal’d to them, viz. whether they shall be fortunate in the Wars or not; whether it will be a fruitful or unfruitful, healthy or sickly Year.
[Sidenote: Gossipping.]
Moreover, at the Birth of the Casique’s Children, the neighboring Governors visit the Women in Child-bed, and every one gives the Child a peculiar Name, from whence it happens that one Man hath oftentimes forty Names, and is highly incens’d if any one of them chances to be forgot in any Writing directed to him.
[Sidenote: Manner of Succession.]
Their manner of Succession in Government is not unremarkable; for not the eldest Heir-male of the Family, but first the King or Casique’s Brother, if he have any, and after his Decease the eldest of the Sisters Inherits the Realm or Seigniorie: if the Sisters have no Male-issue, then the Brothers Sons Inherit; and in case they have no Male-heir, then the next of Blood, whether Male or Female: but if the Prince or Casique dies without Children, Nephews, or other near Relations, the next in Power in the Countrey Inherits, and Marries as many Wives as he pleases; of which she that he loves best is burn’d alive in her best Apparel with her Husband when he dies, and near the Corps stands a Cup of Water and some of the Bread Cazabi.
[Sidenote: Languages.]
There are several Languages in Hispaniola, but differing from each other: for in the Province Bainoa they have a different, both Pronunciation and Dialect from that in Caizimu.
In the said Province of Caizimu is a very remarkable Rock, or vast Stone to be seen, at the Foot of a high Mountain; and underneath the said Stone is a great Cave, into which they go through a large Passage, not unlike a Temple Door; near which conjoyn many deep Rivers, with such a Noise and Foam, that they lose both their Sight and Hearing, whoever approach the same.
[Sidenote: An Example of the Bainoan Language.]
Of the Language of the Province Bainoa, Peter Martyr gives us this Specimen: “The Wife of a Casique (says he) went to Prayers in a Chappel which was built by the Spaniards; at her Return from whence her Husband desiring to enjoy her, she refusing, said, Teitoca, teitoca, techeta Cynato guammechina, that is to say, Be contented, Be contented, God would be highly incens’d: to which the Casique answer’d, Gnaibba Cynato machabucha guamechyna, that is, What care I if God be angry.”
[Sidenote: The taking of St. Domingo by Sir Fran. Drake.]
Since the Spaniards had first possession of this Island, it hath been twice Invaded by the English, the first time under the Conduct of Sir Francis Drake, who took the Town of San Domingo, staid in it a good while, and could if he had pleas’d, have totally dispossess’d the Spaniards; the second time under Colonel Venables, sent thither by Oliver Cromwell during his usurp’d Dominion; at which time it might as easily have been taken as at first, had not the Business been rashly and indiscreetly manag’d, as shall presently be declar’d more at large. The first Expedition of Sir Francis Drake hath been already hinted, but for the memorableness of that bold Exploit, we shall give a particular Account of it from a late Writer, who hath set forth the Life of that brave English Heroe. In the Year of our Lord 1580. about the end of February setting Sail from St. Christophers for Hispaniola, by the Way they met with a small Frigat bound for San Domingo, and the Men of her being Examin’d, one assur’d them that the Haven of it was a barr’d Haven, and the Shore well fortifi’d, so that there was no convenient Landing within ten English Miles of the City, whither this Man undertook to conduct them. January the first they Landed ten Miles from the City, and marching thither under the Command of the Lieutenant General, arriv’d about one a Clock in the Afternoon; when they came near, about a hundred and fifty Gentlemen well Mounted, presented themselves against them; but the small Shot playing upon them, they departed, and the English proceeded towards the two Gates of the City that lay towards the Sea, both which the Spaniards had Mann’d, and planted their Ordnance without the Gates, and some small Shot in an Ambush by the Way-side: The English being about twelve hundred Men, divided themselves; the Lieutenant-General leading the one half to one Gate, and Captain Powel the other half to the other Gate, vowing that with God’s assistance they would not rest till they met in the Market-place: No sooner had the Spaniards discharg’d their Ordnance, doing some little Execution, but the Lieutenant-General hasted, or rather ran upon them, to prevent their Charging again, and notwithstanding their Ambush, entred Pell Mell with them into the Gate, not staying till he came into the Market-place, unto whom shortly after came Captain Powel with his Companies. This Place they strengthned with Barricado’s, the City being too large to be guarded by so small and weary an Army. And after Mid-night they in the Castle, hearing some of the English busie about the Gate, quitted it, some being taken Prisoners, and others escaping by Boats. The next day the English enlarg’d their Quarters, and fortifi’d themselves, and held the Town for a Moneths space. During this time the General sent a Negro Boy with a Flag of Truce to the Spaniards, who by the Way was met by some Officers of the Galley which the English had taken, together with the City, who furiously thrust the poor Boy through the Body; who returning to the General, and having declar’d how barbarously they had us’d him, fell down and died in his Presence. The General being much mov’d herewith, commanded the Provost-Martial to take two Fryers, and to carry them to the same place with a sufficient Guard, and there to hang them; and withal he sent one of the Prisoners to inform the Spaniards why he did it, and to tell them, that till the Party who had thus murder’d his Messenger were deliver’d to him, there should no day pass wherein he would not hang two Prisoners, till all were consum’d. Hereupon the day following the Murtherer was brought, and an Offer made to deliver him to the General, who yet thought it more honorable to make them perform the Execution themselves in the sight of the English, which was done accordingly.
During their abode here, Commissioners oft pass’d between the Spaniards and them about the Ransom of the City, but not agreeing, the English spent every Morning till the heat of the Day in firing and destroying the Houses in the outward part of the City, two hundred Mariners being employ’d therein for divers days; yet were the Houses built so magnificently and strongly of Stone, that they could not consume one third part of the Town all that time; whereupon the General was contented to accept of twenty five thousand Ducats of 5_s._ 6_d._ apiece to spare the rest.
Here his Soldiers met with good Pillage, especially of rich Apparel, but Treasure they found none; for the Spaniards by their Cruelties had so destroy’d the Natives, who us’d to work in the Mines of Gold and Silver, that they were wholly given over; and in that Island they were forc’d to use Copper Money: yet they found store of Wine, Oyl, Vinegar, Wheat, Woollen and Linnen Cloth, some Silks, &c. which much reliev’d them: there was but little Plate found, but good store of Porcelane, or China Dishes; yet some they found, and very costly Houshold-stuff.
[Sidenote: Venables his Expedition to San Domingo.]
Venables his Expedition was in the Year 1654. when Cromwell having gain’d the supream Power under the Title of Protector, and having us’d so many Engines for the getting of Money to maintain his Greatness and usurp’d Authority, that he was almost brought to his last Shifts, bethought himself of this Project, (or, as some suppose, had it put into his Head by Cardinal Mazarine, the then great Minister of State in France, with whom he had intimate Correspondence) thinking thereby to kill two Birds with one Stone: for on the one side, he thought by this notable Exploit to advance his Fame abroad, and gain Credit and Applause with the People at home, by enlarging his Empire, and spreading the Renown of the English Nation, and so consequently to establish himself the more firmly in his new gotten Power; and at the same time by the great Riches he promis’d to himself from this Adventure, to recruit his Stock, which all his griping Exactions, especially from the King’s Party, could scarce supply for the keeping up of his Army, maintaining Intelligence, and other vast Expences: To this end he sets forth a considerable Fleet with extraordinary speed and secrecy, it not being known whither this Fleet was design’d till they were almost upon the very Place, that the Spaniard might not be forewarn’d to provide against them, onely in general terms it was given out, that the Design was both advantageous to the Nation, and would prove a great enrichment to all that went upon it; so that it is no great wonder, if within a short space a good competent Army was got together of such as having neither Estates nor Employments, willingly offer’d themselves, as Men that went from the fear of Iron Grates, to the hopes of Golden Ingots; and many of them were such as having been in the late King’s Army, and disdaining to take any Employment at home under that Government, were easily induc’d to List themselves in this Armada: nor was Oliver a little glad of this occasion of sending out of the Land, and employing upon a desperate Adventure those Men, who he had reason to suspect would, upon any opportunity offer’d, be the first Opposers of his usurp’d Power. This Army being sent to Portsmouth for Embarquation, and there making such Preparations as was convenient, which a Moneths time or thereabouts was thought would accomplish, a Messenger came from Desborough (who was there to set them going) to the General, that he should prepare to Embarque on Christmas-day; which at the first the General receiv’d with great impatience, alledging, That it was not possible so to do, and that he would not set Sail without his Arms and other Necessaries, which were not yet come from London: however, at his going to Desborough he was prevail’d upon to set Sail, with a promise that the Ships with the Arms should immediately follow him to the Barbado’s, where he was to stay till their arrival; so on Christmas-day they set Sail, and about the fourteenth of February arriv’d at Barbado’s with three thousand Men, and a Company of Reformado’s, which there were doubled, and then, and not till then, it was told them, That the reason of their so sudden going away, was because there was a Plot forming in England for restoring the King, and that they were not thought fit to be left there at the Head of their Regiments, to be tempted with the advantage of joyning with any such Party. At Barbado’s they staid till they had almost undone that Place by eating up their Provisions, the Planters there seldom preparing more than they have occasion to spend in their Houses, and for their Servants (having better and more profitable Employments upon their Hands) and the Soldiers not being content with such Provisions as their Servants would be well pleas’d with, so that they were in danger of starving the Island and themselves too: Thereupon a Council of War was call’d, and the necessity of leaving that Island declar’d, and Orders issu’d out to set Sail for Hispaniola, where they might make such Attempt as their Condition would allow, wanting Arms and other Necessaries; when they came within five or six Leagues of Hispaniola the Fleet lay by, and a Council of War was call’d by the Commissioners (for such they had who were never Soldiers) with some few Officers of the Army, where it was resolv’d to attempt San Domingo, and an Order made, That in case it be taken, no Soldier should offer to Plunder, but that satisfaction in lieu thereof should be given by the Commissioners; the Officers of the Army in vain opposing and protesting against it, which occasion’d the Soldiers to say, That the Commissioners should take the Town themselves, for they would not; Lots were there drawn by the several Colonels who should first Land, which fell upon the Black Regiment, who had no Arms but Half-pikes of eight Foot long, made of Cabbage-Tree in the Barbado’s; And Orders were then given out to the several Colonels to Land at the River Hind, within two Leagues of San Domingo; so they steer’d their Course thither, as was thought, by Night, but the next Morning found themselves twenty Leagues at least from the place of Rendezvouz, though one Regiment Landed there, who durst not attempt the Town for want of Orders, though doubtless they might have taken it, had they not staid in expectation of the General and the rest of the Fleet; but when they were thus cast Leeward of the Town, they must Land their Men, who no sooner went on Shore, but the Order against Plundering was read, and the Soldiers in a Mutiny to whom it was read, which made the rest forbear to read it, judging it no time now to disoblige them, who had in their Officers opinion too just a cause of discontent: However this was made known to the rest, and discours’d as they march’d, That they had not thought to be under a Committee here, but they would make them weary of their Employment ere they had done: And this indeed was enough, besides the faintness and unusual Heat of the Countrey, to disanimate Men of good Resolutions, especially the ordinary Soldiers, whose hopes of Plunder is the chiefest prop to their Courage, and expected Gain the spurr to their Valour. After they had Landed their Men, next Morning early they march’d towards San Domingo; but before Noon the Heat and Drought which they felt made them sensible of their first Errour and Inadvertency, in coming from England without their Necessaries; for through want of Bottles, which were left behind, and came not till three Moneths afterwards, the Men fell down dead in the High-ways, every one fainting and languishing, and crying out for Water: shortly after they met with a Field of Oranges, which was no unwelcome sight, with which they stor’d themselves; but ere they had march’d four or five Miles thought they had quench’d their present Thirst, and their Drought began to increase however, they march’d on, leaving some of their Men dead on the place, others fainting, were set upon the Troopers Horses till they came that Night to some Water, which gave them new life, and the Morrow early march’d again till they came within some Miles of the appointed Rendezvouz, where they heard of the other Regiment that Landed at the right place: And now having refresh’d themselves with Rest, Water, and Provision, they march’d to the taking of the Town; the General himself, with a small Party and a Guide, went towards the Town to find out some Water, which he knew the Soldiers would want, (not having Bottles to carry any) but as they were on their March, which was very leisurely by reason of the Heat, they heard a firing of Musquets, then making more speed in their March, supposing an Engagement, in the Highway, about a Mile from the Town, was found one of the General’s Secretaries, with others, dead; and not long after some came back to the General, and told him, That looking for Water with the Guide, an Ambuscade issu’d out, and had kill’d the Guide that should have shew’d them the place of Water, and some others; and although some which Commanded the foremost Regiments were very forward and willing to assault the Town, yet it was not thought fit so to do till the Army came up, by which time it was Night; and though they were then within half a Mile of the Town, yet the Soldiers were so impatient for Water, that they could not stay till the next Morning to assault the Town, but were forc’d to march back to the River Hind about eight Miles; (and this Relater did at that time drink his own Water) there they staid till they had again refresh’d themselves, and then prepar’d for their Return to attaque the Town; and notwithstanding the March it self in a hot Countrey was irksom enough, yet they were forc’d to make the Soldiers to draw the Ordnance and other Carriages for want of Harness and other Necessaries, which were left behind; however, they willingly underwent it by Turns: And now a Forlorn was drawn out, and other Orders given for a March, especially it being taken notice of, that the Enemies manner of Fight was and would be by Ambuscades, a File in every Company were order’d to stand till the other came up, and to face to the Right and Left to the Woods, which were all along as they went, for fear of a Surprize; and the Forlorn marching near an old Fort, call’d Jeronymo, which we had been possess’d of before, but thought not worth the keeping, and fearing they might meet with some small opposition there, began to fortifie themselves, and took a Dram of the Bottle, which as they were drinking, and others eating a bit, suddenly rush’d forth an Ambush of about a hundred and twenty Blacks, with a Spanish Commander in the Head of them, which so amaz’d and surpriz’d them, that some few onely Discharging, the rest immediately fled; the Blacks quickly falling in with their Lances, and doing such Execution as the time would allow them; for presently the Alarm being taken, and Supplies marching out for their relief, the Enemy, who had done more than they could possibly expect to have done, retreated into their Fort, which they had better fortifi’d than before, and had planted some small Drakes there upon it; the Execution was so short, that they had not time either to strip or pick a Pocket, lest they had paid too dear for it. After this Defeat a Council of War was call’d, and there it was agreed the next Morning early to fall on upon that little Fort, and so proceed to the taking of the Town; but very early, as they were in that expectation, Orders came from the General to the Army to march back to the River Hind, for what reason this Relator (though a considerable Person) never yet knew; where after they had staid some time, that Miscarriage was question’d at a Council of War, and one of the chief Officers of the Forlorn order’d to have his Sword broke over his Head, with other disgraceful Impositions, and two Colonels of the Army were order’d to draw up the Causes of this Miscarriage to send to England; which, because ’twas thought would too much reflect on them in Power that were to supply them, was by those Colonels judg’d inconvenient, and so ’twas never done. The number of Men lost by Stragling, Sickness, and this unhappy Engagement, amounted in the whole to about two hundred and thirty. In a short time after this, it was order’d to Ship the Men; which done, after some Debates amongst the Commissioners what was best to be done, Provisions nor Utensils yet coming fit for the Design intended, which was to possess some considerable Place in the Main, it was agreed, That they should steer their Course for the Island of Jamaica; which they did accordingly, and on the tenth day of May 1654. with little opposition possess’d it: where the same Soldiers have shew’d not onely such Courage and Resolution upon all occasions, (in many and frequent Encounters and Invasions made by the Spaniards, not onely with Soldiers of those Parts, but such as have been sent from Spain, Naples, Catalonia, and other Places) as might speak them English-men but such hath been their Patience and Sufferance, as none of this Nation in the memory of Man have ever been put to, the Effects whereof their King and Countrey, ’tis hop’d, will have occasion to remember, to their immortal Honor and Renown.
Hispaniola is surrounded with several other Isles, as 1. Eastward appears Saona, full of pleasant Woods and Pastures, with Cattel feeding on them: in former times it produc’d much Cazabi for the City Domingo; but since the Spaniards murder’d all the Inhabitants Anno 1502. it hath never been inhabited. 2. The Rocky Shelf St. Catalina. 3. Abaque. 4. Navaza. 5. Guanabo. 6. Tortuga, abounding in Hogs, and 7. Beata, famous for the excellent speckled Wood which grows there, and a swift River, which oftentimes detains the Ships there whole Moneths.
CHAP. XIV. Porto Rico, and Monico.
[Sidenote: Bounds and Extent of Porto Rico.]
Another of those call’d The Isles of Barlovento, is Boriquen, anciently so nam’d, but now more generally Porto Rico, from St. Juan de Porto Rico, its chief Town, is an Island fifteen Leagues distant from Santa Crux, to the North-West, and about as many from Hispaniola to the South-East, but from the Continent or main Land of Paria (which seems to be the nearest) a hundred and thirty, or a hundred thirty six, as some reckon. It lieth almost in a quadrangular Form, being suppos’d to contain about thirty Leagues in length, and not less than twenty in breadth, in eighteen and nineteen Degrees of Northern Latitude.
The Island on the North, which is less fruitful than the South part, produces Gold, and is generally water’d with many Rivers. There is also Silver, Tin, Lead, Quicksilver, and Azure, us’d by Painters. The Rain generally falls there between May and August. A little before, or in the beginning of Harvest, the Hurricanes breaking forth from the Clouds, rage in such a manner, that it is impossible for any Ships to endure the Sea, and a Northern Blast generally doth great damage to the Plants here.
[Sidenote: Sierra del Loquillo.]
Ten Leagues towards the South-East beyond Porto Rico, appears Sierra del Loquillo, being a continu’d Ridge of Mountains which runs through the whole Island from East to West, extending both ways to the very Sea-shore.
[Sidenote: Rivers.]
Twenty three Rivers discharge their Waters also into the Ocean; amongst which the chiefest is Cairabon, particularly noted for ten Sugar-Mills which are erected upon its Banks.
[Sidenote: Trees.]
The Hills, Plains, and Valleys, are invested with variety of Trees peculiar to this place, as Tabunuco, which affords a medicinal Gum, good against Lameness, and green Wounds: it is also of great use to preserve a Ship’s Keel from the Worms.
Another Tree call’d Maga, is everlasting Wood, and bears a great Flower like a Rose.
The Leaves of the Higillo Pintado-Tree cures all manner of Bruises.
The same power is also in the little Tree Sancta Maria; as likewise in another by the Spaniards call’d Balsamo.
The Body of the Tree Zoyla is so thick, that fifteen Men holding Hands together, cannot encompass the same.
The speckled Wood, and Cassia Fistula grow also here in great abundance.
[Sidenote: The poisonous Apple-Tree.]
Here is likewise Apple-Trees, which grow by Rivers sides, or on the Sea-shore, whose Fruit is rank Poyson, and who-ever sleeps under the shadow of them, will certainly be Lame: The Fruit eaten generally causes Death; or if Nature be so strong in him that eats of it, to overcome the same, yet he is certain to lose his Hair.
As hurtful is the prickly Herb Quibey, which bears white Flowers like Violets.
[Sidenote: The Tree Guiaba.]
But this Island receives the greatest prejudice by the Tree Guaiaba, because it grows in most places, and over-runs Plains and Hills, so spoiling all the Grass, between which and the fore-mention’d Tree there is such an antipathy, that none will grow near it. The Tree bears a brown Apple full of Kernels, which are eaten by Beasts and Fowls, and from which falling on the Ground when ripe, grow up in new Trees, which makes the Countrey a meer Wilderness: The Body of it is smooth and of a pale colour, the Leaves hard, and glittering, and grow two and two over one another; the Flowers have also five Leaves, in the middle of which rises a Crown like that on a Peacock’s Head: The Fruit, which is cover’d with a soft Doun, and somewhat longer than the European Apple, when cut through, hath a pale red Pulp, full of eatable Kernels: before it is ripe, it is of a sharp taste, yet good boyl’d, but when ripe, of a most delicious and pleasant rellish; nevertheless too much of it causes a Lask: The Roots, which are red without, and white within, are juicy, sweet, and very long, the Leaves sallow and sowre of taste.
[Sidenote: The Beast Javaris.]
Amongst the strange Beasts the Javaris, Opassum, and Tatow are the most remarkable. The Javaris are taken for a sort of wild Hogs, and have short Ears and a Navel on their Backs, little Tails, some black, and some spotted white.
[Sidenote: The Opassum.]
The Opassum is as big as a Cat, hath a sharp Mouth, the upper Jaw-bone hanging over the lower, long, straight, and broad Ears, and a very long Tail, bald at the end, which winds in a Circle; on its Back black Hair sprinkled with grey Spots, and with its sharp Claws climbs up the Trees, where it feeds on Fruit, and sometimes preys on Fowls. Nature hath furnish’d this Beast with a strange Bag under its Belly, whereof the in-side hath a far softer Doun than the out-side, in which the young ones lie and suck, after which the Bag opening, they creep out upon the Ground. The Males have also a Bag, which serves onely to carry their Young in, for they and the Females carry them by turns.
[Sidenote: The Tatow.]
The Tatow, which is arm’d with sharp Scales, hath the Mouth of a Hog, and at each Foot five sharp Nails: when it is Hunted, or goes to sleep in the Night, it draws its Head, Legs and Tail under its scaly Coat of Mail, like a Tortoise, and in that manner lies secure against all manner of danger.
The Venison taken here is very delicate, but difficult to be got; for this Beast having a breathing-place in its Back, never tires with running, and when encompass’d by the Dogs, falls valiantly on those that are nearest to it, and often tears them in pieces.
[Sidenote: Chief Towns and Cities.]
The chief Towns in this Island, are 1. Porto Rico it self, commonly call’d St. John de Porto Rico (so term’d by Christopher Columbus, as being the first Land discover’d by him in the Year 1493. at that time when he could not perswade his Seamen, wearied out with continual hardship, from returning, if they discover’d not Land in two days) a strong and neat Town, built by the Command of Philip the Second, King of Spain: It was attempted by Sir Francis Drake in the Year 1595. without success, but a few years after taken by the Earl of Cumberland.
2. St. Germans, in the West part of the Island, three or four Leagues distant from the Sea.
3. Arrecibo, Westward from Porto Rico, where the most noted Haven is of those Parts, for all the others are full of Rocks and Sands.
The antient Inhabitants of this Island maintain’d continual Wars with the Cannibals (probably the Natives of the Islands so call’d) who us’d every year to come thither: those that were conquer’d, as well of the one side as of the other, were eaten by the Conquerors, so that in effect, both sides were but a different sort of Cannibals.
Columbus Landing here, found a great House surrounded with twelve others, but all of them empty and desolate.
This Island (which formerly is said to have been under the absolute Power of one sole King) the Spaniards not much regarded at first, having enough to do with Hispaniola, where they found more Gold than on Porto Rico.
[Sidenote: The building of St. Germans.]
Anno 1510. John Ponce de Leon obtain’d a Commission from the Court of Spain, to be chief Governor of this Island, and built Caparra, which Place was inhabited twelve years, notwithstanding it stood behind a scraggy Mountain, in a desart place far up in the Countrey; but their thirst after Gold, of which some Veins were discover’d there, made them dispence with all other inconveniences: yet at last beginning to be weary of this desolate and barren place of Settlement, they remov’d to Guanica, water’d by many Rivers, whose Sands had great quantities of Gold-dust. Not staying long there, they went four Leagues farther, and call’d their new Plantation Soto Major. Lastly, returning again, they setled themselves in the former Valley Guanica, and built the fore-mention’d Town St. Germans by the River Guaorabo, which makes an inconvenient Haven.
[Sidenote: The Situation, Description and Fate of St. Juan de Porto Rico.]
Juan de Porto Rico stands Eastward at the beginning of the North Coast, on a small Peninsula, joyn’d to the Island by an high Isthmus call’d Puente de Aguilar. Near the Mouth of the Haven lies on a rising Hill the Fort Morro Empinado, built triangular by John de Texila and Baptista Antonelli (who also planted there forty Guns), and surrounded with the Sea, which renders it a well fortifi’d place. The Governor Diego Mendez de Valdez had in it fifteen hundred Men and eighty Horses, when the fore-mention’d valiant Duke of Cumberland with a far less number fell upon him in the Year 1597. and not onely took the City Porto Rico, but several other Fortifications; and besides an invaluable mass of Treasure he carried away eighty Guns. Sometime before this Defeat the Spaniards under the Government of Christopher, Son to the Portuguese Duke of Camigna, were Invaded by the Cannibals, and all that were then upon the place utterly destroy’d, none of them escaping but the Bishop and his Servants, who betimes fled away with the Church Ornaments; so that the Islanders from that time were put out of doubt that the Spaniards were mortal, for they suppos’d them immortal when first they saw their great Ships, and heard the noise of their thundering Cannon.
[Sidenote: The Casique Yaguara’s Experiment.]
Hugh Linschot relates, That the Casique Yaguara threw a Spaniard into the Water, to try whether he would drown or not, and seeing him wholly depriv’d of Life, he concluded by consequence that the rest of them were mortal, and thereupon he set upon them when they were seeking for Gold, and kill’d above a hundred and fifty of them.
Peter Martyr relates farther, That these People, though very expert in Arms, yet were oftentimes beaten by the Cannibals, who at one time carried above five thousand People out of Porto Rico for their Winter Provisions.
[Sidenote: The Avarice and Cruelty of the Spaniards.]
Nor was their Condition better’d after the Spaniards conquer’d the Island, for those that could not furnish them with Gold, were certain of Death: Nor were their Cruelties in other places undivulg’d to this People before their Arrival; whereupon (as is related by Peter Ordonnez de Carellos) the Casique Hatvey being inform’d of the Spaniards Approach, took an Oath from his Subjects, That they should never discover where the Gold lay, though they should be put to death for it; For (said he) Gold is their God, for which they make so many cursed Blood-baths where-ever they come; therefore throw the Gold into some very deep Waters, for when the Spanish God is sunk, the Spaniards will lose their Courage, and not plague us so much for it.
[Sidenote: Ceremonies of the old Natives.]
Many were the Idolatrous Ceremonies of the old Natives of this Place, which would be too tedious to relate; but amongst the rest, they annually kept a great Feast, at which the Casiques summon’d all their Subjects to a Temple appointed for that purpose, where the Priests had prepar’d an Idol ready set forth in all its Pageantry; near which the Casique plac’d himself, when upon the beating of a Drum all the Commonalty came also into the Temple; the Men painted with divers Colours, having on their Heads Plumes of Feathers, about their Necks, Legs, and Arms, Strings of Sea-shells. The Married Women had a light Covering about their Middle, but the Maids went stark naked, all of them Dancing and Singing Songs in praise of the Idol; after which having saluted the Casique, they thrust little Sticks down their Throats, so to bring up all they had upon their Stomachs; which done, and sitting down with their Legs under them, they began to Sing anew, often bowing and shewing Reverence to the Casique; whilest some Women carried Baskets of Bread amongst those that Sang, and utter’d certain Prayers, which were answer’d by some of the Men; the Bread being bless’d by the Priests, they gave every one a piece, with which they return’d home very merry and jocund.
But the God of this Island, whoever he was, hath been a long time left without Worshippers; for those that were left by the Invading Cannibals, were cruelly massacred by the Spaniards, insomuch that they have been thereby necessitated to furnish themselves with Negro’s to work in their Mines and Sugar-Mills; and these also not able to endure such hard Entertainment, ran most of them away; for when a Negro did not bring Gold enough home at Night, his Master tying him naked to a Stake or Post, and beat him with Rods or Switches so long, till the Blood ran down his Back, then pour’d boyling Oyl into the Wounds, and then threw Pepper and Salt into them, and so let him lie, or else put him into a Pit, out of which his Head appear’d onely. But those that fled gathering together, sometimes met with the Spaniards, and paid them in their own Coin.
[Sidenote: The Islands Mona and Monico.]
Eastward of Porto Rico, and betwixt it and Hispaniola, there lieth a little, but fruitful Island call’d Mona; and Westward of that, another call’d Monico, or Monetta; which last the English, when time was, found so admirably stor’d with a sort of wild Fowl, that the huge Flights of them seem’d to darken the Air over their Heads, and upon their Landing found such plenty of their Eggs upon the Shore and Ground thereabouts, that they presently laded two of their Boats with them. But how peopled or possess’d, not so well known.
CHAP. XV. Cuba.
[Sidenote: The several Names of Cuba.]
[Sidenote: Its Bounds.]
Westward, or rather to the North-West of Hispaniola, lieth Cuba, accounted one of the four Isles of Barlovento, and by Columbus, upon his first Discovery, call’d Joanna, afterwards Fernandina, then Alpha and Omega, till at last the present Name prevail’d; it is parted from the other by a Frith, or narrow Channel, which runneth betwixt the Capes of St. Nicholas, belonging to Hispaniola, and that call’d Mayzi, belonging to Cuba: On the North it hath a Frie of little Islands call’d The Leucayæ Islands, of which more in their proper place, so many and so thick scatter’d, that they serve for no small Security and Defence of the Island on that side; besides, a part of the Peninsula of Florida, which Coasteth it likewise Northward; on the West it hath the Countrey of Jucatan, which is part of the Continent, but at a distance of forty or fifty Leagues; and on the South, Jamaica. It is reckon’d to be in length from Cape Mayzi, which looks towards Hispaniola to the Cape of St. Anthony, which is upon the Bay of Mexico, two hundred and thirty Leagues; but in breadth in some places not above fifteen or sixteen Leagues over; in the broadest place from Jardines to Lucanaca, not above forty, in others sixty five. But for fertility of Soil, contending with Hispaniola it self, and for temperature and healthiness of Air, much exceeding it; nor less rich formerly in good Mines both of Gold and Silver, and plentifully stor’d at present, not onely with Sugar-Canes of the best Growth, but likewise with abundance of Ginger-Roots, Cassia-Fistula, Mastick, Aloes, Cinamon, Long-Pepper of America, as they call it, and divers other sorts of Spices. The Pastures no less abounding with Cattel of all sorts, especially of European Breed; the Rivers and Coasts of the Sea with good Fish; no scarcity of Fowl, whether wild or tame; good Brass and Iron still found, with some Gold in the Rivers, especially those which fall into the Bay Xagua on the South side of the Island; the chiefest thereof are Arimao, La Luna, De Mares, and Cauto; the biggest of them falls Southward into the Sea; all of them breed store of Crocodiles, which have oftentimes seiz’d both upon Men and Beasts, and carrying them into the Water, devour’d them there.
[Sidenote: Trees.]
The Cedars breathe forth a most excellent sweet smell, and grow so large, that out of the single Trunks of some of them Boats are said to have been made, capable to hold forty, sometimes sixty Men.
There are also many other very odoriferous Trees, yielding a certain Rozen or Gum, no less precious than the Storax.
[Sidenote: Birds.]
But nothing grows here more plentifully than Vines, the Bodies or Stocks of which are as thick as a Man’s Middle, and bear excellent Grapes.
Besides Partridges, Turtle-Doves, and other Fowl, the Sea-shore breeds thousands of Cranes, which when young, are white, but when old, become of several Colours; they stand commonly with their Legs in salt Water, which they drink.
[Sidenote: Manner of taking Parrots.]
The Parrots which breed here us’d to be taken by the Natives after a strange manner: A Boy having a Bundle of Herbs about his Head, climbs up to the top of a Tree, holding a Parrot over his Head, which by griping he forces to make a noise, and thereby draws others to come flying about him; upon which, being expert in this Art, he throws a String with a Noose made fast to a Stick about them, and pulls them to him.
There are a sort of four-footed Serpents, by the Natives call’d Yguanas, of which they us’d to eat.
The Flesh of Tortoises or Turtles, was accounted a great Dainty amongst them, especially those of the biggest size, of which some have been known to weigh a hundred and thirty Pound: The Feet of them are said to cure the Leprosie and Scabs.
Amongst the peculiar Trees of this Countrey, are the Zagua and the Caninga.
The Cotton, which is of the natural Growth of this Place, is exceeding fine.
Here is also the Bird Flamingo, and another sort of Bird call’d Bambayas.
In former times Cuba was Govern’d by several Lords, each Commanding over his own Province.
[Sidenote: Chief Provinces of Cuba.]
The chiefest of these Provinces are Mayzi, Bayamo, Cueyba, Camguey, Macaca, Xagua, Habana, and Uhima; some of them are plain, others mountainous, and being more or less fruitful, were very populous, before the Spaniards came thither, but since their cruel Massacres, scarce any of the antient Natives are left: Nor are the Spaniards here at present very populous, considering the largeness of the Island.
In the Province of Camaguey is a Valley three Leagues in bigness, where Nature produces a great number of large Stones so exactly round, that no Man with a Compass can make a more exact Circle.
Though the Gold, which is digg’d out of the Mines, and found in Rivers, is none of the purest, yet the Copper which this Countrey affords is accounted excellent.
[Sidenote: Serpents.]
The Serpents here are about the bigness of a Hare, having Heads like Weezles; they prey on little Beasts call’d Guabiniquinazes, and have been accounted delicious and wholsom Meat.
[Sidenote: Antient Customs of the Natives.]
The antient Natives went formerly naked. The Men made it a Custom to forsake their Wives when they pleas’d; yet the Women were still oblig’d to be faithful to them, though from the very first day of their Marriage they were taught to Cuckold them, by a certain wicked Ceremony in use amongst them; for the Bridegroom lay not with his Bride the first Night, but suffer’d her to be enjoy’d by one of his Friends of equal Quality with himself, whether he were Lord, Merchant, Laboring-man, or what Estate soever.
[Sidenote: The Spaniard at first beaten by the Natives.]
This Island was reduc’d under the Spanish Government not without great effusion of Blood; for the Natives having had continual Wars with the Cannibals, as hath been said, were not ignorant in the Exercise of Arms. The first Spanish Commander sent against them was Valdivia, whom they slew with all his Men, and hew’d his Ship in pieces. Little better escap’d Fogeda, whose Men were all cut off, and he himself escaping very miraculously, died not long after of his Wounds in St. Domingo.
[Sidenote: St. Jago built by Valasquez.]
Within two years after, viz. Anno 1514. Diego Velasquez with better success set forth for Cuba, where the first thing he did was to build a City, which he call’d St. Jago, lying near a Southern Bay, full of Fish, and defended with several small Isles, behind which the Ships in the greatest Storm may Ride very secure; by reason whereof the new City increas’d so much, that in a short time it could shew two thousand Inhabitants, a brave Church, a Cloyster, and was made a Bishop’s See, but subordinate to that of St. Domingo.
[Sidenote: The Copper Mountains.]
[Sidenote: St. Jago taken by the English.]
Three or four Leagues from the City are those famous Mountains, by the Spaniards call’d Sierra de Cobre, or The Copper Mountains, from the abundance of that Metal which the Mines in them afforded, and do yet afford; but the City was afterwards almost left desolate, (divers Houses in the same standing empty) having in it scarce two hundred Inhabitants; which made it the easier to be taken by a hundred and sixty English-men, led by Captain Cliff, Anno 1601. who carried from thence a hundred thousand Pieces of Eight, and a Ships Lading of Hides and Sugar.
[Sidenote: Baracoa.]
2. Besides St. Jago, Valasquez built the Town Baracoa, on the Eastern Shore of Cuba, wash’d by the River Mares, which falls into the Ocean between two Mountains on one side, and a flat Point on the other, and is a most excellent Harbor: Not far from which grows the best Ebony Wood.
[Sidenote: St. Salvador.]
3. He also built the Town St. Salvador, one of the most healthful Promontories of all Cuba, near the River Bayamo, which produces round Stones, us’d there in stead of Bullets.
[Sidenote: Trinidad.]
4. He likewise built Trinidad, before which hardly accessible Harbor many a Ship hath been cast away: But this Fort was by a mighty Storm levell’d even with the Ground.
[Sidenote: Puerto del Principe.]
5. Near the Haven before the Town Puerto del Principe is a Fountain, out of which at certain times flows liquid Pitch.
[Sidenote: Villa Sancti Spiritus.]
6. The Town call’d Villa Sancti Spiritus, six Leagues from the Ocean, boasts fifty brave Houses, and is wash’d by the River Saaz.
[Sidenote: Havana.]
7. The chiefest City which the Spaniards possess in the West-Indies, and the present Seat of their Governor, is Christovall de Havana; which stood first on the South side of Cuba, but was afterwards built on the North, opposite to Florida: The Harbor before it is large and safe, for it is able to contain a thousand Ships, without the least endangering of one another, and yet the Entrance so narrow, between a Promontory and a square Fort, that two Ships cannot Sail in together: the shallowest part thereof hath six Fathom Water. On each side the Mouth of the Harbor is a Fort, the one call’d Mesa de Maria, which stands built on a Champain Ground; the other call’d Morro, which lies at the Foot of two Hills, on whose tops several Guns are planted, which Command the Town and Haven.
Betwixt these two Forts is a Tower cover’d, on the top whereof is a round Lantern, wherein stands continually a Watch-man, who puts forth as many Flags as he discovers Ships at Sea, to give notice thereof to the City, which is a Mile from thence.
Before Havana stands a third Castle, well stor’d with Guns, as likewise the rest are, in all to the number of two hundred and forty, and strongly Garrison’d; of which great care was taken by the General Jean de Texeda, and Baptista Antonelli, an Architect, sent thither by Philip the Second, King of Spain, to secure the Place from all foreign Assaults, because the Plate-Fleet, and other Ships that come out of the West-Indies, have their place of Rendezvouz here, and from hence set Sail altogether for Spain. The City stands along the Haven, and hath two Churches with spiry Steeples. The Houses are now built after the Spanish manner.
[Sidenote: Havana several times Assaulted and taken.]
But Havana was not so strongly fortifi’d in former times, for Anno 1536. it could not resist a mean French Pyrate, who losing the rest of his Fleet was driven hither by Storm, and conquering Havana, had burnt the same, consisting at that time of woodden Houses cover’d with Thatch, had not the Spaniards redeem’d them from the Fire for seven hundred Ducats; with which Money the French set Sail, when the day following three Ships arriv’d from New Spain before Havana, and having unladed their Goods, and preparing themselves for Battel, pursu’d the Pyrate; whom getting sight of, the Admiral, who Sail’d before, durst not venture to Engage him alone, but staid for the other two Ships: from which cowardly Action the French Pyrate taking Courage, fell on the Spanish Admiral, who without firing a Gun ran his Ship ashore, and deserted the same: the next Ship thereby discourag’d Tacking about, made away from the Enemy; on which the third also follow’d, insomuch that at last they were all three taken by the French; who encourag’d with this unexpected Victory, steer’d their Course a second time to Havana, where they got as much more Money from the Inhabitants as before. After this the Spaniards built all their Houses of Stone, and a Fort at the Mouth of the Harbor, yet nevertheless the City lay open on the Land side; of which the English Fleet, Cruising about in those Seas, being inform’d, Landed not far from Havana, and enter’d the City before Day-break: the Spaniards thus suddenly surpriz’d, fled into the Woods, whilest the English plunder’d and ransack’d the City without any resistance. But this was not the last Blow which Havana receiv’d, for during the Wars between the Emperor Charles the Fifth, and the French King Henry the Second, a Ship set Sail with ninety Soldiers from Diep to Cuba, where they made themselves Masters of St. Jago, and carried great Treasure away with them: Thus enrich’d, they set in the Night on Havana, but found their Expectations frustrated, for all the Houses were empty, the Spaniards (being so often Plunder’d) having remov’d all their Goods to their Countrey Houses, which lay scattering about the Island. Whilest the French were searching the Houses, two Spaniards came under pretence of agreeing with them, but their Design was chiefly to take an Account of their Enemies Forces. The French demanded six thousand Ducats of them: to which the two Spaniards reply’d, That all their Goods would not raise so much: then going to their Party, inform’d them of the number of the Enemies, and their Demands; whereupon Consulting, some judg’d it best to comply with a forc’d Necessity, and if they could not get any thing abated, to pay the demanded Sum: but most of them were of another opinion, alledging, That the number of the French was not equivalent to their Demands, and that it would not be for their Credit, to yield up their Estates so tamely, without trying their Title by the Sword: This being judg’d fittest, they march’d to Engage them with a hundred and fifty Men, which about Midnight fell on the French, and at the first Onset slew four of them; but upon the firing of the Gun they were all alarm’d, and after a small Skirmish, put the Spaniards to flight. The Conquerors enrag’d at this treacherous Plot of the Spaniards, set fire on Havana, in which at that time was a good quantity of Pitch and Tarr; with which the Gates, Windows, Roofs, and Pent-houses being all bedaub’d over, were in few hours all in a light Flame; after which the Churches in order for their firing, were also going to be over-laid with the same combustible Matter; at which a Spaniard boldly desir’d, that the Temples erected for Gods Service might be spar’d: to which he was answer’d, That People who keep not their Promise, nor had any Faith, had no need of Churches to profess their Faith in. The French not satisfi’d with burning, pull’d down the Walls, and utterly demolish’d the Fort.
[Sidenote: The Haven Xagua.]
The Haven Xagua also is not inferior to any, the Mouth thereof being a Boweshot wide, and within, ten Leagues: The Ships are securely shelter’d behind three Islands, and also the Mountains, which rise along the Shore.
[Sidenote: The Success of Admiral Peter Hein.]
Moreover, the Inlet Matanca is not onely eminent, by reason of the round Mountain Elan de Matancas, which rises from a low Ground; but chiefly for the Expeditions of Admiral Peter Peterson Hein, who being sent out by the West-India Company, to Cruse up and down before Havana with one and thirty Sail, was from thence by a strong Current driven down to Matanca; where he stood from the Shore, when ten Ships came just running amidst his Fleet, and were all taken but one: About Noon they discover’d nine Ships more, which Sailing along the Shore, got into the Inlet Matanca, where they ran aground; whither Hein following, came up to them the next Morning by Break-of-day, and after a small Resistance took them, being valu’d to be worth above a hundred and fifteen Tun of Gold, besides the Musk, Ambergreece, and Bezoar with which two other Ships were laden, and another rich Prize.
This large Island Cuba (as we have before observ’d) formerly divided into so many populous Territories, is now in a manner desolate; for according to the Spaniards Relation to the Admiral Henry Jacobson Lucifer, when he was before Havana, Cuba had upon it not above sixty thousand Persons in all, in Anno 1627. But who-ever Reads that which Bishop Bartholomeo de las Casas hath written in his Book, (Printed first in Sivill in the Spanish Tongue, and afterwards, with the King of Spain’s leave, in French at Antwerp) will easily find the reason, why Cuba and many other Indian Countreys lie so desolate; and how sensible the Indians were of the Spaniards usage, appears by this following Story, related by the said Bishop, of a Casique call’d Hathuey, who before the Spaniards approach’d his Countrey, Anno 1511. fled from Hispaniola to Cuba; where afterwards he was taken by the Spaniards, and condemn’d to be burnt alive with green Wood: whilest he was tying to a Stake, a Franciscan Monk Preach’d to him the Mysteries of the Christian Religion, of which he had never heard; and likewise that he should ascend up to Heaven if he dy’d in that Belief; but if not, burn perpetually in Hell: Whereupon Hathuey asking the Franciscan, If there were any Spaniards in Heaven? and being told there were, answer’d, I will rather converse amongst the Devils in Hell, than amongst the Spaniards, whose Cruelty is such, that none can be more miserable than where Spaniards are.
Before we conclude the Description of Cuba, it will be material to add some Passages of a Letter from Major Smith, Governor of the Isle of Providence, who was taken there in the Year 1665. which will give light to the knowledge of the present State, not onely of Cuba, but of some other parts of America, belonging to the Spaniards; which is as followeth:
[Sidenote: Maj. Smith’s Letter concerning Cuba and other Parts.]
Cuba is a very good Island, and in it is generally the best Land, for so large a Countrey, as I have seen in America, although I have travell’d the main Continent in several places, and have cross’d from the North Sea to the South Sea, as also the North side of Hispaniola, and most parts of Jamaica.
This great Island is easie to be conquer’d, and would make the best Plantation, besides the prejudice it would be to the Spaniard, and the great advantage to our Nation; for instance, Had we the Port and City of Havana, which might in all probability be reduc’d with two Regiments of good Soldiers from Jamaica, carrying with them two or three Sloops or Shallops for Landing Men, fitted with good Arms and other Necessaries for an Assault, presently after their Armado hath pass’d out of the Indies, which is once in two years, towards the latter part of the Summer. There is good Landing on the West side of the City, where it lies open; and you need fear no Ambuscado’s: but not on the East side on the Harbor, for there you will be gawl’d by the strong Castle of the Moare, until the City be secur’d; but when that is once taken, you may easily reduce that Castle also, there being no danger of their re-taking it, until the next Armado arrives there, which will be almost two years, against which time you will have Planters enough from other of our Islands, to Manure the Land, and assist the Soldiers in defence thereof: This once effected, would utterly ruine the Spaniards, for these Reasons: Our Ships lying both here and at Jamaica, would be at all times ready to gather up their stragling Fleet, which it is difficult to keep imbodied without the help of that Port of Havana, it being impossible for their great unruly Ships to turn up to Windward from the Bay of Mexico, or Puerto Bello, without separation; and on the other side, to pass the Gulf of Florida, is for them as impossible, where they always Rendezvouz, Victual, Water, and provide all things necessary for their Return into Spain; after all which they diligently wait for a convenient Season of Winds and Weather (being much observ’d from the Changes of the Moon) when to pass that dangerous Straight: for to say truly, the Spaniards are neither very fit for Sea nor Land-Service, excepting some Officers and Soldiers bred in Flanders for Land-Service, and a few Biscainers for Sea-Affairs. They are so sensible of their Weakness, and jealous of their Riches in those Parts, that it is very difficult for any ingenious Man to get his Liberty, being once taken, fearing he might give such Intelligence, as to be thereby the cause of their ruine, witness their blind-folding of all Strangers, when they pass their Cities and Castles; for they much dread an old Prophecy amongst them, viz. That within a short time the English will as freely walk the Streets of Havana, as the Spaniards now do; which indeed had been easily perform’d with a third part of the English Army sent to Jamaica, and a far greater advantage to the Nation: for I esteem that Port and Harbor of Havana in the West-Indies, equivalent (against that Nation) to Tangier in the Straights of Gibraltar; and if we were at once Masters of both, it would without doubt so straiten the Spaniards, as absolutely to admit us a free Trade into their Ports of America, where they impart our Commodities, and sell them for ten times more than they first cost in Spain, by reason of the great plenty of Silver: which Trade would not onely be of infinite advantage to us, but also prevent them of their future enslaving of our Nation in Chains as now they do; for being employ’d about their Fortifications, they are worse us’d, all things consider’d, than if they were taken by the Turks.
I have seen other parts of the West-Indies, where the Spaniards might be fleec’d of considerable quantities of Riches, as at Panama, where their Silver Bars lie pyl’d up in Heaps in the open Streets Day and Night without Guard for five or six Moneths together, waiting the arrival of the Armado; which when arriv’d in Puerto Bello, they Transport it thither with so slender a Guard, for so great a Treasure, as would be an easie Prey to a thousand resolv’d Men (although of extraordinary value for so small a Charge;) but here is no resting, nor long remaining, they being so numerous (as in all other places of the main Land) though of great Wealth, and easily gotten with a Catch and away: But to my purpose,
This Island of Cuba hath adjacent to it great Conveniences of Salt and Fishing; and in it are very great plenty of Horses, Neat, Sheep, and Hogs, both wild and tame, of a far larger and better breed than any other parts of America: It hath also many very rich Mines of Copper already open, and is the onely Place that supplies all the West-Indies with Metal for the infinite number of Ordnance they have in all their Ports and Castles, both in the North and South Seas; but whether it hath any Mines of Silver or Gold, I know not; but if there were any such, they would not adventure their opening and discovery, fearing the Invasion of that Island, whereunto is so easie access by Sea, and of so great import to their whole Interest in America: for which reason also they refuse to work any Mines in Florida, that are nigh the North Sea, (although they have there very many) but do rather employ themselves about others farther up in the Countrey, although with greater Labor and Cost, for conveyance of the Product by Land to Mexico. And lastly, (for its full praise) this Island hath many very good Ports and Harbors of great advantage to Ships, for safe passing the Gulf; and should the Spaniards keep three or four Frigats always plying between the Western end of Cuba and that of Havana, off and on, it were impossible for any Ships of ours that came from Jamaica to escape them; the Scales turn’d would be their Case to all America. Neither wants it great Sugar-works, which have Water-mills and Horse-mills, and very many large Cocoa Walks, the most and best Tobacco: and in short, it produceth all other Commodities, that any of our American Islands have knowledge of.
CHAP. XVI. Jamaica.
[Sidenote: Situation and Extent of Jamaica.]
The Island of Jamaica lieth North from the Southern Continent of America, in the Sea call’d Mare del Nort; and South from the Isle of Cuba about twelve Leagues; and West from Hispaniola twenty, in eighteen Degrees of Northern Latitude; and beareth from Rio de Hacha North-West, a hundred and fifty Leagues; from Santa Martha North North-West, a hundred and thirty five; from Rio Grande North-West, a hundred and thirty; from Carthagena North, fourteen; from Porto Bello North-East and by North, a hundred and ninety; from the Bay of Darien, North and by East, a hundred and seventy; from the Bay of Mexico, a hundred and fifty. It is of Form something nearly resembling oval, being in length from East to West, about fifty four Leagues, or a hundred and seventy Miles; from North to South in the broadest and middlemost part, about three and twenty Leagues, or seventy Miles over, and so groweth narrower and narrower towards each Extream; in circumference about one hundred and fifty Leagues, or four hundred and fifty English Miles.
[Sidenote: Nature of the Country.]
This Island is well water’d with Springs and Rivers, and is all over, especially in the Western parts, full of high Hills and Mountains: It is also well Wooded; for the North and South parts chiefly abound with tall and large Woods: Nor are there wanting every where Savanas, or Pastures, which are thought to have been Fields of Indian Maiz, till the Spaniards arriving here, brought in Horses, Cows, Hogs, and Asinego’s to feed.
[Sidenote: Temperature of the Air.]
The Air in this Place is more temperate, and the Heat more tolerable, than in any of the rest of the Barloventi, by reason of the cool Breezes which constantly blow from the East, and the frequency of Showers of Rain, and refreshing Dews which fall in the Night.
This is also the onely Island of the Barloventi, which is not subject to violent Storms and Hurricanes; and the Diseases which are predominant here, are onely bred by Intemperance, as Surfets, Feavers, and Agues, or occasion’d by ill Diet or Slothfulness.
[Sidenote: Commodities of the Island.]
The Commodities of this Island are very many; and first for Vegetables, the Sugars are so good, that they now out-sell those of Barbado’s 5 s. per Cent.
Cocoa, of which there are many large Walks; and greater plenty by improvement may easily be produc’d.
Tobacco, so good, that the Merchants give Six pence a Pound for it, and buy it faster than the Planters can make it.
Indigo is producible in great abundance, if there were Hands sufficient employ’d about it.
The Cotton of this Place is accounted very firm and substantial, and preferr’d before any that grows in the neighboring Islands.
Of Tortoise-shell there is also good store, by reason that much of that sort of Tortoise is taken on this Coast.
Here are also great variety of Dye-woods, as Brasiletto, Fustwick, Red-wood, a kind of Log-wood, and several others, besides divers of those that are accounted the most curious and rich sorts of Woods, as Cedar, Mohogeney, Lignum-vitæ, Ebony, Granadilla, and others, which are frequently Exported.
Moreover, there are very probable testimonies, that there are Mines of Copper here, since both there have been those who affirm to have seen the Oar wrought out of one of them, and the Spaniards report the Bells that hang in the great Church, to have been Cast out of this Island Copper. As for Silver, the English are said to have been shew’d a Silver-Mine behind the Mountains, West of Cagway.
Ambergreece the Spaniards report to have been often found on this Coast.
Salt might be made here in great abundance, there being three good Salt-pans; and Salt-petre hath been found in many Parts.
Ginger is reported to grow better here than in most of the Caribbee Islands; and Cod-pepper very plentifully; and also a certain kind of Spice call’d Piemete, being in the form of East-India Pepper, of a very aromatical and curious taste, partaking as it were of divers species together: it grows wild in the Mountains, and is very highly valu’d amongst the Spaniards.
Of Drugs and medicinal Plants there is here a very great abundance, as Guaiacum, China-Root, Cassia-Fistula, Veuillard, Achiotes, Tamarinds, Contrayerva, Ciperas, Adiantum Nigrum, Aloes, Cucumis Agrestis, Sumach, Acacia, Misselto, with several others, both Drugs, Balsoms and Gums.
Cochinele is produc’d by a Plant that grows in this Countrey, but it is not made without much care and curiosity, and the English are not yet well experienc’d in the Husbanding thereof, besides that the Growth of the Plant is much obstructed by Easterly Winds.
[Sidenote: Beasts.]
There is here greater store of Cattel than in any of the rest of the English Plantations in America, as Horses, which by reason of the great number of them, are bought very cheap.
Cow’s, of a large size, and of which vast numbers are yearly kill’d.
Asinego’s and Mules, both wild and tame, being a very serviceable sort of Cattel in those Countreys.
Sheep, large and tall, and whose Flesh is counted exceeding good, but the Fleece worth little.
Goats in great abundance, being a sort of Cattel very peculiar to that Countrey.
But of all other Cattel, Hogs are here in the greatest plenty, both wild in the Mountains, and tame in the Plantations; and they are more in request for Food than any of the rest, their Flesh being counted both of a better rellish, and more easily digestible than the Hogs-flesh of our Parts.
[Sidenote: Fish.]
The Fish that is very plentifully caught in these Coasts is of infinite variety, and quite of another kind from what we have in this part of the World, the principal whereof is the Tortoise, which is taken in great abundance both on these Coasts, and in the Islands Camavas.
[Sidenote: Birds.]
The tame Fowl in this Place, are chiefly Hens, Turkies, and Ducks; but of wild Fowl infinite store, as of Guinee Hens, Flamingo’s, Teal, Ducks, Wigeon, Geese, Pigeons, Snipes, Plovers, Parrots, Turtles, Parachites, Machaw’s, with divers others.
[Sidenote: Fruit-Trees and other Plants.]
Choice and excellent sorts of Fruits are here in great abundance, as Cocao-Nuts, Mannes, Maumees, Supatas, Suppotillias, Avocatas, Cashuds, Prickle-Apples, Pickle-Pears, Sower-Sops, Custud-Apples, and many others.
For Timber-Trees, Platanes and Pines.
And for Garden-Herbs, Radish, Lettice, Parsley, Cucumbers, Melons, &c.
The antient Inhabitants us’d two sorts of Bread, the one made of stamp’d Roots, and the other of Corn, which is Reap’d thrice every year, and grows with such success, that one Pint sow’n yields two hundred.
They had a strange way to make their Cazari Cakes of the Root Juca, which keep good a year: They first press’d out the Juice with great Weights, which if drunk raw, occasions sudden Death; but boyl’d, is pallatable and good.
Potato’s are here in great abundance, and grow like Artichokes in a moist Soil, and shoot forth Leaves of a dark-green Colour, like Spinage; they spread upon the Earth by Stalks, and bear a Flower like a Bell, at the end of which grows the Seed: the Roots are generally White, but sometimes Red, Marble-colour’d, Yellow, and Violet; they are not onely pleasing to the Pallat, but accounted very wholsom when stew’d in a close cover’d Pot, with a little Water.
But much daintier are the Ananas, which grow on a Stalk of a Foot long, surrounded with sixteen large sharp Leaves, between which grows a Fruit like a Pine-Apple, but much bigger, with an uneven Rind, of a pale Green, and inclining to a Carnation on a yellow Ground; on the top shoots out a red Bunch of Leaves and Flowers; the innermost Pulp melts on the Tongue, and is of so delicious a taste, that it exceeds all other Dainties; the Seed produces Fruit once.
Of this Fruit there are several sorts, the chief whereof is accounted a special Remedy against a bad Stomach, Gravel, Poyson, and Melancholy.
The Drink made of Ananas is no way inferior to Malvasia Wine.
[Sidenote: A sort of sensitive Plant.]
Here you may observe a remarkable Secret of Nature in a certain ever-green Plant, which grows either on the Bodies of old Trees, on the Rocks, or in the Woods; the Stalk whereof surrounded with Leaves, full of dark red Spots, bears a sweet-smelling Violet-colour’d Flower, the Leaves whereof as soon as touch’d, close up together and die, and according as they are held in the Hand a shorter or longer time, this strange alteration continues.
[Sidenote: Ginger.]
Since the Spaniards planted Ginger on Jamaica, it hath grown there in great abundance; the Male Plant (for it is divided into Male and Female) hath generally bigger Leaves than the Female; the Stalks, which are without Knots, have more Leaves upwards than downwards, and spreads along the Earth, still take Root anew; when the Leaves wither, then the Ginger is commonly ripe, but it hath not that poinancy whilest green as when dry’d.
[Sidenote: Cotton.]
The Cotton of this Island (of which the Clothes and Hammocks that are made, are vended in most parts of the Western World) grows on a Tree of equal heighth with a Peach-Tree, with a straight Stem or Body, out of which shoot Boughs of an equal length, and at equal distance; between the Leaves, which are narrow and long, grow red Flowers, and from them, oval Cods, which when ripe, inclose the Cotton, and a Seed like Pepper.
[Sidenote: Description of the Alligator.]
Of hurtful Creatures here, besides the Manchonele, and a sort of Snakes call’d Guaana’s, wherein ’tis thought there is little or nothing of a poysonous quality; the most observable is the Alligator, with which many Rivers and Ponds abound; it is a very voracious Creature, but is seldom known to prey upon a Man; it moves swiftly and strongly forward, but turns slow; the biggest of them are about twenty Foot long, their Backs scaly and impenetrable, so that they are hardly kill’d but in the Belly or Eye; they have four Feet or Fins, with which they go or swim indifferently; are observ’d to make no kind of noise; their usual course for getting their Prey, is to lie on their Backs as dead, then with a sudden onset to surprize what-ever Fowl or Beast comes fearlesly near them; the best caution other Creatures have of them is from the strong smell that flows from their Bodies: to requite the harm done by them, they have something of vertue, for the Fat or Oyl of their Bodies hath been experienc’d to be an admirable Ointment for all kinds of Pains and Aches; they Lay Eggs no bigger than a Turkies by the Water side, still covering them with Sand, which heated by the Sun-beams, hatcheth the young ones, who naturally creep into the Water.
[Sidenote: Muschilli and Merrywings.]
In some parts of the Countrey there are also a sort of stinging Flies, call’d Muschilli and Merrywings, but the English Quarters are little infested by them.
Hugh Linschot writes, That the antient Natives of this Place were a subtile and sharp-witted People, skilful in Handicrafts, and expert in warlike Affairs, above all the Americans besides.
[Sidenote: First Discovery of the Island.]
The Island was discover’d by the Spaniards under the Conduct of Columbus, who first built there the Town of Mellilla; which disliking, he remov’d again to Oristana; and finding that an incommodious and unhealthy Situation, he remov’d again to another Plantation, where he built a very fair Town, first call’d Sevilla, afterwards St. Jago de la Vega, consisting of about seventeen hundred Houses, two Churches, two Chappels, and an Abbey, being the chief, if not the onely Seat of the Spaniards before the arrival of the English, for their Estanchas, or small Plantations, were committed wholly to the custody of their Slaves.
Diego, the Son of Christopher Colonus, (or, as he is vulgarly call’d, Columbus) was the first that was constituted Governor of this Island, and sent Juan de Squibello Commander, who upon their first arrival here committed such horrid Cruelties and Massacres, that (as the fore-mention’d Bartholomeo de las Casas writes) five thousand Inhabitants were in a short time reduc’d to less than three hundred, multitudes being put to death in a most inhumane and barbarous manner, some roasted alive, others torn in pieces by the Spanish Dogs, besides many other studied ways of Butchery, too dreadful to be read with patience; nor were they free from Civil War amongst themselves, which first began in this Island.
[Sidenote: Attempts of the English upon his Island.]
The first and onely Attempters upon this Island since the Spaniards made themselves Masters thereof, have been the English, who in the Year 1592. under the Conduct of Sir Anthony Shirley Landed upon it, & got clear possession thereof, none of the Spaniards that were then upon the Place daring to make the least resistance; but not thinking it worth the keeping, they soon deserted it, and made Sail back again for England: after which they remain’d unmolested for a long time, till in the Year 1654. a Fleet of English was set out for Hispaniola by Cromwell, under the Command of Colonel Venables, with a Design for the taking of St. Domingo; but meeting with ill success in the Enterprize, and being forc’d to quit that Island with loss of Men, and frustration of their hopes, they steer’d their Course for Jamaica, and on the tenth of May in the Year abovesaid, with little opposition possess’d themselves of it. Upon their approach to St. Jago the Inhabitants thereof deserted it, and betook them to the Mountains, gaining time by a pretence of Treaty, to secure their Women and Goods; and oftentimes making Incursions upon the stragling Parties of the English, slew and took many Prisoners by surprize: but being weary of this wild and irregular kind of living, they betake themselves at last to the Isle of Cuba, where many of them, the Grandees especially, were permitted by favour to continue, the rest being by the Vice-Roy commanded back, with promise of speedy and considerable Supplies; by that time this remnant of the Spaniards was near tir’d out with hardship and necessity, some being very much discourag’d and driven to utter despondence of Mind, others destroy’d out-right, part of the long promis’d and expected Supply arrives, the greatest part being to follow soon after; but finding the Islanders so few in number, and in so sickly and necessitous an Estate, they would not joyn with them, but maugre all the Governor’s Perswasions or Commands, retreat to the North part of the Island, and there fortifie at a place call’d Chireras, expecting every day fresh Recruits; which not coming time enough, and their Quarters being discover’d, they were set upon by the English, and most of them either slain or taken Prisoners: not many Moneths after the rest of the Spanish Forces Land, being in all about thirty Companies, with Ordnance and good store of Ammunition; who falling presently to make strong Fortifications at Rio Novo, are nevertheless in a short time utterly defeated by the English: Upon which, and several other ill Successes, despairing to re-gain the Island, they Ship off their Women and the richest of their Goods; and the Negro Slaves grown Masterless, by the general either slaughter or departure of their Patrons, shake off their Obedience to the Spaniards, and constitute a Governor of their own, a Black, yet submit themselves, and own Subjection to the English Government, the Spaniards from Cuba, both by their Perswasions and monethly Contributions, in vain endeavoring to reduce them; onely some few there were that stood out, whom the rest not onely made it their business to discover, but help’d the English to take them, insomuch that at last the Spanish General not having above fifty Men left him, was forc’d to seek for Peace, and offer’d Terms of Accommodation; which the English General would not be drawn to accept of, unless upon Condition that he should deliver up to Justice as many as were left of those that had barbarously murder’d any of our Men, either in time of Treaty, or after Quarter given.
The English in this Island are setled for above a hundred Miles along the Countrey from the Eastward.
[Sidenote: Chief Towns.]
Their chief Towns are 1. St. Jago, (built by the Spaniards, as afore mention’d) which lieth six Miles within the Land, North-West from the Harbor of Cagway. Here the English have built a small Fort.
2. Passage, a small Town, built also by the English six Miles from St. Jago, for the convenience of going to Cagway, consisting of about fifty Houses and a Fort, whence cross this Harbor, about three Leagues distant is the Town of 3. Cagway, seated on the Extream end of the Point, containing in it above six hundred Houses, all built by the English, besides the Governor’s Palace, and the Houses where the Stores for the Army are kept.
This is counted the most healthful Place in all the Island, and the very Scale of Trade, where all Merchants, Strangers, and Sailors reside.
Here, upon the utmost Angle of the Point towards the Sea, is a round Tower, built of Lime and Stone; about which is rais’d a strong and regular Fort, containing sixty pieces of Ordnance.
[Sidenote: Port Royal.]
This Town is now call’d Port Royal, and is thought to contain about sixteen thousand Inhabitants.
[Sidenote: Landward.]
A Mile from hence is another Fort, call’d Landward, which runs from the Harbor to the Sea, to defend the Town from any Attempt by Land.
[Sidenote: Little Island.]
Off the Mouth of the Harbor towards the Sea, lie divers small Islands, the most Western of which being within half a League of the Fort, and between which and the Fort every Ship that comes into the Harbor is necessitated to pass: It is call’d Little Island; where a Fort is likewise rais’d, to defend the Mouth of the Harbor, containing eight pieces of Ordnance.
Another Fortification is at Portmorant, which we shall make mention of amongst the Harbors.
[Sidenote: Chief Ports and Harbors.]
The chief Harbors of this Island, are 1. Port Anthony, on the North, a very safe Land-lock’d Harbor, onely the coming in is somewhat difficult, the Channel being narrow’d by a little Island that lies off the Mouth of the Port.
2. On the East of the Island is Portmorant, a very capacious Harbor, where Ships do conveniently Wood and Water, and Ride safe from all Winds.
3. On the South is Port Cagway, a Harbor wonderfully convenient, secure and capacious, being five Leagues over in some places, in others four, and at the narrowest, three; it is Land-lock’d by a Point of Land that runs twelve Miles South-West from the Main of the Island, having the great River that comes by Los Angelos, and St. Jago running into it, and divers Springs about it, where Ships do conveniently Wood and Water. Here is every where good Anchorage, the Road being so deep, that a Ship of a thousand Tun may lay his sides to the Shore of the Point, and load and unload with Planks afloat.
4. On the West is Point Megrill, a Port very convenient and secure; to Windward from which, a little North-West, is the Seat of the old Town of Mellilla, founded by Columbus, as afore mention’d.
The chief Plantations of this Island, are 1. Portmorant, above the Harbor before mention’d, and by the two Rivers that run into it. Here are good Plantations of Sugars, Cottons, Tobacco’s, &c.
2. Hence about ten Miles lieth Morant, where a thousand Acres of Land have been taken up for my Lord Willoughby, and a Company of Merchants.
3. Hence farther Leeward lieth Yallow, having good Plantations of Cotton, Tobacco, and other Provisions, excellent Savana’s, and some store of tame Cattel.
4. Thirty Miles hence, on the North side of Cagway is Ligonce, where are excellent Plantations of Sugar, Cotton, and Tobacco, very pleasant Savana’s and some store of wild Cattel.
5. Twenty Miles farther West, nine Miles from the Harbor of Cagway, is Los Angelos, having some Plantations of Sugar, Cacao, and Tobacco, all which were old Spanish Plantations, and are less considerable than those made by the English in other places.
6. Eight Miles from hence, North-West, is Guanaboa, where likewise were some Spanish Plantations, since improv’d by the English, who have very many excellent Plantations of Sugar, Cacao, &c.
7. Hence West South-West lieth Guatabacoa, a most pleasant rich and fertile part of the Countrey, abounding with Cattel, and excellent Savana’s. Here the Negro’s setled that revolted from the Spaniards, who are endeavouring to make some Plantations of Tobacco’s and Provisions, and with them are setled some few English, who have divers Walks of Cacao.
[Sidenote: The several Governors of the English in Jamaica.]
The several Governors of this Island since the taking of it by the English, are as followeth: General Robert Venables staid upon the Place about three Moneths after the taking of it, and at his coming away for England he left the chief Command to Major General Richard Fortescue, who liv’d Governor about three Moneths; after which Lieutenant General Edward Doyly was by the Army elected President; but upon his coming away soon after for England, Lieutenant General William Brain was sent over Governor in his room; who living in the Government about three quarters of a year, did as it were bequeathe it again to Doyly, for he was chosen by vertue of a Blank Commission, wherein Brain had inserted his Name whom he would have succeed, and remain’d Commander in Chief both by Land and Sea till His Majesty’s Restauration, and then by His Majesty’s Letters Patents was confirm’d in the Government, and so was the first that was Governor there for His Majesty: The next that succeeded was the Lord Windsor, upon whose coming away Sir Thomas Muddiford was sent Governor, and after him Sir Thomas Linch, who remains Governor at present.
CHAP. XVII. The Islands call’d the Lucaies.
[Sidenote: Situation and Description of the Lucaies.]
Having done with the four Islands of Barlovento, as they are term’d, viz. Hispaniola, Cuba, Porto Rico, and Jamaica, we come next to the Lucaies, so call’d, as some think, from Lucaioneque, one of the biggest of them; they lie over against Florida, Westward from the Bermudas, South-West and North of Hispaniola, and the rest of the Barloventi; and because they are but small ones, and lie so near the Continent, Geographers sometimes describe them as a part, or appertaining to the Continent. The chiefest of these Islands are Lucaioneque afore-mention’d, Bahama, and Guanahani; Lucaioneque is accounted the biggest of them all, and lieth in twenty seven Degrees between Bahama and Guanahani. Bahama lies nearest to the Coast of Florida, and gives Name to the Straights so call’d, which run between the Cape of Florida and it, with such a violent Course and Torrent, that although it be above sixteen Miles broad, yet many times neither Wind nor Oars, can prevail against it; that though the Winds be prosperous, Ships cannot enter it; and if it be cross, they go with the Current; yet those Straights the Spanish Fleet must pass in their Return from the Havana towards Spain. Guanahani was the first piece of American Ground discover’d by Christopher Columbus, and therefore by him call’d San Salvador, or St. Saviour, because that thereby he was deliver’d from the mutinous rage of the Seamen, who threatned to throw him over-board, if they discover’d not Land in such a time. There are besides a number of small Isles scatter’d up and down, which are generally comprehended in the number of the Lucaies; one is Little Island, encompass’d with a company of Shelves call’d the Bimini, so that it is hardly accessible: there goes a Tradition, that it hath been inhabited by very beautiful Women, the fame of whom drew many to attempt to Land there and take up their Habitation; in which Attempt many were cast away: There is said to be a Fountain in the midst of it, of such a Vertue, that whosoever drank of the Waters of it, had their Youth renew’d. Also three Islands, or rather Rocks, call’d Los Martyres, lying to the South-East of Cape Florida, and cover’d for the most part with a whitish Sand and a few Bushes growing on them: they seem at a distance to bear a resemblance of Men, impal’d, or bound to Stakes, as the Martyrs in the primitive Times usually were, which occasion’d the Spaniards so to Name them; ’tis very dangerous to come too near them, but to have sight of them is of great use to Men at Sea; for by passing these Rocks, and leaving them on the South-East, they certainly know, that they are now entred the Straights of Bahama, that is, that they have left the Ocean, and are fall’n in amongst those many Islands, which do, as it were, Barracado and Block up the Eastern Coasts of America, towards Nombre de Dios and Terra Firma, as they call it, through which the Continent is sometimes dangerous, by reason of contrary Winds; and always such, that it requires the skill and care of an experienc’d Pilot to conduct the Ships well thither. The rest are Abacoa, twelve Leagues long; Yuma, twenty Leagues in length, and eight in breadth, between twenty four and twenty five Degrees; Yumeata, fifteen Leagues in length, between twenty three and twenty four Degrees; Jamana, seven Leagues every way; Yabague, ten Leagues likewise, and lying between twenty two and twenty three Degrees; Magaguana, twenty Leagues long, and ten broad; Quagua, ten Leagues every way, and lying between twenty and one and twenty Degrees; Caycos, five Leagues in length, and in the one and twentieth Degree; Mackre, in the twentieth Degree, encompass’d with Shelves; Abreo, environ’d also with Shelves, and fifteen Leagues long; also Guatao, Cigateo, Guanima, Jabaka, Triangulo, and several others.
[Sidenote: The Lucaies left desolate by the Spaniards.]
On these Islands are no Inhabitants; those that did live there were a harmless simple People, and therefore the easier taken and carried away by the Spaniards that have made them so desolate: Many of them seem of a good Mold, and the Latitude promiseth much fertility. The Air is certainly good and wholsom, and not so extream hot as other Parts of that heighth. There is scarce any Beast on them, save a Coney that hath a Tail like a Rat, but Pigeons and other Birds in great numbers.
There is the Gum Benjoin, of the best and worst sort; Guaiacum, Sasaparilla, and Sassafras; and on some of them Red-wood and Ambergreece.
Our English Sea-men are little acquainted with these Islands, though they Sail round them yearly.
[Sidenote: English landing upon them.]
In the time of the Rebellion one Captain Sail and others, obtain’d a Patent, making thither on the Coast of an Island, which was call’d Illutheria; his Ship was wrackt, but the People recover’d the Shore with a few Necessaries.
The Coasts of most of them are dangerous, and bad to make, and that Ship that shall be near or amongst them, must keep the Lead always going; but with a wary Pilot, and care in giving the Islands a fair Birth, they are easily recover’d.
The Spaniards know this Place well, and have a yearly Trade thither for the aforesaid Commodities, and amongst the Islands are Wracks of divers of their Ships.
CHAP. XVIII. The Caribby Islands.
[Sidenote: Situation and Names of the Caribbee Islands.]
The Caribbee Islands, as they are generally call’d, are a Row or Ridge, as it were, of lesser Islands, which extend themselves almost in fashion of a Bowe, from the Coast of Paria as far as St. John de Porto Rico; they are otherwise call’d The-Caraibes, sometimes The Camercanes, and by some The Islands of Cannibals, or Man-eaters, (though this Appellation cannot in reality be more appropriated to these Islands, than to many other, either Islands, or Parts of the Continent of America;) lastly, whereas all the Islands between Florida and New Spain, and Southern America, are by some comprehended all under the Name of The Antilles; yet the Caribbees and the Antilles are most generally, and, we conceive, most properly accounted the same; and they are so call’d, either as lying like a Bar before the greater Islands, or Quasi Ant-Isles, i. e. Opposites Isles; they lie all under the Torrid Zone, between the eleventh and nineteenth Degrees of Northern Latitude, and are twenty eight in number; but before we come to treat of each of them in particular, we shall take notice of the most observable of those things which are common to them all in general.
[Sidenote: Temperature of the Air.]
The Air of all these Islands is of a good temperature and healthy, and the Heat not so excessive in them at any time of the year, as might be conjectur’d from their Situation under the Torrid Zone, by reason of a gentle East Wind, which rising in the Morning, continues most commonly till towards the Evening, allaying the scorching heat of the Sun, and refreshing the Air; but the Nights are commonly very cold; and it is observable, that by how much the hotter any Day hath been, so much the colder the Night following happens to be; whereof this reason is given, That the Vapors rais’d in the Day-time by the Sun, and falling down condens’d at Night, do very much cool the Air; but it is never so cold as to Freeze.
For half a year together Day and Night are equal in these Parts, and the rest of the Year the Day fourteen hours long, and the Night ten.
From April to December there commonly fall here great Rains, and all that Season is accounted Winter, and the Drought and Heat of the other Moneths is taken for Summer; but the Woods of these Parts looking ever green, make as it were continual Summer.
[Sidenote: Nature of the Soil.]
The Soil is generally as fertile as in most places of Europe, and each Island furnish’d with fair Rivers, Brooks, Lakes, Springs, Wells, and other Sources of fresh Water, besides in many places Mineral Waters, which are us’d with good success in the cure of several Diseases; also out of some Mountains store of Brimstone is digg’d, and it is conjectur’d that there are not wanting Mines of Gold and Silver, if they were well look’d after; and there hath been often found Crystal upon the Sands by Rivers sides.
[Sidenote: Vines growing naturally in the Caribbees.]
The Vine, though wild, and naturally growing in the Woods, yet yields a very large fair Grape; and those which are cultivated in their Gardens or Vineyards, bear excellent Grapes twice a year, but very little Wine is made of them, in regard they find it will keep but very few days.
[Sidenote: Wheat not apt to grow there.]
Wheat in the Caribbees grows up no farther than the Blade, and the reason is judg’d to be, because through the rankness of the Soil, and for want of Winter, this Grain springs up fast, and hath not substance enough left in the Root to supply it up to maturity; but no doubt but Barley, Rye, and those other Grains, to the ripening of which more Heat is requir’d, would thrive there very well.
Besides Lemmon-Trees, Orange-Trees, Citrons, and Pomegranates, and other Fruit-Trees growing in Europe, there are very many sorts of Trees, Herbs, Pulse, and other Plants, of a different kind from those amongst us, and peculiar for the most part to these Islands.
[Sidenote: Fruit-Trees.]
Of Fruit-Trees, the most observable are the Goyavier, somewhat resembling the Laurel, onely having a softer Leaf, and of a brighter Green; its Fruit about the bigness of a Pearmain, but full of little Kernels like a Pomegranate.
The Papayer, which is of two kinds, one generally growing in all the Islands, the other proper to Santa Crux; the first hath a Leaf not much unlike that of the Fig-Tree, and the other bears a Fruit about the bigness of a Melon, which by the Portuguese is call’d Mamao, from its resemblance of a Womans Breast: the Tree is hollow and spungy within, and grows up sometimes to the heighth of twenty Foot.
The Monick, call’d by the Islanders Corsot, from the Name of an Island from whence the Seeds were first brought by the Dutch, and bearing a Fruit like a small Cucumber not perfectly ripe.
The Junipa, or Jenipa, by the Portuguese call’d Jenipapo; and by the Brasilians, Jenipaba; having Leaves like those of the Walnut-Tree, Flowers like the Narcissus, and a Fruit like a bak’d Apple, which when it falls from the Tree makes a noise like the Report of a Gun discharg’d, which is said to proceed from the bursting forth of the Seed out of the thin Skin enclosing it, and breaking with a violence; the Juice of it Dyes of a Violet-colour, and the Swine and Birds that feed upon it, are said to have their Flesh and Fat of the same colour.
A sort of Vine commonly call’d The Raisin-Tree and by the Caribbeeans, Ouliem; whose Fruit being like a large Violet-colour’d Grape, hath in stead of the several small Grain-stones which are inclos’d in the Husks of common Grapes, one hard Stone, like that of a Plumb.
The Acajou, bearing for Fruit a kind of Chesnut, in form of a Hares Kidney, which serves for a Crest to a very fair Apple that by degrees grows under it, of which the Islanders make a Drink, very much in esteem amongst them, being of an excellent taste.
The Icaco, a kind of small Plumb-Tree, so much coveted, and held for a Delicacy by some People that live near the Gulf of Hondures, that they are from thence call’d Icacos.
The Monbain, which Fruit being a kind of yellowish Plumb, is chiefly made use of to mix in the Drinks of Ouicon and Maby, to make them taste the better.
The Courbury is by some reckon’d to be but a species of the Monbain, onely more full of Leaves, and growing higher and bigger; but the Fruit of the Courbury is sufficiently different from that of the Monbain.
The Indian Fig-Tree, differing in Leaf from the common Fig-Tree, but whose Fruit both in figure and taste is not much unlike the Fig growing in these Parts: This Tree is commonly of such a vast Bulk, that the Branches of some of them have been seen to afford shelter to two hundred Men.
A kind of Service-Tree, differing from ours, by its exceeding heighth, fair Leaves, and pleasant Fruit.
The Prickly or Thorny Palm, so call’d from its being arm’d all over with Prickles, both Trunk and Leaves; by incision into its Branches a sort of Wine is made, and it is conjectur’d to be the same Tree which the Brasilians call Ayry.
The Franc-Palm, an exceeding high and streight Tree, bearing on the top of its Trunk a whitish marrowy substance, by the French call’d Choude Palmiste, or Palm-Cabbage; for being boyl’d with the thin Leaves that incircle it, and well season’d, it is reckon’d amongst the Delicacies of the Caribbees.
Latanier, another kind of Palm; and Cocoa, which is also reckon’d amongst the several sorts of Palms; this last is a Fruit-Tree famous all over America, and hath been at large describ’d elsewhere.
There are also many other Trees fit for Dying, Joyners Work, and Building, (besides the Acajou before mention’d, of the single Trunks whereof are made those long Shallops call’d Pyrages, which are able to carry fifty Men) as
The Acomas, of the same bulk and heighth with the Acajon, and equally esteem’d by Joyners and Carpenters, and of the Fruit whereof the Woodquists grow fat at a certain time of the year.
The Rose-wood, to be rank’d amongst the chiefest of those Trees that are made use of by Work-men.
Indian Wood, a very precious and useful Tree for several sorts of Materials, and of a very fine scent.
The Iron-Wood, so call’d from its hardness, weight and solidity, above all that have hitherto been spoken of, and beyond either Cypress or Cedar for incorruptibility.
Brasile-Wood, so call’d as growing most plentifully in Brasile.
Yellow-Wood, denominated from its Colour, and much esteem’d for its usefulness in Dying green Ebony, easily taking the lustre of the true Ebony, and being very useful for the making of Cabinets and other curious Pieces of Work; It also Dyes of a very fair Grass-green.
The Roncon, by the Brasilians call’d Urnex, in the Husks, succeeding the Flowers whereof, which grow in little Bushes at the end of the Branches, is enclos’d a most rich Vermilion Dye, of a very soft and viscous Matter.
Here are also many other Trees, either useful in Medicine, or other ways advantageous, as the Cassia-Tree, of the bigness and figure of a Peach-Tree; the long Pipes or Cods whereof, containing the Medicinal Fruit, are well known amongst us by the Name of Cassia-Fistula, and to be had at every Apothecaries.
Medicinal Nuts, each Nut containing three or four Stones in so many Cells, every one of which is inclos’d within a thin white Pellicle, pleasant enough to the taste, and out of which is extracted an Oyl, us’d by the Portuguese in several both Culinarie and Physical occasions.
The Cinamon-Tree, so noted for its aromatick Bark; also Sandal-Wood, Guaiacum, and Sassafras.
Cotton-Tree and Soap-Tree, whose Uses the very Names imply, and which Trees have been touch’d upon elsewhere.
The arch’d Indian Fig-Tree, the Bodies of which Trees have been antiently the sculking Holes and Retreats of the Inhabitants from their Enemies; the Bark is useful for Tanners.
The Gourd-Tree, of the bigness and heighth of a great Apple-Tree, and of which are made most of the Houshold Vessels and Utensils, which are in common use at present amongst the Inhabitants.
The Mahot-Tree, of the Bark of which are made Laces and Points.
The Manyoc, or Mandioque, of whose Root the Cassava Bread is made, and which growing in several places of America, hath been already taken notice of; as likewise the Banana-Tree, and that call’d The Apple-Tree of Paradice, otherwise Adam’s Fig-Tree, the Fruit being reported to be of a very delicious taste.
Other Trees not known in Europe, are the Maposu, divers kinds of Thorny Wood, the Milky Tree, being of a venomous quality, the Mancenilier, and that whose Root beaten to Powder, and thrown into Rivers, intoxicates the Fish, with several others of less note.
Innumerable sorts of Shrubs might here in like manner be reckon’d up, but the chiefest are, That remarkable Plant, anciently known by the Name of Ricinus, and commended for its Vertues by Galen and Dioscorides.
Coral-Wood, so call’d from its little Seeds, which being as red as any Coral, are us’d for Bracelets.
The Jasmin, bearing a Flower of an admirable sweet scent.
The Candle-Wood, so call’d from its combustibleness, by reason of an aromatick Gum which is within.
The Herbs, Flowers, Roots, and Pulse which grow here, are some of them common in all parts of Europe, as Cabbages, Onions, Chibols, Melons, all sorts of Millets, Cucumbers, Citruls, Parsnips, &c.
Others, if not peculiar to this Island, yet growing chiefly there, and in some few parts of America besides, as the Raquettes, so call’d from the resemblance its Leaves have with a Racket, a thorny-spreading Bush, whose Fruit being of a Vermilion colour, makes the Urine of those that eat of it as red as Blood. Some liken this Plant to the Tunas, already describ’d, which yields that rich Scarlet Dye call’d Cochinele.
The Torch, so call’d by the European Inhabitants; by the Native Islanders, Akoulerou; a great Thistle, or thorny Bush, putting forth from the middle of it long streight Stalks like Torches, and bearing Fruit like a great Fig, not unpleasing to the taste.
The Lienes, creeping upon the Earth, and spreading up and down like Ropes, and bearing brown Husks of a Foot long, wherein are enclos’d a Fruit call’d Sea-Chestnuts, of which are made Boxes to keep Snush, Tobacco, or the like.
A sort of Sempervivum, which runs twisting upon Rocks, Trunks of old Trees, like Misseltoe, and sometimes on the Ground.
A sort of sensitive Plant, call’d by the Inhabitants Haestiel, or The Living Herb; of which kind of Plant something hath been already touch’d upon, and which being transplanted, is kept in several Gardens of the Curiosi as a Rarity.
The Sweet-Rush, whose small Root dry’d, and reduc’d to Powder, helps Women in Travail.
The Balisier, whose Leaf apply’d, mollifies and cools inflammations of Wounds.
The Dart-Herb, whose Root bruis’d and apply’d, draws away the Venom of empoyson’d Darts; besides Scolopendria, a sort of Aloes, several kinds of Maidenhair, and other medicinal Herbs.
The Granadilla, or Passion-Flower, growing in several other parts of America, and describ’d elsewhere.
There is also a sort of Pease in some of these Islands, differing from ours, and call’d The Pease of Angola, as first brought from thence. Likewise a sort of Beans call’d The Seven-years Beans, by reason the same Stalk bears seven years one after another.
The Herb call’d The Musk-Herb, from the dusky colour of its Flower, and the sweet scent of the Seed, grows also in these Parts very frequent.
The Pyman, or American Pepper, is the same with that before describ’d under the Name of Axi.
Their Potatoe is a Root not unlike the Topinambous, or Jerusalem-Artichokes, otherwise call’d Saligots, growing plentifully in our Gardens, but more wholsome, and of a better taste.
The Anana’s, or Pine-Apple, accounted a most delicious Fruit, of an admirable sweet scent, and very pleasant to behold, grow not onely plentifully in these Islands, but in most places of America; besides the Sugar-Canes here, and in many other places, but not so generally.
The Plant from which is got the Dying Material call’d Indico, is very different from that which grows in Madagascar, which bears small odoriferous Flowers, of a white and purple Colour mix’d together.
Of these Trees, Herbs, and other Plants, which are produc’d in these Caribbee Islands, some are more peculiarly of the Growth of one Island, some of another; so that we shall have occasion to speak more largely of some of them, when we come to speak of each Island in particular.
The four-footed Beasts found in these Islands, are chiefly the Opassum, the Javaris, the Tatan, the Agouty, and the Musk-Rat, which being all of them no less known in other Parts of the New World, have been already taken notice of, and of which we may have also occasion to treat more at large in the particular Islands, we shall therefore onely name the other Animals, whether Birds, Reptiles, Insects, or Fishes, as partly having been heretofore treated of, and partly to be describ’d hereafter.
The Birds are, the Fregates, Fauves, Craw-fowl, or Grandgawsiers, Flammans, Swallows of America, Arras, Canides, Parrots, Parroquito’s, Tremblo’s, Sparrows of America, Eagles of Orinoca, Manstenys, Colibrys, besides what are common amongst us, as Herons, Coots, or Moor-hens, Black-birds, Feldivars, Thrushes, Turtles, Woodquists, Pintado’s, &c.
[Sidenote: Reptiles.]
The Reptiles are, Anotis, Zoquets, and Maboujats (of which farther mention will occur in the Isle of St. Christopher) Globe-mouches, nam’d by the Caribbeeans, Oulleouma, Scorpions, and several sorts of Lizards, call’d by the Caribbeeans, Ouamayaca; by the Brasilians, Senembi; and by other Indians, Jaquanas.
[Sidenote: Insects.]
The Insects are, besides these common with us, as Glow-worms, Palmer-worms, Spiders, Bees, &c. the Cucuyos, mention’d in Hispaniola, and the Flying Tyger.
[Sidenote: Fishes.]
The Fishes are, Sea-Parrots, the Dorada, by some call’d The Sea-Bream, by others, The Amber-fish; the Bonite, the Needle-fish, the Epadon, or Sword-fish, the Marsovin, the Requiem, the Remora, the Lamantin, the Becune, the Sea-Urchin, the Sea-Woodcock, besides Whales, and a certan Fish call’d, for its hideous shape, The Sea-Devil, and lastly, the Sea-Unicorn, with a particular Description of which we shall conclude, as having it from Monsieur du Montel, who was an Eye-witness thereof.
[Sidenote: Description of the Sea-Unicorn.]
“This Unicorn (saith he) was pursuing a Carangue, or some other lesser Fish, with such earnestness and impetuosity, that not considering that it needed a greater depth of Water than the other, it stuck with half the Body dry on a Sand-bank, whence it could not recover the deeper Waters ere it was destroy’d by the Inhabitants: It was about eighteen Foot in length, being at the largest part of its Body about the bigness of a Barrel: It had six great Fins like the ends of Galley-Oars, whereof two were plac’d near the Gills, and the other four on the sides of the Belly at equal distances; they were of a Vermilion red colour: All the upper part of the Body was cover’d with great Scales, about the bigness of a Crown-Piece, which were of a blue colour, intermix’d with several Spangles of Silver; near the Neck the Scales were closer, and of a dark colour, seeming as it were a Collar; the Scales under the Belly were yellow, the Tail forked, the Head somewhat bigger than that of a Horse, and near the same figure: It was cover’d with a hard and dark-colour’d Skin; and as the Land-Unicorn hath one Horn in his Fore-head, so this Sea-Unicorn had a very fair one issuing out of the fore-part of his Head, about nine Foot and a half in length; it was as streight as could be, and from the place whence it came out it grew smaller and smaller to the very Point, which was so sharp, that being thrust hard, it would enter into Wood or Stone, or some more solid Substance; it was at the place where it came out of the Head, about sixteen Inches about, and from thence to two thirds of the length it was like a Screw, or, to say better, made waving like a wreath’d Pillar, save that the Channels grew smaller and smaller, till they gently ended in a Point, which was two Inches beyond the fourth Foot: All the lower part had over it an Ash-colour’d Skin, which was all over cover’d with a small soft Hair, short as Plush, and of the colour of a wither’d Leaf, but under that it was as white as Ivory: As to the other part, which seem’d naked, it was naturally polish’d, of a shining Black, mark’d with certain small white and yellow Strokes, and of such solidity, that a sharp File could hardly get a little small Powder from it: It had no Ears standing up, but two spacious Gills, as the other Fishes; the Eyes were about the bigness of a Hens Egg; the Ball, which was of a Skye-colour Enamell’d with Yellow, was encompass’d with a certain Vermilion, which had beyond it another as clear as Crystal: The Mouth was wide enough, and furnish’d with several Teeth, whereof those before were extreamly sharp, and those towards the Throat in both Jaws were broad, and a little knobbed: The Tongue was of a length and thickness proportionable, and cover’d with a rough Skin of a Vermilion colour. What was further remarkable, is, that this Fish had upon the Head a kind of Crown, rising above the Skin about two Inches, and made oval-wise, the Extremities whereof ended in a Point. Above three hundred Persons of that Island did eat of the Meat of it, and that plentifully, and thought it extreamly delicate; It was interlarded with Fat, and being boyl’d it came up in flakes like fresh Cod, but it had a much more excellent taste.
“Those who had seen this rare Fish alive, and had with great Levers broken the Back of it, affirm’d, That he had made prodigious Attempts to thrust them with his Horn, which he turn’d with an inexpressible dexterity and nimbleness, and that if he had had as much Water under him as would have born him up, he would have been too hard for them all. When the Entrails were taken out, it was found that he liv’d by Prey; for there were within him the Scales of several kinds of Fish.
“What could be preserv’d of this miraculous Animal, especially the Head, and the precious Horn fastned in it, hung up near two years at the Guard-house of the Island, till Monsieur Le Vasseur, the Governor of it, presented one Monsieur Des Trancarts (a Gentleman of Xaintonge, who had given him a Visit) with the Horn. Not long after, coming over in the same Ship with the Gentleman, who had that precious Rarity put up in a long Chest, our Ship was cast away near the Island of Payala, one of the Assores, and all the Goods were lost, but nothing so much regretted as the loss of that Chest.”
[Sidenote: The Natives how call’d.]
The Natives call themselves Cubao-bonon, that is, Inhabitants of the Islands, and Caribbeeans; which last Denomination was not onely receiv’d amongst the American Isles, but also on the Main Continent of the Northern and Southern America, long before the Spaniards coming thither.
[Sidenote: Their Original.]
[Sidenote: The Cofachites come to Terms of Agreement with the Apalachites.]
Concerning the original of these People, there are several Opinions; for those who make them to be Extracted from the Jews, have no other testimony, but that they abstain from Swines-flesh: Those that take them for a People fled from the great Islands, Hispaniola, Jamaica, Cuba, and Porto Rico, to save themselves from the Spaniards Cruelty, dispute against a known Truth; for who knows not, that the Indians who escap’d the Spanish Slaughter, have not the least resemblance either in Language or Customs with the Cannibals? nay more, they are mortal Enemies to them; besides that, the Cannibals at that time when Columbus first arriv’d, possess’d those Places which they now inhabit. The Cannibals seem ignorant themselves in this Point: for they affirm their Extraction to be from Guyana, where the Calibites speak the same Language, and also observe the same Customs and Religion: The occasion of their removal they ascribe to the King of the Arovages, who made all the adjacent People about his Court, Slaves to him; which to prevent, they first went to Tabago, where being strengthned by new Comers, they resolv’d to take revenge on him; and Engaging with him in a Field-Battel, utterly defeated him, and spar’d none of his Party alive, except the Women; whence it proceeds, that the Arovage Women have the same Customs and Language with the Caribbeans. But Bristock, an English Knight, by long Conversation experienc’d in the several American Tongues, saith, That the Caribbeeans have their Original from the Apalachites in Florida, who being a valiant People, destroy’d many of the Natives that inhabited Mexico, that so they might Settle themselves there; to which purpose they built a City like that of Apalache. The Cofachites inhabiting Northerly, and spread over a barren and Rocky Countrey, made use of this opportunity to conquer their deserted Habitation: for on a set-time they set fire to all the Villages, and spoyl’d all things which they could not carry away with them, that not the least hopes of returning might be left them; therefore they must either Conquer or Die: which resolv’d upon, they fell unawares on the Apalachites, whose King had nevertheless so much time, that he Guarded the usual Paths which directed to the inhabited Villages: But the Apalachites leaving the common Roads, climb’d over almost inaccessible Mountains, and so got into the heart of the Countrey, which exceedingly amaz’d Paracousis (for so that King was call’d) who lay Encamp’d at the Foot of a Mountain, whether the Van of the Apalachites were marching: whereupon he sending his Army to meet them, they began a most fierce Combat; when at last both Parties wanting Arrows, they fell upon one another with Clubs till the Night parted them; and neither could boast of the Victory. At last this War was turn’d into Peace, and the Articles of Agreement were these, viz.
That the Cofachites should for ever possess the Province Amana, and become one People with the Apalachites, and acknowledge the King of Apalache for their Chief Governor.
[Sidenote: They fall off.]
[Sidenote: Are brought to worship the Sun.]
After which the Cofachites were call’d Caribbeeans, which signifies Accidental Subjects: But these two sorts of People did not long agree; for the Caribbeeans sleighted the Customs of the Apalachites in the Countrey Bemarin, and at the same time threw off their Obedience to the King, chose one Ragazin for their Governor, subdu’d the neighboring Province Matika, and at last defi’d the Apalachites; who inferior to them in Strength, and making use of subtilty, suppos’d it the best way to make a Difference amongst the Caribbeeans themselves; to which the Priests freely proffer’d their Assistance, and their Design prov’d also successful; for the Caribbeeans regarding no Religion (onely dreading the angry Deity Mabouya) the Apalachite Priests call’d Jaova’s, took great pains to perswade their Neighbors to the worshipping of the Sun; which so prevail’d, that a considerable number of them ascending the Mountain Olaimi, fell down and shew’d Reverence to that celestial Luminary; which Opportunity Paracousis taking notice of, caus’d the Jaova’s to publish amongst the Caribbeeans, That in the beginning of the Maairims, or March, a great Feast should be held in Reverence to the Sun on the usual place, where the King would Entertain, and give Presents to all the Worshippers thereof.
[Sidenote: The Sun generally worshipp’d by the antient Heathens.]
How great a Religion this Sun-worship was antiently amongst the Gentiles, appears from the Writings of several authentick Authors.
The Syrians, whose Idolatry the Israelites learn’d, honor the Sun by the Name of Babal, which signifies Lord.
The Phenicians call’d the Sun Beel-samen, Lord of the Heavens; and the Citizens of Accaron, Baal-zebahim, Lord of the Offerings; but God chang’d the Name to Baal-zebub, or The God of Flyes.
Moloch, or Milcom also signifi’d the Sun amongst the Ammonites; in honor of which Children were carried by their Parents, and set between two great Fires, or else by the Priests, upon pretence of cleansing them; and sometimes parch’d to death in an Image of Moloch, which had seven Cavities heated like Ovens.
Macrobius tells us, That the Assyrians ascrib’d the supream Command to the Sun, under the Name of Adad, and to the Goddess Adargatis, representing the Image of Adad with Beams darting downwards, and Adargatis with those that shot upwards: by the first they express’d, that the celestial Power consisted in Sun-beams, which shooting downwards warm the Earth; and by the second, that all things by those Beams were cherish’d and enliven’d.
The most magnificent Temple which Syria Apamena boasted, was Consecrated to the Sun.
The Arabians Offer’d Myrrhe on the tops of their Houses at the Rising of the Sun; who also was the Chamos and Baal-Peor of the Moabites and Medians.
Near the Red-Sea, lay the City Baisamsa, which signifies The House of the Sun, famous for the many Feasts which were kept there in honor of this Planet.
The Persians accounted this Luminary for the greatest God, and Consecrated to him three several Feasts, looking upon him as the Author of Wisdom, Goodness, and Power, and is express’d by three several Operations, viz. Warmth, Light, and Distinction of Time.
The Egyptians honor’d the Name of Osiris, whom some will have to be the same with Misraim, or Chamszoon, the first Founder of the Egyptian Monarchy.
In Egypt also was famous amongst many other Cities that of Heliopolis, which signifi’d The City of the Sun; where the Ox Mnevis or Menapis being Consecrated to the Sun, was religiously worshipp’d. This Image is describ’d by Macrobius.
The Moors made likewise great Offerings to their Assabin, for so they call’d the Sun; and allow’d their Priests onely the priviledge to gather Cinamon, and that with this Proviso, That they should first Offer forty four Oxen, besides Goats and Rams, to Assabin, nor should fetch the least Stick of Cinamon either immediately before or after Sun-set: The Cinamon brought altogether, was to be divided by the Chief Priest, and the rest having each their Portion assign’d, that which remain’d was sold to the Merchants, to Trade with into Foreign Parts; but if the Sun chanc’d to set the Cinamon on fire, then they concluded they had not dealt justly.
The Greeks, according to Proclus, hung a long Pole full of Laurel and Flowers on every seventh day of the Moneth; on the top thereof was a great Copper Ball, from which hung others still lesser and lesser; about the middle of the Pole hung three hundred and sixty five Garlands; and the bottom thereof was cover’d with a Womans Garment of a yellow colour: The uppermost Ball represented the Sun, the lesser the Stars, and the Garlands the Days of the Year; in which manner they worshipp’d the Sun.
[Sidenote: Why Divine Worship so generally given to the Sun.]
The same Luminary the Massagetes and old Germans ador’d in antient times; and to this day the People in the utmost North, Japanners, Chineses, Tartars, and the East and West-Indians, pay their chief Devotions to the Sun; the reason of which may easily be made out: for it is the common Opinion of all Men, as Aristotle, Simplicius, Themistius, and other Heathens witness, to place the Omnipotent Godhead in the uppermost Orb, which surrounds the Earth; wherefore those that Pray, lift up their Hands to Heaven: but because the rest of the Heavens appear not so resplendent as the Sun, therefore they take the Sun for the onely chief God, whether for its exceeding lustre and glory, or for its being a hundred and sixty times bigger than the Earth; or for its swift Course, in running ten hundred thousand Leagues in so short a time, or for its nourishing and genial Warmth, which gives Life to all things, or for its necessary Light, by which all worldly Affairs are manag’d, or for its measuring the Days by its moving from East to West, and the Seasons of the Year, by a Course from the South to the North; for all these excellent qualities being well consider’d by the most Learned Heathens, or observ’d by those of lesser Judgment, have made them shew that Honor to a visible Creature, which is onely due to the invisible Creator.
These and such like Arguments induc’d the Caribbeeans to go to Bemarin, where the Feast of the Sun was to be kept.
[Sidenote: The Apalachites and Caribbeans make an Offering to the Sun on the Mountain Olaimi.]
[Sidenote: Part of the Caribbeans revolt from the Apalachites.]
[Sidenote: They people the Caribees and grow powerful.]
The Apalachite King also Entertain’d the neighboring People exceeding courteously in the chief City Melilot; from whence he was carried in a Chair on the Shoulders of four Men, with sound of Pipes and Drums, and an innumerable company of People, to the top of the Mountain Olaimi, where he made a stately Offering to the Sun, and afterwards Feasting and Caressing the Caribbeeans with Gifts, he sent them home all well contented and satisfi’d with their Entertainment. This Custom was yearly observ’d, when at last they began to neglect their Duty, wherefore Toltlabin resolv’d to proclaim War against the Caribbeeans, if they did not continue paying their Devotions to the Sun: which Injunction was differently receiv’d; some judg’d it to be inconsistent with their purchas’d Freedom, to receive Laws for Religion from a neighboring King, alledging, That if any Reverence was due to the Sun, it might as well be given on the Mountains of Amana as within Toltlabin’s Realm: others, who lov’d Peace, and had a zeal to the Olaimi Religion, would not be against the Proposals, which occasion’d a Contention amongst themselves, and every one apply’d himself to those that were of his Opinion; nevertheless those that stood upon their Freedom, were of the greatest Party; wherefore the Worshippers of the Sun clos’d with the Apalachites, who going out with their Forces, routed the other Party, and receiv’d those Caribbeeans that joyn’d with them in Religion into Co-partnership also in the Government, so that they united into one People: But those that were routed rally’d again, and not without thousands of Inconveniences made towards the Sea, where Embarquing, they Landed first on the Isle Ajay, now call’d Sancta Crux, and in process of time grew very populous; for from thence by degrees have been peopled all the little Isles which lie before America, and grew so considerable, that they were sought to by the Calabites, to side with them against the Arovaces, Yaos, Sappayos, and other People their Enemies on the Main Continent, where they have taken many large Countreys, extending as far as Brasile, where they are greatly respected and fear’d for their Valor and Policy in warlike Affairs.
But because the memory of antique Passages hath no firm foundation in Books, having been onely taken by Tradition from time to time amongst the Caribbeeans, therefore we cannot give you an exact Account of their Removal from Florida; yet it remains without contradiction, that it hapned above five Ages before the Spaniards Arrival, which time at least was requir’d to the peopling of so many great Islands and Kingdoms.
[Sidenote: Original of the Apalachites.]
Concerning the Original of the Apalachites, they themselves affirm, that they cannot certainly determine the time when they first Setled here: however, they report that they have peopled the Provinces Bemarin, Amana, and Matika, many Ages ago. That they are Extracted from the Tartars, appears not obscurely, by their Customs, Idolatry, and Language. Amongst other things, they have learn’d from the Tartars religiously to remember those Kings which perform’d any grand Exploits in the Service of their Countrey. Amongst others, the Apalachites make mention in their Areitos, or Songs, of a King call’d Maydo, eminent for his noble Atchievements, and prudent Governing of his People.
[Sidenote: Their opinions in Religion.]
They believe that the Sun many Ages since was Darken’d or Ecclips’d twenty four Hours together, during which time the Waters over-flow’d the highest Mountains, except that of Olaimi, where there stood a stately Temple, built in honor of the Sun; in which all those that fled thither were preserv’d, and dispers’d afterwards into several parts to re-people the World as soon as the Waters were abated, and the Sun appear’d in his full lustre again: whereupon they imagine, that to this day their Bird Tonatzuli, at the Rising of the Sun congratulates his appearance with great joy, and at his Setting, requests his speedy return from under the Horizon.
[Sidenote: The Bird Tonatzuli.]
The Tonatzuli is a Bird like a Bull-Finch, onely its Belly and Wings are of a Golden colour, the Back and Tail blue, its Head adorn’d with divers colour’d Feathers, its Claws and Bill like Ivory, and it Sings like a Nightingale.
[Sidenote: Description of the Mountain Olaimi.]
As for Olaimi, it is a perfect round Mountain; the Way which leads to the top thereof runs winding two Leagues long, and is planted on each side with Cedar, Pine-Trees, Cassine, and Sassafrass, the top of which is a fair Plain a League in circumference; Eastward from it is a Cavern, to which Nature hath afforded more Convenience and Ornament than could be given to the same by Art and Charges: The first Beams of the Rising Sun dart into the Cavern, which being oval, appears like a white Vault, which on the top hath a great Hole for the Air to go in at: The bottom is like the purest Marble; on the Floor stands a Stone Cistern to receive the Moisture which drops out of the Rocks. Whilest the People Danc’d on the fore-mention’d Plain, Feasted and Sung, the Priests Offer’d Myrrhe, and all manner of Perfumes.
The Clothes which the Rich gave to the Sun, were distributed amongst the Poor, according to a List which was taken of them.
[Sidenote: The occasion of the Apalachites embracing Christianity.]
But in process of time the Apalachites have most of them embrac’d the Christian Religion; the first occasion thereof was this: When John Ribauld had brought a French Colony to Florida, and gain’d a Fort, (which from King Charles the Ninth he nam’d Charles-Fort) the Spanish Commander Peter Melendez fell unawares upon him, and so far impower’d his Men, who had of themselves a natural hatred against the French, that they spar’d neither Man, Woman, nor Child; onely ten Men escaping the bloody Banquet, fled to the Floridan King Zaturiona, where they were kindly receiv’d, and hearing of the Civility and Power of the King of Apalache desir’d that they might go thither; which Zaturiona not onely granted, but also furnish’d the seven French-men (for the other three were dead) with good Guides, who visited Zaturiona’s Relations, living in several Villages along the pleasant Stream Selay, over which they pass’d on large Boughs artificially joyn’d together, and travell’d through Woods, Marshes, and Mountains full of ravenous Beasts, and sometimes Engag’d with the stragling Floridans which lurk’d in the most desolate Wildernesses: having travell’d two days Journey, by an Ambuscade of King Timago’s People, they lost two of their Guides, the rest being dangerously wounded, and through many Difficulties came at last to Avoeka, and from thence to the King of Apalache’s Court, who receiv’d them all with great kindness: Whereupon they resolv’d, being induc’d thereto by their courteous Reception, fruitfulness of the Soil, and good Customs of the Inhabitants, to Settle themselves, all but two of them, who return’d with the Guides to Zaturiona: the rest that stay’d there, endeavor’d by promulgating the Christian Religion, to reduce the Pagans to the belief thereof; which many embrac’d, and also learn’d the French Tongue, notwithstanding their Priests Jaova’s oppos’d the same. After the death of the French (which the Apalachites much bemoan’d) their Idolatry had like to have gotten the upper hand again, had not some English Families, fleeing from Virginia from the Cruelties of the Indians, and not able to reach New England, Landed at Florida, with intention at first onely to get fresh Provisions, but Rowing up the River Selay, and taken with the pleasantness, they chose the Province Bemarin for their Habitation, where accordingly they Setled Anno 1621. Amongst them were several Learned Men, which so effectually perswaded the Heathens to embrace the Christian Faith, that in twenty eight years time the King and most of his Nobles were Converted and Baptiz’d by them in the chief City Melilot.
But since our Design is onely to give you an exact Account of those People which inhabit the Islands lying before America, it is sufficient that we have shew’d you how they are Extracted from the Cosachites and the Apalachites.
As to the Customs of the Caribbeeans, since they are very much alter’d by their long Conversation with the Europeans, we cannot better inform our selves of their antient Customs, than from those which to this day are observ’d on St. Vincent, and some parts of the Main Continent, where the Caribbeeans have learn’d nothing from any Strangers.
[Sidenote: Description of the Caribbeeans.]
The Caribbeeans are a well proportion’d People with broad Shoulders and Hips, round Faces, without Beards, wide Mouthes, white Teeth, little Eyes like the Tartars, Feet so hard, that they are almost Dart-proof, flat Noses, so made by squeezing them down in their Infancy, and long black Hair. There are few or no deformed People amongst them; all of them go stark naked, and paint their Bodies Red with a Plant call’d Rocou, and Oyl; about their Eyes they draw a black Circle with the Juice of the Apple Junipa. This their Painting serves them both as an Ornament, and to make them strong. Others anoint their Bodies all over with a glewy Stuff, on which they stick all sorts of Feathers. Others use Gum and Flowers. Moreover, they adorn their Head with Plumes, their Ears with Fish-bones, or Scales of the Caret, or pieces of Crystal, which they also hang in their Lips and Noses. The Men wear Armlets near their Shoulders, and the Women about their Wrists; about their Legs they tie for Garters Strings of Seeds: others take a pride in wearing the Bones of their slain Enemies, and the Teeth of the Agouty, Tygers, wild Cats, or Cockle shells. When they appear in greatest lustre, then they wear Armlets under their Arm-pits, and also Scarfs of Feathers, which either hang over their Shoulders, or are girt about their Middle, so that one end thereof touches their Thighs. They set an exceeding value on certain pieces of Copper call’d Caracolis, the least of which they hang in their Ears, and the biggest before their Breasts: and because they are fetch’d out of the Province of the Arovages their Enemies, they are esteem’d as Marks of true Valor, and he is highly esteem’d that wears them.
[Sidenote: Their Language.]
The Caribbeeans which Converse with the Europeans, speak two sorts of Languages, the oldest of which is smooth, acceptable, fluent, and for the most part spoke between the Lips. According to the several pronunciations one word hath divers significations: but the Mystery of their oldest Language they will discover to none. It is very observable, that the Caribbeean Men speak several words, which though the Women understand, yet are never spoken by them: and also the antient People use several Sayings which the younger never mention, and the Youths such likewise as are never spoken by the Antient, which being spoken apart by each in the time of War, are understood by none but their Soldiers, that so their Designs may the better be kept secret. But their mix’d Language hath many of the European words, especially of the Spanish, which they speak whensoe’re they converse with the Europeans. Moreover, though the Caribbeeans on the least occasion laugh aloud, yet they are of a dull Spirit, stubborn, and nothing to be got out of them but by fair means.
[Sidenote: Their Manners.]
Their Employment is Hunting, Fishing, Tilling, Building of Houses, and the like. Theft is not known amongst them, so that no Man is suspicious of his Neighbor; wherefore they leave their Huts open both Night and Day. They are also seldom at Variance one with another, but generally Love sways amongst them; yet if a Quarrel doth happen, then the injur’d Person revenges himself to the heighth. Persons that profess Chastity are much honor’d amongst them; and here Youth bears great respect to Age.
[Sidenote: Their Ignorance.]
They are also very ignorant in natural Knowledge, insomuch that when the Moon is Eclips’d, they suppose that it is devour’d by Maboya; and wheresoe’re they smell any ill scent, they believe the Devil to be not far from thence. Gunpowder they suppose to be a Grain, and are very fearful of Fire-Arms: Though they have many brave Salt-pits, yet they use no Salt, nor eat any Swines-flesh, though all those Islands abound in that sort of Animal, fearing that if they should eat the same, it would cause them to have little Eyes, which they account very homely, though it is a property generally incident to them; neither will they eat any Tortoise, because they would not be so gross as that Creature. Lastly, they know now no greater Number than they reckon on their Fingers and Toes, for what exceeds twenty is to them innumerable: They hold that good Spirits, whom they call Akamoue, residing in Heaven, never trouble themselves with Earthly Affairs.
Their Offerings consist in Cassave and the first of their Fruits, which are set at the end of their Huts in Vessels on small Tables, cover’d with Leaves or Rushes, without uttering any Prayers; for they never Pray but in publick in company of the Boyez or Priests, and that either for revenge against Injuries, or for recovery from Sickness, or that they may know the Events of War, or for Protection against the Maboya.
Each Boye hath his peculiar God, which, Singing with a conjuring Verse, he calls to him in the Night whilst he Smoaks a Pipe of Tobacco.
[Sidenote: Their Fear of the Maboya.]
Some have been of Opinion, that this Conceit of the Maboya proceeds from the phlegmatick Nature of the Caribbeeans, who in their melancholy Dreams imagine themselves to be grievously beaten by the said Maboya. But there are sufficient testimonies to prove, that these Heathens have often really suffer’d much by this Maboya, often appearing to them in such horrid shapes, that the poor Caribbeeans would sweat and quake at the sight thereof, and inflicting such sad Pinches and bloody Stripes all over their Bodies, that they liv’d in perpetual fear of this evil Spirit: and yet notwithstanding these cruel Sufferings, they shew’d no manner of Worship to Maboya, onely they believ’d that they had some ease, when they wore little Pictures about their Necks, made resembling the Shapes in which Maboya appear’d to them; but their best Remedy was to flye to the Christians.
[Sidenote: Their Consultations about the Death of any Relation.]
They believe their Boyez able to resolve any Question they ask of them; particularly, when any one dies, the nearest ally’d to him asks the Boye this Question, Who is the occasion of his Death? to which if the Boye names any one, they never rest till they have dispatch’d him to the other World. Concerning their original brutish way of living, they give much credit to an ancient Fable, which is to this effect:
[Sidenote: Fabulous Tradition.]
The most antient Caribbeeans, living under no other Roof than the Canopy of Heaven, fed on nothing but what the Fields naturally produc’d, which salvage Life an old Man much beamoan’d; when a certain Deity clad in white Apparel descending down on the Earth, said, That he would have come sooner to have shew’n them the way of a civil Life, had they requested it before. Moreover, the Angel shew’d them a place along the Shore where there lay sharp-cutting Stones, with which he told them they might cut down Trees, and with the Timber build themselves Houses, and cover them with the Leaves of the Palm-Tree to keep out the Rain; which said, he broke his Staff into three pieces, which being Planted, soon after produc’d the Root Manioe, which stamp’d and dry’d, made good Bread.
[Sidenote: Their Opinion concerning the Soul.]
The Caribbeeans have also a strange Opinion concerning the Soul, that is to say, That every one hath as many Souls as he hath Pulses, but the chiefest is the Heart it self, which after Death removes with Jeheizi, (that is every ones peculiar God or Genius) to the Company of the other Deities, where they live after the same manner as here on Earth; wherefore those that are Persons of Quality give Charge at their Deaths, that their Servants may be kill’d and buried with them, that so they may serve them in the other World; That the other Souls, which are the Pulses, are of two sorts, whereof the first call’d Maboya’s, range through Woods and Wildernesses; and the other call’d The Oumekous, reside along the Sea, and over-turn the Ships that Sail by; That the Souls of Heroes remove to pleasant and delightful Islands, where they are serv’d by the Arovages; That Cowards at their Death go behind a high Mountain, where they become perpetual Slaves to the Arovages.
So soon as they hear a clap of Thunder they run into their Huts, and place themselves on little Stools round the Fire, cover their Faces, and laying their Heads on their Knees, make a doleful noise, as supposing that Maboya is exceedingly enrag’d against them.
[Sidenote: Their manner of Dwelling.]
Their Huts, for the most part built near Rivers and Streams, are of an oval fashion, their Roofs made of Palm-Tree Leaves or Sugar-Canes, the Walls nothing but Boughs set in the Ground and pleited together, and the Floor of sifted Earth or Sand, rammed in and kept very even and smooth; besides a Room wherein they Sleep and Entertain their Friends, they have also a Kitchin to dress their Meat, and a place to lay their Bowes, Arrows, Clubs, and the like, in; they use Mats in stead of Walls, to separate one Apartment from the other. Their Houshold-stuff is little; the richest of them have Hammocks in stead of Beds; the meaner sort use Sticks laid cross one another, and cover’d thick with the Leaves of the Banana-Tree, made fast at the four corners with Cords. Hollow Calabashes, and Earthen Ware call’d Canaris, serve them for their Kitchin Utensils. In the little Canaris they prepare their Tumalis, or Pepper-pottage, and in the biggest their Liquor Ovicou.
Their Cleanliness may appear by this, that when they go to ease Nature, they make a Hole in the Ground with a Stick, and after they have done, stop it up again, burying their Excrement that it may not be seen.
Round about their Huts feed many Hens and Turkies, which they breed not so much for their own use, as to exchange for Iron.
They remove their Habitations very often, either out of fear of being haunted by the Ghost of some deceased Person, or to avoid some Smell which they find noisom and offensive, or because their Hut hath been set on fire by Lightning.
[Sidenote: Their Houshold Affairs and Diet.]
The Women are always employ’d to keep their Families in good order, to prepare Venison and Fish for the Mens Tables, to spin Cotton, Comb their Husbands, and paint them Red. The Men spend their time in the Wars, Hunting or Fishing. They have also learn’d of the Europeans to burn Train-Oyl in Lamps in the Night, when as before they burnt Twigs of a gummy Shrub before mention’d, which for that reason the Hollanders call’d Candle-Wood. Each hath a little Stool, and a Table call’d Mantoutou, on which he eats his Meat when he pleases, having no set-Meals. The broad Banana-Leaves serve them for Napkins and Table-clothes. Their chiefest Dainty is Crabs roasted in the Shell with the Juice of Lemmon and Pyman. At great Feasts they dress their Meat with the Fat of their Enemies, being the Arovages. Their usual Drink is Mabby, made of Potato’s, which refreshes, and is good against the Phlegm; also another Liquor call’d Oko made of steep’d Cassadar, and is like Beer in taste, strength, and colour. They also by making an incision into the Palm-Trees, tap a Liquor from the same in Calabashes, like White-wine. They use little of the Drink Couscou, because it swells the Body, notwithstanding it is pleasing to the Palate; But the Liquor which is most esteem’d amongst them, is the Wine made of the Sugar-Canes, which are squeez’d in Mills made for that purpose, and then boyl’d in great Kettles. During the dressing of their Meat (which being done leisurely, is sometimes half a day before it is ready), they Sing, and Dance to the Time, which one keeps with a Calabash fill’d full of little Stones, in which they believe the greatest happiness they shall enjoy in the other World consists: But the Caribbeeans never Dance more antique than when they meet in the Carbet, which is a publick House of Entertainment; whether the Women carry a Drink made of Cassave, which makes Drunk as soon as Wine: The Men bring Fish and Hedge-hogs; all of them painted with Roucou, and adorn’d with Plumes of Feathers, commit all manner of Debaucheries. At other times they also keep Feast-days, which is either when they are preferr’d to some Office, or Place of Honor, or when they have defeated their Enemies, or when they mourn for the Death of one of their nearest Relations.
[Sidenote: Their Beasts.]
Their Boats, which they call Periaquo’s, are made of single hollow Trees, full of Benches, and painted with several strange Shapes, and are able each to carry fifty or sixty Men.
[Sidenote: Their Musical Instruments.]
Their Musical Instruments in which they take most delight, are Drums, Strings of Silk-grass stretcht upon Calabashes, and Flutes made of the Bones of their Enemies.
[Sidenote: Their watchfulness against Enemies.]
[Sidenote: Their Entertainment of Friends.]
They keep Watches on high Hills, to descry the Ships off at Sea, and no sooner have they espy’d one, but they immediately give notice to one another; whereupon those that are most valiant put off to Sea in their Canoos and know by the Languages to distinguish between a Spaniard, French-man, English-man and Hollander. If they find that ’tis an Enemy who Lands on their Coasts, they guard all their Avenues, lie in Ambuscades, and gather together in by-ways, and where they see any advantage they shoot thousands of Arrows; which done, they fall in amongst them with great Clubs: but if they chance to be defeated, then they lurk behind Bramble-bushes, or climb up inaccessible Mountains, or else, if near the Sea, they save themselves by Diving and Swimming under Water above two hundred Paces before they appear again; and if a Party of them chance to meet together afterwards, they venture a second Engagement; But if those that come on their Coasts are Friends, they Swim, or go in their Boats to meet them, climb up their Ships, and carry the Sea-men on their Shoulders ashore, where the Casique in the Name of the whole Island bids them welcome, and conducts them to the Carbet, where an antient Man salutes the old Men, and a Youth the young Men; after which asking their Names, the Couban calls himself by that Name ever after; and desires the Strangers to accept of his Name; during which their changing of Names they use many Ceremonies of Friendship: this done, they proffer them Cotton Hammocks to rest themselves in, and pleasant Fruit to eat, till they have prepar’d other Meat; which is no sooner Ready, but a little Table is set before every one of them, and a Dish of Meat consisting of boyl’d Hedge-hogs, boyl’d Crabs, and Pot-herbs; which if the Guests do not eat heartily, or drink up all the Liquor which they give them, they take it as a great Affront; but if they eat and drink heartily, they take it kindly, and shew great sorrow at their departure.
Their Offices of Government have been usually three; the meanest belong’d to the Tiouboulihauthe, whose Place was to Govern over the Carbet, a House where Strangers were Entertain’d, Matters of War disputed of, and publick Feasts kept. Tiouboutonti Commanded the Canoos in the time of War, that is, under the Nahalene, who Commanded the whole Fleet: But the chiefest Officer of all was the Ouboutou; to which degree of Honor none attain’d, unless he had kill’d several Arovages, or at least a Governor.
When the Caribbeeans drew all their Forces out of the Islands to a Battel, then they chose one out of the Ouboutou, who during their March Commanded the Army as General, which his Office ended with the War, and extended no farther than his own Island.
[Sidenote: Their warlike Consultations.]
Their warlike Consultations were no less observable for the Ouboutou appointed a Day, on which the Islanders met at a Feast in the Carbet, whither they accordingly came all at the time appointed, and having Eat and Drunk, and Danc’d a considerable time, an ancient Woman with tears in her Eyes, and mournful Countenance enter’d the Carbet, and desir’d Audience; which being granted her, and every one silent, she began to relate the Damages which from antient times the Arovages did to the Caribbeeans; and that in the last Engagement so many valiant Men were slain, and afterwards devour’d by them; therefore it would be a shame not to take Revenge, which being seconded by the Ouboutu, put Valor into the Hearts of all that were present: Whereupon the following day Messengers were sent to the other Islands to acquaint them with their Intentions, that they might prepare their Clubs, make sharp and poyson their Arrows, String their Bowes, prepare Provisions, and fit out their Canoos: They poyson’d their Arrows with the Juice of Manchenillo’s, which made the least Wound mortal. Their Provisions and Arms they laid up in their Canoos, so to preserve their Periaguo’s (which are Boats that can carry fifty Men), if they should chance to over-set, which often happen’d, though they were soon turn’d up again. They went from one Island to another, where they not onely stor’d themselves with fresh Provisions, but increas’d their Fleet with new Assistants; with which approaching the Main, they hal’d their Boats ashore in the Evening, and driving four Stakes into the Ground under the Trees, made fast their Hammocks to the same, in which they slept till Mid-night, and then fell on their Enemies, but if discover’d by them, they retreated to their Boats and return’d home; but if they were not discover’d, they fell upon the Huts of the Arovages; who resisting, they shot Arrows with burning Cotton into them, and so setting them on fire, forc’d the Arovages to venture a Battel in the open Field; where having spent all their Arrows, they Engag’d one another with great Clubs, with which at one Blow they broke either Arms or Legs, or knock’d out their Brains. If the Caribbeeans chanc’d to be defeated, then those that remain’d of their Party made a lamentable noise, howling for those that were kill’d, and mix’d their Tears with the Blood of their slain Friends, whom not without the greatest danger they fetch’d from amongst their Enemies, and carried them aboard their Boats: But returning Victors, the were wont to insult over their Prisoners with all the bitter Taunts imaginable, and then taking advantage of those sharp Upbraidings which their cruel usage extorted from them, to put them to death with most inhumane Tortures, and then to Feast themselves upon their mangled Bodies, all claiming a Right to their several Prisoners, as to so many Beasts appointed to the Slaughter; But of late Ages they have contented themselves to dispatch them speedily with their Clubs, and so assign them to their Shambles.
[Sidenote: Their Enmity to the Spaniard.]
As the Arovages had been formerly, so the Spaniards at length became the Object of the Caribbeeans irreconcileable Hatred, insomuch that oft-times being Invaded by them, they gave them such rough Entertainment, that they were glad to save themselves by flight; for the Caribbeeans not regarding their Guns, press’d upon them, and many times took Vessels richly laden from them, till of late years that a Peace hath been concluded between them; wherein nevertheless those of the Caribbeeans refuse to be concern’d, that inhabit St. Dominico and St. Vincent, who cannot to this day forget the cruel Outrages committed by the Spaniards.
[Sidenote: Their Marriages.]
To come to their Marriages, they were allow’d as many Wives as they pleas’d to have, insomuch that their Governors were in esteem according to the number of their Wives; nor were degrees of Consanguinity so regarded, but that an Uncle might take his Neece; whom he no sooner had carried to his House, but the Marriage was finish’d. They seldom Divorc’d their Wives after they had bore them Children, but otherwise the Man would break the Bond of Matrimony when he pleas’d. A young Man that had no Relation might court a Stranger, and if her Parents allow’d of it, the Match was made. One that had behav’d himself valiantly against the Arovages was sure of several good Matches, for he was refus’d by none whom he Courted; and the abundance of Wives was the greatest testimony of their Valor. Each Wife had a peculiar Dwelling, so to prevent all Dissentions: So soon as one of them was with Child, her Husband Lay not with her till after Delivery. If any Woman committed Adultery, her Husband was permitted to knock out her Brains, or rip open her Belly; which done, he acquainted her Father with the Deed, who return’d him thanks for the same. Murderers were either burnt or cut in pieces. Children were born here with little trouble, for the Women were no sooner Deliver’d, but they carried the Infant to wash at the next Brook; which done they return’d home to their Houshold Labor, whilest the Man on the contrary kept his Bed, and ate nothing but a piece of Cassava Bread, which he hollow’d out in the middle, and left the edges till the Feast, which was kept at the Naming of the Child: Moreover, he fed on all manner of Dainties for a whole year after. But this Custom was observ’d onely at the Birth of the first Son, at which time they scratch’d the Father’s Shoulder with a sharp Curry-combe, at which if he flinch’d not, it was accounted a good Omen of the Childs future Valor. At fifteen days old they made Holes in the Childs Ears, Lips, and Nostrils, through which they put a String for the tying on of what-ever Ornamentals. With the like Ceremonies the Child receiv’d a Name, taken from his Predecessors, Trees, Fishes, or some remarkable Passages during the Mothers bearing of the Infant in her Womb, or of the Father’s Lying-in: But this Name was chang’d so soon as they went to War, or kill’d a Commander of the Arovages, whose Name they exchang’d for their own: After which the Mothers took special care in bringing them up, and at six Moneths the Children were able to run alone: When they attain’d to the age of two years, they cut off their Hair, at a great Feast made for that purpose; from which time forward they exercis’d them in Shooting with Bowes and Arrows; to which purpose they hung up pieces of Meat for them to shoot at, which they must either hit down, or Fast.
[Sidenote: Initiation of Soldiers.]
Their Ceremonies to make Soldiers were very strange, viz. The Father conducted his Son to the Carbet, where he told him the Duties of a Soldier, beat him with a Bird of prey, call’d Mans-fenis, till he had bruis’d the Head of the Bird, and scratch’d his whole Body all over with a Curry-combe till the Blood came, and then put Lemmon Juice into the Wounds, afterwards put him in a Hammock, and hung him up for several days without giving him any Meat; all which Torments and Trials if he endur’d with patience, then he was accounted a good and approved Soldier.
[Sidenote: Of their Priests.]
Few bred up their Children to be Boyez or Priests; yet those that were brought up to it, abstain’d from certain Food from their Infancy, and before they could be receiv’d into the Order of Priesthood, they were forc’d to draw Blood from every part of their Bodies.
[Sidenote: Great age of the Caribbeeans.]
The Caribbeeans attain to an exceeding great Age: Charles de Rotchfort witnesseth, That in his time there liv’d Men who remembred the first Arrival of the Spaniards under the Command of Christopher Columbus, which consider’d, they could not be less than each of them a hundred and sixty years old. Many Women also were found there, who bare Children after they were eighty years of age: yet nevertheless they are not free from Sicknesses and Distempers, which cannot justly be attributed to the Climate, that being extraordinary healthful, but to their ill Diet. Besides the troublesom Disease call’d Pyans, which makes their Bodies swell full of great Knobs, they have been much troubled with pestilential Sores, occasion’d by the eating of Crabs, and poysonous Tortoises, Lamantins, and Hedg-hogs. Against which Evils they wanted not Medicines, consisting of Herbs, Roots, Gums, and Oyl. The bitter Bark of the Chipiou-Tree, steep’d in Water, and mix’d with Lanbys, hath a soveraign operation. The like vertue is in the Juyce of the Myby-Tree, which they us’d to take inwardly: and for outward Means, they us’d a Salve made of burnt Cane-ashes, temper’d with a Water press’d out of a certain Tree. To draw the Matter out of the Sores, they us’d the Juice of Junipa. Letting Blood was never customary amongst them, but to cut and scratch the sore part was to them in stead of Phlebotomy. But if all the fore-mention’d Medicines would not help them, they fled for aid to the Boyez, who immediately order’d the Hut wherein the Patient lay to be made clean, the Table call’d Matoutou to be over-spread with Cassave, Ouycou, and Garden Fruits, for an Offering to the evil Spirit Maboya, and as many Stools to be plac’d about the same as there were People to be present at the Ceremony; and after that all the Fire and Candles were put out, the Boye enter’d into the Hut about Midnight with a Lighted Roll of Tobacco, then muttering some words to himself, stamp’d with his left Foot, and blew the Smoak of the Tobacco up into the Air, which done, and tearing the Tobacco in pieces, he threw the same over the Hut, and call’d up his Spirit, who shaking the Roof of the House, made a terrible noise; then the Boye drew near to the Patient, suck’d his Sores, and anointed them with the Juice of Junipa; after which if the sick Person recover’d, he made a great Feast, and an Offering to the aforesaid Spirit: But if the Distemper were mortal, then the Boye inform’d the Patient’s Relations, That his Spirit had compassion upon the Sick, and was resolv’d to carry him above the Stars, to accompany the other Gods which reside there.
Thus much in general of the Inhabitants of the Isles that lie before Northern America; it will next be requisite to give you an Account of them in particular.
[Sidenote: The number of the Caribbee Islands.]
[Sidenote: Their several Names.]
There are generally reckon’d of these Islands twenty eight by Name, though there are many more in number; for besides that there are a multitude of small obscure Islands that are not nam’d, there are of the more considerable sometimes two or three that go under one Name; the twenty eight are these following: Anegada, Sombrero, Las Virgines, Anguilla, Saba, St. Crux, St. Martin, St. Bartholomew, Barbouthos or Barboude, Rotonda, Nevis, Eustathius, Antego, Montserrat, Guadalupe, Deseado, Marigalanta, Todos Sanctos, De Aves, Dominico, Martinego, St. Lucia, Barbados, St. Vincent, Bekia, Granada, Tabago, St. Christopher.
SECT. II. Anegada and Sombrero.
[Sidenote: Situation of Anegada and Sombreros.]
[Sidenote: The Mansfeny.]
[Sidenote: The Colibry.]
Towards the North-East of Porto Rico, at eighteen Degrees and thirteen Minutes, lies Anegada, seven Leagues long, surrounded with Shoals and Banks, as also the neighboring Sombrero, being in the same Latitude with the other, and so call’d by the Spaniard, because it appears like a Hat: Both of them being uninhabited, harbor abundance of Birds, amongst which is the Mansfeny, a little Eagle, and the remarkable Colibry, whose Body being a little bigger than a Wren, is adorn’d with divers colour’d Feathers, resembling a Rain-bowe; about its Neck is a Carbuncle red Circle; the Belly and ends of the Feathers are of a Golden colour, the Sides of an Emerauld green, the Bill and Legs black like polish’d Ebony, the Eyes glittering like Diamonds, on the Head a curious green tuft of Feathers: the Cocks far exceed the Hens in beauty; they flie swifter than any Bird whatsoever, and the fluttering of their Wings makes a noise like a Whirlwind: they live upon the Juice of Flowers, and especially of Cotton-Flowers; they smell like Amber, and build their Nests amongst the thick Leaves of a little Bough, where they cannot easily be found; the Nest it self open towards the South, is curiously made of the fine Fibres of the Plant Pite, surrounded with pieces of Bark, and within fill’d with Cotton, douny Feathers, and Silk; the Eggs oval, are somewhat bigger than an ordinary Pearl.
[Sidenote: Painted Crabs.]
In the Moneth of May that sort of Crabs call’d Painted Crabs (for some have Violet-colour’d Shells, others yellow, full of purple Specks, and others tawny, with red Streaks) come creeping down the Hills in good order, eat up all the Herbs and Plants, and go four times one after another into the Water to wash themselves, which done they return to the Woods; but the Females at a set-time betake themselves to the Sea, in which they Lay their Eggs, which afterwards being cast on the sandy Shore, and warm’d by the Beams of the Sun, produce young Crabs in a short time, which no sooner come out of the Shell, but creep towards the Woods, when grown somewhat bigger they climb up the Rocks, where the old ones keep in vast multitudes, and stop up the Entrance of their Holes in such a manner, that they cannot be found out, whilest they cast off their Shell, creeping out backward through an opening at the Tail scarce discernable; thus for a certain time they lie bare, and stript of their Shells, being onely cover’d with a thin Skin, which growing harder and harder, becomes at last a firm Shell like the former.
These Crabs are a wholsom Meat, unless they feed under the Mancheneel-Trees, which commonly are poysonous.
SECT. III. Las Virgines.
[Sidenote: Situation of Las Virgines.]
Near Sombrero, at eighteen Degrees, lie also the two Isles Las Virgines, surrounded by ten others (and flat Shelves), without Trees or fresh Water; but the Sea thereabouts abounds with Fish, and chiefly with the Perroket, which hath Scales like a Carp, but greenish; the Eyes surrounded with Silver Circles shine very bright; in stead of Teeth they have strong Jaw-bones, wherewith they Grind all manner of Shell-fish, which are their Prey. These Fish have an excellent Rellish, and weigh generally twenty Pound.
[Sidenote: The Fish Dorade.]
Here is likewise great plenty of the Dorade, which is a very large Fish, and about five Foot long, full of little Scales, with a prickly Back, two Fins at the parting of the Head, and as many under the Belly. This Fish swimming very swift, oftentimes follows the Ships that Sail that way.
SECT. IV. Anguilla.
[Sidenote: Situation of Anguilla.]
Southward at eighteen Degrees and twenty Minutes, on this side of the Line, appears Anguilla, inhabited by the English, containing ten Leagues in length; It makes a pleasant Prospect, because of the many Junipa-Trees which grow upon the same, whose Boughs bend towards the Ground; the Leaves are not unlike those of an Oak; the Flowers both in smell and shape come near the Narcissus; the Wood firm and grey, may be neatly Plan’d; the Tree bears fresh Leaves every Moneth, and a Fruit like Apples, which generally crack in their fall from the Tree, because of their thin Shell, as hath been already describ’d.
[Sidenote: Oculiem a sort of Vine]
The Oculiem, or Vine, makes the Shore also very pleasant; the Leaf round and thick, hath a mixture of Red and Green; the Bark incloseth a Violet-colour’d Wood; the Boughs whereof are loaded with Violet Grapes, which in stead of Kernels contain hard Stones.
SECT. V. Saba.
[Sidenote: Situation of Saba.]
Westward from Anguilla, at seventeen Degrees and thirty five Minutes, lies Saba, which shews at a great distance like a Rock. The Inhabitants of St. Eustathius going thither, found a pleasant Valley, able to maintain many Families.
The Sea about this Island is so clear, that a Stone may be seen lying on the bottom of it.
[Sidenote: The Fish Bonito.]
Amongst many other sorts of Fish, the Bonito is the most remarkable, which is thick and fleshy, two Foot long, with a dark green Back, and white Belly without Scales; It devours greedily all manner of Carrion.
SECT. VI. St. Crux.
[Sidenote: Situation and first Plantation of St. Crux.]
North of St. Christophers, in eighteen Degrees and some Minutes, lies St. Crux, which the Caribbeeans who were beaten by the Apalachites, first inhabiting, call’d Ayay, where Columbus found great opposition, for the Women themselves shot poysonous Arrows at the Spaniards; and before the Islanders submitted to them, they took many Spanish Ships, burnt their Villages, and flay’d many of the Spaniards alive. The Soil, though Hilly, is rich and fruitful.
The English Landing here Anno 1587. found a standing Pool, whose Water made swell the Faces of those who wash’d themselves with the same before Sun-rising, in such a manner, that they were not able to see for several days after; but they at last found a Fountain of wholsom Water.
[Sidenote: The several Changes of Dominion in this Island.]
Since the Spaniards destroy’d the Inhabitants of this Island, it lay desolate for a considerable time, notwithstanding it hath fourteen Leagues in length, and little less in breadth, till at last the English and Hollanders took possession of the same, each in a peculiar place; but not agreeing together, the English fell upon the Hollanders, and made themselves Masters of the Island in 1649. and not long after they were serv’d in the same kind; for the Spaniard judging them to be weakned by the Hollanders removing from the Island, set Sail thither from Porto Rico, burnt all the Houses, slew the Inhabitants, and brought St. Crux again under the Spanish Government. Mean while the Lord Poincy fitted out two Sail of French Ships, to drive the Spaniards from St. Crux, and succeeded in his Enterprize; for the Spaniards immediately fled to their Ships, left at liberty some Holland Prisoners whom they had taken, and the Island in possession of the French; who straightway sent Captain Auger thither as Governor, who design’d to build a Fort to secure the Harbor, but died before the same was finish’d. Poincy succeeding him, made an end of the Fort, and stor’d the Island with Ammunition and Provision. The Cross-Church built there by the Order, and at the Cost of a Company of Flushing in Holland, was deliver’d also to the French.
[Sidenote: Fruit-Trees.]
The Trees which grow here are of four beneficial kinds, serving for four several uses; some yield Fruits of a pleasant taste, and wholsom to eat; some excellent Medicines; others Timber for Building; and others Stuff to Dye with.
Granates, Oranges, Lemmons, and Citrons, grow better here than in any place of the World.
[Sidenote: The Papaye.]
But the Papaye-Tree is particularly worthy of our Description; It grows twenty Foot high, without Boughs, thick and streight, hollow and spungy within, bears three-corner’d Leaves hanging on long Stalks, hollow in the middle, and of a Fingers thickness; on the top round about the Body of the Tree, grow a sort of Fruit like Quinces.
This sort of Papaye-Tree grows on most of the Caribbee Islands; but the second sort call’d Mamoa, is to be found no where but on St. Crux; it hath more Leaves than the first, and a yellow Bark with green Streaks, within full of round and sharp biting Grains; the Blossoms thereof yield a sweet smell; every Moneth the Tree produces new Fruit, not unlike a Womans Breast (whence it hath its Denomination as before observ’d,) and rellishing incomparably well.
SECT. VII. St. Martin.
[Sidenote: Situation of St. Martin.]
Not far from St. Crux, at eighteen Degrees and sixteen Minutes, lies St. Martin, which hath seven Leagues in length and five in breadth, and is famous for many excellent Salt-Mines; to preserve which, the Spaniards built a City and Fort there.
[Sidenote: The Dutch Land there.]
Adrian Peter and Martyn Thyszoon, sent with eleven Sail of Ships from the Texel by the West-India Company, to Cruse for the Spanish Plate-Fleet before the Flemmish Isles, finding their labor lost, Steer’d to the Inlet of Todos los Sanctos; where finding no Enemies Ships, they Sail’d along the Coast of Pernambuck, and from thence (meeting with no Prize) to the Caribbee Islands; and Landing on Granada, receiv’d some damage from the Inhabitants: thence going to Blanca, they got above a thousand Goats, and ten thousand Lemmons from Hispaniola; near Cuba they were surpris’d with continual Thunder, Showers, and Storms, which forc’d them to stand to and again off the Island a considerable time, where they thought to wait for the Spanish Ships that came from Nombre de Dios; but being defeated of their aim, by reason that Fleet was re-inforc’d with a considerable Supply, they set Sail Anno 1629. towards the City and Fort of St. Martin, where coming to an Anchor they found the Place in this condition: On the right side of the City glides a fresh-Water River, with many meandring Streams from the Mountains; on the left side the Ocean makes a great Opening or Bay, which for a little space growing narrower, becomes at last an Inland Lake; from the Countrey opposite to the City on the other side of the fore-mention’d Inlet, runs a Ridge of Hills toward the Sea; on the utmost Point thereof stands a square Fort, defended from the force of the Water with great Stones, pyl’d up at the Foot thereof, cover’d like a House, having on the top of it a Watch-tower, and not far from it a Chappel; moreover, the Mountain Calvaria, rises on each side and behind the City, with high Precipices; not far from the Mouth of the River appears a strong Castle with several Bulwarks, and thereon great Guns; along the Inlet is a fair Market-place; in the middle of the City stands a Church Consecrated to Dominicus, near which there is a large Hospital, which fronts the Sea; the Cathedral stands at the farther end of the City, and on the declivity of a Mountain a fair Chappel; near the great Fort the Governor hath a pretty Palace; nor are the Franciscan Cloysters much inferior to any of the other Structures of this City, which taken altogether bears a good Form, by reason of the uniformity of the Streets.
[Sidenote: The Island possess’d by the Dutch.]
But Anno 1648. the Spaniard totally deserted this Island, which Michael Adriaenszoon Ruiter hearing of, brought several People from St. Eustathius, and took possession of it in the Name of the States of the United Netherlands: Yet they enjoy’d not long the entire Propriety, for the Spaniards again went and claim’d those Places which were theirs upon the first gaining of the Island; which the Hollanders allowing them, they liv’d peaceably and quietly together, each having their own Churches, Store-houses, Land, and Negro’s. The Dutch Plantation was maintain’d by the Zealand Lords, Lamsen and Van Ree.
There are divers Pools of salt Water in this Island, which afford the Inhabitants store of Fish, and especially Tortoises.
The Woods produce wild Hogs, Pigeons, Turtle-Doves, and Parraquito’s resembling a Parrot, and which though much smaller, are more apt to be taught.
[Sidenote: Flammans.]
Near the Salt-pools also breed Birds call’d Flammans, not unlike a Jack-daw, onely differing in Feathers, for they are first white, next ash-colour’d, and at last turn red; they seldom flye or sit alone, but for the most part in great Flocks in open places, and Moorish Grounds; when some of them seek for their Food under Water, one of them stands Centinel, and on the least noise or appearance of a Man, gives notice by Chirping to the rest, who hereupon immediately flee away; those that shoot them lie commonly hid under an Ox Hide.
[Sidenote: American Swallows.]
About the same Pools breed likewise the American Swallows, with crooked Bills, Feet like Ducks, black Bodies, white Bellies, and long Tails.
SECT. VIII. St. Bartholomew.
[Sidenote: Situation and Description of St. Bartholomew.]
Near St. Martin, at sixteen Degrees, lies the Island St. Bartholomew, which being about five Leagues in circumference, is surrounded with Rocks, and was first Planted by De Poincy: It makes a delightful Prospect, because of the many Trees which grow on the same; amongst which the most noted are Soap-Trees, whose Wood makes the Water Lather, and washes as well as Soap; but they are of two sorts, for in some this soapy Quality is contain’d in a round yellow Fruit, not unlike a Plumb; in others a white soft Root supplies the office.
[Sidenote: The Canopia-Tree.]
The little Tree Canopia, out of whose Bark drops a Gum, grows also very pleasant, the Body being divided into several Branches; the Leaves are discolour’d, being underneath of a dark Green, and of a brighter at the top; the Flower consists of five Leaves, and closes at last into a kind of Cherry, full of yellow Juice, and white Pulp; it blossoms generally in October and December, and bears ripe Berries the two following Moneths: a Fire being made about the Tree causeth the Bark to crack, whereby it yields abundance of Gum, chiefly us’d in Medicine for its opening and loosening Quality.
[Sidenote: The Paretuve-Tree.]
Likewise the Paretuve-Tree, which grows along by the Sea-side and by Pools, is sufficiently remarkable, for the Boughs thereof grow downwards, twin’d and pleited together so thick, that in time of War they serve for Bulwarks, and are the Recesses of wild Swine.
[Sidenote: The Calabash-Tree.]
Moreover, on this Island, as on all the other hereabouts, grow Calabash-Trees, which have thick Boughs and oval Leaves joyn’d one to another, and bear every Moneth fresh Flowers and Fruit, grey Flowers, mark’d with green Streaks and black Spots, and Fruit with hard Shells, full of juicy Meat and flat Seeds, which being taken out serve for Boxes, Cups, or little Dishes.
[Sidenote: Sea-Star.]
Along the Shore is also found a sort of Fish call’d the Sea-Star, which is a yellowish Fish, whose hard Skin full of little Knobs shoot forth five Darts or Beams; in stormy Weather they fasten themselves to the Rocks.
[Sidenote: Sea-Apple.]
No less wonderful is the Fish call’d the Sea-Apple, whose brown Skin is full of Prickles, which when the Fish dies fall off, nothing remaining but a white Shell, curiously embroider’d with little Holes.
On the Banks, and near the Rocks, grow also Sea-Trees, whose thickest Boughs putting forth still lesser and lesser Branches, are pleited together very wonderfully, and being all glaz’d as it were with Salt-petre, seem greyish.
SECT. IX. Barboude.
[Sidenote: Situation of Barbouthos.]
Barbouthos, which some call Barboude, others Barbada, being five Leagues in length, lies at seventeen Degrees and thirty Minutes, and North-East from Monserrat, in a shallow Sea.
[Sidenote: English molested by the Caribbeeans.]
Here the English Planting, have from their first Arrival been much molested by the Caribbeeans of Dominico, who for a great while us’d twice a year to Invade them in the Night, killing and destroying whom and whatsoe’re they met with, onely Women and Children, with some other Booty, they carried to Dominico.
SECT. X. Rotonda.
[Sidenote: Situation of Rotonda.]
The Isle Rotonda, which is much lesser, hath receiv’d that Denomination from its round Form, for it rises in the middle into a Hill, which at a distance appears like a Steeple; It lies at seventeen Degrees and ten Minutes. The Sea about the same being very deep, makes a good coming to the Island with Ships.
SECT. XI. Nevis.
[Sidenote: Situation of Nevis.]
In sight of Rotonda, at seventeen Degrees and nineteen Minutes, lies Nevis, which hath six Leagues in circumference. Out of the middle of the Island rises a Mountain all over wooddy; round about which the English, who Setled there Anno 1628. have their Plantations, and have increased from a small number to above three thousand, and make a good Advantage of their Sugar, Ginger, Cotton, and Tobacco, which they Plant there.
[Sidenote: Good Government of the English there.]
They are Govern’d by a peculiar Governor and a Council, who punish Thieves, and all manner of Deboshes very severely.
There are also three Churches, which on the Sabbath-Day are all throng’d with People, who resort thither for the Worship and Service of God.
The Harbor call’d Bath-Bay, and the Store-house built about the same, are secured by a great Fort full of great Guns.
Several Springs on this Island afford the Inhabitants good Water. Here is also a Mineral Spring, a place to Bathe in, which hath been found to cure the same Distempers which the Waters at Bourbon have done.
[Sidenote: The Pistick-Nut.]
Moreover, this Island abounds with the Pistacie or Pistick-Nuts, which grow on small Trees, with soft long Leaves, round at bottom, and ending in three Points: These Trees being commonly full of thick Boughs, serve commodiously for Hedges; the Wood and Leaves sweat a milky Juice, dropping out of the same with the Rain; the yellow Flowers which grow on the same are like glittering Stars, and the taste of the Nuts like a Hazle; but if the Skin which covers the Kernel be not pull’d off before they are eaten, they purge to Death.
[Sidenote: The Musticho.]
But the great Profit which Nevis receives by Nature is attended with some Inconveniences, which trouble this and all the other Islands: amongst many may be reckon’d the Musticho’s, a sort of little Bugs, whose poysonous Sting causes such intolerable Itching, that those who are stung by them cannot forbear to scratch themselves till the Blood comes, by which their Sores festering, prove often very dangerous.
[Sidenote: The Muringoins.]
Also the Muringoins, who are so much the less dangerous, because they make always a great noise before they sting.
Wasps likewise are here very troublesom, but their Stings are cur’d with Rue, as the Stings of Scorpions are with the Juice press’d out of the same Animal.
[Sidenote: Wood-Lice.]
The Wood-Lice, which are here in great abundance, have a soft and white Body, onely the Head, which is mark’d with a black Speck; their Mouthes are so very hard, that in two hours time they eat through thick Chests. And no less damage do the Banettos.
[Sidenote: Chigos.]
But the Chigos are a kind of small Fleas, that breed in Dust, Ashes, and the like, and are of all the most pernicious; they first get in under the Nails of the Toes, and from thence run over all the Body, but especially the bottoms of the Feet, where they first occasion an Itching, and then eat Holes through the Skin; they make Blisters as big as Pease in the Flesh, wherein a swarm of young ones breeding, cause Ulcers and rotten Flesh, which must be eaten away with Aqua-fortis and burnt Allom.
SECT. XII. Eustathius.
[Sidenote: Situation of Eustathius.]
Eustathius, which is rather a Mountain, rising out of the Ocean like a Sugar-Loaf, than an Island, lies at seventeen Degrees and forty Minutes: It hath scarce five Leagues in circumference, yet receiv’d some while since a Colony of above sixteen hundred People, sent thither from the States of the United Netherlands, under the Command of the Lords Lampsen and Ree. Besides the natural Strength of the Place, whereby a few are able to keep off a great number, it is fortifi’d with a strong Fort, which Commands the Harbor. The Inhabitants are very industrious, and make great profit of the Tobacco which they Plant.
In the midst of this Island is a Mountain over-grown with Trees, which seems to end in a Point, and hath about it a pleasant Plain.
The abundance of Fowls, Hogs and Goats, afford the Inhabitants store of Provisions; for their Store-houses are never so empty, but that they can supply their Neighbors Wants.
The want of fresh-water Brooks they supply with Rain-water, which they preserve in Cisterns.
[Sidenote: Terrible Hurricanes.]
Though the Air of the Island be wholsom, and the Soil fruitful, yet it is subject to many great Inconveniences; for besides the terrible Thunder-claps and Earthquakes, that rend the Ground, the Inhabitants are exceedingly troubled in August, and September with the Winds, which in twenty four hours blow from all Points of the Compass with such mighty Gusts, as if they would turn all things into their first Chaos. The Caribbeeans call these Tempests Hurricanes, which formerly us’d to happen but once in seven years, but of late every two years, and sometimes twice in a year. What damage these Winds cause is scarce to be express’d; the Sea raising its turbulent Waves up to the Skyes, casts the Ships on the Shore, which though in Harbor, are certain to be wrack’d, whilest the Land seems to labor under a general Ruine, whole Woods being rooted up by the same, or at least bereav’d of Boughs and Leaves; the Corn is beaten down, the Plants blasted, Houses turn’d topsie-turvy, Mountains rent asunder, and sometimes pieces of Rocks blown into the Sea. Before the Hurricanes there are several fore-runners, which give notice of their sudden approach, viz. the Sea on a sudden is so calm, that the least motion is not perceiv’d; the Birds flye from the Mountains into the Valleys, where they lay themselves flat on the Ground; and the Rain which falls is bitter and salt.
Charles de Rochfort observ’d, that in his time some Ships laden with Tobacco being lost in a Hurricane before St. Christophers, soon after the Tempest ceased, thousands of Fishes were seen swimming with their Bellies upwards, intoxicated no doubt with the Tobacco.
SECT. XIII. Antego.
[Sidenote: Situation of Antego.]
Between Nevis and Montserrat, at sixteen Degrees and eleven Minutes, lies Antego, being seven Leagues long, and about six broad; It is dangerous to come at with great Ships, because of the many Rocks which lie before it, and remain’d the longer uninhabited, because of the want of fresh Water; yet at last the English taking possession of it, digg’d Pits, and made Troughs to catch and preserve Rain-water in, so that it is now inhabited by at least eight hundred People, who live on Plants, Venison, and Fish.
[Sidenote: The Sword-Fish.]
Upon the Sea-shore appears often-times the Sword-fish, which hath no Scales, but a grey Skin, and white Belly, rough like a Fyle, a flat Head, two Fins on each side, two on the Back, and one in stead of a Tail, with which it makes a swift motion: the Sword of it is a long Bone, arm’d on each side with twenty seven white and strong Teeth. This Fish striving to be Chief of the Sea, Encounters with all other Fishes whatsoever, even with the Whale himself, whose Belly he often rends open; near his Eyes are two Nostrils, out of which he blows the Water he drinks into the Air.
SECT. XIV. Montserrat.
[Sidenote: Description of Montserrat.]
Montserrat, lying just at the seventeenth Degree, is so call’d from a Spanish Hill beyond Barcellona, whose shape this Island represents off at Sea; It is about three Leagues in length, and almost as much in breadth, and is very Mountainous, except a little towards the East, and as much Westward.
The English have a Church here, lin’d in the in-side with Cedar, which this Island produces in great abundance.
[Sidenote: The Acajou-Tree.]
Also the Acajou-Tree, which grows an exceeding heighth, with mighty Boughs, under which many judge it very wholsom to sleep: But there are two sorts of the Acajou-Tree, the one differing from the other in tallness of Body and Colour; of which the most esteem’d is the red and sweet-smelling, which is not subject to any decay; for that which is white, and yields Gum when cut, is of a less value.
[Sidenote: The Acomas-Tree.]
The Acomas is also no way inferior in bigness to the Acajou, which bears long swarthy Leaves, and yellow Fruit not unlike a Plumb; but because of their extraordinary bitterness they are not eatable, onely the wild Pigeons at a certain time of the year feed on them, after which their Flesh becomes bitter also; from the Bark when cut, runs a milky Juice.
[Sidenote: The Cypress-Tree.]
The Cypress-Trees when plan’d, yield a pleasant Marble colour to the Eye, and a delightful fragrance to the Scent.
[Sidenote: The Iron-Tree.]
The Iron-Tree, with sharp-pointed Leaves, crack’d near the Stalk, blossoms in March and September; after the Violet Blossoms follow a black kind of Fruit like a Cherry, being an excellent Food for Birds; the Wood whilst flourishing is red, but cut down changes its colour, yet is so hard that it never decays.
[Sidenote: The Musk-Herb.]
Moreover the Musk-Herb yields a sweet smell, and grows like Brambles without Thorns; between long dusky Leaves hang yellow Flowers, which afterwards become Cods full of Seeds, that smell exactly like Musk.
SECT. XV. Guadalupe.
[Sidenote: Situation of Guadalupe.]
Guadalupe, or Gardelupe, formerly call’d Carricueira, lying at about sixteen Degrees, and containing sixty Leagues in circumference (for it is the biggest and noblest of the Caribbee Islands,) is divided in two by a narrow Channel; wherefore one part is call’d Grand-Terre, and the other properly Guadalupe; whose Eastern Point, nam’d Cabes-Terre, and its Western, call’d Basse-Terre, are both inhabited by the French.
[Sidenote: Mountains.]
Several high Mountains, especially towards the Center, start up from very low Grounds, with their barren Crowns towards the Skye, some whereof are overgrown with Trees.
At the Feet of some of the Mountains are large Plains, water’d by sweet Streams which formerly invited the Spanish Fleets thither to water.
There is also a sulphurous Mountain, which smoaking continually gives the taste of Sulphur to the Streams which flow about the same.
This Island boasts likewise several boyling Springs which cure the Dropsie, and all other Distempers proceeding from Colds.
[Sidenote: Strange Fish.]
Towards each of the two fore-mention’d Points, are large Gulphs that produce abundance of Tortoises, and all manner of Fish, and amongst others one sort not known by Name, which is generally about four Foot long, having a sharp and big Head, with glittering Eyes, a Back streak’d with blue and green, and a Belly half white and half red, eight yellow Fins, and a broad Tail, with which it swims exceeding swift.
[Sidenote: The Shark.]
Near the Shore swim the Sharks, an ugly Sea Monster, which bites a Man asunder in the Middle at once; their Head is hard and prickly, their flat Mouthes opening discover three rows of Teeth.
[Sidenote: The Pilot-Fish.]
After this Fish swims generally the Pilot-Fish, or Rambos, which is so curiously speckled, that Nature seems herein to excell what-ever can be represented by the artificial Pencil and move either swifter or slower, according as the Shark leads. The Brain of this Fish is judg’d exceeding good against the Gravel and Stone.
[Sidenote: The discovery of Guadalupe.]
Guadalupe was first discover’d in the Year of our Lord 1635. by the French, under the Command of the Lords Du Plessis and De Olive, and after them one of the Captains of St. Christophers: Since which the Champain Ground being Till’d and Manur’d, brings forth in great plenty, Rice, Maiz, Manicock, and Potato’s.
Father Raymond Breton got possession of the fruitfullest part of the Island for the Reformed Jacobines, or White-Fryers, and since the present Governor Monsieur De Howell sent also for the Jesuits and Carmelites, to build Cloysters in a new City, which lies in Basse-Terre, and which is also built full of Store-houses and Dwelling-houses two Stories high.
The Castle, which lies near the City, hath four Bulwarks, with great Guns.
The next neighboring Mountain is also crown’d with a Garrison’d Fort.
[Sidenote: The Moubane-Tree.]
The Countrey hereabouts bears Moubane-Trees, which produce yellow oval Plumbs with great Stones, wherewith the Hogs are exceedingly fatned.
[Sidenote: The Corbary.]
The Corbary, which grows higher than the Moubane, hath a hard shelly Fruit, in which lies a douny Pulp of a Saffron colour: The Gum which drops out of the Tree is hardned by the Sun, and becomes very clear, wherefore the Caribbeeans make use of it for Arm-rings, and other Ornaments.
SECT. XVI. Deseado.
[Sidenote: Situation of Deseado.]
Ten Leagues to the North-West of Guadalupe, and at sixteen Degrees and ten Minutes, appears Deseado, or Desirado, like a Galley, of which the North-East end hath a low Point; to the Northward lie Sand-Hills full of red Veins: It was so call’d by Christopher Columbus in his second Voyage, from obtaining of his Desire, it being the first of the Caribbees which he discover’d, as St. Salvador the first Land in all America.
[Sidenote: The Guano.]
The Soil is wholly barren, and destitute of Trees, and breeds the amphibious Creatures call’d Guano’s, which in stead of Fins to swim withal, have four Feet; the biggest of them are fifteen Inches long; their Skin full of little Scales shines like Silver, and in the Night they make a loud and shrill noise from the Holes in the Rocks.
[Sidenote: The Frigates.]
On this desolate Island are an innumerable company of Fowls, call’d Frigates, which have a Body like a Duck, but larger Wings, and flye swifter; so soon as they perceive a Fish in the Water, they falling upon the same, catch them in their Claws, and especially devour abundance of flying Fish.
[Sidenote: The Fauves.]
But the Fauves, which are much leaner, are no way so swift; they resemble a Moor-Hen, have Feet like Ducks, Bills like a Snipe, and in rainy Nights rest on the Ships in stead of Rocks, so that many times they become an easie prey to the Mariners.
SECT. XVII. Marigalante.
[Sidenote: Situation of Marigalante.]
Not far from hence, at fifteen Degrees and forty Minutes, appears Marigalante, like a Wood in the Water.
On the South-East side, about half a League from the Shore, lie black full of white Specks. Westerly the Shore is very plain, whither the Governor Monsieur De Howell sent some People from that Island, of which twenty were kill’d by the Caribbeeans, who had Gardens and Fish-ponds thereon: Not long after which Howell built a Fort here, and Garrison’d the same with French-men.
The Woods afford a delightful sight to the Eye, as also the Cinamon-Trees, whose Leaves never wither, a sweet smell to the Nose.
[Sidenote: The Fish Lamantin.]
The Ocean hereabouts produces plenty of Lamantins, which are dry’d like Haberdine. This Fish grows eighteen Foot long and seven thick; the Head thereof is like a Cows, with little Eyes, and a thick brown Skin, rough and speckled in some places, and hath two little Feet in stead of Fins; it feeds on Weeds, which grow on the Rocks and Banks; the Females bring two young ones at a time, which suck for some days; their Flesh palatable and wholsom, is streak’d with Fat, which when melted never putrifies; they are oftner taken in the Mouthes of Rivers than in the Ocean.
[Sidenote: The Sea-Devils.]
About this Isle, as well as the rest of the Caribbees, are Fishes call’d Sea-Devils, four Foot long, and proportionably thick, their Skins rough, their Heads flat, their Backs arm’d with Prickles, little black Eyes, wide Mouthes full of Teeth, and two Tusks that slick out of the same, four Fins, a long slit Tail, with which they swim exceeding swift, above their Eyes slick broad sharp Horns turn’d towards the Back; the Flesh is deadly poyson.
[Sidenote: The Becune.]
The Becune, which is eight Foot long, falls upon a Fish like a mad Dog, biting great pieces of the Flesh out of the Body, which occasions present Death; its Flesh is likewise poyson.
SECT. XVIII. Todos Sanctos.
[Sidenote: Situation of Todos Sanctos.]
[Sidenote: Curious sorts of Shells.]
Southward from Guadalupe, and at the same Latitude with Marigalante, lie four desolate Isles, call’d Todos Sanctos, and on their Shores a sort of Shell-fish call’d Lambis, from the resemblance of a Tongue; the Shells whereof the Indians Sound in stead of Horns when they give an Alarm; as also another sort call’d Porcelenes, of which the most esteem’d are without of a Carnation, and within of a Silver, or Skye-colour mix’d with Golden Beams. The next are the Black, mix’d with a pale Blue, and little Veins. But the most remarkable Shells are those, whose Back Nature hath mark’d in such a manner with Musical Notes, that one might almost express a Tune by them.
[Sidenote: Mother-of-Pearl Oysters.]
Moreover, it would amaze the Beholder, to see the Mother-of-Pearl Oyster moving at the Foot of a Rock; for at the Rising of the Sun they appear above the Water, and gape for the Dew, of which they have no sooner receiv’d a Drop, but they close their Shells, and fall to the Ground again.
SECT. XIX. De Aves.
[Sidenote: Situation of De Aves.]
Westward from Todos Sanctos, at fifteen Degrees and forty five Minutes, lies the Isle De Aves.
[Sidenote: Aigrettos.]
Besides Ducks, Pluvers, Moor-hens, Geese, and the like Fowls (that suffer themselves to be catch’d by the Hands of Men, which are very strange to them) there are here also many rare sorts of Birds, as the white Birds call’d Aigrettos, which are somewhat bigger than Crows, with red Bills and Feet, and curious Plumes on their Heads; they often flye a great way off at Sea.
[Sidenote: Craw-fowl.]
The large Bird call’d The Craw-fowl, which feeds on Fish, hath a thick Head, a long flat Bill, hollow Eyes, and a short Neck, under which hangs the Maw, big enough to contain a Pail full of Water: On the Trees along the Sea-side they watch for Fish which swim near the top of the Water, and by their attentiveness on their Prey, are easily shot themselves.
[Sidenote: Arras.]
Here is likewise the Bird Arras, of the bigness of a Pheasant, but more resembling a Parraquito: their long Tail consists of divers colour’d Feathers, some have shining skye-colour’d Heads, Backs, and Necks, their Bellies and Wings of a pale Yellow; they are so stout, or rather so simple, that if they are not hit with the first Shot, they will stay for a second: They also learn to talk, but not so distinctly as the Canides, which are no way inferior in beauty to the Arras, nay exceed them very much: Monsieur du Montell above mention’d, seeing one at Corassao, describes it after this manner:
[Sidenote: Description of the Canides.]
“It deserves to be numbred (saith he) amongst the most beautiful Birds in the World: I took so particular notice of it, having had of them in my Hands many times, that I have the Idea’s of it still fresh in my Memory. Under the Belly, Wings, and Neck, it was of a waving Aurora-colour, the Back, and one half of the Wings, of a very bright Skye-colour, the Tail and greater Feathers of the Wings were mix’d with a sparkling Carnation, diversifi’d with a Skye-colour, as upon the Back a Grass-green and shining Black, which very much added to the Gold and Azure of the other Plumage: But the most beautiful part was the Head, cover’d with a Murrey Doun, checquer’d with Green, Yellow, and a pale Blue, which reach’d down wavingly to the Back: The Eye-lids were white, and the Apple of the Eye yellow and red as a Ruby Set in Gold: It had upon the Head a certain Tuft or Cap of Feathers of a Vermilion Red, sparkling like a lighted Coal, which was encompass’d by several other lesser Feathers of a Pearl-colour.
“If it were recommendable for all these extraordinary Ornaments, it was much more for its Familiarity and Innocency; for though it had a crooked Beak, and that the Claws with which it held its Meat and brought it to its Beak, were so sharp as to take away whatsoever it fastned upon, yet was it so tame as to play with little Children and never hurt them; and when one took him into his Hand, he so contracted his Claws, that the sharpness of them could not be felt: He had this Quality of a Dog, That he would Lick with his short and thick Tongue those who made much of him and gave him something he lik’d, put his Head to their Cheeks to Kiss and Caress them, and expressing his Acknowledgments by a thousand pretty Insinuations, he would suffer himself to be put into what posture one would, and took a certain pleasure in diverting those he thought his Friends: But as he was mild and tractable to those who were kind to him, so was he mischievous and irreconcileable to such as had injur’d him, and he could distinguish them from others, and make them feel the sharpness of his Beak and Claws.
“He pratled in the Dutch, Spanish, and Indian Languages, and in the last he sung Airs as a natural Indian: He also imitated the Cries of all sorts of Poultrey and other Creatures about the House; he call’d all his Friends by their Names and Sirnames, flew to them as soon as he saw them, especially when he was hungry; if they had been absent, and that he had not seen them a long time, he express’d his joy at their return by certain merry Notes; when he had sported himself till they were weary of him, he went away, and perch’d himself on the top of the House, and there he talk’d, sung, and play’d a thousand tricks, laying his Feathers in order, and dressing and cleaning himself with his Beak. He was easily kept; for not onely the Bread commonly us’d in that Island, but all the Fruits and Roots growing there, were his ordinary Food; and when he had more given him than he needed, he carefully laid up the remainder under the Leaves wherewith the House was cover’d, and took it when he had need. In a word, I never saw a more loving or more amiable Bird; ’twas a Present for any Prince, if he could have been brought over the Sea. This Bird had been brought from the Caribbee Islands to Monsieur Rodenborck, then Governor of the Fort and Dutch Colony, which is in the Island of Corassao.”
SECT. XX. Dominico.
[Sidenote: Situation of Dominico.]
At fifteen Degrees and thirteen Minutes, lies the Island Dominico, so call’d because it was discover’d on a Sunday, about thirty Leagues long, and not much less in breadth, and diversifi’d with high Mountains, and exceeding deep Valleys; of which the Caribbeeans that dwell there relate, That formerly in one of the deepest of them, a huge and monstrous Serpent had an Army of Serpents to defend an invaluable Carbuncle which he had in his Head; which being cover’d with a thin Skin, was onely discernable when he drank or play’d, for then the lustre thereof lightned the whole Valley.
When first the French approach’d this Coast with their Ships, the Islanders going Aboard in their Canoos, barter’d Provisions for Coral, Crystal, and other Trifles.
[Sidenote: The Manchenile Tree.]
On this Isle also grows the famous Manchenile-Tree, which bears long Leaves, and sweet smelling Fruit, streak’d red, and tasting like a Hazle-Nut, but bringing a deadly Sleep upon those that eat of it; it seldom rots though it fall into the Sea, or any fresh Rivers, but is crusted over with a Shell resembling Salt-petre, and poysons the Water in such a manner, that all the Fish dying, are seen floating upon it; in the Trunk and Boughs thereof is a milky Juice, which dropping upon the Body, causes it to break out in Scabs, and if it chances to touch the Eyes, it takes away the Sight for nine days: and not less hurtful is the Moisture which drops from the Tree.
The Caribbeeans dip their Arrows in this poysonous Juice, against which Nature hath provided an excellent Medicine, being as followeth:
[Sidenote: A Medicine against the poison of the Manchenile.]
There are amongst the other Reptiles of America a sort of Snails, which creep into the Legs of dead Crabs, to keep themselves from the Weather; when taken they make a noise, and being laid before the Fire they come forth; the Water squeez’d out of them, or the Oyl drawn from them by the Sun, cures the Parts poyson’d by the Manchenile-Tree.
SECT. XXI. Martinico.
[Sidenote: Situation of Martinico.]
Opposite to Dominico lies Martinico, by the Indians nam’d Matunina, which lying at fourteen Degrees and thirty Scruples, is forty five Leagues in circumference; It appears at a distance like three Mountains, the highest whereof resembles a Hat, and is seen in all parts of the Island, which, on the North where three Rocks deny access for Landing, seems to be divided into three Isles.
The Caribbeeans have been forc’d, after many bloody Battels, to surrender up this Island to the French: But before they were well setled, the Caribbeeans marching over exceeding high Mountains, deep Concavities, and thick Woods, fell upon them with all the Rage imaginable: the Reasons of which some attribute to Du Parquet, who in prejudice of the Martinican Caribbeeans, sent French-men over to Granada and Alouzia: others suppose, that they took up Arms to revenge the Death of their Countrey-men on St. Vincent, who were destroy’d by the French with poyson’d Brandy. But the French furnish’d with new Supplies, took sufficient Revenge; for they drove the Caribbeeans out of their Houses, and chac’d them into Woods and Deserts.
The Hills that are over-grown with Trees, are Receptacles for wild Beasts, especially Hogs and Serpents. The other Hills are Till’d and Sow’n, though not without great trouble.
The Tobacco which grows on the steep Ascents much exceeds that which grows in the Valleys, or in the Tracts of Land shaded with Trees.
[Sidenote: The Island divided into five Wards.]
Since the French, Anno 1635. (being sent from St. Christophers by the Lord Desnambuc) Setled themselves on this Island, under the Command of his Deputy Du Pont, they divided it into five Wards, separated from that part of the Isle which was inhabited by the antient Natives: Each Ward hath a Church, or at least a Chappel, Armory, Store-houses, and Dwelling-houses, like an intire Village.
The first Ward is call’d Pyloot, from a Caribbeean Captain, who was very familiar with Du Parquet, and inform’d him of his Peoples Designs.
The second, nam’d Capot, is wash’d by a River of the same Denomination, and hath many fruitful Plains.
The third retains the Caribbeean Name, being Carbet, signifying a Publick Structure, to which they us’d to resort to Feast, or hold Councils of War; not far from which the Governor dwelt in a Stone House: Near the Harbor stood also an Armory in a Valley, water’d by a fresh River which falls out of the Mountains, shaded with Trees and Gardens full of Rarities: But since the Governor gave this and many other fair Buildings to the Jesuits, he remov’d to the fourth Ward, call’d St. Peter, where he built a Castle, and furnish’d the same with Brass and Iron Guns to defend the Harbor.
A Stones-throw from the Governor’s House lies the Jesuits Cloyster, on the Banks of a pleasant Stream, built very artificially of Marble and Free-stone, and having a pleasant Prospect over the River, and adjacent Gardens, beautifi’d with the choicest of Flowers, Fruits, and Trees; and also a Vineyard, out of which they press a considerable quantity of Wine.
The last Ward, call’d Preacheur, extends East and West, some parts whereof swell into high Mountains, at the Feet whereof stand fair Structures; others sink into low Valleys or Savannas.
[Sidenote: The Mahot-Tree.]
Between the French Settlements and the Caribbeeans, runs an Arm of the Sea, along whose Shores grows abundance of the Mahot-Tree, which is full of Boughs from the top down to the Ground. The Bark of this Tree serves in stead of Ropes, and is also us’d to tie up Tobacco; the Wood it self is durable, and good for Building, wherefore most of the Houses built on Hills are of this Timber.
The best Harbor for Ships is between the Wards Carbet and St. Peter, defended from the Winds by high Hills.
[Sidenote: The Diamond.]
Not far from the Inlet of the Salt-pits, appears about half a League off at Sea, a Rock call’d The Diamond, being a Receptacle for an innumerable multitude of Birds, and especially wild Pigeons.
Besides the Streams that in the rainy Seasons run through the Dales and Savana’s, there are ten Rivers, which falling from the Mountains, glide through the Valleys into the Sea. Sometimes they swell in such a manner, that over-flowing their Banks, they wash down the Trees and Houses; which Inconvenience hath taught the French to build their Houses on Hills or rising Grounds.
The good Situation of this Island hath invited many Families thither.
SECT. XXII. St. Lucia.
[Sidenote: Situation of St. Lucia.]
St. Lucia (by the French, Alouzie) is so call’d because it was discover’d on the thirteenth of December, Dedicated in the Kalendar to the Virgin Martyr Lucia, who was burnt at Syracuse: It lies Southerly from Dominico at thirteen Degrees and forty Minutes, and is ken’d at a great distance by two fiery Mountains; the most Easterly of which is higher than the other.
At the Feet of these two Mountains lie pleasant Valleys, shadow’d by close Woods, and moistned by clear Springs; near which heretofore a small number of Caribbeeans dwelling, maintain’d themselves with Fishing; they went stark naked, and painted their Bodies with red Oker, and drew a Vermilion Stroke from their Ears to their Noses.
An English Ship sent to Guinee to supply the Plantations there, Landed sixty six mutinous Persons here, who were all kill’d by the Inhabitants; but when Henry Jacobson Lucifer putting into the Bay of Lucia to Water there, Anno 1627. Landed to discover the Island, he found neither Man nor House, nor any thing but a barren Soil; yet notwithstanding Du Parquet sent his Deputy Rosselan with a Colony to Plant in this Island.
SECT. XXIII. Barbados.
[Sidenote: Situation of Barbados.]
The Island Barbados, which was Planted by the English, Anno 1627. lies between thirteen and fourteen Degrees, and hath twenty five Leagues in circumference, and somewhat more in length than breadth, and is supply’d with a fresh-Water River, and several Pools. The Ground being fruitful in the producing of Tobacco, Cotton, Ginger, and especially Sugar, invited many People to Settle there, insomuch that in a short time it could shew twenty thousand Inhabitants besides Negro Slaves.
The Trees which grow on this Island, are not onely delightful, but profitable; amongst which the Roucou is one, with sharp Leaves, white Carnation Flowers like Stars, which hang by Clusters at the end of the Boughs, and after a while turn to a Cod full of vermilion Kernels: The Juice dry’d in the Sun and kneaded into Balls, is of a great value. Of the Bark of this Tree they make strong Ropes; and the Root is very wholsom, and of a pleasant taste.
[Sidenote: The Fly Cayouyou.]
Moreover, amongst the Insects that breed here, there are a sort of Flyes worthy of a short Description; the Caribbeeans call them Cayouyou, being about the bigness of a Beetle; they have two strong Wings, and under them thinner, which they never spread abroad but when they flye, and then they carry such a lustre in them, that they give as much Light in the Night as a lighted Candle, (their Eyes also at the same time glittering like Fire) making no noise when they flye; they feed on the Juice of Flowers, and are so smooth, that they are very apt to slip through ones Fingers, and when they find themselves to be taken, they hide their glittering Wings under the other.
The Indians tie these Flies to their Hands and Feet, so to have the benefit of their Light in the Night; and anoint their Bodies all over (at certain Solemnities wherein Candles are forbidden) with the Juice squeez’d out of them, which causes them to shine like a Flame of Fire: They catch them with a piece of Wood which they move in the Air, whereupon the Flyes going to sit, are taken with a Hat; but their Light vanishes if they are kill’d.
But as to what may farther be added concerning this Island, being one of the chief of our Plantations, we cannot better satisfie the curiosity of those who desire a true Information of all things that concern that Place, than by inserting verbatim a Letter from an intelligent Person who hath been long resident there, viz. Colonel Robert Rich, of no older Date than May 31. 1670. by which the present State and Condition of the Island, the Buildings and other Improvements made there by the Planters since they first possess’d it, in what Commodities of the Growth of the Countrey their chief Trade consists, their Strength, Militia, Government, and flourishing Commerce, and what-ever else is material to be imparted, may be clearly understood.
[Sidenote: Colonel Rich his Description of the Barbados.]
SIR,
I have lately seen your Proposal concerning an English Atlas, and having read Dr. Heylin_’s Book of the Chorography and History of the whole World, his third Edition Corrected and Enlarged, Printed_ Anno 1666. _I find him very short and erroneous in his Description of the_ Caribbee Islands, especially of this Island of Barbados, _wherein I have been an Inhabitant more than eleven years. He saith_,
1. The Island is seventeen or eighteen Miles in compass.
2. On the South ’tis furnish’d with a large and commodious Harbor.
3. The chief Commodities are Tobacco, and a kind of course Sugar, call’d Barbados Sugar, which must be quickly spent, or ’twill melt to nothing.
4. That this Island is worth all the Plantations made by the English, and yet that we hold it at the Courtesie of the Spaniard, without whose Leave and Liking, not of Force to hold it.
This Description of Dr. Heylin_’s, in it self very false, is also much to the Dishonor of the_ English Nation, which makes me presume to trouble you with my own Observations, wherein having onely aim’d at the Truth, you shall not have cause to doubt of being misguided.
This Island of Barbados is seated in thirteen Degrees and twenty Minutes, length twenty two Miles, and in breadth fourteen and an half; It is naturally fortifi’d with Rocks and Shoals on the North and East side of it, where no Ship may safely Anchor, onely two or three places small Boats may go out and in to Fish. On the South-East and Westerly part, it is all along a Road when Ships may Ride at Anchor, but more especially in four chief Places, Roads and Bays thereof.
The principal Road or Bay is call’d Carlisle Bay, and lieth on the South-West part of the Island near its Center, and is a good Road, where five hundred Ships of any Burthen may Ride safely from all but South and Westerly Winds, which seldom in these Parts happen, they generally blowing Easterly, whence it is that we call the East parts Windward, and the West parts Leeward. Here lies also the chief Town for Trade, call’d formerly the Bridge-Town, but now St. Michaels, and having two Forts, answering each other, and a Platform between, which Commands the Road, and Defends the Town; the first and chiefest Fort is call’d Charles Fort, standing on Nedhams Point, lying out in the Sea to Windward of the Bay and Town, so that an Enemy keeping out of Command of this Fort, cannot (probably) come to do the Ships or the Town injury, for that they must come full in or against the Wind. This Fort is built strong with Stone and Lime; the Platform joyns to the Windward part of the Town; also the other Fort joyns to the Leeward part of the Town, all which are well fortifi’d and stor’d with great Guns. The Town consists of several Streets and Lanes, being about thirty Chain in length, and fifteen in breadth, and hath many fair and large Buildings, whereof the most are of Stone and Lime.
The second Road and Town is lately call’d Charles-Town, situate on Oysters-Bay, and lies about two Leagues to Windward of St. Michaels, having also two Forts and one Platform; the two Forts stand the one to Windward, and the other to Leeward of the Town and Road, and the Platform in the middle, all well furnish’d with great Guns. And although this Town be not a Place of much Resort for Shipping, yet here are many considerable Store-houses for Trade, wherein Monethly are kept the Court of Common-Pleas for that Precinct, and Weekly Markets.
The third Road and Town is lately call’d St. James’s, formerly the Hall, and is about two Leagues to the Leeward of St. Michaels, hath one very large Platform, and is otherwise well fortifi’d with Breast-works; and although few Ships come to Ride here, yet in this Town is maintain’d a great Trade with the Inhabitants adjacent; here also is kept Monethly the Court of Common-Pleas for this Precinct.
The fourth Road and Town is lately call’d Little Bristol, but formerly Sprights-Bay, which lieth about four Leagues to Leeward of St. Michaels, and hath two Forts well built, and strongly fortifi’d. To this Place come many Ships, especially from the City of Bristol, the which here Ride, unload and re-load, it being the next greatest Place of Repute to St. Michaels in the whole Island.
This Island is divided into eleven Parishes, and hath in it fourteen Churches and Chappels, and being subdivided into divers Plantations, small and great, hath Sugar-works accordingly, with fair and large Buildings made of Stone and Brick, the which generally are pleasant Habitations, and delightfully situated, most having pleasant Prospects to the Sea and Land.
The Inhabitants of this Island are English, Scotch, and Irish, and some, but very few of the Dutch and French Nation, who formerly liv’d here a time of Servitude, and now dwell as Free-men, some by their Trades, and others on Plantations; also some few Jews live here and Trade as Merchants, they having obtain’d Licence from His Majesty so to do; besides Mulatto’s and Negro’s which are here kept, and accounted for Slaves, the number of which some years since, upon search, were found to be sixty thousand Persons, viz. forty thousand Whites, and twenty thousand Blacks.
The standing Militia of this Island that are in readiness to meet together on all occasions, and which at other times are often and well Disciplin’d, consist of two Regiments of Horse, and five Regiments of Foot, wherein several Companies have near two hundred in a Company, and in some Troops more than a hundred Horse in a Troop; by all which you may easily apprehend how little of truth there is in that Saying, That we hold this Island at the Courtesie of the Spaniards, when those few English in Jamaica give the Spaniards such work to defend themselves.
The Growth and Manufacture of this Island and parts adjacent, is Sugars of all sorts, viz. Muscovado, Clay’d, and Refin’d; (I suppose I have seen here as good Sugar made as any is in the World) Gingers, Indico, and Cotton-wool; also Tobacco, Logwood, Fustick, green and yellow, and Lignum-vitæ: Of these four last heretofore much, but now no quantities to be had in this Island, onely to the Leeward great store. The first four mention’d Commodities receive prejudice to their Product by abundance of Rains or Droughts not happening their proper Seasons: also violent Winds lodge the Sugar-Canes, whereby the quantity and goodness is lessned. The chief time for Expectation is from January to September, when comes in the wet Season, that makes the Roads not Cartable, and usually puts an end to Making and Transportation of them. We have two Crops of Corn in a year, Planted usually when the Rains first come in, in May and November, which is gather’d in about October, and in March and April following. Wines of all sorts are here Imported, but of Portuguese and French the greatest quantities, viz. of Madera, upwards of fifteen hundred Tun yearly; of Spanish, upward of two hundred Tun; of French-Wines, upward of seven hundred Tun; besides Brandy and English Spirits; but of these latter now no great quantities Imported or spent, by reason of the general use of the Spirit of Sugar-Cane, call’d Rum, which the meaner sort, as Servants and Slaves, do not onely drink in great abundance, but much also is hence Transported into Virginia, Bermudas, and New-England. Here is also Imported great store of Provisions of all sorts, viz. Beef, Pork, Fish, &c. from Ireland, New-England, Virginia, Bermudas, New-found Land, &c. also Pease, Flour, Butter, Cheese, and Bisquet; likewise Timber, Boards, Pipe and Hogshead, Staves, &c. also Negro-Slaves from Guinee, and live Cattel, as Bulls, Cows, Asinego’s, and Horses, from the Cape de Verd Island, New-England; and from England, Servants, and all other Commodities for Plantations, and for Apparel; of all which great quantities are hither brought and sold.
The Shipping that comes to Trade to this Island belongs generally to England; some few Vessels are here built, and pass to and fro to the Leeward Islands; and some belong to New-England, Bermudas, &c. The number of Vessels which come hither to Trade in one year is found upon search to be about two hundred of all sorts, (some years more, some less) as Ketches, Sloops, Barques, &c. containing in Burthen fifteen thousand and five hundred and five Tun, according as they were here Entred, which is at the least a third part less than their true Burthen, by reason every Ship pays one pound of Powder per Tun, the means ordain’d by this Country for storing the Magazine; the greatest part of which Ships re-load with Sugars for England, and many go for New-England, Bermudas, Virginia, Tangier, &c. not always full loaden with this Countreys Growth. The usual Rate for Tunnage from hence to London, is from 4 l. to 5 l. per Tun; sometime when Ships are very plentiful, it is at 3 l. and less, and at other times when scarce, from 6 l. to 7 l. in the late War with the Dutch, it was at 10. 11. and 12 l. per Tun.
The Government is Constituted by the Laws of England, and Laws not repugnant to them, onely some particular Laws are here made, proper for this Place, by the Governor (or Deputy) and his Council, (which usually are from seven to twelve in number) and an Assembly that consists of twenty two Persons, chosen by the Free-holders, two out of every Parish.
SECT. XXIV. St. Vincent.
[Sidenote: Situation of St. Vincent.]
The Island of St. Vincent, South-West from St. Lucia, and having sixteen Degrees of North-Latitude, was so call’d by the Spaniards, as having discover’d it on that Saint’s Day, being the fifth of April: It is accounted eight Leagues long and six broad, and rises round about with high Grounds and several Mountains, which are seen at a great distance.
This Island hath a very fruitful Soil, and for the bigness of it hath been long since well peopled with Caribbeeans before the arrival of the Spaniards, possessing here several Villages, to whom they are still sworn Enemies, but Truck’d with the Hollanders for Provisions, Horns, Axes, Knives, and other Trifles. At the West and South sides are convenient Bays to lie at Anchor and take Water in.
[Sidenote: The Fruit Momen.]
The Inhabitants highly esteem the Momen, growing to the bigness of an Apple-Tree; the Fruit which it bears resembles a green Cucumber, and is of a pleasant Juice, the Skin always green and prickly; the Seed which is in the same about the bigness of a French Bean, is generally black, and streak’d with Golden-colour’d Veins.
[Sidenote: The Granadilla.]
Here is also that Plant mention’d elsewhere, by the Spaniard call’d Granadilla, by the Dutch Rhang-Apple, and La Fleur de la Passion by the French; and it is so call’d, as being fancied to represent the thorny Crown of our Saviour, together with the Cross, Nails, Hammer and Pillar; the Plant runs along the Ground, unless it meet with a Pole by which it runs up.
SECT. XXV. Bekia.
[Sidenote: Situation of Bekia.]
Not far from St. Vincent lies the Island Bekia, which reckons twelves Leagues in circumference, and lies at twelve Degrees and twelve Scruples of Northern Latitude: It hath a secure Harbor against all Winds; but because it is without fresh Water, it is onely frequented by the Caribbeeans that dwell on St. Vincent, who come hither to Fish, and visit certain little Gardens which they have there for their pleasure.
The Soil produces store of Water-melons, whose red juicy Pulp yields, when squeez’d, a great quantity of sweet Liquor, which is very refreshing, and good to create an Appetite; their white Flowers, notch’d at the end of the leaves, afford a delightful smell.
Anno 1633. Captain John Johnson Van Hoorn putting in to Bekia to catch Tortoises, found a fine Inlet on the West, and Eastward a Ridge of Rocks, Cotton growing wild in the Fields, and upon the Shore a kind of Snails call’d Burgun, under whose first Shell appear’d another of a Silver colour with black Specks.
SECT. XXVI. Granada.
[Sidenote: Situation of Granada.]
Granada, lying at twelve Degrees and sixteen Scruples, like a Half-moon, from the North to the South, is full of Woods. Towards the South-West runs a fresh River into the Sea. The Shore very low affords good Anchorage at twelve Leagues distance. The Current grows exceeding strong here, and the Water also ebbs and flows in a few hours. Dirick Simonszoon Witgeest Sailing from Tabago, was amaz’d to see with what force the Current drove him to Granada.
[Sidenote: The French possess it.]
Hither Du Parquet at his own Charge sent three hundred Men from Martinico, who scuffled with the Inhabitants six Moneths before they could possess the same in Peace; and scarce had they obtain’d it at last, but by telling them that the French Assistance would be very advantageous unto them against the Arovages.
The Duke Seryllac in Paris inform’d of the Fertility of this Island, bought it of Du Parquet for a considerable Sum of Money: And indeed Granada is none of the meanest of the Caribbees, the Soil producing very good both Fruit and Timber-Trees, amongst which is the Latine-Tree, of a tall Body, but ordinary thickness, and in stead of Boughs, hang Leaves like Fans in long Stalks, which being ty’d together, serve for Roofs of Houses.
There is also the Tree Cocoa, which yet grows not so high here as in other parts of the West-Indies.
SECT. XXVII. Tabago.
[Sidenote: Situation of Tabago.]
The next which comes in view is Tabago, (so call’d, as some think, from the quantity of that Drug there Planted) eight Leagues long and four broad, lying in the eleventh Degree and sixteen Minutes of Northern Latitude, and hath many high Mountains full of Wood, out of which glide eighteen Streams, which watering the Plains fall into the Sea.
Captain Vitgeest coming to an Anchor here, found a convenient Inlet on the East, and fresh Water to fill his Casks. Half a League from the Shore rise five Rocks, through which he Sail’d with his Ships. Within the Cliff opens a Bay, into which runs a River well stor’d with Fish. More Westerly lies a larger Inlet, which receives two delightful Streams. From the Western Promontory runs also a Cliff Northward into the Sea.
This Island is easily known by high Coasts which rise on the East side, and so grows lower by degrees. It is likewise made pleasant by many Walks of Trees.
The Sea produces abundance of those sorts of Fish which are common amongst us, besides Tortoises, that lay their Eggs in the Sand.
[Sidenote: Cra-fish.]
The Cra-fish thereabouts are not much unlike Lobsters, have white and well tasted Flesh, but hard to digest; they catch them in the Night on sandy Shelves with lighted Torches.
[Sidenote: Crabs.]
The Crabs get their Food very wonderfully here; for when they observe the Mussles or Oysters to Gape for fresh Air, they put Stones between their Shells, so that they not being able to shut them, they pull out the Fish with their Claws.
The Woods feed an innumerable company of Beasts somewhat resembling Hogs, (whose Navels are on their Backs) Opassums, Javaris’s, and Tatows, as also the Agoutys’s and Musk-Rats.
[Sidenote: Agoutys.]
The Agoutys’s are of a dark brown colour, and have little Tails, two Teeth in their upper, and as many in their lower Jaw; they make a noise as if they spoke, crying Couye; if hunted by Dogs, they run into hollow Trees, out of which they are routed by Smoak.
[Sidenote: Musk-Rats.]
The great Musk-Rats are as big as a Rabbet, and like them live in Holes made in the Ground, but resemble an European Rat, onely their Skins are black, except one part of their Bellies which are white; they smell so strong of Musk, that it overcomes those that carry them.
[Sidenote: Serpents.]
Amongst the Brambles breed also Serpents of a green colour, two yards long, and an Inch thick, feeding on Locusts and Birds, which they take in their Nests, but do no hurt to Mankind.
[Sidenote: The Sassafras Tree.]
But Tobago boasts chiefly of the Sassafras-Tree, which resembles the Pine-Tree, hath a firm and streight Body, and on the top Boughs spread like a Crown, the Bark of a dark colour and smooth, and smelling very sweet; the Leaves thin, notch’d, and of a deep Green, have also a delicate smell; the thinnest Roots appear above the Ground, and are exceeding good to cure green Wounds, stoppings and shortness of Breath occasion’d by Colds.
The Tobacco, by the Caribbeeans call’d Y-ouli, Planted among the Fruit-Trees, grows very plentifully here; it shoots up from a stringy Root, bitter of taste, with a thick Stalk, which shoots out Boughs with great Leaves, woolly underneath, and bears a kind of Violet Flower, which when dry’d, are succeeded by little Cods full of black Seed; and to prevent the over-growing of it, they cut off the top of the main Stalk.
[Sidenote: The Bird Colibry.]
The Bird Colibry, which is exceeding beautiful, makes his Nest under the Tobacco-Leaves.
A company of Townsmen of Walcheren, having a Grant from the States of the United Provinces, sent a Colony to Tabago; but they being scarce two hundred in all, were for the most part destroy’d by the Caribbeeans; the rest weak or sickly, fearing the same Entertainment, sought to save themselves; so that the Island has not formerly been frequented but by the French from Martinico, and Guadalupe, who for some time came over onely to catch Turtles and Lamantins there.
The Caribbeeans also either in their March against, or Return from the Arovages, Landed here for necessary Provisions; But of late the Lord Lampsen hath Setled a Plantation in this desolate Island.
SECT. XXVIII. St. Christophers.
[Sidenote: Situation of St. Christophers Island.]
St. Christophers, a pretty distance from Tobago, receiv’d its Denomination from Christopher Columbus, invited thereto by the shape of a great Mountain, having as it were another lesser on one of its Shoulders, being fancy’d to represent the Figure of the suppos’d Giant Christopher, who is reported to have carry’d our Saviour in the appearance of a little Child on his Shoulders through a deep Sea.
This Island lying seventeen Degrees and twenty five Minutes Northward of the Equinoctial Line, hath twenty five Leagues in circumference.
The Soil light and sandy, refuses not the production of divers sorts of Fruits common amongst us.
In the middle of the Island rises a high Mountain, out of which run fresh Streams, that sometimes swell so high with sudden Rains, that they drown all the Countrey near them.
[Sidenote: The Division of the Island into several Wards.]
This Island being jointly the Plantation of both English and French, was divided into four Wards, two whereof have been long since in possession of the French, and the other two in possession of the English, strangely divided one from another; for the English in one Ward cannot go to the other without troubling the French; and so on the contrary: the English have more Rivers and People, the French more plain Land, fitter for Cultivation, and Forts furnish’d with Guns and Soldiers. At the Entrances of the Paths which lead into the several Wards stand Watch-houses, where Sentinels, or Watch-men stand daily in their turns.
In a Bay of the Sea they found a brave Salt-pit, from whence a sandy Cliff runs so far into the Ocean, a that some have swum from the end thereof over to the Island Nevis.
A Silver Mine hath been long since discover’d on this Island, in which the English and French claim equal Interest, but neither Party make any benefit of it for want of Miners.
The high Mountains, the Springs of boyling sulphurous Water, and brambly Woods, hinder all passage through the middle of the Island: The Ground runs more and more sloaping to the Sea-side, and is divided into several High-ways, along which stand convenient Houses, cover’d with red or glaz’d Slate, shaded with Trees, and environ’d with pleasant Gardens, to which there is a delightful Prospect from the Fields, of the green Tobacco-Leaves, the yellow Sugar-Canes, Ginger, and Potato’s.
[Sidenote: Basse-Terre the chief Town belonging to the French.]
Besides the scatter’d Buildings, the French have built a compleat Town near the convenientest Harbor of their Quarter, call’d Basse-Terre, where the Merchants dwell in fair Houses built of Brick and Free-stone; whither all sorts of People bring their Commodities, and Truck their European Goods for such as St. Christophers produceth. All manner of Trades and Handicrafts live also in this Town, and a Court of Judicature is kept every Week. The Church built of Free-stone, is cover’d with the aforesaid red Slate, and was formerly Govern’d by the Capuchins; but they being dismiss’d Anno 1646. the Government was given to the Jesuits and Carmelites; who also built themselves other stately Edifices: but the Jesuit Henrick du Vivier was the first who bore the chiefest Command over all.
The Sick that have not sufficient Means to maintain them, have an Hospital appointed, where all Necessaries are provided for them; and to which is added a School for the bringing up of poor Children.
[Sidenote: Description of the Castle.]
But the chiefest Structure is the Castle, on the building whereof the Lord Poincy spar’d no Cost; it is built half a French Mile from the Sea at the Foot of a high Mountain, shadowed with great Trees. In the Way thither stand the Houses of the prime Officers; and a long Walk of Orange and Lemmon-Trees leads to a large Court before the Front of the Castle it self, which is built square with Bricks and Free-stone three Stories high; and the Entrance into it is ascended by a large pair of Stairs; near the Gate which opens to the West, stand great Stone Cisterns, into which they receive the Water through Pipes laid under Ground; the Chambers and Halls are very lightsom and high, and the Walls of them adorn’d with Cedar; a flat Terrace on the top yields a pleasant Prospect all over the Countrey; the Windows in the Front look open not onely upon the Orange Walk, but also upon several delightful Plantations of Sugar-Canes and Ginger.
Westward appear several Mountains, whose high Heads are invested with ever-flourishing Trees; and between the Palace and those Mountains a very large and stately Garden, full of all manner of Flowers and other delightful Plants, as well those commonly known amongst us, as those peculiar to that part of the World; in the middle thereof stands a Fountain, deriving its Source from the Foot of a neighboring Hill.
The Winds which blow from the Hills, and especially those cool Blasts daily coming out of the East, so tempers the hot Climate, that it becomes very tolerable.
When any News arrives here of the French Conquests in Europe, they sound the Trumpets on the top of the Castle, and the Standards and Ensigns formerly taken by the Governor in the Field, are hung out of the Windows.
On one side of the Castle stands a Chappel, and somewhat farther on a rising Plain, a row of Houses, inhabited by certain Retainers to the Governor, and is call’d Angola. The Offices and Lodgings for the Governor’s Servants are built of Brick, about the Castle, which is fortifi’d with five Sconces, whereon are planted several Guns.
The Governor keeps nine hundred Slaves, and a hundred French-men, to work in his three Sugar-Mills, to till his Ground, and for his Houshold-Service.
Several French Gentlemen have also built many fair Houses here; amongst which the chiefest are those on which Poucy, Treval, Benevent, Girand, Auber, de la Roziere, de St. Andant, de l’ Esperance, and de la Loche spent great sums of Money.
The English also are not much inferior to them in their Counties.
[Sidenote: The English Plantations in this Island.]
Their Churches are five in all; first on the Point of the Palm-Tree stands a fair Church; a second near the great Road, below the English Governor’s House; a third at the Sandy Point; which are all well built, and large enough for a considerable Congregation; the other two at the Inlet Cayoune are short of the three first. The Ministers thereof receiv’d formerly their Benefices from the Bishop of Canterbury, in Cromwell’s time from the Tryers, as they were call’d; but of late, since the King’s Restauration, from the Bishop of Canterbury again.
The best Houses belonging to the English were built by Mr. Warner, Mr. Rich, Mr. Evrard, and Col. Geffreyson all successively Governors of the Place.
[Sidenote: Their success at their first Landing.]
It was in the Year 1625. that the English and French jointly (Desnambuc Commanding the French, and Thomas Warner the English) Landed on this Island of St. Christophers, at a certain time when the Caribbeeans, perswaded by their Boyez to destroy all Strangers, were ready up in Arms, but they met with such Entertainment, that they soon lost their Courage, and yielded possession to the Assailants: Not long after which Desnambuc and Warner went (the one to Paris, and the other to London) to inform their Kings of the Condition of St. Christophers, and to raise a Company which might promote the Planting of it: Both attain’d their Desires, and had fresh Assistance given them; for both Kings favor’d the Design, in regard of the good Conditions that were propos’d to those that should go Undertakers thither: And to prevent all Contentions between the English and French, they made Boundaries on each side; but Hunting, Harbors, Fishing, Mines, Trees for Wainscoting, and the like, were to remain in common; and each was to assist the other. The English Plantation increased daily more than the French; having constant Supplies from the Company in London; when as on the contrary, the Merchants at Paris grew weary, being desirous first to have a Return for what they had already spent, though the Countrey was not yet Manur’d: wherefore Desnambuc going thither himself, made the Company understand that they could not possibly expect to receive a Return, unless the Countrey were Planted with Tobacco, Indigo, Ginger, and Sugar, which requir’d both Time and People. But whilst the Business seem’d to go on prosperously, a great Accident hapned which threw down the Work to nothing: for the Spanish King set out a Fleet within the fore-mention’d Year, of one and thirty Gallions, three Galeasses, and four Pinnaces, with seventy five hundred Men, under the Command of Frederick de Toledo, Emanuel de Mineses, and John Fajardo, from Cadiz, when before the Island St. Jago there lay at the same time twenty two Portuguese Galleys, fourteen Carvils, carrying four thousand Men, Commanded by Antonio Nunnez Barreio, and Francisco de Almeida, who joyning with the Spaniards, took the City St. Salvador, and went about wholly to chase out of the Caribbee Isles all the English and French: in which Attempt nine English Ships lying before Nevis, were all taken by Toledo, who Sail’d within Cannon-shot of St. Christophers, Commanded at that time by the French Captain Rossey, the Forts cast up by the English and French not being stor’d with Provisions nor Ammunition, and consequently no way able to endure a Siege, and the less, because the Works were not quite finish’d; nevertheless Desnambuc immediately drew up his Soldiers to the Low-land, where he lay Intrench’d along the Coast, to prevent the Enemies Landing; but Rossey suffer’d the Spaniards to Land without the least Resistance: whereupon young Du Parquet Sallying out of the Sconces, fell valiantly upon the first Company, but being forsaken by his Men, was run down by the Multitude and kill’d: In the mean time all their Sloops full of Men Landed, insomuch that Rossey fearing to be surrounded, left his Trench and went up into the High-lands, whereby the Spaniards became Masters of the Fort, but did not pursue their Victory, as suspecting that the French might lie in Ambuscade in the next Wood; and indeed they suspected not in vain, for the French having undermin’d their Forts, had laid Gun-powder in some of the Cellars, which firing, blew up very many of the Spaniards, whilst Desnambuc Embarquing himself, sav’d those which were not slain by the Enemy’s Sword. Mean while the English relying on the League between the King of England and the Spaniard, made no Resistance, (notwithstanding they were inform’d that Frederick Toledo had quite ruin’d the French Plantation, and put them all to the Sword) but sent Agents to Toledo, to put him in mind of the League between Spain and England, which he not taking notice of, alledg’d, That Pope Alexander the Sixth, when a Controversie arose concerning the new Discoveries in the East and West, between the Crowns of Castile and Portugal, had determin’d that Castile had sole Right to the Western World, and therefore that St. Christophers, being a part of the Western World, according to the Pope’s Gift, belong’d to his Master Philip; and insisting upon that Allegation, he commanded them to quit their Right to the Place; to which purpose he restor’d them six of the nine Ships taken at Nevis, on Condition that they should immediately set Sail for England, onely those whom the six Vessels were not able to carry, were permitted to stay on the Island till the next opportunity: After which Toledo weighing Anchor, was scarce out of sight, when the English began to take new Courage, and gathering together to repair their ruin’d Works as well as possibly they could with what Forces they had left; for besides those who went for England in the six Ships, being near two thousand, the Spanish Admiral took six hundred choice English, which he distributed amongst his Fleet; whilest Desambuc suffer’d a great deal of hardship, not onely through ill Weather at Sea, but also for want of Provisions; Having during this time been on the Islands St. Martin, Montserrat, and Antego, thinking to have possess’d himself of some or other of them in stead of St. Christophers, but not finding such a fruitful Soil, and convenient Situation, as what he had been forc’d to forsake, he was not forward to fix there, but rather judg’d it convenient to enquire concerning the Condition of St. Christophers, and at last being inform’d by a Ketch, that the Enemy was gone to Havana, and the English were busie in Tilling their Lands, he return’d to his old Station; where nevertheless their Endeavors to repair what was ruin’d, had been in vain, by reason of the scarcity of Provisions, and want of other Necessaries, had not in their greatest extremity some Netherland Vessels arriving there, furnish’d them with Provisions, Clothes, and other Necessaries, on bare promises of payment: But not long after growing rich with Tobacco, Sugars, Ginger, and Indigo, they made Satisfaction to all their Creditors, and at last attain’d to the Condition before mention’d.
In the late War between Us and the Dutch, the French taking advantage of our Engagement, endeavor’d to destroy our Plantations there, and to make themselves Masters of the whole Island; but the Matter being at last brought to some Agreement, Sir Charles Wheeler hath been very lately sent over thither by His Majesty to re-settle Affairs there, and order the Capitulations between the French and English.
CHAP. XIX. The Islands Sotavento, and the Isle Trinidado.
In the Division we found to be made of the Islands that lie between Florida and New Spain, and Southern America, the last are the Isles of Sotavento, which are reckon’d to be these three, Margareta, Cubagua, and Tabago, but the last is by most accounted, and hath been mention’d amongst the Caribbees.
[Sidenote: Situation of Margareta.]
Margareta, so call’d from the abundance of Pearls (of which the Spanish Appellation comes near the Latine Margaritæ) found there by the Spaniards at their first Discovery, lies about the twelfth Degree of Northern Latitude over against the Main Land of Cumana, from which it is distant about seven Leagues: It is accounted sixteen Leagues long, and half as much in breadth, and was discover’d by Columbus in his third Voyage in the Year of our Lord 1498. and was at first in great reputation, in regard of the rich Pearl-fishing upon its Coasts, wherein the Spaniards (more favorable it seems to the Natives of this Place than usual, because of their readiness to discover their Treasures) employ’d Negro’s, brought from the Coast of Guinee, whom by severe Punishments inflicted, they forc’d to such excessive Labor, that many of them, though excellent Divers, were drown’d, others either devour’d, or lam’d by the ravenous great Fish thereabouts, and by destroying the very Seed through their insatiable greediness after Pearl, brought the Trade of Pearl-fishing in a short time to a very small Account, in respect of what it might have been, had it been well husbanded. Nor hath this Island of late Years been much frequented, only in the Year 1601. Captain Parker with a Fleet of English put on Shore here, and took as many Prisoners as he had five hundred pounds of Pearl for the Ransom of, and at his coming away took a Ship he met from off the Coast of Angola, with three hundred and seventy Negro’s aboard her, who were going to be sold for Slaves.
The Soil is not unfruitful, bringing forth several sorts of Fruit, and store of Maiz, and probably if improv’d, would as well bear Wheat, and other usual kinds of Grain; but there is great want of Water, which the Inhabitants are troubled to fetch from the neighboring Continent.
[Sidenote: Towns and Places of chief note.]
The Places of chief note, are 1. Monpater, a Fort built by the Spaniards in a Nook of the Island, lying Eastward to secure the Pearl-fishing Trade, and to defend the Town where the Governor resides, as also the Treasurer of the King of Spain’s Customs of Pearl, which have been formerly valu’d at 50000 l. yearly.
2. El valle de Santa Lucia, two Leagues from this Town, and as much from the Sea, a Spanish Colony.
3. Macanao, the onely noted Place belonging to the Natives.
SECT. II. Cubagua.
[Sidenote: Situation of Cubagua.]
Cubagua lies South-West of Margarita, about the eleventh Degree of North-Latitude, a League or thereabouts distant from Margarita, and six Leagues from the nearest Continent, and about three Leagues in circumference. This is also a very great Place for Pearl-fishing, the benefit whereof hath been so considerable, that the King of Spain’s Fifths are said to have amounted some years to fifteen thousand Ducats; but otherwise of a poor and barren Soil, not onely destitute of Water, but of Fruit, Grain, Herbage, and all manner of Cattel and eatable Beasts, except a few lean Coneys; nevertheless, in respect of the Pearl-fishing Trade, the Spaniards have Planted here a Colony, which they call’d New Cadiz, having plenty of Provisions brought them from the adjoining Coasts, and soon after their first Planting grew in a short time so powerful, that they became Masters of one of the best Ports of those Seas, call’d Maracapana Venezuela; but upon an Alarm of the Salvages of Cumana, for a while deserted the Island, and betook themselves to Hispaniola; from whence nevertheless being remanded back with fresh Supplies, under the Command of James de Castellon, they soon re-instated themselves in their former Plantation, and made it more strong and flourishing than before; in which state they remain’d as long as the Pearl-fishing Trade continu’d, but that decaying, the splendor also of this Colony declin’d: so that at present the onely thing which makes the Place remarkable, is a Fountain on the East part of the Island, not far from the Sea, yielding a liquid bituminous Water, of singular use in Medicine, and sometimes found floating on the Sea at two or three Leagues distance.
[Sidenote: The Island Coche.]
About four Leagues distant from Cubagua there is an Island call’d Coche, about three Miles in compass; It was discover’d in the Year 1529. and was formerly little less considerable for Pearl-fishing than the other two.
SECT. III. Trinidado.
[Sidenote: Situation of Trinidado.]
The Island of Trinidado was first discover’d by Columbus, Anno 1447. in his third Voyage, and by him so call’d, as some guess, from its three Points or Promontories; but that seems not so probable, in regard it is otherwise call’d La Trinidad, or Insula Sanctæ Trinitatis, and therefore is likely to have been denominated upon a religious Account: It lieth nine Degrees or thereabouts distant from the Line, at the Mouth of the River Orenoque, and is separated from the Coast of Paria, over against which it lies by a Straight that is three Miles over, and which for the dangerousness of passing it, Columbus, the first Discoverer of it, call’d Bocca del Draco; the length thereof from the most Southern Angle call’d Punta del Andrada, to the North-East, call’d Punta del Galera, is reckon’d twenty five Leagues, (those that reckon fifty, may be suppos’d to mistake Leagues for Miles) and the breadth about eighteen.
[Sidenote: Chief Commodities of the Island.]
The Air of this Place is so impure, that it is accounted the unwholsomest Island of all the Indies; nevertheless the Soil is not unfertile, as bringing forth Sugar-Canes, Cotton, Maize, Tobacco of the best kind, with other Commodities of the general growth of the West-Indies, besides store of good Fruit and Cattel; and one part of the Island call’d Terra de Bea, produceth great plenty of Pitch, but not of the best kind; and there have been discover’d several Veins of Gold and other Metals.
The Natives, some say, were antiently call’d Cairi, or Carai, and were distinguish’d into several Clans or Tribes, each under the Government of a Casique, or petty Prince; but most of them dreading the Spaniards Cruelty, deserted the Island, and Setled themselves in Guiana; and at present both this Place, Guiana, and El Dorado, have of Custom one and the same Governor, whose Place of Residence here is St. Josephs, the chief, if not onely Town of the Island; it stands Southward upon the Carone. Here most of that Tobacco is made, which is sold amongst us for Spanish. In the Year 1595. Sir Walter Raleigh possess’d himself of it, being then but a petty Village of about forty Houses, and took Prisoner the then Governor Antonio Berreo, who, in all probability, to ingratiate himself with him, gave him some light towards the discovery of Guiana.
[Sidenote: Tabago.]
On the North-East of Trinidado, and not above eight Miles distant from it, lies the Island of Tabago, which hath been already treated of, as one of the Caribbees, though some will have it one of the Sotavento; it is otherwise call’d New Walcheren, from a Town of that Name in Zealand, from whence a Colony of Netherlanders was sent to Plant it.
[Sidenote: Virgin Gorda.]
Amongst others of the small obscure Islands hereabouts, is Virgin Gorda, which is sometimes reckon’d amongst the Caribbee Islands; but since there is nothing considerable to be spoken of it, it is sufficient that it hath been mention’d, though not punctually in its proper place.
CHAP. XX. California.
[Sidenote: California how distinguish’d.]
Having before made mention of California, as it is by some taken for that large portion of Northern America which lies most Southward, and also utmost West of all that is known of the New World, and having treated of those several Provinces which are generally reckon’d to be comprehended in it, (excepting California strictly taken, as it is generally granted to be an Island) viz. Quivira, Cibola, and Nova Albion, lying on the Continent (though there want not those who make Nova Albion onely the North part of California) we shall close up our Discourse of these Islands that lie Northward of the Equinoctial Line with the aforesaid California, specially so call’d, which was by many thought and describ’d to be but a Peninsula, or half Island, by reason that the Bay which divides it from Quivira and New Gallicia, towards the North runneth much narrower than it doth Southerly, which made them think, that somewhere or other at the North it was joyn’d to the Main Land of America; But later Discoveries, as hath been said, have found it to be a perfect Island, and altogether separate from the Continent: for about the Year 1620. some Adventurers beating upon those Coasts Northward, accidentally, and before they were aware, fell upon a Straight, the Waters whereof ran with such a Torrent and violent Course, that they brought them into Mar Vermiglio, whether they would or no, and before they knew it, and by that means discover’d that California was an Island, and that the Waters which were observ’d to fall so violently into that Sea towards the North, were not the Waters of any River emptying it self into the Bay from the Main Land, as was formerly thought, but the Waters of the North-West Sea it self, violently breaking into the Bay, and dividing it wholly from the Continent: It lieth North and South, extending it self in a vast length, full twenty Degrees of Latitude, viz. from twenty two to forty two; but the breadth nothing answerable: The most Northern Point of it is call’d Cape Blanche; that to the South, Cape St. Lucas, memorable for that rich and gallant Prize which Captain Cavendish, in the Year 1587. being then in his Voyage about the World, took from the Spaniards near to this Place. As for the Island it self, it is at present little, if at all inhabited by the Spaniards; whether it be that they want Men to furnish new Plantations, or that they find no matter of invitation and encouragement from the Countrey, or perhaps that the access thither be not so easie: for ’tis reported to be wonderfully well peopled by the Natives, and that there were found onely upon the Coasts and along the Shore of Mar Vermiglio, twenty or twenty three Nations, all of different Languages; though from the particular Narrations that have been made of the Voyages of several eminent Persons into these Parts, it appears that the Spaniards have taken great pains in the discovery thereof, and also from the several Spanish Names of Places, that they have had Plantations here formerly, however neglected at present.
[Sidenote: The Customs and Manners of the Natives.]
The Countrey is abundantly well stor’d with Fish and Fowl, as appears partly by the Natives, who take a huge pride in making themselves gay with the Bones of the one, with which they load their Ears, and sometimes their Noses also; and with the Feathers of the other, which ordinary People wear onely sticking about their Wastes; but Great Persons, and such as will be fine indeed, beset their Heads strangely with them, and have commonly one Bunch of them bigger than ordinary hanging down behind them like a Tail.
Having no knowledge of the true God, they worship what the Devil will have them, that is, the Sun, attributing to it onely the increase of their Plants, healthful Seasons, and most of the other good things they enjoy, or are sensible of.
[Sidenote: Their Government.]
Their Government is said to be onely Oeconomical, each Father ordering the Affairs of his Family apart, without subjection to any other Superior; yet so well manag’d, that they live in good Peace one with another; not without many good Laws and Customs, viz. That they allow but one Wife to one Man; That they punish Adultery with Death; That they suffer not Maids to talk or converse with Men till they be Married; That Widows may not Marry till they have Mourn’d at least one half year for their Husbands deceased; and divers others of like nature, which perhaps, if the truth were known, do more properly belong to the Natives of Utopia, or New Atlantis, than to these of California.
[Sidenote: Places of note.]
The Places therein, as yet observ’d, are onely upon the Sea-coasts, 1. The Capes of St. Clara and St. Lucas, the one at the South-East end of the Island, looking towards New Gallicia, the other at the South-West, looking into the Sea, and towards Asia.
2. St. Cruce, so nam’d from its being first discover’d on Holy-Rood-Day, being a large and convenient Haven, not far from Cape St. Clara.
3. Cabo de las Playas, so call’d from a company of little bare Hillocks appearing from the Sea, and is more within the Bay.
4. Cabo Baxo, so term’d, as lying towards the bottom of the Gulf.
5. St. Andrews, another convenient Haven upon an Island of the same Name.
6. St. Thomas, an Island at the Mouth of the Gulf or Bay, of about twenty five Leagues in compass, rising Southerly with an high mountainous Point, under which is a convenient Road for Shipping, and twenty five Fathoms of Water.
On the other side of the Island, towards the Main Sea, there is 1. St. Abad, a good Haven, and almost surrounded with a pleasant and fruitful Countrey.
2. Cape Trinidado, a noted Promontory.
3. Cape de Cedras, so call’d (together with a small Island near it) from the store of Cedars growing thereabouts.
4. Enganno. 5. Puebla de las Canoas, so nam’d from the abundance of those little Boats which the Americans generally use, and do call Canoos, whereof perhaps some store are made there.
6. Cabo de Galera, from its resemblance to a Rat.
It is believ’d there are many more Promontories and Bays on both sides of this Island, besides Rivers and Islets, yet not nam’d, and altogether unknown. Moreover Dr. Heylin hath well observ’d, that those above-mention’d are the Names onely of Places, and not of Towns and Villages, though doubtless there must needs have been some scatter’d Houses, built formerly by the Spaniards in so many Expeditions.
[Sidenote: Cortez the first Discoverer of these Parts.]
The first Discoverer of these Parts was Ferdinando Cortez, who having in the Year 1534. set out two Ships to that purpose from St. Jago, a Haven of New Spain, and not finding the Success answerable to his Expectation, went next Year himself in Person, and pass’d a good way up the Gulf, but for want of Provisions was forc’d to return without having done any thing to the purpose.
In 1539. one Francisco, a Companion of Cortez in the former Expedition, Set out upon his own Charges, and having Coasted all about, both upon the Eastern and Western Shores, he at last Landed, but not without notable opposition from the Natives, who with much clamour, and many antique Gestures set upon his Men so furiously with Stones and Arrows, that they had met with a shrew’d Repulse, had it not been for the Valor of their Auxiliaries, the Mastiff Dogs, which it seems they us’d to carry along with them in those kind of Voyages; but at last he got footing so far, that he took possession in the Name of the King of Spain with the usual Formalities; and following the Example of Columbus set up a Cross in the Place for a Memorial and Testimony of his having been there.
[Sidenote: Marco de Nisa his Relation of these Parts.]
Much about the same time Marco de Nisa a Franciscan, undertaking a Voyage into these Parts, reported Wonders at his Return, of the plenty of golden Mines, stately Cities, set out with magnificent Buildings, the very Gates whereof were enrich’d with Turquoises, and other Precious Stones, and whose meanest Inhabitants went glittering in Gold and Mother of Pearl, and of the flourishing Condition of the Kingdoms of Acu, Tonteac, and Marata; whereupon the Governor of New Gallicia was sent by the then Vice-Roy of Mexico, with great hopes of bringing back a Confirmation of these Reports; but whether out of spite to be deceiv’d in his Expectation, or having real cause so to do, he represented all things as mean and despicable, as the Fryer had proclaim’d them rich and glorious.
[Sidenote: De Alarcon his Voyage.]
The next that went upon this Design was Ferdinando de Alarcon, who is reported to have Sail’d many Leagues up a River call’d Buena Guia, and there to have receiv’d Homage of Naguacatus, one of the Heads of the Californian Tribes.
[Sidenote: Cabrillo his Expedition.]
One more Attempt was made in the Year 1642. by Roderico Cabrillo, who discover’d the Island of St. Luke, and another call’d The Island of Possession; and this was the last we hear of that thought it worth while to go an Undertaker to these Coasts, and ever since all Undertakings hither have been so wholly laid aside, that what-ever was once discover’d in these Parts, seems rather to be lost and forgotten, than any way improv’d.
As for Nova Albion, whereas many determine it to be onely the utmost Northern part of California, though it doth not absolutely appear to be so from the Relation of Sir Francis Drake’s Discovery of it, we judge it agreeable to Method and Decorum not wholly to omit the mention of it in this place, though it hath been already spoken of, and the aforesaid Relation deliver’d at large amongst the rest of those Provinces of largely-taken California, which were taken for granted to be upon the Continent.
[Sidenote: Drakes Account of the Countrey.]
Drake and his Company brought home this Description of the Countrey and its Inhabitants, viz. That the Countrey was exceedingly well stor’d with Deer, Grazing up and down the Hills by thousands in a company; That the Men generally went naked all over, the Women using onely a piece of a Mat, or some such thing instead an Apron; That their Houses were built onely of Turf and Osier, yet so wrought together, that they serv’d very well to keep out the Cold; in the midst of it was their Hearth where they made their Fire, and lay all round about it together upon several Beds of Bull-Rushes. What their Towns Were, or whither they had any, is altogether unknown.
The Third Book, CONTAINING A DESCRIPTION OF PERUANA OR, Southern America.
CHAP. I.
[Sidenote: Situation and Form of Southern America.]
Having compleated our Description of Mexicana, or Northern America, being that great Peninsula which lies Northward of the Isthmus, or Straight of Darien, together with all the Islands on the North side of the Equinoctial Line, we come now to the Southern Part, otherwise call’d Peruana, from Peru the chief Kingdom thereof, being the other great Peninsula, which lies Southward of the aforesaid Straight: It is generally resembled to the form of a Pyramid revers’d; the Basis whereof, that is to say, the more Southerly parts of it towards Magellanica and the Straights, extend themselves largely both East and West, becoming more sharp and streight towards the North, and those parts by which it is joyn’d to Mexicana: in the whole it is suppos’d to contain a Circuit of seventeen thousand Miles at least, and is water’d with four of the greatest Rivers of the World, besides abundance of lesser Streams, which issuing from the Andes and other Mountains of the Countrey, do run from all Parts both into the North and South Sea, much fertilizing the Countreys through which they pass; the four principal are these following:
[Sidenote: The chief Rivers thereof.]
1. Orellana, so call’d from the first Discovery thereof by Franciscus de Orellana, otherwise the River of Amazons, from a Generation of warlike Women, who (as the Tradition goes) inhabited certain Countreys lying upon the Banks thereof. This riseth in the Province of Peru, and runneth a Course of little less than five thousand Miles, discharging it self at last into the North Sea, through a Channel, as some say, of threescore Leagues broad, and yet with such a violent Current or Stream, that it is said to keep its natural colour and taste almost thirty Miles in the Sea.
2. Orenoque, by some call’d Raliana, from Sir Walter Raleigh, who endeavor’d to discover it, a River of the Province of Guiana, whose Head or Spring is not yet discover’d: It is said to be Navigable a thousand Miles together by the tallest Ships, and no less than two thousand by Pinnaces and smaller Vessels, and dischargeth it self likewise into the North Sea by sixteen several Channels or Mouths, making thereby several Islands; some whereof are said to be of good bigness, and to lie at a distance of a hundred Miles or more one from the other.
3. Maragnon, a River of a yet larger Course than any of the former, being, as ’tis said, no less than six thousand Miles from its Head, which is out of the Andes in Peru, to its Fall, which is likewise into the North Sea about Cape Blanco, by a Channel of seventy Leagues in breadth.
4. Rio de la Plata, otherwise call’d Paraguay, a River of two thousand Miles Course, and falling as the rest into the North Sea, by a Channel of threescore Miles over, and about thirty Degrees Southward of the Line, towards the Straights of Magellane.
[Sidenote: The Mountains Andes.]
The Andes, or Mountains before mention’d being the most noted, and biggest of all America, and indeed of the whole World, and thought by Cortesius to be the same with Sephar, spoken of in the tenth Chapter of Genesis, run above a thousand Leagues in length from Timama, a Town of New Granada in the Province of Popayan, and are in the narrowest place about twenty Leagues broad; and also of equal heighth with, if not higher than Caucasus it self: the Ascent to them is unpassable, except in very few places, by reason of craggy Precipices, and wild overgrown pathless Woods, serving onely for a shelter to Serpents and other poysonous Animals, which are there so numerous, that a whole Army of one of the Kings of Peru is reported to have been destroy’d by them; and what-ever People there are inhabiting in any of these Woods and Fastnesses, must needs be in the very utmost degree of rude and brutish salvageness.
Some divide Southern America into Peruviana and Brasiliana: Peruviana they subdivide into Terra Firma and Peru; Brasiliana into Brasile and Paraguay: But the most receiv’d and commodious Division is into these particular Provinces following, all of them wealthy and large, viz. 1. Castella Aurea, or Golden Castile, 2. Nova Granada, or The New Kingdom, as they call it. 3. Peru, specially so call’d. 4. Chile. 5. Paraguay. 6. Brasile. 7. Guiana. 8. Lastly Paria, with some lesser Islands adjoyning to all or most of these Provinces, and commonly reckon’d as part of them.
CHAP. II. Castella Aurea, otherwise call’d Terra Firma.
[Sidenote: Description of Castella Aurea.]
Castella de Oro, as the Spaniards call it, or Golden Castile, taketh up all the rest of the Isthmus, or Straight of Darien, which hath not been yet spoken of, being bounded Eastward, and to the North-East, with the Atlantick Ocean; and on the West with Mare del Zur, and some part of Veragua; Southward it hath the new Kingdom of Granada. It is call’d sometimes Terra Firma, because it was one of the first parts of firm Land which the Spaniards touch’d upon, after they had pass’d so many Islands, as seem’d for some time to block up, and bar them from the Continent of America: It is subdivided into these inferior Provinces or Countreys, viz. 1. Panama. 2. Darien. 3. Nova Andaluzia. 4. St. Martha. 5. Lastly, the little Province De la Hacha.
[Sidenote: Rivers.]
The chief Rivers of the Province of Panama are 1: Chagre, as it was antiently call’d, but afterwards from the great number of Crocodiles that harbor in it, Rio de Lagartos, falling into the North Sea between Nombre de Dios and Porto Bellano. 2. Sardinilla. 3. Sardina. 4. Rio de Colubros, so call’d from the abundance of Snakes breeding thereabouts. 5. Rio de Comagre, which falls into the same Sea. 6. Chepo, famous in times past for its Gold-Sands. 7. Rio de Balsas, whose Banks are shaded with good Timber-Trees. 8. Rio de Congo, which falls into St. Michaels Bay.
SECT. II. Panama.
[Sidenote: Description of Panama.]
Panama, commonly call’d The District, or Circle of Panama, is bounded Eastward with the Gulf, or Bay of Urraba, by which it is separated from the rest of the Continent of this Southern part of America; on the West it hath Veragua, one of the Provinces of Guatimala; being on both the other sides wash’d with the Sea: It is suppos’d to contain in length from Carthagena and Popayan, to the Confines of Veragua, about eighty or ninety Leagues, in breadth not above threescore in any part; and where it is narrowest, viz. betwixt the City of Panama and Nombre de Dios, if measur’d by a right Line, not above six or seven over from Sea to Sea. It lieth almost under the Equinoctial Line, but a few Degrees Northward of it, and therefore somewhat hot, and by the neighborhood of both Seas subject to a foggy and gross Air, in comparison of some other parts; so that it is not counted generally so healthful a Countrey, especially for Strangers, and in Summer-time.
[Sidenote: The antient Division of Panama.]
The antient Division of Panama, according to the Lordships of the Casiques that then Govern’d, were these following: Careta, Aila, Comagre, Chiam, Coyba, Chame, Chiru, Nata, Tobre, Trota, Haylia, Burica, and Escotia, where the South Sea with the Spring-Tides flowing over the Plains, at its return being hardned by the Sea, is turn’d into Salt; but as it hath always hapned in all other Countreys of the World, that with the alteration of Government, the Division of the Countrey, and the Names of Places have totally chang’d, so also here the antient Division of Regions and Territories must give place to the Modern.
[Sidenote: The Nature and Customs of the antient Inhabitants.]
The antient Inhabitants of these Parts were a very warlike People, the Women always accompanying their Husbands in the Wars. They us’d to hang on the tops of their Standards the Bones of their greatest Heroes, thereby to animate their Soldiers. Their Arms consisted of poysonous Arrows, Stone Swords, and Pikes made of the Palm-Trees. They also carried with them the Idol Chiapa, to whom they Offer’d living Children at the beginning of their Wars, and afterwards making Merry with the Flesh, anointed the Image with the Blood: Moreover, if they return’d home Conquerors, they spent several days in all manner of Debaucheries, as Drinking, Singing, Dancing, Cutting their Prisoners Throats, with their Blood also anointing their Image. But if they were conquer’d, then they invented new Offerings to reconcile themselves with their Idol.
[Sidenote: Towns and Places of chief note.]
The chief Towns and Places which the Spaniards inhabit here, are 1. Panama, the chief City of the Province, being also a Bishop’s See, which is Suffragan to the Arch-bishop of Lima, and the ordinary Residence of the Governor and Courts of Justice for these Parts; It is seated likewise upon the South Sea, and so near, that at High-water the Ships are said to Ride even under the Walls. Through this Town the Wealth both of Peru and Spain passeth once every Year; from Spain by Nombre de Dios and Porto Bello, from whence whatsoever Merchandise or other Commodities come from Spain, are Transported to Panama by Land, and from thence by Sea to all the Parts of Peru; and by Panama whatsoever comes from Peru, is sent into Spain: It hath commonly a strong Garrison of Soldiers in it, and is doubtless a Place otherwise well fortifi’d, being of so great importance. From the Haven Pericos three Ways lead to Panama, the first along a Bridge over a River, whose Banks are great Fortifications to the City, the rather because the River is deep, and next to it a Pool over-grown with Weeds. The Way from Nombre de Dios plain and without Woods, is wash’d by the Brook Levendero. The third runs along over a Stone Bridge and Champain Grounds, that extend from the Haven Pericos to the City. Eastward from Panama appear seven Royal Houses on a Rock, wherein the Courts of Judicature are kept. Five hundred Rods into the Sea lies an Island resembling a Half-Moon, and the Haven wherein the Ships when they unlade cast Anchor, there being else not Water enough for laden Barques, and all lie dry, the Tide being out: At the Mouth thereof stands a woodden Sconce. The Places Venta de Cruze, Chagre, Quebrada, and Ballano, are also fortifi’d against any Invasion, where else an Enemy might easily Land: But the strictest Watch is kept at the River Chagre, which Westward below Nombre de Dios falling into the Northern Ocean, brings the Ships up to Venta de Cruze, from whence a Way scarce five Leagues long leads to Panama. The Spanish Commodities consisting most in Meal, Oyl, Biskets, Cloth and Silk, are all brought from Nombre de Dios along the same Way; or else in Winter when they cannot stem the Current of the River Chagre, then they bring their Goods by Land, not without great danger of being taken by the run-away Negro’s, who set upon them out of the Woods with poyson’d Darts and Arrows; and as many Spaniards as they take, so many several ways they put them to death, because they formerly in the time of their Servitude were us’d with all imaginable Cruelties. The Provisions sold here at a reasonable Rate are Maiz, Peruan-Meal, Poultrey, Honey, Cattel, Swine, Oranges, Lemmons, Cabbage, and all manner of Garden Herbs or Plants. Round about the fore-mention’d Royal Houses lie Bulwarks, with a strong Castle on one side. A fair Cathedral denotes the Place to be a Bishop’s See: And the Franciscans, Dominicans, and Monks of the Order De la Merced, inhabit several fair Cloysters here. Two Leagues Westward is the Haven Pericos, which being secur’d from all Winds by three high Isles that lie before it, is the chief Harbor in which the Peruan Plate-Fleet (consisting most in small Barques) comes to an Anchor before they touch at Panama. The Countrey is for the most part Mountainous, and in many places sends forth stinking Damps out of muddy Pools; yet in some places are Savanna Grounds for Cattel to Graze in. The Air would also be more unhealthful, if it were not clear’d by the Winds which blow from the Sea. From July to October there fall continual Rains, mix’d with terrible claps of Thunder. The Inhabitants often recreate themselves in Hunting wild Hogs, with Nets made of the Brambles call’d Nequen or Henachen, and that after a strange manner: for they set on fire the Bushes all about the place where they suppose the Game to lie, which to shun the fire runs into their Nets; so that the same Bushes are both their shelter and destruction, as affording Material to make the Nets wherein they are taken. Besides other Birds the Woods also abound with Pheasants and Turtle-Doves; and amongst Beasts, those that carry their Young about them in a Bag, as also wildcats. The Sea abounds with Fish, and produces Crocodiles of a large size, by the Spaniards call’d Lagartos. The Trees are seldom without Leaves, but bear little or no Fruit.
2. Nombre de Dios, which hath broad Streets, high woodden Houses, and a fair Church: It extends from East to West along the Northern Ocean, in the middle of a great Wood on Moorish Ground, having a great Fen on the West; being situate under an unwholsom Climate, it hath occasion’d the death of many People. The Merchants which dwelt here had also Habitations in Panama, (the rest of the Houses being most of them Inns for Strangers) from whence as soon as they had gotten an Estate they went to Spain. The Countrey round about lies under Water in many places. The Oranges, Cassada-Roots, and the like, which grow here, occasion many Distempers to those that eat of them. In the Harbor, which hath on each side a Ridge of Rocks, on which lies decay’d Forts, the Sea is often-times so turbulent, that the Ships are forc’d to Ride at six Anchors apiece. Eastward from the City a fresh-Water River falls into the Haven, on whose Banks stand several Garden-Houses and Orchards. Anno 1595. Sir Francis Drake arriving here, found a Mill beyond the City; not far from which on a Hill stood a Watch-house, of which having made himself Master, he set fire on the Town Nombre de Dios, as also on all the Vessels that were in the Harbor. The original of the Name Nombre de Dios was on this occasion, viz. Diego Niquesa setting Sail with three Ships out of the Haven Carthagena to the Golden Countrey Veragua, was surpris’d by a violent Storm, in which two Ketches, Commanded by Lupus de Olano and Peter Umbria were driven out of sight, whilest he suffer’d shipwrack, and getting ashore, rang’d up and down in a desolate Countrey, where he found no other Food but Roots, till at last he met with Olano; when the Famine began to increase amongst them in such a nature, that being scarce able to carry their Arms, many of them were kill’d by the Inhabitants with poyson’d Arrows, insomuch that of seven hundred there remain’d scarce ninety: Niquesa shipp’d as many of them in a new Vessel which they had made as it could possibly carry, and promis’d to fetch the rest off from Veragua as soon as he had discover’d a Place fit to be inhabited: The first Place he Landed at was Puerto Bello; from whence being necessitated by the Indians who gather’d together to Retreat Aboard, not without the loss of several Men, he set Sail to the Promontory Mormor, beyond which he Anchor’d in a secure Haven; where, as he was going ashore he call’d to his Men, saying, Saltiamo in tierra al Nombre de Dios, that is, Let us Land in the Name of God, and calling up a Fort against the Assaults of the Natives, call’d it Nombre de Dios.
3. St. Philip, or Puerto Bello, so denominated by Christopher Columbus from its Haven lying along the North Sea, wonderful convenient and secure, by reason of the good Ground for Anchoring, and a Creek in the same, defended from all sorts of Winds; and which being surrounded with Woods, hath much over-flow’d Land about it, as also abundance of good Gravel for Ballast; for which and several other Reasons, the famous Architect Baptista Antonelli advis’d the Spanish King, to build this City for a Staple of Trade (in stead of Nombre de Dios, which was found unhealthy) having pitch’d upon an excellent Situation for it, viz. on a Plain at the Foot of a Hill, where there are three fresh Rivulets, meeting with a fruitful and hot Countrey: wherefore his Advice being taken, they first built a Fort at the Mouth of the Haven, put five Guns into the same to defend the new City, and on the Shore a strong Tower with eight Drakes: Moreover, the Rocks along the Shore, and close Woods about the Haven prevent the Landing of an Enemy: But at the very time that this City was just begun to be built, Sir Francis Drake having burnt Nombre de Dios, ran into the Haven Puerto Bello, where he found ten Houses, besides the Governors Palace, and a Castle whose Breast-works which the Spaniards had lately rais’d of Timber, Stone, and Earth, were all demolish’d by the English: But the Spaniards have since re-built the same, and fortifi’d the Haven, with two strong Castles, notwithstanding in the Year 1661. it was surpriz’d and taken by the English under the Command of Captain Parker, and the Governor Petro Melendez taken Prisoner.
4. Nata, commonly call’d St. Jago de Nata, situated on the West side of this Province, upon Mare del Zur, or The South Sea, about thirty Leagues distant from Panama, towards the Borders of Veragua.
5. Acla, a Town upon the same Coast, but lying South-East of Nombre de Dios: It was at first onely a Fort built by Peter de Arias, but afterwards grew up into a small City, of which at present there is nothing remaining but the remembrance of the famous Vasquez Nunnez, Beheaded by his Father-in-law Arias.
6. Lastly, La Crux Real, a few Leagues distant from Panama, for the most part inhabited by a sort of Negro’s call’d Simmerones.
Along the North Coast of Panama are two small woody Islands call’d Cattiva and Comagre, lying low in the Water; also the Isle De Pines, which rises high out of the Sea near the Main Land.
[Sidenote: The Isles of Pearls.]
On the Southern Coast are Isole de las Perlas, or The Isles of Pearls, about twenty five in number, but indeed rather Rocks than Islands, excepting two, viz. Tararequi and Del Rios where in former times the Indians took great store of Pearls, by diving for them to the bottom of the Sea; and they were esteem’d of greater value and excellence than those of Cubagua, and great profit was made of them by the Spaniards, till by their Cruelties exercis’d upon the Natives through excessive greediness, they depopulated the Islands, and lost that altogether of which before they were so insatiable: they are now onely inhabited by a few Moors and other Slaves, who keep Cattel there for their Masters.
[Sidenote: Captain Oxenham’s Expedition.]
It will not seem amiss to conclude our Description of Panama with a short Account of the English Captain John Oxenham’s Exploits in these Parts: He being incited by the Treasure which Sir Francis Drake fetch’d from hence, resolv’d to Steer for the Northern Coast of Panama, where he hal’d his Ship of a hundred and twenty Tun on Shore, and cover’d the same with Trees, buried his Guns, and march’d with two Field-Pieces and seven Men up into the Countrey, and was by the Indians conducted to a River which falls into the South Sea, where he built a Pinnace of forty five Foot long, and Sailing into the South Sea, Landed on Tararequi, one of the Islands of Pearls; where he soon after took a Peruan Barque with sixty thousand pieces of Gold, store of Wine and Bread, and the day following another which came from Lima, loaden with a hundred thousand Pound in Silver Bars, and some Pearls; with which being enrich’d he return’d to the Main: The Governor of Panama being inform’d of it, put a hundred Soldiers into four Barques, besides a considerable number of Negro Slaves; over which Juan de Ortego having the chief Command, was inform’d at Tararequi what Course the English had steer’d; whereupon he pursu’d them to the River whither they were gone, which falling with three Arms into the Sea, they could not have known which way the English went, unless they had seen some Feathers of Fowls driving in the Mouth of the least Branch, by which they judg’d that they were not far off; therefore Rowing up they found after four days Journey the Pinnace hal’d on Shore, and watch’d by six Men, who were order’d to stand Sentinel, whereof one being shot by the Spaniards, the other five fled; whom Ortega pursuing, found half a League from the Shore a Hut made of Boughs, wherein the Booty lay, which he speedily carried to his Barques; but Captain Oxenham inform’d hereof, fell with two hundred Indians upon the Spaniards, who having a Wood on their Backs made such advantage thereof, that eleven English were slain, and seven taken, and had not the rest fled, they had all been either kill’d or taken Prisoners: Those that were taken inform’d Ortega that they had been at difference amongst themselves about dividing the Booty, which was the reason of their staying so long: moreover, they discover’d where and how their Ship lay; all which the Governor of Panama writ to Nombre de Dios; from whence four Sail were immediately sent to find out the Ship and the buried Guns, as also to take all such English as they should find preparing of Boats or Barques, and bring them to Panama; whereupon very many were taken, who were all miserably slain, except a few Youths.
SECT. III. Darien.
[Sidenote: Description of Darien.]
Darien, which by some Authors not being thought considerable enough to make a distinct Province, is reckon’d one and the same with, or at least part of, Panama, hath on the North the District or Circle of Panama; on the South, the new Kingdom of Granada; Eastward it is bounded with the Gulf of Urraba abovesaid, and some part of the River Darien, which giveth Name to the Province; and to the West, with the South Sea; of a more temperate Air by far than that of Panama, and a Soil so admirably fruitful and lusty, that they say Melons, Cucumbers, and generally all other Fruits of the Garden, are ripe and fit to gather within twenty days or less, after their first sowing, but very much infested by noxious Creatures, as Lyons, Leopards, wild Cats, Crocodiles, Serpents, and Bats, after whose Bitings a Man bleeds to death, unless he washes the Wound well with Sea-water, or stop it with hot Ashes; and no less by the unwholsomness of the Air, which is infested by the many stinking Damps that arise from the muddy Pools. The Inhabitants are sickly, and seeming generally to be troubled with the Yellow Jaundice, never attain to a great Age: they go naked, the Men onely covering their Privities with a Shell or Cotton-Cloth: The Women wear a Cloth which reaches from the Middle down to their Knees, but if Women of Quality, to their Feet.
[Sidenote: Sebastian and Antiqua, by whom built.]
The Spaniards have many years ago made themselves Masters of this Province of Darien, in which Alphonsus Fogeda built the City Sebastian, which was inhabited till a Spanish Knight call’d Ancisius, Anno 1510. built Antiqua, and made it a Bishop’s See, which by reason of the unwholsomness of the Place was remov’d to Panama, when Vasquez Nunnez discover’d the Southern Ocean, Anno 1590. because Antiqua lay on a low Ground between high Mountains, where the Sun burnt exceedingly, and the Way to the South Sea, being three Leagues from thence, it was very troublesom to convey Merchandise thither.
But a worse Accident befell the Town St. Cruiz, which being built by the Spanish Captain Peter de Arias, was ruin’d by the Indians.
[Sidenote: Rivers.]
The chief Rivers are 1. Darien, which gives Name both to the Province and the Provincial Town, and falls into the Gulf of Urraba, being a large Arm of the Sea, eight Leagues over at the Mouth thereof. 2. Rio de las Redas, which runs in like manner through the Province of Nova Andaluzia, and falls also into the same Gulf. So likewise doth 3. Rio de la Trepadera. 4. Corobaci. 5. Beru, chiefly remarkable upon this Consideration, that some curious Etymologists have endeavor’d to derive the Name of Peru from this River, by the alteration onely of the initial Letter.
[Sidenote: Places of chief note.]
The chief, and indeed the onely Town of this Tract is Darien, built as aforesaid by Encisus, a Spanish Adventurer, and by him call’d St. Maria Antiqua, and by others The Antique of Darien, being one of the first Towns that were built by the Spaniards on the firm Land; though there are who make mention of two other small Towns or Villages, the one nam’d at least, if not built by the Spaniards, viz. Los Angelos, scarce inhabited at present by any but the Salvages; the other an antient Town of the Natives, call’d Bizu.
SECT. IV. New Andaluzia.
[Sidenote: Description of New Andaluzia.]
Eastward of Darien and the Gulf of Urraba, lieth the Countrey of New Andaluzia, otherwise call’d Carthagena, from the Name of its principal City: On the East it hath the Countrey call’d St. Martha; on the North, the Main Ocean; and New Granada towards the South. It is for the most part a Mountainous Countrey, and full of Woods, which they say yield abundance of Rozen, Gums, and some very good Balsams; also a sort of Long-pepper, much sharper than that of East-India. But the Plains, by reason of much Rain, to which the Countrey is subject, especially for some times of the year, of but a spewy and cold Soil. The Spaniards at their first coming found it a rich Countrey, not so much from the Nature and Profits of the Soil (though it be said to have some Mines in it, and those of Gold) but by reason of a certain Opinion and Respect, which the Americans of these Parts are generally said to have born towards this Countrey, insomuch that they would be brought and buried there from other Places very remote; and according to the Custom of the Countrey, not without good store of Gold and other Jewels, according to the Quality and Condition of the Person that was buried; of which the Spaniards soon gain’d Intelligence, and in ransacking the Graves and Monuments of the Dead, are suppos’d to have found an infinite Mass of Treasure: but those Mines are long since exhausted.
[Sidenote: Nature and Customs of the antient Inhabitants.]
The Inhabitants of old suffer’d great prejudice by Tygers and Serpents; yet nevertheless this Countrey was very populous before the Spaniards arrival here; the Natives wore Cotton Aprons before, and Golden Rings about their Arms and Legs, as also Strings of Pearl, and the like. The Women here, as in the rest of these Parts, went with their Husbands into the Wars, and behav’d themselves valiantly, shooting poyson’d Arrows, insomuch that Martin Ambesus took a Maid, Anno 1509. who had kill’d twenty eight Spaniards.
[Sidenote: The Countrey Urraba.]
To the Province Carthagena belongs also the Countrey Urraba, which is so fruitful, that all kind of Spanish Trees and Seeds grow better here than in Spain: Besides which it hath its own Fruit, as also abundance of Pine and Palm-Trees, whose Leaves serve for Brooms. The Guaiana-Tree bears a sharp kind of Fruit like a Lemmon, the Guaravana a kind of Cittrons, the Mameisa a Fruit not unlike an Orange, but tasting like a Melon, and the Hovos a great Plum.
Their Gardens abound with the Root Batata, whose Leaves send forth several Strings, which over-spreading the Ground fasten in the Earth, and take new Roots; it is yellow without, and whitish within, and bears pale green Flowers, which at last turn to a Cod full of Seed. These Roots roasted in hot Ashes, exceed our European Turnip; and beaten and put in Water till it works over, makes a Drink, with which the Indians Drink and Carouse till they are Drunk.
[Sidenote: A strange Beast.]
Moreover, Urraba abounds in Venison, Fish, and all sorts of ravenous Creatures, as Tygers, Lyons, and a particular strange Beast as big as an Ox, having an Elephants Nose, Horses Feet, and hanging Ears.
The Trees likewise swarm with Birds; and especially near Lakes or Pools breed Pheasants and Parrots, of which some are bigger than Capons, others no bigger than Chickens.
[Sidenote: The Mountain Abibe.]
Against Urraba juts the Mountain Abibe, whose length Westward remains unknown; the breadth thereof in some places is about twenty Leagues; it hath many Ways which cannot be travell’d with Horses. The top of this Mountain is uninhabited; but along the Valleys, which are many and large, dwelt formerly a People that possess’d great Riches in Gold, which they gather’d out of Rivulets that fell Westward from the tops of the Mountains. It Rains here almost all the year long, which makes the Ways very bad for Travellers to pass.
At the Foot of this Mountain, towards the South, lie two small antient Casiquedoms, if we may so call them, formerly inhabited by a valiant People, call’d Tarabe de Zenu, whether chiefly the dead Bodies were brought from all the adjacent Countreys, to be buried in great State, as hath been before intimated.
[Sidenote: Towns and Places of principal note.]
[Sidenote: The Description of Carthagena.]
The principal Towns and Places of note are 1. Carthagena, (so call’d either from the resemblance of its Situation with the City Carthagena in the Kingdom of Murcia belonging to Old Spain, or because the first Inhabitants were Citizens of the said City) which was begun to be built Anno 1532. by Peter de Heredia, but fully finished by Georgio Robledo, eight years after the first Foundation thereof was laid. This Episcopal Metropolis is on the North wash’d by the North Sea over a plain shallow Ground; on the Land side the Sea flows through a narrow Bay by the City towards the Lake Canupote, which ebbs and flows equal with the Ocean, and receives and discharges its Water through two Pipes which lie under a long Bridge, joyning Carthagena to the Main Coast. This City boasted long since above five hundred Stone Houses, being divided into twenty six large Streets, whereof four are six hundred and twenty Paces long: behind each House is a Garden; and the Church appears above all the other Buildings: The Dominicans Cloyster is also fairly built; neither is the Franciscans inferior to it, who also possess a second Edifice on the Main Continent over the Bridge. The Custom-house and Court where the Courts for the whole Province of Carthagena are kept, are also stately Structures. The Haven hath two Entrances, the chiefest whereof lies half a League Eastward from the City, and the Western, call’d La Boca, is as far again; both very dangerous, because of the many blind Rocks that lie before them. Anno 1585. when Sir Francis Drake took Carthagena by Storm, the whole was fortifi’d with Sconces, besides two Forts for the better security thereof, whereof one lock’d up the narrow Mouth of the Haven with a strong Chain; not far from which stood an Abbey, Dedicated to the Franciscans, and Wall’d round about; since which they have several Out-works, Forts and Towers, to prevent all foreign Invasions. The City grows wealthy daily by the Peruan Plate-Fleet putting in there before they go to Spain, and especially by the Trade from New Granada along the River Magdalena. The Island before the Haven, antiently call’d Codega, now Carex, inhabited by Fisher-men when the Spaniards Landed there, is now desolate, the remainder of those that were destroy’d by them being fled to wild places from the Spaniards Cruelties; notwithstanding the People hereabouts were valiant enough to Engage with them. But since the Devastation made by Sir Francis Drake, Carthagena hath receiv’d a more fatal Blow; for it was scarce fully repair’d, when five French Privateers burnt the City to Ashes: which Mischief was occasion’d by a Spanish Seaman, who being whipt by Command of the Governor, resolving for Revenge, went from Spain to France, and conducted the fore-mention’d Ships to Carthagena, where he reveng’d himself on the Governor; for finding him asleep, he first wak’d him, and after having told him of his causing him to be Whipt, he kill’d him. The Booty which the Spaniards carried from thence at that time amounted to above a hundred and fifty thousand Ducats.
[Sidenote: The Balsam of Tolu very famous.]
2. Tolu, by the Spaniards now call’d St. Jago, twelve Leagues distant from Carthagena, a Place memorable for the excellent Balsam which is brought from thence, and commonly call’d The Balsam of Tolu; it is gather’d in a Spoonful of black Wax, stuck under the Hole cut in the Bark of a low Pine-Tree, out of which in hot Weather runs a Golden colour’d Gum, very soveraign, and of an excellent smell.
3. St. Crux de Mopox, a neat Town, seated a little above the confluence of the two Rivers, St. Martha and Magdalena, which waters this Province.
4. Baranca de Nolambo, a Place of great Traffick, especially for all Commodities of the new Kingdom of Granada; it standeth upon the Banks of the River Magdalena, and about six Leagues distant from the Sea.
5. Buena Vista, otherwise call’d St. Sebastian de Buena Vista, a Town commodiously seated upon a rising Ground not far from the Gulf of Urraba, or the Sound of Darien, about a League and a half from the Sea.
6. Villa de St. Maria, thirty Leagues Southward of Carthagena.
[Sidenote: Rivers of Carthagena.]
The Province of Carthagena is stor’d with many Brooks and great Rivers, amongst which the Stream Cauca falls into the River Magdalena, beyond Popayan near Mopox.
The River Zenu, which gives Denomination to the above-mention’d Territory, makes a very convenient Harbor with its Mouth, where much Salt is to be had.
The Daria, which runs between Panama and Carthagena into the Inlet Urraba, gives its Denomination to the foregoing Province, through which it also runs, as hath been already mention’d.
The River which for its greatness is call’d Rio Grande, or Magdalena, (because it was discover’d on the Day Consecrated to that Saint) falls with such force into the Northern Ocean, about twenty three Leagues Eastward from Carthagena, that running two Leagues broad and ten long into the Sea, it retains its freshness of Water; in which there lying many Rocks, makes the same very dangerous for Ships. In the Mouth of the Haven lies an Island, which is divided by the River, the widest and most frequented Channel of which respects St. Martha, where those that carry the Merchandise up this Stream to New Granada, spend two Moneths in Toeing, whenas they come from thence in three Weeks.
Thunder and Lightning rages here many times after a terrible manner from Midnight till Morning. In January there falls also abundance of Rain, which gliding from the Mountains swells the River exceedingly.
SECT. V. St. Martha.
[Sidenote: Description of St. Martha.]
St. Martha, so call’d from the chief City of the Province, is border’d on the West with New Andaluzia; on the East, with Rio de la Hacha; on the North, with the Ocean; and on the South, with New Granada; It is about threescore and ten Leagues in length, and not much less in breadth: It was antiently distributed into several little Seignories, Govern’d by Casiques, or petty Princes, viz. Pozigueica, Betoma, Buritaca, Chimola, inhabited by valiant Men and beautiful Women, and above all the rest, Tairona, (whose People for a long time maintain’d War against the Spaniards) lying at the Foot of the high Mountains Sierras Nevadas, whose snowy Crowns are seen thirty Leagues off at Sea, and run along in a continu’d Ridge through Peru and Chili to the Straights of Magellan.
This Countrey was Discover’d, and part of it Planted, Anno 1524. by Roderic de Bastredas, who afterwards was murder’d in his Sleep by his own People.
[Sidenote: The Nature of the Climate, and Commodities of the Countrey.]
The Sun shines so exceeding hot near the Sea-coast, that there is no enduring of the same; but up in the Countrey the snowy Mountains occasion great Cold, and in Harvest and October it Rains exceedingly, whereas at other times it is very dry Weather, and the Winds blow generally out of the East or North-East, yet the Land-Breezes coming out of the West bring sometimes Rains with them. From the Mountains, which are stony and barren, fall many Brooks and Rivers, which water divers Plains, the Grass and other Plants of which are often blasted by violent Storms; nevertheless Oranges, Lemmons, Granates, and all sorts of Spanish Garden Fruits grow here in great plenty. The Woods afford likewise Pigeons, Partridges, Venison, and the like; the Rivers all manner of Fish, which are seen to swim in great numbers twenty Yards under the Water, especially in the Haven St. Martha, near which formerly liv’d many Fisher-men, who with Nets made of tough Twigs pleited together, caught such plenty of Fish, that they furnish’d all their Neighbors. The High-ways are made dangerous by Lyons, Tygers, and Bears.
[Sidenote: Great plenty of Precious Stones in these Parts.]
[Sidenote: Peter di Lugo his Treachery to the Natives.]
[Sidenote: The Welsares Journey.]
The Countrey Buritaca affords the Inhabitants Gold; Tairona, excellent Stones against Bleeding and the Gravel, Jasper, Porphyr, and Gold; the Valley Tunia, many rich Emeraulds, which Stones us’d to be in great esteem before America produc’d such great numbers of them. Acosta relates, That a Spaniard desiring to know the Price of an Emerauld, shew’d two to an Italian Jeweller, who valu’d the one at a hundred, the other at three hundred Ducats; but soon after seeing a Chest full of them, said they were scare worth a Ducat apiece; and that the Sute which the Roman Lady wore, being beset with Emeraulds, and valu’d at four hundred thousand Ducats, would not sell now for half so much. This Stone or Jewel exceedingly fortifies the Sight, wherefore the Emperor Nero represented the bloody Encounters of Fencers in an Emerauld. It is also judg’d to be good against the Falling-sickness, wherefore the Indians hang them in their Noses to this day, and adorn their Idols with them; they grow in stony Rocks along Veins, not unlike Crystal, and in time obtain a glittering Greenness; the biggest of them that are found in this Age are most esteem’d of in Genua. The Emerauld Pillar, which as a wonderful Ornament stood in Hercules’s Temple in the City of Tyrus, being very famous amongst the Antients, was without doubt no more than a green Stone; and perhaps of the same Material, was the Pillar erected by the Arabian King Miramamolines, in the Cathedral at Corduba. But the great fame of these Emeraulds incited Gonzalvez Zimenes, Governor of St. Martha, to leave his Place and seek for them; to which end he Sail’d up the Rivulet Gayra with two Ketches and forty five Spaniards, who meeting with the Casique Bagotta, got much Gold of him, and afterwards went to the Valley Tessuca; of which Simandoca being Governor, conducted Ximenez twenty three Leagues farther to an Emerauld Rock, from whence he return’d exceedingly enriched; the rumor of which spreading up and down, made several travel thither; amongst whom was Peter di Lugo, Governor of Terra Firma, who sending for Aid from Carthagena, fought his way to Bagotta, who resisted him for some time, till at last being defeated he made Peace with them for a considerable quantity of Gold; which when Peter di Lugo had receiv’d, not regarding his Word, he plunder’d all the Countrey, and having committed all imaginable Cruelties on the Natives, return’d home with an invaluable Mass of Gold and Emeraulds to St. Martha. Not long after the Welsares, German Knights, came from Venezuela, (which City the Emperor Charles the Fifth Morgag’d to them Anno 1518.) and travell’d through the snowy Mountains of St. Martha with Indian Guides, whose Instructions following, they digg’d many Emeraulds out of the Valley Funia; the Inhabitants of which affrighted at the sight of the Strangers, hang’d themselves out of despair, though naturally valiant, and ingenious in working in Tapestry the shapes of Tygers, Lyons, and other Beasts, and painting on the Walls of their Houses variety of Figures of divers colours, covering their Floors with Mats neatly pleited of Rushes. They fed on Fish, Venison, and Mans-flesh, and also on the Roots Agies, tasting like Chesnuts, Yuca, Maiz, Batata, and Cassada.
[Sidenote: Chief Cities and Places of note.]
The chief Cities and Places of principal note in this Province are 1. St. Martha, which gives Denomination to the whole Province, it stands built at the North Sea, which makes a large and convenient Harbor, being defended from the Winds by high Mountains and two Isles, is a Bishop’s See, and hath a large Cathedral. The Houses built of Canes are cover’d with Palmito-Trees, and some with woodden Shingles. The Haven hath neither Fort nor Castle to defend it, because there is no Trade but with the Indians, which bring Earthen Ware and Cotton Clothes to sell; and because the Spanish Ships seldom come hither, the Place is much gone to decay, and the more, because it is no way defended against any Assault of an Enemy, which the French, and afterwards the English, under the Command of Sir Francis Drake, and the following Year under Captain Anthony Shirley took advantage of, and plunder’d and burnt the City.
2. Teneriff, built on the Banks of the River Magdalena, forty Leagues from St. Martha.
3. Tamalameque, otherwise call’d Villa de las Palmas, twenty Leagues South of Teneriff, lying on a high stony Ground; between which are plain Pastures for Cattel, surrounded with high Woods, as also Pools made by the over-flowing of the Rivers, whose Banks are inhabited by the Indians, who are much addicted to Sleep and Drinking. The Pools before mention’d produce abundance of Fish, as also Crocodiles, and the terrible Manati before describ’d.
4. Ocanna, which hath an Inland Haven.
5. Ramada, formerly call’d New Salamanca, standing at the Foot of the Mountain call’d Sierras Nevadas. This Town is famous for its Copper and Brass Mines.
6. Cividad de los Reyes, which built in the Valley Upari, stands on the Shore of the mighty River Guataporeya, where from the beginning of January till May the Eastern Breezes moderate the Heat, otherwise intolerable: But the continual Rains thereabout occasions the Quartan Ague, and many such like Distempers. The Natives hereabouts, salvage and valiant, would never submit to the Spaniards.
[Sidenote: The Tree Xagua.]
The peculiar Plants of this Place are the Tree Xagua, which bears a Fruit like a Raisin, which dry’d and ground yields exceeding good Meal for Bread.
[Sidenote: The Root Scorzonera.]
The Root Scorzonera, which cures the Bitings of Serpents. The Indians also use the Tail of a Serpent for a Remedy against the same Evil, as they take Tobacco against the Falling-sickness, and snuff the Powder in at their Nostrils, and drink the Juice thereof to cause Loosness.
[Sidenote: Chief Rivers.]
The chief Rivers of this Province, are 1. Polomino, so call’d from a Spanish Captain, that was drown’d there with his Horse, falling from the Sierras Nevadas.
2. Guatupori, whose Water causes the Bloody-flux and Loosness, which again is cur’d by the same Water drunk with beaten Cinamon. Guatupori reckons many Rivulets, amongst which the Cesar and Budillo are both large, deep, and abounding with Fish.
Near the City Los Reyes are three great Water-pits, triangular between stony Cliffs; nigh which a Tradition goes, That of old there lurk’d a terrible Serpent, which at times devour’d a thousand People; insomuch that none durst dwell thereabouts, till certain Spaniards having the hardiness and curiosity to go seek out this Serpent, heard a great noise in the Pits, but saw nothing like the fore-mention’d Animal.
Here are likewise several Fountains of Pitch and Tar.
SECT. VI. Rio de la Hacha.
[Sidenote: Rio de la Hacha.]
Rio de la Hacha is the Name of a little Province lying on the North-East of St. Martha, wash’d on all other parts with the Waters of the Main Ocean, or with the Gulf or Bay of Venezuela.
[Sidenote: Chief Towns of this Province.]
The chief Towns of this Province, are 1. A small Town call’d De la Hacha, which gives Denomination to the said Province, having no convenient Haven, but otherwise seated in a Soil very rich and fertile, not onely of all sorts of Fruits and Plants, especially such as are brought from Spain, but likewise in many Mines of Gold, Gems of a large size and great value, and many excellent Salt-Wiches, as they call them; It is eight Leagues distant from Salamanca aforesaid, and eighteen from Cape Villa, the most Westerly Point or Foreland of the Bay of Venezuela; and with the rest had the hap to be surpris’d and pillag’d by the English with Sir Francis Drake in the Year 1595. who refus’d twenty four thousand Ducats, which the Governor proffer’d him for the Pearls he had taken.
2. Rancheria, six Leagues Eastward of La Hacha, inhabited chiefly by Pearl-Fishers, or such as get their Living for the most part by Fishing for Pearl, which was wont to be good on these Coasts.
3. Tapia, five Leagues from La Hacha, and considerable, for that the adjacent Parts were laid waste by the English, to revenge the perfidiousness of the Governor of Salamanca, refusing to pay the four thousand Ducats he had promis’d, upon Condition of their sparing the Town.
[Sidenote: Abibeca the last King of this Province.]
The last King of those that Govern’d in any of these Provinces of Terra Firma, was Abibeca, who could not be won to come down from his Palace, which he had on the top of a Tree, till a Spanish Officer, one Francisco de Vanquez began to lay an Ax to the Root thereof.
After Didaco Niquesa, Alphonso Oreda, and Anciso, had made very large Discoveries in these Provinces, Valboa was the first that discover’d the Way to the South-Sea.
CHAP. III. New Granada.
[Sidenote: First Discovery of New Granada.]
The new Kingdom of Granada, as ’tis commonly call’d, was for the most part both discover’d and conquer’d by Gonsalvo Ximenes, about the Year 1536. and with so good success, that in less than a years space, the whole Countrey was quietly setled under the Spaniards Government, and the Captain with his small Company had made shift to gather together such a Mass of Treasure as may seem almost incredible, viz. from the Reguli, or petty Princes of those Countreys, whom he had either destroy’d or made Tributary. But a more particular Relation of Ximenes his Journey take as followeth:
[Sidenote: Gustavo Ximenes his Expedition.]
Being sent out by Peter Ferdinando de Lugo, to discover the Countreys that lay along the River Magdalena, he travell’d upon the right side of it with great trouble; for not onely the brambly Woods, Moors, and deep Brooks, made the Way exceeding bad to be travell’d, but also the Inhabitants, who fell upon him from their Ambuscades: yet at last he reach’d Tora, which Name he chang’d into Pueblo de los Bracos, because four Rivers unite their Waters there. Here ordering his Brigantines which were come up the River to cast their Anchors, he judg’d it convenient to stay all the Winter, because the swoln Rivers had drown’d the adjacent Countrey. Ximenes observing that the Indians fetch’d Salt from the Sea-side, judg’d that the Countrey was inhabited, and therefore in fair Weather march’d up to the Mountain Opou, behind which he found a Countrey full of Salt-pools, which produc’d Cakes of Salt. And somewhat farther the Province Govern’d by the Casique Bogata, who at first resisting the Spaniards, was soon put to flight, when he heard the noise of the Guns. The Panches divided from Bogata’s Countrey by a small Mountain, also maintaining continual Wars with him, suffer’d the Spaniards unmolested to travel through their Countrey, and the Valley La Trompetta, to a high barren Mountain, on the top of which Ximenes found several Emeraulds; and going from thence fell upon the Casique Tunia, and three days Journey farther, upon the Governors Sagamosa and Diutama; from which three Countreys he carried above a hundred and ninety thousand pieces of fine Gold, fifty five thousand pieces of indifferent Gold, and eighteen hundred Emeraulds; all which the Spaniards left behind with Guards whilest they went back to Bogata whom they found lying dead of his Wounds on a high Hill: But Sagipa, Bogata’s Successor, receiv’d Ximenes with great Civility, to engage his Assistance against his Neighbors the Panches; which he did not refuse him: but afterwards he fell most perfidiously upon the said Sagipa, whom he caus’d to be Executed, because he either could not, or would not discover where those Riches were which Bogata had left behind him. After he had pillag’d the little Region Neyba, and brought into subjection the whole Countrey, he gave it the Name of New Granada, from Granada the place of his Nativity, being the chief City of the Kingdom of Granada in Spain, and built the City Santa Fe; which done, he quitted the Place, upon information that Sebastian de Bevalcazar coming from Popayan, was seeking a Way Northward; and not long after him Nicholas Federman follow’d, each claiming New Granada as their Right, whereas Ximenes alledg’d, That the first Discovery thereof was to be ascribed to him onely: at last Agreeing, they resolv’d that it should be at the King of Spain’s disposal.
[Sidenote: The Nature and Custom of the Moxas.]
The antient Inhabitants, nam’d Moxas, divided their Countrey into two chief Principalities, viz. Bogota and Tunica, which before the Spaniards Arrival were each under their particular Casique or Prince. The Men were of a good proportion; the Women also handsomer, and of a fairer Complexion than their Neighbors: Their Habit also consisted of black, white, and divers colour’d Cotton Cloaks, and some also had Bonnets of the same. The temperateness of the Climate makes little difference between Winter and Summer. Their Houses were of Planks, and cover’d with long Rushes. Their chiefest Food was Maiz and Cassave, which first grows on Stalks as large as Canes, containing very large and weighty Spikes or Ears, each Ear generally yielding seven hundred Grains, which are Planted in hot and moist Ground; one Bushel Sow’n, generally produces three hundred. But the Maiz is distinguish’d into a courser or finer sort, which last is call’d Moroche, the Leaves and Canes whereof afford a wholsom Provender for Horses, and the Corn, Bread for the Inhabitants, who make it several ways; for sometimes they boyl it in Water, and at other times parch it in Ashes, or grind it to Meal, which kneading into Dough, they make into Cakes, Biskets, and the like: Moreover, Maiz steep’d in Water, and after being boyl’d and set a working, makes a very strong Liquor. They also use Cassada, which they make of the Root Yuca, which being large and thick, is cut in pieces, grated, and all its Juice, which is deadly poyson, being press’d out, is Bak’d in thin Cakes. There is likewise another sort of Yuca, which hath not so poysonous a Juice, keeping good a long time, and is both wholsom, and of a good taste. The Natives of old liv’d much upon the Roots Yomus, and Cubias, all sorts of Venison, Fowls, and Fish, which the Rivers and Lakes afford in great abundance. Those that are left of the Natives, are a deceitful, crafty, and ingenious sort of People, very apt to learn Art, and to Trade with Salt to Rio Grande, and the Mountain Opou.
Besides Copper and Steel-Mines, this Countrey hath also several of Gold; and the Fields produce all manner of Plants.
[Sidenote: The Nature of the Panchas.]
The Panchas which remain are yet a salvage People, but their Countrey is an indifferent fertile Soil, though not in all places alike; for those which border upon Tunia fed much heretofore on Pismires, of which some being long, have double Wings, others lesser and without Wings; which last sort being roasted, are accounted a great Dainty, and a speedy Remedy against the Distemper of the Gravel. There are also a sort of venomous Pismires, which stinging a Man, cause a swelling and great itching, and these are call’d Tayoques, whose Stings are cur’d by a Plaister of bruis’d Pismires.
[Sidenote: The Bounds and Dimensions of Nova Granada.]
The Countrey is bounded on the North with Castella Aurea aforesaid; on the West, with Mare del Zur; on the East, with Venezuela; the Southern parts of it being not well discover’d, by reason of certain huge and unpassable Mountains, which block it up wholly on that side, save onely where a Passage is kept open into the Province of Peru, specially so call’d: It containeth in length about a hundred and thirty Leagues, and not much less in breadth, being for the most part a very healthful Countrey, and abounding in Mines of the best sort of Metal, besides others of Brass and Iron. It is subdivided into these two Provinces, viz. Granada and Popayana.
SECT. II. Granada.
[Sidenote: Description of Granada.]
Granada, specially so call’d, is a Countrey of a very temperate and good Air, as hath been before observ’d, neither subject to over-much Cold, nor to extremity of Heat; which is the more to be admir’d by reason of its nearness to the Line, from which it is distant Northward but a very few Degrees.
[Sidenote: Towns of chief note.]
The Towns and Places of chief importance are, 1. St. Foy, commonly call’d St. Foy de Bagota, which was the old Name of this Province, and to distinguish it from another St. Foy, in the Countrey of New Mexico above mention’d. It is the Metropolis and Capital City of this Province, an Arch-bishop’s See, and the ordinary Residence of the Governor, built by the above-mention’d Gonsalvo Ximenes upon the Lake call’d Guatavita, and hath been long since inhabited by above six hundred Families of Spaniards.
2. St. Michael, twelve Leagues Northward of St. Foy, and a well Traded Town. The Indians that dwell about this Place being above five thousand, pay great Tribute yearly. Not far from hence lies the Lake Guatavita, where the Inhabitants in former times Offer’d much Gold to their Idols.
[Sidenote: Commodities of the Countrey of Tocaima.]
3. Tocaima, fourteen Leagues Westward from St. Foy, within a Territory which antiently belong’d to the Panches, who yet possess the worst part of it, lying still wild and unreduc’d: It is situate on the Banks of the great River Pati, which falls into the Rivulet Magdalena. This City, which enjoys the benefit of a wholsom Climate, is surrounded with Mines of Gold, Copper, Silver, and Lead. And besides the Fruits of the Countrey, all Spanish Plants thrive exceedingly after once Planted; and though Sheep will not breed here, yet Kine, Hogs, and Goats increase daily, but are often devour’d by Tygers, Lyons, and Bears. The Woods produce Nut-Trees, Cedars, Guaiacum, or Pock-Wood, and the wonderful Tree Zeyba, whose Leaves fall off every twelve hours, and grow again. The Fowls of this Countrey are many and several. Near the City are sulphurous Fountains, whose Waters cure Scabs and Leprosie. In the Valleys also flow Springs of salt Water, which thrown on Herbs, turns to Rozen and Pitch, and is good to make Boats tight. The tops of the Mountains are continually cover’d with Snow, notwithstanding some of them vomit forth horrible Flames and Ashes, which are blown several Leagues over the Countrey. The vicissitude of the Weather occasions two Summers and two Winters; the first Summer begins in December, and the second in June; the first Winter accordingly begins in March, and the other in October. This alteration of Seasons is not distinguish’d by any change of Heat or Cold, but the continuance of fair Weather during the Summer, and in the Winter, of such terrible Hurricanes, that blow from North to South, or from South to North, with such Thundering and Lightning, as if the end of the World were at hand. The chiefest Trees that grow here are Cedars, and one that bears exceeding great Almonds. The Quaque also bears a pleasant Fruit about the bigness of a Goose-Egg; and the Fig-Tree, Figs as large as Oranges. The Agnapa which grows here is of such a nature, that an European sleeping under it, swells exceedingly, but an Indian bursts. The Bark and Sprigs of the Hobo, which grows high and round, serve against Swellings and Ulcers, and occasion also Loosness. Sugar-Canes grow also here in great abundance, amongst which feed certain Beasts like Hogs, whose Navels grow on their Backs; and large Stags. The Fountains in most places of this Countrey run with salt Water; and sometimes Salt is found between fresh-Water Brooks. The Natives, who are valiant, subtile, and well proportion’d, are since their giving over eating of Mans-flesh much increas’d, and many of them forsaking their Heathenish Idolatry, have embrac’d the Roman-Catholick Religion.
4. La Palma, built Anno 1572. in a certain Territory, the People whereof were antiently call’d Musi and Colymæ.
5. Trinidad, which is indeed the antient Tudela renew’d, or a City sprung out of the Ruines thereof. This Tudela stood on the Shore of the River Zarbi, which running between high Mountains, makes the Rivulet Turatena, and in the same Territory as La Palma above mention’d, viz. of the Musi & Colymæ, by whom the Spaniards, who had here a Colony, were so exceedingly molested, that they deserted the same, together with their Governor Peter de Orsua: yet not long after the forsaken Place was again re-built by the Name of Trinidad; but that Place proving incommodious, was again abandon’d, and a new Trinidad built, where now it is to be seen on a convenient place Eastward from the high and cold Mountain Paramo. From several rich Gemmaries thereabouts are digg’d store of Emeraulds, Crystal like Diamonds, white Marble, and the Beryl, especially on the Mountains Ytoco and Abipi.
6. Tunia, having a Territory about it, to which it gives Denomination; It lies on a high Hill, from whence the Church and two Cloysters of the Dominican Fryers are seen at a great distance. Here also is kept the greatest Market in New Granada.
7. Pampelona, sixty Leagues distant from St. Foy to the North-East, abounding with Cattel and Gold.
8. Merida, surrounded with Corn-Fields, the farthest Town of this Province North-Eastward towards Venezuela.
9. Belez, which though it suffers great prejudice by a burning a Mountain that vomits Fire and Stones, and also Thunder and Lightning, is the greatest Residence of several Orders of Fryers.
10. Marequita, otherwise call’d St. Sebastian del Oro, which lies under a hot Climate, and hath much Pasture.
11. Ybague, the Habitation chiefly of Dominicans.
12. La Vittoria de los Remedios; and 13. Juan de los Lanos, or St. John of the Plains, seated in a rich Nook of the Countrey, where there are good Silver and Gold-Mines.
The Merchandise that come to these Towns, are brought up the River Magdalena in Canoos of sixty Foot long.
SECT. III. Popayana.
[Sidenote: Situation and Description of Popayana.]
Popayana, the other part of this new Kingdom, is border’d on the West with part of Granada last spoken of, from which the River St. Martha divides it for the most part: On the North it hath Nova Andaluzia, or Carthagena; on the West, Mare del Zur; and on the South, Quito, or rather some unreduc’d Countreys lying betwixt them both; It extends in length above a hundred Leagues from North to South, but in breadth, betwixt the River and the South Sea, not much above forty or fifty. The Countrey is said to be a little too much subject to Rain, yet not so, but that the fertility of the Soil answers the industry of the Inhabitants in most places very well.
Sebastian de Bevalcazar, Governor of Quito, marching Anno 1536. with a Company of Spaniards to Otabalo, where the Countrey Popayan begins, was often set upon by the Natives from their Ambuscades, and the many Inconveniences which he suffer’d for want of Provisions, and trouble of travelling over the high Mountains, had necessitated him to return, had he not been resolutely bent to discover the Countrey; to which purpose marching on leisurely, he came into the heart of Popayan, where his wearied People sufficiently resting themselves amidst a fruitful Countrey, where they found pleasant Fruit-Trees, Houses full of Provisions, and fresh Rivers, which glided from the Mountain Andes, and some of the Rivulets also affording Gold, were encourag’d to build several Villages; in which nevertheless they made no Settlement, either because they could not get Gold enough, or else being driven from thence by the valiant Natives.
[Sidenote: Cities and Towns of chief note.]
The Places of chief note in it, are 1. Popayan, situate on the Banks of a fair River, but not nam’d, and in the midst of a Plain in a place of great Wealth, and enjoying a good Air. The original of the Name Popayan is from the Casique who Govern’d there at the time of the Spaniards first Arrival. It is a Bishop’s See, and the ordinary Residence of the Governor of the Province. The chief Buildings are the Cathedral, and a Monastery of the Fryers De la Merced. The Savanna Grounds towards the North feed many fat Cattel. The Fields produce the best American Maiz. Some of the adjacent Mountains either vomit Smoak, Flames, great Stones, or scalding Water, leaving a Salt behind it. Beyond the City Popayan the great River Magdalena takes its original in the Valley Cali, where several Brooks gliding from the Mountain Andes, inhabited by the Cocunocos, unite their Waters.
2. Antiochia, otherwise call’d St. Fides de Antiochia, on the Borders of New Andaluzia, and about a hundred Leagues from Popayan. In the midst of a small Territory to which it gives Name, in the Valley Nore, between the River Magdalena and Daria, wash’d by Rivulets, whose Sands are Golden, and whose Banks are shaded with all sorts of Fruit-Trees. The Inhabitants white and very rational, sleep in the Night under the open Skye: Their Houses are built a good distance from the Highways; near which the Pastures feed abundance of Sheep. The Pools breed plenty of Fish, and the Mines store of Gold, especially in the Mountain Buritica.
3. Caramanta, seated likewise on the Banks of the River St. Martha, within a little Province also of the same Name; the Inhabitants whereof being valiant and strong go naked, and dwell in little Huts, make white Salt out of a Fountain and a little Lake: they generally go to Antiochia in six hours, which is forty five Leagues, so swift runs the Stream.
4. St. Anne, in the Cantred or Hundred of Anzerma, a Town neatly situate upon the side of an Hill betwixt two Rivers, and in the midst of Plain no less pleasant than fertile: It was so call’d by Bevalcazar, because the Indians of this Place name the Salt Anzer; it is surrounded with Villages and Woods on a high Plain between two Rivers. The Air being exceeding hot, lightens generally every day.
5. The Village Pueblo Llana, which is inhabited by little People, who Trade in Salt, and have also Golden Rivulets. Near this Place is the Valley Aburra, consisting of many fruitful Plains, moistned by several Rivers; the Inhabitants whereof at the Spaniards first coming thither, hang’d themselves, with their Wives and Children.
6. St. Jago de Arma, built in a Wood of Palm-Trees, so nam’d from the Territory in which it standeth, rich and famous for its Mines of Gold, which it is said to have many and very good: The Ground round about being Mountainous, hath several Rivers, the chiefest whereof call’d Di Arma, is dangerous to cross, especially in Winter. The unwholsom Air hereabouts occasions many Sicknesses. Amongst other Fruits that grow in this County, is the Pytahaya, which whoe’re eats, voids Urine as red as Blood. Adjacent to it are the little Provinces Paucuran, Pozo, and Picara, which possess Golden Mines: also the Territory Carrapa which hath high and rugged Land, and many Rivulets: likewise the County Quimbaya, which abounds with thick and long Canes, wherewith the Natives build their Houses; in the hollow Bodies of these Canes the wild Bees gather store of Honey; and amongst them breed also exceeding great Lyons, the four-footed Beast Chuca which carries its Young in a Bag, Stags, Rabbets and Guadaquinajes, which being bigger than Hares, are exceeding good Meat. The Mountain Nevada, wonderful high, and smoaking continually, produces the golden Rivers Tacurumbi & De la Cequo. Twenty Leagues or more distant from St. Jago is, 7. Carthago, the chief City of Quimbayaes, and by which the aforesaid Rivers run. The temperate Climate here gives Health and long Life to the Inhabitants, who have several Fountains of salt Water, and the Fruit Caymito, not unlike a Peach, black within, having little Kernels, and a Juice which Dyes so deep, that it can scarce be wash’d off. Horses and Cows they have likewise very plentiful. Carthago it self stands in a pleasant Plain between two Rivulets; the Ways that lead to the same are very dirty, because of the continual Rain which falls there, with Lightning and Thunder. A League beyond the City flows the Stream Consota; near which lies a Lake, out of which Salt is made.
8. The City Cali, the Residence for the Governor and Collector, lying under a hot Climate in a plain Valley at a River, which falling from the Mountain, glides to the Stream Magdalena. Round about the same dwelt antiently several People, viz. the Gorrones, so call’d, because they nam’d a Fish Gorron, the Chancos, Giants, with long Faces and broad Foreheads, the Aarbacoas, Agnales, and Los Timbas, inhabiting among barren Mountains; but most of them were slain by the Spaniards, or destroy’d by one another, few onely escaping to the tops of the Mountains. The Countrey also swarms with wild Beasts, which have also devour’d many of the Inhabitants, both Indians and Spaniards.
9. The Haven Bonaventure, situate in a deep Inlet, about which live some Families which send the Commodities that come from New Spain to Popayan, Cali, and other Places; and though there be a Way along by the River Dagua, convenient for Mules and Horses to travel, yet it is seldom us’d, because the Cattel are so wearied out with the long Journey, that they cannot go through with their Loads; wherefore they employ the Indians to carry their heavy Burthens over the Mountains, which they do for a small Reward.
10. St. Juan de Pasto, giving Denomination to the Countrey about it, and being built on the pleasant Plains of the Valley Atris, is situate in a wholsom Climate, and is moistned by several Fountains and the River Angasmayo, the Boundary of Peru. The Spaniards have several Houses here, and breed store of Cattel, and especially Hogs. They have likewise Sugar-Mills, with which they make abundance of Sugar. The antient Inhabitants were salvage, deform’d, and of little Reason.
11. Timana, giving Denomination to the Countrey about, is plac’d under a hot Climate, yet the Inhabitants live long; they drive a great Trade with Thred spun out of the Herb Pita; and also with Sweet-meats, Fruits Preserv’d with Honey and Sugar, and especially a Kernel not unlike an Almond. In their Gardens they Plant the Herb Cocoa, which they chew constantly for the strengthning of their Hearts. Near Pita is a Mountain with Load-stones; and somewhat farther the Habitations of the valiant Yalcones in the Valley Aquirya, the Paezes, Pixaos, and Manipos, which so molested the Spaniards, that they forc’d them to forsake the Towns Neyra, St. Vincent, and Ville de los Angelos.
12. Guadalajara de Buga; and 13. Sebastian de la Plata, built on a Plain near the River Guali; the Countrey about which is exceedingly troubled with Earthquakes, and the Inhabitants with their Neighbors the Nineres, who bring the Flesh of their Prisoners to Sale in the publick Shambles.
14. Almague, built on a high Mountain, and lying under a cool Climate, is surrounded with fruitful Fields, which feed store of Cattel, and enrich’d with several Gold-Mines.
15. Juan de Truxillo, which the Indians call Yscance.
16. Madrigall; 17. Chapanchipa; 18. Malaga; and 19. Agreda; the Mountains about which inclose store of Gold.
Between the Promontory De Corrientes and the Island Palmas, are the Rivers Salinas and Balsas, which fall into the Southern Ocean; St. Juan, whose Banks are inhabited by a salvage People which dwell in the tops of the Trees, because the River oftentimes overflows the Countrey. They sowe Pease and Beans, and catch Fish, but buy other Provisions, with Gold.
[Sidenote: The Isle Gorgona.]
Against the Mouth of this River St. Juan lies the Isle Gorgona, three Leagues in circumference, which is compar’d to Hell, because of the dismal Woods which are upon it, barren Mountains, Millions of Musticho’s, whose Stings are intolerable, and never-ceasing Rain, insomuch that the Sun never shines upon it.
[Sidenote: The Isle Del Gallo.]
West-South-West from Gorgona lies the round Island Del Gallo, about a League in circumference; it is divided by several Rivers, and round about Planted with Trees, on which the Indians dwell as at the River St. Juan.
CHAP. IV. Peru.
[Sidenote: The Description and Division of Peru.]
Peru, so call’d, as some think, from the River Beru afore mention’d, in the Southern part of America, was antiently a great and mighty Kingdom, as Mexico in the Northern, and fell under the Power of the Spaniards much after the same manner that the Kingdom of Mexico did, viz. through the Dissentions and Differences amongst the People themselves, as in the History of this considerable part of the New World will be related at large hereafter.
[Sidenote: Commodities of the Countrey.]
[Sidenote: The Fountain Puchio.]
[Sidenote: Another strange Fountain.]
[Sidenote: A most wonderful Rock.]
The Kingdom of the Kings of Cusco, which in some sence, and by some Writers upon occasion, is call’d The Kingdom of Peru, was extended by the last Inca or King, Huayna Capac, from North to South above a thousand Leagues together, comprehending not only a great part of the Province of Chile towards the South, but also the new Kingdom of Granada, and divers other Provinces to the North; but Peru, properly so call’d, containeth little more than half so much, viz. six hundred Leagues in length, and about fifty or threescore in breadth, except onely in some places, as in the Countrey of Chacopoyas, where ’tis thought it may be a hundred Leagues from the Andes to the South Sea: It lieth between the first and fifth Degrees of Southern Latitude, and is bounded on the East and North-East with that vast Ridge of Mountains which they call the Andes; on the West it is wash’d with Mare del Zur; on the North it hath the Countrey of Popayan; and on the South, Chile: It is commonly divided into three parts, which they call The Plains, The Hill-Countrey, and The Andes; the Plains are that part of the Countrey which lie along upon the Sea-Coast, being for the most part a meer Level without any Hills at all. The Sierra, as they call it, or Hill-Countrey, is that part of Peru which is partly mountainous and partly plain, fertile and well inhabited in both. The Andes are so high, rocky, and inaccessible, that they are scarce inhabited at all but by Salvages, save onely upon the skirts of them. The Plains from the Sea-shore to the Hill-Countrey, are for the most part about ten Leagues over or broad, upon which it scarce raineth all the year long. The Hill-Countrey is commonly twenty Leagues in breadth where narrowest; and from September to April hath Rain, the rest of the Year generally being fair Weather; but on the Andes, which take up all the rest of the Countrey of Peru, it raineth almost continually all the year long. In the Hill-Countrey their Summer begins in April, as is said, and ends in September; but in the Plains it begins in October, and ends in May; so that in the space of a day a Man may feel both Summer and Winter; be scorch’d with excessive Heat in the Morning, and yet well nipt with Cold before Night. The Andes generally are cover’d with thick Woods and wild Forrests. The Hill-Countrey is for a great space naked and open; the Plains in many places sandy and dry, and would be much more scorch’d with Heat than they are, but for the neighborhood of the Sea, which affords them many cooling Gales from the South and South-West Winds, whose property, although it be natural in other parts to be tempestuous, to bring Rain and foul Weather, yet here there is nothing but Serenity and fair Sun-shine days all the year long, although these Winds blow almost without ceasing upon the Countrey, and no other at any time, whereas the Sierra, or Hill-Countreys have Wind from every Coast, and such as bringeth all sorts of Weather with it, Rain, Hail, Frost, Snow, great claps of Thunder, &c. The Countrey affordeth not so much Cattel of the breed of Europe as some other Provinces of America; but in stead of Kine and Sheep, the Woods and Pastures are replenish’d with multitudes of the Vicugnes and Pacos, which are of no less Profit and Service. The Pacos here are said to be as big as some young Heifers of two years old, bearing a Fleece like Sheep, and their Flesh no less pleasant than the Mutton of Europe. But the great Wealth of this Countrey lies out of sight in the bowels of the Earth, viz. in those rich and (as they may seem) inexhaustible Mines both of Gold and Silver, which, as ’tis well known, the Countrey of Peru affordeth more than any other Province of America besides. The Sierra opens into large Valleys, amongst the chiefest whereof are Xauxa, Andaguailas, and Yucay, all of them well inhabited and fruitful. Below Cusco the Mountains Andes and those of Sierra run a greater distance than elsewhere one from the other, leaving the great Plain Callao in the middle. Moreover, several sandy Wilds, without Water, Herbs, Trees, or any living Creature, except Birds, extend from Tumbez to Taparaca. From the Valleys flow several Rivers into the Southern Ocean. On the Mountain Pira is a Fountain call’d Puchio, which springs in the Night, but is quite dry in the Day-time. Also near the chief City Quito in the Valley Chilo, is a Fountain whose Waters boyl faster or slower according as any one speaks softer or louder; and when not a word is spoken, it stirs not at all. If any thing exceed this for strangeness, it is a Rock in the Province Concuchos, which is all compos’d of black and white Stones, which are so neatly plac’d by Nature, as if Art had done a Master-piece, in the exact placing of them one between another: but the chiefest thing belonging to it worthy of admiration, is a wonderful power either to heal or hurt; for if the black Stones in this Rock be touch’d by any, they cause immediate Death; whenas the white ones cure all manner of Sicknesses, and being digg’d out, leave a Seed behind them, out of which grow new Stones to fill up the empty place.
Iuca Garcilasso, Extracted from the Peruvian Kings, tells us concerning Plants, That he saw a Raddish which a Man with both Arms could scarce embrace, and that under the shade of their Leaves, Horses might stand. But of all the Peruan Fruit the Cocoa is the crown, which grows on Trees of a Fathom long in hot and moist Grounds of the Valleys between Andes and Sierra; from whence it is carried to the Sea-Coast in long Baskets by Companies of three or four thousand at a time on the Backs of the Sheep Pacos. Before the Spaniards coming hither none might chew Cocoa without the Governor’s leave: A handful thereof chew’d and suck’d in the Mouth, enables a Man to travel two days without any other Sustenance, and mix’d with burnt Bones or Chalk, it is accounted an excellent Dish; there is such extraordinary plenty of them, that the Inhabitants spend yearly 90000 Baskets of the Leaves in Pottage. The Peruans also esteem Mamayes, a Fruit which grows round, not unlike a Peach, with two Stones, hard Rinds, and a well-rellish’d Pulp within, which dipt in Sugar is a great Dainty; they grow for the most part in the Islands. The Guaiyavas bears a wholsom and delicious Fruit like a large Plumb. The Palto, a Tree with many Boughs, bears a Fruit resembling a Pear, having a hard Rind, and within the Pulp a great Stone. The Fruit which grows on the Annona hath outwardly the same shape, but white within, and hath many black Kernels, which taste very deliciously. The Fruit Andas, so call’d from the desolate Peruan Mountains on which they grow, resemble the fore-mention’d Cocoa, but differ from the East-Indian, because they are full of hard shell’d Almonds, the like whereof grows on the Tree Cachapoyas, which are not inferior to any European Fruits that grow on Trees; in that part of Peru which hath its Name from that Fruit is the best sort, being exceedingly devour’d by Monkies, who plucking the Cachapoya Almonds from their Stalks, throw them on the Ground to break their prickly Shells, that so they may eat the Kernels without hurt. The Mille-Tree, being a sort of Grapes, furnishes with Wine. But the greatest benefit the Inhabitants receive is by their Sheep Pacos and Moromoros, which carry great Loads, and feed on what they find by the Way; their Flesh is good and wholsom, and being either Smoak’d or Salted, keeps good a considerable time; their Wool dress’d affords Cumbi, of which they make fine Table-clothes and Tapestry, which on both sides is alike. The chiefest Weavers liv’d formerly at Copachica near the great Lake Titicacu: They Dye their Wool with the Juice of boyl’d Herbs. It seems also strange to consider what Loads the foremention’d Sheep carried, for besides all sorts of Merchandise, they convey’d the Silver from Potosi to Arica, a Way of sixty three Leagues; but in former times they brought it as far again to Arequipa; and though they carried two thousand Bars at a time, amounting to above thirty thousand Ducats, yet they had no other Guard but a few Herdsmen, who driving them slept with them in the Nights under the bare Skie, yet lost none of their Riches, but when the bald Sheep call’d Moromoros, being wearied with their Loads, standing still, stretch’d out their Necks, and looking on their Drivers, on a sudden ran up into the Mountains, by which means the Silver was oft-times lost, if they were not suddenly shot. The woolly Sheep Pacos have also strange Tricks, for they often fall down under their Loads, and cannot be got up again, but must be let alone till they rise of themselves. So soon as one of the Sheep hath gotten the Mange (which the Peruvians call T’ecarache,) they bury them alive to prevent farther Infection.
[Sidenote: The Customs and Habits of the antient Natives.]
[Sidenote: Giants antiently in St. Helena.]
The antient Natives, though differing in Language and Customs, yet went all Apparell’d after the same fashion, the Men cover’d themselves with a Shirt, which came down below their Knees, and over that a Cotton Cloak, the Women wore woollen Coats down to their Ancles: Their Head-Ornaments were different according to an inviolable Compact between the Natives of several Provinces; for some were wrought, some plain, some divers colour’d Caps, with two, three, or no Feathers, according to the Custom of the Place: They were generally of a middle Stature; but those that were near the Equinoctial Line lesser. Their Histories make mention also of Gyants, who formerly inhabited the Promontory St. Helena, were each four times bigger than an ordinary Man, and fed not onely on the greatest Sea-Monsters, but devour’d each of them thirty Peruvians at a Meal. The Stone Images of these Gyants are at this day to be seen not far from Puerto Viejo. They likewise kept for a longtime Annual Feast-Days, on which they lamented the loss of the Gyants, which (as they say) was as followeth:
A Youth glittering in glory like the Sun descended from Heaven, and breath’d Fire, which rending the Rocks so terrifi’d the Giants, that they fled into a deep Cave, where they were all kill’d.
[Sidenote: Helvius finds the Bones of the Giants.]
Cornelius Whitefleet relates, That Helvius, Governor of Puerto Viejo being stirr’d up by the Report of the fore-mention’d Images, caus’d all the Graves to be broke open, in some of which he found Bones, which they suppos’d to be Whale-Bones, had not the Sculls manifested the contrary.
[Sidenote: The original of the Kingdom of Peru.]
[Sidenote: The original of the Ingas.]
Concerning the original of the Kingdom of Peru the Natives give this Account of it: That the most antient Inhabitants flock’d together like wild Beasts, without constant Abodes, Customs, Laws, or Governors, which salvageness is still retain’d in many Parts, amongst the Brasilians, Chunches, Chiruguanes, Yscayungus, Piloconens, most of the Floridans, Chinchemecos, and others, which degenerate from all Humanity. In time when some kind of Government began to be observ’d, it was rather Popular than Monarchical; yet generally those that were most powerful, valiant and subtile, bore the greatest sway: Amongst whom the first that five Ages since Commanded over the Inhabitants of the Valley Cusco, was Ingaroca, a subtile and politick Person, who built the Fort Pucora, Eastward near the Foot of the Mountain Andes, that so he might bridle the People which inhabited in those Parts between the Rivers, Moors, and Lakes, where the remainders of the Fort are to be seen at this day: Moreover, he conquer’d all the Countrey along the Southern Ocean towards the North and South, giving out that he was extracted from one of the seven Ingas (by which Name the Peruan Kings have been styl’d ever since) which came out of the Cave Pacaritambo, where they were preserv’d against the Deluge (of which the Heathens in America had long since an obscure knowledge,) and restor’d the drowned Families; wherefore every one not onely obey’d, but paid him Tribute, and bound themselves to receive of him the true Religion, which they desir’d he would teach them, as none knowing the same better than he, whom they look’d upon as Extracted from the Ingas. Amongst these Ingas the chiefest was said to be Mangocapa, who, according to their fabulous Tradition, climb’d through the Window Tambo out of the Cave Pacaritambo, and produc’d two Families, viz. Hunan Cusco, and Urin Cusco; from the first whereof Ingaroca affirm’d himself Descended, and having first made himself Master of all the Countreys about Cusco, rais’d the Family Vicaquiquirao, and laid out a great part of his Revenues upon Gold and Silver Utensils, and Ornaments for his Person and House, which he in his last Will charg’d that none of his Successors should inherit, nor dwell in his Palace, but that every one should build a new Habitation for themselves: He also erected divers Golden Idols.
[Sidenote: Yaguarguoqu the second Inga.]
[Sidenote: Viracocha Inga his great Riches.]
Some Authors begin this Dynastie of the Kings of Peru in a very different manner, making Mango Capa to be the first thereof, and to have been Succeeded by his Son Chincaroca, which cannot but be the same with this Ingaroca here mention’d. Yaguarguoqu (that is, Crier of Blood, because on a time being Commander, and taken Prisoner, out of vexation and exceeding grief he cried Blood). Succeeding him after his Death, rais’d the Family Aocaillipanaca, and was Succeeded by his eldest Son, the wealthy Viracocha Inga, of whom, when the Spaniards conquer’d Peru, went a Report, that great Riches lay buried in the Earth with him; wherefore Gonzalus Pizarrus tortur’d the Natives after an inhumane manner, to know of them where the Grave of the said Inga was; at last obtaining his Desire, he digg’d for the Body, which he found so well Embalm’d, that it seem’d to live, but no Gold with it; wherefore Pizarrus deceiv’d in his expectation, burnt the Corps; the Ashes whereof the Indians gathering in Urns, worshipp’d, though when he liv’d the Vulgar were much incens’d at him, for taking upon him the Name of Viracocha, who was their supream God and Creator of all things; but he pacifi’d them, saying, That Viracocha appearing to him in a Dream, had commanded him to take that Name upon him.
[Sidenote: Yupangui’s Policy to gain an Opinion amongst the People.]
[Sidenote: Gross superstition.]
The fourth Inga, call’d Pachacuto Yupangui succeeded in the Throne after the Death of his eldest Brother, who was slain in a Field-Battel against the Changas, inhabiting the Valley Andaguailas, where the Peruan Army was utterly defeated, few of them onely escaping by flight; among whom was Yupangui, who perswaded the rest to a subtile Design, by alledging, That the Almighty Creator, angry at their Destruction, had reveal’d many Secrets to him, viz. That the Creator in Heaven was call’d Viracocha Pachayachachie; That he resented it very ill; That whereas he formerly made Heaven, Sun, Moon, Stars, and Men, none worshipp’d him for it, but in stead of him they reverenc’d the Sun, Thunder, and the Earth, who had their Beings from him; That he would shew his Power against the victorious Changas by an unexpected Assistance of an invisible Army. This being believ’d of every one, stirr’d up the Peruans far and near, insomuch that in a short time a vast Army being rais’d, presented themselves to Yupangui, who made good use thereof; and also told them that Viracocha had decreed in Heaven, that he Yupangui should be his Vicegerent on Earth; which the Army believing, set the Peruan Crown which they had taken from his Father, on his Head: Thus promoted, he march’d against the Changas, whom in a bloody Battel he Conquer’d, and brought them all under his Obedience: Moreover, he made his Soldiers believe, that they were not the Conquerors, but invisible Men, whom Viracocha had sent, and who could be seen by none but himself; and that after the Battel they were turn’d into Stones, which they must seek for. Whereupon they gathering a great number of Stones on the Mountains, Yupangui call’d them Pururancas, and order’d that they should be worshipp’d, and carried with them into the Field whensoe’re they fought another Battel, hoping thereby to stir up his Soldiers to be couragious, who firmly believ’d, that with the visible Stones walk’d invisible Heroes that would certainly assist them. This Imagination wrought so much, that Yupangui’s Army assur’d of Victory with the help of the Stones, went on undauntedly on all Designs, insomuch that being fear’d by all the adjacent People, he forc’d them all to submission. This Yupangui rais’d the Family Yuaupococa, and plac’d a great Golden Image call’d Indyllapa on a Golden Chariot, which since was religiously worshipp’d, and afterwards carried to Caxamalca, for a Ransom of the Peruvian King Attabaliba, whom the Spanish General Pizarrus kept Prisoner, and at last Strangled. The Councellor Polus opening Yupangui’s Grave, found the Body Embalm’d, and no way defaced, but the Eyes cover’d with thin Golden Plates, and on his Head appear’d the Scar of a Stone which had been thrown at him; and though the Body had lain eighty years in the Grave, yet it seem’d rather living than dead, being onely a little grey. This Corps, as also several other Inga’s, the Marquess Camette brought from Cusco to Lima, so to prevent the Peruvians worshipping of them.
[Sidenote: The Greatness and Riches of Guayacava.]
Yupangui after his Decease was succeeded by Sopa Inga, and he by his Son of the same Name, who rais’d the Family Ayoac Aillo: The last (for nothing worthy of memory was done by either of them,) was succeeded by Guaynacava, a wealthy and valiant young Man, who was no sooner setled on the Throne, but he manag’d all things with great prudence, maintain’d War with several People, and conquer’d the Kingdom of Quito, four hundred Leagues beyond Cusco, whither after his Death his Body was carried, and buried in the famous Temple of the Sun, but his Entrails were buried in Quito not without many bloody Offerings, thousands of his Servants Sacrificing themselves at his Grave willingly, that so they might serve their Prince in the other World. The invaluable Treasures which he left behind him were carefully hid by the Peruvians till the Spaniards conquer’d that Countrey: The pav’d Ways, magnificent Buildings, and strong Castles, testifie as yet the Power of this Inga; wherefore in his life-time he was honor’d as a God. His Mother Mamaoclo liv’d to see above three hundred of her Children’s Children, all Extracted from her Son Guaynacava.
[Sidenote: War between Huascar and his Brother Attabaliba.]
[Sidenote: Huascar burnt alive.]
The chief of the Family Tanebamba were Huascar and Attabaliba, Sons to Guaynacava, (both by the Coya, or lawful Queen, however some have deliver’d to the contrary) who falling at variance betwixt themselves, resolv’d to decide the Quarrel by a Field-Battel, in which Attabaliba, being the youngest, was Conqueror. This Civil War was at the heighth when the Spaniards invaded Peru, which they could never have conquer’d, had not the Realm been so divided. During Attabaliba’s Imprisonment by Pizarrus, his two Generals, Quizaniz and Chilicuchima, took the Inga Huascar (formerly call’d Tito Cusi Gualpa, Attabaliba’s Brother) in Cusco, and carrying him to the Valley Sacsahuana, burnt him alive. It is set down as remarkable, that Huascar after his being vanquish’d, made great Offerings to Viracocha, thereby to gain his assistance in his extremity against Attabaliba; when he was inform’d, that a strange People which came from a remote Place over the Seas, had defeated Attabaliba’s Army, and taken him Prisoner: From which News Huascar taking courage, call’d the Spaniards Viracochas, and judg’d that they were come from Heaven to his Delivery, and the more, because his Brother had spilt so much Blood already: for Attabaliba had not onely slain the Prince Atoco, which led Huascar’s Army, with three thousand two hundred Men, and drank out of Atoco’s Skull tipt with Gold, but had also pluck’d out the Harts of above a thousand Children, which the Cannarites sent with Palm-Boughs to him, to desire Peace.
[Sidenote: Mango Inga Settles in the Mountain Vilcabamba.]
After Attabaliba’s and Huascar’s Decease, Mango Inga their Brother drove all the Spaniards out of Cusco, whither they not long after coming with new Forces, necessitated Mango, not without the loss of many Men, to take his flight up into the Mountain Vilcabamba, where he Setling, his Successors Reign to this day, secur’d from any Invasion by the natural strength of the Place. But the Inga Saritopa coming from the fore-mention’d Mountain, submitted himself to the Spaniards, who allow’d him the Valley Yucay to dwell peaceably in; but the rest of the Family of the Inga’s that fell into the Hands of the Spaniards, were all of them kill’d in Cusco, not without great grief of the old Inhabitants, to see so antient and noble a Family, by which they had been Govern’d in great State for three hundred years together, put to death by common Executioners.
[Sidenote: Cusco the Residence of the Peruvian Kings.]
The City Cusco, which was the Royal Seat of all the Peruvian Kings, was made more splendid than ever before, by Guayanacava, of whom Augustine de Tarrate, describing his Magnificence, relates, That when his Queen was Deliver’d of a Son, who was to succeed in the Throne, Guayanacava kept a great Feast for twenty days together, and on that day when the Child was to be Nam’d, a Golden Chain, each Link of which was as big as a Hand, and contain’d in all seven hundred Foot in length, was carried by twenty Peruvians to the Temple.
[Sidenote: The manner of the Succession of their Kings.]
The Succession of the Inga’s was after this manner: The Inga’s keeping many Concubines had many Children by them, none of which could lay claim to the Peruvian Crown, but onely the Son begotten on the Coya, or Queen, being generally the Kings own Sister, (whom they accounted lawful for them to Marry, as in antient times did the Egyptian Kings) Inherited the Realm, unless the Inga had a lawful Brother, who Inherited before the Son, though born of a Coya; or if the said Brother had a Son, he obtain’d the deceased Uncles Crown before him, who in apparence was the elder Heir.
The same Succession was also observ’d by other Governors, which the Peruvians call Curaca’s.
[Sidenote: Their Burials and disposal of their Treasure.]
The Burials of their Kings were perform’d with great solemnity; and the Treasures which they left behind were bestow’d in building of magnificent Guaha’s, which were Temples or religious Houses, where a kind of solemn Worship was to be perform’d, to celebrate the Memory of the Deceased. Some part of the Treasure was also distributed amongst the Inga’s Servants; but the Successor inherited not the least Mite of what his Predecessor had gotten, but was forc’d, according to an antient Law, to build himself a new Palace, and purchas’d anew every thing else belonging to it.
[Sidenote: Their Crown.]
Their Crown or Diadem was onely a fine red woollen Coif with a Tassel, that hung down over their Foreheads, which other meaner Princes wore hanging on their right Ear.
[Sidenote: Their Coronations.]
Their Coronations were also kept in great Pomp and State, the Nobility and Priests coming from all parts of the Countrey to Cusco, besides an innumerable multitude of common People.
The Noblemens Presents to the Inga’s consisted chiefly of Gold and Silver Vessels, fine Cloth call’d Cumbi, all sorts of Sea-shells, and stately Plumes of Feathers of inestimable value.
Thousands of Sheep differing in colour serv’d for Offerings: moreover, the Chief Priest sacrific’d a Child before the Image of Viracocha, on whom with great Reverence he cry’d, O great God Viracocha, we Offer you this Child, that you may keep our Realm in Peace, aid us in time of War, prosper our Inga in all his Undertakings, make him more powerful and greater than any of his Predecessors, and grant him wisdom to Govern this vast Countrey.
[Sidenote: Their exact Form of Government.]
No People in the World can be more respective, and shew greater Reverence to their Kings, than the Peruvians: for there were never any heard of in this Countrey that ever Rebell’d against their Prince; the reason of which was chiefly, because they always Govern’d with great Justice and Mildness, placing Governors over the respective Countreys and Provinces, according to their several Divisions, greater or lesser, with subordinate Power one under another, so that they Rul’d with great strictness, punishing with Death both Drunkenness and Theft. Moreover, the Ingas observ’d a prudent way in Government, viz. They kept their Subjects continually employ’d: The ordinary sort of Persons of subdu’d Provinces were sent to remote Countreys, and the Governors thereof kept at the Court in Cusco; and Princes Descended of the Royal Blood sent in their Places to Govern the new gotten Dominions: they divided the Inhabitants into Companies, plac’d one to Command over ten, another over a hundred, and a greater Officer over a thousand, and at last a Prefect or Major-General, over ten thousand; every one of which Officers were to bring in an Account every Week to the supream Governor, who was always of the Inga’s Family, what Men dy’d of their number, or how many were born, a present Estimate of every ones Stock, in Cattel or otherwise, and all remarkable Transactions that hapned. On the high Feast-day they were all to appear at Court, and to bring in the Revenues gather’d out of their Substitute Countreys. The main Division of the Countrey was into four grand Provinces, call’d Tahucantinsuyos, according to the four Ways that went from Cusco through the whole Realm, viz. Chinchasuyo towards the North, Coclasuyo towards the South, Andesuyo towards the East, and Condesuyo towards the West. The Collectors were divided into Hanansayos, Upper-Collectors, and Urinsayos, or Under-Collectors. The Quipocomayos, or Accomptants, could cast up exactly with Buttons, not onely what every Province, but also what each Man was to pay, and that according to the ability of the Countrey and Person.
[Sidenote: Their stately Structures.]
Many were the stately Temples, invincible Castles, magnificent Palaces, and other wonderful Structures built by the Ingas, the chiefest whereof stood in Cusco, Tiaguanaco, and Tambo; the Builders whereof were sent for by turns out of the adjacent Countreys, from which they brought exceeding great Stones, most of them thirty eight Foot long, eighteen broad, and six thick, which were so neatly joyn’d together with Mortar or Iron-work, that a whole Edifice seem’d to be one entire Stone. Their Bridges that led cross the Rivers were made of Flags and Rushes, fastned to each Shore with great Ropes. The like Bridge lay cross the deep Mouth of the Lake Chicuito, on which great Bundles of the Rushes Toto being ty’d together, and cover’d with Straw, so strengthen’d the Bridge, that great Loads were safely carried over the same.
[Sidenote: The great Riches of the Ingas.]
No Prince ever possess’d so much Riches and Splendor as an Inga of Peru, each Countrey presenting him with what was most esteem’d amongst them; the Chiches bringing Sweet-woods; the Lucanas, strong Sedan-Carriers; the Chumbibilcas, brave Dancers; and so accordingly every Countrey provided him with what they best esteem’d, besides the usual Tributes which they paid.
Those which digg’d the Gold and Silver out of the Mines, had Meat, Drink, and Clothing from the Inga, though at other times he enjoy’d the Labors of his Subjects for nothing.
[Sidenote: Their several sorts of Tribute from conquer’d Countreys.]
When at any time he conquer’d a Countrey by force of Arms, he made them pay from three several sorts of Tribute; the first was bestow’d in religious Offices. Each Guaca or Chappel receiv’d also a Revenue from the late conquer’d Countreys, the Fruit of which serv’d for Offerings to their chief God Pachayachachu, the Sun, their Thunderer Chuquilla, and to the Souls of the Deceased, and for Food for the Priests. The Religion through the whole Realm agreed with that which was observ’d in Cusco. But the second Tribute fell to the Inga’s Family, or Relation and Soldiers. Those who Till’d the Inga’s Ground, Sung before him in Festival Clothes. That which could not be spent in the Court was laid up in Store-houses for ten years together, against a scarcity should happen. Aged People, Widows, and such as were decrepid, paid no Tribute. The third part was for the Poor, which had every Year a piece of Ground allow’d them to make use of as they pleas’d. In unfruitful Years they receiv’d an Allowance out of the Store-houses before mention’d.
[Sidenote: Their Provision for the Poor.]
So likewise the Pasture, Meadows, and Arable Land was order’d for three several Uses, one third for religious Uses, a second for the Inga’s, and the last for the Poor. The Sheep being shorn on a certain Day, yielded the Poor a certain quantity of Wooll to make them Clothes. As soon as any Beast grew Mangy (which the Peruvians call’d Carache) they burnt them alive, so to prevent the spreading of it farther. Those that belong’d to the Inga’s Family, wore all Clothes made of the finest Wooll, and the coursest, call’d Tabasca, was distributed among the Vulgar.
[Sidenote: Their Industry.]
Besides this good Order of Government, it is wonderful to observe the Peruvians manner of Living, each learning from their Infancy not onely a Trade, but all things which they accounted necessary in House-keeping, as Weaving, Tilling of Land, building of Houses, and making of Tools requisite for both; so that they never made use of one another on any Account. Moreover, Master Artists, who work’d more for Pleasure than Gain, dwelt apart, being Silver-smiths, Painters, Musicians, and Dancers.
[Sidenote: Their Habits.]
Their Habits were heretofore of one fashion through the whole Realm, onely the Covering of their Heads were several, by which the People of one Countrey were distinguish’d from the other, according to an inviolable Law made many Ages since; some therefore wore thin Caps, others broad Pleits, others little Hats, others round Bonnets, others woven Caps, and the like.
[Sidenote: Their Post-Stages.]
Their Post-Stages, call’d Chasquis, were little Houses, each standing a League and a half from one another, wherein dwelt certain Officers, who with extraordinary speed convey’d the Inga’s Letters from one Chasquis to the other; after which manner in two days time they convey’d a Letter a hundred Leagues. But since the Spaniards conquer’d this Countrey, that Convenience was lost, till the tenth Peruvian Vice-Roy Martin Enriques re-establish’d the same; for he allow’d a Sallary to those Posts, that they might with speed convey all Letters and Packets from one to the other, being distant, according to his Establishment, four Leagues.
[Sidenote: Their severe Laws against Malefactors.]
Lastly, the Ingas maintain’d strict Laws in criminal Affairs; for as they did not neglect to encourage noble Atchievements (for whoe’re had done a valiant Act in the Wars, was made Governor of a Countrey, or had a certain quantity of Land given him, or Married one of the Inga’s Family;) so likewise they severely punish’d all Malefactors: for Murderers, Thieves, and Adulterers suffer’d Death without Mercy; yet they allow’d store of Concubines, and it was free for any one to Lie with his Neighbor’s Concubine, but Death to have to do with any Man’s lawful Wife, who were serv’d by the Concubines.
[Sidenote: Their Marriages.]
When a Bridegroom Betrothed himself to his Bride, he gave her (and put them on himself) a pair of Shoes call’d Ajota, not unlike those of a grey Fryer, which were lin’d with Cotton if she were a Maid, but with Leaves if a Widow, who nevertheless being generally younger than the Man, was to Mourn a whole year in Black for her deceased Husband; till the expiration of which time she was not to Marry another. Governors of Provinces and other Officers of State receiv’d their Wives from the Ingas, who enquiring out the beautifullest and most accomplish’d Virgins they could hear of, put the Ajota on their Feet, and gave them to such Persons as they most fancied; after which if they committed Adultery they were certainly put to death. The Marrying of Brothers and Sisters was also forbid, till the Inga Topa Yupangui, Father to Guaynacava broke that Law, by Marrying his own Sister Mamoello, and made an Order that the Ingas onely should have that liberty; nay, when he lay on his Death-bed, he strictly charg’d his Son Guaynacava to take his own Sister Goya Cuissilmay to Wife; and this incestuous Marriage produc’d Huascar and Attabaliba, (though some say Attabaliba was begotten on a Concubine) in whose time the Peruvian Kingdom went to ruine. Guaynacava also permitted the common People to Marry their Sisters of the Fathers side, but not of the Mothers.
[Sidenote: Their manner of living.]
The Peruvian Houses were antiently for the most part light and small; and for their Table they made but little preparation, satisfying themselves with a little Beer made of Rice, Bread bak’d of Maiz, dry’d Flesh, Fish, and Roots.
In their Wars they us’d Slings, Darts, Arrows, Lances, Pikes, Halberds, Pole-Axes, and Shields.
[Sidenote: Their Funerals.]
Their Funerals were also solemnly kept, especially those of Persons of Quality, the Corps was carried out on a brave Chair, from which he was put into the Ground, with two of his Concubines whom he best affected, and also three Servants, Gold and Silver Vessels, Maiz, and the Liquor Chica, which the nearest Relation spurted into his Mouth through a Cane; all which they did that the Deceased might make use thereof in the other World. But before the Funeral the Relations Mourn’d over the Corps several days, and after the Body was Interr’d, they plac’d the Picture of the Deceased upon the Grave: but the meaner sort of People had the Tools belonging to their Trade; and Soldiers their Arms plac’d on the same.
[Sidenote: Their Religion.]
In their Religion they had various Fancies; their prime God Viracocha bore several Denominations, and amongst others he was call’d Pacachame, or Pachayachachick, by which he was signifi’d to be the Creator of Heaven and Earth; as also Usapu, that is, Wonderful. In honor to this Pacachama stood formerly a magnificent Temple about four Leagues from Lima, where the Ruines still manifest its former glory, it being the Place where the Devil answer’d the Priests, who stood with their Backs towards the Image of Pacochame, bowing their Heads to the Ground, and showing many antick Tricks. The second Temple stood near Cusco, in which the Inga’s had plac’d the Images of all the Gods and Goddesses that were worshipp’d in Peru; and before each Image stood an Altar: the chiefest of them, call’d Puachao, consisting of massie Gold, was Dedicated to the Sun, on whose Forehead the Sun was Engraven on a Plate, which afterwards fell into the Hands of the Spanish Captain Mancius Sierra de Lequizamo; but because he lost the same one Night at Gaming, this Proverb was rais’d upon it, Lequizamo lost the Sun before it rose, because he got the Plate on which the Sun was Engraven in the Afternoon, and lost the same in the Night: The Temple it self, built of great Stones, curiously joyn’d together in Mosaick Work, and within link’d with Golden Plates of a Finger thick, stood full of Golden Chappels and Altars; round about it were several Galleries, into which the Priests and Priestesses Chambers open’d. Near the River Ticiquaque a third Temple, Consecrated to the Sun.
[Sidenote: The various Idolatry of the Peruvians.]
This kind of Idolatry was common to the Peruvians, with several other Nations of the antient Heathens, as hath been before observ’d, which made them mock at the Spaniards when they told them of a Crucifi’d Saviour, saying they had a splendid God, who appear’d to them in glory every Morning. In the third Temple near the River Taciquaque in Peru, which exceeded the other two, they worshipp’d Thunder by the Name of Chuquilla, Catuilla, and Intillapa, which the Peruvians believ’d to be a Man that Commanded the Air, and who being Arm’d with a Club and Sling, throws down Rain, Hail, and Snow from the Clouds, and shooting Bullets through the lower Region, causes Thunder and Lightning: They worshipp’d him after the same manner as they did Viracocha and the Sun, with holding up of a thing like a Glove, and sometimes Offering, especially in Cusco, living Children: Also they ador’d the Earth of which they made the Goddess Bathamama; also Mamacocha, the God of the Sea. The Rainbowe, which the Ingas carried between two Serpents for their Arms, was also religiously worshipp’d. Amongst the Stars they imagin’d Colca, by us call’d Aries, or the Ram, as chief; yet held several others of peculiar Denomination, in veneration, of which they crav’d such things as they wanted. The Shepherds ador’d the Star Nereuchilla or Capricorn, whom they judge to Rule over the Beasts. Others worshipp’d Machacuay which the European Astronomers call the Serpent, as commanding Serpents and Dragons, that they might receive no hurt from them. Tygers, Lyons, and Bears, were Rul’d by the Star Chuquichinchag; wherefore those who would walk free from those ravenous Beasts, lifted up folded Hands to the Constellations representing the same. They believ’d that there was no Creature living on Earth, whole Likeness the Heavens could not afford; and that those which were on Earth were under the influence of those in Heaven: from hence proceeded the Names of the Stars Chacana, Topatatca, Mamana, Mirma, and others. They likewise attributed a kind of Divinity to Fountains, Rivers, Rocks, Mountains, some kinds of Herbs, Roots, and especially the Papas, of a strange shape, and had a veneration for all manner of Creatures that were of an unusual form. When they travel’d they strew’d Shoes, Plumes of Feathers, and Cocoa in all cross Ways and tops of Hills, by them call’d Apachitas; and if they want the fore-mention’d things, then they throw a Stone for an Offering, from whence it proceeds, that in all cross Ways, and on the tops of Hills, lie heaps of Stones, which are accounted holy.
The like fond veneration of Stones the Saracens are said antiently to have had, upon a Tradition, That Abraham had enjoy’d Agar upon a Stone, and that according to Euthymius and Libanius, he ty’d his Cammel to a Stone when he went to Offer his Son Isaac.
The Images of their deceased Ingas, which they call’d Guaoiqui, were had in great honor, and carried with them to the Wars, and up and down in Processionings, and call’d upon for fruitful Seasons.
[Sidenote: The Peruvians believ’d the Immortality of the Soul.]
The Immortality of the Soul, the giving of Punishments to the Wicked, and of Rewards to those that do well, was generally believ’d amongst the Peruvians, but not the Resurrection of the Dead. Many suffer’d themselves to be buried with their Friends, that they might accompany them to the other World. When the Inga Guaynacava was buried, above a thousand of his Courtiers Sung several Songs, kept a great Feast, and went with great joy to be buried with him, that so they might serve their King on the other side of the Mountains. They Offer’d likewise a great number of Children, and with their Blood cross’d their Faces from one Ear to another: But this barbarous Offering was never us’d but at the Death of prime Persons of Quality; for the meaner sort of People set onely Meat on the Graves, and gave the Dead two Sutes of Apparel, put Money in their Mouthes and Hands; for they believ’d that the Souls ranging up and down from place to place, suffer’d many inconveniences.
[Sidenote: Their Oracle.]
[Sidenote: Their Nunneries.]
[Sidenote: Their Offerings.]
The Peruvian Images consisted generally of Gold, Silver, Stone, or Wood, all of them strangely deform’d: Some of them were said to give Responces like the Oracle at Delphos and Dodona, chiefly in the Temple Pacachama, whose greatness is sufficiently manifest by the Ruines of its Walls beyond Lima, where Franciscus Pizarrus got an invaluable Treasure. Each Peruvian Province had a Temple, besides which, in the Cities, Villages, and Hamlets, were Chappels of Ease, into which the Priests went at Night with their Backs towards the Idol, bended Heads and Bodies; in which posture they requested to know future Events, and were many times answer’d (if we may believe their Reports) in a terrible Voice. The great Temple at Cusco, wherein the Ingas had plac’d all the Peruvian Idols, is now turn’d into a Dominican Cloyster. In each Province of Peru was also a Nunnery (if we may so term it) or Habitation of devoted Virgins, call’d Allaguau, i.e. A House of the Choicest, over which Was plac’d a Governor nam’d Appopanaca, to whom none durst deny their Daughters; some of which were styl’d Wives of the Sun, and others Servant-Maids to the same: The Wives Cloth’d in Embroyder’d Coats, adorn’d the Temple, whilest the Maids kept clean the Walls and Floor. When they attain’d to fourteen Years of Age, some were chosen out from the rest, and oblig’d to perpetual Virginity and solitude of Life in their Chappels; which sacred Obligation if they broke by suffering any to Lie with them, they were buried alive after the manner of the Vestal Virgins, the Ceremony whereof is related by Plutarch: Others were oblig’d to make daily Offerings; others to make peculiar Sacrifices for the Inga’s Health, and happy Events in War; many also were employ’d in the Court Service to wait upon the Inga’s Wife or Concubines; and those being absolv’d from their Vow, were oft-times Married to Courtiers. These Nunneries were Endow’d with great Revenues from the Chacaras, or Church-Lands. Their Offerings were (for sometimes they Offer’d to their Idols the highly esteem’d Herb Cocoa, Maiz, several colour’d Plumes, Sea-Monsters, Gold and Silver Images of Beasts, fine Clothes call’d Cumbi, Sweet-wood, and Tallow to burn) either to have success in their Journeys, Trades, or for the preservation of Health, or to obtain a plentiful Harvest. But their usual Offerings were Cuces, a sort of Toads, which were eaten by the Peruvians. When they were to do any Business of consequence, then Persons of Quality kill’d their Sheep Pacos, not without strange observation of the colour and number of them, as also of the time; all which things well consider’d, they cook the Sheep and laid it cross their right Arm, turn’d the Face thereof towards the Sun, and mutter’d several words to themselves according to the colour; for if it was spotted grey, they spoke to Chuquilla, or Thunder; if white and short Fleec’d, to the Sun; if well Fleec’d, to Viracocha. In Cusco they Offer’d daily a short-fleec’d Sheep to the Sun in this manner: Making a great Fire call’d Vibbacaronca, the Priests threw the Sheep and four Baskets of Cocoa into it. Their Sacrifices Cozocovicca and Sapovicca, to obtain Conquests, were also very strange: for they gather’d out of Puna (which is a desolate place) several sorts of Brambles and Bushes nam’d Ganilli, which being all set on fire, they went about the Fire with round Stones in their Hands, on which were painted Serpents, Lyons, Toads, and Tygers, crying, Usachum, grant us Conquest, together with this Prayer, Destroy, O Creator, the power of our Enemies Gods; which said, several starv’d Sheep were brought out, which for that reason they call’d Urca; whose Hearts having torn out they began their Prayers afresh, saying, Mighty Viracocha, thus do thou pull out the Hearts of our Enemies. For the prosperity of the Ingas they kill’d in an open Field black Dogs, by them call’d Appurucos, whose Flesh was eaten with many Ceremonies by People appointed for that purpose. They made Offerings also to the Fountains, Rivers, Brooks, and Sea-shells, under pretence that those Shells were Daughters of the Ocean, and the Ocean the Father of Streams and Springs; when they had Sow’n their Fields, their Priests, chose to that Office, went from House to House to gather such Offerings as every one was pleas’d to give; which they laid at the Banks of several Sluces, at the time when the Water began to rise there, thinking by that Oblation to keep them from over-flowing their Lands, and washing away their Seed. In all places where two Rivers joyn’d together they wash’d themselves, having first bedaub’d themselves all over with stamp’d Maiz, and afterwards look’d upon themselves as well purg’d from Sin; which power they ascrib’d to their Baths. To strangle Children between four and ten years of Age was never us’d, unless upon the Inga’s being sick, or when he receiv’d the Royal Tassel, that from the death of the Children he might receive Health, or Reign prosperously. The fore-mention’d Nuns that were chose to attend on the King’s, were also strangled when the Inga was sick; nay, sometimes a Father would Offer his Son to Viracocha, on the Sun-Priest’s suggestion, That by his Son’s death he would recover from his Sickness, Praying to the foremention’d Deity, that they would be pleas’d to save the sick Father, because the Son had with his Death paid for his Fathers.
This kind of Cruelty the Devil seem’d to prompt the Heathens to, by making use of Abraham’s Example, who prepar’d his Son Isaac for a Sacrifice on Mount Moria; and that it was a Practice amongst the antient Ammonites and Moabites, and other Heathens (by which even the Children of Israel were apt to be seduc’d) appears from the Scripture it self: the Ceremonies of which bruitish Customs, with the seven Brazen Chambers of Moloch, may be seen describ’d by Rabbi Solomon.
[Sidenote: Their High Feasts.]
The high Feast Capacrayne, which the Peruvians kept in the first Moneth Rayme, agreeing with our December, deserves serious observation: for as long as the Feast lasted, no Stranger was suffer’d to Lodge in Cusco, whither they all flock’d again after the Feast was over, to receive Cakes made by the Mamaconas (an Order of Nuns) of Maiz and the warm Blood of a white Ram, and were distributed by certain Priests (Extracted from the Royal Family Iluqui Yupangui) who carrying them up and down in Golden Dishes, gave every one of a Company one, saying at the delivery of it, If you do not Reverence the Sun and Inga, this Food will witness against you to your Ruine; but if you worship them, then their Bodies will by this Pledge be united to yours: after which those that had eaten of the Cakes promis’d Obedience, and thank’d the Sun and Inga for their Food.
[Sidenote: Their Manner of Confessions.]
[Sidenote: Their Penances.]
[Sidenote: The Esteem of their Soothsayers.]
At the fore-mention’d Chasquis a course was taken to carry all that desir’d, to every Temple through the whole Kingdom of Peru, where the Inhabitants receiv’d them with great Reverence, having before confess’d all their sins to their Yaburies, or Father-Confessors, who being chosen to that Office with a great deal of Ceremony, impos’d greater or lesser Penances, according to the sins of the Penitent: those that were suspected to have conceal’d any of their sins, were put to cast Lots, or had the Entrails of the Beasts which they had kill’d to that purpose consulted about them, and thereby were discover’d if they had conceal’d any of their sins; which whenever it hapned, the Priests falling upon the false Penitents, thump’d them with a Stone on their Backs so long, till they had confess’d all their Faults, which the Priest was not to reveal on pain of Death, but to make Expiatory Offerings. The sins about which they were Examin’d, were chiefly Theft, Murder, Adultery, preparing of Poyson, or sleighting their Inga or Gods; for each of which Transgressions they had several kinds of Punishments. When the Inga fell sick, all People in general were forc’d to come and make Confession of their sins; also every one went to his Confessor when he was in trouble, or expected some Misfortune to befall him: The Inga himself Confess’d his sins to none but the Sun, which he desir’d to relate to Viracocha, and to beg pardon of him for the same; which done, he bath’d himself in a running Stream, and cry’d, I have made my sins known to thee, O Sun; do thou, O River, wash away mine Iniquities, and discharge them into the Sea, that they may never be more laid to my charge: which custom of Bathing, call’d Opacuna, was also us’d by all other Penitents. A Father losing his Son by Death, was censur’d for a great Sinner, wherefore he could not be permitted to be Confess’d before he had been whipp’d with Nettles by a certain ill-look’d Officer appointed for that end; after which their Fathers Ychuris enjoyn’d such Penances as they thought fit; some were order’d to last several days; others to pay rich Garments, Silver, Gold, or the like; others receiv’d a certain number of Blows; some were condemn’d to live on the Mountains, excluded from the society of all Men. If their Sorcerers at any time foretold a Fathers Death, then he immediately Sacrifis’d his Son, that with his Death he might buy his own Life. No People were more respected than their Soothsayers, as Men that could discover private Thefts, Accidents that hapned in remote Countreys, and also future Events, and so far their Credit amongst the Vulgar carried them, that they undertook to tell the Spaniards when their Countrey-men should be Conquerors, and when defeated in the War they maintain’d against the Netherlanders. There were also cunning Women, who making themselves dead Drunk with Chica, with which they mix’d the Herb Viloa, and afterwards coming to themselves again, answer’d all the Questions that were proposed to them.
[Sidenote: Their monthly Feasts.]
The Peruvians kept two sorts of Feasts, the first at certain times, the others on special occasions; the set-Feasts were kept Monethly; on the first Moneth Rayme, agreeing with our last Moneth December, as aforesaid, they kept the great Feast Capacrayme, on which they brought Multitudes of Sheep and Lambs for Burnt-offerings, besides Silver and Gold. Not far from the Fire stood three Carv’d Images of the Sun, and three others representing Thunder; and this was generally the Day of the Installation of the young Inga’s, which was after this manner: The chief Priest boring a Hole through his Ear, cover’d the upper part of his Body with the holy Cloth Guaras, whilest the inferior Priests whipt him with knotted Cords, and painted his Face with the Blood. During these Ceremonies no Stranger was suffer’d to remain in Cusco, but after the Feast was ended they all return’d, and as before, receiv’d Cakes bak’d of Maiz and Blood, as a testimony that they lov’d and honor’d the Inga.
[Sidenote: Their Harvest Ceremonies.]
[Sidenote: Their Feast Ytri.]
The three Images of the Sun before-mention’d they call’d Apointi, Churiunti, and Intiquaoqui, that is, Father-Sun, Son-Sun, and Brother-Sun. In like manner they nam’d the three Images of Thunder, Chuquilla, Catuilla, and Intillapa; from which Acosta judges that the Devil had obscurely taught the Peruvians the Mysteries of the holy Sacrament and Trinity, (that their glory might be eclips’d by Idolatrous Errors) especially the last, which seems plainly to be signifi’d by the Peruvian Deity Tangatanga, whom they affirm’d to be One in Three, and Three in One. And that other Nations also had a glimpse of the same may be collected from Philip Cluverius, who endeavors to demonstrate, that the antient Germans and Gauls obscurely ador’d the Trinity in the midst of their Heathenism, under the notion of Sun, Moon, and Fire, the Sun signifying the Father, the Moon the Son, and the Fire the Holy-Ghost; to confirm which he makes use of Cæsar’s Testimony, viz. They onely esteem those Gods whom they see, and those that assist them, viz. the Sun, Vulcan, and the Moon; for they have never heard any thing concerning any other Gods. Diodorus Siculus seems also to ascribe a glimpse of this Mystery to the Egyptians, when he says, That the antientest People in Egypt, when they view’d the World, and were amaz’d at all things on the Earth, they judg’d that two Gods Govern’d them all, viz. the Sun and Moon, by whom all things flourish’d and encreas’d; to whom they added a third, namely Fire, to which they attributed a Divinity, as conducing much to the increase and growth of all things. The Moon, which was also call’d Juno, they judg’d to be the Offspring of God, (for Son and Daughter were promiscuously taken) who, according to Homer, Marrying with Jupiter, brought forth Vulcan, which might haply be to them a Type or Figure of the Holy-Ghost, proceeding from the Father and Son: Vulcan was by her plac’d a President over the Fire, by which the Heathens seem’d to imitate the fiery Power of the Holy-Ghost, purifying and cleansing all things: and this cleansing Power was aim’d at by Romulus, when, according to Dionysius Halicarnassensis, he commanded his Soldiers to leap through a Fire made before his Tent, that so they might be purifi’d from all their Crimes. But it may be thought strange, that the Peruvians, Germans, or Egyptians, lost in a Wood of gross Idolatry, could have any apprehension, though never so obscure, of the holy Trinity, when as the most nice and curious Greek and Roman Wits have made such gross mistakes concerning God. But to return again to the Peruvians: They kept their second Feast in the second Moneth Camay, on which they threw the Ashes of their Offerings into the River, and follow’d them on the Shore for the space of five Leagues, praying the River to carry the Ashes to the Sea, where Viracocha would receive them. In the third and fourth Moneths they kill’d a hundred and ten black spotted and grey Sheep. In the beginning of May (by the Peruvians call’d Hatuncuzqui) they gather’d in their Maiz, and kept the Feast Aymorai; after which they return’d home Singing from their Fields, call’d Chacra, and carried a great heap of Maiz with them, nam’d Perua, wrapping it up in rich Garments; three Nights they continu’d their Ceremonies, imploring the Perua to preserve their Harvest of Maiz from any damage that might chance to come to it, and also to let that grow prosperously which they should Plant next. Lastly, their Sorcerers consulted whether the Perua could last till the next year? to which if they were answer’d No, they carried it into the Fields, and burning it, made a new Perua, which when they knew to be sufficient to last good a year, they carried it to the Granary in great triumph. In the seventh Moneth Ancayacuzqui, they kept the Feast call’d Intraymi, with a hundred Sheep, in honor of the Sun. They also made several Images of the Wood Quimia, which they put in rich Habits, strew’d the Ways with Flowers, Danc’d a strange Dance nam’d Cayo, Singing several Songs. Persons of Quality put Golden Plates about their Knees, as the common People painted them with divers Colours. In the eighth Moneth Chahua they kept the high Feast Huarqui, on which they Offer’d a hundred grey Sheep; the like number, but of a Chesnut colour, they Offer’d the following Moneth Yupaquis, besides a thousand Cuies, that the Air, Water, or Sun, might not spoil their Plants. Their Feast Situa they kept on the tenth Moneth Coyaraymi after this manner: They gather’d all together on the first day before the Moon rose, which no sooner appear’d, but they made a terrible noise, beat one another with lighted Torches, then wash’d the Dirt from their Bodies, and made themselves Drunk for four Days together. The eleventh Moneth Armaraimi, was nam’d Punchaiquis, from the Feast they kept therein, on which (besides the usual Offerings of eight hundred Sheep) they ty’d a black Sheep to a Post without Meat, till such time as there fell store of Dew. Their Feast call’d Raymicantara Raiquis, was kept in the last Moneth Ayamara, on which their Youth were bor’d through the Ears. Amongst the high Feasts which were kept on great occasions, the chiefest was Ytri, against which they all made new Clothes after a peculiar fashion, wearing their Cloaks muffled about their Heads; in which manner they walked leisurely a whole Day and a Night; during which time none durst either Eat or Drink, or open his Eyes: But after this serious Processioning follow’d four days of extravagancy, as Drinking, Dancing, and the like. In their Dances, which were to the sound of Drums, Pipes, and Horns, they imitated all manner of Trades by strange motions of their Bodies, besides divers other Frolicks and May-games which they us’d at such times of Mirth and Festivity: But since the Spaniards conquer’d Peru, all these Heathenish Customs have been laid aside.
[Sidenote: The Destruction of the old Empire of Peru foretold.]
As to the Prognostications and Fore-runners of the destruction of the old Empire of Peru, it is reported, that Guaynacava, Father of the last King Attabaliba, lying on his Death-bed in Quito, said to his Princes, This Realm, at present rais’d to the highest top of Eminency, is hastning towards its Ruine; and though our Kingdom remain as yet free from foreign Invasion, the Countreys round about are already conquer’d and in Slavery: The Gods have call’d strange People from unknown Regions, who by degrees will reach us also. With me, who am the twelfth Inga, dies the Dominion of the mighty Peru. A People of other Fashions and Religion will subvert our Religion, Laws and Government, and bring us under subjection to them. There were also Signs and Prodigies that portended the Dissolution of this Empire; amongst the rest a great Eruption in the Province of Tacinga, which rending the Earth asunder vomited up Flames of Fire; nor was it long e’re they were fulfill’d, for whilest the Peruvians were making of Offerings to Viracocha for the delivery of their imprison’d King Huascar, News was brought to Cusco of Attabaliba’s being taken; the Particulars whereof, with other Matters touching the Conquest of this Kingdom by the Spaniards, and how they pillag’d the Countrey, murder’d the Inhabitants, and enrich’d themselves with their inestimable Treasures, shall in order be related.
[Sidenote: By whom Peru was first discover’d to the Spaniards.]
[Sidenote: Great Difficulties in the Discovery of Peru.]
[Sidenote: Pizarro made Governor of Peru.]
[Sidenote: Pizarro taking Attabaliba Prisoner, puts a vast Ransom upon him.]
[Sidenote: Huascar burnt by Order of his Brother Attabaliba.]
[Sidenote: Attabaliba put to death by the Spaniards.]
[Sidenote: Attabaliba strangled by Almagro’s Order.]
[Sidenote: The antient Splendor of the Peruvian Ingas.]
[Sidenote: Quisquis, Attabaliba’s General, stabb’d and cut in pieces.]
[Sidenote: Mango Inga releas’d out of Prison, sets upon the Spaniards, and is at last put to flight.]
[Sidenote: Several Parties of the Peruvians set upon the Spaniards and overthrow them.]
[Sidenote: They are beaten by Alvarado.]
The first that gave the Spaniards notice of Peru, was an Indian Prince call’d Panguinaco, who having been taken Prisoner, inform’d Vasquez Nunnez of the abundance or Gold and Silver which was to be had there, who resolv’d to venture through a thousand Dangers into the South Sea. After which Francisco Pizarro, Ferdinand de Lugue, and Diego de Almagro, consulted upon this great Design, Anno 1525. Pizarrus being order’d to Sail before with a Ship carrying a hundred and fourteen Men, and Almagro to follow with a Vessel carrying seventy Men, whilest De Lugue staid to manage the Affairs at home. Fifty Leagues Southward from Panama, Pizarrus found a small Neck of Land nam’d Peru, from which it is most probable that great Kingdom afterwards receiv’d its Denomination, though many deduce it from the River Beru, as before mention’d: Thence Sailing to the main Continent of Peru, and Landing, he lost several of his Men, and being himself desperately wounded, return’d with ill success, whilest Almagro missing of him, Landed afterwards in the same place, and also lost several of his Men, and one of his own Eyes: yet not long after they renew’d their Design, carrying with them in two Ships and three Boats, three hundred stout Men, which all suffer’d extream Hunger, and had they not happily gotten some Sea-Crabs, they had without doubt all of them perish’d: at last Landing on the Coast of Catamez, they were Encountred by a People whose Faces were hung full of Golden Nails, and daily lost more and more of their Men; upon which ill Successes the new American Vice-Roy forbad the farther discovery of Peru, and call’d home the remaining part from the Island Gallo, so that Pizarro kept with him but twelve Men, with whom he went to the desolate Isle Gorgona, where he liv’d on Sea-Snails, till he receiv’d Provisions from Panama; after which they spent two years in making farther Discoveries upon the Coasts of Peru: During which time he visited the Queen Capullana, and discover’d a mighty Palace, where three of the twelve Men were kill’d, whose Memory deserves to live for ever, because the World owes to their unheard-of Valor the Discovery of the mighty Kingdom of Peru; but there are onely left Recorded the Names of those nine Worthies who surviv’d that Exploit, which were these following, Nicholas de Rivera, Peter de Candia, Juan Torre, Alonzo Briseni, Christophero Peralca, Alonzo de Truxillo, Francisco Cuellar, Alonzo Molina, and the Pilot Bartholomeo Ruyz: With these nine Pizarro Landed on the Isle Puna, inhabited by a valiant People, who us’d Bowes, Darts, Silver Knives, and Pikes tipt with Gold: From thence he steer’d his Course unto the Haven Tumbez, where Peter de Candia Landing, was met by forty thousand of the Inhabitants, who conducted him to the Temple of the Sun, built by the Inga Guaynacava, and adorn’d in the in-side with Golden Plates. Not long after which Pizarro was by an Order from the Spanish Court made Governor of Peru, to the great discontent of Almagro; which Difference being decided, Pizarro set out again with two hundred and fifty Foot, besides Horse, with which he Landed a hundred Leagues lower than before, where he got a great Mass of Gold and some Emeraulds of the Casique, all which he sent to Panama, thereby to stir up the People to come to Peru to his assistance; where those that were at present on the Place, besides other great Hardships which they suffer’d, were miserably plagued with Ulcers in their Faces; yet they prosecuted their Conquest as well as they could with what small Power was left them, and had newly taken Puerto Viejo when Captain Bevalcazar and Juan Florez brought fresh Supplies of Men and Horse; with which Recruit Pizarro conquer’d the Valley of Tumbez; from whence they Sail’d over to the Island Punas, where the friendly Entertainment they met with at first, turn’d soon after into a bloody Battel: for the Spaniards not forbearing to prie into every House, and committing many Outrages, were set upon by the Natives, whom having at last subdu’d, and being again supply’d with new Forces by Ferdinando Sotto from Nicaragua, they return’d to Tumbez, where the Countrey was all in Arms upon the Report of the Spaniards Cruelties committed on the Island Puna, insomuch that they Offer’d all those whom they took alive to their Gods, and slew as many as they could conveniently meet with. Pizarro having stay’d about twenty days, went with his Brothers Juan and Gonsalves, the Captains Sotto and Bevalcazar, and fifty Horse over the River Ambato about Mid-night, through a thorny Way betwixt Mountains, and about Break-of-day fell upon the Tumbezan Army, and having setled things pretty well in those Parts, he built the City St. Michael in the Countrey Tangazara, along the River De la Chira, where he was Complemented by two Agents from Cusco, who desiring Aid in Huascar’s Name against his Brother Attabaliba, receiv’d for Answer, That he was going to Caxamalca, as indeed he was, to find Attabaliba there; whose Commands that he should not approach prov’d all in vain: for Pizarro, under pretence of Complementing him in his Catholick Majesty’s Name, was no sooner admitted to his Presence, but he took him Prisoner, and set for a Ransom upon him as much Gold as a Room of fifty four Foot long and nine Foot broad was able to contain, as high as he could just reach with his Hand held up: But the Gold coming slower than was expected, Pizarro was much incens’d thereat, whom Attabaliba endeavoring to pacifie, alledg’d, That it could not possibly come sooner, because the Way between Caxamalca and Cusco, from whence the Gold was to be fetch’d, was at a great distance: The truth whereof Pizarro resolving to try, sent Sotto and Peter del Baro to Cusco in Chairs, carried by Peruvians exceeding swift of Foot, and who if they tir’d were successively reliev’d by others that attended, without so much as setting down the Chair; being got about half way, they met with Attabaliba’s Captain Cilucuchuma, he having taken Huascar Prisoner, who requested Sotto and Baro that they would be pleas’d to deliver him out of the Hands of his blood-thirsty Brother, for which kindness he would pay three times as much Gold as Attabaliba had promis’d, who was not able to give any thing else but the Golden Plates which were in the Temple of the Sun in Cusco; whereas Huascar had all the Treasure that was left by Guaynacava; which indeed was true, for Huascar had caus’d it privately to be buried, and put to death those that did it, that so he might keep the place conceal’d where it lay; insomuch that none could ever find it out to this day, though the Spaniards have tortur’d the Indians with all imaginable cruelty, to make them discover the place. But Attabaliba inform’d by Pizarro of Huascar’s Imprisonment, seem’d to be exceeding sorry, and said, I am much troubled at the News of my Captain’s laying violent Hands on my Brother Huascar, whom I acknowledge my eldest Brother, and both of the same Father and Mother; but I suppose he has no design to kill him, but onely keeps him Prisoner, to bring him to grant me peaceably to enjoy the Kingdom of Quito, of late brought under subjection of the Peruvian Crown. Pizarro not observing Attabaliba’s subtilty (who design’d nothing but Huascar’s Death, out of fear that the Spaniards upon his liberal promises to them, might promote him to the Throne) comforted him as well as he could: whereupon Attabaliba supposing that Pizarro would be little concern’d at the killing of his Brother Huascar, gave speedy Order that he should be burnt alive, which accordingly was put into execution; but before he was brought to the Fire, he foretold his Brother Attabaliba’s cruel death. During which time Almagro came with fresh Supplies from Panama, eager to have a share of the fore-mention’d Ransom, which at last was paid with overplus; for by daily bringing in of Baskets of Gold, the Chamber was fill’d up to the very top; but though Attabaliba had more than perform’d his Promise, yet Sentence of Death was pronounc’d against him presently after he had been Baptiz’d: the Reasons of which wicked and rash Condemnation were two; first the false Accusation of a Peruvian Interpreter call’d Philippillo, who desir’d his Death, that then he might with the more freedom enjoy one of his Wives; for Attabaliba mistrusting the same, had complain’d thereof to Pizarro, saying, That his Imprisonment was not so grievous to him, as the thoughts of the Adultery, acted against the strict Laws of his Countrey; the Defiler of an Inga’s Bed being not onely to be burnt with the Adulterers, but also the whole Families of them, to the least Infant, their Houses to be rac’d to the Ground, and their Land sow’n with Salt, as for ever curs’d. The second cause of Attabaliba’s Death is laid on Almagro, who came to Peru with new Forces, and who fearing that none of the Gold which Attabaliba had the delivery of, would fall to his share, as not having been in the Battel where Attabaliba was taken, therefore order’d him to be suddenly Strangled, that so the Booty might be equally divided. Not long after Pizarro conquering Cusco, got no less Treasure than at Caxamalca. Here the Reign of the Peruvian Inga’s ceased, with which before no Kings that ever Govern’d in the World were able to compare in Riches and Glory. Their Palaces were round about adorn’d with Golden Images; and they never ate but out of Golden Vessels, spitting in the Hands of beautiful young Women of Noble Extract, were worshipp’d like Gods both whilest living and when dead, all their Subjects being their Slaves, and they the sole Lords of the whole Realm. In the interim Bevalcazar march’d from the new City St. Michael, with a hundred and twenty Foot and eighty Horse, to assist the Cannares against one of Attabaliba’s Generals, who having spoil’d the Ways by digging Pits, and covering them over with Bushes, resisted them in several places: then marching to Quito he burnt the City, after having kill’d a hundred of the Natives, because they laughed at the Spaniards Arrival. Afterwards joyning with Almagro, he went back to Cusco, whither on the Way he had News of Quisquis, Attabaliba’s General, and of his Brother Guaypalcon, who making use of a Rock, threw down great Stones, by the Peruvians call’d Galgas, which in their Fall hitting others, brought down a great number with them, by which means he not onely defended the Place for the present, but kill’d fourteen Spaniards; nevertheless distrusting his ability to keep it, he retreated to a steep Mountain about Midnight, at the Foot whereof a Passage led over a deep River, where he burnt all his Luggage that he could not carry with him; also above fifteen thousand Sheep and four thousand Prisoners, became wholly at the Discretion of Almagro, who leaving there Captain Martin Astete, order’d him to build the Town Truxillo: In the mean time Quisquis was put to flight by Pizarro, and went to Quito, where he lost many People, that were kill’d by Bevalcazar’s Guard; yet those that were remaining chose rather to Fight to the last, than flye through Wildernesses, and there be starv’d to death; which Quisquis contradicting, was Stabb’d by his Captain Guappalau, and immediately after cut to pieces. As soon as these Stirs were quieted, Pizarro began to build the City Los Reyos, near a convenient Haven of the Southern Ocean, whilest Almagro marching to Chili with two Troops of Horse, and five hundred Foot, return’d without doing any thing remarkable, except his taking the Interpreter Philippillo, (whom he caus’d to be cut into four pieces) and his maintaining several Battels against the Chileses, clad in Sea-Wolves Skins. In this Journey he lost several of his Men on the Snowy Mountains. About this time a Ship fitted out by Gabriel Carvajal, Bishop of Placentia, Sailing through the Straights of Magellan, ran into the Haven Los Reyos, out of which the first Rats swam ashore that ever were in Peru, by which the Countrey since suffering much damage, the Inhabitants call’d them Ococha, that is, Sinful Creatures. Now all things on the Spaniards side were tending to a quiet possession, when a new Accident arose, which had like to have spoil’d all, for Mango Inga, Attabaliba’s Brother, being releas’d out of Prison by Juan Pizarro, obtain’d leave to go to Yucaya, to fetch the famous Golden Image Machys, representing his Father Guaynacava: but he having now gotten his Liberty slew all the Spaniards which work’d in the Gold-Mines, took the Castle of Cusco by Storm, as also the City, after a Siege of eight Moneths; which nevertheless was by Francisco Pizarro soon re-taken, and Mango forc’d to flye into the Mountains Andes, after he had kill’d several of Almagro’s Men; soon after Almagro about Midnight getting over the Walls, and taking Ferdinando and Gonsalvo Pizarro, and Alphonso Alvarado Prisoners, condemn’d them all three to die, caus’d himself to be proclaim’d Governor, and gave the Royal Tassel to Paulo Inga, whilest Gonsalvo and Alvarado breaking Prison, inform’d Francisco Pizarro thereof (who then had obtain’d the Title of Marquess, and for an Inheritance, the Province Attabillos;) he was exceedingly troubled for his Brother Ferdinand, whose Enlargement he thought would be best procur’d by making Peace with Almagro and the sooner, because the Peruvians began to rebel against the Spaniards in most places, slew divers Companies of them; amongst whom Diego Pizarro was set upon in a narrow Path call’d Laucesta Parcos, and amongst the Mountains lost seventy Horsemen; and Gonsalvo de Tapico sav’d not one of eighty Horse. Also the Peruvians set upon three hundred Troopers, Commanded by the Generals of the Horse, Morgoveio and Gaeti, in a narrow Path, and rowl’d down great Stones from the tops of the Mountains both before and behind them, so killing both Horse and Man before they could put themselves into a posture of Defence, insomuch that none escap’d with Life but two Troopers. Francisco de Godoy, sent out of Los Reyos with forty five Horse, upon Discoveries, return’d also with great loss, being pursu’d twenty Leagues by the Peruvians; against whom Peter de Lerma being sent out with sixty Horse, fought a whole day with them, and though few of his Men were kill’d, yet many were wounded, and several taken: The victorious Peruvians retreating to the top of a sandy Mountain in the Night, Offer’d the Spaniards they had taken Prisoners, as a testimony of thanks, to Viracocha, and afterwards stood drawn up near the City Los Reyos by the General Tyzopangui. The Marquess thus beset round, sent for Aid from New Spain and Truxillo, and also for Alphonso Alvarado to come back, who had been sent to discover the Countrey Chachepoyos, and being gotten into a Desart, would without doubt have perish’d for want of Water, had not some Horsemen riding somewhat out of the Way, found Pits with fresh Water: notwithstanding which, five hundred Inacona’s (for so the Spaniards call’d the Peruvian Slaves) died for Thirst. He was afterwards supply’d by Gomez Tordoya with two hundred Men, by the help of whom, though encompass’d by the Inhabitants near the Bridge Lamucacha, where began a fierce Battel, Alvarado was in the end Conqueror.
[Sidenote: Civil War between Pizarro and Almagro.]
[Sidenote: The Marquess Francisco Pizarro murdered.]
[Sidenote: His Original and the manner of his Rising.]
Whilest the Spaniards found so much to do with the Peruvians, yet they could not forbear more and more Clashing amongst themselves, the Marquess commanding that Almagro should surrender and leave the City Cusco; but he refusing to obey, fortifi’d himself on the top of the Mountain Gaytara, stopt the Ways by cutting down the Trees: but Ferdinando Pizarro getting up to the top along a private Way, made such a confusion amongst them with Bolt-shot, that Almagro, who was sick at that time, was forc’d to flye; which being told Pizarro, he pursu’d him, and had doubtless utterly defeated him at that bout, had not his Men, benumm’d with marching in the deep Snow, been taken with a Distemper which made them as if they had been all Sea-sick, (for such is the property of the Mountain Guaytara) insomuch that they could scarce carry their Arms: Whereupon Almagro was advis’d to oppose his Pursuers, and that he need not doubt of the Victory; but he either following his own Dictates, or being counter-advis’d, fortifi’d himself in Cusco, whither Ferdinand and Gonsalvo Pizarro march’d against him. Rodrigo de Orgonnes Commanded Almagro’s Army, who being sick, lay on the Walls of the City to see the Battel fought. The Peruvians, who on each side were in the Spanish Service, march’d in the Front: on the twenty sixth of April, Anno 1538. the Fight began, in which the Almagrians did much mischief with Cross-bar shot amongst the Pizarrians; yet Almagro’s Horse retreated first, being under the Command of Peter Valdivia; soon after which the rest of his Army, their Courage also failing, fled to the City; into which, as soon as Orgones being shot in the Head and slain, the Conqueror rush’d after them, and took Almagro Prisoner: yet notwithstanding this prosperous beginning, he soon found himself in a great strait, since those which remain’d alive of Almagro’s Party refus’d to serve Pizarro, and murmur’d against him in all places, resolving to take Almagro from him by force, besides that Pizarro’s Soldiers grumbled that they were not paid sufficiently for the many hazards which they had run: wherefore to compose these Troubles as well as possibly he could, he banish’d all whom he thought to be of the opposite Party, sent away the chief of his own mutinous Soldiers with Captain Peter de Candia, to discover new Countreys, put Almagro to death, and march’d to Callao; where being straitned for want of Provision, he made no stay, but got his Army with much ado to Cusco. Gonsalves Pizarro was likewise so set upon by the Natives, that he lost a considerable number of Men: In short, the Pizarrans were defeated in all places, and at length the Marquess, though forewarn’d by his Secretary Antonio Picado, was murder’d in his own House in the City of Lima, otherwise call’d De los Reyos, by a Bastard-Son of Almagro, nam’d Diego, in the Year 1541; his Body dragg’d to the Church-yard, lay there to every ones view and derision, till John de Barbara buried the same. His Father Gonsalvo Pizarro, sir-nam’d The tall Citizen of Truxillo, Commanding a Company of Foot in Navarre, had two lawful Sons, viz. Ferdinand, who was murder’d in the Spanish Castle Motta, and John that was slain in Cusco, when Mango Inga conquer’d the City, the other two, Gonsalvo and Francisco, being both Bastards; the last of which is said to have been expos’d by his Mother in the Church Porch, and kept alive for several days by sucking of a Sow, till his Father afore-mention’d finding him, and acknowledging him for his Son, put him out to Nurse, and when he was grown up set him to keep Swine; which course of Life he soon left, and following Alphonsus de Ojeda, Balboa, and Pedro de Avita in their Expeditions, he quickly grew rich, and at last came to that heighth of Honor and Command we have heard. Francisco Martino de Alcantara was also his Brother by the Mothers side onely. He was a Man who despis’d all Dangers and Hardships, was so well experienc’d in Martial Affairs, that he might well stand in competition with many of the antient Heroes. In Los Reyos he built two very artificial Water-Mills, a Dominican Cloyster, and another for the Monks De la Merced, and likewise a stately Palace for himself: He was both meek and affable; and though he bore the greatest Command in the Emperor’s Name over the mighty Kingdom of Peru, and got more Riches than ever any of the Roman, Persian, Grecian, or Assyrian Monarchs possess’d, yet he went in the same plain kind of Apparel in the heighth of his Grandeur, as when he was but in a low Condition; about his Neck he commonly ty’d a Linnen Hankerchiff, with which he us’d to wipe the Sweat from his Face: in peaceable Intervals he spent whole days in playing at Bowls, without any distinction of Persons, chusing often to play rather with a Sea-man or common Soldier, than a phantastick Gallant: He visited the meanest Citizens, and many times us’d to eat with poor People, to whom he was upon all occasions very noble and liberal; All his Designs he carried on by the strength of meer natural Parts: for he was so very illiterate, that he could neither Write nor Read; his Edicts were Sign’d with his two Marks, betwixt which his Secretary writ Francisco Pizarro; he is said to have had a Son which died young by Attabaliba’s Sister, who came afterwards to be call’d Donna Angelina; he died in a very unfortunate time, for upon his good success the Spanish Power had grounded their whole Designs, thinking with the Peruvian Treasures, as the Sinews of War, to have erected a fifth Monarchy to succeed the fourth of the Romans.
[Sidenote: Almagro utterly defeated by Vacca de Castro.]
[Sidenote: Deliver’d up Prisoner by Salazar, and Beheaded.]
Pizarro’s Murderer, though aiming at the Supream Power, he had a considerable Party to countenance and aid him, yet he found resistance in many places, not without the loss of many Men on both sides. In which Juncture the Learned Vacca de Castro Landed in Peru, with a Commission from the Emperor to settle the divided Kingdom of Peru in Peace and Quiet; but the young Almagro mad to see his Ambition thus cross’d, gave Battel to Castro in the Plain of Chupas; the Dispute was long and resolute on both sides, and the Night coming on made the Fight the more terrible, in which the Victory inclin’d to Castro; however the Almagrians stood to it stoutly for a great while, and that chiefly through the valor of the Captains Balboa and Christopher Losa, who breaking in amongst the Castreans, hack’d and hew’d down all they came near, till at last they were forc’d to betake themselves to flight, and had not many of them exchang’d their white Scarfs with the red of the slain Castreans, scarce any of them had escap’d from being kill’d in the pursuit, and most of them that did escape were slain the next Morning by the Peruvians. Rodrigo Salazar, Almagro’s Deputy, deliver’d up his Lord to Castro, who condemn’d him to death, whereupon he was immediately Beheaded with a Sword. This Battel hapned on the twenty sixth of September Anno 1542. when it Froze so hard the following Night, that most of those that were left wounded upon the place, were frozen to death. Thus Castro began his Government with Blood, and made it his first Business to make a Discovery by several of his Captains, whom he sent for that purpose, of the Countreys lying Eastward from Peru, lying upon the great River De la Plata, and the River Marannon, where in most places they met onely with salvage People, and for the most part Man-eaters; and in one place where they Landed, a great Fish resembling a Dog came ashore and kill’d several Arm’d Soldiers. A year and a half Castro had liv’d in Cusco, when at the arrival of the Vice-Roy Blascus Nunnez Vela, all things were turn’d topsie-turvy, he being sent thither by the Emperor Charles the Fifth, accompanied by four Councellors, Diego Sepada, Lison Tejada, Juan Alvarez, and Peter Ortiz, to curb the Spaniards Villanies and Outrages committed against the Peruvians, entred Tumbez, Anno 1544. where he immediately publish’d the Emperor’s Edicts, which were to this effect:
[Sidenote: The Emperor’s Proclamation in behalf of the Indians.]
All Peruvians are to be releas’d from Slavery; no Spaniard shall the least oppress them, nor make use of their Service without rewarding them for the same, nor take any Provisions of them without paying for it.
[Sidenote: Ill resented by the Spaniards.]
[Sidenote: Pizarro marches against the Vice-Roy Vela.]
[Sidenote: Vela clashing with the Commissioners, is seiz’d upon.]
[Sidenote: Being Shipt for Spain, is brought back by Alvaradez.]
[Sidenote: Is put to flight and pursu’d by Pizarro.]
[Sidenote: The Vice-Roy slain by Carvayales.]
[Sidenote: Pizarro’s Luxury, and Tyranny.]
[Sidenote: Vela Nunnez and La Torre Plotting against Pizarro, are taken and Executed.]
This Proclamation was like to put the Spaniards into an uproar: for at that time a Peruvian Lord was forc’d to allow every Foot-Soldier three Slaves, and a Horseman five, besides Hens, Rabbets, Eggs, the Wine Azun, and other Provisions, for nothing. The general Complaints were, Is this the Reward for our Service which we have shewn to the Emperor? Is not this mighty Kingdom of Peru by our Blood and Labor joyn’d to the Imperial Crown? Our Shoulders are grown sore under our Arms, our Bodies made useless with Wounds, and our Limbs lame’d with Bruises. Who shall maintain our Wives and Children, if the Peruvians, who according to the Law of Arms are become our Slaves, should not be forc’d to fish for Pearls in the Sea, and dig us Silver out of the Mines, and do us other Service for to maintain us? But Vela being deaf to these Complaints, resolv’d that the Emperor’s Commands should be fulfill’d, and that those that spake against them should lose their Lives: and that he might terrifie the generality with the punishment of a few, he caus’d Fryer Peter of the Order of the Virgin Mary to be Executed in Truxillo, Castro to be committed to Prison at Lima, because he had put Almagro to death without Examination, and shut the Gates of Cusco when his Agent came before the same. But do what he could, the Spaniards generally making Head, utterly refus’d to obey the Emperor’s Edicts, and chose Gonsalvo Pizarro for their General, who rais’d five hundred Men in compleat Arms in Cusco, from whence he march’d directly with them to Los Reyos, under pretence to deliver a Petition there to the Vice-Roy’s Council, about deferring to put the new Edicts in force till the Emperor was better inform’d of the present Condition of the Peruvian State; twenty great Field-pieces being also order’d to follow Pizarro’s Army, were carried by the Peruvians over craggy Mountains; to each Gun without the Carriage were order’d three hundred Men, of whom twelve at a time carried it in their turns a hundred Paces a piece; though several eminent Persons considering the weightiness of the Affair, forsook Pizarro’s Party, and went privately to the Vice-Roy, as on the other side, many deserting the Vice-Roy joyn’d with Pizarro, who being not a little supply’d by Peter Puelles Governor of Guanaca, took several of those that had deserted him Prisoners, and put them all to death, whilest the Vice-Roy made what Preparations possibly he could, Hanging many innocent Persons onely on suspicion of holding Correspondency with Pizarro, insomuch that there was no end of Murdering on both sides. But Vela clashing with his Councellors, because they would not consent that he should ruine Los Reyos, resolv’d to do it without them; and to that end to remove the Emperor’s Seal, Staple of Trade, and Courts Judicature to Truxillo, and to spoil the Countrey all about; which as he was about to put in Execution, they privately got Captain Martin Robles, and Vela’s Lifeguard, consisting of a hundred Men, on their side, whilest the common People mutinying broke into the Palace, took Vela and carried him to the chief Church in Los Reyos, where the four Councellors were assembled, who order’d that the Prisoner should be Shipt and sent away to Spain, when Alvares Cueto lying in the Harbor with ten Sail, threatned to fall upon the Inhabitants if they would not release the Vice-Roy: whereupon the Councellors well provided with Guns, rais’d several Batteries against his Ships, so that Cueto finding himself too weak, set four of his Vessels on fire, and Sail’d with the rest to the Haven Guavara; where being set upon by Diego Garzias, he was forc’d to deliver the remaining part of his Fleet up to the Councellors, who sent Vela away with the same, under the Command of Didaco Alvaradez. But Pizarro, who till this time had pretended that he sought nothing else but Vela’s Departure, march’d close to the Walls of Los Reyos with twelve hundred Men, Hang’d three Citizens upon a Tree, requir’d the Councellors to grant him Letters Patents, by which he might be acknowledg’d for the Supream Governor of Peru, which if they refus’d, he threatned to put all that were in the City to the Sword; and upon Consultation it was judg’d convenient to grant his Demands, the rather, because they had not above fifty fighting Men in the City. Mean while Didaco Alvaradez making an Agreement with the Vice-Roy, they return’d back with their Ships, and Landed in the Haven Mouth of the River Tumbez, rais’d what Forces they could possibly thereabouts, but were forc’d to retire from thence to Quito, (at the same time that the Councellor Tejada, being sent by Pizarro to the Emperor, came to an Anchor there) where they were courteously Entertain’d; as also in St. Michael, where they got daily more and more Assistants; of which Pizarro being inform’d, went thither with five hundred Men, and forcing the Vice-Roy to flye from thence, pursu’d him above thirty Leagues, Hanging up all those whom he could take of his Party. After many Rencounters and Hardships suffer’d by both Parties, Pizarro exceedingly wearied, return’d to Quito, where he minded nothing but all manner of Debaucheries, not in the least regarding the Vice-Roy’s Designs, which it concern’d him to have narrowly look’d into, for he having got five hundred Men on his side, resolv’d to venture a Battel. It was towards Evening when the two Parties had sight of one another: Pizarro having not onely more Men, but also better Exercis’d in Arms than the Vice-Roy, who being sensible thereof, went silently about Midnight from his Station along a narrow by Path, so to fall behind upon the Rere of the Enemy, who mistrusted nothing, by reason the Vice-Roy’s Dogs kept a continual Barking in his old Station, and the Peruvian Sentinels were heard calling to one another, and making great Fires all the Night long; but because the Way was over-grown, and farther about than it was suppos’d, the Vice-Roy finding the Night too far spent, went back to Quito, out of which he Sallied as soon as he had sight of Pizarro’s Forces; against whom, being clad in a white Riding Coat, through the Slits of which appear’d a Cloth of Tissue Doublet, he came Riding on a Bay Gelding in the Head of his Party; with which breaking in amongst the Enemies Ranks, he made a considerable slaughter amongst them, till Hernand Tores coming near him, gave him a Blow on the Head with a Battel-Ax, that fell’d him to the Ground, which the Lawyer Carvayales seeing, ran immediately, out of desire to revenge his Brother’s Death, whom the Vice-Roy had murder’d, and chopp’d off his Head. Thus Pizarro being absolute Master of the Field, began to shew his tyranny upon the Prisoners, some he took away by Poyson, others he Executed with the Sword and Halter, others he banish’d to the remote Countrey Chili, and spent his time in all manner of Vice in Quito; where, amongst other leud Actions, making Love to another Man’s Wife, he hir’d one Vincent Paul to murder her Husband, which said Vincent was afterwards Hang’d at Valladolid in Spain. The Adulteress also was afterwards Got with Child by her own Father, and both of them put to death for Incest and murdering of their Child. Pizarro being receiv’d as King in Los Reyos, grew every day more proud than other, insomuch that his Friends themselves began to hate and envy him, and wanted onely a convenient opportunity to rid themselves of this high-minded Tyrant. A strange Accident, among others, had done him great hurt, had it not been timely discover’d, viz. Joan de la Torre, a Soldier formerly belonging to the Vice-Roy, found accidentally a Grave in the Valley Hica (which by the Peruvians had been worshipp’d above two Ages before) and in it so much Offer’d Gold and Silver as amounted to above eighty thousand Crowns in Gold, besides many Emeraulds and Turcoises, all which Treasure he was puzled how to carry away and possess securely, partly fearing the Emperor’s Displeasure, if he should arrive thus rich in Spain, the rather because he had sided with Pizarro, and also knowing it was impossible to convey it on Ship-board without one or others knowledge; at last, after many Contrivances, he judg’d it convenient to put the Money in a small Vessel, and Sail with the same to Nicaragua, there to raise Men to oppose Pizarro in those Parts, that so he might re-gain the Emperor’s Favor. This Undertaking seem’d to be threatned by many Dangers, he not having a sufficient Spirit to Command, or at least Experience to officiate the Place of a Captain. In the mean time Vela Nunnez, Brother to the slain Vice-Roy, taken in the Battel at Quito, had so much priviledge allow’d him from Pizarro, that he went a Hunting, and other such Exercises, distant from the Camp, who meeting with La Torre, took him in his arms, and embrac’d him with great joy, which so wrought upon La Torre, that he discover’d the Secret of his discover’d Treasure, took an Oath of him that he would be faithful to him, and take Revenge of Pizarro for all the Injuries receiv’d from him; but before, according to their Agreement, they could set Sail from thence, their Plot being discover’d, both Nunnez and Torre were Executed, and their Riches fell into the Hands of Pizarro.
[Sidenote: Peter Gasca sent to settle Affairs in Peru.]
Whilest the Peruvian Affairs were in this confusion and disorder, Peter Gasca, impower’d by the Emperor Charles the Fifth, arriving there, endeavor’d to settle all things in Peace and Quiet, and sent by Peter Hernandes, besides the Emperor’s Letter, another which he writ himself to Pizarro, the Contents of which were to this purpose:
[Sidenote: Gasca’s Letter to Pizarro.]
The Peruvian Soyl hath drunk up the Spanish Blood long enough, and the ruin’d Realm gapes for Rest: The Emperor proffers Pardon for all past Crimes, Repeals the new Laws which the Vice-Roy Vela, during his Government, enjoyn’d the Spaniards to observe. If Pizarro aims at the general Welfare, he may easily see that Arms must first be laid aside, which he now depends on in vain, all his Associates being ready to forsake him, because no Soldier can take up Arms against the Emperor, without being guilty of high Treason.
[Sidenote: Pizarro’s Designs against him.]
[Sidenote: His Party generally fall off to Gasca.]
[Sidenote: Cusco taken by Centeno.]
Pizarro confounded with this Letter, call’d a Council of War, who differ’d very much from one another in their Votes, some judging that it would be best privately to destroy Gasca, others were for an open Engagement, but most thought of another way, viz. to get his Person into their custody, and keep him under a strong Guard on the Island Puna, under pretence that the Peruvian Princes were sent for to come and acknowledge him as supream Governor, which because the Cities lay so remote one from another, could not be done in less than two years. Mean while an Embassy was to be sent to the Court at Madrid, which should enjoyn Gasca to remain in Panama, and not offer to come to Peru till such time as the Emperor commanded the same a second time at the return of the Agents. But Hieronimus Loaisa, chief Bishop of Los Reyos, Thomas Martin, Provincial of the Dominicans, Gomes Solis, Pizarro’s Steward, Laurence Aldana, who were design’d for this Embassy to the Emperor Charles, never went their Journey, but staid in Panama with Gasca, who had also gain’d to his Party Peter Alfonso Ainoiosa, who Commanded Pizarro’s Fleet: Aldana likewise inform’d him of all Pizarro’s private Councels; whereupon Gasca sent privately for Aid to Mexico, Guatimala, Nicaragua, and St. Domingo, and dispatch’d four Ships with three hundred Men, Commanded by Aldana, from the Haven Panama, with Order to Land about Midnight against the City Los Reyos, and so fall unawares on Pizarro. Aldana accordingly falling into the Bay of Malabrige, was reliev’d and supply’d with Provisions by Diego Mora, Governor of Truxillo: On the other side, the Field-Marshal Carvayales being sent for by Pizarro, made a pompous Entrance, with the firing of Guns and Bonfires, into Los Reyos, where all Persons that seem’d to have the least inclination for Gasca, were either stabb’d or poyson’d. In the room of Mora, Pizarro sent the Lawyer Garcias Leon to be Governor of Truxillo, but he being taken by Aldana’s Fleet, joyn’d with Gasca; and thus all things began to conspire the ruine of Pizarro, yet he despair’d not, but being inform’d of the approach of the Ships, caus’d the Drums to be beaten in Los Reyos, forc’d every one that was able to bear Arms, on pain of death to serve him, made several experienc’d Soldiers, Commanders over his Horse and Foot, to whom he gave as much Money as they requir’d, to maintain those whom they had rais’d, and who were to be rais’d, by which means he got a thousand Men in Arms; to which number, according to an Order sent to Cusco, Plata, Arequipa, Lima, Guanuco, and other neighboring Places, new Forces were expected to joyn; but Savedra, Governor of Guanuco, deserting the City, left Pizarro and joyn’d with Mora, who secur’d the Province of Caxamalca for Gasca. Thus Pizarro began to be daily more and more forsaken. Since the destruction of the Vice-Roy Vela, Captain Diego Centeni had hid himself out of fear of Pizarro a whole year, in a Cave under Ground, but now inform’d of Gasca’s Arrival, came forth, and getting forty Men and some Horses together, which also belong’d formerly to the Vice-Roy, resolv’d, though meanly Arm’d, to go upon a bold Design, viz. to take the City Cusco; of which Antonio de Robles, a Man hated and despis’d for his mean Extract and little Wit, had the chief Command, there being therein a Garrison of five hundred Soldiers, besides the Citizens, who were likewise in Arms: Being inform’d of Centeno’s approach, he sent out Francisco Aguierre as a Spye to discover the Enemy; but he joyning with Centeno, advis’d him to march along a By-way, and towards Night to draw up about Cusco, which accordingly he did, and forcing open the Gates, rush’d in with his Horse against the Enemy, who were drawn up in the Market-place, and breaking through their Ranks trampled whole Companies under foot; after which he fell in upon Robles, who having forgotten to give his Men the Word, caus’d a great distraction; for the Men blinded by the darkness of the Night, knew not Friend from Foe, insomuch that Robles’s Party did one another more mischief than Centeno did; who being thus become Master of the City, caus’d Robles to be Beheaded the next day, and distributed a hundred thousand Ducats amongst his Soldiers, and then march’d with a hundred Men to the City Plata, to bring Mendoza, Governor of the same, under the Emperor’s subjection; in which his Design he likewise prov’d successful, being supply’d with a hundred and thirty Foot, which Lucas Martin, had fetch’d from Arequipa for the Service of Pizarro, whom since he had deserted and joyn’d with Gasca’s Party. Mean while the Fleet under the Command of Aldana arriv’d in the Haven before Los Reyos, to the great terror and amazement of the whole City; from whence Pizarro marching, Encamp’d himself with five hundred and fifty Men, so to prevent their Landing, swearing that he would spare none whoe’re fell into his Hands, and sent Order to Peter Martin, whom he had left in the City, immediately to Hang up those which would not follow the Army, or who return’d from thence home; to which purpose Martin went from place to place with an Executioner, and thinking him not quick enough in his Work, stabb’d many Citizens himself: And strict Order was given by Pizarro that all Runaways should be punish’d with Death; notwithstanding all which many of his nearest Friends daily forsook him, taking advantage of the darkness of the Night; nay, the Soldiers themselves would at Noon-day ride away from him, crying aloud, Long live the Emperor, and let the Tyrant Pizarro die: Wherefore he judg’d it most convenient to remove to the Countrey Nasca: During his Journey thither, whole Troops left him, insomuch that he scarce kept a hundred and fifty Men, and those he fear’d every Minute would fall upon him and Murder him.
[Sidenote: Los Reyos declares for the Emperor.]
[Sidenote: Pizarro utterly defeated, surrenders himself into Gasca’s Power.]
[Sidenote: Carvayales and Pizarro both put to death by Gasca.]
With Pizarro’s departure, the whole Scene of Affairs was chang’d in Los Reyos; for there the Imperial Standard was erected, the City Cryer read the Letters of Pardon which Gasca had brought with him from Spain in the corner of every Street. Juan Palimino Landing with fifty Men, receiv’d all those that had deserted Pizarro, whilest Gasca set Sail from Panama with five hundred Men, with whom Landing at Truxillo, he Encamp’d himself in the Valley Xauxa, whither great multitudes flock’d from all places out of malice to Pizarro, who in a short time had destroy’d above five hundred Gentlemen. But Pizarro having quitted Los Reyos, he possess’d the City Arequipa, which he found quite desolate, but meeting afterwards with the Forces Commanded by Juan Acosta, of which one half were also run away, joyn’d with them, and march’d against Centeno, who lay along the Lake Titicaca, with whom he Engag’d in the Plain Guarina: Ludovico Ribera Landing, Centeno’s Party fir’d their Guns before the Pizarrians were within shot of him, of which Carvayales making speedy use, drew up his Pieces close before the Enemy, and made an exceeding slaughter amongst them, killing above a hundred and fifty Men in the first Onset; the Horse amaz’d at the sudden destruction of the Foot, fled, leaving the remaining Foot-Soldiers open to the Enemy, who was gotten behind them with his Musquetteers, and with his Horse before, whilest six Peruvians carried away Centeno out of the Fight, he lying sick on a Chair. Pizarro thus become Victor, kill’d all he met with; of which Gasca being inform’d, resolving upon a private and sudden Revenge, caus’d all Necessaries for War to be made ready, and march’d with a thousand and nine hundred Men out of the Valley of Xauxa to Cusco, where by the Way he was supply’d with the Forces, which the experienc’d Colonel Peter Valdivia had brought from Chili; with which coming to Andagua, he took up his Quarters there for some time, because the mild Winter had with continual Rains made the Ways so dirty, that there was no travelling, and had rotted their Tents and Maiz, and also occasion’d the Bloody-flux amongst the Soldiers. In March, Gasca broke up with his Camp to cross the River Apurima, which he found very troublesom, because Pizarro had broke down all the Bridges: But Gasca caus’d Wood and other Materials to be carried to several places, that the Enemy should not certainly know his Intentions, and at last march’d over deep snowy Mountains to Cotabamba, where suddenly he made a Bridge, over which march’d four hundred Foot, but the Horse suffer’d most damage; for sixty Horses loaden with Arms going to wade over, were carried down by the Stream against sharp Rocks, by which they were desperately gor’d in their sides, and many of them kill’d outright. Pizarro inform’d of the Enemies whole Proceedings by his Spyes, sent Acosta thither with two hundred Musquetteers, to fall upon those that were come over, whom he finding too many, durst not venture to Engage with them. Mean while Gasca’s whole Army getting over on the other side of the River Apurima, march’d up a high Hill, whilest Pizarro Encamp’d himself five Leagues from Cusco, in a Plain call’d Saguisagrana, the Entrance into his Camp being fortifi’d with six Field-Pieces, each side by a River and several Mountains, and the Rere by a deep dry Moat: Gasca stood upon a Hill and view’d the Enemy’s whole Forces lying in the Valley, and being oppress’d with excessive Heat, whilest his Men were so exceedingly pinch’d with Cold in the Night, that they were scarce able to hold their Arms, according to the strange property of the Peruvian Climate; for the tops of Hills generally Freeze, whilest the Valleys about a League from thence are parch’d with Heat: At Break-of-day Gasca descended the Hill; his Horse being divided into two Wings, were Commanded, the left by Juan Savedra, and the right by Balthazar Castro; Mendoza led some Dragoons, Valdivia guarded the Guns, and Gasca himself march’d in the Front of the Musquetteers. On the other side, Pizarro plac’d the Peruvians on his right Wing, Cepeda and Acosta Commanded the Horse, Carvayales and La Torre the Foot, Sebastian Vergara and Peter Soria guarded the Field-Pieces: But the Battel was scarce begun, when Cepedo and a great part of the Horse deserting Pizarro went to joyn with Gasca, and immediately after the right Wing of the Musquetteers; at the same time Centeno and Mendoza fir’d amongst Pizarro’s main Body, of which some ran away to Cusco, others with their Colours to Gasca’s Army. Pizarro seeing himself thus forsaken, cry’d out, Since all are fled to the Imperial Standard, I will also betake my self thither, where perhaps I may find Mercy: Whereupon Acosta answer’d, Let us rather fall in amongst the thickest of the Enemy, and die valiantly: To which Pizarro reply’d, No, now I have lost Honor and Goods, I must take care for my Soul, that that may not be lost also; which said, he lighted from his Horse, Caparison’d in Silver, and deliver’d himself and his Sword into the Hands of the Serjeant Villavicenzo, who found him Habited in curious Armor, a Golden Helmet with a stately Plume of Feathers, and a Corslet incircl’d with Emeraulds about his Neck: Gasca seeing him brought before him in this manner, said thus unto him, Have you not order’d your Business well, to waste so much of the Emperor’s Treasure, and shed so much Blood, and all to confirm your self in your unlawful Usurpation of Peru? To which Pizarro answer’d, saying, I have spent my own Estate in the Service of the Spanish Crown, and might lawfully take upon me the Government of Peru, having with the loss of my Brother’s Life, and the hazard of my own, discover’d the same. Carvayales escaping out of the Fight, had hid himself in a Thicket of Canes, but being discover’d by his own People, was by them brought before Gasca, who the next day after the Battel caus’d him to be Quarter’d alive, and Pizarro’s Head to be cut off in Prison; the other Prisoners were most of them kill’d in cold Blood. Gasca thus become absolute Master of Peru, found an incredible Treasure left by Pizarro, of which he gave to every common Soldier above six thousand Ducats; and with this his victorious Army march’d to Cusco, where he employ’d his Executioners afresh, in Hanging, Drawing, and the like; some that were stigmatiz’d and condemn’d to the Galleys, accounted themselves happy that they had escap’d so. Gasca, though Victor, perceiv’d no small Troubles to threaten him, having twenty five hundred Men in Arms, of which every one for their faithful Service judg’d that they deserv’d some Office or other, there being then above a hundred and fifty to dispose of, Pizarro having Executed the chiefest Officers, and those that bore any Command under him being either fled or kill’d in the last Fight: but the small number of Officers that were wanting, was not to be compar’d to all those that gap’d for Commissions. The Revenues, which yearly amounted to eleven hundred thousand Ducats, went most of it away amongst the Officers, the common Soldiers getting onely a small Snip out of it; wherefore many began to murmur, and were upon the point of Mutinying, if Cianca, the Judge of criminal Causes, taking the chief of them, had not punish’d them in such a manner, that all the rest being terrifi’d, gave over their Complaints. After Gasca had spent above nine hundred thousand Ducats in the War against Pizarro; all which Money he took up upon Interest, which, after having setled the Kingdom in Quietness, he paid for the most part with the Goods taken from the Rebels. Next he made a Law concerning the Peruvians paying of Tribute, which before the Spaniards forc’d from them whensoe’re and howsoe’re they pleas’d, with the greatest Tortures imaginable.
[Sidenote: Peru Governed by Vice-Roys.]
Gasca having again erected in Los Reyos the high Court of Judicature, in which sat the Imperial Judges, return’d home with an unvaluable Mass of Treasure for Charles the Fifth, and left the Peruvian Government to the Judge Cianca; since which time Peru hath been Govern’d by Vice-Roys, the first whereof, who succeeded Cianca, was Antonio Mendoza, and after him successively Andreas Hurtado Mendoza, Diego Valasco, Lopez Garcias de Castro, Francisco de Toledo, Martin Enriques, Garcias Mendoza, Ludovico Velasco, and Juan Pacheco, under whom the Peruvian Kingdom hath enjoy’d Peace and Quiet, to the considerable enriching of the Spanish Inhabitants.
Thus much of the antient Transactions in Peru, it will now be requisite to give you a brief Account of the several Provinces in this mighty Kingdom.
[Sidenote: Division of Peru.]
The Countrey is generally divided into three Juridicial Resorts, as they call them, or Courts of Appeal, which are Quito, Lima, and Charcas; but the particular Provinces, as they are commonly observ’d by Geographers, are said to be six, viz. 1. Quito. 2. Los Quixos. 3. Lima. 4. Cusco. 5. Charcas. and 6. Collao.
SECT. II. Quito.
[Sidenote: Situation and Description of Quito.]
The first Province of Peru towards the North is Quito, or the new Kingdom of Granada, with which on that side it is bounded, having on the West, Mare del Zur; on the South, Lima; and on the East, Los Quixos. It lieth in a manner right under the Line, and is said to be seventy two Leagues in length, and in some places about twenty five in breadth.
The Winter begins here in October, and continues till March, in which fall mighty Showers, and on the Mountains abundance of Snow, but all the Summer long the Sun is seldom darkned with a Cloud. Many of the Inhabitants die of a Giddiness in the Head about the beginning and end of Summer. The POX also destroys many of the Natives; with which Disease they are often born, and give it to the Spaniards, who are not able to abstain from the Indian Women; they use Sassaparilla and the Wood Guaiacum to cure themselves with.
Here grow also many poysonous Herbs, which the Peruvians make use of to poyson one another.
[Sidenote: The Fruit Quaba.]
In the farthest parts of Quito grows the salt and cooling Fruit Quaba, two Handfuls long, cover’d with a grey Rind, and within full of white Pulp and hard Kernels.
[Sidenote: The Tree Guaiaba.]
The Tree Guaiaba hath a pale smooth Bark, thick Boughs, hard and glittering Leaves, Flowers consisting of five Leaves, not unlike a Peacock’s Plume, long Apples, woolly without, and within full of a pale red Pulp and eatable Stones; the Root, which spreads it self very much, is sweet, and when boyl’d cures the Bloody-flux. This Tree grows in most places, especially in low Grounds, the more because the Kernels which the Birds picking out let fall on the Ground, spring up in new Trees.
The Spanish Fruits, as Peaches, Cittrons, Figs, Pomegranates, Pears, Quinces, and Oranges, grow also here in great abundance, but when ripe are subject to rot.
Moreover, the Fields abound with Wheat, Barley, and Maiz; the Pastures afford plenty of Grass for Oxen, Horses and Sheep, which bring forth Lambs twice in fourteen Moneths.
The Ocean and Rivers store of Fish; the Stream Barbara us’d formerly to produce Gold also.
In moist Grounds the Inhabitants find abundance of Salt-petre, the best that is for the making of Gun-powder.
[Sidenote: The Inns Tambos.]
For the Accommodation of Travellers, Inns call’d Tambos, are built near the High-ways, exactly five Leagues distant one from another, where all sorts of Provisions are sold at a set Price.
[Sidenote: The Nature of the People.]
The Natives antiently went Cloth’d in a Frock without Sleeves, as wide on the top as at the bottom, and pleited their long Hair. They are strong, well proportion’d in Body, and subtile enough to learn any Art, but treacherous, inconstant, and inclin’d to Drunkenness: They were very hard also to be brought to receive the Roman Religion, so that most of them would not suffer themselves to be Baptiz’d till they lay a dying: They also drove a great Trade in Cotton, Wooll, and Cloth.
Between Pasto and Quito are several Villages, and the famous High-way, by the Ingas cut through the Wildernesses and Mountains, the Wall of an old Castle, and the wonderful Stone-Bridge Lumichaca, which Nature hath made over the swift River Guaca; it consists of a hard Cliff, at the Foot whereof is a great Arch, through which the Water runs with exceeding force.
This Tract of Land produces Maiz, and abundance of Mortuanos, a Fruit resembling Damask Prunes, which eaten in excess cause Drunkenness and Faintness.
The Lake Yaguarcocha, signifying Bloody-Water, because the Inga Guayanacava kill’d and drown’d twenty thousand there.
[Sidenote: Towns and Places of chief note.]
The chief Towns and Places of Note are, 1. Caranguez, antiently a Royal City, where stood a sumptuous and stately Palace of the Kings of Peru, now almost deserted. The Palace, built of Stone in a little Plain, without either Mortar or Iron-work, manifests its former glory by its Ruines.
2. The Royal Castle of Atabalo, or Ottavallis, in the building of which the Ingas spar’d no Cost nor Charges; and indeed it is a Structure no way inferior to any of the antient Roman Edifices. Between this Castle and Cochequi, a stately House, lies a cold snowy Mountain. Moreover, the Spaniards have several Habitations along the Way to Quito, and especially in the Valley Annaquito, where the Vice-Roy Vela lost the Battel fought against Gonsalvo Pizarro.
3. Quito, commonly call’d St. Francisco de Quito. There stood formerly here certain Palaces, built by the Ingas, but the City was re-built by the Spaniards at the Foot of a certain Ridge of Mountains, which it hath on the North and North-West side of it, and are said by Laet, to cross the whole Countrey of Peru quite over from the South to the North Sea: It was soon after the Building inhabited by five hundred Families of Spaniards at least, besides Natives, and well fortifi’d, and might be thought a Town very well seated in all respects, but for the neighborhood of a Vulcan, which at times annoyeth it very much, as namely in the Year 1560. when it vomited out such abundance of flaming Cinders and other sulphureous Matter, that had it not been for a Shower of Rain unexpectedly falling, would have much damnifi’d, if not destroy’d the Place. The Natives about Quito are more Moraliz’d than other Peruvians. The Valleys which are warm’d by the Sun produce all manner of Fruit-Trees and large Vineyards; and the Root Papas, not unlike Apples. The Quimla, which is of a Mans heighth, hath little Seeds, of which a pleasant Liquor is boyl’d. From Quito the High-way leads to Cusco, along which at every four Leagues distance stands a brave Palace; and from Cusco to Chili, being in all above a thousand Leagues long. The City, built on a sandy Soyl, is divided in the middle by a Moat, over which lead several Bridges: the Streets are large and streight, and full of handsom Houses, and at the ends of the four chief Streets four Market-places. Besides the Cathedral, are two other Churches, Dedicated to the Saints Sebastian and Blasius. The Cloysters of the Franciscans and Dominicans are also no small Ornament to the City. Besides other stately Structures, are the Residences of the Receivers of the Kings Revenues, to which the Peruvians that live about the City, being computed no less than fifty thousand in number, pay Tribute; and to keep them in subjection, the City Quito is always well stor’d with all manner of Ammunition and Instruments of War. The chiefest Trade here consists in Sheep, Goats, and other Cattel, Cotton-Clothes, Cloth, Flax, Hats, Cordage, Sugar and Salt; which Salt, being grey and bitter, springs out of a Fountain in the Countrey Mira. The Oyl, Wine, and Drugs which are us’d here, are fetch’d from the South Sea up the River Ambato, and from thence with Carts into the City.
4. Thomebamba, famous for a Royal Palace, built there by some of the Ingas; It lies Southward from Quito in the Province of Canares, where two Rivers commix their Waters, near a Plain abounding with Venison. There yet remain considerable Ruines of this Palace, in which one may discern the vast Dimensions of divers Rooms, in some of which Arms were kept, and in others Provisions and Clothes; of which kind of Buildings or Magazines the Ingas had erected above a thousand in Peru, especially along the High-way, that they might have their Ammunition ready in all places if need should require. On the left side of Thomebamba appear’d the famous Temple of the Sun, whose Gates were not onely curiously Painted, but also Inlay’d with Emeraulds. Both the Palace and Temple, adorn’d with Gold and costly Images of great Touch-stone and Jasper, contain’d within their Walls an unvaluable Treasure. These magnificent Structures are at this day fall’n quite to decay. The People of this Countrey, who wear long Hair, pleited on the top of their Heads like a Coronet, go Cloth’d in Cotton Coats and Buskins of Hair-cloth. The Women, indifferent fair, and great admirers of the Spaniards, Plough, Sowe, and gather in the Harvest, whilest the Men stay at home, Spinning, Weaving, and doing of other Female-Offices. Anno 1544. they discover’d Mines here, which produc’d as much Gold as Earth.
5. Tacunga, where was formerly another stately Palace, about fifteen Leagues from Cusco, not far from the Mountain which some years since vomited Ashes and Stones into the adjacent Fields. Hereabouts was formerly a Cloyster, inhabited by the Nuns call’d Namaconas, the Ruines whereof are yet to be seen, with several Houses of Stone, but cover’d with Thatch. The Natives in this Place are of a brown Complexion, and of a very affable Nature.
6. Mulambato; 7. Mocha; 8. Rhiobamba, three small Villages, but each of them credited with a stately Palace. Opposite to Rhiobamba lies the Province Chumbo, from which a troublesom Way leads to Guaynacapa over the River Chongo.
9. St. Jago de Puerto Viejo, giving Denomination to the Territory about it, which produces abundance of Potatoe Roots, Maiz, Juca, three sorts of Guayavas, Cerezillas, and the Tree Tunas, which bears wild Figs. The Spanish Fruits grow here likewise in great plenty. The fore-mention’d Beasts like Hogs, whose Navels grow on their Backs, are also very common here. The Woods abound with Deer and all sorts of Fowls, amongst which one resembling a Goose, and call’d Xuta; and another nam’d Maca, somewhat lesser than a Cock, and which feeding about the House, may be reckon’d amongst the Poultrey of this Countrey. The Sea along the Coast affords them abundance of Bonito’s, which eaten in some Seasons cause Agues. The People along the Sea-Coast are generally troubled with Pimples and Sores in their Faces, especially on their Foreheads and Noses, few of them living long, by reason of the unhealthfulness of the Place through excessive Moisture, for the Rain continues eight Moneths together.
10. Manta, lying upon the Southern Ocean, the chief of the Villages, formerly possess’d by the Caranes, betwixt the Promontory Passao and the River Dable. These People are said to this day to carve and cut their Faces from their Ears to their Chins; about their Necks and Arms they wear Chains of Gold and little red Corals, call’d Chaquina, highly esteem’d by the Peruvians. This Town was formerly famous for a great Emerauld, which was religiously worshipp’d there.
11. Guayaquil, otherwise call’d Culata, built at a deep Inlet of the Sea, near the River Anebato, which with great swiftness falls down from the Mountains Quito, is surrounded with a fertile Soyl; and in the hollow Trees is found plenty of Honey. The Water of the fore-mention’d River, being of great vertue in curing the Morbus Gallicus, hath great resort of People from all places; who likewise gather the Sarsaparilla that grows along the Banks. The Bridge which the Inga Guaynacava began to lay cross this River, is also very remarkable, but he dying, it was left unfinish’d. The Guancabilcas were heretofore under the Jurisdiction of this City Guayaquil.
12. Castro, so call’d from a strong Fort built there by a Spanish Captain, and situate in the Valley Vili, not far from Guayaquil.
13. The City Loxa, built in the Countrey of the Paltas, a People that went naked, between two Arms of the River Catamayo under a wholsom Climate, near the High-way that leads to Cusco in the Valley Curibamba, where no poysonous Beast was ever found. The Soil bears abundance of Oaks, Hazles, Ash, Willow, and Cedar-Trees; Maiz, Barley, and Wheat. Not far from the City springs a hot and sulphurous Fountain, which cures all sorts of Sores and Wounds. The Countrey hereabouts is likewise stor’d with Fowls, Venison, Cattel, and Fish. Moreover, the City receives no small lustre from two Dominican, and one Franciscan Cloyster. Eastward from which lie desolate Mountains, whose tops are continually cover’d with Snow. Not far from hence were formerly two noble Palaces, Piedras and Tamboblanco, besides several Villages.
14. Cuenca, wherein are also large Structures for the Monks and Priests: The Countrey about the same hath rich Mines of Gold, Silver, Quicksilver, Copper, Iron, and Sulphur.
15. Zamora, Eastward from the cold Mountains Andes, built in a Marshy Soyl, where the Inhabitants are never visited with Pestilential Distempers, and use no other Physick for such Sicknesses as they are troubled with, than Tobacco, and the Herb Aquacolla. But there is a certain Nut that grows hereabouts, which occasions sudden death, if eaten raw, but being boyl’d, is a wholsom Food. The Mines afford great pieces of Gold, of which one weighing eighteen Pound, was presented to Philip the Second, King of Spain. The briny Springs produce good Salt. Three Rivers falling from the Mountains, are noted for their Golden Sands, and also afford delicious Fish. The Bees being here void of Stings, furnish the Inhabitants with plenty of Honey. The Tygers and little Lyons devour many of the Sheep Pacos, Goats, Hogs, and other Cattel, and sometimes the Natives themselves. The City it self is neatly built with Woodden and Stone Houses, and adorn’d with a Church and Dominican Cloyster, besides a stately Palace, the Residence for the King’s Receiver. The Natives about this Place are a stupid and barbarous People, which before the Spaniards coming thither, would for a small trifle kill one another.
16. The City Yaen, situate in the Countrey Chuiquimayo; it is so call’d from a swift River, cross which the Peruvian Women and Children swim, to the great amazement of the Spaniards. They paint their Bodies black with the Juice of the Root Yaguas, and feed for the most part on the stamp’d Plant Yaca. On the other side of the Mountain, which rises on the Banks of Chuquimayo, lies the Countrey Perico, fruitful and well inhabited, against which juts the Golden Countrey Cherinos. Peru hath also several delightful Valleys, amongst which on the North the chiefest are the Tumbez, Solana, Poechos, and Piura, all of them very fertile, full of stately Buildings, and water’d by several Rivers.
17. San Miguel, the first City that was built by the Spaniards in Peru, situate in a sandy and dry Soyl, being extraordinary dusty in Summer, and very slabby in the Winter, because the hard Ground cannot soak up the Rain. The Ingas made a Way through this Valley fifteen Foot broad, between two Walls, and Planted Trees on each side.
[Sidenote: Spilbergen’s Attempt upon Payta.]
18. Westward from Miguel appears Payta, near a convenient Haven in the South-Sea, which Anno 1547. was burnt by Thomas Candish; since which it had been re-built twenty eight years, when Joris Spilbergen, after a hard Engagement with the Spanish Admiral Rodrigo Mendoza, arriving in the large Haven before Payta, sent eight Sail with three hundred Armed Men up to the City, where finding the Enemy Encamp’d along the Shore, he return’d without any effect; but two of his Frigats, the Eolus and the Morning-Star, running close to Payta, fir’d whole Broad-sides at the same, whilest Captain De Wit took a Peruvian Fisher-man, who had been two Moneths out at Sea, and taken abundance of Fish. The Guns which the Ships fir’d upon the Town struck such a terror into the Citizens, that they fled with Bag and Baggage into the Mountains, and left the City for a Prize to Spilbergen, who setting fire on the same, in few hours burnt down two Churches, a Dominican Cloyster, and several Alms-houses: But had not the Citizens been cowardly, they might easily have kept off the Hollanders; for the Vice-Roy Ludovico Velasco inform’d of Spilbergen’s Arrival, had stor’d the Place with Ammunition and Men, whose Courage failing, prov’d successful for the Hollanders, who whilest they Rid here at an Anchor, took a very strange Bird on the Island Lobos, lying before Payta, being two Yards high and three thick, in its Bill, Wings, and Claws resembling an Eagle, and having a large Crest on its Head. Not long after Donna Paula being Governess of Payta, a Lady famous in Peru for her Beauty and obliging Nature, sent Cabbages, Oranges, Cittrons, and other Provisions to the Hollanders, and requested the Releasement of some of the Spaniards taken in the Engagement against Mendoza, but could not obtain her Request from the uncourtly Dutchmen.
SECT. III. Los Quixos.
[Sidenote: Description of Los Quixos.]
The Province of Los Quixos lieth South, and to the South-East of Quito, being border’d more directly Eastward with a part of the Province of Guiana, call’d by some El Dorada, or The Golden Countrey; on the South it hath Lima and Cusco.
[Sidenote: The Canela-Fruit.]
This Province is subdivided into several lesser Territories, viz. Canela, Pacomores, and St. Juan de Salinas. Canela is so call’d, because it hath many great Woods, which produce the Fruit Canela in great abundance, the Owners whereof were most inhumanely dealt with by the Spaniards; for Gonsalvo Pizarro supposing to get store of Gold there, found nothing but Trees, bearing a Fruit like Olives, by the Natives call’d Canela, with which they us’d to drive a great Trade, being otherwise poor and simple People, living in Huts, which Pizarro pulling down, caus’d the Inhabitants to be torn in pieces by his Dogs, because they could not furnish him with Gold, nor direct him where it was to be had.
[Sidenote: The Granadilla-Apple.]
Besides the Canela-Tree, this Countrey also produceth in great plenty the Tree which beareth the Apples Granadilla, exceeding good against burning Feavers; the Leaves are like Ivy, the Blossom resembling the Sun, and the long Leaves speckled with Red and White, open three hours after Sun-rising, and close again before the Evening, just as if Nature took care to preserve the beauty of the Flower.
[Sidenote: Towns and Places of chief note.]
In this part of the Province the chief are, 1. Baeza, otherwise call’d Quixos, built in the Year 1559. by Ramires de Avila, eighteen Leagues from Cusco.
2. Archidona, twenty Leagues to the South-East of Baeza. 3. Avila. 4. Sevilla del Oro, all of them Spanish Colonies.
The Territories Pacomores and Yguansongo, otherwise call’d The Countrey of Juan de Salinas, are said both to extend above a hundred Leagues in length, and little less in breadth. The Fields afford store of Pasture for Cattel, the Plough’d Lands produce Wheat and all sorts of wholsom Herbs; and in some places are also rich Gold-Mines.
The Governor Layola built four Towns here, viz. 1. Valladolid; 2. Loyola; 3. San Jago de los Montanas; and 4. Caruma.
The Jesuit Acosta relates, That not far from Caruma he found great Stones, some of which were full of Golden Veins, but were hard to be cut from the Rock. Most of the Gold is found in the Sand of several Rivers, the chiefest whereof flow through Quito, New Granada, Valdivia in Chili, and Caravaya in Peru.
On the Point of Quito, the River San Jago falls into the Southern Ocean; the Ground in the Mouth of the River being very uneven, for oftentimes the Ships are fast aground at the Stern, and on Head they have above eighty Fathom Water; yet nevertheless the Shoals are no ways dangerous.
South-West from St. Jago lies the spacious Inlet Mattheo, and the Promontory Francisco, known by its Banks and high Grounds, which shew red and white at a great distance.
Not far from hence, exactly under the Equinox, appears Cape Passao, flat and low; between which and Mattheo, the great Rivers Los Quiximes fall into the Sea.
Behind Passao rises the high Mountain Quaque; and more Westerly the Bay Caraques affords a secure Harbor for all manner of Vessels.
Next you come to the Town Puerto Viejo before mention’d, lying behind the Island Laurenso.
Five Leagues off at Sea, before Laurenzo, lies the Island Plata, formerly famous for a Peruvian Temple, in which the Natives Sacrifis’d Sheep, and sometimes Children, and painted the Figures of divers Persons with the Blood; to which they also Offer’d Jewels, Gold, Silver, Wooll, Cotton Shirts, and Cloaks. Francisco Pizarro arriving here, got an invaluable Mass of Treasure; but at present it lying desolate, affords nothing but Brambles and wild Trees.
The next which come in view are the Havens Callo and Zalango, where there are safe Harbors, good Wood and Water.
The Cape of St. Helena makes also a secure Road on the North, and on its Shore hath a Spring, on the top of whose Waters swims a certain Gum, by the Natives call’d Copey, exceeding good to make Ships tight.
The River Tumbez falls into a large Bay, which on its North-East Point near the Main Land, hath the Island Puna, ten Leagues in circumference: The Soyl whereof produces abundance of Maiz, Fuca, and other good Roots, besides great Woods full of fruitful Trees, and Sarsaparilla. The Inhabitants of a brown Complexion, and middle Stature, wear Cotton Cloaks, and Chains of Chaquira and Precious Stones: They drive a great Trade, and formerly maintain’d Wars with the People inhabiting upon the River Tumbez; their great want is fresh Water in the Summer. Thomas Candish Landing here Anno 1587. found a Ship hal’d ashore, and three Villages, in one of which stood a Palace belonging to a Casique, surrounded with Stone Galleries; and near it a large Store-house full of Tar-pots and Hemp to make Cables of: The Village consisted of two hundred Houses, and a fair Church with a Steeple, in which hung several Bells. The Casique Married to a Spanish Woman being fled with the Villagers, Candish took many Oxen, fat Sheep, Pigeons and Ducks, the Bells, and what else was not convey’d aboard, with him, and, afterwards burnt the whole Town; but whilest he was busie in making havock, a thousand Spaniards, and a considerable number of Peruvians fell upon the English on such a sudden, that they kill’d some, and took others Prisoners.
Somewhat farther off at Sea appears the Isle Clara, where those of Puna formerly buried their Dead.
The Inlet into which falls the River Tumbez, whose Shores are well inhabited, ends Westward at the Promontory Blanco; Southward from which lies the Isle Lobos, where there are several Springs full of the same Gum, or Bitumen, a little above mention’d.
Beyond the Point Agua lie the two Isles Lobos Marinos, opposite to a low Coast; they are desolate, and barren of Grass, Trees, and all kind of Herbs, and destitute of fresh Water; but many Pelicans, Penguins, and other strange Birds.
The discovering of these Coasts belonging to the Jurisdiction of Quito, deserves a short Relation:
[Sidenote: Bevalcazar overcoming Ruminagua, takes Quito.]
[Sidenote: He comes to an Agreement with Alvarado.]
[Sidenote: Pizarro and his Army driven to great Straights.]
[Sidenote: Orellana cross’d in his Designs, dies for grief.]
[Sidenote: The miserable Condition of Pizarro’s Men.]
[Sidenote: Quito very much defac’d by siding with Vela against Gonsalvo Pizarro.]
Whilest Pizarro kept the Inga Attabaliba Prisoner, he sent Captain Bevalcazar to the new Fort St. Miguel, where eighty Horse and a hundred Foot being arriv’d from Panama and Nicaragua, and he being inform’d that there lay a great Treasure in Quito, and that the Canares, the Spaniards Friends, were exceedingly oppress’d by Ruminagua, Attabaliba’s General, immediately march’d thither with the new arriv’d Forces before mention’d, to fetch the Booty, and to assist the Canares; but several things oppos’d him in his Design: for Ruminagua guarded the Way with twelve hundred Indians, digg’d Pits in the same, and filling them with sharp Poles, cover’d them slightly over with Canes and Earth; all which Bevalcazar shunning, went about, fell in upon the Rere of the Enemy, and after a small Resistance conquer’d the City Quito. Mean while Ferdinand Cortesio sent Petro Alvarado from New Spain, who taking Guatimala, receiv’d a Commission from the Spanish Court, to subdue the Northern parts of Peru. Soon after which Garcias Holgua being sent with two Ships to enquire concerning the State of Peru, brought News back, That Francisco Pizarro had gotten an unvaluable Treasure at Caxamalca; which so stirr’d up Alvarado, that he Landed five hundred Men at Puerto Viejo, march’d in great want of Provisions over the Mountains Acabucos, and had he not accidentally found a Pond of sweet Water in a Thicket of Canes, both Men and Horses had all perish’d; at last upon his approaching Quito, the Governor thereof, being Bevalcazar, not enduring to suffer an Equal, drew up all his Men in Battel array; but some Persons interceding between them, they were soon reconcil’d, and Alvarado being bought out with a great sum of Money, deserted Quito; where after Gonsalvo Pizarro, had remain’d a considerable time he march’d Eastward of the Province, which produces abundance of Cinamon; whither he was accompanied by two hundred Spaniards and four thousand Peruvians; against whom the Natives dwelling on the Borders of Los Quixos fought very valiantly, till Night approaching, when they all ran away; after which resting a while, there arose a mighty Tempest of Thunder and Lightning, accompanied with a dreadful Earthquake, which swallow’d above five hundred Houses, whole Woods and Fields, whilest an unknown River burst out of the Earth, and overflow’d all the Countrey, insomuch that Pizarro expected nothing but a speedy Ruine, in regard no Provisions were to be found in all the Countrey: at last getting on the top of the nearest Mountain he lost many of his Men, who were frozen to death with excessive Cold. From thence marching to the County Zumaque, he got plenty of Provision and Cinamon, which grows on great Trees in the Woods; the Leaves thereof resemble the Laurel; the Fruit grows in little Berries; the Root and Bark have a strong odoriferous smell. Thence travelling to the Town Coca, he found a mighty Cataract of Water, falling from a Rock above fifteen hundred Ells high; insomuch that the noise in calm Weather was heard six Leagues off. Pizarro leaving his sick People in Zumaque, went onely with a few Eastward from Coca to the Plain Countrey Guema, full of Moorish Grounds, the Inhabitants whereof went naked: at last he came to the great River Maranon, which falls from the Mountains near Quito, and extends with several windings above eight hundred Leagues in length, and at the Mouth thereof is fifteen Leagues broad, which at that time overflowing all the Countrey, he judg’d it convenient to build a Brigantine, making the Shoes of the dead Horses serve for Iron-work, his Mens Shirts for Sails, and a Gum, which was to be had there, for Tar, and having Lanch’d their Vessel, and put all their Baggage and sick People into the same, they Sail’d close along the Shore, on which Pizarro made his Way through Brambles and Canes, or went over in the Brigantine whensoe’re he espy’d a better Path on the other side; in which manner they were gone two hundred Leagues down the River, with no other Food but wild Fruit and Roots; when Captain Franciscus Orellana, was order’d to Sail away before with five Men, and seek out for Provisions, and at every Stream which fell cross-ways out of the Countrey into the great River, he was to leave a Mann’d Boat: but Orellana in few days drove down so far with the swift River, that he saw no likelihood of getting up again in a whole year, neither could he find any Provisions, but fought daily with the Indians, who came stoutly to Board him in little Boats: amongst whom he was inform’d also, that thereabouts liv’d the Amazon Women, that Warr’d continually against their Neighbors; and at last he came into the Northern Ocean. But Orellana Sailing to Spain, obtain’d a Commission to be Governor of the Amazons Countrey, whither he steer’d his Course with five hundred Men in three Ships; but Landing at the Canaries they all ran away from him, which so incens’d Orellana, that he soon after dy’d with Grief. Mean while Pizarro inform’d by a Spaniard whom Orellana had put ashore, that the Brigantine was by the strong Current carried into the Ocean, knew not what to do, his People since their departure from Quito having travell’d above four hundred Leagues, had eaten most of their Horses: Many dy’d by feeding on unwholsom Herbs; others fell down dead for Hunger, or tir’d out with toilsom Travel; their Clothes, rotted by the Rain, hung upon them like Rags, their Shoes were worn out, their Feet full of Blisters, their Bodies sadly mangled with Brambles and Thorns, for no place afforded them a Boat. Pizarro leaving the River Maranon, went another Way, no less troublesom for steep Rocks and inaccessible Mountains. The Valleys through which they went, began now to be strew’d with dead and sick Bodies, who were not able to follow the Army, which march’d very fast, every one judging to be so much nearer his preservation the farther he could get: Those that fainted call’d continually on their Friends for help, but the Horses were grown too weak to carry them: Every one saw nothing but Death before his Eyes; wherefore, though call’d by their dearest and most intimate Friends that lay a dying, they never look’d back, their compassion towards others being turn’d into fear and care of themselves. The Forsaken implor’d their Saints, and besought Pizarro for aid, but finding their Complaints to be in vain, and raging through despair, they wish’d all the rest the same success, and the like Friends, whenever they should be in the like Condition. Pizarro extreamly griev’d and troubled, that he had brought the People into this Misery, sent a few Horsemen before to Quito, to carry the sad News of his deplorable Condition, that they might immediately send Provisions to him; which he receiving when he was within fifty Leagues from the said City Quito, distributed amongst those that were left alive, who being also almost starv’d, eat so greedily, that several of them were chok’d; the remainder were kept a considerable time in Garrison under the Command of Pizarro in Quito. Which City, built in a pleasant place, grew very populous in the Year 1544. there being several Gold-Mines found about the same in that time. But this lasted not long, for Quito siding with the Vice-Roy Blasco Nunnez Vela against Gonsalvo Pizarro, most of the Citizens were destroy’d by him, and their Houses burnt to Ashes. The like Destruction, and upon the same occasion, befel the three Villages in the Province Bracomoros, discover’d by Juan Parzel and Captain Vergara, together with the Countrey Chichiapoios, where Alphonso Alvarado built the Town Levanto, surrounded with deep Caverns, through which, to the great strengthning of the City, flow several Rivers.
Round about Puerto Viejo the Natives dwelt in Trees, whom the Spaniards had much ado to bring under their subjection; for their Countrey being barren and mountainous, was not onely wanting in Provisions to feed an Army, but the Peruvians also threw great Stones out of their Huts built in Trees, and likewise Javelins and Pots full of boyling Water, with which they did much mischief to their Enemies that Storm’d them, who at last covering themselves with Boards, cut down the Trees, with which they falling were torn in pieces by the Spanish Dogs.
SECT. IV. Lima.
[Sidenote: Situation and Description of the Province of Lima.]
Lima, call’d also Los Reyos, hath on the East, Collao, and some part of Cusco; on the North, Los Quixos; and on the South, Charcas. The Countrey extendeth it self in length upon the Coasts of the South Sea two hundred and fifty, some say, full three hundred Leagues in length, viz. from Cape del Aguia Northward, on the Borders of Quito as far as Arequipa towards the South, and runs Eastward to Brasile and Rio de la Palma.
[Sidenote: The several Valleys of this Province.]
In this Province are several very pleasant Valleys, the first whereof is Motupe, to which a sandy Way leads from St. Miguel de Valverde, between barren Wilds, from whence several Streams falling are immediately drunk up by the Sand; wherefore all Travellers that go that way carry Water and Wine with them in Calabashes for twenty Leagues together, which they Walk or Ride by Night, because of the excessive heat of the Sun.
In the Valley Motupe grow abundance of Trees, which receive nourishment from a River that springs up near the same. Here is also much Cotton.
Not far from hence are the Valleys Xayanca, formerly very populous and full of Palaces: The River which flows through the middle is led in Trenches amongst the neighboring Fields.
The Valley Tuqueme is also very pleasant, and the decay’d Palaces, sufficiently testifie its former splendor.
The next being Cinto, is no way inferior to Tuqueme; and between both lie sandy Hills and barren Rocks, on which grow neither Trees nor Herbs, nor is any living Creature to be found upon them: the Way through which being a whole days Journey, cannot be travell’d without sure Guides.
The Valley Collique, water’d by a River of the same Denomination, and very thick set with Trees, was formerly very populous, but since the Spanish Wars it is become quite desolate; for not onely a considerable number of them were slain by the Spaniards, but also many destroy’d themselves, Wives and Children; of which Peter Martyr, Councellor to the Emperor Charles the Fifth, sets down several terrible Examples, of which two were remarkable above the rest; the first was after this manner:
[Sidenote: Two tragical Passages.]
The Spanish Captain Olandus Lying with the Daughter of an Indian Casique, question’d when she grew big with Child, Whether she was with Child by him? and that he might know the real truth by Torture, he caus’d her to be ty’d naked to a woodden Spit, and laid to roast against a Fire made of green Wood, so that she died in a most miserable manner; upon which her Father ran in a rage with thirty of his Companions to Olandus’s House, where he kill’d his whole Family, and locking all the Doors about the House, set fire on the same, into which when it was at its greatest heighth, he and his Associates leap’d into the middle thereof.
The second Accident is also very terrible, viz. An Indian Maid being Got with Child by a Spanish Ass-driver, acquainted her Father and Mother with it, withal telling them that she was ready to suffer Death for her Offence; and notwithstanding they freely pardoning, and perswading her to the contrary, she eat raw Juca, which when boyl’d is a wholsom Food, but if eaten raw, certain though languishing Death; which she perceiving, ran to the next River, where after having wash’d her self, she broke off from a large Tree a Bough of five Foot long, and making the end thereof very sharp, fell upon the same, and so kill’d her self. Several other Ravish’d Maids taking example hereby, hang’d themselves upon the Boughs of the same Tree.
But to proceed in our Description, next to Collique lies the Valley Zana, of the like bigness, and famous for the City Miraflores.
The next is Pascayamo, which exceeds all the former in fruitfulness, and populousness of Inhabitants, who before they were destroy’d by the Ingas were much fear’d by their Neighbors. This Valley also was adorn’d with several fair Temples, which are now turn’d into Cloysters. Cattel, Hogs, and Goats breed here in very great numbers. The chief Trade of this Place consists in Cotton and Linnen.
The Valley Chacama, in which the Dominican Monks inhabit a brave Cloyster, produces abundance of Sugar.
Four Leagues farther lies the spacious Valley Chimo, so call’d from an old Peruvian Heroe, which affords a pleasant Prospect, by reason of the many Banquetting-houses built there by the Ingas. No place in Peru is able to stand in competition with this for plenty of Provisions, the Ocean and Rivers producing store of Fish, the Countrey affording Cattel and all manner of Fruit. The Cotton which grows here is Shipp’d to the South Sea.
Chanca is a Valley chiefly considerable for the Town Arnedo, which is situate therein, of which more hereafter.
But the Valley Guanape, not far from Chanca, yields the best Peruvian Liquor Chica, and hath a convenient Harbor for Ships.
The Plain Santa being overflow’d in the Winter, is all overgrown for want of Inhabitants, who were all destroy’d by the Spaniards. The Woods hereabouts swarm with a sort of venomous Bug, which exceedingly torments the Traveller.
[Sidenote: Spilbergen’s Attempt.]
Next follow in order the Valleys Guambaico, very fruitful, and Guarney, abounding with Horses, Hogs, and other Cattel. Joris Spilbergen Landing here Anno 1615. found the Haven secure against all Winds, and between the Shore and the Village Guarmey a Creek, and somewhat farther a fresh-Water Pool; on one side of which stood a decay’d Castle built of square Stone, whereon the Hollanders set the States Flag, and Garrison’d the same to secure those that fetch’d Water out of the foremention’d Pool. In the aforesaid Village stood a Church with a spiry Steeple; behind which rose high Mountains, and at the Foot thereof a great Wood, into which the Inhabitants fled with all their Goods, so that Spilbergen found nothing but a little Meal, a few Hens, Hogs, and Oranges in their Houses, which whilest he was sending Aboard, a small Body of Horse appear’d, but immediately fled into the Woods. The Hollanders staying here seven days, were inform’d, that the Galley Jesu Maria, Commanded by the Admiral Rodrigo Mendoza, and the Santa Anna, by the Vice-Admiral Peter Alvares Piger, were both lost, not one Man being sav’d.
Not far from thence lies the Valley Parmonga, which though it be fruitful and pleasant, yet it is quite desolate; the Walls of a large Castle still appear, as testimonies of its being formerly inhabited; and within the said Walls also are still to be seen the Ruines of spacious Halls and fair Chambers, whose Walls are painted with wild Beasts and Birds: The Spaniards have digg’d all about, and undermin’d the same, in hopes to find, together with the several dead Bodies, a Treasure buried. Two Leagues Southward from this Valley Parmonga flows the River, Guayman, by the Spaniards call’d Rio del Falcon, from a Hawk which was seen there. When any store of Rain falls here, a great part of the Dale Barrana lies under Water.
[Sidenote: Strange manner of Hunting.]
Not far from hence lie the Valleys Gaura and Lima; which last exceeds all others in bigness, and was formerly exceeding populous; but since the Marquess Pizarro built the City Los Reyos here, the Citizens have taken the Lands from the Peruvians. The Mines hereabouts produce Gold and Silver. Amongst other things the Inhabitants highly esteem an Herb bearing yellow Flowers, which in a short time cures a putrifi’d Wound, whereas if laid on sound Flesh it eats the same to the Bone. The Natives heretofore us’d to spend their time in Hunting, and caught their Game after this manner, viz. three or four thousand of them would meet together, and by taking Hands make a Ring of three or four Miles in circumference, and at a certain Note or Tune Sung, or loudly Exclaim’d, they drew nearer and nearer, till at last they were within Shot of the inclosed Game, whatsoever it were.
[Sidenote: A vast Treasure found by Ferdinando Pizarro.]
The Countrey of Collao hath a low Point, from which a long Cliff runs into the Sea, towards the small Island call’d Isla de Collao: On each side of the Point the Coast runs sloaping in, the one side extending North-West from Collao, to the Cliffs Piscadores; the other South-East to the second Promontory; behind which is a large Bay, where the Valley Pachacama appears, famous for its exceeding fruitfulness, and a stately Temple built by the Ingas, where Ferdinando Pizarro found above nine hundred thousand Ducats, besides what the Soldiers and Commanders took, and what the Priests had hid, which none, though miserably tortur’d, would confess.
Opposite to Pachacama lies the Valley Chilca, where it never Rains, nor any Brook or Spring moistens the dry Soil, which nevertheless produces Maiz and Fruit-Trees. The Natives us’d to dig large and deep Pits, in which they Sow’d and Planted, and at every Root laid the Head of a Fish call’d a Sardin, which they caught in Nets on the Sea-shore; wherein nevertheless nothing would have grown, but for the Morning Dews which fell. The Ingas also had curious Banquetting-houses here. In these Parts there grows a sort of Tree call’d Mala, of which Acosta relates a strange Wonder of Nature, very remarkable, viz. That it flourishes and bears Fruit on that side which beholds the South, in that Season when it is Summer on the Mountains; the other which views the Sea, Blossoming and bearing Fruit when it is Summer on the Plains.
The Valley Guarco, spacious and full of Trees, produces especially the pleasant Fruit Guayaves and Guavas, as also the best Wheat in Peru; wherefore it is vended all over the Countrey. Here are also the Ruines of another stately Castle, built by the Ingas, the former lustre whereof is testifi’d by its remaining Walls, which consist of exceeding great Stones, so neatly joyn’d together without Mortar, that it appears like one entire Stone; and by the decay’d Structures of several Halls, much of the curious Painting whereof is yet to be seen; from the Castle a large pair of Stairs led down to the Sea-shore. Two Leagues farther the River Lunagun runs through the fertile Valley of the same Denomination. The fatness of this Soil is chiefly ascrib’d to the Dung of a Fowl call’d Guana, which the Natives fetch in great abundance from the Isles near the Main.
Next follows the Valley Chinca, one of the biggest in all Peru, and before the Spaniards Arrival very populous. In the time of the Ingas it also shew’d a magnificent Temple Dedicated to the Sun, built by Tepaja Jupangue; yet the Inhabitants still remain’d constant in the worshipping of their old Idol Cinciapema. Hither the Ingas sent their conquer’d Princes, who on a certain time were to appear in Cusco. The Dominicans at present possess here a neat Cloyster, from whence leads a plain Road to the Dale Ica, water’d by the River Pisco, which is dry in Summer; wherefore the Natives brought a Ditch from the Mountains, which since the Spaniards destroying the Inhabitants, is choak’d up with Sand.
Next the Valley Nasca comes in view, famous for the Castle Caxamalca, where the Ingas kept all manner of Ammunition for War, besides several Tombs, out of which the Spaniards took great Riches. This Valley is divided into several others, which for the most part produce Sugar-Canes; and through them all runs the Royal High-way, which is Wall’d in on both sides.
Beyond Nasca lie one behind another the Valleys Hacari, Oconna, Camana, and Quilca, all of them affording good Pasture for Cattel, and Fruit, yet are most of them desolate.
The County Los Motilonos, thinly inhabited for want of Provisions, and divided by two Rivers, separates Moyobamba from the Countrey Charasmal.
Southward beyond Caxamalca appear the Countreys Guamachuco, and a little farther Conchucos and Piscobamba, all fruitful and pleasant, and adorn’d with several Structures built by the Ingas.
On the side of Piscobamba the County Guaraz extends it self over barren Mountains, through which the Ingas cut a Royal High-way, and built a strong Castle at the Entrance into the Countrey; the Inhabitants whereof being very laborious, work very diligently in the Gold-Mines.
The Territory Pincos, water’d by a River, and famous for one of the stateliest of the Peruvian Structures, is surrounded by the Countreys Guayalcas, Turama, Bomba, and Conchucos. The Mountains, though dangerous to Travellers by Lyons, great Bears, and other ravenous Beasts, afford abundance of Silver; and the fruitful Soil produces Wheat, Maiz, Grapes, Figs, Oranges, Quinces, Cittrons, Cedars, and; likewise feeds Goats, Horses, and other Cattel.
The Countrey Viticos, being within the Jurisdiction of Guanuco, lies amongst the Mountains Andes, whether Inga Mango fled, when the Spaniards made themselves Masters of Peru.
[Sidenote: Chief Towns and Places of note.]
The Towns and Places most observable and important in it belonging to the Spaniards, are 1. Miraflores, as the Spaniards call it, a well seated and wealthy Town in the Valley of Zanu, as above mention’d, five Leagues distant from the Sea, where it hath likewise a good Haven or Port.
2. Truxillo, two or three Leagues distant from the Sea; the Haven whereof is said to be large, but not safe. The Town it self is seated in the Valley Chinco, upon the Banks of a pleasant River, whose Water doth not onely run through several Channels to moisten the Fields, but also to accommodate every House in the City: It hath broad Streets, a great Market-place, four Cloysters, two for the Dominicans, one for the Augustines, and the other for the Franciscans; one great Church, five hundred Houses, and a Palace, inhabited by the King’s Collectors, and many Banquetting-houses about it. The good situation and fruitfulness of the Soil, mov’d the Marquess Francisco Pizarro to build this City here Anno 1533. but the Haven belonging to the same lies open to all manner of Winds, so that the Ships Ride here in great danger.
3. La Parilla, otherwise call’d Santa, fourteen Leagues beyond Truxillo Southward, wash’d by the Southern Ocean, and one side by a fresh-water Stream, which being inclos’d between stony Cliffs, makes a secure Harbor.
4. Arnedo, seated ten Leagues Northward from Lima, amongst the Vineyards of the Valley Chancas; otherwise having no great matter in it remarkable, but a fair Dominican Cloyster.
[Sidenote: Prizes taken here by Sir Fran. Drake.]
[Sidenote: Spilbergen attempts the Place in vain.]
5. Lima, by the Spaniards commonly call’d La Cividad de los Reyes, or The City of Kings, so nam’d because Pizarro, who built it, laid the first Stone on Twelfth-day, Anno 1553. which they call The Feast of the Kings: It is seated in the Valley of Lima, (from whence the City is also so denominated) one of the fruitfullest Parts of all Peru, and so neatly built, that all the chief Streets of the City open upon a fair Market-place, or Piazza, of such a large Square, that upon the sides thereof are built, in a stately and convenient manner, the Cathedral, the Palace of the Archbishop, the Vice-Roy’s Palace and Courts of Justice, with the Exchequer or Publick Treasury, the Town-house or place where the City Magistrates meet and hold their Courts, the Publick Armory or Magazine, and a Free-School, wherein are taught by the Jesuits all Arts and Sciences, and also the Indian Language, and divers other fair Buildings of the Nobility and better sort of Citizens. No Countrey under the Heavens affords a more fruitful or pleasanter Place than this; the temperate Climate neither troubling the Inhabitants with excessive Heats or great Colds, nor terrifying them with Thunder or Lightning, but having almost perpetual Sun-shine and fair Weather; onely the three Winter Moneths, wherein there falls a sweet-smelling Dew, which cures the Head-ache; and there die but very few of pestilential Distempers. The Countrey about the City is pleasant without exception. The Pigeons which are kept here in curious Houses built on purpose, flie a thousand in a Flight. The Fields abound also with Cattel. The Orchards and Gardens flourish with all sorts of Trees and Plants, whereof those that are brought hither from Spain grow better than in their natural Countrey. The West side of the City is wash’d by a pure & clear Stream, which stores the Market with great plenty of good Fish, it being distant but a Musquet shot, especially when the Water rises. This River is of great consequence, for it not onely waters the whole Valley of Lima with its several Branches, but also runs under every House in the City, being built on Stone Arches; they are onely one Story high, because there is no Wood to be had in the Valley of Lima but what in three years becomes all Woorm-eaten; nevertheless the Houses are very beautiful both within and without; the Walls being very thick and strong, have curious Arbors of green Boughs on the top, in which the Owners shade themselves from the Sun. Most of the Houses built in the high Streets have pleasant Turrets, which face the Market-place, where all sorts of Provisions are brought to Sale, as Oxen, Sheep, Venison, Sugar, Oranges, Cittrons, Grapes, and Wheat, which is ground in Water-Mills built near the River. This City is inhabited by many able Merchants, which often load Ships to Panama, that are valu’d at above two hundred thousand Ducats. To the Arch-bishop’s See of this Place belongs the Bishopricks of Chili, Charcas, Quito, Cusco, Truxillo, Guanuco, Popaian, San Francisco, Panama, Nicaragua, and Rio de la Plata. The City is also adorn’d with two fair Churches, besides the Cathedral, and also other lesser Churches, four stately Cloysters, two Nunneries, and the Jesuits Palace, which is very magnificent. The Haven two Leagues distant from it, and call’d Callao de Lima, is large and secure for Ships. Anno 1579. Sir Francis Drake took twelve Ships from hence, one whereof was laden with Linnen and Silk, besides a great Chest full of Silver: Which Inconvenience to prevent for the future, the Spaniards have built two strong Forts, and fortifi’d them with Brass Guns. Thirty years after Sir Francis Drake’s Exploit, Joris Spilbergen coming to Anchor here, found the Place all inhabited, a Fort well stor’d with Guns, and a strong Castle before the Mouth of the Harbor, from whence they shot Bullets of thirty six Pound weight at the Hollanders, and so shatter’d their Frigat, call’d The Hunter, that she could scarce keep above Water: Fourteen Spanish Merchant-men lying near the Shore, receiv’d little damage, Spilbergen not being able for Shelves to get to them, neither did he judge it convenient to Land, the Vice-Roy having at that time above four thousand Men in Arms, besides several Troops of Horse; wherefore after having fir’d several Guns on the Fort, and against the Church, he set Sail to Guarmey.
6. Cannete, otherwise call’d Guarco, from the Valley wherein it is situate: It was built by the Spaniards out of the Treasure which they found in the Castle afore spoken of in the same Valley.
7. Valverde, situate in a Valley of the same Name, where excellent Fruit may be had for a small Price; it is a well Traded and rich Town, about sixteen Leagues distant from the Sea.
8. Pachacama, situate in a Territory of the same Name, four Leagues Southward of Lima, memorable chiefly for Pizarro’s good fortune here, who is reported to have found in one onely old Temple of the Natives, the quantity of nine hundred thousand Ducats of Gold and Silver, besides what his Soldiers are suppos’d to have seiz’d on, and convey’d away before he came.
9. Castro Verreina, threescore Leagues distant from Lima to the South-East: It lieth in the Valley of Chocolocha, and is a rich Place, by reason of the good Mines of Silver which are about it, and abundance of the best sort of Tobacco.
10. Miguel de la Ribera, in the Valley of Camana. The Inhabitants whereof drive a great Trade in Wine, Figs, and Raisins.
11. The City Arequipa, which extends up towards the Mountains, is built in the Dale Quilca, which runs eleven Leagues from the Sea, under a healthful Climate; but in the Year 1582. it was wholly ruin’d by an Earthquake; the reason whereof is ascrib’d to the wet sulphurous Mountains, which burns continually, and sometimes vomits out Flames and Ashes. The Marquess Pizarro built this City forty six years before the fore-mention’d Earthquake, since which being re-built again, soon attain’d to three hundred Houses, besides a Church and Cloyster; and though it be but a small Town, yet it is of a great resort, because the Gold and Silver is brought hither from the Mines Chancos, Porco, and Potosi, and from thence sent down the River Quilca, which washing the City Walls runs into the South Sea to Los Reyos, and from thence to Panama, Nombre de Dios, and New Spain. The Jurisdiction of this City Arequipa extends it self a vast way, viz. over the spacious Valleys between Hacari and Tampaca, and up in the Countrey beyond the County Condesuyo, full of Hamlets and Villages; the Inhabitants whereof heretofore worshipp’d the Sun. By the Way from Arequipa to Collao lie two great Lakes, out of one of which the River Aparima takes its original.
12. Caxamalca, rather a Fort than a Town, in a Territory of the same Denomination, built at the Foot of a Mountain wash’d with two Rivulets, over which lead several Bridges; near which also were formerly a stately Temple Consecrated to the Sun, wonderful Palaces and Baths for the Ingas, besides other magnificent Structures of Noble-men, which were the more famous for Attabaliba’s Imprisonment and Death. The Soil round about may compare with any part of the World for fertility. The Inhabitants are a peaceable ingenious People, and make curious woollen Hangings.
13. St. Juan de la Frontera, built by the Spaniards North-East and by East from Caxamalca in the County Chiachinpoyas, full of Gold-Mines and Cattel; to which belongs not onely Chiachinpoyas, but also the Countreys Guiancas and Cascainga, out of which above twenty thousand Peruvians pay Tribute to the Spanish King. These People especially the Women, are very comely and beautiful; for which reason the Ingas fetch’d their Wives and Concubines from thence. Eastward from Frontera rise the high Mountains Andes, behind which flows the great River Mayobamba by several poor Villages inhabited by a sottish kind of People.
14. San Jago de las Valles, built in an ill place amongst the Shrubs and overflowing Rivers. In this Countrey grows a Tree which bears a juicy Fruit, not unlike an Almond in prickly Rinds, but resembling those which cover a Chesnut, concerning which Physicians have deliver’d their Opinions, That there is not a wholsomer Fruit in the whole World.
15. Leon de Guanuco, which receiv’d that Denomination from its Builder Vacca de Castro, who call’d it Leon, because he was born in the Spanish City Leon, and Guanuco from the stately Palace of the Ingas which was built here: The Houses are built of Free-stone, and cover’d with Thatch. The Citizens of Los Reyos were much against the building of this Town, because several Lands belonging to them were taken away and given to Guanuco, where the temperate Air grants long Life and Health to the Inhabitants. The High-way, in which stand several Store-houses, formerly full of Ammunition, runs through the middle of this Countrey, where in the time of the Ingas dwelt Astronomers, who by looking on the Stars pretended to tell future Events. Here the Women also us’d to be burnt alive with their Husbands.
SECT. V. Cusco.
[Sidenote: Situation and Description of Cusco.]
Cusco is the far greater part of the Province of Peru, containing generally all the Sierra, or Hill-Countreys, and those parts of the Andes likewise which lie Southward of the little Province or Cantred of Guanuco, being Coasted Westward and to the North-West with Lima; Eastward, with Los Quixos, and some part of Guiana; and on the South, with Charcas; enjoying for the most part a temperate and good Air, neither over-heated with the scorching Sun in the day, nor damp’d with any cold Mists or Dews in the Evening, as some parts of the Plains of Peru are, but well water’d with many fresh Rivers, which make the Valleys and lower Grounds of it good Pasturage, able to maintain great Herds of Cattel. The Woods are especially stor’d with the Coca, whose Leaf is accounted restorative, and with much excellent Venison.
[Sidenote: The several Valleys, and other Territories belonging to Collao.]
In this Province also there are some lesser Divisions of Countreys necessary to be describ’d, viz. the cold and barren Countrey Bambon, jutting against Guanuco, inhabited antiently by a valiant People, especially near the Lake Chincacocha, which is ten Leagues in circumference; in the middle of it are several Cliffs and little Isles: And out of this Lake also the famous River De la Plata hath its original, and runs through the Valley Xauxa, receiving by the way the Streams Parcos, Bilcas, Abancay, Apurima, Yucay, and others.
The next Countreys in order towards the South are Tarana, abounding with Wheat, and the eminent Valley Xauxa, surrounded with snowy Mountains. The Inhabitants by a general Name call’d Guancas, were antiently divided into three sorts, viz. the Maracabilca, Laxapalanga, and Xauxa. Here were also several stately Houses built by the Ingas.
Upon this Valley borders the Village Acos near a Moorish place full of Canes; but before you approach the Village you come near a high Plain, where the Ruines of an antient Structure appear; and somewhat farther the Palace Pico: from whence the High-way directs to the Bridge Angoyaca, which leads cross the River Xauxa; near which the Ingas had several magnificent Structures, and Baths of warm Springs. Not far from hence is the Village Picoy; between which and Angoyaca the Arm of the River Xauxa is cut with a Bridge, because in the Winter it glides so swift that they cannot Ferry over it.
From Picoy you go to the Wild, in whose Center stands the antient Castle Pucara, (which in the Peruvian Tongue signifies Invincible Fort) where the Ingas receiv’d their Tribute from the neighboring People that live amongst the snowy Mountains.
The Banks of the great River Vinaque are crown’d with the Ruines of antient Structures, which (as the Natives relate) were built by foreign People; which Assertion of theirs seems to be confirm’d by the form and manner of Building, differing from the Ingas Structures, which us’d to be long and narrow. Moreover, several sweet Streams, abounding with Fish, especially Crabs, glide through the Plain-Countrey out of the Mountains Andes.
Not far from hence appears the Plain Chapas, and the Palaces Pilcas, of which now nothing remains but a heap of Rubbish, which lies in the Center of Peru. A fresh-water River, which gives the fore-mention’d Palaces their Denomination, glides out of Soras, and washes the High-way and stately Temple of the Sun.
The Countrey Soras, exceeding fertile, and stock’d with Gold and Silver Mines, is inhabited by a People which go Cloth’d in woollen Cloth, and for their Valor formerly much esteem’d by the Ingas.
Those that inhabit the Countrey Uramar are call’d Chancas, whose Neighbors possess a long Tract of Land abounding with Cattel and Fruit, but of late are most of them destroy’d by the Spaniards.
The River Abanca, which takes its original in the Mountainous County Parinacocha, washes several Royal Buildings, and at last discharges its Waters into the River Xauxa.
On each side of the great River Apurima are erected two wonderful Stone Pillars, over which lies a most artificial Bridge built by the Ingas; from whence the Highway, being cut through hard Rocks, leads up into the Countrey; where the stately Buildings of Limatambo shew themselves; and beyond the Mountain Bilcaconga the Valley Xaquixaguana, inclos’d between high Rocks, comes in view, where the Ingas us’d to recreate themselves in their Banquetting-houses; from whence the Highway, which is Wall’d in on both sides, runs directly through deep Moorish Grounds to Cusco.
[Sidenote: Peter Anzurez his Journey.]