Chapter XXIII
Santarem to Belem (Pará)--The Amazon--From Belem to Manaos--The Madeira-Mamore Railway
SANTAREM was an old settlement of no great interest. It had a few relatively fine ancient buildings and many ugly new ones.
Early on November 6th the steamer proceeded on her way to Belem (Pará). On leaving Santarem we first emerged into the great Amazon River, a regular sea of fresh water, where we tossed about in a strong north-easterly gale. Unless one knew, one never could have imagined oneself on a river, as the stream was so wide at that point that the opposite bank could not be seen at all.
Things were a little better when we entered the channel of Monte Alegre. On that channel was the little town of the same name, half of the buildings being along the water's edge, the other half on the summit of a low hill near by. There is a sulphur spring there with wonderful medicinal properties, and coal is also said to be found.
A colony of Spaniards had been imported to work, but they were dissatisfied and had left. Tobacco, made up into fusiform sticks 6 ft. long and tied into bundles, was exported from that place in considerable quantities; the inhabitants were also engaged in breeding cattle, growing Indian corn, and drying fish--the pirarucú (Vastres gigas), a salmonoid vulgarly called the cod-fish of the Amazon. A big trade was done in that dried fish all over that region.
In the full moon of a glorious night we could discern to the north a mountain region with elevations of over 3,000 ft. Between those mountains--the Serra de Almerin--and ourselves, lay a long flat island, the vegetation on which was, for that particular region, comparatively sparse. That island of mud had formed during the last fifteen or twenty years, and was at the time of my visit several kilometres in length. It was called the Pesqueiro. Islands have a way of forming in a very short time in the Amazon, while others change their shape or disappear altogether.
On November 7th we were facing the principal outlet of the Amazon to the north-east. That main estuary is, however, not as navigable as the one south of it, through which most of the big ships pass. An archipelago had formed at that spot. The fortress of Matapa, very ancient, stood on the largest outlet.
We went through the channel called the Itoquara. Another, the Tajapurozinho, was to the south, forming a boundary on that side of the large island, which we skirted to the north in the Itoquara channel. The beautiful island of Uruttahi was now in sight, to the north of the largest outlet. Like all other islands in that neighbourhood, it was flat and of alluvial formation.
In order to avoid the open waters, where the small ship upon which I was tossed about considerably, we kept to the smaller channels between the islands, going first through the channel of Limão and after that through the Tajapuru. It was practically the same course as the Itoquara, which was called by different names in different parts. It was narrow and tortuous, and required great skill in the navigation of it; but it was extraordinarily deep--so deep that all the big ocean steamers entering the Amazon followed this channel in preference to the main outlet of the river, which is not navigable owing to many sandbanks.
We were there in a regular maze of islands, composed mostly of mud and of recent formation, not more than one or two feet above the water. For Brazil, they were fairly thickly inhabited, miserable huts being visible every few hundred metres or so.
On our right as we went through we had a luxuriant growth of mirichi palms, some of great height and close together--a regular forest of them. At the first glance as you looked at those islands, it seemed as if all along the coast-line a low palisade had been erected. It was indeed a natural palisade of aninga, an aquatic plant growing in profusion on the edge of mud-banks. The aninga is said to contain a powerful poison, the touch of which produces violent itching.
All the houses and huts on those islands necessarily had to be built on high piles, as the country was constantly inundated, the tide rising and falling some three feet in that particular channel.
As we neared the mouth of the river, with Para as our objective, we first saw the lighthouse of Buyussu in the immense bay which takes its name from the little town of Coralhina. Both this town and that of Boa Vista were on the left side of us, on the great island of Marajo. On the right the island of Oya was visible, and the island of Araras. Between the light of Buyussu and the island of Oya opened the great bay of Melgasso.
Considering the amount of navigation that went through, it was amazing to see how badly lighted that river was--the two lights, such as the one at Buyussu, and the one at Mandy, at the entrance of the bay of Marajo, being no bigger than and not so brilliant as the ordinary street oil-lamp in an English or French village. I understand that all ships navigating the Amazon have to pay a large tax on each journey for the maintenance of the lighthouses on that immense waterway. It is quite criminal that no proper lights are constructed in order to protect the safety of the passengers and the valuable cargoes which go by that important water route.
More picturesque than most of the scenery I had so far witnessed on the Amazon was the narrow Foro da Jararaca. From the lamp-post--it cannot in all honesty be called a lighthouse--of Mandy, we made for the other lamp-post of Capin; and from this for the third lamp-post of Arrozal, navigation being most difficult in that part. From there we steered direct for the Farol de Cutijuba, a light somewhat more respectable than the others at the entrance of the Barra of Pará.
After going through the bay of Coralhina we did not follow the great channel that was before us, but skirted the island of Concepção to the left, passing between it and Paketta Island. After that island we found ourselves in the bay of Jappelin, so named after a bird of that region, which builds an elongated nest.
Having passed the Cutijuba Island, and then the Taxipa Island on our left, in the early morning we entered between the islands of Arabiranga and Jararakinha. The larger vessels generally follow a course outside on the east of this island before entering the large bay of Marajo.
We could plainly see that we were approaching a large city, for quantities of little sailing boats were now visible on the water. Signs of civilization were beginning to appear on the island of Arabiranga. A brick and tile kiln, which supplied Belem (Pará) with most of its building materials, had been established there. Alongside the island could be seen a lot of steamers belonging to the Amazon River Company. Beyond was the bay of Guajara, with the city and many ocean steamers looming in the distance.
On November 18th we steamed into the bay, and there stood the city of Belem (Pará) before us, while the noise of the town began to get louder and louder as we approached the dock. That sound was welcome to me in a way, and at the same time worrying, after the dead silence I had been accustomed to for the last many months.
A swarm of robber-porters invaded the steamer the moment we came alongside the pier. The bustle, the loud shouting, the pushing, seemed most irritating. Ill as I was, for a few moments I almost contemplated the idea of turning back toward the virgin forest. The heat was oppressive, the bells of the tramways jangled all the time, the rattle of the mediæval carriages on the cobble-stones of the pavement was distressing.
Things were not pleasanter when I put up in the best hotel, where the best room I could get was not unlike a coal-cellar. We will not speak of the food.
Those aspiring efforts at semi-civilization were to my mind ten times worse than no civilization at all. Had it not been for the extreme kindness of my friend Commandante Macedo, of Mr. Ross, the manager of the London and Brazilian Bank, and of the British Consul, I would have left the place that same day.
At Belem I dismissed Alcides, Antonio, and white Filippe, paying their full passage by sea and railway and full wages up to the day of their arrival at their respective homes. They had certainly many faults, and had not behaved well to me; but I am given to weigh matters justly, and there was no doubt that those men had endured terrific hardships and, willingly or unwillingly, had carried through quite a herculean task. I therefore not only paid them the high wages upon which I had agreed, but I gave each a handsome present of money.
The three men duly signed receipts and unsolicited certificates, in which they declared that during the entire journey they had been treated by me in a generous manner and with every possible thoughtfulness and consideration.
As they had not been able to spend a single penny since we had left Diamantino they had accumulated a considerable sum of cash. I warned them, as I had done with Benedicto, to be careful and not waste their money. They went out for a walk. Some hours later they returned, dressed up in wonderful costumes with fancy silk ties, patent leather shoes, gold chains and watches, and gaudy scarf-pins. In a few hours they had wasted away nearly the entire sum I had paid out to them. Everything was extremely expensive in Pará--certainly three or four times the price which things would fetch in London or New York.
Two days later white Filippe and Antonio embarked for Rio de Janeiro, with hardly a word of farewell to me. Alcides refused to travel on the same steamer with his companions, and left by a later one.
The city of Pará is much too well known for me to enter into a long description of it. Since its discovery in the year 1500, when Vincente Yanes Pinzon cast anchor in the Marañon or Amazon, Belem has become a beautiful city. As everybody knows, it is the capital of the Pará province, which has an area of 1,149,712 sq. kil. Geographically, Belem could not be situated in a better position, and is bound some day to become the most flourishing city of the Brazilian Republic. It is undoubtedly the key to the great Amazon River, although it is not actually at the mouth of the Amazon, but 138 kil. from the ocean. Through it is bound to pass the trade not only of that riverine portion of Brazil, but also of Peru and Bolivia.
Belem (Pará) is mostly known to Europeans as the nest of yellow fever. During the last few years it has been freed absolutely from that scourge, the cases of yellow fever being now few and far between, owing to the wonderful progress made by hygiene and the praiseworthy efforts made by the Province to keep the city in a healthy condition.
The population of Pará is 192,230 inhabitants. Many spacious and handsome edifices, such as the Government buildings and the professional Institutes, do great credit to the city; while the Peace Theatre is one of the finest in Brazil. Many private mansions are of some architectural beauty, and some of the new avenues and the municipal gardens are handsome. The slaughter-house, the iron market, etc., are quite up to date, and the city even boasts of a crematorium.
My object in coming to Belem (Pará) was merely to see my men safely on board on their return to the Minas Geraes and Goyaz Provinces; also to buy some new cameras and instruments, so that I could start on the second part of my expedition, following the entire course of the Amazon almost up to its source, then cross over the Andes and reach the Pacific Ocean.
My English friends in Pará tried to dissuade me from attempting the journey, as I was in a pitiful condition. What was worse, civilization, instead of making me feel better, was smashing me up altogether. Every day I was getting weaker and weaker, and more exhausted. I had hardly strength to walk about, less still to go up or down stairs. Beri-beri commenced to develop in my right foot, and added to my other trials.
The English consul told me it was absolute folly to try and proceed on such a long journey in such an exhausted state.
Having bought fresh clothes and cameras for my new expedition, I left Pará on November 12th at noon on the excellent ship Anthony of the Booth line, on my way up the Amazon to Manaos.
I will not attempt here to give a description of that amazing river the Amazon--amazing because it is very big and not because it is beautiful, for indeed I do not believe that in all my travels I have ever seen a river quite so ugly and uninteresting as the Amazon.
First of all, it is so big that you seldom see both sides of the river at a time; its waters are muddy and filthy; its climate is damp, oppressive and unhealthy; its vegetation, when you are near enough the banks to see it, is entangled, half-rotted, and smelly. All along one's nostrils are offended by the fetid odour of mud and decayed vegetable matter.
People in Europe seem imbued with the idea that, as you go along the Amazon, you must be attracted by the great number of birds of beautiful plumage, insects and butterflies of all sizes and amazing colours. Occasionally, especially in the early morning and at sunset, one does notice perhaps a flock of green paroquets with yellow foreheads, notable for their peculiar, clumsy, rapid wing-flapping flight and their harsh shrieks when settling on the trees. Occasionally, too, one may see a family of larger parrots dashing across the sky; but, indeed, birds in the lower Amazon are not plentiful by any means, nor, indeed, is their plumage particularly attractive, most birds, except the parrots, being small and very soberly tinted.
As for the melodious songs of birds which civilized people always imagine in the equatorial forest--the song that will set you dreaming while you are basking under palm trees--the actual traveller will find the greatest disappointment of all in that respect. With one or two exceptions, such as the Troglodytes fuscus, a small brown wren which emits sweet musical notes, most birds of the Amazon have grating voices and harsh piercing whistles, or monotonous deep repetitions of two or three funereal notes which are more apt to drive you insane than to fascinate you. Among the most unmusical singers of the lower Amazon may be counted the several families of finches and fly-catchers, and the local thrushes, which feed on ants.
Similar disappointment awaits one in regard to the vegetation. People imagine Brazil a land of beautiful flowers, the forest made up of immense trees with luxuriant foliage, overladen with parasitic orchids--eternally in bloom, of course, in the dreamy minds of the untravelled, and just waiting to be picked and to be placed in one's buttonhole. The sky, naturally, over such a forest, could only be swarming with birds of all sizes, with plumage of the richest colours and hues; and what else could such a luxuriant country have in the way of butterflies and insects than some which resemble precious gems in the iridescent tones of their wings and bodies?
That is what people imagine. The following is what you really see.
The trees, overcrowded everywhere, far from being gigantic, are, instead, mean-looking and anæmic--not unlike the pallid, overgrown youth of the over-populated slums of a great city. Orchids? Yes, there are plenty of orchids about, but you never see them unless you go on a special search for them with a high ladder or some other such means of climbing high trees. In any case, you would not detect them unless you had the eye of an expert. It is well not to forget that in tropical climates, as in temperate zones, plants are not always in bloom when you happen to be passing. As for the butterflies, you seldom see any at all in the actual forest.
Perhaps one of the most common birds of the Amazon is a kind of grey-eyed, noisy, mimicking magpie, locally called guache or japim or jappelin (Cassicus icterranotus), quite amusing with its energetic movements, its observant habits, its familiar interest in everything and everybody, and its facility for reproducing correctly enough sounds which momentarily attract its attention. The wonderful activity of its slender body, clothed in velvety black, neatly-groomed yellow feathers, and its charming wickedness make it, perhaps, one of the most attractive birds near towns and settlements on the river. It builds elongated nests which are 20 to 30 in. in length, the entrance to which is in the lower portion. They are suspended from the branches of trees. As I have said, the large bay near the mouth of the Amazon has been named in honour of this bird.
Another bird of great interest is the araruna (or Macrocerus hyacinthinus), a magnificent macaw of great size, which is perhaps the rarest and most beautiful found in the interior of Brazil from the northern end of the central plateau as far as the Amazon River. Its feathers are of a soft, metallic, dark greyish-blue, almost black, except round the eyes, where the uncovered white skin shows through. I have seen these birds in flight on four or five different occasions on the Tapajoz River, and tried in vain to secure a specimen. I generally saw them in couples, flying at a great height and speed. These birds are extremely intelligent, and become most affectionate and faithful companions to a considerate master. In fact, they will attack any one endeavouring to get near their owners. Their beaks are extremely strong. When in captivity they are disastrous to one's belongings, as they seem to possess an irresistible desire to crush and tear anything they see. They can chip off pieces of furniture made of the hardest wood with considerable ease. This is easily understood when you can see them crush into fragments the extremely hard nuts of the Acrocomia lasiopatha, on which they principally live.
Sir Roger Casement, of Putumayo atrocities fame, whom I had the pleasure of meeting at Manaos, possessed a most beautiful specimen of the Macrocerus hyacinthinus. It was most touching to see the pathetic devotion which existed between master and bird and vice versa. Only the people of the hotel where we both stayed did not appreciate the magnificent blue-black visitor, for when its master was out it spent all its time chipping off pieces from tables and chairs, and took the greatest pride and delight in flinging forks, knives and spoons off the dining-room tables, and tearing the menus to strips. The Brazilian waiters, in their caution to maintain their own anatomy intact, did not dare go near it; for the bird, even on hearing remarks made on its behaviour, would let itself down the sides of chairs and defiantly proceed to attack the intruders.
Similar but larger and more beautiful than this macaw is the ararama, extremely rare and perfectly black. The natives say that it is impossible to keep it in captivity as it is quite untameable. I saw a couple of these birds. They were really magnificent--certainly 3 ft. in length from the tip of the beak to the end of the tail.
When the steamer was close enough to the banks or an island we occasionally saw small groups of assahy palms (Euterpe oleracea) 20 to 30 ft. high, with smooth stems and feather-like foliage. Other palms, equally graceful, with stems like polished columns and delicately-cut fronds aloft, were also to be seen; but otherwise most of the vegetation was entangled and untidy.
From the trees hung liane in festoons or suspended like cords. Creepers of all kinds smothered the trunks and branches of the trees, which seemed to struggle for a little life and air; while, when we had an opportunity of examining the branches of the trees a little closer, we could see absolute swarms of parasites covering every bough.
Near some of the houses could be seen the Musa paradisiaca, the most common kind of banana palm in that region, with its green leaves ten to twelve feet long reflecting beautiful shades like silk velvet when caressed by the wind. I saw one or two specimens of the bread-fruit tree, with its digitated foliage, and several kinds of pine-apple plants (Bromelia)--some with leaves toothed along their edges, others shaped more like the blade of a long knife.
I was in great pain, and could not observe much. Also, most of the time we were at a great distance from the banks, and the river was so wide that it was almost like being in mid-ocean.
On November 14th we passed Obidos, at the mouth of the Rio Trombetas, the narrowest point, where the river went through a channel only 2,000 m. broad, but of extreme depth. The channel was formed by a depression between two hillocks 250 ft. high or so. The settlement of Obidos consisted of two long white buildings near the water, and a series of stores. To the left of the village as we looked at it was a high cliff extending for some 2,000 m. up stream over a beautiful beach. The cliff showed patches of red and yellow rock of a brilliant colour, the lower strata being of a deep red and clearly defined, the upper ones of a raw sienna colour, the dividing-line between the two colours being somewhat undulating. There was dense forest on the summit of the cliff. A good deal of vegetation had crept down and was clinging to the side of the cliff.
A little white church with a pointed spire stood on the highest point of the cliff, close to the town. Behind the cliff rose a hill of some height, upon which the better houses, with red-tiled roofs, were situated. A wide road led up to them.
The water of the stream was of a dirty yellow, and very turbulent owing to the strong wind that was blowing and the violent current. Proceeding up stream, we then came to a hill 300 ft. high on the right, which ended abruptly in an almost vertical red and yellow cliff plunging into the water. On the opposite side of the river, along the narrow neck, were lowlands, quite open and scantily wooded, over which rose great columns of black smoke, caused by the natives burning down the forest in order to prepare the land for their plantations. It was at this point that the entire volume of the Amazon could be gauged at a glance. As you looked up stream a long bluish line of low forest could be perceived over the gradually expanding deep yellow river. Dozens upon dozens of columns of smoke were visible. When night came the effects of those forest fires, with the reflection of the light upon the low clouds and in the water, were very weird and beautiful.
Greetings were occasionally exchanged upon the river as a big ocean steamer went by, or an over-enthusiastic captain let off rockets, which brought all the passengers from the dinner-table to the port-holes. Farther on we came to a pretty plantation on the left with innumerable banana palms crowded together, and some cocoa trees. At one time the exportation of cocoa from that section of the Amazon between Obidos and Santarem was considerable--some 8,000 kilos yearly. I was told that that industry has now gone down a great deal, and not more than 4,000 kilos were exported in 1911.
As we went farther up stream we passed alluvial banks of comparatively recent formation, in some places only one foot above the water and liable to constant inundation--in other places 10 or 12 ft. above the stream, and exposing an abrupt crumbling section of grey clay on a lower stratum with a narrow band of raw sienna colour. This yellow band rarely exceeded a thickness of 1 ft. We had an object-lesson here, where the banks were eroded by water and were gradually crumbling away, of the reason why the trees were so anæmic and generally died. The roots, instead of burrowing deep into the ground, spread out laterally in a horizontal position quite close to the surface of the ground. That night we had a beautiful effect of rain and smoke and the reflection from the fires, a wonderful study of reds and yellows and dark blues which would have fascinated the immortal painter Turner.
Farther on we passed an island 6 ft. above the water with beautiful green grass upon it, wonderful grazing land, and no trees whatever. On both sides of the channel we followed, in fact, we had fine open country all around, which seemed excellent for grazing purposes.
More interesting to me than the river itself were the wonderful effects of the ever-changing light in the sky. I saw no more the wonderful radiations which had given me so much pleasure in Matto Grosso, but we beheld here a great haze of delicate tones up to a great height and a light blue sky above it. The clouds seemed to possess no well-defined form, but were more like masses of mist, the edges blending gradually with the blue of the sky. Only to the west was there an attempt at globular formation in the clouds. The clouds of heavy smoke which rose and rolled about over the landscape helped to render the otherwise monotonous scene a little more picturesque.
Farther up stream we reached on the right a long island almost absolutely free from trees, except at its western end, where a miserable growth of sickly trees covered its point. Beyond was a beautiful spit of red sand some 2,000 m. long.
On November 15th we reached Itaquatiara, where the banks of the river were much higher than usual on the right side. I was much struck by the sight of a lot of fallen timber lying about on the slopes of the high bank, and by that of innumerable logs of wood floating on the water, quite an unusual sight in Brazilian waters. Itaquatiara was placed geographically on a most convenient site, opposite the mouth of the great Madeira River. Now that the Madeira-Mamore railway is completed, bringing down the trade of Bolivia and of the Acre territory, there is no doubt that it will become a most important trading centre. To my mind it is bound to supplant Manaos, which is very inconveniently situated, not on the Amazon River itself but on the tributary Rio Negro.
All the rubber which goes down the Madeira River has so far been conveyed to Manaos by a great detour, involving much expense and time. In the future, I think, when Itaquatiara has developed into a big city, and proper arrangements are made for landing and storing cargoes, it is certain to become a most important centre of commerce. Land is already going up in value tremendously, although Manaos has waged war against the growth of a town at that spot, which will be inimical to her own interests.
As is well known, the Madeira-Mamore railway was built from Porto Velho, on the Madeira River, around and along a series of rapids and waterfalls which rendered navigation most difficult, as far as Guajara Merim, on the river Mamore, a mere continuation of the Madeira River. The construction of the railway had long been contemplated by the Brazilian and Bolivian Governments, but it was a difficult matter owing to the dense forest and the unhealthy climate, which equals, if it does not even surpass, the deadliness of Panama in the time of the French. The works of the railway were begun as long ago as 1878 by Collings Brothers, who were then contractors, but nothing effectively was done until the Brazilian Government, fully realizing the necessity of opening up that rich country, especially after the purchase from Bolivia of the Acre Territory, perhaps one of the richest regions on earth as far as rubber is concerned, entered into a contract with a Brazilian engineer named Catambry, to build the railway. The Brazilian engineer transferred the contract to Mr. Percival Farquhar, who, in his turn, organized the Madeira-Mamore Company, entrusting the actual construction of the railway to Messrs. May, Jeckill & Randolph.
They started work in July, 1907, with preliminary engineering, the actual construction not beginning until January 1908. Work began with one engine, a Baldwin locomotive rebuilt, which had been there since 1878. Gradually the number of engines--all Baldwin locomotives--was increased to twelve. During the construction six tugs and eleven lighters were used on the Madeira River for handling the material. The contractors took into Brazil during the four and a half years occupied in the construction from 43,000 to 45,000 men, although they never had more than 5,000 men working at any one time. Many, indeed, were the deaths registered, and the steamers were constantly bringing back men laid up with fever. The supplies for those men had all to be brought from Europe and America, except sugar and coffee, as nothing could be obtained in the country itself. The four chief engineers were all Americans, Mr. Randolph and Mr. Jeckill, who were at the head of the entire concern, spending all their time on the line in progress or at their head office in Manaos, which was mostly in charge of Mr. May. One chief surgeon, Dr. Carl Lovelace, handled all the hospital work, with the assistance of fifteen physicians; but innumerable were the lives lost from yellow fever and beri-beri, the two most prevalent diseases in that fatal country.
Before the railway was built it was necessary to unload the battellãos or trading boats thirty-eight times during the journey at the thirty-eight different rapids and falls on the way. The journey over the rapids took not less than forty days. I shall not speak of the constant danger to boats, their crews and merchandise. Now by the railway the entire journey occupies from eight to ten hours. The length of the completed railway, now in full working order, is 364 kil. The last rail was laid on April 30th, 1912, when Mrs. Jeckill drove the last and golden spike--an honour which no other white woman, I believe, has ever had in so inhospitable a country.
Chapter XXIV
Attacked by Beri-beri--A Journey up the Madeira River to the Relief of Filippe the Negro and Recovery of Valuable Baggage left with him--Filippe paid off--A Journey up the River Solimeõs--Iquitos
I ARRIVED in Manaos in the evening of November 15th. I was very ill indeed, my right foot so swollen that I could hardly stand on it, and so painful that I could not put on a shoe or even a slipper, so that I had to hop about with only a sock over it. The doctor on board had told me that I was suffering from beri-beri, and although I tried not to believe him I was gradually forced to the conclusion that he was right. In fact, atrophy set in by degrees--one of the characteristics of beri-beri being that after a time you feel no pain at all. You can dig a pin into the affected part, or pluck off all the hairs without feeling the slightest pain. I was in a bad way, although I never laid up for an entire day. From the moment I arrived I "got busy," to use an American expression, in order to go to the rescue of Filippe the negro and another man I had left in charge of my valuable baggage near the mouth of the Canuma River, a tributary of the Madeira. It was necessary for me to borrow or charter a steam launch for one or two days, so that I could save men and baggage. I applied to the Governor of the Amazonas, who had received telegraphic instructions from the Central Government to give me every possible assistance. When I called upon him he said he was not the "black servant" of the President of the Republic; that he was practically an independent ruler, and would obey nobody's orders or instructions, especially from the Central Government.
I told him that the work I had done was principally for the good of Brazil; that all I asked him was to help me to save the lives of two Brazilian citizens, and the maps, photographs, etc., which would be useful chiefly to Brazilians, whatever their political views were. I would gladly pay out of my own pocket, within reasonable bounds, all expenses in connection with the trip. If I had applied to him it was only because I had found it impossible at Manaos to charter a steam launch.
I spread out before the Governor a map of South America, showing the journey I had taken from Rio de Janeiro to Manaos marked in red. The Governor, who had evidently never seen a map before, turned it upside down, mistook the entire map of South America for a map of his own Province, and seemed to be under the impression that the Amazon had its birth close to Rio de Janeiro.
A bitter enemy of all foreigners, especially Englishmen, the Governor was detested by everybody, and was at open war with the Commandante of the Federal troops in the town. All the money which should have been spent in embellishing or improving the town, was mis-spent in keeping a large army of police--over 2,000 men, I believe--for his personal protection.
My audience with the Governor did not last long, and I paid him back in his own coin. He immediately turned round then, with great courtesy begging me to stay and talk matters over, and said that he would be delighted to be of use to me in showing me around the city. I merely turned my back upon him, as I would on any nonentity, and limped out of the palace. Several messages were sent to me afterwards, which I treated with the contempt they deserved.
As nearly all the launches in the place belonged to the Government, I had then to apply to the Commandante of the flotilla of the Government boats. It will be easily understood that my anxiety was great to go and rescue my men; so that on leaving the palace I immediately proceeded to the private house of this gentleman--a great friend of the Governor, I learned afterwards. On sending in my card at five o'clock in the afternoon I was kept waiting a little time, then there appeared a yellow-faced individual in his pyjamas, muttering words which I should not like to repeat.
"What do you want?" he said to me. "Do you not know that I sleep from twelve to six every afternoon? What do you mean by disturbing me? I am sure you would not disturb officers of your own Navy in this way!"
I very politely answered that the officers of my Navy were well known for being wide awake at all times, and not for sleeping the whole day as well as the entire night. When I explained to him, and presented the order from the Minister of Marine requesting any officer of the Brazilian Navy to give every possible assistance, he told me that none of his boats were in a condition to move out; furthermore they were needed, as great political trouble was expected in the city.
I was beginning to feel anxious, as in my weak state it would have been a serious matter for me to undertake the river journey in a small rowing-boat, which journey would have occupied several weeks, when I could have done the whole thing in two or three days at the most in a steam launch. Even a rowing-boat was not obtainable unless you purchased it outright, and if you obtained the boat you could not obtain the men to row it.
It is extraordinary how many things in the world depend on absolute chance. When I returned, sadly disappointed, to the hotel, I met a Swiss gentleman, Dr. Alberto Maso, who was in the employ of the Brazilian Government as delegate of the Minister of Agriculture for the Territory of the Acre. I had met him in Rio de Janeiro a year before. I told him what had happened that day with the Governor and the Commandante of the Flotilla. Dr. Maso immediately took the matter in hand.
That same evening there was a meeting of the Associação Commercial do Amazonas, a most useful society in Manaos composed of the cleverest and soundest business men of that place. I was presented to the President, Mr. J. G. Araujo, and to Dr. Bertino Miranda, the honorary secretary--the latter a man of letters of great distinction, well known not only in his own country but in Latin countries all over Europe as well.
I was received by these gentlemen and the other members of the Association with the greatest consideration, and before I left that evening they assured me that they would procure a launch for me with which to go and rescue my men.
The next morning, in fact, I was taken to call on the Commandante of the Federal troops, who willingly and most courteously placed at my disposal his steam launch. A delay of several days took place, as unfortunately the steam launch had lost her propeller and it was necessary to make a new one. Also the engine had to be repaired, and a crew had to be engaged--a task which gave all those concerned a considerable amount of trouble.
I had, of course, to pay for the maintenance of the crew during the journey, and it cost me nearly a hundred pounds to fit her out with all the plates, knives, cooking utensils, and other paraphernalia necessary for her crew of sixteen men. In any other country three men would have been more than sufficient to run a launch of that size.
I also had to employ at my own expense a pilot--no steamboat was allowed to go without one--whom I had to pay at the rate of £7 15_s._ sterling a day. A cook had to be employed for the crew, as none of the sailors could be induced to condescend to be the chef. Two applicants were eventually found. One who was willing to do the cooking at a salary of £3 10_s._ a day, his chief ability, said he, consisting in boiling rice and fish. Another fellow eventually undertook the job at a salary of £1 10_s._ a day, he being willing to do the cooking at such a small salary as he said he had never in his life cooked before, and he did not know whether we should care for his cooking or not. It must not for one moment be believed that these men were trying to cheat me, and putting on prices, for indeed these are the current rates for everybody who wishes to travel in those regions. The cost of commodities of any kind in Manaos was excessive, and went beyond even the limits of robbery. I went into a chemist's shop to purchase a small bottle of quinine tablets, worth in England perhaps eightpence or a shilling. The price charged there was £2 10_s._
Principally owing to the Booth Line Steamship Company and the allied companies, Manaos has become a good-sized place. The Harbour Works and the works made by the Manaos Improvements, Ltd., have been a great boon to that place, and have made it almost as civilized as a third-class European city. But obstacles have been placed in the way of honest foreign companies carrying on their work successfully, the unscrupulous behaviour of the Governor and the attitude of the mob having proved serious drawbacks to the development of the place.
Large sums of money have been wasted in building a strawberry-coloured theatre of immense size and of appalling architectural lines, on the top of which has been erected a tiled dome of gigantic proportions over an immense water-tank in order to protect the theatre against fire. The water-tank was calculated to let down a great cascade of water, a regular Niagara, on the flames--as well as on the spectators, I presume. After it had been built it was discovered that if water were let into the tank, its weight would be enough to bring down the entire upper part of the theatre; so that it could never be filled at all.
Except for one or two short avenues, which reminded one of the suburbs of new North American cities, there was nothing worth seeing in Manaos. The shops were almost entirely those of jewellers, gunsmiths, sweet-sellers, and chemists. It was in this place that the poor seringueiros, on their return from rubber collecting, were in a few hours robbed of all the money they had made during several months' hard work. There was only one redeeming feature in Manaos: the British and American business men in the place were most charming and hospitable in every possible way.
It was on December 3rd, 1911, that everything was ready. The hour of departure had been fixed for ten o'clock in the evening. I went on board at the appointed time, but the captain of the launch and the crew refused to put out of the anchorage, as they said they would not go unless some extra men were employed. One of the pipes of the engine had been wilfully damaged, so that delay was caused, and we could not possibly start until it had been repaired. The captain of the launch had worried me for several days. He was in a constant state of intoxication.
* * * * *
On December 4th, at 11 p.m., I was actually able to make my departure from Manaos on the launch Amazonas. I took in tow a rowing-boat which had been lent me by the representative of the Minister of Agriculture in Manaos.
By 8.30 in the morning of December 5th we entered the mouth of the Madeira River. I was surprised at the sudden change in the appearance of the two rivers. We saw in the Madeira high, gently sloping banks, covered with verdant grass and neat trees and palms along the top of them; whereas along the Amazon the trees stood almost in the water on the recently formed islands and banks. The left bank of the Madeira was of grey and reddish clay (grey below, red above), cut vertically, sometimes actually in steps. Blocks of a rectangular shape, in getting dried up, split and fell over, leaving the banks vertical. The right bank, on the contrary, was gently sloping, descending with a beautiful carpet of green grass into the stream. The islands were charming, with lovely lawns all round. Blackish and deep red rock, vertical and fluted, and with innumerable perforations, could be seen here and there, covered over with a padding of earth from ten to twenty feet deep.
The journey up the Madeira River had no great interest. By seven o'clock in the evening we arrived at the mouth of the Canuma River--or rather at a channel connecting the Madeira River with the river Canuma, which river actually has its proper mouth about half-way between Itaquatiara and Santarem, at a place called Parintins. By way of the connecting channel the two rivers were only a short distance apart, but that channel was not always navigable. The steam launch, which drew little water, would have difficulty in going through, even at that time, when the water was fairly high.
We therefore thought we would stay for the night at the mouth of the channel, and start on our journey by that difficult passage in broad daylight the next day. There was a house on the right-hand side of the mouth of the channel. While we made preparations to make ourselves comfortable for the night on the launch, the pilot went up to the house in order to get an expert at that place to take us through the dangerous channel.
I was just in the middle of my dinner when the pilot sent down a message for me to go up to the house at once, as my presence was required immediately. I struggled up the steep incline, not knowing what was up. Much to my amazement, on reaching the house, I saw before me my man Filippe the negro, who rushed at me and embraced me tenderly, and the other man I had left with him in charge of the baggage. The two men had been picked up by a boat two days up the river Canuma, where I had left them with my baggage, and they had come down expecting to meet me in Manaos. They had got stranded at that place, and although they had hailed one or two steamers which had gone down the river, no one had paid any attention to them, and there they had remained.
"Have you saved the photographs and the baggage, Filippe?" I immediately asked, when I had made certain that both men were in good condition.
"Yes," said Filippe. "I have everything with me. I have taken the greatest care of everything."
That was for me a happy moment, after all the vicissitudes we had had of late. The most important part of my baggage was saved. I had taken all my men back alive--if perhaps not very much alive--after so fateful an expedition. I felt happy beyond words.
The man who owned the house was the trader who had taken Filippe and the other man down the river in his boat, so I gave him a present of money and also a lot of provisions which I had on board and which we should not now need any more, as we should return at once to Manaos.
Next morning, all as happy as possible, we steamed down full speed on our way back to Manaos. We came in for dirty weather all the time, which obliged us to halt for several hours and put into Itaquatiara for shelter. A few hours later we were once more in the capital of the Amazonas, in the city of jewellers' shops and filthy food. On landing I found Maxim guns and artillery on one side of the principal square, with police troops in charge of them ready to fire; while on the other side were the Federal troops, also with their artillery ready for battle. It was with some concern that I found myself obliged to pass between those warlike bodies in order to enter the hotel. I was not so anxious for myself as I was for my photographic negatives and note-books, after I had taken all that trouble to save them.
However, the Governor at the last moment became scared, and went personally to call on the Commandante of the Federal troops in order to assure him of his friendship and affection, so that after all no battle took place that day.
Only a short time previously the flotilla had bombarded the town. The people of Manaos had got so accustomed to those little excitements that they thought nothing of them. There were occasionally a few people killed, but that was all.
It will be remembered that the idée fixe of Filippe the negro was to buy himself a mallettinha (a little trunk). The first thing he had asked me after I had rescued him was if I had seen any good mallettinhas in Manaos. So after landing we at once proceeded to buy a tin mallettinha with a strong lock. Then I paid him off and gave him an ample reward, as he had been the pluckiest and most faithful of all my men. He was certainly the man who had given me the least trouble of the entire lot.
Filippe had tears in his eyes when he received his pay and present. He embraced me and thanked me a million times for having made him a rich man.
"After all," said he, "we have suffered a great deal, but now I shall be happy for ever. I shall marry the girl who is waiting for me at home."
"If ever I come out on another journey, Filippe, will you go with me again?" I asked him.
Filippe pondered for a moment. "Yes," he said with determination. "I have proved to you that I am afraid of nothing. You only have to order me, and I will go with you. Even if we are to suffer again as we have suffered on this journey!"
Filippe was a good fellow.
The other man when paid off received his money and his reward silently. He went out into the street, and returned four hours later without one single penny. He had purchased an expensive suit of clothes, a number of silk neckties, a gold chain, watch, etc.
The next morning there was a steamer sailing for Rio de Janeiro, so I packed off the jubilant Filippe, paying a second-class passage for him on the steamer and a first-class on the railway, as I had done for the other men, with wages up to the day of his arrival in Araguary, his native town.
Thus I saw the last of that plucky man--the only one who had remained of the six who had originally started with me.
On December 16th I left Manaos for good on my way to Peru, escorted to the good Booth Line steamer Atahualpa by the Commandante of the Federal troops, the representatives of the Associação Commercial, Dr. Maso, and some of my English and American friends.
It was with the greatest delight that I saw Manaos vanish away from sight as we descended the Rio Negro. Rounding the point at its mouth, steaming towards the west, we entered the Solemões River. This river is navigable by fairly good-sized boats as far as Iquitos, in the province of Loreto in Peru.
I was badly in need of rest, and expected to get it on those few days of navigation up the river, having dreamt of how I could lie on deck and do nothing, as that part was well known and there was no work for me to do. But, indeed, on that journey none of my dreams were realized, for, worse luck, the steamer, which had only accommodation for ten, carried not less than seventy or eighty passengers, fifty of them forming part of a Spanish theatrical company which was on its way to Iquitos. The deck of the ship had been turned into a kind of theatre, where rehearsals went on day and night. When the rehearsals were not going on, the men and women, following the usual habits of theatrical people, sang and practised flights of notes--which was a little trying after the dead silence of the forest.
However, thanks to the great civility of the managers of the Booth Line at Manaos, and to the extreme thoughtfulness of the captain of the Atahualpa, I was made quite comfortable in the chart-room of the ship, which was as far away as possible from the noise. We were most of the time in mid-stream. The river was so wide that we could not see anything on either side. We steamed up day after day, occasionally passing islands of some beauty rising above the muddy waters of the Solimões. Navigation of that river was difficult, as the navigable channels were constantly changing, islands disappearing and new islands forming all the time. Elich Island, in the Timbuctuba group, was fast disappearing, while another island was forming just below it.
We passed the mouth of the Putumayo River at sunset one day, a most wonderful effect of clouds being produced over a brilliant cadmium yellow and vermilion sky, shining with great brightness above the dark green trees upon a high reddish cliff.
In a drenching morning at five o'clock we reached Esperança, the Brazilian frontier post, which consisted of half a dozen one-storied houses with red-tiled roofs, situated on a grassy expanse. Grassy hills of no great height rose at the mouth of the Javari River, a southern tributary of the Solimões River, forming there the boundary between Brazil and Peru. Dark green foliage perched high up on asparagus-like stems of trees formed a background to that wretchedly miserable place.
Tabatinga, on the left side of the stream, was the Brazilian military post on the frontier. A neatly-built, loopholed, square blockhouse, painted white, was situated some fifty feet above the level of the river on the summit of the bank. It was reached by a long flight of white cement steps. The Brazilian flag flew gaily upon a flagstaff at this most westerly point of the great Brazilian Republic on the Amazon (Solimões) River.
A few soldiers dressed in khaki stood, with their legs wide apart, watching the arrival of the steamer, while their officers in speckless white clothes hastily descended the long flight of steps and came on board, bringing bouquets of flowers to the captain.
There was a pretty garden near the blockhouse. Three mountain guns pointed viciously at the river from the most exposed position in Tabatinga at the top of the staircase. According to the account of a non-commissioned officer, there was a force there of 240 soldiers "escondido no matto"--that is to say, kept hidden in the forest!
After we had passed the frontier on the north side of the river, a tiny tributary brook, almost hidden by the vegetation and only identified by a white-barked tree on the left bank and huts on either side, the scenery made a change for the better.
Leticia was the name of the Peruvian frontier post, which consisted of two or three brick sheds with corrugated iron roofs.
We arrived at Iquitos on December 23rd, at 8.30 a.m., having employed seven days and twenty hours on our run from Manaos.
Chapter XXV
From Iquitos to the Foot of the Andes up the Rivers Ucayalli, Pachitea and Pichis--The Cashibos or "Vampire Indians"
THE change in the characteristics of the people the moment you were in Peru was considerable, and striking was the neatness of the buildings. Iquitos was a pleasant little city, the streets of which needed paving badly, but were otherwise well aligned and tidy. There were numbers of foreigners there, including a small English colony made up of employés of the Booth Line and the representatives of a few commercial houses. It is difficult to realize how pleasant Englishmen can be when they live in those out-of-the-way places.
After the Putumayo atrocities a proper English Consulate, in charge of Mr. Mitchell, formerly our vice-consul in Paris, had been established there. Yellow fever was rampant at that time in Iquitos, and reaped many victims daily.
Although Iquitos was 2,300 kil. farther up the river than Manaos, the price of all commodities in that country was less than half those in Manaos, and the quality of the articles twice as good. That is what comes of having free trade instead of a high tariff.
I spent a pleasant Christmas in Iquitos, all the English residents there showing me the greatest kindness. From Iquitos the river was no longer navigable for ocean-going steamers, and it was necessary to travel by small launches. There was no regular service, but there were a number of trading launches which went a certain distance up the river in order to trade with the different houses on the banks of the stream. The travelling was not particularly rapid, as one stopped ten or twenty times a day, and wasted endless time while the people came on board to buy beer or rum, or cotton goods, looking-glasses, etc., etc. Rubber and aigrettes, as well as money, were given in exchange for the goods received.
I left Iquitos on December 29th, on the launch Rimac, belonging to the Swiss firm of Messikommer. I was told that she would be ready to start at 9 a.m. sharp on December 28th, and at that time I got on board. The actual time of our departure was at 6.30 in the afternoon of December 29th. That was, of course, Iquitos punctuality.
The Prefect of the Province of Loreto had shown me much civility, and had telegraphed, by the wireless installation which had been established between Iquitos and Lima, making every possible arrangement for me to travel quickly. Thus, although in a terrible condition of health, I was able to make a record journey between Iquitos and Lima, the capital of Peru.
Once started in the launch Rimac, we went through interesting channels, outlets of the main stream being often noticeable on either bank, cutting wide passages through the forest and forming one or more shallow lakelets, with innumerable aquatic plants on the surface of the water. As we went farther it became easy to understand how islands were constantly forming in the river. Quantities of large and small logs of wood were continually floating down the stream; the banks were gradually being eaten away by the current. Whole trees fell down with their immense branches and polypi-like roots, and formed a barrier arresting the progress of the floating wood. Particles of earth deposited by wind and by water saturated with impurities settled there. Soon grass would begin to grow on those deposits, which quickly collected more deposits of flying and floating particles. The soft bottom of the river, disturbed by the deviated current, piled up mud against the submerged branches resting on the river-bed. Quickly an island was then formed; more wood accumulated, more grass, more mud; the base of the islands would increase rapidly, and in the space of a few years islands several kilometres in length rose above the water.
We had reached a point where the two great rivers Marañon and Ucayalli--both descending from the Andes--joined and formed the river Solimões, which we had so far navigated. We followed the Ucayalli.
On December 31st we entered a small arm on the left side of the river and we reached no less a place than New York--very dissimilar, I can assure you, from its namesake of the United States of North America. Far from seeing skyscrapers, brilliantly illuminated streets, and ferry-boats and steamers galore, there were only half a dozen thatched huts with bona-palm walls and floors. In the water floated two or three small canoes; that was all. The place was chiefly remarkable for the number and the fierceness of its mosquitoes--regular clouds of them. Only one thing New York of Ucayalli seemed to have in common with New York of the United States--the people seemed to be able to stand a lot of drink. They purchased from the Rimac a number of boxes of beer.
We proceeded. In a way it was amusing to travel on a trading boat. Every time we approached a hut the steamer blew her whistle; the people got up, at any time of the night, to come on board and see what there was for sale. I slept on deck, and from my bed could see what was going on all the time.
St. Helena came next, with its depot and farmhouse. A few cows could be seen grazing on the poorest kind of grass. We could often get good fruit at those farmhouses, principally bananas, pineapples, and mamão. Then we stopped at Requeña, on the left bank of the river, where a wireless telegraphic station of the Telefunken system was established. It was quite a nice little place, with a few houses, built of unbaked clay and roofed with zinc.
It was entertaining to watch the pride of the local gentlemen when they showed me their houses--mere sheds of the humblest description, but in their eyes far superior to any palace of Europe. An imported chair or an antiquated desk would supply them with conversation to last hours. The wives of those settlers were generally eccentric persons who looked suspiciously at us. One of them at Requeña made me feel most uncomfortable by the annoying way in which she looked at my only shoe--as I was unable to put a shoe on the other much swollen foot. She never took her eyes off that shoe, and stooped down many times to examine it closer.
A short distance from Requeña, still on the left side of the river, was the mouth of the Tapiche River, a tributary of the Ucayalli. On the right bank of this river was California, and then Avispa--a pretty spot. Two new red-roofed houses with large verandas stood prominent on a green grassy hill about 120 ft. high, while on the ridge in continuation of the hill itself could be seen a number of small houses, some with zinc roofs, others with bona roofs and walls.
The Ucayalli was a rich stream. It was interesting to notice how many trading launches were to be seen on that river, and the amazing part of it was that they could all exist. Hardly a day went by that we did not meet two or three launches. We were also constantly meeting canoes, generally hollowed out of tree-trunks, and larger boats of a more solid construction.
The population was entirely composed of a mixture of Spanish and Indian types and of pure Indians. Some of the latter had Mongolian characteristics; others were more of the Malay and Papuan types.
After the first day or two the voyage on the launch was tedious. One got tired of the endless conversation and of listening to the bargaining. The perpetual drinking which had to be witnessed was of little interest to a teetotaller. One seldom saw money change hands, all being done by barter, the merchandise we had on board being exchanged chiefly for rubber. Even so far up the river civilization had well set in, and great caution was needed in buying balls of rubber. It was advisable to split them in two before purchase, as they generally contained all kinds of rubbish instead of pure coagulated latex.
After Brazil, however, the villages and houses of Peru looked clean and neat.
The prices of food were somewhat high, chickens fetching 4_s._ each, whereas in Iquitos they fetched from 8_s._ to 10_s._; eggs sold for 6_d._ each, and were generally bad, the good ones being eaten by the people themselves.
We went up the Tapiche River, a tributary on the right bank, and visited the estate newly bought by an American company. In fact, we were there at midnight of December 31st, and drank in the New Year with Mr. Anzelius, the director, and his Polish and Italian assistants.
On January 2nd, 1912, we saw a great many Indians along the banks of the river, who ran away when they saw the camera pointed at them.
The people on that river were fond of giving high-sounding names to their houses. We passed a place called Philadelphia, where a large farm with lean cattle, ducks and fowls, could be seen, looking as miserable as possible; also plenty of banana palms and sugar-cane.
Some way off, after passing the large saw-mills of Cumaseba and Tamanco, where an interesting collection of animals and Indian weapons had been made by the proprietor, we came in the evening to the farm of Buenos Aires.
Early on January 3rd we passed San Roque, and then Condorcanqui, a fine plantation of bananas along the river bank, and also a plantation of yuta (jute) and some bread trees. Clouds of aigrette storks could be seen in the evening circling about, thousands and thousands of them. They produced a most curious effect in the distance against the heavy black clouds of the sky.
We entered the Yanna Yakka stream, the water of which was almost absolutely stagnant and as black as ink, full of snakes, fish, and crocodiles. Yanna Yakka in the local Indian language means "black water." We steamed for two hours up that river as far as Porto Central, the river being quite narrow--only 150 m. wide. We eventually arrived at the prettiest spot I had so far seen on the river, called Porto Principal. On an elongated island not more than 80 m. wide were to be seen four large buildings of bona palm, with spacious verandas and corrugated iron roofs. The buildings were connected by high bridges. All those structures were built on piles 12 ft. high. Many chapaha palms of great height were to be seen there.
I heard at that place an extraordinary account of how a dirigible balloon, with nobody on board, had some few years before passed over the house. The balloon--which my informant, in his ignorant language, called a "huge square globe"--flew, according to him, a flag, the stars and stripes, and had an anchor dangling down. The balloon was travelling in a westerly direction. It flew a little higher than the trees, and caused a great scare among the natives. My informant told me that there was no one in the car at all, but they waved their hands at him (sic) when they passed over his house! He then told me that the air-ship had passed in the daytime and had quickly disappeared, but that it was beautifully lighted with coloured lights at night. So that it would be difficult from that truthful account to place much reliance on what the man said or on what he had seen at all. It is quite possible--after discarding all the indisputable embroidery from the story--that a balloon actually went over that place, and it may probably have been Wellman's abandoned balloon with which he had tried to go across the Atlantic.
On January 3rd and 4th we had no great excitement. We stopped at numberless places. Nearly all the houses in that district were made in three sections, the two end rooms enclosed in bona-palm walls, while the central and larger room had two open sides. All the houses were perched up on piles, owing to the frequent inundations. Sewing-machines and gramophones were to be found in nearly every house. All the women wore, rather becomingly over such ugly countenances, the valuable hats which generally go under the name of "Panamas." The river was getting beautiful as we went farther up, immense grassy stretches being visible where the country was not inundated, and low shrubs emerging from the water in the many channels that were formed everywhere.
On January 5th we arrived at Terra Blanca, where a lakelet had been formed by an outlet of the river on the left bank. A place called Pernambuco was situated at the entrance of this lake. The water of the lake was beautifully clear and of a wonderful greenish colour. Beautiful white and yellow sand deposits were to be found around it. Five hundred people lived at Pernambuco. The Rimac did a brisk trade, over a hundred pounds sterling worth of goods being sold in an hour at that place.
On January 6th I saw the first hills of importance we had seen since leaving the lower Amazon. Those were the hills of Petronilla, where a mass of volcanic rocks and some interesting hot springs were to be found. A ridge ran from south-east to north-west in symmetrical undulations up to 1,000 ft. from Petronilla to Cancha Huayo. It rose quite abruptly from the flat alluvial land. Where a land-slide had occurred it showed an upper stratum of grey alluvial deposit 10 ft. thick, with soft yellow volcanic rock underneath, in a stratum of 30 ft. thick. It seemed as if that hill had been lifted up by volcanic pressure from underneath, as a lot of white and yellow sand had been brought to the surface, which evidently formed a substratum in the Ucayalli region.
We found strong whirlpools where the channel of the river formed an elbow at the foot of the mountain. The steam launch made poor progress against the strong current.
On January 7th we arrived at the large settlement of Condamano, a sub-Prefecture in the big province of Loreto. There were two parallel streets, clean and well kept, with others intersecting at right angles. On the main street along the water front were many large commercial houses, handsome buildings of caña walls and zinc roofs. The place had been built on a flat high land about 30 ft. above the river, and had some 1,500 to 2,000 inhabitants. One of the peculiarities of Condamano was that during the rubber-collecting season the population consisted almost entirely of women, as the men were in the forest collecting the latex.
We arrived there on a feast day--they have more feast days than working days in the week in that country--and the streets were alive with monks and soldiers, the only men who do not go collecting rubber. Women and girls, in flesh-coloured stockings and lace mantillas, flocked out of the church, each carrying a small carpet which they used to prevent spoiling their finery when kneeling down.
On leaving Condamano we came to the north-westerly end of the range we had seen the day before. It ended abruptly in almost vertical walls of yellow sandstone of various shades. The range was thickly wooded on its summit. The opposite bank of the river was absolutely flat.
That evening we came in for a heavy storm, which compelled us to halt from 6 o'clock until 2.10 a.m. Black clouds had accumulated overhead to the west. A boisterous gust of wind suddenly caught us, which swept off our chicken-coop, buckets, and other loose things which were on the roof of the launch. We were tossed about in a most alarming way, and were just able to tie up under shelter and make fast to some trees. The wind increased in fury, and the launch tore up her moorings, bringing down a big tree on the top of us with a tremendous crash.
There was a stampede on board, as everybody thought we had been struck by lightning. Some of the people were just able to jump on shore, while other Peruvians, men and women, scared to death by the diabolic clashing of thunder and the vivid lightning, knelt on the decks and prayed fervently that we might escape unhurt.
I had a narrow escape, a lighted petroleum lamp which swung above getting off its hook and falling on my head, upsetting all the petroleum over me. Fortunately it went out as it fell on me. In the middle of the night we had a great deal of trouble to make the boat fast once more, the waves in the river being of great height. The rattle of all the merchandise and broken crockery on board, the moans of the scared Peruvians, with the howling of the wind, made a regular pandemonium.
When we proceeded up the river next morning we came upon more interesting islands in course of formation. We saw quantities of caña baraba, wild cane, with its fan-disposed, elongated leaves. The natives used the reeds for walling their houses. Being absolutely straight, they are well adapted for that purpose.
On January 9th we passed several villages. Along the banks we saw many Indians, all dressed up in bright costumes, principally red shawls. We entered a tiny channel on the right bank and went as far as a place called San Jeronimo, a fairly large settlement. This small channel was, as late as 1895, the main stream, which has since been diverted by the formation of a low island. At sunset we perceived to the west what appeared at first a mass of low clouds revolving in a circle at a great speed. On closer inspection we found it to be millions of garças or aigrette storks flying in a circle.
I arrived in the evening of January 10th at Masisea, where another wireless telegraph station had been established by the Peruvian Government. At this place I left the launch Rimac, and found the Government launch Esploradora, which had been detained there by the Prefect of Loreto for two days, awaiting my arrival. Having transhipped at once, I was able to proceed on January 11th on the latter. She was to take me as far as possible toward the foot of the Andes.
As we proceeded up the river we saw extensive farms surrounded by clearings of good land, with lots of cattle and horses, especially on the left bank of the river. We purchased an ox, so as to have fresh meat on board.
The small launch was, unfortunately, packed with a great many Peruvian travellers. There were no cabins, and one had to sleep on the roof of the launch. Everybody was most civil, and with the new camp-bed I had purchased in Manaos I was able to make myself as comfortable as was possible under the circumstances.
Beautiful specimens of cataua trees of great height were constantly to be seen in the forest along the banks. The resin from these trees is extremely poisonous, and is much used by the local Indians for killing fish. We halted for five hours that day in order to take on board sufficient wood for the engines to last us the entire journey. At 6.30 that afternoon we left the Ucayalli river and entered the tributary Pachitea, on the left side, the Ucayalli describing a big curve where the Pachitea enters it. Just before reaching the mouth of the Pachitea, the Ucayalli had first a big arm deviating from the main stream on the left bank, then soon after another great arm also on the left side. The navigation of those rivers was now getting difficult, and we had to halt at night.
On January 12th we started up the Pachitea River, a stream much smaller than the Ucayalli, but more interesting. Soon after departing we could perceive in the distance before us a high hill range. Crocodiles and white storks were innumerable, while fallen trees impeded navigation constantly. Once or twice we banged with such force against immense floating logs of wood that it made the launch quiver in a most alarming way. In the dirty water of the stream it was not always possible to detect the floating logs, which sometimes were just under the surface of the water. Immense quantities of caña baraba were to be seen on the banks, and great numbers of delicately-tinted violet flowers which enlivened the landscape. The caña had light violet-coloured panaches, which were much used by the Indians in the manufacture of their arrows. The banks were of alluvial formation. Islets of grey sand mixed with volcanic ashes could be seen. The current was strong.
We saw large families of ciancias--beautiful birds with velvety black bodies speckled with white, and fan tails of rich brown colour, feathers of the same colour being also on the outer half of the wings. They possessed slender, most elegant necks, small brown-crested heads, and light yellow chests. Seen at a distance they were not, in shape, unlike pheasants. Twenty or thirty together at a time could be seen playing among the lower branches of the trees along the edge of the river. Then there were small birds of a beautiful metallic blue-black, with very long tails; these latter were innumerable near the water.
The rainy season was in full swing. In the morning we generally had white mist rising among the trees, while during the day rain was usually plentiful and rendered travelling somewhat monotonous, as we could not see much. We saw many specimens of the tagua or yarina, a small palm, the leaves of which were used in that region for roofing houses. At last we came to the first rocks I had seen in the river since leaving the Tapajoz River. They were at the double whirlpool of Naittavo. At the island of Errera was a narrow channel only 30 to 40 m. wide, where the current was extremely strong, and just deep enough for our launch, which drew 5 ft. of water. The upstream end of the island was strewn with logs of wood, forming a kind of barrage, the water of the dividing stream being thrown with great force against it. It was here that we got the first sight of high mountains--a great change after the immense stretches of flat land we had encountered all along the Amazon, Solimões and Ucayalli. I saw some beautiful specimens of the idle or sleepy monkey, the preguya, a nocturnal animal with wonderful fur. The small launch was swung about with great force from one side to the other by the strong current and whirlpools. We saw a number of Cashibos (Carapaches and Callisecas) on the right bank of the river. They are said to be cannibals, but personally I rather doubt it. If they have occasionally eaten a missionary or two, I believe that it must have been rather as a religious superstition than because of the actual craving for human flesh. Also it is possible that, as is the case with many African tribes, the Cashibos may believe that eating an enemy gives strength and courage, and may have indulged in this practice purely on that account. So that I do not think that it is fair to call those Indians cannibals in the true sense of the word, any more than it would be fair to call a teetotaller a drunkard because he took a drink or two of brandy for medicinal purposes.
The word "Cashibo" in the Pana language means vampire. Those Indians are great fighters, and are in a constant state of hostility with all their neighbours. They are good hunters and fishermen. Their weapons are well made, and consist of bow and arrows, spears and war-clubs. The Callisecas and Carapaches are very light in colour, with a yellowish skin, not darker than that of the average Spaniard. They are fine-looking people, fairly hairy on the face and body. The men grow long beards. Men and women generally go about naked, but some of the Indians near the river have adopted long shawls in which they wrap themselves. After marriage the women wear a loin-cloth, but nothing at all before marriage. The girls when young are attractive, with luminous, expressive, dark brown eyes. These Cashibos are supposed to be the "white race" of the Amazon. They are nevertheless not white at all, but belong to a yellow race, although they are, as I have said, of a light yellow colour. Many yellow races have come under my observation in the islands of the Pacific Ocean, who were just as light as the Cashibos, such as the Bilans and Manobos, and some who were even whiter than they are, such as the Mansakas of the Mindanao Island. The Cashibos are wild people, and the settlers in the neighbourhood are much afraid of them.
On January 13th, when we were three days out from Masisea, we were travelling between high rocky hills with almost vertical sides. Their section showed in the lower portion narrow bands of violet-coloured rock and white light stone in a horizontal stratum. Above that had accumulated a deep layer from 30 to 100 ft. thick of red earth.
We went across a dangerous whirlpool. The launch hardly had enough strength to pull through at full speed. The water all around us formed great circles with deep central hollows, and, as we went through, rose before us like a wall. It had quite an impressive effect. That particular whirlpool was called Sheboya. Soon afterwards we obtained a beautiful view of the high range--the Sira mountains.
On January 14th we went over the whirlpool of Marques, a most picturesque sight. On the banks of the river was plenty of rubber, hevea, but not of quite such good quality as that found in Brazil. Some of the trees exuded white and some yellow latex, the coloration being probably due to the quality of the soil. There were few habitations along the banks of the Pachitea River. There were tribes of the Campas (or Antis) and Cashibos Indians, the members of both races having marked Malay characteristics. Occasionally one met extraordinary people in those out-of-the-way regions. When we halted for wood, which we used instead of coal for our engine, a man some six feet four inches in height came on board--quite an extraordinary-looking person. To my amazement, when I spoke to him, he turned out to be a man of refined taste and quite highly educated. He was a Hungarian count and an officer in the Austrian army, who, having got into trouble in his own country, had gone to settle there.
From a place called Cahaubanas, at the confluence of the river Pichis with the Pachitea, it was possible to cross over on foot to the Mayro, a stream which flowed into the Palcazu, and in two more days' walking (about 75 kil.), the German colony of Potzuzu could be reached at the meeting-place of the Potzuzu River with the Uancabamba. From the German colony 158 kil. more would bring you to Uanuco, and 138 kil. farther on was Serra de Pasco, whence the railway went to Lima.
Another trail from Cahaubanas proceeded to Chuchura, about 50 kil. higher up the Mayro river. From there it was possible to cross the Yanachag Mountains and reach the settlement of Uancabamba. The distance from Cahaubanas to Chuchura was one and a half day's walking--some 40 kil. of heavy climbing, that from Chuchura to Uancabamba two days' marching. From Uancabamba one was able to get mules in order to go over the high pass of Culebra Marca and reach Serra de Pasco.
It was possible by that trail to reach Lima in a few days on foot. It was out of the question for me to attempt such a journey, the attack of beri-beri in my right leg making it almost impossible for me to stand up. I decided to go as far up the stream as I could on the launch and by canoe.
At Cahaubanas were a monastery and a great many Indians. After halting for the night at that place we continued our journey up the Pachitea with a strange medley of passengers on board. We had the Hungarian count, an Italian farmer, who was a remarkable musician and played the accordion beautifully; we had some Peruvians, a Spanish emigrant, a small Indian boy aged ten who acted as steward, and a young fellow of German origin.
The cook on the launch was a lunatic, who was under the impression that he was the Saviour. It was too pathetic, and occasionally quite alarming, to see the poor man leaving the cooking stove whenever we passed any Indians on the banks, when he raised his arms up in the air and, stretching them forward, gave his benediction to the people he saw, instead of looking after the boiling rice. His benedictions cost him frequent kicks and shakings by the neck on the part of the captain of the launch. He was absorbed in fervent praying during the night. He seldom condescended to speak to any of us on board, as he said that he was not living on this earth, but would come back some day to bring peace and happiness to the whole world. Words of that kind were uttered whilst he was holding a saucepan in one hand and a ladle in the other. It was pathetic.
In pouring rain we left again on January 16th between the high rocky banks of the river, well padded with earth and with dense vegetation. Extensive beaches of grey sand and coarse gravel were passed, until we arrived at Port Bermudez, situated at the confluence of the Pichis with the Chibbis, a tributary on the left bank. Here we found the last of the chain of wireless stations which had three iron towers. From that place a telephone and telegraph wire have been installed right over the Andes and down to Lima.
The passage on the Government launch from Masisea to Bermudez cost £7 10_s._ I heard there that, thanks to the arrangements which had been made by the Prefect of the Loreto Province, the number of mules I required in order to cross the Andes was duly waiting for me at the foot of that great chain of mountains.
I therefore lost no time, and on January 17th, having left the launch Esploradora, proceeded in a canoe with all my baggage intending to navigate as far as possible the river Pichis, a tributary of the Pachitea, formed by the united Nazaratec and Asupizu rivers.
The landscape was getting very beautiful, the Sungaro Paro Mountains rising to a great height on the south-west. Immense lubuna trees, not unlike pines in shape, were the largest trees in that region--from 5 to 6 ft. in diameter. The current was so strong that we were unable to reach the spot where the mules were awaiting me, and I had to spend the night on a gravel beach.
The next morning, however, January 18th, after passing two small rapids, where my men had to go into the water in order to pull the canoe through, I arrived at Yessup, where my mules were awaiting me, and where there was a tambo or rest-house, kept beautifully clean.
The distance by water from Iquitos to Masisea was 980 kil.; from Masisea to Puerto Bermudez 520 kil.; from Puerto Bermudez to Yessup 40 kil.
XXVI. Across the Andes--The End of the Trans-continental Journey
I WAS fortunate in obtaining some excellent Peruvian muleteers to accompany me on the expedition over the Andes. The trip might have been a rough one for the ordinary traveller, but for me it was a real holiday excursion, after the horrible time I had experienced in Brazil. This notwithstanding the disagreeable weather I encountered during the fourteen days' rough riding which I employed in reaching the Pacific Ocean.
I started at once with my pack animals on the trail which has been cut by the Peruvian Government over the mountains. Rain came down in torrents. Most of the country was swampy, the mules sinking chest-deep in mud. The travelling was not exactly what you would call pleasant. Your legs dangled all the time in water and slush. As that trail was used by caravans, the mules had cut regular transverse grooves in the ground all along, in which successively they all placed their hoofs. Each groove was filled with slushy water, and was separated from the next by a mud wall from one to three feet high. The mules were constantly stumbling and falling. After you had travelled a short distance you were in a filthy condition, the torrential rain washing down the splashes of mud and spreading them all over you.
After leaving Yessup we crossed first the Sinchhuaqui river, then the Aguachini. We began to ascend two kilometres after we had left Yessup, and marched steadily the entire day among gigantic aguaso trees and wonderful ferns of great height, until we reached the Miriatiriami tambo, 27 kil. from Yessup.
On January 19th we followed the River Azupizu along a narrow trail from 300 to 400 ft. above the level of the river, with an almost vertical drop by the side of us. Huge palms and ferns of indescribable beauty were to be seen all along, while waterfalls and streamlets constantly crossed the trail.
We encountered that day deep mud all the way, the mules sinking up to their bellies in the slush. The trail along the mountain side was cut in the soft earth, and actually formed a deep groove only about two feet wide, the mud and slush being held by the solid transverse barriers which succeeded one another at short intervals.
At Piriatingalini and Puchalini we found light cable suspension bridges, very shaky, which swung to and fro as you rode over them. Most of them were not more than four feet wide and had no parapet at all. I cannot say that I felt particularly happy when my mule--sure-footed, I grant--took me across, the bridge swinging, quivering, and squeaking with our weight on it, especially when we were in the middle. The rivers were extremely picturesque, with high mountains on either side, among which they wound their way in a snake-like fashion over a rocky bed, forming a series of cascades. We went that day 25 kil., and arrived at the tambo of Azupizu, which was in charge of a deserter from the French navy. He was an extraordinary character. He had forgotten French, and had neither learnt Spanish nor the local language of the Campas Indians.
A tribe of those Indians was to be found near there--very handsome people, the men solidly built and muscular, with intelligent but brutal faces, with the yellowish-brown skin and slanting eyes of the Malay races. The eyes showed a great discoloration in the upper part of the iris. They possessed straight hair, slightly inclined to curl at the end. The nose was flattened at the root. They wore a few ornaments of feathers on the head. Their clothing consisted of a loose gown not unlike a Roman toga. The women were good-looking when very young.
The Campas claimed to be the direct descendants of the Incas. There is no doubt that the Campas were practically the same tribe as the Antis, once a most powerful tribe which inhabited an extensive territory to the north and east of Cuzco. In fact, the eastern portion of the Inca country was once called Anti-Suya. The Campas, or Antis, were formerly ferocious. They are now quite tame, but still retain their cruel countenances, resembling closely those of Polynesians and Malays.
We left that place on January 20th in drenching rain. The river was much swollen, and formed a whirlpool of great magnitude just over some bad rapids. We crossed from mountain-side to mountain-side, some 400 ft. above the stream, in a sling car running along a wire rope. The car consisted of two planks suspended on four pieces of telegraph wire. As the sling had been badly constructed it did not run smoothly along the cable. I had an unpleasant experience--everybody had who used that conveyance--as I was going across from one side to the other of the stream, a distance of some 200 metres or more. The ropes which were used for pulling the car along got badly entangled when I had reached the middle of the passage. The Indians and the Frenchman pulled with violent jerks in order to disentangle them, and caused the car to swing and bump to such an extent that it was all I could do to hold on and not be flung out of it. Having been swung to and fro for the best part of an hour on that primitive arrangement, I was able to proceed on the other side of the stream. Fortunately we had taken the precaution of making the animals cross over the river the previous evening, before it was in flood, or else we should have been held up there for several days. Leaving the Azupizu river, we followed the river Kintoliani, which joined the Azupizu and formed with it a most formidable stream.
The trail was at a great height, some 600 ft. above the water. In two or three places where it had been cut into the rock it was most dangerous, as the rocks were slippery with the wet, so that the mules had great difficulty in keeping their feet. The vegetation was wonderful, with trees of enormous height and beautiful giant palms. Waterfalls over rocky walls were plentiful, while the effects of clouds were marvellous among those mountains--although my enthusiasm was damped a good deal that day by the torrential rain, which came down in bucketfuls upon us, and filtered through even my heavy waterproof coat.
The zigzag ascent was extremely heavy, the first part being over rocky ground, while the rest of that day's journey was along a swampy trail on which the mules stumbled and fell many times. One of my men had a narrow escape from being precipitated down the chasm. So bad, indeed, was the trail that we only went 15 kil., halting at the tambo of Pampas S. Nicolas.
On January 21st we made a long and tedious march, rising all the time among slippery rocks along precipices, or sinking in swampy mud on the narrow trail. Picturesque waterfalls of great height were visible in volcanic vents, some square, others crescent-shaped, on the face of the mountain. The torrents, swollen by the heavy rains, were difficult to cross, my mules on several occasions being nearly swept away by the foaming current. We sank in deep red slush and in deep holes filled with water, but continued all the time to ascend a gentle but continuous incline. We travelled that day from six o'clock in the morning until six o'clock in the evening, rain pouring down upon us all the time. We were simply smothered in mud from head to foot.
We found a large tambo at Camp 93, with a telephone and telegraph station. At those tambos it was always possible to obtain rice, chickens and eggs at reasonable prices, fixed by the Government. In many of the tambos were also rough wooden bedsteads, with a more or less comfortable mattress. I generally preferred to use my own camp-bed. As there were never more than one or two rooms in the tambo, you had to sleep in the same room with other people, unless you preferred to sleep outside, as I did.
For the privilege of sleeping at any tambo, in or out of doors, one paid the small sum of one shilling. A dinner or lunch seldom cost more than two shillings, and breakfast eightpence to one shilling. The food for the animals could be reckoned at one shilling for each mule, the price being higher at the Yessup end of the journey and getting gradually lower as one got nearer the capital.
Of course one could not call travelling over the Andes in any way luxurious. The tablecloths at the tambos showed all round the table the marks of the dirty lips of previous travellers, and plentiful stains of soup, coffee and tea. The illumination consisted usually of a candle placed in the mouth of a bottle, which was used as a candlestick.
I saw more Campas Indians there. They were singing songs strongly resembling Malay melodies, to the accompaniment of Spanish guitars. Other songs influenced by Spanish airs, but still delivered in a typically Malay fashion, were also given that evening. They interested me greatly.
On January 22nd we left Camp 93. I was struck everywhere at those tambos by the great honesty of the Peruvians. I was often touched by the extreme kindness of the people and their considerate manner--although perhaps it was more particularly striking to me after my experience of the brutal behaviour of the lower-class Brazilians. The gentle way of speaking, the more harmonious language--Spanish instead of Portuguese--and the charming civility of the people, made travelling, even under those unpleasant circumstances, quite agreeable.
It was cold, especially at night. Nearly all my instruments had been badly damaged in our many accidents in Brazil, and I was unable to replace them either in Pará or Manaos. Owing, therefore, to the lack of self-registering thermometers, I could not keep an accurate daily record of the maximum and minimum temperatures. After leaving Camp 93, we went over a really fearful trail, my mules being all the time chest-deep in mud. It was extremely hard work for the animals to get along. As is well known to any traveller, all animals of a caravan when on a narrow path step in the footprints of their predecessors, so that on that trail they had sunk a long series of deep holes in the soft clay, which were constantly being filled by water sliding from the mountain-side. In that particular part the mud had highly caustic qualities, which burnt the skin and caused irritation each time you were splashed. The muleteers who were walking had their feet badly burnt by it, one man suffering agony from his blistered feet.
Magnificent mountain scenery covered with luxuriant forest surrounded us as the trail wound its way along the high point on the top of the mountain range. We went only 21 kil. that day from Pampas, having occupied seven hours to cover the distance, owing to the difficulties of the march.
In the afternoon we were enveloped in dense fog which lasted the whole night, the cold being quite severe, and the more perceptible because of the humidity in the air. The trail here described a wide detour, which could have easily been avoided had another trail that went direct to New Bermudez been followed at the bottom of the valley. The journey by that lower trail could be accomplished in one day and a half. The elevation by hypsometrical apparatus of this camp (N.71) was 5,663 ft.
On January 23rd we descended rapidly through beautiful forest from Camp 71, where we had halted for the night, to a large tambo called Eneñas, in charge of an Italian. The place was situated in a beautiful valley intersected by a streamlet saturated with lime. It looked exactly like milk, and hurt your gums considerably when you drank it. The excellent mule I was riding had unfortunately hurt one of its legs while we were crossing a swollen torrent, where the mule and myself were nearly swept away in the foaming current. Riding on the lame animal, which was all the time stumbling and falling down on its knees, was unpleasant. In the narrow trail it was not possible to unload another animal and change the saddle, and it was out of the question for me to walk.
I arrived at the tambo with a ravenous appetite, but unfortunately nobody had telephoned from the previous tambo that I was coming, so that it was impossible to get lunch, and I had to wait two or three hours before I could get anything to eat at all. The men in charge of the various tambos were rather negligent in telephoning and making arrangements with the next tambo, as the kind of travellers they had on that trail was not of the highest type and could not always be relied upon for payment. The people in charge of the tambos were poor devils, half abrutis, to use a most appropriate French expression, by the life they had to lead in that forlorn country.
On January 24th we continued our journey over horrible deep mud-holes, which made the trail extremely dangerous. On that particular day we were travelling over sticky soil, so that when the mules trod in the deep holes they stuck with their hoofs and fell over, immediately struggling wildly to free themselves. One of my men was nearly thrown down a precipice that day, and all of us, as well as all the pack animals, had many unpleasant falls during that march. Swampy places like that were encountered for hundreds of metres at a time. In one place that day we had two kilometres of continuous swampy mud. In the afternoon I had a nasty fall, the mule rolling right on the top of me and nearly breaking my right leg. The animal in falling had sunk its head in the sticky mud, and was struggling madly to release itself. The animals were then marching chest-deep in mud. In my helpless condition I tried to get off when the animal fell, but sank up to my waist and stuck fast with my legs in the mud. When the mule rolled over, it knocked me down on the edge of the precipice, my leg remaining caught under the animal. Had not one of my muleteers been by my side at the moment and rushed to my rescue, I should have fared badly indeed.
We had a slippery descent after Tambo 33, where we had a lunch composed of putrid tinned salmon and "invisible" eggs--the latter dish being a speciality of that place. The tambo man insisted that I had eaten six eggs, whereas I had not even seen them except on the bill. He told me that I was wrong, showing me a napkin on which two yellow streaks were to be seen--though not left there by me, but by the lips of some traveller who had passed perhaps a month before.
We made a long march that day, having left at seven o'clock in the morning, and arriving at our halting-place at four o'clock in the afternoon.
The next day, January 25th, we had a trying march. Several land-slides had taken place, bringing down great patches of forest. Numberless trees had fallen over, making it difficult for the animals to be taken across. In one place all of them had to be unloaded, and they sank so deeply in the slush and soft earth that we had three or four hours' extremely hard work to cover a distance of about 50 m. The animals became so scared that they would not go on at all. The men who pushed and led them along that dangerous passage with a deep precipice on one side were in constant danger.
The rain, which had been torrential during the night, continued during the entire day, swelling the streams and making them most difficult to cross. In one stream my mule and I were swept away altogether. I had water right up to my waist while riding, and the mule showed only its head above the water. We were thrown with great force against some rocks, where, fortunately, my muleteers came to our help and got us out again.
The trail--about half a metre wide--wound its way up to a great height above the foaming river. There were beautiful ferns of immense height, some of which had finely ribbed, gigantic leaves. Graceful yellow flowers, or sometimes beautiful red ones, were to be seen on tall trees with white, clean stems. We passed a coffee plantation, owned by English people, near a charming settlement of whitewashed houses on the opposite side of the river. When we came to cross the Rio Las Palmas--heavily swollen--we were once more nearly swept away in riding across with water up to our chests. The baggage naturally suffered a good deal in those constant immersions. This was, unfortunately, the wrong season for crossing the Andes; but I could not help that, as I was anxious to get through, and could not wait for the fine weather to come.
Farther on we crossed the river Paucartambo near the Pueblo Pardo. We next followed the Rio Chanchamayo, which afterwards became the Rio Perene, along which extensive English farms had been established. We were now getting near to civilization. I felt that my work was entirely finished, as the country hereabouts was well known.
We came to the Colorado river, a tributary of the Chanchamayo, and passed S. Luiz de Shuaro, a charming little village of whitewashed houses. The scenery was beautiful on nearing La Merced. The river basin showed luxuriant grassy slopes and immense sugar plantations.
La Merced was situated on the left bank of the Rio Chanchamayo, formed by the meeting of the Rio Tulumayo and the Rio Tarma, which joined near the village of S. Ramon. It had two modest hotels and various commercial houses. In a way I was sorry to get to a town again, because in those places you had all the trumpery illusion of civilization without any of its real advantages. One met, however, with the greatest civility from everybody, and, indeed, with the greatest honesty. So that travelling in those regions was quite a pleasure.
To my amazement that evening a burly Italian came into the hotel. Who was he?--Garibaldi's grandson, the son of General Canzio and Garibaldi's daughter. He was interested in some mines in the district, and had lived there for some years trying to make a fortune.
What impressed one most in the settlements on the Andes were the great neatness and cleanliness of all the buildings, and the charming manners of all the people one met. Everybody, without exception, saluted you politely as you approached; everybody was anxious to be of assistance or offer you hospitality. There was, nevertheless, nothing of great interest in those high-placed villages.
On January 26th I went on in a drenching rain, having changed my animals at that place for another lot of excellent mules. The hire of animals was somewhat high, but after the prices one had to pay in Brazil, everything seemed, by comparison, dirt-cheap in Peru. I also said good-bye to the Peruvians who had accompanied me so far, and employed Indians to take charge of my animals.
From La Merced there was a trail from one to three metres wide, cut out in the solid rock and skirting all along the foaming river, which flowed in the opposite direction from that in which we were travelling. In several places narrow tunnels had been excavated in the rock, through which the trail proceeded. These tunnels were dangerous when you encountered caravans of pack animals coming through from the opposite direction. The animals often got jammed in the middle of the tunnel, tearing their loads to pieces in their attempts to disentangle themselves. Once I got jammed myself, and came out minus a patch of skin several inches long from my left shin and knee.
Between La Merced and S. Ramon, a distance of some 10 kil., one had to cross the shaky suspension bridges of La Herreria and S. Ramon. The oscillations of those bridges were so great that it was always a marvel to me that the animals and riders were not precipitated into the river below. The planks of the bridges were in many places so rotten that it was not uncommon for the animals to put their legs right through them. Only one animal at a time could go across, as the bridges were not strong enough to support more.
Farther on we arrived at two more bridges--the Puntayacu and the Rio Seco, one a suspension bridge, the other built of masonry. One met hundreds of Indians upon the trail, in costumes resembling those of the Calabrese of Italy. The men wore heavy woollen hand-knitted stockings up to their knees, or else over their trousers, white leggings left open behind as far down as the knee. Round felt hats were worn by the women, who were garbed in bright blue or red petticoats, very full and much pleated, but quite short. Red was the favourite colour for the shawl which they threw round the body and over the shoulders.
When we proceeded the next morning the heat in the low valley was stifling. The scenery continued to be beautiful, with magnificent waterfalls and torrents flowing down at a steep angle among rocks.
I stopped for the night at the charming little hotel of Huacapistana, situated at a lower level than the road in a most picturesque narrow valley, on the right bank of the Tarma River. The distance between La Merced and Huacapistana was about 35 kil.
Between Huacapistana and Tarma the track was excellent. We went through the Carpapata tunnel, 184 m. long--very dark and narrow, and extremely dangerous if you happened to meet pack animals in the middle. The scenery was enchanting and the vegetation wonderful until, 20 kil. farther, I entered, by a magnificent avenue of eucalyptus trees, the most picturesque town of the higher Andes, Tarma. The narrow, neat streets were paved with cobble-stones. All the houses were painted white, and had red-tiled roofs. The streets swarmed with quaintly attired Indians and tidily dressed Peruvians. There were many Italians and Spaniards in Tarma. Two or three hotels existed here--a capital one, actually lighted by electric light, being kept by a most honest Italian. The elevation of Tarma, taken by the hypsometrical apparatus, was 10,034 ft.
I left Tarma on January 29th, following a well-cultivated valley, fairly thickly inhabited. We were travelling over a good mule-track, swarming with Indians, donkeys, mules, and horses. The mud houses and land on either side were enclosed by hedges of cacti, or by walls. We were between barren mountains of a brownish colour, against which the quaint, brightly-coloured costumes of the many people on the road were thrown out in vivid contrast. Most of the houses were constructed of large mud bricks, sun-dried. The crops seemed to consist chiefly of Indian corn. As we went farther, among dark brown rocks and limestone, we came to grottoes and rock habitations. At some remote period there must have been a great upheaval in that country--at least, judging by the sedimentary foliated rock, the strata of which were from one to three feet thick, and which had originally been deposited horizontally by water. These accumulations or sediments now stood up at an angle of 45°. We were now in a region where llamas were plentiful--most delightful animals, with their pointed ears pricked up, their luxuriant coats, and stumpy curled tails.
We came to a steep ascent over a high pass, where the cold wind was fierce. On reaching the pass I found myself on a grassy plateau in which were to be seen two circles of stones by the side of each other.
The partition of the waters flowing into the River Mantaro and the River Tarma took place at the point called Ricran, not far from the high pass we had crossed. It was always advisable when taking the journey between Tarma and Oroya to start early in the morning, so as to be on that pass before noon. In the afternoon the wind was intensely cold and frequently accompanied by violent storms of hail and rain.
I arrived in the evening at Oroya, the distance from Tarma being 30 kil. 236 m. The journey between the two places could be accomplished on a good mule in five or six hours. Oroya was an important point for me, as it was there that I saw the first railway since leaving Araguary in Brazil nearly a year before.
Oroya is perhaps one of the highest railway stations in the world, its accurate elevation by boiling-point thermometers being 12,156 ft.
The town, like all termini of railway lines, was not an attractive place. There were two or three hotels, all extremely bad. One began to feel the effects of civilization in the dishonesty of the people.
Early the next morning, thanks to arrangements made by Mr. D. T. Lee, I was allowed to take the journey to Lima in a "gravity car," in the company of the engineer, Mr. Beverley R. Mayer, instead of by the usual train, which ran twice a week. Of course it was only possible to go by "gravity car" from the highest point of the railway, which is not at Oroya, but at the tunnel of Galera, 5,356 m. (17,572 ft.) above the sea-level as measured by the railway surveyors.
The scenery was magnificent on that railway. Having gone through the Galera tunnel, Mr. Mayer and I got on the small "gravity car," keeping all the time just in front of the train. It was quite an exciting journey, the incline being so great that we soon acquired a vertiginous speed--in fact, too much, because our brakes would not act any more. With the snow and rain the rails had become so slippery that we went sliding down at the most alarming pace. Nor did I feel particularly happy at having the train only a few hundred metres behind us. Whenever we got to a station, we had to get off quickly and get our car off the rails to give room to the incoming train. The cold was intense.
The geological formation of the Andes in that particular region was remarkable, and more remarkable still was the British engineering triumph of constructing a railway from the sea to so high an elevation. In one or two places there were iron bridges of great height and ingenious construction. You felt a curious sensation as you flew over those bridges on the tiny car, and you saw between the rails the chasm underneath you; nor did you feel extraordinarily comfortable when, hundreds of feet down, down below, at the bottom of one chasm, you saw a railway engine which had leapt the rails and lay upside down in the middle of a foaming torrent.
Naturally, in building a mountain railway of that type, a great many curves and zigzags were necessary, many of those curves taking place inside tunnels. Along the railway rivers have been switched off through tunnels within the mountain, and produced picturesque cascades where they came out again.
The geological surprises were continual. Next to mountains with perfectly horizontal strata you saw other mountains with strata in a vertical position, especially in the limestone formation. Farther down immense superposed terraces were to be noticed upon the mountain side, evidently made by the ancient dwellers of that country for the cultivation of their inhospitable land.
This interested me greatly. I had seen among the Igorrotes or head-hunters of the island of Luzon, in the Philippine Archipelago, that same method of irrigation, by collecting the water from a high point on the mountain side in order to irrigate consecutively the series of terraces. Not only was I struck by the fact of finding so unusual a method of cultivation at two points of the globe so far apart, but I was even more impressed by the wonderful resemblance in type between the local natives and the inhabitants of the northern island of the Philippines. Undoubtedly these people came from the same stock.
Where we stopped at the different stations there was always something interesting to observe--now the hundreds of llamas which had conveyed goods to the railway; at one place the numberless sacks of ore waiting to be taken to the coast; at another the tall active chimneys of the smelters, which suggested industry on a large scale. I took a number of photographs under difficulties on that journey down the Andes.
At 7.30 p.m. on January 30th, 1912, I arrived safely at Lima, a distance of 222 kil. from Oroya. The total distance from Iquitos to Lima over the Andes was 2,079 kil., which distance I had performed in the record time of one month, the time generally occupied by the usual travellers being from fifty to seventy days.
From Lima I proceeded early the next morning to Callao, the port for Lima, a few kilometres farther, where at La Punta I touched the Pacific Ocean, thus ending my trans-continental journey from Rio de Janeiro, with its zigzags and deviations, 22,000 kil. in length, or 13,750 miles.
I was already in better health when I reached Lima. The violent changes of climate from the hot valley of the Amazon to the snows of the Andes, and from there to the sea-coast, had had a beneficial effect upon me. The attack of beri-beri from which I had been suffering was gradually passing away, my right foot, by the time I reached Lima, having slowly got back almost to its normal size, although my toes were still atrophied. It is well known that there is no better cure for beri-beri than sea air.
Chapter XXVII
The Peruvian Corporation Railway--The Land of the Incas--Lake Titicaca--Bolivia--Chile--The Argentine--A Last Narrow Escape--Back in England
LIMA is a beautiful city, as everybody knows. Its wonderful churches, its clean streets, its commerce, the great charm of the people--indeed, the Peruvians are the most cultivated and polished people in South America, and the women the most beautiful--make it one of the most attractive cities I visited on that continent.
I was, nevertheless, anxious to return quickly to Europe. I had no strength left. The mental strain on that long journey had been so great that I had lost my memory altogether.
Owing to the great kindness of the British Minister, Mr. C. des Graz, and of Mr. Mockill, the chief of the Peruvian Corporation at Lima, arrangements were made for me to travel in luxurious comfort through the country of the Incas--so that, although terribly exhausted, I decided to take a further journey in the interior of Peru, Bolivia, and Chile.
I left Lima five days after my arrival, on February 5th, going by steamer to the port of Mollendo, where I arrived on February 7th. There I met the railway line of the Peruvian Corporation from the sea coast to Arequipa and Cuzco. A magnificent private car had been placed at my disposal by the Peruvian Corporation, in which I was able to make myself comfortable for the several days which the journey lasted. Not only so, but the Peruvian Corporation kindly looked after my welfare in a most thoughtful way during the whole time I travelled on their line, for which I am indeed extremely grateful, as the travelling in that country would have otherwise been less pleasant.
The railroad from Mollendo went along the coast among curious eroded rocks of great interest; then gradually left the sea among sand-dunes and mounds upon the wide beach.
As the railway began to get higher and higher upon the steep gradient the scenery became more and more beautiful. Presently we found ourselves overlooking a wonderful flat valley between two high hill ranges in lovely green patches, cut with geometrical precision, and well cultivated. Giant cacti of the candelabrum type were plentiful. Farther on we got upon an elevated plateau with a white surface of pumice-stone, followed by red volcanic sand--an immense stretch of country surrounded by low hills of grey tufa and red volcanic rock.
Beyond that we came to a most interesting region of sand-dunes of extraordinary shapes, where the under soil was of a brilliant red, while the sand accumulations were of a grey colour. Some of the dunes were crescent-shaped. They stood usually in sets or rows extending from north-west to south-east. Then there were high mounds, also of sand, and dunes of all kinds, some with a double crescent, or with the inside of the crescent much indented, others with multiple concave curves. The concavity of all those dunes was on the north-east side.
I had seen a similar formation of dunes in the Salt Desert of Persia; also in the south-western desert of Afghanistan and in the northern desert of Beluchistan; but I do not remember ever having seen such a perfect formation of dunes as that to be seen in this part of Peru.
Beyond that sandy zone we had before us a red plateau with fluted sides. Great mounds of blackened volcanic sand were quite frequent, the railway winding its way around immense basins formed by depressions in the land. Then we entered a beautiful green narrow valley along a streamlet intersecting the plateau.
From Mollendo the railway gradually rose to an elevation of 2,301 m. (7,549 ft.) at Arequipa, where I remained for the night.
Arequipa was an interesting city with its picturesque arcades, its magnificent church of Spanish architecture with marvellous ancient wood carvings, and its prettily-laid-out gardens. I visited the astronomical observatory of Harvard College, a few miles from the town, where excellent work is being done in star photography from that eminently suitable spot for the study of the sky. The observatory was situated at an elevation of 8,060 ft. It worked in conjunction with the Harvard observatory in North America. By having thus one station north and another south of the equator, the observations made by that institution included the stars in all parts of the sky from the North to the South Pole. A 24-inch Bruce photographic telescope, a 13-inch Boyden telescope, an 8-inch Bache telescope, and a 4-inch meridian photometer were the principal instruments used at the Arequipa station.
I left Arequipa on the morning of February 9th, going through country of volcanic tufa and red sand, with immense furrows quite devoid of vegetation. Occasionally we came upon great masses of boulders cast by some volcanic force upon the surface of tufa and sand. Then the railway gracefully climbed in great curves over a plateau nearly 14,000 ft. high, where tufts of grass could be seen, giving a greenish appearance to the landscape.
We travelled along that great table-land, occasionally seeing a herd of llamas stampede away at the approach of the train, now and then observing circular stone walls erected by shepherds as shelters. A gable-roofed hut was occasionally seen. Picturesque natives in their ponchos and red or yellow scarves gazed, astonished, at the train throbbing along slowly upon the steep gradient of that elevated barren country. The cold seemed intense after the tropical heat of Lima. It was snowing hard. In the daytime I generally travelled seated in front of the engine, in order to have a better view of the landscape. In the train everybody suffered from soroche or mountain-sickness, which attacked most people when brought up quickly by the railway from the sea to such high elevations. I was driven away from the front of the engine by the cold rain and sleet beating with great force into my face, and obscuring the landscape to such an extent that I could see nothing at all.
When it cleared up we were travelling in a region of marshes and pools in the lowest point of depressions, then along a magnificent lake with green and brown fantastically-shaped mountains and hills in the foreground, and a high snowy range in the background. The effects of light when the storm was raging over the lake, with its conical and semi-spherical islands dotting the water, were intensely picturesque.
After that the plateau became less interesting. We descended gradually some 400 m. (1,312 ft.) to the junction of Juliaca, 3,825 m. (12,550 ft.) above the sea level.
At that place the luxurious car which had taken me there had to be switched off from the Puno Line to the Cuzco Line.
I had dinner in the hotel, and again was impressed by the great honesty of the Peruvian people in the interior, and their considerate manners. It was somewhat curious to see the Indian waiter--most clumsy, dressed up in uncomfortable and ill-fitting European clothes--waiting on a medley of strange passengers, such as red-faced Spanish priests, tidy, smooth, oily-haired Peruvians, and talkative commercial travellers. But all--whether fat or lean, rich or poor, Indian or Peruvian--were the essence of politeness and thoughtfulness.
Being able to sleep in the luxurious car, where I had two good bedrooms, my own kitchen, and a sitting-room, I was indeed extremely comfortable.
I left again on February 10th over a great flat grassy tableland, with hills terraced up for cultivation. We passed an old church with a wonderful dome, and behind it snow-capped blue mountains.
The women wore peculiar hats with flapping edges in order to protect their faces from the wind. A black cloth was generally worn over the women's heads under the hat, while over their shoulders hung dark green or purple ponchos.
The Indians of that region showed remarkably strong Malay features.
The train steamed through the wide grassy valley, once crossing a fairly large stream. High snowy peaks loomed against the sky on our right, while we were travelling all the time at elevations varying from 3,531 m. (11,584 ft.) at Sicuani to 4,313 m. (14,150 ft.) at La Raya. The cold seemed intense. I got quite frozen sitting on the engine.
Quantities of llamas and sheep grazing were now to be seen on the land, foot-passengers and horsemen crossing the valley in all directions. At the stations large crowds of picturesque women squatted down selling pottery and fruit.
The farther we got into the interior the more picturesque the hats became. The women there wore hats with rectangular gold-braided brims, and with white, red or blue curtains at the sides. The men had pointed woollen caps with ear-flaps. The women were garbed in ample pleated skirts. Curiously enough, while the head and body were so well protected, most of them had bare legs and feet, the skirts reaching only just below the knee.
Near villages one saw neat patches of land turned, with trouble, into vegetable gardens. Stone enclosures were used by the natives as shelters for the animals during storms and to pen them up at night. The people themselves lived in stone huts.
The country reminded me forcibly of Tibet, and so, in a way, did the people--short and stumpy and smothered in clothes. I frequently noticed cairns of stones like the obos typical of Tibet and of the Himahlyas. There, too, as in Tibet, it seemed the fashion for passers-by to place a white stone on those cairns in order to bring good luck.
The men were curiously garbed in short, wide white woollen trouserettes, reaching just below the knees and split behind just over the calf. Under those they wore another pair of trousers, slightly longer. Their coats were short and tight, resembling Eton jackets. They wore wide and much embroidered belts, red and blue being their favourite colours.
An accident had happened to a bridge. It had collapsed, so that the trains could not proceed. Thanks to the great thoughtfulness of Mr. Mockill and his inspector of the line, Mr. Blaisdell, another private car, equally comfortable, had been sent down from Cuzco to the bridge. My baggage was transferred on men's backs to the opposite side of the stream. With the delay of only an hour or so I was able to proceed on another train to Cuzco, where I arrived that same evening.
The city of Cuzco is situated at an elevation of 11,062 ft. above the sea level. In its vicinity the most important remains of Inca civilization have been found. The city itself was most interesting. Its handsome Spanish cathedral had a façade of beautifully designed columns and a fine central doorway. The great bell in one of the towers contained a large quantity of gold in the bronze, giving wonderful resonance to its vibrating notes. A solid silver altar of great height was to be admired in the interior of the cathedral, while the chancel was of marvellously carved wood. So was a supplementary altar which had been stored away behind the silver one.
The principal square of Cuzco had recently been paved with cement, on which none of the natives could be induced to walk, as they were afraid of slipping, accustomed as they were to the roughest cobble-stone paving of their streets. Only the gentry of the city could be seen treading with great care on the polished pavement, and were looked upon with much admiration by the lower natives, who stared aghast from the porticoes around the square. In the centre of the square was a cheap terra-cotta statue of the Indian hero Atahualpa surmounting a fountain painted of a ghastly green. The gardens were nicely laid out with pretty lawns. Another beautiful church rose in the plaza, the doorway of which was also handsome, but not comparable in beauty with that of the cathedral. The stone carvings of its façade were nevertheless remarkable. There were arcades on three sides of the plaza, the houses being generally only one storey high above them. The buildings were painted light blue, pink, green, or bright yellow, the columns of beautifully cut stone being also covered with hideous paint to match.
Thanks to the kindness of the President of the Republic, Mr. B. B. Legujia, a telegram had been sent asking the Prefect of Cuzco to give me every possible assistance in visiting the Inca ruins in the neighbourhood. The Prefect, Mr. J. J. V. Cuñer, kindly placed at my disposal three excellent horses and an orderly.
It is seldom one can visit a place where the people have more primitive habits than in the city of Cuzco. The streets, so wonderfully picturesque, were not fit to walk upon. The people threw into them all that can be thrown out of the houses, which possess no sanitary arrangements of any kind. Much of the pleasure of looking at the magnificent Inca walls--constructed of great blocks of stone so well fitted that no cement was necessary to hold them together--was really lost through being absolutely stifled by the suffocating odour which was everywhere prevalent in Cuzco.
The photographs that are reproduced in the illustrations of this book will give an idea of the grandeur of the Inca works better than any description. As I intend to produce at a later date a special work on that country, I am unable here to go fully into the history of the marvellous civilization of that race.
A photograph will be seen in one of the illustrations showing the immensity of the three-walled fortress of Sacsayhuaman. Another photograph will show with what accuracy the Incas could carve stone--which, mind you, in those days must have been much softer than it is now, and not unlike the sandstone that is used in England for building purposes.
Many curious subterranean passages were to be found on the mountains near Cuzco, the entrances to which were among picturesque rocks. The Incas seemed to have a regular mania for carving steps and angular channels in rocks. Not far from the fortress could be found the place of recreation of the Incas--the Rodadeiro--over which the Incas tobogganed, perhaps sitting on hides. Thousands and thousands of people must have gone in for the sport, as the solid rock was deeply grooved by the friction of the persons who have slid on it.
The remains of ancient altars for the worship of the sun and an Inca throne, where the king of the Incas must have sat while battles were taking place, were indeed most interesting to examine.
More interesting than any other to me was the particular spot on the mountain side where a kind of throne existed carved out of a huge block of rock, and where a battle of the Incas against their enemies could be reconstructed. Mounds of ammunition, consisting of round stones as big as a lawn-tennis ball, had been accumulated above and near the throne. Just below that high spot I found scattered upon the mountain side quantities of ammunition which had evidently been thrown by the Incas at the attacking foes.
Farther on was the "round table" where the Incas had their feasts--a huge circular table of rock situated near a conical boulder of immense size.
Interesting fountains with carved figure-heads; an Inca bath of graceful lines; and, some kilometres beyond Cuzco, the marvellous ruins of Viraccocha at Tinta, where gigantic walls of a palace were to be seen standing, and ruins of other fortresses filled one with amazement.
On the mountain side near the town were the strange gateways of Choquechaca, which in their lines resembled ancient Egyptian buildings. Not far off were the blocks of rock to which the Incas fastened their prisoners by their legs, arms and heads, and exposed them to the ridicule of the populace.
Many were the wonderful things which had been found in digging near Cuzco; but most interesting of all to me were the deformed crania--some flattened to almost an incredible extent on the top, others elongated backward to an amazing degree, others still with the central part of the skull deeply depressed, so as to form two globular swellings at the sides. Others, again, had been squeezed so as to form an angular ridge longitudinally on the summit. One skull particularly interested me, which had a pronounced elongation backward, and a dent just above the forehead which must have been caused by tying the cranium while young and still in a soft condition. Most of the skulls were of gigantic size when compared with those of modern times. The lower part was under-developed. Many of them possessed magnificent teeth.
Several of the skulls had been trephined, evidently while the person was still alive, some of the perforations in the brain-case being circular in shape, others quadrangular--most of the trephinations having been made in the forehead, others on the top of the skull. I saw one skull with as many as eleven apertures thus made. The operation had evidently been performed by a very able surgeon, for the little cap of bone removed fitted beautifully into the opening that had been made.
The Incas were great architects. They had an absolute craving for carving rock. They made models of their fortresses and palaces in blocks of hard stone, some of these being of remarkable perfection in their detail.
The pottery, red earthen vessels with geometrical designs upon them, was most interesting, especially the large jars which must have been used for fermenting wine. Those jars of a typical shape must have rested on a pedestal of wood, as they ended in a point at the bottom, which prevented their standing up on a flat surface. Two handles were attached to the lower part of those jars, and also to the great bottles in which they kept wine.
The Incas used tumblers, enamelled in red and green, and of most graceful shape.
They were fond of ornamenting their bottles and vessels with representations of human heads, reproduced with considerable artistic fidelity. Other bottles represented strange gnawing faces, with expanded eyes and a fierce moustache.
Judging from the representations of figures on their jars, the people in those days wore their hair in little plaits round the head. Heads of llamas sculptured in stone or else modelled in earthenware were used as vessels.
The Incas made serviceable mortars for grinding grain, of polished hard rock, mostly of a circular shape, seldom more than two feet in diameter.
The matrimonial stone was interesting enough. It was a double vessel carved out of a solid stone, a perforation being made in the partition between the two vessels. It seems, when marriages were performed, that the Incas placed a red liquid in one vessel and some water in the other, the perforation in the central partition being stopped up until the ceremony took place, when the liquids were allowed to mingle in emblem of the union of the two lives. Curious, too, was the pipe-like arrangement, called the kenko, ornamented with a carved jaguar head, also used at their marriage ceremonies.
Their stone axes and other implements were of extraordinary interest--their rectangularly-shaped stone knives, the star- and cross-shaped heads for their war clubs, as well as the star-shaped weights which they used for offensive purposes, attached, perhaps, to a sling. Many were the weapons of offence made of stone which have been found near Cuzco, some of which were used by holding in the hand, others attached to sticks.
The Incas were fairly good sculptors, not only in stone but also in moulding human figures and animals in silver and gold. Llamas, deer, long-nosed human-faced idols were represented by them with fidelity of detail, although perhaps not so much accuracy in the general proportions. At a later date the Incas used metal implements, such as small rakes and chisels for smoothing rock. They made hair-pins and ear-rings, chiefly of a mixture of gold, silver, lead and copper.
I saw at Cuzco a stone arrangement which was used by the Incas for washing and milling gold. Many ornaments of silex, agate and emerald, and also of coral, which had evidently been brought there from the coast, have also been found near Cuzco.
The spoons and knives which the Incas used were generally made of gold, with representations of heads attached to them. The average length of these articles was from two to four inches.
I left the city on Friday, February 16th, going back the way I had come as far as the junction of Juliaca.
The Cuzco railway, to my mind, crosses the most beautiful and most interesting scenery of any railway I have ever seen. It is a pity that more English people do not travel by it. The great elevation makes people suffer from mountain-sickness, and that perhaps deters many travellers from attempting the journey. The railway has to contend with great natural difficulties--land-slides, which often stop traffic for days at a time, being frequent.
From Cuzco I went direct to Lake Titicaca, where more Inca ruins, such as the cylindrical towers of Sillistayni, existed at Puno. Lake Titicaca is a heavenly sheet of water, situated at an elevation by hypsometrical apparatus of 12,202 ft. With its magnificent background of snowy peaks, the lake looked indeed too impressive for words, as I steamed across it in the excellent steamer of the Peruvian Corporation.
Early in the morning of February 17th, having travelled the entire night in order to cross the lake from north to south, we arrived at Guaqui, the port for La Paz, the capital of Bolivia. Although I travelled in the most luxurious comfort, owing to the kindness of the Peruvian Corporation, the journey by rail and the going about examining the ruins at Cuzco had tired me considerably. My brain was so exhausted that it would really take in no more.
Worse luck, when I reached La Paz it was during carnival time, when it was impossible to go out of the hotel without being smothered in cornflour or chalk, and sprinkled with aniline dyed water. Even bottles of ink were emptied on one's head from the windows. So that, although I crossed Bolivia from one end to the other in its longest part, I was unable to do any further work. I tried to get down to the coast as quickly as possible in order to return home.
La Paz was a beautiful city, extremely neat, with bright red-tiled roofs and white buildings. It was situated in a deep hollow surrounded by a great barrier of mountains. So deep and sudden was the hollow that within a few metres of its upper edge one would never suppose a town to be at hand. Bolivia is a go-ahead country in which English people are greatly interested. We have in our Minister there, Mr. Gosling, a very able representative of British interests.
Bolivians have shown great enterprise in building railways in all directions in order properly to develop their enormously wealthy country. Many important lines are in construction; others are projected--of which, perhaps, the most interesting will be the one from Santa Cruz to Corumba on the Brazilian boundary.
The day will come when the port of Arica on the Pacific Ocean will be joined to Oruro, on the Antofagasta line, the well-known junction in Bolivia, and eventually to Santa Cruz. The present plan is to build a line from the already existing railway at Cochabamba to Porto Velarde on the Rio Grande (Rio Mamore), then to Santa Cruz. The Brazilians on their side will eventually connect São Paulo with Cuyaba and Corumba. It will then be possible to travel by rail right across the South American continent in its richest part.
There is also a project of connecting Santa Cruz with Embarcacion and Campo Santo, in the Argentine Republic, and eventually with the Trans-Andine Railway.
Other smaller lines projected are those between Potosí and Sucre, and one from the Chilian boundary at La Quiada to Tarija. That system of railways will greatly develop the entire southern portion of Bolivia. A small railway is also proposed in the most northern part of the Republic, between Riberalta on the River Madre de Dios and Guajara Merim on the Madeira-Mamore railway, a district of immense wealth for the production of rubber.
The exact elevation of La Paz by hypsometrical apparatus was 12,129 ft.
I left La Paz on February 21st, and travelled through flat, alluvial, uninteresting country--only a huge flock of llamas or vicuñas enlivening the landscape here and there, or a group of Indians in their picturesque costumes. The women, with their green, violet or red shawls and much-pleated short skirts, generally blue, afforded particularly gay patches of colour.
I saw a beautiful effect of mirage near the lake in the vicinity of Oruro, as I was on the railway to Antofagasta. We were going through flat country most of the time. It had all the appearance of having once been a lake bottom. Perhaps that great Titicaca Lake formerly extended as far south as Lake Poopo, which is connected with Lake Titicaca by the River Desaguadero. In fact, if I am not far wrong, the two lakes formed part, in days gone by, of one single immense lake. The mountains on our right as we went southwards towards Oruro showed evidence that the level of the then united lakes must have reached, in days gone by, some 150 ft. higher than the plain on which we were travelling. The low undulations on our left had evidently been formed under water in the lake bottom.
The junction of Oruro, from which the Cochabamba railway branches, was quite a large place, of 8,000 inhabitants, but with no particularly striking buildings. Tin and silver mining was carried on in the surrounding mountains.
From Oruro I continued the journey to Antofagasta via Uyuni. Immense deposits of borax were to be seen all along the line from the station of Ulaca; then we came to a most beautiful sight--the volcano of Ollagüe, 12,123 ft. above the sea level. It looked like a giant dome, snow-capped, and smoking on its southern side. Its slopes were fairly regular, and of most brilliant colouring, red and blue. Near the volcano were mounds of mud and shattered rock. Ollagüe stood on the boundary between Bolivia and Chile.
After passing San Martin, the first station on the Chilian side, the railway skirted the bed of an ancient lake, an immense circular flat stretch with deposits of sand and borax, in which could be seen occasional pools of stagnant water. On the west side stood a high three-peaked mountain covered with snow, while at the southern end of that plain was a charming lakelet. We had no sooner left this beautiful view than we had before us to the south-west an immense conical mountain, flat-topped. It looked just like the well-known Fujiyama of Japan, only more regular in its sloping lines.
We passed the works of a Borax Company, which were between the stations of Sebollar and Ascotan. There was to be seen another immense lake of borax, some 40 kil. (24 miles) long.
I arrived that evening at Antofagasta, and was fortunate enough to get on board one of the Pacific Mail Line steamers the next morning on my way to Valparaiso. We were now in the height of civilization again--very hot, very uncomfortable, very ambitious, very dirty, the hotels abominable. Had it not been for the kindness of friends I should have fared badly indeed in Valparaiso, for the place was invaded by a swarm of American tourists, who had just landed from an excursion steamer and rendered the place unbearable.
From Valparaiso, as soon as it was possible to obtain accommodation, I travelled across the Andes and as far as Buenos Aires by the Trans-Andine railway. The scenery on this line was most disappointing to any one who has seen the Andes in their real grandeur farther north; but for the average traveller the journey may prove interesting enough, although hot, dull, dusty, and not particularly comfortable.
While I was travelling on the railway between Mendoza and Buenos Aires there was a serious strike of railway employés. The railway had been attacked at many different points. Amateur engineers and attendants ran the trains. We were only two hours from Buenos Aires. The heat and dust were intense as we crossed the great pampas. The shaking of the train had tired me to such an extent that I placed a pillow on the ledge of the open window, and was fast asleep with my head half outside the carriage, when I woke up startled by the sound of an explosion. I found myself covered with quantities of débris of rock. A huge stone, as big as a man's head or bigger, had been thrown with great force at the passing train by the strikers, and had hit the side of my window only about three inches above my head, smashing the woodwork and tearing off the metal frame of the window. Had it struck a little lower it would have certainly ended my journey for good.
As it was I arrived in Buenos Aires safely. A few days later I was on my way to Rio de Janeiro, by the excellent steamer Aragon. Shortly after, by the equally good vessel Araguaya, of the Royal Mail Steamship Company, I returned to England, where I arrived in broken health on April 20th, 1912. It was a relief to me to land at Southampton, with all my notes, the eight hundred photographs I had taken, and the maps which I had made of the regions traversed.
Appendix
SOME OF THE PRINCIPAL PLANTS OF BRAZIL
(C.) = Colouring and Tanning. (C.W.) = Woods good for Construction. (M.) = Medicinal. (F.) = Fibrous. (R.) = Resinous. (P.) = Palms. (L.) = Lactiferous. (O.) = Oliferous. (S.) = Starchy. (T.) = Tanning.
Alocasia macrorhiza Schott Inhame (S.) Anchietea salutaris St. Hil. Cipo suma (M.) Andira spectabilis Sald. Angelim Pedra (C.W.) Andira vermifuga Angelim amargoso (C.W.) Apuleia præcox M. Grapiapunha (F.) Arachis hypogoea L. Amendoim (O.) Araucaria Brasiliana Lamb Pinho do Paraná (C.W.) Aristoiochia (various kinds) Jarrinha (M.) Asclepia curassavica L. Official da sala (M.) Aspidosperma dasycarpon A.D.C. Peroba rosa (C.W.) " eburneum Fr. All. Pequia marfim " " leucomelum Waring. Peroba parda " " macrocarpum M. Guatambú " " polyneuron M. Arg. Peroba amarella " " sessiliflorum Fr. All. Pequia amarello " " sp. Peroba revessa " Astronium fraxinifolium Schott Gonçalo Alves " Attalea funifera M. Piassava (P.) Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K. Castanha do Pará (O.) Bignoniaceas (various kinds) Caroba (M.) Bixa orellana L. Urucú (C.) Boerhavia hirsuta Willd. Herva-tostão (M.) Bromelia (various kinds) Caragoatá (F.) (S.) Brunfelsia Hopeana Benth. Manacá (M.) Byrsonima (various kinds) Muricy (C.) Cabralea cangerana Sald. Cangerana (C.W.) Cæsalpinia echinata Lam. Pao Brasil " Cæsalpinia ferrea M. Pao Ferro (C.W.) Calophyllum brasiliense C. Guanandy (R.) Capaifera (various kinds) Copahyba (O.) Cassia (two kinds) Canafistula (F.) Cayaponia (various kinds) Cayapó (M.) Cecropia (various kinds) Embauba (F.) Cedrera fissilis Vell. Cedro vermelho (C.W.) Centrolobium robustum M. Arariba amarello " " tomentosum Benth. " rosa " Chiococca anguifuga M. Cipo cruz (M.) Chrysophyllum glyciphloeum Cazar Buranhen (C.W.) " " " Monesia (M.) Cissampelos (various kinds) Abútua (M.) Ciusta criuva Cambess Manguerana (F.) Cocos nucifera L. Coqueiro Bahia (P.) Coffea arabica L. Caféeiro Copaifera guaianensis Desf. Copahyba (C.W) Copernicia cerifera M. Carnahubeira (C.W.) (P.) Cordia alliodora Cham. Louro (C.W.) Couratari estrellensis Raddi Jequitiba Vermelho (C.W.) Coutarea hexandra Schum Quina-quina (M.) Cuscuta (various kinds) Cipo chumbo (M.) Dalbergia nigra Fr. All. Jacarandá cabiuna (C.W.) Dioscoreas batatas D.C. Cará (S.) Drimys granatensis Mutis Casca d'anta (M.) Echyrosperum Balthazarii Fr. All. Vinhatico amarello (C.W.) Eloeis guineensis L. Dendé (P.) Erythrina corallodendron L. Mulungú (M.) Esenbeckia febrifuga M. Laran do Matto (M.) " leiocarpa Guarantan (C.W.) Eugenia durissima Ubatinga (C.W.) Euterpe edulis M. Palmito (P.) " oleracea L. Assahy (P.) Favillea deltoidea Cogu Fava de S. Ignacio (O.) Ficus (various species) Figueiras (L.) Genipa Americana L. Genipapo (C.) Gesnera alagophylla M. Batata do campo (M.) Gossipum (various kinds) Algodoeiro Harncornia speciosa M. Mangabeira (L.) Hedychium coron-koen Lyrio do brejo (S.) Hymencæa courbaril L. Jatahy (C.W.) (R.) Ilex paraguayensis St. Hil. Maté (M.) Inga edulis M. Inga-assú (C.W.) Ipomoea jalapa Pursh. Jalapa (M.) Jatropha curcas L. Pinhão de purga (O.) Johannesia princeps Vell. Anda-assú (O.) Lafoensia (various kinds) Pacuri (C.) Laguncularia rac. Gaertu. Mangue branco (F.) Landolphia (various kinds) Pacouri (L.) Lecythis grandiflora Berg. Sapucaia commun (C.W.) " ollaria Piso " -assú " " ovata Cambess " mirim " Lisianthus pendulus M. Genciana Brazil (M.) Machærium Alemanni Benth. Jacarandá violeta (C.W.) " incorruptibile Fr. All. " rosa " " leucopterum Vog. " tan " Maclura (two kinds) Tajuba (C.) " affinis Mig. " (C.W.) Malvaceas (various kinds) Guaxima (F.) Manicaria saccifera G. Ubussú (P.) Manihot (two kinds) Mandioca (S.) " Maniçoba (L.) Mauritia vinifera M. Burity (P.) Melanoxylon brauna Schott Guarauna (C.W.) Mespilodaphne sassafras Meissn. Canella sassafraz (C.W.) Mikania (various kinds) Guaco (M.) Mimusops (various kinds) Massaranduba (L.) " elata Er. All. " Grande (C.W.) Moldenhauera floribunda Schrad Grossahy azeite (C.W.) Moquilea tomentosa Benth. Oity " Musa (various kinds) Bananeira Myracroduon urundeuva Fr. All. Urindueva (C.W.) Myristica (two kinds) Bucu huba (O.) Myrocarpus erythroxylon Fr. All. Oleo vermelho (C.W.) " frondosus " pardo (C.W.) Myrsine and Rapanea (various kinds) Copororoca (F.) Nectandra amara Meissn. Canella parda (C.W.) " mollis Meissn. " preta " " myriantha Meissn. " capitão-mor " Nicotina tabacum L. (various kinds) Fumo Operculina convolvulus M. Batata de purga (M.) Oreodaphne Hookeriana Meissn. Itauba preta (C.W.) Paullinia sorbilis M. Guaraná (M.) Pilocarpus pinnatifolius Jaborandy (M.) Piper umbellatum L. Pariparoba (M.) Piptadenia rigida Benth Angico (C.W.) (F.) Protium (various kinds) Almecega (R.) Psidium acutangulum M. Araça pyranga (C.W.) Psychotria ipec. M.A. Poaya legitima (M.) Pterodon pubëscens Faveiro (C.W.) Renealmia occident. P. and E. Capitiú (M.) Rhizophora Mangle L. Mangue verm. (F.) Rhopala Gardnerii Meissn. Carvalho Vermelho (C.W.) Ricinus communis L. Mamoneira (O.) Saccharum officin. L. (various kinds) Canna de assucar Sanserieria (two kinds) Espada (F.) Schinus terebenthifolius Raddi Aroeira (C.W.) (R.) Silvia navalium Fr. All. Tapinhoã (C.W.) Siphonia elastica (Hevea) (various kinds) Seringueira (L.) Smilax (various kinds) Japecanga (M.) Solanum (various kinds) Jurubeba (M.) Strychnos macroacanthos P. Quassia (M.) Stryphnodendron barbatimão M. Barbatimão (C.W.) (T.) Styracaceas (various kinds) Estoraqueiro (R.) Syphonia globulifera L.F. Anany (R.) Tecoma araliacea P.D.C. Ipé una (C.W.) " pedicellata Bur. and K. Sch. Ipé tabaco " Terminalia acuminata Fr. All. Guarajuba " Theobroma cacao L. Cacaoeiro Tournefortia (various kinds) Herva de Lagarto (M.) Vanilla (three kinds) Baunilha (M.) Vitex Montevidensis Cham. Taruman (C.W.) Vouacapoua Americana Aubl. Acapú (C.W.) Xanthosoma sagit. Schott Tayoba (S.) Xylopia (various kinds) Embira (F.)
MAMMALS
Atele paniscus Coatá Balsena australis Baleia austral Bradypus tridactylus Preguiça Callithrix scicuria Saymiri do Pará Canis brasiliensis Aguarachaim " jubatus Guará Cavia cobaya Cobaya Cebus appella Macaco chorão Cercolabos prehensilis Coandú Cervus dama Gamo " elaphus Veado " rufus Guazú-Pita Coeelogenys pacca Pacca Dasyprocta aguti Cotia Dasypus novemcinctus Tatú de cauda comprida Delphinus amazonicus Golfinho Dicotyles labiatus Porco queixada branco " torquatus Caetitú canella ruiva Didelphis azuræ Gambà " marsupialis Philandra Felis concolor Sussuarana " onça Jaguar " pardalis Jaguatirica Gallictis barbara Irara Hapale jacchus Ouistití or mico Hydrochoerus capibara Capivara Lepus brasiliensis Coelho Lutra brasiliensis Ariranha Manatus australis Peixe-boi do Pará Mephitis suffocans Jacarecaguá Myrmecophaga jutaba Tamanduá bandeira Nasua socialis Caotí de bando " solitaria " " mundeo Phyllostoma spectrum Vampiro Procyon concrivorus Guaxinim Sciurus æstuans Caxinguelê Tapirus americanus Anta Vespertilio auritus Morcego orelhudo " murinus " commun
BIRDS
Ajaja Colhereiro Alauda arvensis Cotovia Amazona amazonica Curiça Amazona brasiliensis Papagaio Ampelis atropurpurea Cotinga vermelha do Pará Anumbius anumbi Cochicho Ara ararauna Arara azul " macao " piranga " nobilis Maracanã Aramides saracura Saracura Aramus scolopaceus Carão Ardea Socoi João Grande Ateleodacius speciosa Sahi Belonopterus cayannensis Quero-quero Brotogeris tirica Periquito Cacicus cela Checheo Cairina moschata Pato do matto Calospiza pretiosa Sahira Calospiza toraxica Sahira verde Caprimulgus cericeocaudalus Curiango Cathartes atratus Urubú " Papa " roi Ceryle amazona Martim pescador Charadrius dominicus Tarambola Chasmorhychus nudicolis Araponga Chauna cristata Tachan Chiromachæris gutturosus Corrupião Colaptes campestris Pica-pão Columba domestica Pombo domestico " turtur Rõla Conurus jendaya Nandaya Corvus corax Corvo Crax alector Hocco do Pará " pinima Mutum Creciscus exilis Frango d'agua verde Crypturus japura Macucan " notivagus Jahó " rufescens Tinamú ruivo " scolopax Juó " soui Turury " variegatus Inhambú anhanga Dacnis cayana Sahi azul Dendrocygna fulva Marreca peba " viduata Irerê Donacubius articapillus Japacamin Eudocimus ruber Guará Euphonia aurea Gaturamo amarello Eurypyga helias Pavão do Pará Falco destructor Harpya " haliætus Aguia " sparverius Falcão Fringilla carduelis Pintasilgo Fulica armillata Carqueja Furnarius rufus João de barro Gallinago delicata Narceja " gigantea Gallinhola Grotophaga ani Anú Glaucidium brasilianum Caburé Heterospizias meridionalis Gavião caboclo Hycter americanus Can-can Ibis rubra Ibis escarlate Jacamaralcyon tridactyla Beija flor bicudo Jonornis martinica Frango d'agua azul Lauru macubipennis Gaivota Leptotila rufaxilla Juruty Loxia cardinalis Cardeal Meleagris gallopavo Perú Microdactylus cristatus Seriema Minus lividus Sabiá da praia Milvago Chimachim Caracará " chimango Chimango Molothrus bonariensis Vira-bosta Molybdophanes coerules Maçarico real Morinella interpres Batuira Mucivora tyrannus Tesoura Myopsitta monachus Catorrita Myothera rex Myothera real Nomomyx dominicus Can-can Nothura maculosa Codorna Nyctidromus albicolis derbyanus Bacuraú Odontophorus capueira Urú Opisthocomus cristatus Cigana Oriolus brasiliensis Sapú Oryzoborus angolensis Avinhado " crassirostris Bicudo Ostinops decumanus Yapú Otalis katraca Aracuan Parra jacana Jacaná Pavo cristatus Pavão Penelope cristata Jacú Phasianus colchicus Faisão Piaya cayana Alma de gato Picus Martius Picanço negro Pionus menstruns Maitaca Pipra strigilata Manequim variegado Piroderus scutatus Pavó Pisorhin choliba Coruja Pitherodius pileatus Garça real Podiceps americanus Mergulhão Polyborus tharus Carancho Psittacus passerinus Tuim Psophius crepitans Agami Rhamphastos discolorus Tucano Rhea americana Avestruz, Ema Rupicola Gallo do Pará Siconea mycteria Jaburú Stephanophorus leucocephalus Azulão Sterna hirundinacea Trinta reis Sula leucogastra Mergulhão Syrigma sibilatrix Socó assobiador Tanagra citrinella Tanagra de cabeça amarella Tantalus americanus Tuyuyu Tinamus tao Macuco Triclaria cyanogaster Sabia-cica Turdus rufiventris Sabia larangeira Volatinia jacarini Serrador Xanthormis pyrrhopterus Encontro
FISH
Acanthurus bahianus Acanthuro Bahiano Caranx pisquelus Solteira Chromis acara Acará Cichla brasiliensis Nhacundá Coryphoena Dourado Curimatus laticeps Curimatá Cybium regale Sororóca Cymnotus electricus Poraqué Eugraulis Brossnü Anchova " encrausicholus Sardinha Leporinus Piaú Macrodon trahira Trahira Merlangus vulgaris Pescada Muroena anguilla Enguia dos rios Petromyzom marinum Lampreia do mar Platystoma Lima Surubim Primelodé Pirinambú Pirinambú Prochilodus argenteus Pacú Rhinobates batis Raia lisa Scomber scombrus Cavalla Serrasalmo piranha Piranha Silurus bagrus Bagre Solea vulgaris Linguado Squalus carcharias Tuburão Tristis antiquorum Espadarte Vastres gigas Pirarucú
REPTILES
CROCODILES AND LIZARDS
Caiman fissipes Jacaré Enyalius bilimeatus Camaleão listrado Teus monitor Teyú
SNAKES.
Boa constrictor Giboia constrigente Bothrops indolens Jararaca preguiçosa Ciclagras gigas Boipevaussú Coluber poecilostoma Caninana Crotalus durissus Cobra de cascavel commun " horridus " " " hor. " mutus Sururucú " terrificus Boicininga, Cascavel Drimobius bifossatus Cobra nova Elaps corallinus Boi coral " " Cobra coral " frontalis Boi coral Erythrolamprus æsculapii Cobra coral Eunectes murinus Sucuriú Helicops modestus Herpetodryas carinatus " sexcarinatus Copra-cipó Hyla faber Pereréca ferreiro Lachesis alternatus Urutú, cotiara, cruzeiro, etc. " atrox Jararaca, jararacucu " bilineatus Surucucú patioba " castelnaudi " itapetingæ Cotiarinha, boipeva, furta-côr " jararacucu Jararacucu, surucuçú, tapête " lanceolatus Jararaca, jararacucu " Lansbergii " mutus Sururucú, surucutinga " neuwiedii Urutú, jaraca do rabo branco Liophis almadensis Jararaquinha do campo " poecilogyrus Oxirhopus trigeminus Cobra coral, boi coral Philodryas serra Pipa curcurucú Entanha Phrynonax sulphureus Canninana Radinoea Merremii Cobra d'agua " undulata Rhachidelus Brazili Mussurana Thamnodynastes nattereri Xenedon merremii Boipeva
TORTOISES
Chelys fimbriata Mata-matá Emys amazonica Jurara-assú " tracaxa Tracajá Testudo tabulata Jabuti
VOCABULARIES
BORORO--APIACAR--MUNDURUCU--CAMPAS OR ANTIS
----------------+----------------+-----------------+------------+---------------- ENGLISH. | BORORO. | APIACAR. |MUNDURUCU. |CAMPAS OR ANTIS. ----------------+----------------+-----------------+------------+---------------- Anger | | | |nokatzmatahtzeh Angry | | |sapecoreh | Ant | | | |cachpigache Anta (Tapir) | | |biuh | Ariranha | | |auareh | Arm | | |ueiba |noshempa Arm (1st pers.) |ikkanna |zizuhbáh | | " (2nd " ) |akkanna | | | " (3rd " ) |kanna | | | " (elbow to | | | | shoulder) | |zizubah puha | | " (elbow to | | | | wrist) |ittaddagara |zizubah ziahppura| | (1st pers.) | | | | " (2nd " ) |akkeddagan | | | " (3rd " ) |akkagara | | | Armlet (ribbon) |canagadje geo |tahttùh ahsa | | | |(metal bracelet) | | | |zih pahürahna | | | |(fibre bracelet) | | Arrow | | | |tchohkopi Arrow-head |tugh otto |uübaffah | | Arrow feathers |attahga |uübappah | | Arrows |tuhga |uüba |ubipah | Ashes |djoroguddo |tahnimbuga |kaburi | | |tanimbo | | Attack (to) |bakkuredda |ahre mohmmahíh | | Aureole of | | | | feathers |parikko |ahkahntarah | | Axe | | |uah |
Bad | | | |kahmáhri Bag | | | |nottaratti Bands (ankle) |burere paro |tah pakkuhrah | | |gagadje geo | | | Bands (knee) |buregadje geo |tah pakkuhrah | | Barter (to) | |ahmazohppuhru | | Baskets (for | | | | bones of | | | | deceased) |koddo |mbuhah | | Beans | | |adianrap |macha | | | | Beard |nogua buh |tennovohava |erapirap |noshpatonna Beautiful | | |rip | Bees | | |eit | Belly |butto | |euk |nomucha Belt (for |coggu |mahté pikku | | women) | | ahsa | | Belt | | | |nuata quero Big |kurireo |huh or hun |berehiubuh |niroikki Bird |kiyeggeh |ühráh |uassehm |tzmehdi Black | | |inucat |potztaghi | | | |takarontz Blind |yoko bokkua |dai haï | | Blood | |ærui | |irantz Blue | | |ibitacobush |tahmaroli Born (to be) |curi butto |ohíh | | Bow |baiga |ühwürrappara |irarek |piamen " (1st pers.) |inaiga | | | " (2nd " ) |anaiga | | | " (3rd " ) |baiga | | | Bow-string |baighikko |übühra | | | | pahama | | Boy |méhdrogo | | | " (plural) |neh ghe |azzih van | | | kogureh | vohsáh | | Bracelet | | | |marentz Break (to) |rettegaddo, |ahmoppéhn | | | tuo | | | Breathe |akke |ippottuh hém | | Brother | | |uagnuh |yegue " eldest |ihmanna |zikkuhbuhra |uamuh | " (1st pers.) | | | | " (2nd " ) |ahmanna | | | " (3rd " ) |uhmanna | | | " (general) |tchemanna | | | " (1st p. p.) |pahmanna | | | " (2nd " ) |tahmanna | | | " (3rd " ) |ettuhmanna | | | " younger | |zihrukkiera |ocutoh | " (1st pers.) |ihvieh | | | " (2nd " ) |ahvieh | | | " (3rd " ) |uhvieh | | | " (general) |tchevieh | | | " (1st p. p.) |pahvieh | | | " (2nd " ) |tahvieh | | | " (3rd " ) |ettuvieh | | | Butterfly | | |orebereb |kittandaro
Canoe |ikka |ühara | |pitotzu Caress (to) |kera amudda |uahvaippiáhr | | | appo | | | Charcoal |djoradde |tattah pühn | | Chest (man's) |immorora |zipassiah |uei cameah |notto piné (1st pers) | | | | " (2nd " ) |ammorore | | | " (3rd " ) |morora | | | " (woman's ) |immokkuro |izi kahma |uei came |ciuccioni |ammokkuro | | | |mokkuro | | | Child | | | |entzih Chin (1st pers.)|inogura |zirenuvah |hueniepaeh | " (2nd " )|akogura | | | " (3rd " )|okkura | | | Cloak (worn by | | | |kittahreutz Campas) | | | | Cloud | | |crehreate | Clouds |boettugo |ivagon | |menkori Cold |biakko |irhossahn | | Comet |cujedje kigareu | | | Courage |paguddah bokua |ihmandarahih | | Crocodile | | |abatchiri | Cry |araguddu |oh zaïyóh | |niraatcha
Dance |erehru |ahniuaréh | | Dark |boetcho |puhtunhaïba | |stiniri taki Daughter | | |araichih |nessintcho Day |meriji |koeïn | | Dead | | |abeh | Deaf |bia bokkua |diahppuhai | | Deer | | |arapisehm | Design (to |tugo |ohkuazzihat | | ornament) | | | | Die (to) |bi |ahmonnoh | | Dog |arigao |ahwaráh |yacurité |otzitii Drink (to) |kuddo |uhükkuhr | |nerachi nerativo | | | | riratzi Drunk | | |icanuh |noshinghitatcha Dumb |battaru bokkua |nogni enghih | |
Ears | |zinambí |naeinebui |noyembitta " (1st pers.) |iviyah | | | " (2nd " ) |aviyah | | | " (3rd " ) |biyah | | | Earth |motto |wuhra | | Earthquake |mottumagaddo | | | Eat |ko |animaüvuttáh |inenetieh |noatcha, | | | com combih | Egg | | |tupissa | Enemy | |zih ruhwahsahra | | Eyebrows | |zirapezavah | |notta makku " (1st pers.) |iyerera | | | " (2nd " ) |aerira | | | " (3rd " ) |djerira | | | Eyelashes | | | |noshumpigokki Eyes | | | | " (1st pers.) |yokko |ziarakkuara | | lokki " (2nd " ) |aekko | | | " (3rd " ) |dyokko | | |
Fat |kavaddo |hih haï | |uannanowata Father |pao |zihruwa |utahbah |ahppah " (1st pers.) |iyuohka | | | " (2nd " ) |ao | | | " (3rd " ) |uho | | | " (plur., our) |tcheo | | | " (your) |tao | | | " (their) |ettuoh | | | Feathers | | | | " (of wings) |ikkoddo |ürapeppoh | | " (of tail) |ayaga |mehruazah | | Fight | | | |nogempi Find (to) |jordure gí |uèppiahr | | Finger or thumb |ikkera kurireo |ziffah | |notta pakki Finger (first) |boya gaisso | | | " (second) |boya taddao |ziffah mottehra | | " (third) |mekkijio |ziffah inha | | " (small) |biagareo |ziffah inha | | Fire |djoro |tahttáh |eraitcha |pah mahri Fish |kahre |pihráh |ashiman |gna denga | | | |aite shumma Five | | |brancogeh | Fling arrows | | | | with a bow |kiddogoddu |oh üvahn | | Fly (to) |koddu |ahvevéh | |haratzu Foot | |zihppuha |ibuih |numaronca | | | | nocunta noetzi " (1st pers.) |iyure | | | " (2nd " ) |aure | | | " (3rd " ) |bure | | | " (sole of) | | | |noetzi or | | | | nuitche Forehead | | | |nohpanka | | | |nopanka Forest |ittura |kahueh | | | |kauru khuh | | " (thick) |iguro kurireo | | | Four | | |ibaribrip | Fowl | | | |ataripa Friend | | |ubeshi | Fright |paguddah |ohkkriheéh | |nottaruatzo
Give (to) | makko | ahmandáh | | (I give him) | makkai | | | Girl | ahredrogo | ahwah vohsáh | | " (plural) | naguareh | | | | kogureh | | | God | | | Tuhpane | (Sun) pahua Good | | | tchipat | kahméhta Good afternoon | | ené mahrukka | | " day | | ené cohéma | | " night | | nehppi tuhna | | | | kattuh | | Give me water | | | | bina ina Gourds | bappo | | | (rattling | | | | gourds used | | | | by Bororos) | | | | Grandfather | | zihra magna | | " (1st pers.)| yeddaga | | | " (2nd " )| aeddoga | | | " (3rd " )| iyeddoga | | | Grandmother | | zihza ruza | | " (1st pers.) | mugapega | | | " " | imaruga | | | " (2nd " )| atcharuga | | | " (3rd " )| itcharuga | | | Grass | | | | tuarish Green | | | | natchari Guayaba (fruit) | | | | comassique Gums of teeth | | | | nohtapu Gun | | | | natziarih
Hair | | ziava | kahp | noeshi " (1st pers.)| ittao | | | nuesse " (2nd " )| akkao | | | " (3rd " )| ao | | | Hand | | zippoa | ibuih | nakku " (1st pers.)| ikkera | | | " (2nd " )| akkera | | | " (3rd " )| ijera | | | Happy | jakkare | horrüm | | Hatred | okki | naimïa roi | | Head | | ziakkan | | noppolo " (1st pers.)| ittaura | | | " (2nd " )| akkaura | | | " (3rd " )| aura | | | Head band | | | | nahmattery (worn by Campas)| | | | Hear (to) | | | | nokkie | | | | makimpi Hearing | merudduo | ziahppuh[)a]h | | Heart | | | |nasangani Heat | |heai | | Heel | | | |tsungueche Hippopotamus |aidje | | | Honey | | |eit attuh | Hunt (to) | | |itieh urepp |nomarma wai Husband |ohreddo |zihméhna | | tazu | |acuimibaeh | |nueme " (plural) |tcheddoreddo | | | |pagoreddo | | | |ettohreddo | | | Hut | | |anioca |mengotcha | | | |pangotzu
I do not want | | | |erocaticondaca, | | | |fenotchiro | | | | eroka I want you | | | |noni chempe | | | | naka Ill |cogoddu |ikkaruhara | |nohmahrtzi Illness |jorubbu |zihkkáh ruhara | | Ill-treat (to) |utchebai, |huàuàr | | |erugoddo kigoddo| | | Indian corn | | | |sagre ssengue | | | |famadole " Infuriated |kurigoddo |zih manarahíh | | (to be) | | | | Iron | | | |kirieh tonghi Island | | |tiahueruh |
Jump |karetta |appóll | |nuhme atcha
Kill (to) |bitto |ahzukkah | |noautziri Knee |ippoh godaoh |zirinupphuá |yon-ah |loyeretto | | | |yerito Knuckles | | | |nouaviro
Lake |kuruga |üppiah | | Large |kuri |hih haï | |andavuete Laugh |noguari |ahpukkàh | |noshontatchu Leaf | | | |kahrashi Lean | | | |tonghnizi Leg | |zirito mahk |oira-oh |noh pori " (1st pers.) |ippogora |khana | | " (2nd " ) |appogora | | | " (3rd " ) |pogora | | | Let us go | | | |fame ate Light |djorugo |uhüga | |(lamp) purika Light a fire |djaro guddo |tahttàh induh | | (to) |djoruggo | | | Lightning |baigahbe |tupan veravah | |pureka | |tupasseo | | Lip (lower) | | | |nohtchare " (upper) | | | |nohpanti Lips | | | |tchara Little | | | |capichenni Lose (to) |okkua |ohkkagnüh | | Love |aiddu |ahmán oron | |nohnindatzimbi Lunacy | |heh wuhruh | |
Man |mehddo |ahzibah |aniocat |shambari (plural) |ihme | | | (old) | | |iabut | Milky way |cujedje doghe |aniang puku |kabieureh | |ehro guddo |zahwara | tpuih | Monkey | | |taueh |oshetto Moon |ahri |zahir | |kahshi " (during a) | | |kachi | Morning | | |kabi ason |kittaittidih Mosquito | | |caame | Mother | |zihuba |anhih |nanná " my |ihmuga (1st p.) | | | " thy |atche (2nd p.) | | | " his |utche (3rd p.) | | | " |tchedge | | | | (general) | | | " our |padge (1st | | | | pers. plural) | | | " yours |tadge (2nd p.) | | | " theirs |ettudge (3rd) | | | Mountain | |iuitir |otioah |chahtoshi Mountains |toreakkari |ühwüttura | | " (range of) |toreakkari | " | | | doghe | | | Moustache | | | |noshpatonna Mouth | | |ueibi |nottaramash Mule | | | |manno mari
Nails (of | | |ueimba rahn |nosha takki fingers) | | | |tchamoro Neck | | | | " (front of) |iruho |zisuhra | | " (1st pers.) | | | | " (2nd p" ) |aruho | | | " (3rd " ) |ruho | | | " (back of) | |zikupeah | | " (1st pers.) |ikiddoro | | | " (2nd " ) |akkiddoro | | | " (3rd " ) |ittoro | | | Necklace | | | |nighitzki Night |batchioji |kaáhrúh |atchiman | | |puitun ahiueh | | No |boro, carega |napohttahri |cahmah | |boekkimo | | | |kah (suffix) | | | |bokkua | | | Nose | |zissignah | |nokkirimash " (1st pers.) |ikkenno | | | " (2nd " ) |akkenno | | | " (3rd " ) |kenno | | |
Oar | | | |kumarontzu Old | | | |kinkiuari Onça (jaguar) | | |huira | One | | |pan |
Parrot | | |aruh | Perspire (to) |caroh |zihruhaï | |nama savitache Pig | | | |pihratz Pottery (for | |tahpe quazzihar | | cooking) | | | | Pot (large) |ariya | | | " (small) |ruobo |gnaéh peppóh | | " (very small)|pohri | | | " " " |pohri (gabo) | | | " " " |pohrero | | | Present |makkakai |ahmbehunteheh | |
Rain |buh buttu |ahmanna |monbaht |ngagni |(boe) buttu |aman | | Rainbow | | | |ohyié Rapid (cataract)| |ituihi | | Receive |makkinai |ahmbohul | | |(I received) | | | Red | | |patpecat |kitchongahri Reward |mohri | | | Rise (to) |racodje |ehppóhan | | River |poba |parana | |gnah " (large) |poba kurireo |parana hun | | " (small) |pahga |parana hin | | Rock |tori |ittahih(n) | | " (large) |tori kurireo |ittahuh(n) | | Rocks | | | |mappih Run |reh |oh gnama | |preteten | | | | spayieni " (to) | | | |noshatchah Run away (to) |arekoddo |zihppohséh | |
Sad |kierigoddo |ahnimombü áh | | Salt | | |caotah | Same | | | |fecatche cuanta | | | | nana Scratch |kiggori |ogni oï | | Sea | | | |(unknown) Search (to) |wogai |éhekkahr | | See (to) | | | |nogna akuripi Shame |poguruh |ah(g)ni nossïn | | Shin |iraetta | | | Shiver |magoddo |zihrahúh | | Shooting stars |aroi koddo |zahir ta tai wai | | Sight |aiyuoh |ueppiáh pottahr | | |djohruddoh | | | Silver | | | |kiriekki Sing | |amaracaib | | Sing (to) |roya, |mahrakkahi |huamame | |arage | | | " (and dance) | | | |nowishtiaccia Sister | |garikie |etchih |tchogue | |zihreüsa | | Sister | | | | " (1st pers.)|ittuiyeh | | | " (2nd " )|attuiyeh | | | " (3rd " )|uttuhiyeh | | | " (general) |tchedduiyeh | | | " (1st p. p.) |pahduiyeh | | | " (2nd " )|tahduiyeh | | | " (3rd " )|ettuhduiyeh | | | " (younger) | |zihkuppuhera | | Sit (to) |mogudda |oh ahppúh | |nosseiki Sky |baru |üvahga |kabi | | |ivagh | | Sleep | | | |ahmayaweh Sleep (to) |nuddoh |okkiéht | | Small |biagattigé |suhhin | |entzit |biagareu | | |gliagnini |pikkiriri rogo | | |japchoquin Smell (sense of)|ikkenomeruddo |uéttóhn | | | (nose hears) | | | Smoke |djereddudde |tahttahssin | | " (to) |coguatta medji |ohppeh tambúh | | | (eat smoke) | | | Snake | | |puibui | " (large) | | |pushiribeh | Son | | |ipot |nientzteh | | | |nochumi Speak | | | |nona guayte Speak (to) |battaru |ogni éh | |nugniáni Spit | | | |notchôrah Star |cujedje |zahir ta tai |kasupta | Stars |cujedje doghe | | |bogro Steel | | | |coshintzi Stone | | |itai | Streamlet | | | |gnahtinka Strong | | | |niroite katzuini Strong sun | | | |minchare pahua Sun |mehri |ahra |huatchi |pah hua | |cuaracu | | Sunrise |mehri rutto |ahra nikki uh | | | | appoha | | Sunset |mehri re rotto |ahra nikki hoh | | | " butto | | | Swim |kuhru |oh üttapp | |nahmatatzu
Tail (of an |oh |behruaza | | animal) | | | | Tall |kuritchiga |ih zuh hàh | |iriritheh |aritchodo | | | Tattoo | |zihzuppohra | | | |(on chin) | | | |zihra pegnana | | | |(on forehead | | | |and eyebrows) | | Teeth | |ziragna |erahi |naikki " (1st pers.) |ittah | | | " (2nd " ) |akkoh | | | " (3rd " ) |oh | | | Ten | | |ohehssuat | Thank you |unknown |to all | | Then |tohare | | | Thigh |immomonna |zihuwa | | |ippohgahdde | | | Thin |rakkiggiarogogo |ah sihnnin | | Thirst | | |bipehrehp | Three | | |tchibapehng | Throat | | |huenie | | | | combira | Throw (to) |barigo |ahmenbott | | Thumb | | | |notta pakki Thunder |boejaruru |tupah | |takkirisse | |aman tsiuic | | Tired | | |yahboroeh |nomautache | | | |(I am tired) Toes |bure bahppe |zihppuhán | |noetzi tapaki Tongue | | | |nonnenni Tortoise | | |kanianiareh | Touch |kerajettudji |ahmahppuh | | Tree |ippo |üba |eïp | " (trunk of) |ippo |üba poh | |uhtchattu " (branch of) |ippo ittura |übakkan | | Trees | | | |chatto Trumpet | |niumbiháh | | Two | | |tchepitchepe|
Ugly | | |guereh | Umbilicus | | | |nohmoetto Uncle | |tzi | |natchalene
Village | |amonabuh | | Vomit (to) |towari goddo |zirivipposüh | |nokkamarangatzu
Wait (to) |to gudduguddu |eh ohnroh | | | giao | | | Wake (to) |yettado |ehmma èh | | Walk |mehru |oh attáh | |atteh otzki Warm |boero |hakkuh | | Water |poba |üha |iribbi |gnah Waterfall |pobbore |üttuh (fall) | |opparengnahtazzi | |ühppohsuh | | | | (rapid) | | Way | | | |aboche Weak | | | |teshintztéh West, East, | | | | North, South | |(unknown to all) | What is this in |Inno ba boi |gar te zih | | the ... |yiere? |méhrennoih? | | language? | | | | White | | |iretiat |kittamorori Wife |ohredduje |kuhnia |otachi |nuena Wife (plural) | | | | " (1st pers.)|tchevireh | | | " (2nd " .)|pavireh | | | " (3rd " .)|ettuvireh | | | |tcheddoreddo | | | |(abbrev. of) | | | |tcheddoredduje | | | Wild beasts |bahregghe |zahwahra | | Wind | |iuituh |kabihru |tampeah Woman |ahreddo |ahvah |tanian |coya (plural) |ahréhme | |aiatiah |
Yellow | | | |tchengotz Yes |uh |apohttáh |ibeheh | Yuka (jute) | | | |cagniri
INDEX
Acre territory, i, 3; ii, 403, 408 Aguachini River, ii, 440 Albuquerque, Mr., ii, 276, 361-369 Alcobaça, Port of, i, 110 Amazon, main estuary of the, ii, 387 Amazon River, ii, 385-391, 394-404, 416-418 Amazon State, Governor of, ii, 405-406, 414 Amazon, State of, i, 3 Amazonas, launch, ii, 411 Andes, journey across the, ii, 438-476 Antofogasta, ii, 472, 473, 474, 475 Ants, ii, 325 Apiacar Indians, ii, 266, 278 Apiacars, Vocabulary of language (Appendix), 486-496 Arabiranga I., ii, 390 Araguary, i, 51-61 Araguaya River, i, 109, 115, 119, 159, 168 Araguaya River, sources of the, i, 167 Araujo, Mr. J. G., ii, 408 Arequipa, ii, 460 Arinos River, the, i, 431; ii, 1-150 Arinos River, birthplace of the, i, 413 Arinos River, meeting-place with the Juruena River, ii, 149-151 Arinos-Juruena, ii, 151-263 Ariranha (Lutra Brasiliensis), ii, 21, 26, 33, 58, 78, 88, 93, 159, 165 Arrival in England, ii, 476 Associação Commercial do Amazonas, ii, 408 Atahualpa, S.S., ii, 416 Atrocities, ii, 266 August Falls, ii, 196-206 Azupizu River, ii, 437, 440
Bandeiras, the, i, 17 Barretto, José Sotero, ii, 266, 269, 271, 273 Batataes, i, 44 Bay of Coralhina, ii, 389 Bay of Guajara, ii, 390 Bay of Jappelin, ii, 390 Bay of Marajo, ii, 389 Bees, i, 392; ii, 72, 123, 321 Belem (Pará), ii, 390, 392 Bella Vista, ii, 380 Beluchistan, ii, 460 Beri-beri, ii, 393, 457 Bernardelli, Prof., i, 10 Bertino Miranda Island, ii, 262 Bilans, ii, 434 Birds of Brazil (Appendix), 481 Bolivia, ii, 471-474 Bolivian Railways, ii, 473 Booth Steamship Line, ii, 394, 410, 416, 417, 419 Borax, ii, 475 Bororo Indians, their origin, customs, manners, legends, anthropometric measurements, language, superstitions, music, etc., i, 207-263 Bororos, Vocabulary of language (Appendix), 486-496 Boundaries, i, 115, 116, 159; ii, 417 Boundaries, Matto-Grosso and Pará, ii, 268 Boundaries, Minas Geraes and Goyaz, ii, 60, 62 Boundary between Bolivia and Chili, ii, 474 Brazil, area of, i, 3 Brazil, wealth of, i, 4 Brazil, Col. R. E., "King of the Tapajoz," ii, 368, 373-381 Bueno de Silva, Bartholomeu, i, 105 Buenos Ayres, ii, 475-476 Butterflies, i, 94; ii, 55, 72
Cacti, i, 155 Cahombanas, ii, 435, 436 Cahombanas, trails from, ii, 435 Cairns, ii, 464 Caju or Acaju, i, 158; ii, 335 Caldas de Goyaz, i, 76 Campas or Antis Indians, ii, 434, 444 Campas or Antis Indians, Vocabulary of language (Appendix), 486-496 Campinas, i, 91 Cañon, a, i, 295, 358 Canuma River, ii, 412 Carnival, ii, 472 Carrapatinhos, i, 136, 188, 342, 392 Carrapatos, i, 138, 188, 334, 342 Carts, i, 69 Cashibos (Carapaches and Callisecas), ii, 432, 434 Cassicus icterronatus (Jappelin), ii, 396 Castanha do Pará, ii, 370 Cathartes (Urubu), ii, 59 Cattle breeding, i, 22, 106 Cayapo Indians, ii, 13 Cepa d'agua, i, 397 Cervus elaphus (Veado), i, 184, 269, 316 Church Rock, i, 382 Ciancias, ii, 431 Cocoa, ii, 400 Coffee, i, 26-37 Coffee, estates, i, 26 Coffee, export, i, 21 Colbacchini, Father A., i, 281 Collings Bros., ii, 403 Concepção (on the Araguaya), i, 110, 115 Concepção Island, ii, 390 Condamano, ii, 427 Corumbá River, i, 70 Corumbahyba, i, 68 Crax pinima (mutum), ii, 284, 288 Credentials, the use of, i, 118 Cretins, i, 360 Crocodiles, ii, 132 Crypturus notivagus (jaho), ii, 284, 292 Cuñer, J. J. V., Prefect of Cuzco, ii, 466 Cutijuba Island, ii, 390 Cuvettes, i, 312, 313, 318, 321, 327, 330, 347, 369, 378, 380, 412, 417, 430 Cuyaba River, i, 19 Cuzco, ii, 464 Cuzco Railway, ii, 458-464
De Rio Branco, Baron, i, 7 Diamantino, i, 410, 419-428 Diamantino, prices of commodities in, i, 420 Diamonds, i, 149, 420 Distance between Araguary and Goyaz, i, 101 Distance between Iquitos and Lima, ii, 456 Distance between Manaos and Iquitos, ii, 419 Distance from the River Araguaya to Capim Branco, i, 343 Distance from the River Arinos to Araguary, i, 432 Distance from Araguary to Serra Azul, i, 410 Distance from Goyaz City to Serra Azul, i, 410 Dogs, ii, 130 Dumont Estate, i, 36 Dumont Railway, i, 37
Effects of food after long period of starvation, ii, 346 Effects of starvation on the brain, ii, 311, 316, 324, 326, 329, 331 Electric spring of water, i, 284 Elevation of the Araguaya, i, 169 End of transcontinental journey, ii, 457 Esploradora, the launch, ii, 430, 437 Eunictes murinus (Sucuriú), ii, 162 Expedition, outfit of, i, 13
Farquhar, Percival, ii, 403 Fish, i, 153, 168; ii, 63, 90, 96, 104, 107, 126, 158, 223, 387, 484 Flora, i, 4, 62, 75, 82, 85, 89, 99, 139, 143, 152, 155, 158, 164, 172, 175, 275, 311, 330, 332, 347, 348, 355, 380, 389, 396, 397, 406, 416, 417, 430; ii, 4, 10, 24, 25, 37, 49, 52, 54, 58, 63, 94, 95, 105, 108, 134, 207, 224, 227, 336, 370, 388, 398, 430, 432, 437, 477-480 Fonseca, Marechal Hermes da, i, 107 Forest, i, 5, 12 Forest, across the virgin, ii, 278-365 Forest, the Brazilian, ii, 67-69 Forest fire, i, 385 Fossils, the discovery of giant, i, 371-376 Fossils, loss of, ii, 270 Franca, i, 45 Frontin, Dr. Paulo, i, 8, 16 Furnas Corros Mountains, i, 206
Garibaldi's grandson, ii, 450 Gavião caboclo, i, 412 Geological formation, i, 176, 182, 186, 187, 190, 194, 200, 204, 205, 267, 271, 273, 276, 278, 282, 287, 292, 301, 319, 322, 332, 334, 336, 349, 356, 363, 364, 368, 370, 380, 382-385, 393, 400, 407, 418; ii, 99, 142, 155, 168, 262, 384, 455 Goyaz, i, 19 Goyaz, city of, i, 100-131 Goyaz, Government of, i, 108 Goyaz, railway line in construction, i, 59, 61 Goyaz, State of, i, 3 Guajara Merim, ii, 403 Guanabara, Alcindo, i, 7; ii, 124
Hammocks, ii, 87 Harvard Observatory, ii, 460 History of the wars in the kingdom of Brazil between Holland and Portugal, i, 414 Honesty of Peruvians, ii, 444, 452 Horses of Goyaz, i, 106 Huacapistana, ii, 452 Hydrochærus Capibara (Capivara), ii, 49, 56, 124
Igorrotes of Luzon Island, ii, 456 Ilex Paraguayensis (Mate), ii, 59, 81 Inca implements, ii, 470 Inca matrimonial stone, ii, 469 Inca ornaments, ii, 470 Inca pottery, ii, 469 Inca skulls, ii, 468 Inca throne, ii, 467 Inca weapons, etc., ii, 470 Incas, the, ii, 441, 466-471 Incas, architecture of the, ii, 466 Incas, civilization of the, ii, 466-471 Indians, i, 12, 17, 105, 185, 205, 207-263, 282, 338, 353; ii, 13, 70, 134, 158, 274, 423, 424, 430, 432, 434 Insanity, i, 124 Iquitos, ii, 418 Islands of the Arinos and Arinos-Juruena Rivers--vol. ii.-- Ada I., ii, 120 Alastor I., ii, 65 Alberto Masõ I., ii, 171 Albert Rex I., ii, 110 Angela I., ii, 159 Anna I., ii, 121 Antonio Prado I., ii, 126, 128 Arabella I., ii, 140 Araujo I., ii, 263 Ariadne I., ii, 222 Armida I., ii, 98 Aspasia I., ii, 149 Babin I., ii, 186 Barretos I., ii, 126 Belinda I., ii, 184 Bertha I., ii, 141 Bomfin I., ii, 176 Bridget I., ii, 39 Camilla I., ii, 107 Carmela I., ii, 156 Caterina I., ii, 157 Clara I., ii, 161 Corona I., ii, 122 Daphne I., ii, 126 Diana I., ii, 141, 168 Dora I., ii, 115 Edna I., ii, 115 Eileen I., ii, 141 Eleonora I., ii, 52 Elfrida Landor I., ii, 152 Elizabeth Chimay I., ii, 97 Elizabeth R. I., ii, 62, 111 Eloisa I., ii, 110 Emma I., ii, 117 Erminie I., ii, 121 Eva I., ii, 109 Evelina I., ii, 141 Faith, Hope and Charity Is., 98 Francesco I., ii, 152 Gabriella I., ii, 93 George Rex I., ii, 158, 160 Gemma I., ii, 71 Germaine I., ii, 111 Gingillo I., ii, 142 Giselle I., ii, 171 Helena I., ii, 66 Hilda I., ii, 156 Hugo I., ii, 120 James Dewar I., ii, 172 Jessica I., ii, 176 Josephine Island, 122 Julia I., ii, 70 Jupiter I., ii, 126 Kuvera I., ii, 172 Landor, Charles, I., ii, 96 Laurita I., ii, 116 Leander I., ii, 263 Leda I., ii, 175, 263 Lilian I., ii, 118 Loel I., ii, 80 Lucia I., ii, 115 Lucky I., ii, 39, 43 Lunghissima I., ii, 155 Lydia I., ii, 61 Mabel I., ii, 112 Magda I., ii, 109 Margie I., ii, 112 Maria I., ii, 106 Mars I., ii, 126 Martia I., ii, 107 Maude I., ii, 93 Maude Adams I., ii, 169 May I., ii, 110 Medea I., ii, 175 Melusine I., ii, 170 Meraud I., ii, 80 Midas I., ii, 171 Minerva I., ii, 169 Miranda I., ii, 171 Mosquito I., ii, 46 Nair I., ii, 105 Negrino I., ii, 63 Nina I., ii, 114 Noailles I., ii, 112 Nora I., ii, 120 Normand I., ii, 173 Olivia I., ii, 133, 161 Oriana I., ii, 168 Orlando I., ii, 97 Pandora I., ii, 134 Passos I., ii, 47 Passos Junior I., ii, 47 Paulina I., ii, 161 Pelleas and Melisande Is., ii, 162 Pericles I., ii, 149 Philomela I., ii, 160 Pomona I., ii, 168 Portia I., ii, 160 Priscilla I., ii, 125 Providence I., ii, 114 Psyche I., ii, 160 Queen Mary I., ii, 171 Rebecca I., ii, 103 Rhea I., ii, 160 Rita I., ii, 110 Rock I., ii, 105 Rodriguez, J. Carlos I., ii, 117 Romeo and Juliet Is., ii, 115 Romola I., ii, 156 Rosalinda I., ii, 160 Rose I., ii, 109 Sarah I., ii, 102 Schnoor, Luiz, I., ii, 95 Seven Sisters Is., ii, 153 Sibyl I., ii, 134 Sophia I., ii, 142 Stella I., ii, 156 Susan I., ii, 118 Sylvia I., ii, 124 Tanis I., ii, 60 Teffe I., ii, 108 Teresa I., ii, 125 Three Graces Is., ii, 113 Toledo, Pedro de, I., ii, 44 Tristan and Isolde Is., ii, 161 Two Sisters Is., 46 Una I., ii, 157 Urania I., ii, 157 Vanessa I., ii, 160 Vera I., ii, 93 Victor Emmanuel I., ii, 74 Yolanda I., ii, 156 Itaituba, ii, 380 Itaquatiara, ii, 402, 412
Jacutinga, ii, 48 Jaguar, the, i, 184, 307, 316; ii, 315 Jararakinha I., ii, 390 Javari River, ii, 417 Jeckill, Mrs., ii, 404 Jesuits, i, 414 Jews, ii, 258, 262 Jiggers, ii, 338 Jornal do Commercio, i, 7 Juliaca junction, ii, 462 Junction of the Arinos-Juruena and Tres Barras or S. Manoel River, ii, 263 Juruena River, ii, 149 Juruena River, meeting-place of with the Arinos River, ii, 149-151
Krause, Dr., i, 121
La Merced, ii, 450 La Paz, ii, 472 Lage, Mr., ii, 380 Lagoa dos Veados, i, 413, 415 Lagoa Formosa, i, 96, 328 Land, value of, i, 38, 43, 45, 49 Las Palmas River, ii, 449 Legislative Congress of Goyaz (State), i, 112 Leguia, Dr. B. B., President of Peru, ii, 465 Leopoldina, i, 110 Leprosy, i, 87 Leticia, ii, 418 Lighthouses, ii, 388 Lima, ii, 456, 458 Llamas, ii, 453, 456, 461, 463, 473 Lovelace, Dr. Carl, ii, 404 Lua Nova, ii, 376 Lunar halo, i, 199, 328, 333
Macaws, i, 308; ii, 132, 396, 398 Macedo, Commandante, ii, 380-391 Macrocerus hyacinthinus (araruna), ii, 396 Madeira-Mamore Railway, ii, 402-404 Madeira River, ii, 277, 347, 411-414 Magalhães, Couto de, i, 109 Malampaya Sound, i, 9 Malan, Father A., i, 309 Mammals of Brazil (Appendix), 480 Manaos, ii, 402, 405-411 Manaos, Commandants of the Federal Troops in, ii, 409, 414, 416 Manaos, Improvements, Limited, ii, 410 Mangabeira, the, i, 406 Mangabel, ii, 374-377 Manobos, ii, 434 Maps, i, 116, 414 Maps, inaccurate, i, 404 Maribondos (hornets), ii, 194 Masisea, ii, 430 Masõ, Dr. Alberto, ii, 408, 416 Matto Grosso (State of), i, 3 May, Jeckill & Randolph, Messrs., ii, 403-404 Maya Indians of Yucatan, ii, 254 Mazagan, i, 70 Medicinal plants, i, 152 (Appendix), 477-480 Minas Geraes, Province of, i, 3 Minerals, i, 4 Minister of Marine, ii, 407 Mirage, ii, 473 Miranda, Dr. Bertino, ii, 408 Miriatiriami, ii, 440 Mitchell, Mr., English Consul at Iquitos, ii, 419 Mockill, Mr., Chief of Peruvian Corporation, ii, 458, 464 Mogyana Railway, i, 38-51 Mollendo, ii, 458 Monoliths, i, 363, 364 Mori Brothers, ii, 260 Mori, Don Eulogio, ii, 367 Morro da Meza, i, 59 Mountain sickness, ii, 461 Mules, i, 140, 389 Müller, Severiano, i, 7 Mundurucu Indians, ii, 248, 252, 369 Mundurucu Indians, vocabulary of the language (Appendix), 486-496
Nasua socialis (coati), i, 319; ii, 354 Nasua solitaria (coati), i, 319 Nazaratec River, ii, 437 Nery, Julio V., ii, 266, 275, 276, 280, 283 New York (Ucayalli), ii, 421 Nunes, Dom Pedro, ii, 343-348
Obidos, ii, 399 Oliveira, Regis de, i, 11 Ollagüe Volcano, ii, 474 Opisthocomus cristatus (cigana), ii, 132 Oroya, ii, 454 Oroya, railway, ii, 454-456 Oruro, ii, 472, 473, 474
Pachitea River, ii, 431-435 Pack-saddles, i, 78 Palms, i, 5 Pampas, ii, 445 Pará chestnut, ii, 207 Pará Fiscal Agency, ii, 268, 272 Pará Province of, i, 3 Paraguay River, birthplace of, i, 414 Paraguay River, sources of, i, 416 Parana River, i, 167 Parana River, birthplace of, i, 414 Paranahyba River, i, 60 Paredão Grande, the, i, 292 Paredãozinho, i, 287 Parintins, ii, 412 Passos, Dr. F. Pereira, i, 8 Pasture lands, i, 6 Paulista Railway, i, 24 Paulistas, the, i, 17, 105 Pedro II., Emperor, i, 100, 109, 134 Penelope cristata (jacú), ii, 26, 132, 237, 296, 354 Peruvian Corporation, ii, 458-471 Peruvian Railway, ii, 458-473 Philadelphia (Ucayalli), ii, 424 Photography, ii, 82 Pichis River, ii, 435-438 Pinto, Mr., ii, 368 Pium, i, 173, 300, 302 Podiceps Americanus (mergulhão commun), ii, 48 Polvora, the, i, 300 Pombas Island, ii, 369 Poopo, Lake, ii, 473-474 Port Bermudez, ii, 437 Port Guaqui, ii, 471 Porto do Castanho, i, 161 Porto Velho, ii, 1, 20, (Rio Madeira) 403 Potzuzu, ii, 435 Pouso Alto, i, 86 Prado, Antonio, i, 7, 22, 26 Praia da Rainha, i, 110 Preguya, the, ii, 432 Prices of commodities, ii, 259, 372, 410, 424 Prison of Goyaz, i, 123 Province of Loreto, Prefect of, ii, 420, 430, 437 Pueblo Pardo, ii, 449 Putumayo River, ii, 417
Raft made of demijohns, ii, 335-341 Railways, i, 111 Redemptionist Friars, i, 90, 92 Reptiles of Brazil (Appendix), 484 Requeña, ii, 422 Riberão Preto, i, 38 Rio Arinos, i, 413, 431; ii, 1-150 Rio Barreiros or das Garças, i, 195, 196, 206, 264, 265, 284 Rio Caitté, i, 416 Rio Canuma, ii, 269, 412 Rio Capim Branco, i, 335, 337, 346 Rio Chabo, i, 409 Rio Chanchamayo, ii, 449 Rio Claro, i, 149 Rio Corgo Fundo, i, 194 Rio Corisho, i, 416 Rio Crepore, ii, 374 Rio Cuyaba, i, 359, 402, 404, 405 Rio das Mortes, i, 116, 350 Rio dos Patos, ii, 39, 43 Rio Estivado, i, 416 Rio Euphrasia, ii, 268 Rio Grande, i, 46 Rio Jamanchin, ii, 378 Rio Jangada, i, 359 Rio Las Almas, i, 153 Rio Macucu, i, 417 Rio Madeira, ii, 127 Rio Manso, i, 387-389 Rio Misericordia, ii, 268 Rio Mollah, i, 416 Rio Montagna, ii, 377-378 Rio Paraguay (Paraná), i, 323 Rio Paraná, i, 349, 411, 415 Rio Pedra Grande, i, 366, 369 Rio Ponte Alto, i, 154 Rio Preto, i, 413 Rio Roncador, i, 364, 369 Rio S. Florencio, ii, 268 Rio S. Lourenço, i, 341, 349 Rio S. Lourenço, headwaters of, i, 323 Rio S. Manoel or Tres Barras, i, 403 Rio S. Thomé, ii, 268 Rio Secundury, ii, 269, 328, 333, 349, 351 Rio Sumidoro, ii, 53 Rio Tapajoz, ii, 269 Rio Tarma, ii, 452 Rio Trombetas, ii, 399 Rio Uruguatos, ii, 218 Rio Verde, i, 403 Rio Vermelho, i, 109, 133 Rio Xingu, i, 403; ii, 127 Rio Xingu, nearest point to Rio Tapajoz, ii, 379 Rio de Janeiro, i, 9 Rock carvings, i, 338 Rodadeiro or toboggan slide of the Incas, ii, 467 Rodriguez, José Carlos, i, 7 Rondon, Col., i, 12 Ross, Mr., ii, 391 "Round Table" of the Incas, the, ii, 467 Royal Mail Steamship Co., i, 9; ii, 476 Rubber, i, 36; ii, 4, 46, 48, 60, 63, 78, 91, 97, 267, 272, 369, 434 Rubber, coagulation of the latex, ii, 8 Rubber, collection of the latex, ii, 6 Rubber, collectors, i, 424; ii, 1
S. Antonio, i, 88 S. Benedicto, Mt., ii, 274, 367 S. Isabel (Castanho), ii, 373 S. Jeronimo, ii, 429 S. Luiz de Caceres, i, 419, 429 S. Luiz de Shuaro, ii, 449 S. Manoel, Collectoria of, ii, 264 S. Manoel, Tres Barras or Paranatinga River, ii, 263 S. Paulo, i, 16 S. Paulo, elevation of, i, 23 S. Paulo, State of, i, 20, 22 S. Ramon, ii, 451 Salesian Friars, i, 132, 264, 280, 284, 309 Salto Benjamin, i, 342 Salto Floriano Peixoto, i, 342 Sand-dunes, ii, 459 Santarem, ii, 385 Santarem to Belem (Pará), ii, 385-391 Sauba Ants (Oecodonia cephalotes), ii, 119, 315, 318-320 Schmidt, Col. (The Coffee King), i, 37 Schnoor, Luiz, i, 56 Seringueiros, or rubber collectors, the, i, 424; ii, 1, 22, 250, 258, 272, 273, 276, 361, 369, 371, 379, 411, 428 Serra Azul, the, i, 399-405, 411 Serra das Pedra, i, 405 Serra de Almerin, ii, 387 Serra de Callos, i, 70, 74 Serra de Pasco, ii, 435 Serra de Sta. Rita (or Dourada), i, 96 Serra do Sappé, i, 77 Serra do Tombador, i, 419, 429 Sete Lagõas, i, 413-415, 416 Sillistayni towers, ii, 471 Siphonia elastica (Hevea Brasiliensis), or rubber trees, i, 429; ii, 4, 60, 63, 78, 91, 97, 249 Slavery, i, 423; ii, 11, 19, 22, 40 Snakes, i, 93; ii, 162, 180 Snakes of Brazil (Appendix), 485 Solimões River, ii, 416-418, 421 Sorveira (milk trees), ii, 10, 105, 288 Stars, i, 179 Starvation, ii, 300-345 Sungaro Paro Mts., ii, 437
Tabatinga, ii, 418 Table of comparative anthropometric measurements, i, 261 Tamandua Bandeira, the, i, 307, 316 Tambos, ii, 438, 441, 443, 444, 446, 447, 448 Tapajoz River, ii, 367-385 Tapanhonas Indians, ii, 70 Tapiche River, ii, 423 Tapirus Americanus (Anta), i, 316; ii, 76, 345 Tarma, ii, 452 Taxipa I., ii, 390 Telepathy, ii, 363 Termites (Termes album), i, 155-8, 348, 431 Terra Blanca Lake, ii, 426 Thermal springs, i, 76 Titicaca Lake, ii, 471, 474 Tocantins River, i, 110 Toledo, Pedro de, i, 7, 12, 15 Trans-Andine Railway, ii, 475 Troglodytes fuscus, ii, 395 Tucano, the, i, 164 Tunnels, ii, 451, 452, 454
Uancabamba, ii, 435 Uberaba, i, 48 Uberabinha, i, 50 Ucayalli River, ii, 421-431 Urubu, i, 154 Useful Plants (Appendix), 477-480
Valparaiso, ii, 475 Vampire Indians, ii, 432 Vastres gigas (pirarucú), ii, 387 Venus, i, 296; ii, 128 Vocabularies of Indian languages--Apiacar, Bororo, Campas, Mundurucu (Appendix), 486-496
Water during long periods of starvation, ii, 309 Watersheds, i, 96, 349, 355, 414 Wellman's Balloon, ii, 425 Wild boar, i, 152 Wireless telegraphy, ii, 422, 437 Women of Goyaz, i, 128 Woods for construction (Appendix), 477-480 Woods, fibrous (Appendix), 477-480 Woods, lactiferous (Appendix), 477-480 Woods, oleaginous (Appendix), 477-480 Woods, resinous (Appendix), 477-480
Yanna Yakka River, ii, 425 Yessup, ii, 438 Yuta (jute), ii, 425
Printed by Hazell, Watson & Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury.
Transcriber's Notes:
1. This text contains diacritical marks and symbols, where possible these are represented in the text by the following symbols.
Diacritical mark above below -------------------------- ------ ------ macron (straight line) [=x] [x=] breve (u-shaped symbol) [)x] [x)] tilde [~x] [x~]
2. Printing/spelling errors which have been corrected are:
Volume 1: Page 43, "Butataes" changed to "Batataes" Page 44, "Batateas" changed to "Batataes" Page 58, "Schoor" changed to "Schnoor"
Volume 2: Page viii, "Solimo[~e]s" changed to "Solimões" Page 7, "0·25 c" changed to "0·25 m" Page 14, "Jurnena" changed to "Juruena" Page 316, "expect" changed to "except" Page 497, "Jappalin" changed to "Jappelin" Page 498, "Cepo" changed to "Cepa" "Cryptorus" changed to "Crypturus" Page 500, "Naïr" changed to "Nair" Page 501, "Mayu" changed to "Maya" Page 502, "Ollaguë" changed to "Ollagüe" "Reinha" changed to "Rainha" Page 503, "Crepury" changed to "Crepore" "Jamachin" changed to "Jamanchin" "Peixeto" changed to "Peixoto" Page 504, "Transandine" changed to "Trans-Andine" "Vastris" changed to "Vastres"